CHAPTER 1: ON KNOTS
Of Knots, it is necessary that l speak . . .
The sailor, from the very nature of his craft, has a dependence
upon rope and a consequent familiarity with knots that is demanded
of no other workman. It follows that most important knots owe both
their origin and their names to the requirements of a ship at sea. So
diverse are these requirements that the number of knots devised by
the sailor is probably ten times greater than the sum of all other
handicrafts combined. Nor is this surprising if we consider that on a
full-rigged ship, in everyday use, are several miles of rigging, and
an able seaman, of necessity, is acquainted with every inch of this
extent.
Knotting has been an important adjunct to the everyday life of all
people from the earliest days of which we have know ledge. There are
still primitive races who fasten their huts, traps, canoes, and harness
with knotted thongs and withes. But civilized man is no less de-
lendent on knots than his more backward brothers, even though
:nots today are much less in evidence in sophisticated surroundings.
Long ago man recognized the decorative possibilities of knots, and
“fancy knotting” is one of the oldest and most widely distributed of
the folk arts. But it remained for the sailor to seize upon this art and
to develop it into something that is peculiarly his own.
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
Aboard ship knotting had reached its flood early in the nineteenth
century, and by mid-century, with the commencement of the Clip-
f >cr Era, it had begun to ebb. Folk arts flourish best where there are
eisure and contentment, and neither of these conditions obtained on
clipper ships. After the American Civil War the economic situation
in the merchant marine was such that all ships were undermanned;
sailors had little or no time to spare from their labors, and knotting
was pushed into the background.
At the beginning of the nineteenth century it was unusual to find
in the forecastle of a sailing ship more than one or two sailors who
could read and write. It was a common thing for boys to go to sea
before they were ten years old, and cabin boys of seven and eight
years’ age were not unusual. Even ashore, at that time, education was
considered unnecessary in the classes from which seamen were re-
cruited. But the isolation of the sea was such that the sailor’s inability
to read and write was an almost intolerable hardship. In order to keep
his mind occupied when off duty, it was necessary for him to busy
his hands. Fortunately there was, aboard ship, one material that could
be used for that purpose. There was generally plenty of condemned
rope with which to tie knots.
A frugal owner would send his ship to sea with all the old running
rigging in place that would pass inspection. But any shipmaster
worthy of the name, once his ship was under way, began to reeve
off new rigging wherever a long-jawed piece of gear met his eye.
There were two arts that belonged to the sailor: scrimshaw, which
was the carving and engraving of whalebone and ivory and was
peculiar to the whaling fleet, and knotting, which belonged to all
deepwater ships, including whalers.
Jackknife industries also flourished aboard ship, and much of the
tattooing of the old days was done in the forecastle. Sailors knitted,
sewed, and crocheted; made baskets and straw hats. But the true shell-
back was more apt to specialize in knots.
Aboard coasters and fishermen knotting has never been so widely
practiced. There is a fundamental difference between the deepwater
and the coastwise sailor. The latter, in common with the fisherman,
spends much of his time ashore, making harbor at short intervals.
Usually he has a home and family ties of some sort. His excursions
on the sea are too brief, and his hours at sea too busy, to encourage
handicrafts. But the shellback, if he has a home, generally ignores it
when ashore so long as his health and thirst last. Most of the days of
his life are actually lived at sea.
The character of a sailor’s knotting depends to a great extent on
what branch of the service he is in. It would be impossible in the
Navy to hand out rope in sufficient quantity for the large crews that
are carried. Generally the men have to be content with log line, fish-
line, and such small stuff. This has resulted in the Navy’s seamen spe-
cializing in “square knotting” or “macrame.”
ON KNOTS
Merchant sailors have been better provided. Although they seldom
obtain new material to work with, junk is generally issued, which
they “work up” into foxes, nettles, and twice-laid rope.
It was the whaleman who fared best; his voyages were longer and
less broken, and his ship was heavily overmanned. New whale Hne
was frequently allowed, that had been broken in the whale hunt. This
was the best quality rope that was manufactured, and could be
worked up into any size material required. But to balance against
these favorable conditions was the divided interest of the whaleman.
Unless he possessed a special gift for knots he was apt to succumb
to the lure of scrimshaw.
The interest of seamen in their knots was widespread and intense,
and often decidedly competitive. Complicated knots were explained
under pledge of secrecy; often a knowledge of one knot was bar-
tered for another. I have heard of a sailor who carried an unfinished
blackjack in his ditty bag for several voyages until at last he found
a shipmate who could teach him the knot he wished to finish off
with. A sailor was judged by his chest beckets and his bag lanyards.
A superlative knot tier, in the middle of the nineteenth century, stood
in the estimation of the forecastle about where the Artist of the
Cavern Walls stood in the Cro-Magnon days.
Very little nationalism is evident among knots. One reason for this
may be that the merchant sailor has never been too particular about
what flag he sailed under, and in the general shifting about, knots soon
became common property. Here and there we have a “Spanish,”
“Portuguese,” “English,” “French,” or “American” Knot, but
seldom is the application of such a name at all universal. The same
knot may be attributed to several countries, just as Flat “Over-One-
and-Under-One” Sinnet (#2976) is called by English-speaking
sailors “French Sinnet” and by the ever-polite French “Tresse
Anglaise.”
It is impossible to make a distinction between the British and the
American contribution to knots. There were English sailors in every
Yankee forecastle. But it would seem that English-speaking people
as a whole have made the largest single contribution to the subject.
At the present time Scandinavian sailors are doing more toward
preserving the traditions of marlingspike seamanship than any other
seamen.
In the pages that are to follow, in order to save continual jump-
ing between the past and present tenses, I shall speak in general as if
square-rigged ships still sail the seas, as if Water Street and Front
Street in every seaport town still teem with sailors. I for one wish
that this were so, and it is no part of my task either to scrap the one
or to bury the other. But it may well be that the assumption is not
altogether too farfetched; for old customs die slowly; there are still
a few square-riggers sailing out of Australia and South America.
Rope standing rigging is still standard for small boats in the tropics,
and on three quarters of the charted seas the internal-combustion
engine is still a rarity.
[3]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
In the middle 1800s the public of several nations became sailor-
conscious. Organizations for “uplift” were formed, sailors 1 reading
rooms and educational classes were established along the waterfronts*
By this time the public- or common-school movement in America
was well under way, so, unless a boy ran off to sea at a very im-
mature age, the rudiments of the “three Rs” had begun to seep in.
“Sailors’ Aid” societies in various ports placed compact little
libraries aboard outbound ships. Voyages in the meanwhile had short-
ened. Ships were built more for speed and less for capacity; itinerant
trading ventures had become infrequent. The best routes for mak-
ing the long runs around the Horn and the Cape had been charted,
and, except for the whaler, the day of the long voyage was past.
Usually the advent of steam is held accountable for putting a
period to the art of knotting. But the fact that a sailor could not
read and at the same time employ his hands may be accepted as in
great part responsible. The higher education had taken its toll. To
be sure, the books put aboard ship frequently had a Rollo-like flavor,
more suited for juvenile Sunday-school classes than for the minds of
adult men. But hungry minds will accept anything, and the average
sailor was pretty young, and quite uncritical. Ship libraries were
thumbed to shreds, the subject matter of books was discussed, and
the comparative merits of heroes and the beauty of heroines argued
aboard ship with a seriousness, even a partisanship, that would put
to blush the efforts of many a Browning Society ashore.
But there were still men in the forecastle who preferred to work
with their hands even when there was plenty of reading matter,
which was not always the case.
A library of one hundred books was put aboard the bark Sunbeam
in 1904 by the New Bedford Port Society. This library had been re-
moved entire from the bark Morning Star on her return a few months
earlier from a two years 1 whaling voyage. In theory the proceeding
was sound, but in practice it presented flaws. Five of our crew were
condemned to sail an additional two years, four years in all, with the
selfsame one hundred books, all five men having just signed off from
the Morning Star . Although at first there was grumbling, knotting
and scrimshaw came to the rescue. Of the six men who started in at
once to knot and scrimshaw, four were of the Morning Star group.
It was inevitable that when the sailor learned to read he would
neglect the arts. Eventually good marlingspike sailors became scarce.
Only the essential everyday knots were taught to the greenhorns in
the forecastle, and work that formerly had been done at sea was
turned out in the rigging loft.
Abruptly, however, in the second quarter of the twentieth cen-
tury, knotting began to pick up again, and sailors the world over
evinced a renewed interest. To the casual observer this might have
seemed to be a fabricated or even a sentimental phenomenon. Yet
on turbine and Diesel ships, on gasoline boats and piano-wired yachts,
fancy knots were again in evidence.
Sailors once more compared and argued the relative beauties of
the Star, the Rose, and the Manrope Knot; in the dogwatches knots
were again a vital topic of conversation. The manifestation proved to
ON KNOTS
be no mere transient fad. Nor was it the result of sentiment or of
suasion. The answer was simple, and far deeper; the return to his
first love was natural and wholly unpremeditated. The sailor's hand
and eye, long slaves to magazine and book, were again free. The one
no longer turned the leaf while the other scanned the printed page.
Magazines and books were tossed aside unopened.
And now while the cheerful radio in the forecastle bleats out the
latest baseball and cricket scores, or prize-fight gossip, from five
hundred or two thousand miles away, the sailor’s hands again deftly
fashion a knotted belt or handbag for his lady, or for any one of
his several ladies, in whatever port his ship is headed for; and if he is
musically inclined he cheerfully whistles an obbligato to the radio
soloist of the moment, while his fingers once more ply the knotted
cords.
This I hold to be real progress; and the sailor today is a far happier
mortal than ever he was before. Something of course is missing, for
gone are the tall ships of yesterday, but somewhere in the offing
may be something else quite as beautiful.
Also, just beyond the horizon is the threat of the cinema and tele-
vision, which require only a little popularizing cheapness before they
too will invade the forecastle; when they do the sailor’s hands will
again be idle.
My earliest schooling in knots was received from two uncles, who
were whaling captains. One taught me the Reef Knot when I was
three years old, but a little sailboat model he promised to make
me, when I had learned my lesson, was never completed, for he
crossed the bar soon after. Years later my aunt gave me the model of
a whaleboat that he had made for her, and which had traveled as far
as the first Paris Exposition; and so the score was settled. My other
uncle taught me to shine t . He had agreed to make me a whiplash, but
as he proved dilatory, or so it seemed to a boy of my age, I secured
material and, with a little coaching, made the lash myself. When
I was seven my father gave me a pony on condition that I master the
Halter Hitch.
Before I had reached the age of nine I was proprietor and chief
canvasman of a two-ring circus that was widely, even if somewhat
conventionally, advertised as the “Greatest Show on Earth.” The
tent was made of carriage covers that had been more or less honorably
acquired, but the center poles had been pilfered from the clothesline.
Besides being canvasman I was also trapeze performer, bearded lady,
ticket seller, and ringmaster. It was in the first of my several capacities
that I required a knowledge of splicing and the use of the sailor’s
palm and needle. My uncle at this time being away at sea, I found a
teacher at the wharfside and cut out, seamed, and roped the tent
with the assistance of Daniel Mullins (now Captain Mullins) and
several other boys of the neighborhood. The circus presently took to
the road, but it went into winter quarters abruptly and disbanded be-
cause of a misunderstanding over a piece of borrowed costume which
the older generation deemed inappropriate for the street parade.
Eventually the tent was cut up into haycaps.
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
One day a dozen years later, in Wilmington, Delaware, the chief
contortionist of Bamum and Bailey’s Circus slapped me on the back
and hailed me so boisterously that the embarrassed young lady who
accompanied me made the error of attempting to continue her stroll
as if nothing unusual were happening. But by the time she finally
entered the big top, her circle of acquaintances had increased by
three and she proudly held a handful of photographs, inscribed and
autographed by the Contortionist , the Tattooed Man , and the Ex-
pansionist, . “Chippet,” the contortionist, was none other than the
ex-“Bender” of my own defunct-but-never-absorbed-or-amalgam-
ated circus, whom Barnum had succeeded in teaching to tie him-
self into a perfect Figure-of-Eight Knot. To this day I feel that
P.T. had crowded me a bit.
When I arrived at a proper age I went to sea and served my ap-
prenticeship in knots aboard the whaling bark Sunbeam. My chief in-
structor and the most quoted man in this volume was Captain Charles
W. Smith, then acting mate, who afterward became master of the
bark Lagoda , “the ship that never sailed” (the same being comfort-
ably housed inside the New Bedford Whaling Museum). Under Cap-
tain Smith’s tutorship I progressed rapidly in knots and marlingspike
seamanship to a point where even my teacher admitted that if I
persevered and retained my health I might someday hope to grasp
the rudiments of the art.
When I had learned all that he offered I repaid him rather shabbily
for all his kindness by slipping forward in the dogwatches and pick-
ing up, at the forecastle head, three knots with which he was un-
familiar.
From that day I have continued to collect knots wherever I could
find them, and as unfamiliar sailors’ knots became increasingly diffi-
cult to find I was attracted by the knots of other occupations. I
hobnobbed with butchers and steeple jacks, cobblers and truck
drivers, electric linesmen, Boy Scouts, and with elderly ladies who
knit. Mr. Ringling himself, I cannot recall now which of the several
brothers it was, took me about his circus and was pleased to be able
to dazzle me with a score of knots with which I was quite unfamiliar.
It was pleasant to talk to a brother showman again, and the meeting
was not one bit too soon, for almost overnight the interior of the
circus tent became a spiderweb of wire and tumbuckles instead of
hemp and blocks.
Will James, “the Lone Cowboy,” showed me the Theodore Knot
one day while we were lunching with Joseph Chapin, then the Art
Editor of Scribner's Magazine. In Boston I halted an operation to
see how the surgeon made fast his stitches. I have watched oxen
slung for the shoeing, I have helped throw pack lashings, I have fol-
lowed tree surgeons through their acrobatics and examined poachers’
traps and snares. But I never saw Houdini, never was present at a suc-
cessful lynching, and never participated in a commercial second-
story venture.
One spring soon after my whaling experience I spent several weeks
on an oysterman in Delaware Bay, having been commissioned by
Harper's Magazine to make a series of pictures of oyster culture.
(Several of these now hang in the Mariners’ Museum at Newport
ON KNOTS
News.) Over Sunday the fleet laid up at Bridgeton, New Jersey, and
on Monday morning it got under way and sailed down the Cohansey
Creek to dredge on the public beds off Ship John Light.
There was a fleet of perhaps two hundred sharpies, pungfys, bug-
eyes, canoes, schooners, and sloops, none with a motor, as the public
beds are not open to power dredging. In the exodus down the narrow
winding river the boats were crowded together as thick as a run of
herring. At any time it appeared possible to walk ashore merely by
stepping from rail to rail. But there was no fouling and no crowding;
and what little chat there was consisted of friendly hails. It was
just an average business day for the oystermen. Near the river’s
mouth a big bugeye overhauled us, and as she drew alongside
my eye rested on a huge knot at the end of the foresail halyard; it
was far bigger than the common Figure-Eight that is the universal
stopper for the ends of running rigging. As we dropped astern I
questioned the crew of the Mattie Flavel about the knot, which I
assumed was one peculiar to the oyster fleet since I had not seen its
like before. To my surprise no one aboard could identify it. So, as
I carried a definite impression of its appearance, I hunted up a length
of rope and in a little while evolved a duplicate, as I believed at the
time.
That was the origin of the knot which I have since termed the “Oys-
terman’s Stopper” (#526). A few days later, in Bivalve, the same
bugeye tied up near by. On going aboard I found that the glorified
Stopper Knot was nothing after all but an ordinary Figure-Eight
Knot tied in the very gouty end of a long- jawed halyard.
That was my first original venture in knotwork, although at the
time I had no idea the Oysterman’s Stopper was original, I supposed
that everything of so simple a nature had already been discovered.
In the spring of 1916, George H. Taber mailed me a paper which
he had received from a New Orleans correspondent, that purported
to be an exposition of why a symmetrical sinnet of triangular cross
section is impossible. The argument was unconvincing, and having
conceived a mental image of how such a thing might appear, in a
little while I held in hand a successful Equilateral Triangular Sin-
net of nine strands (#3028).
Then, when my attention was called to the fact that Matthew
Walker alone of all past knot tiers still holds the credit for his inven-
tion, I went to the trouble of patenting my sinnet.
From that day I have continued in my spare time, and also in time
that perhaps I should not have spared, to search for new things in
knots, in sinnets, and in splices. Occasionally I have set the subject
aside for a while, but always to pick it up again sooner or later.
Some of my friends did not hesitate to take me to task for what
they regarded as a flagrant waste of time. More than once I was
tempted to explain my prodigality as an individual’s protest against
the materialism of his age. But even if that had been true, which it
was not, it would hardly have been deemed a sufficient excuse.
Without doubt my critics would have been entirely satisfied if
I had announced that I proposed to write a book on the subject, for
the urge to write a book is nowadays accepted as ample excuse for
almost any delinquency.
[ 7 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
But I had given no thought at that time to writing a book of knots,
a fact which I have had occasion to regret many times since, for
my early notes were very fragmentary. However, I am not con-
vinced that an excuse is called for. Throughout history, from the
early peregrinations of Marco Polo and the first voyage of Chris-
topher Columbus down to more recent explorations in Antarctica
and the Himalayas, the thrill incident to the pursuit of untrodden
ways and the joy that attends occasional discovery have ever been
accounted sufficient reward in themselves for almost any human ef-
fort or sacrifice.
To me the simple act of tying a knot is an adventure in unlimited
space. A bit of string affords a dimensional latitude that is unique
among the entities. For an uncomplicated strand is a palpable object
that, for all practical purposes, possesses one dimension only. If we
move a single strand in a plane, interlacing it at will, actual objects
of beauty and of utility can result in what is practically two dimen-
sions; and if we choose to direct our strand out of this one plane,
another dimension is added which provides opportunity for an ex-
cursion that is limited only by the scope of our own imagery and
the length of the ropemaker’s coil.
What can be more wonderful than that?
But there always seems to be another car ahead in every likely
parking space. Here is a Mr. Klein who claims to have proved
{Math ematis che Annalen) that knots cannot exist in space of four
dimensions. This in itself is bad enough, but if someone else should
come forward to prove that heaven does not exist in three dimen-
sions, what future is there left for the confirmed knot tier?
The basis of this work is the assembled notes of forty years’ collec-
tion. My aim has been to write a comprehensive and orderly book on
applied knots and to make whatever information it contains easily
accessible.
Unless a knot serves a prescribed purpose, which may be either
practical or decorative, it does not belong here. Knots that cannot
hold their form when tied in tangible material are not shown, no
matter how decorative they may be. Many such decorative knots
appear in ancient architectural carvings, on early book covers, and in
illuminated manuscripts. Old tombstones often bear them. The early
Britons employed them in various heraldic devices. Many artists, in-
cluding Leonardo da Vinci, have drawn elaborate knot forms in their
decorations. These pictured and sculptured knots serve their pur-
poses admirably, but they are not within the scope of the present
work. A knot must have distinction of some sort to be included. Bad
as the Granny Knot is, it has borne a name, and been in use for many
years. With such, I do not feel at liberty to be arbitrary, no matter
how unimportant they may seem to be.
The purpose of a knot and the method of tying it are not less im-
portant than its name and aspect, the two features that are commonly
stressed. The question of what knot is best for a particular need is
perhaps the most important of all to be considered.
[ 8 ]
ON KNOTS
Often there is a certain way to make a knot that is either easy to
remember, easy to tie, or so economical of effort that it deserves to
be generally adopted. Usually this preferred way is the sailors', al-
though in the case of bends for small material the weaver has been
most prolific. Methods vary both with the vocation employing a knot
and with the size and texture of the material used.
1, 2. The Sheet Bend (#i) and the Weaver’s Knot (# 2 ) are
structurally identical but are tied by different methods and in differ-
ent materials, the former being tied in rope, the latter in thread or
yarn. A different way either of tying or of applying a form generally
constitutes a second knot.
Methods of tying will be demonstrated with progressive diagrams
in such manner that it is hoped they can be followed without re-
course to the text.
This, however, may not suit all readers, for there are some people
to whom diagrams are an annoyance. There are others to whom an
arrow or the printed letters A and B savor of higher mathematics.
On the other hand there are some who are irked by written or
printed directions of any sort. Sometimes, with the latter, it is possible
to have another person read aloud the directions. This alters the
situation for them, since they can follow oral directions with ease.
Apparently it is only the printed page that balks them.
But despite a few such individualists, no knot in my opinion is too
complicated to be clearly illustrated and adequately described; and
for any shortcoming in either direction an author should hold himself
responsible. I do not mean by this that all knots are simple. There
are some in the following pages that will tax the ingenuity and re-
quire the undivided attention of any adult expert, and there are
practices for which the hand must be disciplined, the eye held steady,
and the mind kept open and alert.
Several years ago, from my printed directions in the Sportsman
Magazine, and with no other assistance, my cousin, Hope Knowles,
tied without error Knot #2217, which has forty-nine crossings,
making therewith a covering for the knob of her father’s automobile
gear-shift lever. She was barely eleven years old at the time.
Previous to this demonstration I had considered writing two
books, one of an elementary nature for boys and girls, and another,
more advanced, for adults. But this decided me that one book was
enough, and that there are few knots that an intelligent boy or girl
of twelve or fourteen years, who is genuinely interested in the sub-
ject, cannot tie, provided the description is clear enough.
For several reasons drawings are used here for illustrations instead
of photographs, the most important reason of course being that since
I am an artist this is my usual method of expression. But drawings
also have certain definite advantages over photographs. There need
never be any doubt, in a drawing, as to which is the end of a rope
and which is the standing part. In the photograph of an actual knot,
the standing part appears cut off as well as the end, so that often the
two cannot be told apart.
[9]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
There need be no question in a drawing as to which strand is under
and which is over at any point. In a photograph this is frequently
obscured by shadow.
Anything may be omitted in a drawing that is not required, such
as the individual strands and yarns of a rope. These are of importance
in depicting Multi-Strand Knots but are superfluous and frequently
confusing in the illustration of Single-Strand Knots.
In order to save the reader the annoyance of turning over leaves
for reference, the text and the illustrations for each individual knot
appear on the same page or, in a few instances, on the opposite or
facing page. To make the two conform it has sometimes been neces-
sary to condense either the text or the illustrations more than could
be wished. It is hoped that this arbitrary pruning will not add appre-
ciably to the reader’s difficulties.
Knots that serve more than one purpose may be illustrated more
than once. Many such knots are to be found among the hitches ,
where one that may be made fast to a rail may also be applied to a
hook or ring. But even in such cases the methods of applying
vary, the ends often are differently led, or the ways of tying are
peculiar.
In Chapter 2, where the knots of each vocation or avocation are
grouped together, regardless of their variety, many are shown that
will reappear later in their regular classification. But here also the
apparent duplication is usually within the spirit of the definition, that
either a different form , a different 'way of tying , or a different use
constitutes a distinct knot .
There are a number of practices closely allied to knotting— bas-
ketry, weaving, straw-hat making, rugmaking, bandaging, fly-t
cat’s cradles, embroidery, tatting, netting, macrame or square knot-
ting, crochet, knitting; bead, quill, thong, sinew, cane, and hair work
—which consist in the main of a multiplicity of simple forms built up
into more or less elaborate patterns or designs. The basic knots of
these are shown, but the subject of design itself is too large to be
treated at length in any single volume.
A short list of books concerning these related subjects is given
near the end of this volume.
Perhaps the most difficult task I have attempted is to sort out the
terminology of knots and to ascribe to them their rightful names.
Preference has been given to the names that I have heard used, by
sailors at sea, and by sailors, sailmakers, and riggers ashore. These
have been compared with what could be gleaned from the best of
the old works on seamanship and rigging. From these sources I have
tried to sift the evidence and make a truthful record. I have refrained
from advancing opinions of my own, except where the evidence was
so slight, or the facts so obscured, that an opinion was ail that could
be offered. The date of a knot’s first publication is also given when
known.
It would seem that almost everybody has written about knots
except the sailor himself. The many authors of excellent treatises on
seamanship can hardly be regarded as exceptions to this statement,
since most of them, save R. H. Dana, Jr., and W. B. Whall, were navy
men, who presumably had no forecastle experience. They were offi-
cers, not sailors. Dana’s discussion of knots is excellent but brief.
[ 10]
ON KNOTS
Whall is equally brief, and he expresses doubt of the success of his
own effort. Unfortunately, a man is apt to forget in the cabin the
things he learned at the forecastle.
The earliest, and still the outstanding marine authority on knots,
is Darcy Lever, author of Sheet Anchor (London, 1808). Lever gave
nearly forty knots and splices, and many of these had not appeared
before in print. His plates and descriptions are clear and remarkably
free from error; his terms are convincing. Many of the illustrations
for his book have never been improved on, and most of them are still
being copied.
Since the forecastle provided the best possible school for the pro-
fessional seaman, no nautical authority ever considered it necessary
to devote a whole volume to knots. Chapters on the subject were
included in a number of early seamanship books, but these were
hidden away in a mass of other technical material and were not open
to the general reader. So it fell to the hands of a landsman first to
bring the subject before the public in printed form.
This earliest English volume to deal exclusively with knots has
been attributed to both Paul Rapsey Hodge and Frederick Chamier.
It was entitled The Book of Knots and was published in London in
1866 under the pseudonym “Tom Bowling”— a name with a nautical
smack well calculated to impress the sea-loving Britisher.
The original engravings, although clearly drawn, presented many
errors, and owing to the engraver’s process a number of the knots
were reversed— that is to say, “mirrored.” Being the first book in the
field, it was given a prominence far beyond its merit, which was
slight, and it is today by way of being considered a “source book.”
Much of the confusion that now exists in the terminology of knots
may be traced to this one “source.”
Presumably the material was abstracted from a French manuscript,
since most of the knot titles are literal translations of the common
French names. A total of only eight English sailor names for knots
is included , which is an amazing discrepancy. Even such common,
titles as Overhand, Figure-Eight, Half Hitch, Clove Hitch, Sheet
Bend, Wall, and Crown are lacking. The following parallel lists are
given to illustrate Bowling’s method of nomenclature.
Common English Names
3. Granny Knot
4. Overhand Knot
5. Bale Sling Hitch and Ring
Hitch
6. Sheepshank
7. Marlingspike Hitch
8. The Noose
9. Wall Knot
10. Wall and Crown
Bowling’s
Names
False Knot
Simple Knot
Lark’s Head
Dogshank
Boat Knot
Running Knot
Pig-Tail
Skull Pig-Tail
Common French
Names
Nceud de Faux
Nceud Simple
Tete d’Alouette
Jambe de Chien
Nceud de Galere
Nceud Coulant
Cul de Porc
Cul de Porc avec
Tete de Mort
11. The Clove Hitch is called: (1) “Watermans Knot,” (2) “simple
fastening in a rope,” (3) “Lark’s Head, Crossed,” and (4) “Builders’
Knot.” The name Clove Hitch itself does not appear at all, and the old
and reliable Fisherman’s Bend is called a Slip Knot!
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
I have never found a sailor who used or even knew one of Bowl-
ing’s titles, but I know of no current dictionary or encyclopedia that
has not adopted some of them. With the exception perhaps of “Skull
Pig-Tail,” all of those I have listed are to be found in various com-
mercial knot pamphlets, and in government, agricultural-school, and
college knot bulletins.
Sailors have an idiomatic language of their own which provides
about everything needed for a discussion of knots. A splice is put in ,
a hitch is made fast or taken , two ropes are bent together, a knot is
put in, made, or cast in a rope. A sailor takes a turn , he belays; he
claps on a stopper, he slacks away, and casts off a line. He clears a
tangle, he opens a jammed knot, and he works a Turk’s-Head or a
sinnet . But about the only time he actually ties is when, his voyage
over, he ties up to a wharf. The word tie is used so seldom by the
sailor only because it is too general a term for daily use, where some-
thing specific is almost always called for. But when a sailor refers to
the subject as a whole he always speaks of “ tying knots ” or “knot
tying.”
The word knot has three distinct meanings in common use. In
its broadest sense it applies to all complications in cordage, except
accidental ones, such as snarls and kinks, and complications adapted
for storage, such as coils, hanks, skeins, balls, etc.
In its second sense it does not include bends, hitches, splices, and
sinnet s , and in its third and narrowest sense the term applies only to
a knob tied in a rope to prevent unreeving, to provide a handhold, or
(in small material only) to prevent fraying.
At sea, the whole subject of knots is commonly divided into
four classifications: hitches , bends, knots, and splices'
12. A hitch makes a rope fast to another object.
13. A bend unites two rope ends.
14. 15. The term knot itself is applied particularly to knobs (14)
and loops (15), and to anything not included in the other three
classes, such as fancy and trick knots.
9
16. Long and Short Splices are Multi-Strand Bends.
17. Eye Splices are Multi-Strand Loops.
For the purposes of this discussion the word knot will be used in
its broadest meaning, as an inclusive term for the whole subject, and
the word knob will be used to designate a bunch tied in rope to pre-
vent unreeving.
18. 21. There are two kinds of Knob Knots: the Stopper Knot,
in which the end of a rope, after forming a knob, passes out of the
structure near the top; and
20, 23. The Button Knot, in which the end of a rope, after form-
ing a knob, passes out of the structure at the stem, parallel with the
standing part.
There are Single-Strand and Multi-Strand Knots of both these
kinds..
Furthermore, the Stopper Knot is subdivided into two classes:
18, 21. The Stopper Knot proper, which is a Terminal Knot;
and
19, 22. The Lanyard Knot, of similar construction, but tied in the
bight or central part of a rope.
There are four exceptions, among sailors’ knots, to the classifica-
tion that has been given.
ON KNOTS
24. The Fisherman’s Bend is an Anchor Hitch.
25, 26. The Studding-sail Halyard Bend (#25) and the Topsail
Halyard Bend (#26) are Yard Hitches.
The Roband Hitch is a Binding Knot (discussed in Chapter 12).
The verb to bend is used with considerable latitude: a sailor always
bends a line to an anchor or to a spar, and he also bends a sail to a spar
or stay. But with the exceptions here noted, all knots called bends
are for lengthening rope, by tying two ends together.
Many bends and hitches are termed knots, but this agrees with
the broadest definition of the term, knot being the generic term cov-
ering the whole subject.
For purposes of knotting, a rope is considered to consist of three
parts:
27. The end of a rope is its extremity.
28. The standing part is the inactive part, as opposed to the bight
and working end.
29. The bight of a rope is a term borrowed perhaps from topog-
raphy, which has two meanings in knotting. First, it may be any
central part of a rope, as distinct from the ends and standing part.
30. Second, it is a curve or arc in a rope no narrower than a semi-
circle. This corresponds to the topographical meaning of the word,
a bight being an indentation in a coast so wide that it way be sailed
out of, on one tack, in any wind.
31. An Open Loop is a curve in a rope narrower than a bight but
with separated ends.
32. A Closed Loop is one in which the
but not crossed.
When the legs of a loop are brought together and crossed the rope
has “ taken a turn?'
legs are brought together
33. A Loop Knot is formed when the end of a rope is made fast
to its own standing part, or when a loop in the bight of a rope is
closed and knotted. Often a Loop Knot is called merely a “Loop.”
34. When a vessel, lying to two anchors, turns about, under the
influence of wind and tide, she is said to have a foul hawse. If one
cable merely lies over the other it is called a cross (of the cables).
35. If another cross is added the result is an elbow in the cables.
36. Another cross makes a round turn.
37. While still another cross constitutes a round turn and an elbow
in the cable.
38. A hitch is a knot tied directly to or around an object; there are
many hitches that will capsize if removed from the supporting object.
39. A Loop Knot, commonly called a Loop, serves about the same
purpose as a hitch, but it is tied in hand, which is the chief distinction
between the two. After being tied it is placed around an object, such
as a hook or a post. Its shape is not dependent on the object that it is
fast to, and it may be removed at any time and will still retain its
shape.
40, 41, 42. Alongside will be found illustrated (#40) a single turn,
(#41) a round turn, and (#42) two round turns.
One of the few properties that would be desirable in every prac-
tical knot is that it should tie in an easily remembered way.
Decorative knots should be handsome and symmetrical.
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
There are some knots that are commonly confused with each other
because of some obvious similarity either of form or of name. Three
outstanding examples are the Noose, the Slip Knot, and the Slip
Noose.
43. The Noose is a sliding knot used in snaring birds and animals.
It draws up and constricts when the standing part is pulled.
44. The Slip Knot is a Stopper Knot that may be spilled or
slipped instantly by pulling on the end to withdraw a loop. There
is but one knot entitled to the name; any others having a similar
feature are merely “Slipped” Knots.
45. The Slip Noose starts as Noose #43, but a bight is employed
instead of an end for the final tuck. The knot may be spilled
(“slipped”) instantly, by pulling on the end, which withdraws the
bight.
I have never seen an explanation of the differences between the
Overhand Knot, the Half Knot, and the Half Hitch, three quite
distinct knots of somewhat similar construction, but with clearly
marked differences in their application. The three are often confused
with each other.
46. The Overhand is the simplest of the Single-Strand Stopper
Knots, and is tied with one end around its own standing part, its
purpose being to prevent unreeving.
47. The Half Knot is a Binding Knot, being the first movement
of the Reef or Square Knot. It is tied with two ends around an ob-
ject and is used when reefing, furling, and tying up parcels, shoe-
strings, and the like.
48. The Half Hitch is tied with one end of a rope which is passed
around an object and secured to its own standing part with a Single
Hitch.
The difference between the Clove Hitch and Two Half Hitches
is exceedingly vague in the minds of many, the reason being that the
two have the same knot form; but one is tied around another object,
the other around its own standing part. The illustrations of these
and several other knots, given here in two parallel columns, may per-
haps serve to make the differences clearer than a written description
can.
In every instance opposite hitches in the two columns have the
same knot form. But in the left column they are tied directly to an-
other object, while in the right column they are tied around their
own standing parts. The left column consists of snug hitches in
which the ends are secured under the turns. The right column con-
sists of loose hitches in which the ends, after passing around another
object, are made fast to their own standing parts.
49. Single Hitch
51. Slippery Hitch
53. Clove Hitch
56. Cow Hitch
59. Bale Sling Hitch, Ring
Hitch, or Tag Knot
61. Rolling Hitch, Magnus
Hitch, or Magner’s Hitch
50. Half Hitch
52. Slipped Half Hitch
54. Two Half Hitches
55. Buntline Hitch
57. Reversed Half Hitches
58. Lobster Buoy Hitch
60. Double Ring Hitch
62. Midshipman’s Hitch
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
Many experiments have been made with the object of determining
the relative strength of knots. But so far as I know the quality of
security has not been considered, or else has been regarded as one of
the properties inherent in, or covered by, the term “strength.” Yet
the two cannot be measured at the same time, and both are not pres-
ent in any two knots in the same degree. A secure knot often breaks;
a strong knot often slips.
The standard laboratory test of a knot has been to subject it to a
gradually increasing load. Eventually either the knot has slipped or
the material has tired and broken, which was usually at a point just
outside the knot.
In everyday service, however, rope is seldom subjected to just that
sort of wear.
In common use knots and rope generally break under a sudden
jerk, or a series of jerks, or else under a sudden access of load.
63. Several years ago the Collins and Aikman Corporation, manu-
facturers of piled fabrics, asked me to find a knot for them that would
not slip in the particularly coarse variety of mohair yarn required
in automobile upholstery coverings. If this yarn once broke it was
so “springy” that, with the knots then used, it untied over and over
again before it was finally woven into the cloth. The great number
of knots that had to be retied slowed down production seriouSly.
Eventually the problem was solved and the knot evolved was put
to use.
I started my experiments with the following premises for a point
of departure.
A. The security of a knot is determined by the stress it will endure
before it slips. To determine security a material is required that will
slip before it breaks.
B. The strength of a knot is determined by the stress it will endure
before it breaks. To determine strength a material is required that
will break before it slips.
Some especially made mohair yarn, of large size and even quality,
was provided, and I made myself some testing apparatus of material
secured from a local junk yard.
My test of security consisted of a series of uniform jerks applied
at an even rate of speed, using the drip of a faucet for a metronome.
A bag of sand provided a weight, and the jerks were continued until
they either amounted to one hundred in number or else the knot
spilled.
Only bends were tested. Ten bends of each kind were tied with the
ends trimmed to an even length. Only six knots failed to slip and only
one of these was a well-known knot. One knot slipped at the first jerk
each time it was tried, and other well-known knots gave unexpected
results. These will be found tabulated on page 2 73*
64, 65. During the course of these experiments another question
suggested itself, which was: what effect, if any, has the direction
of the lay or twist of rope on the security of a knot?
Right-laid rope and left-laid rope have opposite torsion. It was
found that the regular Right-Hand Sheet Bend (#66), tied in the
two different lays, slipped at about the same average rate, but the
variation of the number of jerks required was about twice as great
ON KNOTS
for the left-laid as for the right-laid rope, which suggests that the
latter is more reliable.
The Right Overhand Bend (#1410) showed a ratio of about two
to three in favor of right-laid rope. An inferior material was used for
these experiments, the excellent material of the earlier experiments
being exhausted, so the actual figures of the experiments axe not re-
liable.
To prevent slipping, a knot depends on friction, and to provide
friction there must be pressure of some sort. This pressure and the
place within the knot where it occurs is called the nip. The security
of a knot appears to depend solely on its nip. The so-called and oft-
quoted “principle of the knot,” that “no two parts which would
move in the same direction, if the rope were to slip, should lie along-
side of and touching each other,” plausible though it may appear,
does not seem important. Even if it were possible to make a knot
conform to any extent to these exacting conditions, it still would
not hold any better than another, unless it were well nipped.
66, 67 . An excellent example of this is the Sheet Bend. The Sheet
Bend (#66) violates the alleged “principle” at about every point
where it can, but it has a good nip and does not slip easily. The Left-
Hand Sheet Bend (#67) conforms to the so-called “principle” to a
remarkable extent, but has a poor nip and is unreliable.
It does not appear to make much difference just where the nip
within a knot occurs, so far as security is concerned. But the knot
trill be stronger if the nip is well within the structure.
68. In the ordinary strength test, under a gradually increasing load,
Dr. Cyrus Day found the Sheet Bend and the Left-Hand Sheet
Bend about equal.
I tested strength with a series of single jerks of gradually increasing
force.
A good quality of fish line was wound along a broadcloth-covered
cylinder of two inches diameter. The lower end was secured to a
weight, and the cylinder was placed horizontally near the ceiling of
my studio. Only bends were tested. The knots were halfway between
the cylinder and the weight, which were one foot apart at the begin-
ning of each experiment.
The weight was dropped at regular intervals, and after each drop
the cylinder was unwound one half turn, which lengthened the line
approximately three inches. The number of drops required to break
the line decided the knot’s relative strength.
The break in material almost invariably occurred at a point just
outside the entrance to the knot, which is usual in all tests.
A common statement that appears in many or most knot discus-
sions is that “a knot is weaker than the rope in which it is tied.” But
since a rope practically never breaks within a knot, this can hardly
be correct.
It appears to be true that a rope is weakest just outside the en-
trance to a knot, and this would seem to be due to the rigidity of the
knot. These experiments were not carried far enough to give con-
clusive results, but some of the results indicated were quite different
from what is generally accepted.
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
69. There is no such thing as a good general utility knot , although
ashore the Clove Hitch (#1177) comes very near to filling the
office of a general utility hitch. But at sea the Clove Hitch is em-
ployed almost solely as a Crossing Knot, for securing ratlines to
shrouds, etc.
70. Although not a very secure hitch, it can be quickly tied in a
great variety of easily remembered ways. It is the commonest of all
Post Hitches, and is often tied on a bag as a Binding Knot.
71. 72, 73. The purpose for which a knot is used and the way in
which it is tied, rather than its appearance , decide its classification.
This is clearly exemplified by three well-known knots of the same
identical form: (#71) Bowline, (#72) Sheet Bend, (#73) Becket
Hitch. The end of a rope is made fast to its own standing part to
form a Bowline (#71), which is a Loop Knot. The Sheet Bend
(#72), of the same form, bends two rope ends together, and the
Becket Hitch (#73), also of the same form, secures the end of a
rope to a becket, which is generally an eye or a hook.
74. One of the best but most misused of knots is the Reef or
Square Knot (#1204). Employed as a Binding Knot, to reef and
furl sails or to tie up parcels, it is invaluable.
75. But employed as a bend (to tie two rope ends together), the
Reef Knot is probably responsible for more deaths and injuries than
have been caused by the failure of all other knots combined .
76. In fact the ease with which it is capsized by jerking at one end
is its chief recommendation as a Reef Knot. Tied in two ropes’ ends
of different size, texture, or stiffness, it is almost bound to capsize and
spill.
77. 78, 79. A knot is never “nearly right”; it is either exactly right
or it is hopelessly wrong, one or the other; there is nothing in be-
tween. This is not the impossibly high standard of the idealist, it is
a mere fact for the realist to face. In a knot of eight crossings, which
is about the average-size knot, there are 256 different “over-and-
under” arrangements possible. (Wherever two strands cross each
other, one must pass over , the other wider.) Make only one change
in this “ over-and-under” sequence and either an entirely different
knot is made or no knot at all may result. To illustrate this, let
us consider #77, the Reef Knot, and #78, the Sheet Bend, two
totally different forms that do not resemble each other, that serve
entirely different purposes, but that may be tied on the same dia-
gram. One is a bend; the other is a Binding Knot. Yet there is pre-
cisely one point of difference in the u over and under ” between the
two. And if we make one additional change as indicated in #78, there
will be no nip whatsoever and the two ropes will fall apart (#79).
80, 81. There are very few knots , possibly less than a dozen , that
may be drawn up properly merely by pulling or jerking at the two
ends . There are few more important things to keep in mind than this
while knotting. Other knots must first be tied (formed) and then
worked (drawn up into shape). The more elaborate the knot, the
more deliberately must it be worked. Give one unconsidered pull,
ON KNOTS
and a hopeless tangle is apt to follow. There are even cases where a
totally different knot may result when carelessly pulled. Tie the
Granny Knot (# 80) around any object and pull one end, and it will
capsize into Two Half Hitches ($8i). A Reef Knot (#77) may
be capsized into Reversed Half Hitches (#1786) in the same
manner.
Many or even most of the qualities that are considered desirable in
a knot may on occasion be lacking and yet the knot be significant.
A practical knot may either serve its particular purpose well or it
may merely serve better than any other knot that offers. Here are
shown three knots which have perhaps the smallest margin of safety
among knots in everyday use. Yet each one appears to have been
found the best for its purpose, and on one, at least, a man’s life is
daily balanced.
82. The Slippery Hitch is often found in the sheets and halyards
of small boats. It may be spilled instantly when required, yet it is a
perfectly good hitch when properly applied and understood.
83. The Awning Knot is used as a stake hitch on marquees, and
in lining off crowds on wharves and decks, at county fairs, parades,
circuses, etc. It is instantly loosened by a jerk or blow, yet it is not a
Slipped Knot.
84. The Balancing-Pole Hitch appears to have the smallest mar-
gin of all, but apparently it has proved adequate for the purpose it
was designed for. When it is to be removed, the performer pauses,
part way up his pole, then flirts the rope from the top of the pole and
tosses it to the ground.
The tools of the sailor, the sailmaker, and the rigger, the three
craftsmen whose work is primarily concerned with rope, are the
result of years of selection and refinement. There can be nothing
better for knot tying, although commercial tools are designed for
heavy practical work. The confirmed knot tier aboard ship often has
a few homemade miniature tools of similar design stowed away in
his ditty bag.
85. The rigger commonly wears three articles on his belt: a mar-
lingspike, a horn (called the rigger's horn or grease horn), and
a sheath knife (#92). The horn contains tallow for greasing strands.
A marlingspike (#89) is a long metal cone for opening strands in
splicing and multi-strand knot tying. It has a protuberant head for
pounding, and a hole for passing a lanyard. The bulging head dis-
tinguishes it from the fid (#90), which has none and is usually made
of wood. For wire splicing the tapering point is usually somewhat
flattened. The rigger's knife (#92) is “square-pointed” and is thicker-
bladed than the characteristic sailor's knife ($93).
86. In cutting off lanyards and other rigging, the rope is held
against a spar, and the back of the knife blade is tapped or pounded
with the head of the marlingspike . A skilled rigger is one who can
cut in this manner all but two fibers of a rope, without scoring the
spar.
[ 19 3
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
87 . The sailmaker works in a loft while seated on a backless
wooden bench with his tools stuck into various holes at one end, the
right end if he is right-handed.
88. He has a small three-edged tool called a stabber for making
eyelet holes.
89 . Two different types of marlingspike are shown.
90 . Several sizes of fids are required. Although commonly of wood,
sometimes they are of whalebone, and often (in large sizes) of iron.
A wooden fid may have a head, but it does not bulge, like the mar -
lingspike head , beyond the line of :he cone’s taper.
91 . A pricker is a smaller metal tool with a handle of other material
(wood, leather, bone, etc.), or else it is an all-metal tool small enough
to be held in the grasp of the hand (#99A). It is used by all three
craftsmen but principally by the sailmaker. The sailmaker' s knife
(#94) is pointed and the back is often used in rubbing light seams;
for heavy seams a rubber (also called seam rubber) (#96) is used.
His needles (#98) are three-edged and of many sizes. A marline
needle may be fully seven inches long with three flat sides three
sixteenths of an inch wide. The shank and eye of a needle are smaller
than the blade, so that needle and thread are easily pulled through
after the Jieedle point has once been entered. Instead of a thimble the
sailmaker uses a palm , which is a checkered metal disk mounted in a
sole leather or rawhide band. There are two sorts: a roping palm
(#95), for sewing bolt rope to canvas, and a seaming palm (#97),
for sewing cloths together. To hold his work in place he uses a sail-
hook (#ioiD) which is made fast to his bench with a lanyard.
The sailor regularly employs any or all of the tools of the two
other trades. His work at sea obliges him at times to be both rigger
and sailmaker. A sailor's knife (#93) frequently has a blunt point
and, in addition to its professional uses, is the sailor’s only eating .
utensil, his fingers serving as boosters. On long voyages a cautious
shipmaster will lead the whole crew aft to the carpenter’s vise and
have the point of each knife snapped off to resemble the riggers
knife (#92).
The best material I have found for practicing fancy and multi-
strand knots is a round, flexible cotton braid called banding that is
used for small “individual” drives in cotton mills. For general prac-
tical knot work, a good quality Manila rope is all that is required.
For making splices, bolt rope is excellent as it is soft-laid and of
selected fiber. It is made with three strands only. Tarred ratline stuff
(three-strand) and lanyard stuff (four-strand) hold the lay better
than /Manila and allow of more and easier correction.
For bag lanyards, leashes, etc., and for the standing rigging of ship
models, there is a miniature rope in three and four strands of un-
bleached linen, made in a number of sizes for Jacquard loom harness.
“Oriental” stores carry beautiful braided silk cord in various colors
about five thirty-seconds of an inch in diameter. The P. C. Herwig
Company, 121 Sands Street, Brooklyn, New York, has cotton cord
for square knotting or “macrame” in almost every color and will
send a catalogue if requested. They also sell an excellent pattern and
instruction book on square knotting that is inexpensive and well
illustrated.
Costly equipment is unnecessary. The fingers and a long round
shoestring are all that is absolutely required for tying most of the
[ 20]
ON KNOTS
single-strand knots in this volume, and most homes will provide
workable substitutes for the preferred tools that are described.
The Tools
Steel pricker or bodkin
Cork projection board
Loop buttoner
Wooden cylinders for Turk’s-Head tying
Knife
Pliers
Substitutes
Meat skewer, ice pick, or
orange stick
Breadboard or chair seat
(and pins)
Hairpin
Mailing tube
Scissors
Fingers
But, as in other handicrafts, the use of proper tools and materials
will result in better workmanship and will save much inconvenience
and consequent waste of time.
In the past I made many tools myself and had others made for me,
before I learned where they could be procured. At least ten different
kinds of shop would have to be visited by any would-be purchaser
of the tools listed below, and the chance of finding everything in
stock would be slight. To simplify this situation for any who might
be interested I had arranged with a reputable ship chandlery to carry
in stock the materials listed and to sell them either individually or in
four numbered kits, #99, #100, #101, #102. Since this was arranged
war has intervened and the arrangement has had to be canceled.
However, if fifty cents is mailed to Warren Rope, Box 76, Westport
Point, Massachusetts, a ball of cotton banding will be mailed to the
reader.
List #99 has everything needful for general knotting. Lists #100
and #101 are supplementary and are primarily for any who may be
especially interested in splicing, in sailmaking, and in netting. List
#102 consists of occasional tools.
The illustrations, like the rest of the illustrations of the book, are
not drawn to any especial scale.
KNOT-TYING TOOLS
General Kit #99
A. Steel pricker, 4"
B. Long-billed pliers
C. Loop buttoner
D. Pencil and eraser
E. Block of tracing paper, 6"X 8"
F. Pantograph
G. Cork projecting board, 12"
square
H. Long push tacks, for use with
cork board
I. Packing needles
J. Wooden cylinders, 3"X6", and
iW'Xio", for tying Turk’s-
Heads.
K. Pins for same
L. Flexible wire needle
M. Large black thread (used as a
clue in making certain elabo-
rate knots)
N. Twine for whippings and seiz-
ings
O. Beeswax
P. Ball of braided cotton “band-
ing” for practicing knots
Supplementary Kit #/oo ( including tools for splicing)
A. Duck-bill pliers
B. Marlingspike, 9 "
C. Sheath knife, sailor’s
D. Ball Italian yacht marline
E. Fifty feet four-strand rope (lan-
yard stuff)
F. Fifty feet three-strand rope
(ratline stuff)
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
Supplementary Kit %ioi ( including sailmaking and netting tools)
A. Hickory fid, 8 Vi"
B. Sewing or seaming palm
C. Sail needles, tnree, assorted
D. Sail hook (for holding work)
E. Netting needle
F. Netting spool (i" practice
spool)
G. Cord for netting
H. Five yards $10 duck (canvas)
I. Linen cord, three balls assorted
(miniature rope)
J. Heaver
K. Thimble
Kit # 1 02
Occasional Tools and Materials
A. Shouldered tweezers for “fancy
knotting”
B. Duco cement
C. Sail twine
D. Roping palm
E. Pricker, 8 "
F. Linen cord in various sizes
G. Larger-size banding for knot
practice
H. Bolt rope, three-strand, for
splicing
Perhaps the easiest way to tie many of the more elaborate knots is
to place an outline of the knot desired on the cork projecting board,
and to tie the knot directly over this diagram, pinning the cord at
frequent intervals. A copy of the diagram is the first thing required.
Tracing paper is the simplest thing to use, but carbon paper will
serve equally well. Place the carbon paper between two sheets of
white paper and make either a direct tracing or a reversed one, ac-
cording to which side of the carbon paper is uppermost. To get a
reversed tracing with ordinary tracing paper, merely turn the first
tracing over and retrace on the back of it. If no tracing paper is
handy, use ordinary typing paper against a well-lighted windowpane.
Some of the more elaborate diagrams will require enlarging. The
pantograph provides an inexpensive and practical method of enlarge-
ment. One may be bought in any stationery shop for fifty cents and
upward. There are also various reflecting and enlarging instruments
of moderate cost, for sale in artists’ materials shops, designed for the
use of commercial artists. With these an enlarged tracing may be
made in one operation.
A photostatic enlargement is perhaps the simplest means and is in-
expensive, since a dozen diagrams may be traced on a single sheet
of 8 " X io" paper and photostated directly onto a sheet of sensitized
paper four times that size. If wished, one can be made directly from
the book itself without any tracing.
Knots are tied in various kinds of flexible material: thongs, withes,
roots, sinew, hair, and wire; but in this work, unless otherwise
specified, rope and cord will be the materials considered. The term
rope itself ordinarily applies to twisted vegetable fiber. The first
operation in making rope of such material is to spin or twist a number
of fibers into a yarn or thread. The ordinary twist is the same as that
of a right-handed corkscrew, and is termed right-handed. If the yarns
are twisted right-handed, the strands are left-handed and the rope
itself is right-handed.
[ 22 ]
ON KNOTS
103. Yarn: Is a number of fibers twisted together, “right-handed.”
Thread: In ropemaking is the same as yam.
104. Sewing thread: May be two, three, or more small yams
twisted together. Sailmaker's sewing thread: Consists of a number of
cotton or linen yams loose-twisted and is often called sewing twine.
105. Strand: Is two or more yams or threads twisted together,
generally left- handed.
106. Rope: Is three or more left-handed strands twisted together,
right-handed, called plain-laid rope.
107. Hawser: Large plain-laid rope generally over 5 " in circumfer-
ence is called hawser-laid.
108. Cable or cable-laid rope: Three plain- or hawser-laid ropes
laid up together, left-handed; also called water-laid because it was
presumed to be less pervious to moisture than plain-laid rope. Four-
strand cable has been used for stays.
109. Four-strand rope: Right-handed, is used for lanyards, bucket
bails, manropes, and sometimes for the running rigging of yachts.
110. Shroud-laid rope: Right-handed, four strands with a center
core or heart (formerly termed a goke) was used for standing
rigging before the days of wire rope. The heart is of plain-laid rope
about half the size of one of the strands.
111. Six-strand rope: Right-handed with a heart, very hard-laid,
was formerly used for tiller rope. The best was made of hide.
Six-strand “limber rope” was formerly laid along a keel and used
to clear the limbers when they became clogged. It was made of horse-
hair, which resists moisture and decay better than vegetable fiber.
Nowadays six-strand rope with wire cores in each strand is made
for mooring cable and buoy ropes for small craft.
112. Backhanded or reverse-laid rope: In this material the yarns
and the strands are both right-handed. It may be either three- or
four-strand and is more pliant than plain-laid rope and less liable to
kink when new, but it does not wear so well, is difficult to splice,
and takes up moisture readily. Formerly it was used in the Navy for
gun tackle and braces. Nowadays (in cotton) it is sometimes used for
yacht running rigging. Lang-laid wire rope is somewhat similar in
structure.
113. Left-handed or left-laid rope: The yarns are left-handed, the
strands are right-handed, and the rope left-handed, the direct op-
posite of right-handed rope. Coupled with a right-handed or plain-
laid rope of equal size, this is now used in roping seines and nets. The
opposite twists compensate, so that wet seines have no tendency to
twist and roll up at the edges.
In ropemaking, strictly speaking, yams are “spun,” strands are
“formed,” ropes are “laid,” and cables are “closed,” but these terms
are often used indiscriminately.
Formerly plain-laid and hawser-laid meant the same thing. Now
the term hawser-laid refers only to large plain-laid ropes suitable for
towing, warping, and mooring.
It is a common mistake of recent years to use the terms hawser-
bid and cable-laid interchangeably. This leaves two totally different
products without distinguishing names, and it is no longer certain
when either name is applied just what thing is referred to.
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
The fiber of white rope is moistened with water before laying, and
for that reason it is also sometimes called water-laid. The fiber of
ordinary rope is oiled, which makes a darker product.
114. Soft-laid , slack-laid , or long-laid rope: Handles easily, does
not tend to kink, and is strongest. Whale line is soft-laid.
115. Hard-laid or short-laid rope: Gives better surface wear and
is stiffer, but it is also weaker. Lariat rope is very hard-laid.
“Three-strand rope is approximately one fifth stronger than four-
strand rope, and hawser-laid rope is said to be stronger than cable-
laid in the proportion eight and seven tenths to six.” This statement,
which is frequently quoted, appears to have originated with Tin-
mouth, Points of Seamanship (London, 1845). Ninety-nine years is
a long while for any statement to stand unchallenged. Although cable
is harder laid than hawser, which tends to make it weaker, it is more
elastic, which adds to its strength. I can see no reason why well-made
cable in everyday service, where it is generally wet, should be in-
ferior to hard-laid hawser.
Both wet rope and wet knots are stronger than dry ones, since
water makes the fibers pliant and reduces the inside friction.
Corded is a general term applied to rope to indicate that it is
twisted rather than braided, but more particularly it refers to hard-
twisted stuff.
116. Rope that is stretched so that it has become attenuated and
has lost much of its twist is termed “ long-jawed rope .”
117. Swelled and weathered ends of rope are termed “ gouty ends ”
Rope is anything in cordage above one inch in circumference; any-
thing less is called “small stuff.” Formerly the size of rope was always
given in circumference, but now it is more commonly given in
diameter, except “small stuff,” in which the total number of the
component threads (yarns) is mentioned to indicate the product.
Ordinary clothesline is “nine-thread stuff,” and “twenty-one-thread
stuff” makes an adequate halyard for a small boat.
The word rope is seldom heard on shipboard, where it generally
refers to new stuff in unbroken coils. But rope is also the inclusive
term applied to all cordage, and a man is no sailor until he has
“learned the ropes.” There is an old saying that “there are seven ropes
aboard a ship,” but there are actually over sixty that have borne the
name. Luce’s Seamanship lists about forty which were presumably
current when his book was first published.
Line is a common name for cordage aboard ship, but the word
appears to be without specific meaning. Fishline, log line, ratline,
clew line, buntline, whale line, heaving line, spring line, and towline
indicate the indiscriminate range covered by the term.
ON KNOTS
There are several ways to break in new, stiff rope after it has been
properly uncoiled. The best is to put it to use and to be very careful
with it until it has adjusted itself. The worst way is to boil it in water,
which removes the oil or tar and renders the fibers brittle.
118. A good practical way is to tow it overboard for one day, then
turn it end for end and tow it for another day, having first made cer-
tain that both ends are well whipped. Afterward it should be care-
fully dried on a grating; wet rope should never be hauled taut and
allowed to dry while made fast.
119. If a rope or splice is fuzzy, rub it with a clout of mail of the
kind employed in kitchens for scouring pans. A piece of fine-mesh
chicken wire will serve if the sharp wire ends are kept out of the
way.
120. The neatest tool with which to cut rope is a sharp hatchet.
The end of an ordinary fireplace log makes a good chopping block.
A wide chisel will serve instead of a hatchet.
121. If the performer is not certain of his aim, or if the rope is
large, lay it across the greased, upturned blade of a sharp ax, and
pound it with a billet of firewood.
For smaller stuff the sailor’s knife is the best all-around tool, and if
kept sharp it will serve about every purpose.
Large cable may be whipped twice with wire and then sawed be-
tween the two whippings, with a fine-toothed saw, such as a hack
saw, or a cabinet saw.
Before unlaying the strands of a rope to make a Multi-Strand
Knot it is best to put a stopping on at the length of strand required,
and also to whip the ends of the individual strands. Use the Con-
strictor Knot (#1249) for these purposes.
After splicing do not trim the ends of strands flush with the sur-
face. Leave them longer until they have seen service and stretched
and weathered a bit.
To fair the strands of an opened rope before tying a Multi-
Strand Knot, first whip them and then beat them well with a mallet;
finally wax them.
122. A smoother knot, requiring more skill to tie, may be attained
by first putting on a seizing, then dipping the strands for a few mo-
ments in hot water, without wetting the seizing. Twist up the strands
tightly, attach ends to a board, and dry while under tension.
123. If the strands of a knot are to be canvas-covered, which is
usual with Multi-Strand Button Knots, first scrape the tips to a
point and marl tightly with a fine, soft-twisted linen twine which has
first been waxed.
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
124. When tucking a long cord , much tivisting and kinking 'will
be avoided if , instead of tucking the end directly , a loop is first stuck ,
and the long end pulled through after it .
125. After tying, but before working, an elaborate Multi-
Strand Stopper or Lanyard Knot, lay the ends up and stop them
together. This will insure against unreeving, and will keep the ends
of the completed knot well centered.
126. In tying any large knot, such as a Turk’s-Head or a Mat,
in which the lead is to be followed twice or more, middle your rope
and tie the knot 'with one half. Employ the other half later when
doubling or trebling the knot.
127. To correct an error after a knot or sinnet is tied, employ a
clue, preferably of a color and size different from the material of the
knot. A shoestring is excellent for the purpose. Starting at a point
beyond the error lay the clue in correctly, passing the error and con-
tinuing out to the end of the erring strand. Then remove the strand
that was in error, and at once lay it in again correctly, parallel to and
beside the clue . Finally remove the clue.
No amount of theoretical knowledge in any of the arts or handi-
crafts can compensate for the lack of practical experience.
A beginner should not be discouraged if he is not immediately suc-
cessful with a complicated knot. Usually the first few examples that
are given in each chapter are the simplest of their kind and are more
fully described than the others which follow. For that reason they
should be practiced first. A novice should avoid for a while anything
in the nature of a short cut. He will find that the professional usually
follows the charted course. If a failure is repeated, twist the diagram
on the table and tie the knot again from a new angle.
From time to time, among the illustrations, a symbol has been
placed to proclaim the merit or interest of a particular knot. It is
hoped that the meaning of these symbols will be at once apparent-
an anchor stands for security, a skull and crossbones implies the con-
trary, a star marks the best knot for a given purpose. These symbols
will be found on the opposite page.
It is an integral part of the scheme of this book to give the sources
of knots wherever possible. Various occupations are alphabetically
arranged in Chapter 2 , and their knots given. Among the practical
knots, where nothing else is indicated a nautical origin is presumptive.
Where the source is not made clear by the context, the practical
knots, which I have evolved independently, are frequently labeled
with the symbol of a spouting sperm whale. But this practice has not
been consistently adhered to, and I have made no particular effort
to mark my own contribution to decorative knots.
Certain chapters, such as those on the Single-Strand Button
(Chapter 5), Multi-Strand Button, tied on the table (Chapter 10),
the Shroud Knot (Chapter 19), the Monkey’s Fist (Chapter 29),
and the Solid Sinnets (Chapter 39), are mostly or entirely original.
Other chapters, such as those on the Turk’s-Head (Chapter 17),
and the Flat or Two-Dimensional Knots (Chapter 30), are the
results of protracted research and experiment. They contain much
original matter, but there is no way to determine what ground had
previously been covered by others.
[26]
ON KNOTS
IMPORTANT
STRONG
UNIMPORTANT
WEAK
PRACTICAL
USEFUL AND ORNAMENTAL
BEST FOR THE PURPOSE
RELIABLE
DIFFICULT TO UNTIE
PROBABLY ORIGINAL
OF THEORETICAL INTEREST
IMPRACTICAL
PURELY ORNAMENTAL
FOR THE INITIATED ONLY
DANGEROUS
EASY TO UNTIE
LIABLE TO CAPSIZE
DISTINCTIVE
NEW LIGHT
GENERAL UTILIT\
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
128. Diagrams are provided on which to tie the more intricate
knots. On a diagram for an elaborate Single-Strand Knot, the work-
ing end is indicated by an arrowhead, and the standing end with a
feather. Each diagram is further marked with small circles around
some of the points where two leads cross each other. At these en-
circled points the working end is always tucked under the other part.
Knots which have a regular “over-one-and-under-one” sequence
(basket weave) may have each aiternate crossing numbered in regular
sequence, i, 2 , 3 , etc., and the end is tucked under each circle that is
crossed in its regular numerical sequence.
To tie a knot upon such a diagram: Secure the cord, at the feather
end of the line, by pinning it or else by dropping it down through a
round hole in the center of the cork projecting board. Lay the cord
along the line, pinning it at frequent intervals.
129. Wherever another lead is to be crossed, at a point that is
marked with a circle, tuck the working end underneath.
Not more than two cords cross each other at any point in a
diagram.
A knot having been tied or projected, the next thing in order is to
“work” it, which means to draw it up snug while molding it into
proper shape. The slack should be worked out very gradually. This
is a matter of no less importance than correct tying , and often
presents a more difficult problem, requiring both patience and prac-
tice. Carefully fair the knot, and, once having arranged the cord in
symmetrical form, never allow it to become distorted, even momen-
tarily.
130. A pricker, bodkin, or stiletto is the most practical tool for
working a knot. Hold the point about even with the tip of the thumb
and prick up the strand. Hold the strand firmly between thumb and
the point of the pricker, and pull carefully.
For heavier pulling, use a marlingspike. The method is described in
Chapter 27 , ‘‘Occasional Knots” (# 2029 ) and (# 2030 ).
131. In finishing off a very tight knot employ a pair of pliers.
Grip a part firmly and roll the pliers just enough to raise the required
amount of material. Pull each part uniformly, and in regular turn.
Never try to complete an elaborate knot in one operation. Work a
Single-Strand Knot back and forth from end to end, tightening it
gradually and prodding it constantly into its intended shape.
A Multi-Strand Knot is always worked toward the strand ends.
Each strand is tightened, one part only at a time, and the correspond-
ing parts of the other strands are tightened before progressing to the
next tier of parts.
132. 133. To assist in reeving: when tying an elaborate knot of
small material, scrape the end to a point, saturate with Duco cement,
add twist, and permit to dry.
134 To prevent fraying in braided material, cut the end square
off and allow a round drop of Duco cement to dry on the very tip.
This will scarcely be apparent when dry. A shoestring that has lost
its metal tip may be repaired in this same way.
1
[28]
ON KNOTS
Round metal-tipped shoestrings are excellent for knot practice
and are sometimes procurable in colors, but at the present time long
shoestrings are difficult to obtain.
135. To wind cord into an ordinary ball, take a few turns around
one hand, and make these turns inta a wad by first twisting into a
figure eight and then clapping the ends together. Wind as pictured,
rotating the ball constantly and changing the axis from time to time.
136. To wind a kite string or a string that is wet, the following is
perhaps the best method to employ. “S” turns, exactly the same as
belaying-pin turns, are taken in the same manner, except that the
hand which holds the stick is pivoted or twisted right and left, so
the winding hand does not have to describe so large a figure “S.”
To dry wet rope, coil loosely, and lay on a grating in a strong
draft.
137. To uncoil large rope, or wire rope, place the coil on edge,
make fast the end, and unroll. Wire rope must not be allowed to
kink.
138. On shipboard new running rigging is rove off by leading it
through a tail block that is bent to the rigging above the coil. The
end of the rope is drawn from the center of the coil. Care must be
taken that the proper end of the coil is uppermost; the rope should
come out counterclockwise as shown in $139, that is to say, in a
direction opposite to the normal progress of a clock hand.
139. Kinks are removed from new whale line by making large
successive left-hand coils and drawing up the lower end each time
through the center of the coil. The rope is led through a tail block
in the rigging. Whale line is finally coiled down right-handed in a
tub, in a manner to be described later, as #3105.
140. The common way of taking out kinks and excess twist from
the end of a line is to twirl or spin it, beginning preferably at a dis-
tance from the end and working toward the end, but it is sometimes
worked the other way. Repeat until the entire rope lies fair.
141. To untangle a snarl, loosen all jams or knots and open a hole
through the mass at the point where the longest end leaves the snarl.
Then proceed to roll or wind the end out through the center exactly
as a stocking is rolled. Keep the snarl open and loose at all times and
do not pull on the end ; permit it to unfold itself. As the process is
continued the end gradually emerges. No snarl is too complicated to
be solved by this method; only patience is required.
142. To break twine or small cord, lay the right forefinger across
the standing part and revolve the finger exactly as the marlingspike is
revolved in making a Marlingspike Hitch, but pause when the cord
is in the position shown in the first diagram. Hold the cord firmly in
the palm with the thumb and fingers. Grasp the upper end with the
free hand, and jerk either with the right hand, the left hand, or with
both.
The method is used with varying technique; often the thumb is
employed instead of the forefinger. Do not allow the cord to slip
while jerking , or a cut finger may result .
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
143. To break a heavy cord or string, take a turn of the cord
around the left palm. Revolve the left hand so the cord is twisted in
front of the palm, and wind the standing part several times around
the fingers. Wrap the end (which is longer than illustrated) several
times around the right hand; hold everything firm and jerk stoutly.
In each of the two methods given the string crosses itself at right
angles, one part being held rigidly while the other part is strongly
jerked.
My first impression was that the weakening effect of this harsh
crossing was the important factor in causing the string to break in-
variably at this point. One of the “laws” quoted in dictionary and
encyclopedia knot discussions is that “the strength of a knot depends
on the ease of its curves,” and of course a right-angle crossing pro-
vides the uneasiest curve that is possible within a knot.
But two Bowlines tied into each other (the Bowline Bend, #1455)
have exactly the same right-angle crossing. And no less a naval
authority than Admiral Stephen Luce, “father of our Naval
Academy” and author of one of the best works on seamanship, says
that it is “about the best.” Richard Dana, Jr., says it is “the most
usual” of Hawser Bends. On testing this bend I could find no tend-
ency to break at the point of crossing. The material broke each time
at a point just outside one of the Bowline Knots.
So it is evident that some factor other than a harsh curve is present
when string is broken in the manner described. It seems probable that
this is the shearing effect exerted by the taut cord where it is hacked
across the section that is held rigid. At any rate the so-called “law”
does not fit this particular case.
144. To lay up the opened end of a three-strand rope, grip the
rope in a vise or clamp, or get someone to hold it. Take two strands,
one in each hand, twist them simultaneously to the right, and at the
same time lay the right strand over the left. Without rendering what
has been gained, shift the hands and repeat. When the ends are
reached half knot them together.
Then lay up these two strands with the single remaining strand in
precisely the same way. The right twist will open the two strands
already laid up, admitting the single or odd strand. Whip the end
when completed.
145. To lay up the opened end of a four-strand rope, lay up each
pair as already described, then lay the two pairs together in similar
manner and whip.
146. If only a short piece of rope is opened, twist any strand a half
turn to the right, then lay it to the left across the rope. Repeat with
each strand one half turn at a time and continue until the rope is com-
plete, then whip.
147. To secure the end after winding up a hank or ball, take a
loop buttoner or a doubled piece of stiff wire and thrust it through
the center of the ball. Thread the end of the cord through the wire
loop and pull it back through the ball. To make up a hank, wind the
cord around the palm of the hand and then add crossing turns.
148. A more common but less secure way to tuck the end is to
stick it under the last few turns, and then work all snug.
In very slippery material a series of Half Hitches is often taken
around the ball, but #147 is probably preferable.
CHAPTER 2: OCCUPATIONAL KNOTS
To a cobbler's aid , or Butcher's Knife ,
Or Porter’s Knot, commend me;
But from a Souldier's lazy Life ,
Good Heaven , pray defend me!
Old English Broadside
Although the sailor may be responsible for nine tenths of all
recorded knots, he can hardly claim to be the originator of the first
knot, for primitive man learned to hunt and fish before he ever took
to water, and when he began to hunt and fish he required knots for
his bows and traps, his nets and fishline.
Even after boats had been launched it was a long while before sails
were thought of; and the small craft that were first evolved were
hauled ashore when not in use. Centuries must have passed before
boats became so big that it was simpler to tie them up and leave them
afloat. Not until then did the sailor feel the need of knots. So it seems
fitting to consider the knots of other vocations and avocations before
discussing sailor knots.
In the rest of this book scrupulous care is taken to sort out, and
keep together in separate chapters, knots that serve like purposes. But
in this chapter trades and sports have been arranged alphabetically,
and often a dozen different types of knot are to be found under a
single heading.
Additional occupational knots are given here and there through-
out the book, for almost every practical knot belongs to some voca-
tion. It is proposed to show here the characteristic or peculiar knots
for each trade. There are certain elementary ones, such as the Reef
Knot and the Clove Hitch, which are so generally used that it seems
unnecessary to mention them each time they are indicated.
Many tradesmen’s knots were borrowed from the sailor, and fre-
quently these were modified to fit changed conditions. But whenever
any trade required something entirely different, the result shows that
the sailor had no monopoly in the ability to originate and apply new
knots.
[?i ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
The Archer
149. A bowstring is secured to the lower end of a bow in a num-
ber of ways. A Clove Hitch with the end finished off with Two
Half Hitches is both common and practical.
150. The grip of a bow is sometimes of cord or yarn, tightly
served, with the end buried under the turns. More often it is of
woven material with a piled texture, such as velvet or plush. Oc-
casionally the grip consists of a Wide Turk’s-Head Knot (Chapter
' 7 )>
151. The Bowstring Knot is a Loop Knot that has been known
and used for ages by the aborigines of at least three continents. It is
one of the oldest knots we have. In modern archery, however, an
Eye Splice (#2754) is preferred to the knot.
152. The Bowstring Knot Doubled. The advantage of this is not
very clear. Possibly it is stronger than the single knot, but the two
loops might easily prove awkward in a hurried stringing of the bow.
An Adjustable Bowstring Knot is shown as #1030.
To string a bow, place one end on the ground, spring the bow
outward with the knee, and slip the Loop Knot over the top lug.
The Artilleryman
153. The Artillery Loop, also called Man-Harness Knot and
Harness Loop, is tied in the bight of a rope. It is used for a hand- or
shoulder-hold in hauling field guns into position, and also in assisting
horses either in uphill work or when mired.
154. The Picket-Line Hitch is used in tying up artillery horses.
It was shown to me by J. Lawrence Houghteling, who learned it
while in the service at the Mexican border.
The Artist
An artist requires several knots when he goes a-sketching. The fol-
lowing are those that I have found most helpful.
155. A Bowline Knot. This is dropped over any protuberance at
the top of an easel. (See #1010.)
156 . A Killeg Hitch (#271) is then tied to a convenient stone or
bag of sand which acts as an anchor.
157. A second cord, secured to the easel with another Bowline,
is led around a large spike on the weather side of the canvas, and the
end is made fast to the standing part with an Adjustable Hitch
(#1800). This makes an excellent guy when a hard wind is blowing.
158. The most convenient way that I have found for carrying wet
sketches is illustrated here. Two canvases are placed face to face,
but not in contact; four clips, easily homemade of 3/32" wire, are
slipped over the corners. A heavy cord, with a Bowline in one end,
is wrapped around the clips between the canvases, and the end is
stuck through the Bowline, hauled tight, and made fast with a
Slipped Half Hitch (#1822).
The Angler
159. A variety of Angler’s Knots will be found later in this chap-
ter among Fisherman’s Knots. The knot pictured here is a common
way of securing a line to a ring hook and is much used in the cruder
branches of the art, that is to say, in hand-line and pole fishing.
OCCUPATIONAL KNOTS
The Automobilist
160. A method of affixing a towrope to an automobile or truck
axle for very short hauls; this was devised by Captain Daniel F.
Mullins, who needed something of the sort for dragging Diesel
engines and other heavy equipment on rollers about the wharf. A
most important practical feature of the knot is that it allows of in-
stant and easy adjustment. Wharves are narrow, and a load fre-
quently has to be hauled through narrow gaps in stacked merchan-
dise. Often it is necessary to make a short pull and then back up
to shorten the towrope. Almost any hitch in heavy rope is difficult
to open, but this particular one slackens when the car stops, and the
end is easily pulled through the hitches whenever it is necessary to
adjust the length. Captain Mullins’ hitch is the exact opposite of
Two Half Hitches, in which the hitches are in the end; in this the
hitches are in the standing part.
161. An amplification of the former knot: If the material is par-
ticularly large and stiff the end may be doubled and the knot will
be found easier to make. It will also be more secure. Neither knot is
suitable for hoisting.
162. The Axle Hitch may be used for emergency towing. The
knot is a variety of backhanded hitch, which requires but one passing
of the line around the axle although the knot itself is double. Having
rounded the axle, the loop is pulled out until all projecting parts of
the car are cleared, where the hitch is completed and the Bowline
(#ioio) added. If a Midshipman’s Hitch (#1027) ls used to com-
plete the knot instead of the Bowline, the knot will be less liable to
jam.
163. There are many occasions for lashing suitcases and other lug-
gage to the running board or other parts of a car, but the makers
of cars so far have failed to co-operate by placing a few handy lugs
here and there to lash to. Handles are about all we have for anchors,
and the manufacturers’ efforts have all been directed toward “stream-
lining” these to a degree where clothes cannot snag on them. If the
handles of both doors approach each other with a long-horned effect
nothing more is required than a round turn about both and Two
Half Hitches or else a Bowline to finish off with.
164. An application of the Buoy Rope Hitch (#3323) is prac-
ticable if the handle of the door has a heel as well as a toe.
165 . A Bale Sung Hitch (#1759) will never bind and may be
applied in a variety of ways. Nothing else is required on a round
knob save #2018, which is the easiest thing there is to untie. If put
in the bight as #1816 both ends of the rope are available for lashing.
166. Where there is danger of unlatching , a small stick can be
bound to the handle with electrician’s tape and the knot secured to
the stick close to the handle. The pull on the rope should be in the
direction that will hold the latch secure.
167. If the knob or handle tapers, or if its shape is an obstacle, it
can generally be taped in such way as to provide both a shoulder and
a good surface to prevent a hitch from slipping. The Rolling HitchU)
(* 173 5 ) is the safest knot to use in such a situation.
A method of roping a wheel when chains are lacking is given as
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
T he Baker
168 . The Pretzel Knot is too widely known to require much
description, but there are several varieties, and often nowadays the
pretzels are stamped out by machinery instead of being tied. The
Giant Pretzel Knot is from Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. It is
about ten inches long.
169 . The Overhand Knot appears to be the oldest form of the
pretzel
170 . A more sophisticated pretzel is a perversion of the Figure-
Eight Knot.
The Basketmaker
171 . The Slath or Slarth Knot appears at the bottom of splint
baskets. The stakes are opened up fanwise and the basket woven in
the regular “over-one-and-under-one” sequence that is known as the
“basket weave.” The Josephine Knot (#1502) and the Crown Knot
(#670) are also used in commencing baskets.
There is a great deal in basketmaking that approximates knot ty-
ing, but it constitutes a separate craft.
The Bell Ringer
172 . The Bell Ringer’s Knot is mentioned in Hutton’s Diction-
ary of 1815. It is actually the first half of the ordinary Sheepshank
($1153) and is probably a knot of considerable antiquity. Its pur-
pose is to keep a long end of rope from lying on the belfry deck
when not in use. The same knot is used in sail and rigging lofts and
in ship chandleries to keep the ends of new rope off the floor.
173 . If the rope is long and heavy two hitches are sometimes used
instead of one, and, if necessary, several round turns may be taken
instead of the single turn illustrated.
174 . Sallies, Sally Tufts, Sallie Tufting: A chafing gear of
brightly colored yams similar to “Baggy Wrinkles” (#3485) is rove
through the strands of a bell rope. These are packed hard and
trimmed evenly. Different bells have different colors to identify them.
The purpose of the tufting is to provide a proper handhold when
ringing chimes. The Sallies are usually several feet long, the length
depending on the swing or scope of the bell.
The Balloonist and Parachutist
175 . The basket or carriage of a balloon is generally toggled
($1922) to Eye Splices on the gas bag, so that the balloon may
easily be disassembled, or cast adrift from the basket.
The Bicyclist
Among the occasional knots in Chapter 26 is shown a method of
making an emergency, or jury, tire (#2028) out of a piece of old
clothesHrie.
The Blaster
i 76 . When a dynamite cartridge is to be exploded with a fuse,
employ a Constrictor Knot (#1249 and #1252). Pull the two ends
tight and it will hold as if adjusted with a ratchet. The hole in the
cartridge should be made with a stick of soft 1 A* /use in-
serted full length.
OCCUPATIONAL KNOTS
The Bookbinder
177. The Bookbinder’s Knot is employed when sewing the leaves
of a book. It is interesting, and quite unusual, because the knot, al-
though tied with the working or needle end, is actually formed in
the other end. It is identical in form with the Left-Hand Sheet
Bend. Shown to me by Mrs. F. Gilbert Hinsdale.
The Bootmaker
178. To secure thread to bristles: The preferred bristles are from
the “ridges” of northern domestic boars. Wild-boar bristles, which
make the best paintbrushes, are too large in diameter for sewing
bristles and besides are frequently so covered with pitch that the
expense of cleaning would make the cost prohibitive. Poland-China-
hog bristles are the best, as a considerable length is required.
Several threads are laid together and at the required length are
teased apart after rubbing out the twist on the knee. This divides the
twine without breaking the fiber.
After the threads are well waxed the tip of the combined ends,
which tapers to a microscopical point, is laid across the bristle near
the hide end, which is the working end, at a 45-degree angle, the
thread end pointing toward the tip. The thread is held in the right
hand and rotated with the bristle when the butt or hide end of the
latter is twisted between the thumb and forefinger. When the thread
and bristle have been laid up together for about one fourth of an
inch toward the hide end, the direction of the thread is changed so
that it doubles back over the first laid section and to within an inch
of the tip or small end.
With the bootmaker’s awl a hole is then pricked through the
thread at the point where it leaves the bristle. The hide or butt end
of the bristle is then stuck through this hole and drawn taut. This
locks the thread and bristle together. They are then rubbed smooth
with the fingers.
Sometimes, for light work, the thread is left as in the second dia-
gram, without sticking the bristle through the thread. By this latter
method a bristle may be used over and over again.
179. The bristle is split in half at the tip end for about one third to
two fifths of its length. The tapered end of the waxed thread is laid
into the crotch so formed, overlapping about one quarter of an. inch.
The thread and one of the legs are twisted together to within an
inch of the bristle tips. Holding this leg firmly, the second leg is
twisted similarly by itself (same amount of twist, in the same direc-
tion). The two legs are then placed together and held at the tips,
and the hide end is let go, whereupon the hide end twists reversely,
of its own volition, and the two legs are laid up together exactly as
rope is laid. A hole is next pricked where the thread leaves the bristle
(three quarters of an inch to one inch from the tip), and the hide end
is stuck through this opening and drawn snug. The whole is
smoothed out with the fingers. This method is perhaps securer than
the previous one.
180. 181. There are a number of simple ways of securing loose
ends when sewing is completed; two of these are shown. In machine
stitching, the untidy practice of back stitching is frequently re-
sorted to.
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
182 . In Diderot’s Encyclopedia (1762) a split-tip method is given
of threading a bristle , which starts in the same manner as #179, but
the thread is laid up with only one of the two legs and then a
Marlingspike Hitch (#2030) is tied around the other leg, which
prevents the first from untwisting. It is done by looping the thread
and taking a Single Hitch (#1594) over the hide end of the bristle.
This method of nearly two hundred years ago is still to be found
in daily use.
T he Burglar
I would do nothing to encourage the activities of this archenemy
of society, but I will urge him to consider the awful sequence of
the following knots with all its direful implications: the Basket
Hitch (#2155), the Handcuff Knot (#412), and the Hangman’s
Knot (#3 66). If his interest is a morbid one he can find several more
Hangman’s Knots in the chapter on nooses. And if he has any
choice, I am told that the last wish of the hangee is always granted.
The Butcher
183 . Butcher’s Knots are required in tying up “boned and rolled
roasts” and in preparing corned beef and salt pork for pickling. After
passing an end of twine around the meat a simple noose of some sort
is made around the standing part of the twine. When this noose has
been drawn up and held taut, the standing part is half hitched around
the end. This is done by first taking a right round turn with the
standing part around the tips of the left thumb and two or three ad-
joining fingers. The thumb and three fingers then grasp the end of
the twine and the round turn is transferred to the knot, automatically
forming a Half Hitch, which renders all secure.
184 . This final hitch is the salient feature of the Butcher’s Knot,
and it is so very efficient that any complication that will hold to-
gether while being drawn up around the meat will serve as the first
part of a Butcher’s Knot for a roast, which is hove taut, hitched,
and shoved across the counter while you wait. The hitch is put
around the end, not the end through the hitch.
For pickling and corning, however, something more is required.
The noose must jam sufficiently to hold the meat firmly for sev-
eral weeks until it is sufficiently pickled. During this process the
meat shrinks constantly and the knot has to be tightened from time
to time. The final hitch is not added until the pickling is concluded.
185 . A Square Knot is tied and then capsized into a Reverse
Hitch, and the standing part is then half hitched around the end
as already described. This is one of the commonest and also poorest
of the series. It is apt to slip considerably in the drawing up, and
occasionally spills and has to be retied.
[ 3 6 ]
OCCUPATIONAL KNOTS
186 . The Granny Knot. If one end of a Granny Knot is pulled,
the knot will capsize into Two Half Hitches, which makes a better
knot than the Reef Knot. The end is hitched as already described
and as pictured in #183.
187 . The Packer’s Knot. This knot is sometimes used in baling
and in parcel tying and is perhaps the most practical of Boned and
Rolled Roast Knots, for which purpose it is the one generally tied
by the more skillful butchers. It is, however, hardly secure enough
for a Corned Beef Knot, The end has a nice lead and the completed
knot is compact and neat.
188 . I have found this knot in use in several widely separated
places. But it is a clumsy one to tie, and I can see nothing in particular
to recommend it. It is based on the Packer's Knot, having one more
turn, which does not help a bit and which was added by someone
who could not leave well enough alone.
189 . This knot is easier to tie than the foregoing and often appears
on the table. Knots #184, #188, and #189 are closely related al-
though quite distinct. Corned Beef Knot #192, which is to follow,
also has points of resemblance, but is vastly superior to the others.
190 . This is perhaps the commonest of Butcher’s Knots and is
the one generally used by those who have no particular affinity for
knots. The Overhand Knot in the end (#515) prevents it from
spilling while being drawn up. The Overhand is tied first and then
the noose is made around the roast.
Butcher’s Knots are a variety of Binder Knots, and those just
given were originally included in the Binder Knot chapter, (#16),
where the reader may find several more knots of similar nature.
When no final Half Hitch is employed or required these knots are
commonly called “Jam Knots.”
The fact that the final hitch will make practically any Butcher’s
Knot secure undoubtedly explains why there are more Butcher’s
Knots to be collected than any other kind of knot for a single pur-
pose; more even than there are Weaver’s Knots. I do not think I
have ever failed to find at least one new knot in every butcher’s
shop that I have visited. In one market in Washington, D.C., I found
butchers using five different knots. It would have been more re-
markable, however, if I had found five butchers using the same knot.
The few shown here are only a small part of the number collected.
These have been selected because they are representative. They may
be either the best, the most characteristic, the commonest, the
simplest, or the most interesting.
In the illustrations the end of the twine is shown marked with an
arrow which sticks through a turn in the standing part. This, of
course, will tie the knot. But the technique of all Butcher’s Knots
is the same, and all ends have the final hitch added over the end, as
shown in Knot #183.
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
191. The Corned Beef and Salt Pork Knot. As already stated,
meat shrinks appreciably while in the brine, and the knot has to be
tightened from time to time before the final Half Hitch is added.
This is Buntline Hitch #1711 tied around its own standing part.
It is probably the best knot for the purpose.
192. This is another Corned Beef Knot, which appears to be more
complicated than is necessary, but holds exceptionally well.
The Cabinetmaker
193. Cabinetmakers still tighten their scroll saws by twisting a cord
with a short hardwood stick. This is inserted near the middle between
the parts of a doubled cord. The stick is held nearly parallel with the
cord and is twisted until the desired tension is reached. It is then
turned at right angles to the cord and when let go fetches against
the stretcher, which holds it in place. A thong is preferable for
stringing a saw, but small hard-braided sash cord will do nicely. The
same method is also employed when gluing up the legs of a Windsor
or other chair to which clamps may not be easily affixed.
Wire used in fencing is tightened in the same way, but it requires
more care, as it is apt to snap. A cordwood stick is inserted between
two wires and twisted until the tension is sufficient. Then the end of
the stick must be secured to a post or rail, or else driven into the
ground.
The Camper and Canoeist
Knots of interest to these sportsmen will be found under “Moun-
tain Climber,” “Prospector,” “Shooting,” and “Cowboy” in this
chapter, and under “Pack Lashing” in the chapter on lashing and
slinging.
The Chandler
194. In candle dipping a dozen wicks may be tied to a stick, or to
hooks on a stick or board, in the manner here shown. They are
dipped into a kettle of simmering water on which an inch or so of
melted wax is floating. A number of sticks are employed, and each
stick is dipped quickly in turn. Between turns these are hung up on
a rack to cool. A revolving rack is sometimes used.
The Carpenter
195. The Timber Hitch is very convenient for hoisting boards and
timbers, as it cannot jam and may be instantly loosened. If timber is
to be hoisted on end the Timber Hitch is made with the end of the
rope below the center of the timber and then a Half Hitch is added
in the standing part at the upper end of the timber (see Half Hitch
and Timber Hitch, #1733).
196. This and the hitch which follows are practical ways to sling
and hoist hammers. They are preferable to #198 because they cannot
slip off while in mid-air. Here a Slip Knot (#529) is placed between
the claws and a Single Hitch is taken around the peen.
197. Two Single Hitches. This hitch raises an interesting point
Although in form the knot approximates the Clove Hitch, the in-
trusion of the handle divides the knot into “Two Single Hitches.”
[ 38]
OCCUPATIONAL KNOTS
The carpenter is a very handy workman who is frequently called
upon to meet new situations. The chapter on lashing and slinging
should contain other matter of interest to him.
198. The commoner way to sling a hammer for lowering is by a
Clove Hitch around the small of the handle. If not drawn tight,
there is danger of the handle slipping out. In the dictionaries the
^love Hitch is sometimes called the Builder’s Knot, a name ap-
parently coined by Tom Bowling, who must have been unaware of
the English name Clove Hitch, since he did not use it, although it
had appeared as early as 1769 in Falconer’s Dictionary of the Marine.
In the trades, facts are generally passed along by word of mouth and
very little is acquired from books, so the builder himself is probably
unaware that he has a knot named for him.
199. The Sash Weight Knot is made as drawn. Before a sash is
hung, the weights being already in position, the cord ends are tied
into Slip Knots (#529) so that the ends will not unreeve through
the pulleys and disappear down the sash-weight wells.
200. The method of slinging a plank for use as a staging was shown
to me by Arthur Carlsen. It is sometimes tied with three round turns
instead of the two depicted, the left turns being worked the same
way in both cases, and the final turn passing over all intervening
parts to the end of the plank.
201. To sling a plank , or joist , on edge , make a Clove Hitch very
loosely, and work into the form shown. It may be used with one less
turn, if desired. The turns are taken loosely and must be extended, in
order to pass over the end of the plank. A Marlingspike Hitch may
also be made to serve a similar purpose.
202. When a carpenter slings a ladder , he generally uses a Sheep-
shank Knot over the ends of each side post. For the same purpose, a
sailor would use a Spanish Bowline, but he would have no ladder
unless he were hauled out in drydock.
For the proper method of tying the Sheepshank see #1153. Sev-
eral feet above the Double Loop the end should be bent to the
standing part. The Spanish Bowline is given as #1087. There are a
number of knots among the Double Loops which will sling a ladder
satisfactorily. Those that are rigid are to be preferred. The purpose
of slinging a ladder is, of course, to make a staging for painting or
incidental repairs. A board that in width is about equal to the length
of the rungs of the ladder is required to complete the floor of the
staging. Pothooks suspend the paint cans below the rungs.
203. The Sash Cord Hitch. The end of the sash cord is ordinarily
hitched around a screw, which is recessed in an auger hole bored in
the side of the window sash. Sometimes a Single Hitch is employed,
and sometimes a Half Hitch. If there is no screw an Overhand
Knot suffices.
The Cartman
The cartman or carter generally gets along with very few knots;
the Loop Knot (#1009), the Overhand ($515), and Two Half
Hitches (#1710) are his usual equipment. The more finished practi-
tioners prefer the Bowline (#1010) and the Figure-Eight (^524).
See under “Drayman” in this chapter for further information, and
also “Crossing Knots,” Chapter 15, and “Lashings and Slings,”
Chapter 28.
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
The Circus Man
The following series of knots is from Ringling Brothers' Circus.
The knot tiers were “Mickey” Gray, “Frenchy” Haley, and William
James O’Brien, who respectively represented the performers, the
canvas, and the animals.
Latchings or latchets originally provided a method of adding tem-
porarily to the area of a sail. They became obsolete for this purpose,
but the circus today finds them invaluable. The top of a large tent
consists of a number of separate rectangular mid-sections (one less
than the number of center posts) and two semicircular ends. The
several parts are laced together by a series of loops in one section
called latchings which are rove through eyelet holes in the opposite
section. They are illustrated in Chapter 27, “Occasional Knots,” as
#2064.
204 . The Dry Weather Hitch. Here again appears that most uni-
versal general utility hitch, the Clove Hitch (#1178), which will
be discussed at length in Chapters 23 and 33. It is quickly formed and
easily adjusted, but tends to jam if wet.
205 . The Wet Weather or Take-Up Hitch. A Single Hitch is
dropped over the stake, the end is backed, and a Slipped Half Hitch
taken around the standing part. It is easily adjustable even when wet
and never jams.
206 . The Crossing Knot is used in staking out, one of its purposes
being to define the straight and narrow pathway along which the
circus patrons are herded. The circus way of making it is quite
different from the way it is tied when making up bundles (#2077
and #2078). A bight is twisted a full turn and dropped over a stake.
207 . The euphroe block and the Crow’s-Foot stretch the edges of
a safety net for the aerialists. They are old sea practices now fallen
into disuse on shipboard. Originally they stretched catharpins, awn-
ings, and the standing ends of running rigging. Old practices are
continually being revived for new purposes. For that reason many
obsolete and obsolescent knots are shown with confidence in the
belief that sometime, somewhere, they will be used again.
208 . The One-Length Hitch is used on a side-wall pole. A number
of men haul down on the standing part, a Single Hitch is taken
around the base of the pole, and the end is brought around back of
the pole and eventually is slip hitched to the standing part.
209 . The Wrap Hitch is also for the side-wall pole, but is a more
temporary fastening than the foregoing.
210 . A Quarter-Pole Twist is a temporary hitch for the big top,
but as there is more weight on the quarter pole than on the side-wall
poles the rope passes around the pole a second time before being
made fast.
211 . A Quarter-Pole Hitch that is more secure than the last one.
212 . A Harness-Chain Anchor is to secure the end of a chain
in the horse tent, over which harness is thrown. The stakes often are
of iron; the chain passes shoulder-high down the center poles, se-
cured to each with a Crossing Knot (#206) or a Clove Hitch
(#204). A tackle between the anchor and the first pole makes all taut.
[40]
OCCUPATIONAL KNOTS
213. The Jumper Hitch (for quarter poles). Circus poles can have
no cleats or other projections, as they are unloaded in a heap on the
ground and afterwards are dragged all over the lot. After the rope
has been hauled hand taut, a Single Hitch is taken around the pole
waist-high, the line is backed one turn, or a round turn is put on (as
in $212), and then a Half Hitch is placed on the standing part above
the first Single Hitch. The rope is then staggered (zigzagged) up
the back of the pole, and after each crossing it is strongly hauled
and a Half Hitch taken around the standing part. The mechanical
principle involved is excellent, and it might serve well for reef pen-
nants in small boats, as it is much neater than a tackle, quite as effec-
tive, and much less in the way.
214. The Center-Pole Hitch. A center pole has a shiv near the
base. After the tent top is hoisted two turns are taken around the
pole under the standing part just above the shiv and these are jammed
down close to the shiv. The surplus rope is then wrapped around the
pole until exhausted. In raising a tent the center poles are first erected
and guyed, the guys being outside the tent, leading to the pole tops.
The canvas is latched together and the top partially hoisted before
the other poles are placed in position.
215. Camel Hitch. The camel is the most ruminative of animals,
and he slobbers constantly while he ruminates, particularly on his
Picket-Line Hitch, which he believes is provided for the purpose.
His knot is always sopping, but it has been very nicely planned; and
so, wet or dry, it is never difficult to untie and it does not slip in
either direction.
216. 217. Net Pole Knots. These guy the short poles that stretch
the safety net of the aerialists.
218. Balancing-Pole Hitch: To support a man from the top of
his balancing pole while he is climbing aloft. The knot is adjusted
before the pole is elevated. Everything must be taut before the stand-
ing part is brought over the top of the pole. The rope is instantly
removed by flirting the standing part. I know of no knot with a
smaller margin of safety. Another and possibly better arrangement
of the knot is given as #1812.
219. Slip Tackle Knot. Practically all apparatus tackles in a circus
are made fast in this manner, which at sea is merely a temporary
expedient. House painters and carpenters also employ the knot.
220. Tent stakes are broken out by means of a lever on wheels.
Several snug turns with a chain are taken close to the ground.
The Cook
221. To spit and truss a fowl . The spit is a long, flattened rod,
sharpened at one end and with a wheel or crank at the other. Down
its length are a number of slots through which to thrust skewers.
After spitting the fowl, stick the first skewer through the meaty part
of one leg, through a slot in the skewer, and then out through the
other leg. According to the size of your fowl, stick either one or two
additional skewers, which do not need to be so solidly imbedded.
Middle a long cord and secure it with a Ring Hitch (#1859) to the
eye of a skewer. Take several belaying-pin turns across the back of
the fowl and around the mo ends of the skewer; then do the same
across the breastbone. Repeat with the other skewers. Splay the turns
widely in order to support the tenderer parts of the fowl.
[ 41 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
The Climber
(See pages 62, 63, and 77.) When climbing a tree without a ladder,
wear rubber-soled shoes and pass a rope around the tree. Hold the
ends in either hand or else bend them together around the body.
Lean back against the rope and raise the feet, one at a time. Then
swing the body toward the tree and jerk the rope a foot or so higher.
Coconut trees are climbed in this way, a section of vine being used
instead of a rope.
The Cobbler
See under “Bootmaker,” near the beginning of this chapter
The Cooper
It may appear farfetched to include these split wood joints in a
book devoted to knots, but they serve a purpose similar to the bend,
and I know of no other place where they are to be found.
222. This is the ordinary hoop fastening for common commercial
barrels, the average content of which is between thirty and thirty-
three gallons. Hoops are of various kinds of wood. In New England
wild cherry saplings are much used. They serve no other purpose,
and farmers are anxious to be rid of them because of the caterpillars
they shelter. Birch also is used and is better than cherry. Hoops are
made up of green wood preferably, which is less apt to break in
bending. The bark is left on, and great quantities are made up and
stored in slack season. When making hoops by hand the cooper sits
on a shaving horse, which has a clamp or vise on the forward end,
operated by a wooden foot lever. The clamp grips one end of the
sapling, and the cooper, sitting astride the bench with his feet on the
treadle, pulls the drawknife toward him, riving the sapling into equal
parts. After the hoop is shaped the joint is made, often with draw-
knife alone, sometimes with the assistance of a hatchet.
223, 224, 225. More elaborate joints are to be found on runlets,
canteens, piggins, noggins, tankards, canopails, and other articles of
domestic cooperage where the taste of the housewife has demanded
more style and finish. These require better hoops, which in America
are made of oak, hickory, ash, and maple.
Old wooden buckets are now seldom seen. Apparently they were
worn out before the antiquarian arrived on the scene.
For many years a large proportion of the more substantial wooden
hoops have been iron-fastened. According to the logbook of the
Nantucket whaler Beaver , about one quarter of her casks in 1791
were iron-bound, but for small cooperage iron hoops had made little
headway before the turn of the present century, and today wooden
hoops are still used for many purposes.
Large hoops and hoops that were to be finished on both sides were
riven from logs with a froe and then shaped up with the drawknife.
Ash was the preferred wood, as it is the easiest to split.
The holes in evidence in the last three joints on this page were
punched with a gouge and mallet, which is quicker than boring and
if skillfully done requires no further shaping.
[42 ]
OCCUPATIONAL KNOTS
The Cowboy
226. The Hobble Knot was shown to me by Philip Ashton Rollins,
who tells me that it is a common range knot and is also used by the
prospector. It really consists of three Reef Knots and is preferably
tied in a strip of hide. The first and second knots are several inches
apart to give the horse’s legs a little play.
227. The Honda Knot was first shown to me by Will James. It
is based on the Bowstring Knot (#151).
228. The Overhand Knot (#515) is added for security. The two
knots are drawn tight, then the standing part of the rope is rove
through the hitch to form the noose required on a lariat.
229. An Eye Splice is preferable to the knot just given, but com-
paratively few cowboys know how to splice.
230. A half thimble is sometimes placed in a Honda Eye Splice.
Its four flanges are hammered tight around the rope.
231. An oval thimble , preferably of bronze, is also used.
232. A braided rope has some advantages over a laid rope. An eye
(#2779) is formed by riveting the overlapping part with copper nails
or tacks (two are sufficient); the overlap is then served snugly over,
preferably with copper wire. A sole-leather or rawhide bushing
sewed around the bosom of the eye is a common adjunct.
233. Sometimes a Spliced Eye is served over with copper wire.
234. The Cinch, Cincha, Latigo, Bellyband, or Girth Knot
reached our Western cow country from South America via Mexico
at the beginning of American ranching. It is a safer coupling than
the buckle employed on sporting saddle girths, and is much stronger.
The Theodore Knot is sometimes used as a hackamore or emer-
gency bridle by the cowboy. It was shown to me a number of years
ago by Will James. James Drew, in Rope and Cordage } says that very
few cowboys can tie it; that he knew of one who used to collect
payment for each knot he made, and that this resulted in a consider-
able revenue. The method of tying is explained in Chapter 12,
“Double and Multiple-Loop Knots,” as #1110. If seizings are used,
while tying, the problem will not be found difficult. Philip Ashton
Rollins writes me that the knot began life in the West under its cor-
rect Spanish name of “Fiador” but that after the Spanish War, as a
result of the publicity Theodore Roosevelt brought to the ranch and
range, the name was corrupted to Theodore.
Another knot, said to be employed as a hackamore, is the Jug or
Jar Sling (# 1142 ).
The Drayman
235. Drayman’s Knot. Logs are generally lashed to a cart or sled
with loose turns which are twisted tight with a handspike or a pole
(#2143). As they shift the lashings will slacken, but they are tight-
ened by adding a further twist with the pole. Stone is slung under a
high gear in about the same manner, chain being used instead of rope.
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
The Dressmaker
236. It is with some hesitation that I call the dressmaker’s attention
to the accompanying knot, which I have never seen anyone but a
sailor use. The two stitches pictured here actually form an Over-
hand Knot in the fabric.
For other knots of interest to the dressmaker see the Button
Knots of Chapter 5 and the Flat or Two-Dimensional Knots of
Chapter 30.
The Electrician
237. A Westport electrician tied this knot in a pull socket. It is a
sailor’s Wall Knot (#671 and #77 5) of two strands. I can recom-
mend it unhesitatingly to electricians in general for employment
where rough treatment is expected.
The Electric Lineman
238. To haul a wire to the arm of a pole, use this Half Sheepshank
of the same knot formation as the Bell Ringer’s Knot. It consists of
a bight passed around the wire and half hitched to the standing part.
See Bight Knot #1147.
A knot called the Lineman’s Loop is described as #1053.
239. The lineman whips the end of his rope with adhesive tape.
240. He makes a loop or eye with a Single Half Hitch and always
seizes his ends with tape. These practices are exceedingly practical
and expeditious.
It is characteristic of workmen that what the carpenter fashions
of wood and nails the tinsmith makes of tin, the blacksmith of strap
iron, and the pipe setter of pipe, the sailor gets his result with rope
and spars.
The Falconer
241. The jess is a short strap which fits around the leg of a hawk;
at the other end is a ring, which may be slipped around the forearm
of the falconer. It is closely related to the goose boot and hobble
(#434) shown later in this chapter.
The Farmer
242. The Manger Hitch. The cow is an inveterate slobberer. Al-
though not in a class with the camel, she should be made fast with a
hitch that will not jam when wet.
243. Halter Hitch. Horses are hitched with this knot the world
over. The end is stuck loosely through the loop, which is not tight-
ened. The knot is easily slipped after removing the end from the loop.
244. Cow Hitch. Oddly enough, this name is generally used by
the sailor, although the knot is also termed Deadeye Hitch and
Lanyard Hitch (#3317). It is the proper knot with which to secure
a cow to a crowbar. The Clove Hitch, although more often used for
the purpose, does not draw up snugly when the pull is all on one
end, and it is apt to unwind under a steady rotating pull. I have seen
a cow untie herself by walking around a crowbar to which she was
[44]
OCCUPATIONAL KNOTS
tied. This was undoubtedly without premeditation; the flies were
bothering her at the time, and her initial step was in the right
direction.
245 . The Binder Knot is tied in a wisp of straw that is bound
around a sheaf of grain. The two ends are brought together and laid
up with a strong right-handed twist. The doubled end is then laid
back on itself and the bight or loop so formed is thrust up to the right
under the binding. The method of tying this knot is shown as #1235
in several progressive drawings among the Binder Knots, a chapter
for which this knot is the prototype.
246 . The knot tied by a mechanical binder is an Overhand Bend
—with -bights tucked instead of the ends. Binder twine is a loose-twisted
material similar to spun yarn, but wiry in texture. It is impractical to
tie this knot for the purpose by hand.
The remaining knots on this page apply to flails, which even in
America are still used occasionally for threshing small crops of grain,
although the mechanical threshing machine has superseded it where
grain is grown in commercial quantities. Flails are also employed for
threshing beans and peas.
The implement appears to have been fully perfected many cen-
turies ago, and very few refinements have been added since Cain is
alleged to have killed Abel with one. Some authorities state that it
was invented in medieval times, but it would seem to be older, and
the knowledge of it possibly reached Europe from Egypt or Asia at
the time of the Crusades.
Practically all flails are jointed with rawhide, although I have seen
them tied with cord, rope, tanned leather, rags, and shoestrings. It is
necessary that the joint should pivot as well as hinge, which accounts
for the elaborate nature of some of these fastenings.
247 . This is a Flail Knot from Diderot’s Encyclopedia ( 1 747 ) -
Small steamed and bent wooden yokes are lashed with rawhide
thongs, let into circular grooves which are cut around the ends of the
handle and the swingle, so forming two swivel joints. The rawhide
connecting strap is tied in a Becket Hitch (#1900).
248 . A flail joint from Bristol County, Massachusetts. 1 have never
seen this particular knot elsewhere.
249 . This is a common fastening on flails. See Strap Hitch #1704.
250 . A flail from Chester County, Pennsylvania. The strap is rove
three times through the slit, and then the end is hitched around all
three turns, forming something in the nature of a Becket Hitch
(#1900), although it is more a lashing than a hitch.
251 . A turn having been taken around the yoke, X turns hold
the thong securely in the groove of the handle. The two ends are reef
knotted together (# 1 204).
252 . In this, two round turns are taken about the yoke, and then
frapping turns (#2109), at either side of the handle, hold the thong
snugly in the groove. The average flail has a handle between four
and four and a half feet long, and a swingle twenty-four to forty
inches long. The length of the handle varies with the height of the
thresher, and the weight and length of the swingle depend on the
kind of grain to be threshed.
[45)
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
253. This is a method for making and attaching a fly , snapper , or
stinger to an ox whip. The 'whiplash is made of two long rawhide
thongs which are first middled and then doubled to form a loop at
the thick or stock end. The four strands so formed are platted into
a Round Sinnet (#2999). Occasionally six strands (#3011) are
used. From the loop end the width of the strands is widened for a
foot or so and then is gradually narrowed again to the tip, so that
when platted the lash has a snakelike form.
To add the fly to this braided lash, another short, narrow thong is
required. This is doubled and tied at the center with a Sheet Bend to
the end of the lash. The fly is then laid up (twisted as in ropemaking),
and finally an Overhand Knot is tied in the doubled end, which has
been left long. The loop in the thick end of the lash is then made fast
to the whipstock. Several different ways of securing whiplashes to
whipstocks are shown on pages 544 and 545.
To make a neater job, take the tip ends of the sinnet and form an
eye with two adjacent strands (#2800), and then lay in the other two
strands, over and under, and contrariwise. Put on a whipping and
then bend the fly to the lash as already pictured and described. Draw
snug, wet with hot water, roll underfoot, and allow to dry.
254. Seize the thongs at the end of the sinnet and take a Half Knot
(#1202) with each strand in turn around the other three. Each time
take the strand next to the left of the one previously tied. Keep the
strands fair and close together. Wet, roll underfoot, then dry. This
will bulk very little larger than the platting.
255. Whip the sinnet and cut off both strands that rotate to the
left. Make a slit in the end of each of these, and stick an opposing
strand, which rotates to the right, through each slit. Be sure that
everything is taut and fair. Lay up the two long ends and twist them
together, being careful to arrange them so that they cover the ends
of the short strands.
256. Lay up the fly for several inches and then tie a Two-Strand
Matthew Walker Knot (#77 6) near the end. In New England a
great many sailors were farm-bred, and they often returned to the
soil, so hereabouts it is never surprising to find sailor’s knots tied in
farm gear.
257. The lash of an ox whip when out of use was generally tied in
a Multiple Overhand Knot (#5 17) around the whipstock.
258. This is the universal farm method of tying a neck halter for
either a horse or a cow. The part marked X surrounds the neck, and
the halter cannot slip and choke the animal.
259. The Grass Knot is the best bend for broken straps or any
other flat material such as shoestrings, straw, cane, etc. It is discussed
more fully in the chapter on bends as # 1490.
260. Whenever you go afield, there is no better way to carry youf
water jug or bottle than suspended by a Jar or Jug Sling ($1142).
The sailor’s method of tying this is described in Chapter 14.
r
L
OCCUPATIONAL KNOTS
The Farrier
The farrier uses a Nose Twitch to steady a nervous horse while
filing its teeth and sometimes when shoeing. This is tightened by
twisting it around the horse’s upper lip. On occasion it is applied to
an ear. The instrument is illustrated (#1261) in the chapter on
Binder Knots. Generally it is made of an old wagon spoke and a
braided cord or else a thong.
The Fencer
These two practices I learned in Boston many years ago from
Professor Rondelle, a fencing master.
261 . A foil handle of twine closely half hitched in a helix along the
full length of the hilt provides a grip not liable to turn in the fencer’s
hand. See #3450.
262 . A button made of well-waxed twine. This is far superior to
the commercial rubber button, as a raveled end will always give
warning of its failure. The turns must be very snug and even. Start
with a Clove Hitch. After the final surface turns have been taken
toward the tip (tied as in Whipping #3443) the end is pulled taut
and cut off short.
The Fireman
263 . The Sheet Knot: Sheets and blankets are torn into strips and
bent together with Bend #1403, which consists of a Reef Knot
(#1204) and two Overhand Knots (#515) to serve as an emergency
fire escape. One end is tied to a bed, which should be rolled close to a
window. The window should be opened no farther than is necessary.
264 . The Fire-Escape Knot is for the same purpose, but it is gen-
erally a fixture found in country and seaside hotel bedrooms. The
proper way of tying is most interesting and is described at the begin-
ning of Chapter 4, “Single-Strand Lanyard Knots.” In England this
method of tying has long been a part of the regular drill in rural
fire departments, and it is now being taught in America, where it is
sometimes called the “Philadelphia Knot.”
265 . An injured or unconscious man is lowered by a Spanish Bow-
line Knot (#1087), each leg being stuck through one of the loops.
After a hitch is passed close under the armpits, the man may be
safely moved.
266 . A ladder may be hoisted or slung by passing the loop end
of a long Bowline Knot (#10 10) under the upper rung and back
over the side bar ends. This is similar to Forked Stick Hitch #439.
267 . Another common way to sling a ladder is to place a Clove
Hitch ($1177) around each side bar, immediately under the upper
rung, before tying the Bowline.
268 . A fireman’s ax is slung by slipping an Eye Splice or a loop
around the helve, leading the line over the head, and putting two
hitches (#3114) around the helve end.
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
The Fisherman
The knots now to be shown apply to fishing as distinct from
seamanship. The fisherman’s knots, so far as his boat gear is con-
cerned, do not differ much from other sailor’s knots. But for his
fishing he uses a number of original ones which, surprisingly enough,
do not seem to have been recorded. For instance, the Ground Line
Hitch (#277) and the Ganging Knot (#276), which are the essence
of cod fishing, do not appear even in the knot pages of the Atlantic
Fisherman's Almanac , which is a trade journal that hangs in almost
every fisherman’s cabin.
The professed object of both the professional and the amateur
fisherman’s activities being to catch fish, and most of their practices
being applicable or of interest to each other, their knots will be
shown together. The use of the fly may be a little out of the pro-
fessional’s everyday requirements, but he occasionally uses spinners,
eelskins, and other lures. On the other hand, there is no practice of
the professional that will not provide sport for the amateur.
269, 270. These are the common ways of stringing fish, if you do
not wish to hide your catch under a basket. In #269 the long end of
the stick is shoved up through the gill and out of the mouth. In
#270 a short, sharpened stick the size of a meat skewer is shoved into
the mouth and out the gill, where it turns at right angles and acts as
a toggle.
271. A Killeg Hitch-- also spelled and pronounced Kellig, Kel-
lagh, Kellick, Killock, and Killick— consists of a Timber Hitch
and Half Hitch (#1733) that are drawn closely together around a
stone. In its stricter application a killeg is a stone-weighted wooden
anchor, while a stone used alone as an anchor is called a sling stone,
and is used on rocky bottom where an anchor is apt to foul. It is em-
ployed in anchoring seines, lobster, crab, and eel pots, small boats,
decoys, etc.
272. The Slingstone Hitch comes from Sakonnet Point, where it
is used in anchoring lobster pots. It may be tied either in the bight or
in the end. Pull the ends strongly, and the turns in the standing part
are spilled into the loops.
273. This is a Buoy Rope Hitch from Polperro, England, used on
seines.
274. Net Line Knot from Looe. A single headrope, when wet,
will swell and consequently twist, thereby fouling and rolling up the
edges of seines. To prevent this two headropes of equal size and op-
posite lay (twist) are led parallel with each other. This knot, which
is of the type termed Binder, seizes the two together. Except that it
is used as a knot instead of a hitch, it is similar to #273.
275. A slightly different Net Line Knot from Clovelly.
276. The Ganging Knot is used on codfish trawl. A soft line is cut
into short, equal lengths, which are hung over a convenient nail or
hook, and long loops of uniform length are tied in one of the ends
of each, after which fishhooks are added to the loops as shown in
#310 and #311. In the left drawing a hook is shown to indicate the
[48]
OCCUPATIONAL KNOTS
purpose of the knot, but in practice the hook is not added until after
the loop has been tied.
Hold the end with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, and
with the standing part take a Half Hitch around the two parts as
pictured in the central diagram.
277. The Ground Line Hitch is the knot with which the gangings
are secured to the trawl. A very short end is gripped under the left
thumb, and the knot is tied with the loop end.
278. The same knot may be tied with the end while the loop hangs
down at its fixed length. These are the two standard ways of secur-
ing the Ganging. It may be noted that this knot is closely related
to #273 from Polperro and that it is identical with the Picket-Line
Hitch (# 1676 ), although reversed.
279. Split a cork lengthwise and secure it to a wooden reel with a
Constrictor (# 1249 ). This is to stick hooks into when they are not
in use.
280. 281. A sw'ordfisherman’s iron has a long Eye Splice (# 2733 )
made through the hole at the small of the head. The splice is stuck
several feet from the head. On the underside of the head is a shoulder
with a socket into which the iron end of the pole is fitted. The head
is held in place by the tension of the line, which is hauled taut and
jammed under a wooden cleat on the side of the pole. When a fish
is struck the head pulls off the shaft, the line is snapped out from
under the cleat, and the pole is recovered by means of a bib line
attached to the end.
282. A homemade gaff. Nip the barb and ring from a halibut hook,
and file smooth. Heat the ring end in a candle flame to take out the
temper. Then bend it into proper shape. Bore a hole through the
handle to take the end. Put the hook in place, rivet the end, and then
serve over.
283. A fisherman's litter . This is quickly made by shoving two
spare spars, oars, or poles through a coil of rope and making fast the
ends of the rope.
284. A dory is always swung by two long hooks attached by Ring
or Strap Hitches (# 1860 ) to tackles called Spanish Burtons.
285. The stern becket, to w'hich the after tackle is hooked, is rove
through two holes in the stern board, and each end bears a Matthew
Walker Knot (# 682 ). The forward tackle hooks to the Eye Splice
in the painter.
286. The Angler’s Loop has an excellent lead and is easily tied (see
# 1017 ). This is unquestionably the most satisfactory Leader Loop.
287. The Bowline Knot is often used for the same purpose, but it
has a poor lead, is not quite secure in gut, and so is not recommended.
288. The Fisherman’s, Waterman’s, Englishman’s, or True-
Lover’s Knot. This is much used and is interestingly tied by the
method given as # 1038 , but it is unnecessarily bulky and kicks up
considerable fuss in the water.
289. A made eye is described as Eye Splice # 2792 . For larger
material Eye #2794 is recommended.
[49]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
29 5
it
298
290. The Loop Knot is simple, secure, and strong, but without so
good a lead as some of the others.
291. Another Leader Loop, which has a good lead.
292. The Gut Knot is tied in the doubled end of a snell or snood.
A doubled snell gives a stronger line with extra surface where wear
is most severe. It also does away with a cumbersome knot at the eye
of the hook, where it is apt to attract the attention of a fish. The loop
is bent to a hook with a Strap or Ring Hitch as shown in #310 and
#311. A snell is made of horsehair, gut, silk, or nylon for fresh
water; for salt water, flax and hemp are also used. Hair and gut
should be well soaked, for at least ten minutes, in lukewarm water
before tying. Moisten in the mouth if no warm water is handy.
293. The English, also called Englishman’s, Waterman’s, Fish-
erman’s, and Angler’s Knot, is much favored by anglers for bend-
ing two pieces of gut in a leader. Sometimes the ends are given an
additional hitch, as in #497, and one end is sometimes left long for
affixing a dropper fly, the other being trimmed short.
294. Grapevine Knot, also called Double English Knot. For fish-
line, either braided or twisted, ravel the ends with a pin or the point
of a hook. Draw the ends between the teeth to flatten them before
tying. If well done, this will run easily through the guides of a rod.
295. The Barrel Knot for gut is a compact knot that does not
untie or slip. There is no better knot for making up a leader.
296. The Water Knot. The name is also applied to various other
knots, but this is the one so termed in early editions of Izaak Walton,
which should be sufficient authority for any angler. It is compact
and reliable.
297. The Becket Hitch is used to secure a reel line to the Leader
Loop. For extra security an Overhand Knot (#515) may be tied in
the end.
298. This pictures the same knot “slipped,” which is recommended
for late afternoon fishing, when darkness is about to descend to make
untying difficult.
299. The Lorn Knot was shown to me by Richard S. Whitney. It
is an excellent Leader Loop Knot, which makes very little commo-
tion when whipped through the water. Hunter, in his Fisherman's
Wrinkles , calls it the “Figure-Eight Knot.”
300. 301. Two well-known alternative methods for the same pur-
pose as #297, #298, and #299 are given here. All of these are more
secure than the Becket Hitch (#297), but they are also more prone
to jam. Some anglers prefer bending a leader to the reel line with two
loops, forming a Strap Bend (# 1493), in which case a permanent eye
(#289) is made in the end of the reel line by first fraying and waxing
the cord and then laying the frayed end against the standing part
and whipping it.
OCCUPATIONAL KNOTS
302. A Swivel Hitch. The end of this may be cut fairly short.
Often, in angling, two swivels are used in a single line, to diminish
the possibility of jamming.
303. A Swivel Hitch. Another knot for the same purpose as the
former. If the swivel ring permits, it is much better to pass the
material through twice, as it will stand more wear and be stronger.
Swivels are necessary in lines bearing spinners and spoons or any
other sort of tackle that tends to revolve and impart a twist that will
eventually form a kink. A kink is almost certain to break a line, and
of course a line never breaks except at an inopportune moment.
The Buntline Hitch (#1847) is another excellent knot with
which to make a line fast to a swivel.
304. A cast , also called a 'whip , includes leader, snell, dropper, and
flies. It is more quickly attached and detached by a Strap Hitch
($333) than by any other. This hitch, however, is objected to by
some, because the commotion made in drawing it through the water
tends to scare fish.
Several pieces of gut, termed leaders, are bent together into one
line. In length a cast or whip may be as much as six or eight feet,
depending upon the kind of fish sought. The largest gut is at the reel
end, and each leader is smaller until the tail fly is reached. This tapers
the line and puts the greater strength at the reel end. Dropper flies
are generally attached at each joint in the cast, and the snells of the
dropper flies should be of the same diameter gut as the section of the
leader to which they are attached. A length of gut attached to a fly is
variously termed a snell, snood, snooding, snead, sid, and tippet.
They are closely related to the professional fisherman’s ganging lines.
The final fly of a cast is termed the end , tail , or drag fly. When the
cast is ready to be bent to the reel line it is said to be “made up,”
“fitted,” or “rigged.”
305. The Turtle, Major Turle’s Knot or Turl Knot. For se-
curing gut to an eye hook. This knot is much used and is dependable,
but it has one bad feature: the fly is apt to become ruffled while
being attached.
306. The Jam Knot; 307, the Half Hitch; 308, the Figure-Eight
Knot; and 309, the Double Overhand Knot, are all first stuck
through the eye and then tied around the standing part before being
pushed forward and capsized around the neck of the hook. They are
then drawn taut. Knots tied in this manner are less apt to ruffle the
fly than the Turtle Knot.
310. The Tag Knot or Ring Hitch. This shows the method by
which loop #292 (the Gut Knot) is secured to a hook by first reev-
ing the loop through the eye and then passing it over the hook. If the
eye in the hook is small and the light dim, the eye may first be stuck
through a bit of white paper and then the knot tied with the paper
for background. This makes the eye of the hook much more visible.
311. The end of a Noose may also be rove through the eye and
looped over the end of the hook in the same manner.
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[51]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
312. This knot is tied directly around the hook and requires no
capsizing; it is Double Becket Hitch #1902.
313. The Salmon Knot, as shown to me bv D. M. Beach, is both
____ c
neat and compact. There are other knots which bear this name, or
the name of some other fish, but there is too little uniformin' in the
terminology of anglers to admit of consistent labeling.
314. The hooks so far discussed have eyes. We now come to
“flatted hooks” or “tad hooks,” the flatted end being termed the tad
by market fishermen. Commercially made fly hooks generally have
neither tad nor eye, the gut being seized to a tapering shank. One of
the commonest of market fishermen’s ways of securing a flatted hook
is with the Clove Hitch (# 1775 ).
315. An old and established way of securing to both flatted and
eve hooks.
*
316. This is neater and quite as satisfactory.
317. A refinement of the last two is shown here. To tie, w ax and
middle a piece of line, and lay up a snell or ganging by twisting
the two ends together; add a Single Hitch.
318. An old favorite among hand-line fishermen.
319. A sound, practical method; can be tied by the unhandy. Long-
shore and wharfside fishermen use it without seizing the end. It
consists of a series of hitches. Many very good anglers have five
thumbs on each hand. They survive and actually catch fish by buy-
ing ready-to-wear tackle.
320. Diderots Encyclopedia of 1747 contains this Hook Hitch.
The hook differs from the modern one by having the e.nd of the tad
cut off square, or diagonally, instead of its being rounded. The line,
with an Overhand Knot (# 515 ) in the end, is single hitched below
the tad and laid along the shank. A short piece of cord is half knotted
(# 1 202 ) around the hook and line and is then served in either direction.
321. A Grand Banker’s cod hook of 1840 . The end of the line is
scraped to a taper point, and an Overhand Knot (#515) is tied in it
and placed about halfway down the shank. The standing part of the
line is served down an inch or so before it is seized to the hook. At
the lower end the line is stuck back under the service for four turns,
--j — J J — ug. Small-sized angler’s hooks are
\Muyr — r .. ;ermed whipping by anglers, but
at sea it would be termed seizing. All whipping should be varnished
if possible.
322. The method described here is found in an early edition of
Izaak Walton. The end is first laid up the hook, and at the tad it is
doubled back and about four turns made down the shank. Then the
standing part is laid upward and the whipping continued down the
hook around all parts. When the bight is reached the end is stuck
through and hauled snug. Finally the standing part is pulled upon,
which grips the end.
323. This modern way differs from Walton’s only in lacking a
collar of three or four turns at the tad end.
OCCUPATIONAL KNOTS
324. The usual way to mount a tapered hook that has neither tad
nor ring is as follows: Wax a piece of fine silk about two feet long.
Hold the barb end of the hook in the left hand; lay the end of silk
against the shank at about half length, and wind it in several long
turns up to the end of the shank. Now lay the end of the gut over
these turns and along the shank, and whip neatly and firmly back to
the bend of the hook. Finish off by sticking the end, as shown in
# 322 . A neater job is made if the tip of the gut has been scraped to
a taper. Large hooks may be whipped with fishline or sail twine.
325. If an eye is wanted on a flatted hook, it is made by doubling
a short piece of line, tapering the two ends by scraping, and whipping
them to the hook as shown.
326. Two hooks may be made up in this manner. The barbs may
be turned in opposite directions if preferred.
327. The usual “whipping” employed on tackle may be made in a
variety of ways. A convenient one is to make the last few turns
around a hairpin; after threading the end withdraw the hairpin, pull-
ing the end with it. A double string may be used instead of the hair-
pin. It is laid along the hook before the whipping is put on, and the
whipping is served over it.
328. Fish that snap at the line require special tackle. Shark and
barracuda hooks are usually mounted on chain. For smaller fish wire
may be used. If chain or wire is not at hand, a hook may be attached
to the line by one of the methods already given and the snell served
with copper or flexible galvanized iron wire, or else it may be plaited
over with rawhide thongs. Either shoestrings or belting laces will
serve for the latter. Lacking these, use heavy fishline. If the fishline is
tarred, dipped in fine beach sand, and allowed to dry, it will serve
surprisingly well. Hold the hook in a vise and place the material
around the shank. Start as in the left diagram and continue as in the
right diagram. The top cord or thong is moved each time. Each cord,
after being laid, returns to the side from where it started, but into
the lower position. The cycle is always the same: move the top strand
to the rear, across the back, forward between the two opposite
strands, and back to its own side below its sister strand. This is Four-
Strand Square Sinnet #2999. When the proper length has been
made, tuck each end under a different strand of the fishline as in
splicing. If the line is a braided one, cut the thongs off diagonally at
different lengths and whip them over.
328%. An elastic span is sometimes added near the end of a line,
in trap fishing and big-game fishing, to take up the shock of striking
and playing the fish. A large band may be made from a cross section
of a tire inner tube which is bale hitched at both ends. To tie the
second end it will be necessary to reeve the end of the fishline
through the knot. A Mouse (# 3498 ) is desirable for each knot.
A single strand of rubber is sometimes spliced into the line
(# 2828 ), but it is better to employ a seizing. Take a silk thread or
sail twine and lay a series of separated turns, place the end of the
rubber over these, and then serve tightly over.
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
The Single Harness Loop (also called Man-Harness Knot and
Artillery Loop) is shown in the chapter on Single Loops in the
bight (#1050). It is the Loop Knot generally recommended for at-
taching a dropper fly. This is undoubtedly because until very recent
years only two Single Loops in the bight appear to have been
recorded, the other being the Loop Knot (#1046). In recent years,
however, the agricultural college knot bulletins have published sev-
eral others. The Single Harness Loop (#1050) is not very secure
under ordinary circumstances and is quite unfit for use in wet gut,
where it is apt to slip. The Loop Knot (#1046) is secure, but is par-
ticularly weak, and also has a bad lead. All three knots to be given
are slightly bulkier than the two mentioned, but they are stronger
and more secure and have a better lead.
329 . The Double Harness Loop: For attaching a dropper fly.
Form an ordinary noose in the line (#1052), and draw a bight
through the noose as indicated by the arrow. When tying, one should
allow much more material than seems necessary, as there is consid-
erable slip while the knot is being drawn up; for that reason the two
which follow will be found more practical, as they may be tied in a
hurry and without taking any particular precautions.
330 . This knot draws up easily into the desired shape and is simple
to tie. It is both strong and secure, but it offers a little more water
resistance than the other two.
331 . The knot sometimes called the Lineman’s Loop is secure and
has an excellent lead. It is also compact and is the neatest of the lot.
Of the three I should recommend whichever one is found easiest to
tie.
332 . A Bowline (#261) may be put in a dropper fly snell and
attached to one of the three Leader Loops that have just been shown.
333 . Snell Loop #265 may be secured to a leader by sticking one
end of the snell through the Leader Loop and then reeving the hook
through its own loop. This forms a Ring Hitch (#1859), which is
stronger than the previous hitch.
334 . The Becket Hitch (#1900) is easy to tie and untie. An
Overhand Knot is sometimes added to the end of the snell for
greater security.
335 . Tie a Noose in the leader bight, rather loosely. Insert the
dropper gut as shown, and pull on the leader as indicated. This swal-
lows a section of the dropper snell and gives Knot #2005 with the
same formation as the Sheet Bend (#1431). But since the two ends
of the leader are both actively in use and the snell is pulled at right
angles, it can hardly be regarded as the same knot.
[54]
OCCUPATIONAL KNOTS
336 . A Dropper Fly or Snell Hitch. This is the same formation
as the Sheet Bend (#1431) but is differently tied. Make a round turn
in the leader and reeve the snell as shown in the drawing. A large
round turn is required, so that the hook will not foul in tying. Re-
member that the snell should be of the same size gut as the part of
the leader to which it is bent.
337 . A Dropper Fly Hitch. This holds the snell at right angles to
the leader and is particularly secure. Tie a Half Knot in the leader
and reeve the snell as indicated by the arrow. If wished, both ends
of the snell may be fitted to hooks. If only one hook is to be used, tie
an Overhand Knot in one end of the snell, draw it up close to the
leader, and trim the end short.
338 . A Dropper Fly Hitch, This is a very popular method by
which a dropper fly snell is attached to a leader. A Bowline (#1010)
or Angler’s Loop (#1017) is tied in the end of the snell, which is
then secured to the leader with a Long Running Hitch (#1858). So
that the hitch may be secure, it is tied around an Overhand Knot
(#515) which has been put in the leader for the purpose, or else it is
ut over one of the bends which join the several sections of the leader,
ometimes, instead of encompassing the knot, it is applied in front
of it in the same way as the two knots that are to follow. This ar-
rangement is strong and secure. It was shown to me by Ferris Greens-
let, who has found it one of the quickest and most practical of knots
to tie while fishing.
A knot attempted in the open, as the daylight is dimming and with
hands that are thoroughly chilled, will present difficulties that are not
apparent when the same knot is tied while sitting cozily before an
open fire in the clubhouse.
339 . The Double Overhand Knot (#516) is frequently used as a
Stopper Knot on a leader to prevent a Dropper Hitch from slipping.
It weakens the leader less than a Single Overhand Knot.
340 . A well-known knot for attaching a snell to the leader, which
seems bulkier than is necessary.
341 . This is neater than the last knot and is probably adequate, but
it would seem to me that the Ground Line Hitch (#277), which is
equally firm and much smaller, would be preferable. So far as I know,
however, it has not been tried out in gut.
342 . This one is from W. Keith Rollo. The Half Knot in the
leader holds the
pointing toward
Another way of attaching droppers is to reeve the knotted end of
a snell through one of the leader bends.
dropper at a most desirable angle, with the fly
the reel.
[55]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
343 . The Water Knot (#1412) utilized for this purpose is a bit
bulkier than the two that follow, and the ends depart from the knot
at such an angle that they are liable to snag on twigs or reeds, but the
knot is both secure and strong.
344 . The Englishman’s Knot (#1414) is the bend usually recom-
mended for the purpose, but it is apt to loosen around the snell and is
also liable to snag.
345 . The Barrel Knot (#1413) is the most secure of the three;
the ends have a better lead, and they may be trimmed quite close. In
the illustration a Figure-Eight Knot (#524) is shown at the end
of the dropper, instead of the Overhand (#515). But the Overhand
is preferable, being smaller and, when used in this way, is sufficiently
strong.
346 . A double snell may be clove hitched (#1773) above an Over-
hand Knot (#515) in the end of the leader. This is a salt-water prac-
tice.
347 . The familiar float or bob of the “pole” fisherman is secured
to the line with a Ring Hitch (#1859).
348 . A codfish sinker or lead is fitted with beckets at either end to
which the line is made fast.
Sinkers are made in an endless variety of shapes and are almost
always attached with Ring Hitches (#1859). A narrow strip of thin
sheet lead makes a good sinker. It is wrapped tightly around the line
and pinched with pliers to hold it in place. An old favorite with
anglers is a split bullet, which is tapped with a hammer to make it
pinch the line. These bullets are procurable in different sizes, and if
needed a number may be attached in a row.
349 . A bottom sinker may have a leather bridle or strap to which
the line is attached.
350 . A line may be tied directly to a lead plummet. A heavy lead
adds tremendously to the scope when casting.
351 . A svnvel-shaped lead. Excellent for both hand-line and rod
fishing.
“Fishing tackle” is an angler’s term not used by the professional
fisherman, who calls the appurtenances of his fishing gear. The only
tackle used at sea is an arrangement of blocks and rope required for
hoisting. The name is always pronounced taykle .
Gear and tackle alike have to be suited to the fish, and the diversity
of size and shape, appetite, and temperament of fish is amazing. There
is no need for a fisherman or an angler ever to become bored.
A number of years ago R. R. M. Carpenter, author of Game Trails ,
from Alaska to Africa (Scribner’s, 1939), said to me: “I hate to take
a chance on sailfish and tarpon. I’m afraid they’ll spoil me for trout
and salmon.” Fortunately, I was in a position to reassure him. “You
don’t need to worry about that. I find that I enjoy swordfishing now
just as much as I did before I went whaling.”
[56]
OCCUPATIONAL KNOTS
352 . This illustrates a small surface trawl, which in principle does
not differ from the large trawl of the professional fisherman. For an
amateur a 1 50-foot length will provide plenty of interest and sport.
The gangings (#276) should be about four feet apart, with ordinary
disk-shaped cork floats in between. Tie Overhand Knots (#515) at
each side of the floats. Every fourth line should be an anchor line
about twenty feet long. Set the trawl in a tideway, bait with squid or
any shiny fish, and visit it at each tide. If set from shore, only one
marker buoy is required, and the apparatus is termed a “trot.”
353 . A ground trawl is similarly made, with slingstones (#271-
273) between every three or four hooks. Markers are required at
the ends. Set at low water and pull at the next tide.
354 . Small Fishline Splice. Either ravel or unravel the ends of a
braided line with a pin or fishhook one half inch to one and one
quarter inches, depending on the size of the line. Divide the threads
of each end into three equal parts. Scrape each group to a point and
wax each point or strand thoroughly. Marry the two ends so that
the tips overlap the unraveled parts of the lines slightly, as shown in
the first illustration. Wax and middle a piece of fine silk thread. Tie
a Constrictor Knot (#1249) with the central section of it around
the center of the splice and draw the knot taut. Grip the right half
of the splice in a vise. Twist the left half of the splice strongly away
from you, and serve tightly toward you with one end of the silk
thread. Serve the whole end and then finish off as illustrated in the
lower diagram. Next turn the splice end for end and repeat the first
performance with the second end. The size of the thread is exagger-
ated in the illustrations. Some anglers consider it sufficient to lay the
two waxed and tapered ends together and serve without either mar-
rying or twisting. Finished splices should be varnished, but if made
in the open, and to be used at once, grease with bacon fat, butter, or
whatever else your lunch provides. A laid line may be spliced in the
same way, or else with a Sailor’s Splice (#2635), in which case the
strands must be opened for several inches before marrying so that they
can be threaded on needles, or else they can be tucked bv pulling the
ends through with a small hairpin.
355 . If double gangings with two hooks are used as shown in #352
they may be secured with a Constrictor Knot (#1249), which is
more secure than a Clove Hitch (# 1 177) or a Ring Hitch (#1859).
356 . There are many different traps devised for fishing through
the ice . The one given here is characteristic. It consists of a flat ex-
tensible spring at the top, with flag attached. When the flag flies high
a fish is indicated. Formerly there was no limit to the number of traps
allowed, and I have seen five hundred of them set at one time by
three fishermen in a Massachusetts pond. But now in the same locality
the limit is ten traps to the individual. The preferred baits are “shiner”
and “mummychog,” or “mumper.” Pickerel and red perch will make
up the bulk of the catch.
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
The Florist
357 . A Florist’s Knot: A parcel knot which does not slip, as the
Half Bowknot or Drawknot (#1211) does, but nevertheless re-
tains the loop for decorative purposes. This one is from Havana.
The Football Player
Laces his football as in $ 2036. He tightens the turns with a button-
hook.
The Fruiterer
358 . In the banana trade stalks are equipped with a short length
of rope yarn, secured to the stem with a strap or Bale Sling Hitch
( ^ 1 759), so forming a loop at the top of the bunch, which is really
the inverted bottom of the banana cluster.
359 . The ends of the sling or strap are tied together with an Over-
hand Bend (#1410).
360 . A lanyard of rope yarn, its length depending on the height of
the storage-room ceiling, is secured to a hook with Two Half
Hitches (#1781). The end should hang about shoulder-high.
361 . The Banana Knot. A series of three or four Stopper Knots
(Chapter 3) are tied in the lanyard from eight to twelve inches apart.
The usual knot consists of a Single Overhand with a Half Hitch
taken above it, as pictured. This is very much like the Pearl Knot
(#383). Sometimes Figure-Eight Knots (#520) are used instead.
362 . The Banana Hitch is an application of the Button and Eye
(#1925). A porter enters the storage loft, a bunch of bananas on his
right shoulder, with the knot end to the rear. He “eases” the bunch
forward from his shoulder, and as he does so he reeves one of the
lanyards through the loop at the end of the stalk. He allows the loop
to close above one of the knots, #361, which suspends the stalk at a
height above the reach of various pests. The porter holds the lanyard
taut until the loop has settled snugly around the neck of the knot.
These Banana Knots were shown to me by Edward W. Sherman.
The Gardener
363 . Espalier Knot. This draws a plant and its support together
and holds the adjustment without any bother while the knot is being
completed. It is convenient to tie after once being mastered. A length
of raffia is doubled, and a Ring or Bale Sling Hitch (#1694) ^
placed around both the branch or stem, and the trellis or wire, and is
then hove taut. A Double Half Knot (see the first diagram) is added
and pulled up to give the proper tension. One of the ends is then
hitched somewhat after the manner of a Butcher’s Knot (#183),
but the hitch is not superimposed on the knot already formed; in-
stead, it is closed around the neck of the Double Half Knot. The
knot may be tied in rope yarn or cord as well as raffia.
In bagging grapes, the Constrictor (#1249) works nicely, as the
snugness may be accurately gauged. To tie: See #176 under
“Blaster,” this chapter.
364 . To mend the garden hose when no wire couplings are handy,
take a stout piece of fishline about one eighth inch in diameter, tie
[58]
OCCUPATIONAL KNOTS
a Constrictor (#1249), place it around the hose, secure the ends
of the cord to the centers of two sticks, and pull as illustrated. A ten-
year-old boy can pull more effectively in this way than two strong
men can, each pulling an end against the other.
There is only one satisfactory way to coil rubber hose, and that
is with figure-eight turns, preferably flaked down as in #3109 or
#3110.
365 . The Crossing Knot should be employed in staking out newly
seeded areas of grass. Number 206 gives the method of tying this
knot.
The Hammock Maker
The type of hammock recently termed “Cape Ann” has been used
at sea for many years. I have an ancient one made of linen homespun
sailcloth. There are two knots used by the commercial hammock
makers in hitching to the eyelets, which are given elsewhere as Ring
Hitches #1832 and #1833. Neither is particularly secure. At sea,
hammock clews were made in several different ways, to be shown
later in Chapter 4 1 .
Very few net hammocks are now seen, and the old-fashioned
barrel-stave hammock appears to have almost vanished.
The Hangman
366 . The Hangman’s Knot. There are several knots recommended
tor this purpose, and there are several variations of the one given
here that may be found in the chapter on Nooses. But this knot of
eight turns appears to be the standard one, and it may be counted
upon to draw up smoothly and snugly when it fulfills its office. The
noose is always adjusted with the knot slightly below and immedi-
ately in back of the left ear. This is to provide the sidewise jerk,
which is one of the refinements of a successful hanging.
Hangings at sea were infrequent. Such an occasion furnished a bit
of extra-routine labor, in which the boatswain took especial pride,
and in which no bungling was tolerated. A boatswain’s reputation
would be forever ruined if there were any hitch on such an occasion.
Although most of the details were left to him, there were certain
well-established conventions which had to be observed. These are
given in detail in an old work on seamanship. A fall was led through
a single block at the fore yardarm and thence to a second single
block under the fore cap. Between the two blocks was a Yardarm
Knot (#1149), the upper bight of which was not half bitched , as is
customary, but was merely stopped with light twine. This stopping
would carry away the instant the knot was hauled against the block,
so spilling the Sheepshank. The weight at the noose end at once
dropped to take up the slack given by the spilled Sheepshank, and it
was brought up with a jerk by a toggle which fetched against the
yardarm block. The toggle was marlingspike hitched (#2030) and
seized to the rope at a point which allowed for an exact six-foot drop
outside the rail.
In preparation for this the fall was laid at length along the deck
“ready to be hurried aft” when “twenty stout fellows seized the
rope.”
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
The Horseman
The horseman should consult Chapter 24 (“Ring Hitches”) and
also the last two pages of Chapter 26 (“Miscellaneous Holdfasts”),
where a number of hitching posts are depicted. Other knots of inter-
est to him may be found under “Cowboy,” “Artilleryman,”
“Farmer,” and “Prospector” in this chapter. Number 2057 shows how
to tie up a horse’s tail when the going is muddy.
367. When a horse was to be hitched by a rein, the left rein was
left buckled to the bit ring and the other end was unbuckled and
rove through the opposite bit ring on the right side. I use the past
tense here, for I haven’t seen a horse tied in this way in many years.
Draft horses were sometimes hitched to a forward spoke, and a turn
of the reins was taken around the hub, so that if the horses bolted
the reins at once were pulled tight.
368. If a horse stood well, without hitching, the ends of the reins
often were merely clove hitched around the handle of the whip as it
stood upright in the whipsocket at the right side of the dasher, or
dashboard. Everything was right-hand drive in the horse-and-
carriage days.
369. A hitching weight was part of every doctor’s buggy equip-
ment. Generally it had a strap halter snapped to it, but if not, Two
Half Hitches in rope or rein would make it fast.
The House Fainter
See under “Carpenter” and “Steeplejack,” this chapter. Also con-
sult Chapter 27.
The Housewife
The housewife’s needs are so multifarious that the following group
of knots would seem inadequate but for the fact that most of her re-
quirements are not peculiar and most of what she requires is to be
found in the general classifications.
370. To hold the cork secure in a bottle, lay a piece of adhesive
tape over the cork and down each side, then take two turns with
another piece around themeck of the bottle.
371 . The same result may be reached with cord and a Constrictor
Knot (#1249). Cover the top with a piece of heavy paper or cloth
and tie a Constrictor close under the collar of the bottle.
372 . To hang up a broom or mop, file a rough groove around the
end of the stick and tie a Constrictor (#1249) in it, then knot the
ends of the cord together.
373. A Magnus or Rolling Hitch will suffice to tie a broom that
has no groove, provided the surface is not too slick.
374. A hot-water bottle may be hung up and drained in the way
illustrated. The same knot may be tied over a hook, in which case the
left side, as here pictured, will be the top of the knot.
375. A knot at the end of a pillow-lace bobbin, which will prevent
unwinding and at the same time allow easy removal.
[60]
OCCUPATIONAL KNOTS
376. A square knotting or macrame shuttle knot serves a similar
purpose.
In Chapter 28 (“Lashings and Slings”) parcel tying, a subject of
importance to the housewife, is discussed.
377. The proper way to secure a wire to a screw eye: Small gal-
vanized stovepipe wire is about the best picture wire; it is easier to
work, easier to cut, cheaper to buy, and less in evidence than other
wires.
378. The ordinary way of making a loop or securing the end of
a wire to a screw eye.
379. If there is a vibration from the outside that tilts all your pic-
tures askew, hang them from a single wire which passes through
both screw eyes and makes fast to two picture hooks.
380. When walls are of brick and the plaster is powdery, take a
half-inch board seven or eight inches wide and nearly as long as the
width of your picture. Place a hook near the center, pepper the sur-
face with small-wired brads, and drive them almost through the
board. Put the board in place and drive the brads home with as little
jar as possible. A “nail set” will help. This very practical method was
shown me by a friend who had employed it to hang a six-foot canvas.
381. The common way of knotting a simple bandage. Anything
more elaborate is generally fastened with adhesive tape.
382. A stubborn screw top on a jar may be started by winding a
number of turns of string around the top to provide a better hand-
hold. Elastic bands are even better, and adhesive tape will also serve
the purpose well.
The Jeweler
“R. L.,” of Tiffany and Company, very kindly supplied the
method of stringing pearls. I do not feel that I can improve on the
explicit instructions that were sent me, so I will quote them verbatim:
383. The Pearl Knot. “The knot itself is only a simple single
knot. There will be two, three, or four strands of silk, according to
the size of the pearls and their holes. The knots will be as numerous
as may be desired, sometimes one after each pearl, or after each five
or more pearls.
“Each knot is tied by putting the pearls that have been strung
through the loop [see second diagram], instead of the alternative of
pulling the free end of the silk through the loop each time. The pearls
on the string give weight in forming the loop, and thus make a better
knot than the free silk would do.
“At both ends, where the clasp and click are, the silk is knotted
back through the last pearl, so that the end of the silk is finally
knotted between pearls and not tied simply to the clasp and click.
“Larger knots often have to be made if the hole in the pearl is too
large for a single knot. These larger knots are made by knotting only
two strands of the three.” (See first diagram.)
384. This charming insect, made of knotted human hair, to serve
as a breast pin, is abstracted from a commercial catalogue of the mid-
nineteenth century, entitled Jeweller's Book of Patterns in Hairwork ,
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
Kite Flying
385. To tic the ribs of a kite together, the Transom Knot
(#1255), which is a modification of the Constrictor (#1249), will
serve nicely.
386. Tails on old-fashioned kites almost always had crossbands
called bobs designed to furnish aerial friction and so check the kite’s
tendency to dart here and there. For this purpose wads of paper are
usually tied at intervals; sometimes, on large kites, short sticks are
used instead. A cord or rope tail may have double loops added in the
manner given here. First make a series of Fire-Escape Knots (#564)
by the method that is given at the beginning of Chapter 4, then stick
a loop in each knot as indicated in the diagram given here.
387. Kite strings were generally wound up on a stick in this man-
ner, which is particularly adapted to wet or moist line. The turns are
loose and open so that the cord will dry out readily if the reel is
placed in a draft.
The Miller
388 . The Bag Knot (same as the Miller’s Knot (i), #1241).
389. The Sack Knot (same as the Miller’s Knot (2), #1242).
390. The Miller’s Knot (same as the Sack Knot #1243). The
names of these three knots are interchangeable. Many millers use a
round turn with the ends reef knotted or else secured with a Drawknot
or Half Bowknot. Some employ a Clove Hitch, slipped, which is
the least practical. Additional Bag Knots are given in Chapters 16 & 27.
The Constrictor Knot (#1249) is the securest of all; but it is not easily
untied unless a Slip Loop is added.
The Mountain Climber
These knots may also be of service to the bird nester and the tree
scaler. Additional knots of interest to the climber may be found
under “Steeplejack” and “Tree Surgeon” in this chapter.
I was once asked by an official of a mountain-climbing club to
recommend a knot that could be used by a man while climbing alone.
This necessitates a knot which can be spilled from below after the
climber has lowered himself from a higher level. The following knots
resulted.
391. The Precipice Knot is the Slippery Hitch with an Over-
hand Knot (#1606) added to the end.
The Slippery Hitch is the answer to the sailor’s favorite riddle for
landsmen: “How would you lower yourself over a precipice with a
rope that is just long enough to reach the ground, and then recover
your rope before proceeding?” All that is necessary is to select a
precipice with a convenient tree. When you have safely landed, flirt
the rope to free the hitched end.
This knot should be studied carefully, since other knots require
twice the length of rope; but it is no knot to trifle with. Unless the
climber has an innate understanding or feeling for knots, he had
better leave it alone.
[62]
OCCUPATIONAL KNOTS
392 . Heavy weights are sometimes let go with an Eye Splice and
a toggle. The method when applied to climbing requires an extra spill
line. There is no danger of jamming.
393 . If a rope is long enough, so that only half its length is re-
quired for the job, there are a number of Slipped Hitches that may
be used as climbing knots. This one is a modification of the Timber
Hitch. It can be made fast around a small cylindrical object, such as
a tree, a branch, or a post. The slipped loop should be nipped at the
top of the branch.
394 . A Slipped Half Hitch. The nip should be at the top opposite
the standing part.
395 . The same knot may be slipped a second time. (To slip a knot
is to reeve a bight for the final tuck instead of an end, so that the knot
may be untied by pulling on the end.) This hitch may be tied around
an object that is larger than #393 would be recommended for.
396 . A knot that may be tied around a cylinder of fair size such as
the branch of a tree. It is the most easily spilled of the knots that are
given.
397 . If the object to be tied to is large a Slipped Buntline Hitch
is a better knot than any of the foregoing. In tying any rope around
a jagged stone arrange the turns carefully and draw up snugly, with
the lead in exactly the direction in which the pull is to be exerted.
If a rope shifts while supporting a heavy weight a sharp edge may
easily cut a strand.
398 . A knot that is closely related to #397, is amply secure, and
spills smoothly.
399 . Here is a knot that may be tied close to the ground around a
clump of bushes and does not have to be drawn up snugly around
the object. A clump of bushes or grass is a treacherous thing to tie to,
for if either bends over enough to allow the rope to rise, a spill is
inevitable.
In all these knots allow a good margin of safety by sticking a long
slip loop. I do not like #392, although it is possibly the safest one for
a person who does not know his ropes. Numbers 393, 394, 395, and
396 should be tied around comparatively small objects. Number 398
has less tendency to jam than the others, is the most easily slipped,
and probably is the most satisfactory for tree climbing. Numbers 397
and 398 are perhaps the best all-around knots.
If you propose to trust your life to any knot, rehearse it a few
times in the back yard before going afield, aloft, or afloat with it. Tie
it carefully and deliberately, and add weight slowly. A knot is like
an egg; it is either good, or it is rotten. A single difference in the
“over-and-under” sequence will make a different knot out of any.
If you are not accustomed to reading graphics and are tying from a
diagram, have one or two friends with similar interests tie knots with
you. Between you, the truth will out.
The Musician
A violin, guitar, or banjo string may be tied with a Figure-Eight
Knot (#520). If the hole is large, the end may be doubled before
tying, as in #531. The Oysterman’s Knot (#526) is a neater one
for the purpose, but is more complicated to tie.
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
The Netmaker
400 . The Clove Hitch (# 1 177) is the customary knot with which
to tie the first tier of meshes to the headline of a net.
401. Sometimes a Cow Hitch (# 1 802 ) is used for the purpose.
402. The Mesh Knot, sometimes called the Fisherman’s Netting
Knot, is the ordinary way of tying the Sheet Bend when it is made
with a netting needle.
403. The Martha's Vineyard method of tying the same knot, or
rather the same knot mirrored (with the left and right sides reversed),
was first shown to me by F. Gilbert Hinsdale, who had seen it tied
by Captain James Look, of Chilmark. I afterwards learned it from
the latter’s brother. Captain Daniel C. Look, of Menemsha Bight. Al-
though somewhat more difficult to learn than the usual Mesh Knot,
it will prove much more rapid and exact when a little experience has
been gained.
After reaching the position shown in the third diagram, continue
to pull steadily on the needle while casting off the loop held by the
thumb. While still pulling steadily on the needle, gradually let go the
loop around the ring finger. When all material has been taken up,
cast off the remaining loop around the little finger and draw the knot
snugly against the spool. The spool regulates the size of the mesh.
The spool is also called a “gauge,” a “mesh,” and sometimes a “mesh
stick.”
The same method of netting is given by Caulfield and Saward and
also by De Dillmont, but with the fingers in somewhat different posi-
tion, which is probably better for lightweight thread and smaller
fingers.
Considerable has been written about netting from the needlework
standpoint, where it is often difficult to differentiate clearly between
netting and tatting, macrame and various other kinds of lacemaking.
Nets and seines are made in many different forms for different
conditions and different fish, but although the nets of different conti-
nents, countries, and localities show a diversity of form, the Mesh
Knot itself is universally the same. The various United States Gov-
ernment fishery and ethnological reports give a vast amount of in-
formation regarding all sorts of nets. These reports are always well
illustrated and are to be found in most public and college libraries.
The only monograph that I know concerning fishermen’s nets and
seines is Notes on Nets by the Honorable and Reverend Charles
Bathurst, LL.D., published in Cirencester about 1840 . It contains a
lot of practical information and also many quaint digressions, mainly
on natural history. The author discusses such unrelated subjects as
how to “clean the floor of a fishhouse,” “Unusual Structure of Cer-
vical Vertebre of a large Quadruped, found in a Boneyard,” “A ball
of Hair contained in a Horse’s Stomach,” and a “Tick that made a
raft of its own detached stomach.”
One interesting bit of information was: “Netting for fruit trees is
made I believe by machinery, ... I do not know that any other
nets have as yet been [so] made for general purposes. . . .”
The subject of netting will be referred to again in Chapter 41.
[64]
OCCUPATIONAL KNOTS
404. In fringe making, and in nets made of material too heavy for
the netting needle, reef knotting is sometimes resorted to.
405. This method is practiced with a needle. It results in a vertical
Reef Knot, where #404 is horizontal. A Reversed or Cow Hitch
is first tied, which is capsized into a Reef Knot by pulling, as shown
by arrows in the diagram.
406. Dip nets and drawnwork fringes for canvas sea-chest covers
may be tied with Double Overhand Knots.
The Nurse
407. Sometimes a delirious patient has to be spread-eagled to pre-
vent exhaustion from constant tossing. Strips of sheeting are tied to
the ankles and wrists. The other ends are made fast to the bedposts.
Almost invariably the knots are tied so that they tend to shut off cir-
culation and so add to the patient’s discomfort. The proper way to
tie is to make a smooth round turn about the wrist or ankle, and then
finish off with a Bowline (#10 10), close up, but not snug enough
to cause any constriction. This will neither bind nor work loose, yet
it is easily untied. For other knots of interest to the nurse see “House-
wife” and “Surgeon,” in this chapter, and “Tourniquets” in the
binder chapter.
The Packer
408. The Packer’s Knot will hold a parcel snugly while the cord
is being passed around a second dimension. It is also shown among
the Butcher’s Knots, where it has a Half Hitch added. Further
knots of interest to the packer will be found under “Prospector,”
“Florist,” and “Stationer” in this chapter, and also in Chapter 27,
“Occasional Knots,” and Chapter 28, “Lashings and Slings.”
The Poacher
409. The Poacher’s Knot is a noose used in snaring various game.
A little stockade is built across a spot where woodcock or partridge
are accustomed to pass. Usually it is disguised with a few leafed
twigs. There are frequent arched openings, and in each of these is
suspended a horsehair noose, lightly caught on the bark at the sides.
Birds of this sort will walk along until they find an opening and will
not fly unless startled.
410. “Springs” for larks are also fitted with horsehair nooses
hitched to a staked-out anchor line. This trap is heavily baited; the
former was not. Both Diderot (1762) and the Sportsman' s Dictionary
(1810) devote many pages to snaring, netting, and trapping birds
and game; everything from larks to woodcock and from bears and
wolves to mice is shown. Nooses were even suspended between trees
for birds to fly into at dusk. See also under “Shooting” and “Trap-
per,” this same chapter.
[65]
t tth
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
411 . A policeman's nippers , sometimes called funsters, after en-
circling a wrist, are adjusted to a close fit by twisting; the two han-
dles are brought together and held in the grip of one hand toggle-
fashion, with the cord leading from between the second and third
fingers. Formerly they were of rope, but nowadays they are more
often of chain.
412 . The Handcuff Knot. After adjustment around the wrists of
a culprit, the ends are half hitched around the neck of the loops (see
#1140). The Tom Fool’s Knot (#1141) has also been used for the
same purpose and in the same manner.
The Porter
413 . The Porter’s Knot consists of a loosely twisted grommet
made of a large bandanna or other cloth. It dissipates the weight of a
burden carried on the head so that even a novice can bear a difficult
load with assurance and without the need of a steadying hand.
First make a long left twist of the bandanna, and tie a large Right-
Handed Double or Threefold Overhand Knot somewhat larger
than the completed knot is to be. Continue to lay the material around
the knot, parallel with the established strands and constantly impart-
ing twist to the strand. Finally bury the ends between two leads,
which secures them.
There is another apparatus that also bears the name Porter’s Knot
which consists of either a rope or a long strip of cloth with the ends
tied together in a Reef Knot (#1204), the whole apparatus being
termed “Porter’s Knot.” It is or was placed by the porters of London
over their foreheads, and the loop which hung down the back helped
to support whatever load was carried. It was mentioned in Pills to
Purge Melancholy, by Thomas d’Urfey (1719). Much the same
method of transport is employed by North American Indians and
guides. A wide strap is used which is termed a tump or tote line or
rope.
The Prospector
414 . To make up a pack: The process of lashing a pack is described
at some length in Chapter 28, “Lashings and Slings.” The pack is
made up in a square canvas cover called a manta and is lashed with a
rope that is called a lair rope .
415 . A pack animal may be a donkey, mule, horse, camel, llama, or
elephant, but in our country a mule is preferred. The load is carried
either on a packsaddle, which is a piece of furniture resembling a
sawbuck, or on an aparejo, which is a heavy hay-stuffed pad, stiffened
along its bottom edges with wooden battens.
[ 66 ]
OCCUPATIONAL KNOTS
All authorities are agreed that the first thing to be done in pack
lashing is to blindfold the mule. This being attended to, the aparejo
is secured in place and the load temporarily slung with a “sling rope”
which holds the arrangement while the hitch is being “thrown” with
the “lash rope.”
416. The Double Diamond Hitch, also called the Diamond Hitch,
is a method of pack lashing used by the cowboy, the sheepherder,
and the hunter, as well as by the prospector. It is widely known
throughout the mountain country of both North and South America.
The Double Diamond is a lashing for two packs with an additional
riding load , the latter being a third object carried above the two
packs. There is a ring in one end of the cinch to which the lash rope
is either hitched or spliced. The lash rope is thrown over the mule’s
back by one packer, and the assistant passes it through the ring or
hook at the other end of the cinch, which has been passed under the
mule’s belly to receive it. The packers proceed to “throw” the rope
back and rorth, each making his contribution to the hitch, as indi-
cated in the drawings. There are various short cuts and refinements
to the process, and some minor variations to the hitch itself are al-
lowable. Different packers have different techniques. As each man
throws, he calls out in appropriate words to announce progress and
S are his fellow packer for the next movement. The calls vary with
rent packers. After the hitch is made it is tightened and the end
of the lash rope made fast with two or more Half Hitches. If there
is an extra length of rope left it is led elsewhere and “hitched” again.
There is a great variety of hitches. Some are tied by one man, some
by two. The Single and Double Diamond are shown here because
the names are familiar to almost everybody.
The War Department has issued a comprehensive bulletin on
packing, by H. W. Daly, of the Quartermasters Department (Docu-
ment 360). Charles W. Post, in Horse Tacking , has treated the subject
very thoroughly for the general public, and his book contains many
excellent illustrations.
Around animals in general, and on farms in particular, the word
hitch is used as a verb, which is contrary to sea usage. A horse is
hitched when he is tied up, and a rope is hitched when it is made fast.
Moreover, when a horse is harnessed to a vehicle he is “hitched up.”
I venture to say that before I started to write this book I never
used the words tie and hitch as verbs except in reference to men’s
neck apparel and trousers, from one year’s end to another, and the
verb hitch passed entirely out of my vocabulary until a pony was
added to the children’s livestock a few years ago. But I now use both
terms glibly, although I have been severely taken to task by several
longshore purists for my lapses in these directions.
[67]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
417 . The Single Diamond Hitch is for two packs with no riding
load. It will be seen in consulting the sketches that the rope in this
lashing forms a single diamond at the center top, and the previous
hitch, a double diamond, which of course explains the names.
The Quilter
In quilting, the layers of material are often tacked together with
strong twine, although much the nicer method is to stitch elaborate
patterns which are first chalked out or stenciled on the quilt. In the
more common method the needle, bearing several parallel cords, is
first shoved down and then is stuck up again about three sixteenths
of an inch to one side of and parallel to the first thrust. The ends are
then square knotted together and “cut off long.” A better practice,
which is often followed, is to tuft with colored yarns, much as the
upholsterer does (#483), but the knot used by the quilter is generally
a Square Knot.
The Rigger
Nowadays a house painter or a steeplejack may be listed in the tele-
phone directory as a rigger, but it is the ship rigger who is referred
to here. Seizings, wormings, whipping, marling, parceling, serving,
etc., are all to be found in Chapters 40 and 41, which deal with
marlingspike seamanship and other rigging practices. Rigger’s splices
are to be found in three chapters devoted exclusively to splicing, and
here and there throughout the chapters of practical knots are other
rigger’s knots. The several given here are peculiar to the rigger.
418 . In finishing off a seizing , the rigger brings the end up between
two turns, and if the material is small stuff he ties a Wall Knot;
if it is spun yarn he ties an Overhand Knot (#515).
419 . The Lanyard Knot is tied in the ends of shroud and stay lan-
yards, and is employed in setting up and securing standing rigging.
420 . A Figure-Eight Knot (#520) is tied wherever a temporary
stopper is needed and also near the ends of all running rigging, to pre-
vent unreeving.
421 . A Clove Hitch (#1177) is the Crossing Knot employed in
rattling do r um rigging. Ratlines are the rope steps found on shrouds,
by means of which the rigging is climbed.
In addition to the several knots that are illustrated here the rigger
uses a Bale Sling Hitch (#1759) for a variety of purposes; a Rope
Yarn Knot (#1480) is called for in serving, and a Half Hitch
Seized (#1717) and Two Half Hitches Seized (#1719) are old
rigger’s stand-bys. The Diamond Knot (#693) was formerly used in
jib-boom t ootropes. Among the general sailor knots, which constitute
the bulk of the material in this work, there are many knots for which
the rigger has occasional use. The Marlingspike Hitch (#2030) is
required constantly in tightening seizings and service.
[ 68 ]
OCCUPATIONAL KNOTS
The Rugmaker
422 . The Persian or Senna Knot. The second drawing shows the
knot with the pile trimmed.
423 . The Ghiordes or Turkish Knot. The second drawing shows
the knot with the pile trimmed.
The hooked rug is made by shoving a series of loops through the
coarse weave of heavy burlap with an instrument called a hook.
Sometimes hooked rugs have been trimmed in the manner of “Ori-
entals,” but since they are made from long, narrow strips of woven
fabric instead of yarn, the resemblance is not marked even when, as
I have sometimes seen, an Oriental pattern is copied.
The Rush-Seat Maker
424 . There is perhaps reason to include the rush-seat maker, since
the course of his rush in rounding a chair leg approximates the course
of a Figure-Eight Knot, actually taking a series of Belaying-Pin
Turns. Coarse marsh grass or rushes are twisted up by hand into long
yarns, while either green or wet. A long overlap is required where
rushes are joined, and the ends must be well hidden. When the two
side rungs or stretchers do not lie parallel two Figure-Eights are
taken each time the front legs are passed, while only one is taken at
the rear legs, until all parts are square. Extra rushes are laid along
the side bars between the layers of seating to provide padding to save
wear.
The Sailmaker
Curiously enough, the sailmaker does not use a great variety of
knots, although he is an inveterate splicer. The needle and palm and
a fid are his usual tools, and with them he does most of his work. The
Thumb Knot (#514) is employed constantly in the end of his
sewing thread; it is tied with either hand, but generally with the left.
425 . The Cringle is a knot required in most sails that is closely
related to splicing and may be tied in a number of different ways.
Several are shown in the chapter on odd splices. Formerly cringles
were made through the boltrope; nowadays they are made around
the boltrope, through eyelet holes in the sails.
Reef points were once knotted in, but nowadays they are sewed
to a sail. In racing sails they are generally omitted, lace lines being
substituted. Several methods of securing reef points are shown in
Chapter 4 1 .
There are a number of splices that are peculiar to the sailmaker:
the Taper Splice or Sailm aker’s Splice, the One-Strand or Sail-
maker’s Splice, the Backhanded or Left-Handed Eye Splice, etc.
These will be found in the chapters on splices, 34, 35, and 36.
Sailmaker’s palm and needle whipping is described as $3446 in
Chapter 40 on practical marlingspike seamanship. In Chapter 41,
on applied knots, a number of sailmaker’s stitches are given.
In making eyelets for cringles and reef points, a hole is stuck
through the canvas with a stabber, and grommets are laid around
the holes for reinforcement. These are closely stitched over and
Added out. The making of grommets is described as #2864 and
#2865 in the chapter on odd splices, 36.
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
The Seamstress
426. The seamstress as well as the sailmaker constantly employs
the Thumb Knot (#514), which is generally either a Single or a
Double Overhand Knot.
Girl and Boy Scouts
427. The Scout Coil is based on the Hangmans Knot (#366).
After the end is stuck through the left loop, the right loop is pulled
on until it is firm. A second tier of turns may be added and the
other end be stuck instead. Whichever loop is left is hooked to the
belt.
428 . A long rope may have Harness Loops (#329 or #1050) added
to assist in climbing.
429. The Girl Scout Hitch is in principle the same as the Binder
Knot (#220). It is designed to hold up the stocking. There are a
great many other knots throughout these pages that Scouts employ
constantly. They will be found listed according to their uses.
The fisherman’s litter (#283) is a bit of first-aid equipment that
every Scout should know. It consists of two poles or oars, a coil of
rope, and a bunch of seaweed.
The Ship-Model Maker
430. For seizings and whippings the Constrictor Knot (#1249)
is recommended. Wax a strong linen thread, tie the knot, draw
snugly, and trim short (see #344). Instead of whipping small lines
merely touch the tips with Duco cement.
To splice small lines : Thread the strands and thrust the needles
without attempting to open the lay (see Splice #2685).
To make small wire rope: Take two or three fine wires. Fasten
one set of ends in a vise and the other set in the chuck of a small
hand drill. Twist hard and rub well with the round shank of a screw
driver, while holding the rope taut.
To make small plain-laid rope: Take a large button having four
holes, a hand drill, and a .small fishline swivel. Secure three threads
to one end of the swivel, hold the swivel in a vise so that it will not
turn. Reeve each thread through one of the holes in the button, and
hold the button close to the swivel. Secure one strand in the hand
drill. Hold taut and turn the drill to add to the lay of the thread.
Count the number of turns made with the crank and, when twisted
sufficiently, keep it taut and make it fast. Repeat, giving the same
number of turns to the other two threads. Place the ends together
while holding them taut and secure them, or, better still, have some-
one else hold them. Hold the button in one hand, and adjust the vise
so that the swivel can turn. Keep the strands taut, and move the but-
ton away from the vise steadily to the other end. If the strands have
not been allowed to kink, the result should be a fair plain-laid rope.
For four-strand rope use all four holes in the button.
Make cable-laid rope in the same way, but with opposite twist,
using three of the ropes already made, or else three small twisted
fishlines.
OCCUPATIONAL KNOTS
Shooting , Camping , Hunting ,
431 . An Adjustable Hitch (#1799) on a tent rope is about as easy
to manipulate as a mechanical stake fastening and makes one thing
less to carry on a camping trip. It is the same as a Midshipman’s
Hitch.
432 . Pot Hitch: Drive a stake at an angle into the ground. Middle
a rope and tie a Clove Hitch near the top of the stake; lead the two
ends to well-separated trees. The pot is hung from a stub that has
been left near the top of the stake.
433 . This is a leash for three brace of hounds from Diderot’s En-
cyclopedia (1762). A is a Strap or Bale Sling Hitch (#1694); B
is a Loop Knot; C is an Eye Splice; and D is an Overhand Knot. A
number of leashes for house dogs may be found in Chapter 41 on
applied knots.
434 . A goose boot and hobble , shown to me by R. Eugene Ashley.
It is used in staking out live wild goose decoys, a practice no longer
legal in the United States. A goose picks continually at her fasten-
ings, so rawhide is used exclusively, and nothing that can be untied
wDl serve for a knot. The strap is first rove through the leather boot,
then the end C is rove through the slit B. Next the end A is stuck
through the slit C, which completes the boot end. The end A is then
rove through the iron ring, after which the slit A is opened up and
worked back over the ring, forming a Ring Hitch (# 1859). A stake
is driven into the ground through the ring, and around the top of the
stake is an iron hoop that is too large for the ring to pass. All this is
so much bother that the goose will be fed where she stands for the
whole shooting season unless there are spare decoys, in which case
they may be relieved from time to time.
435 . Generally a Bale Sling Hitch (#1694) in fishline or rope
yam is used on a short strap in hanging wild fowl by the neck or foot.
In camp the same straps are used over and over again.
436 . A live decoy duck has a leather foot strap or thong around her
leg that is similar to the goose hobble but is not so elaborate. Fre-
quently she is anchored with fishline only, which is tied with a
Strap Hitch precisely like #435. Nothing elaborate is needed, as a
decoy duck is generally quite content to paddle around in shallow
water for the few hours each day that are required of her. A short
fishline is secured to the leather strap, the other end of which is
fastened to an anchor, which may be a small stone, an old bolt or
spike, a broken harrow tooth, or a lead sinker. In sand-dune country
the anchor may even be a small bag of sand which is filled on the
spot. There is no flesh, only sinew, in the legs of fowl and conse-
quently no blood circulation, so contrivances of this sort cause little
discomfort; they appear much worse than they really are.
437 . 438 . After a day’s shooting, game often has to be carried by
the gunner for considerable distances. Small birds fit into the pockets,
but wild fowl are generally tied together, by the feet if few but by
the necks if the day has been a lucky one. Two knots are commonly
used for the purpose. The Clove Hitch (#1177) is easier to untie
than the Half Knot (#1212).
439 . A Deadeye or Lanyard Hitch ties readily to a forked stake
and as readily unties.
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
440. T o tump or tote a bear without ruffling the fur: Place a small
hardwood stick across the mouth, where the teeth will grip best,
generally in back of the two fangs, and lash the mouth tightly around
the snout and jaw with a Constrictor Knot (#1249). Lobster twine
is excellent for the purpose. Then loop a rope over the nose and
around the ends of the stick.
441. To secure game across a saddle: Middle a rope and make a
Clove Hitch (# 1177 ) around the pommel. Draw taut and make a
Clove Hitch around the neck, and, if the animal is small, take a
Marline Hitch (#2030) above the knees and make fast to the girth
ring. Secure the other end of the animal in the same manner, taking a
Clove Hitch around the small and a Marline Hitch above the hocks.
If the animal is small the hitches around pommel, knees, and hocks
may be omitted and the lashing secured to the rings of the girth only.
442. T o lash to a tote pole : Lay the pole along the belly and clove
hitch the legs together close above the knees and hocks. Lash the
animal to the pole, and secure the end with a Clove Hitch to any
convenient part.
443. A buck lashed “right side up”: This will keep the antlers from
snagging in the brush. Tote him “tail first.” Tie all four feet together,
clove hitch the dock to the pole, and lash each ham and shoulder
singly. Next lash the antlers, then neck, knees, feet, and hocks. Last,
pass stout turns around the lashings between the animal and the
pole, and seize any turns that show a tendency to work loose.
Marline or lobster cord makes a better lashing than rope, and is easier
to pack on a trip.
444, 445. In hanging large game , the Clove Hitch and Two Half
Hitches are commonly used. Sometimes a Clove Hitch is slipped
over a hock or foot (or feet), the other end is tossed over a high limb,
the animal is hauled aloft, and the end secured to a convenient
branch. Dressed game is usually hung by sharpened crossbars impaled
under the hamstrings.
The Skater
There is a club on the Wissahickon Creek named the “Philadelphia
Skating Club and Humane Society.” It has existed so long and so
much water -has passed down the stream since the club was founded
that it may no longer be the duty of each member to wear, around
his waist in skating season, a light knotted rope with which to rescue
careless and unfortunate fellow skaters. Nevertheless, to this day the
“Fire-Escape Knot” (#564), which appears to be the earlier name, is
often termed by our firemen the “Philadelphia Knot,” and it is, of
course, quite possible that it was some eminent and skate-minded
Philadelphian who first recognized the possibilities of this method
of tying the Overhand Knot (#51 5). But as the knot was tied in jib-
boom footropes at a much earlier date, the method probably belongs
to the sailor. It is described at the beginning of Chapter 4 just as I
learned it in Philadelphia thirty years ago, and the story that accom-
panies it was told to me by an octogenarian while sitting in the oriel
window of the Philadelphia Art Club.
OCCUPATIONAL KNOTS
The Skier
446 . A secure way to make fast a rawhide strap to a ski-pole handle.
Cut a slit in each end of the strap. Reeve one end through the hole in
the pole, and reeve the long right end through the slit in the left end.
Thrust a bight from the right side up through the slit in the right
end, and work the end down over the bight and continue down
over the head of the pole to a point below the hole. Then straighten
out all twists in the strap.
A comfortable
as #2039.
way in which to adjust ski-boot lacings is shown
The Snowshoer
447 . This shows a native Indian method of securing the moccasin
to a snowshoe. It was found in The Trapper's Guide issued by the
Oneida Colony of New York in the mid- 1 800s. The thong, after
securing the toe, passes around the ankle, where it is reef knotted.
The Stationer
448 . The Stationer’s Knot consists of a lashing that is finished
off with a Slipped Half Hitch.
The Steeplejack
The several knots to follow were provided by Laurie Young, a
widely known steeplejack of eastern Massachusetts. His written
description was illustrated with little sketches which are so graphic
that I have copied them without change.
449 . 450 , 451 . Steeple Sungs. Two slings are required in climbing
a steeple. They encircle the steeple, one above the other, and from
each depends a boatswain’s chair. The two slings are first put in
place from windows at the base of the spire, and a chair similar to a
boatswain’s is hooked to each. The steeplejack climbs to the upper
chair from the lower one. He unhooks the lower chair, draws it up,
and temporarily hooks it to the upper sling. He stands on the upper
chair, having taken the precaution to adjust his safety belt (#452) to
the upper sling. He unties the lower sling and with his two hands
swings it aloft to a level above the sling he is suspended from. He then
ties its two ends together. Some steeplejacks use the Reef Knot
(#1204) ^ or this purpose. Some have an Eye Splice in one end of the
sling to which they bend the other end with Two Half Hitches
(#1710). The upper sling being in place, the extra chair is lifted
and hooked to it, and then the steeplejack climbs again to the upper
chair and repeats what has just been described. Chair #450 is fitted
with a hook, but the second chair, $4 55 (on the following page), has
an eye instead of a hook and is suspended from the tackle that will
eventually be hooked to a strap and slung from the top of the steeple.
From this chair the steeplejack performs his allotted task, which may
be either a carpenter’s, a tinsmith’s, a slater’s, or a painter’s job.
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
452. Safety-Belt Hitch. After a steeple has been climbed, the
steeplejack’s life belt is secured to a separate life line by a knot that
is based on the Magnus or Rolling Hitch, but the Steeplejack’s
Knot has one more turn. It may easily be slid up and down the rope
with the hand, but if the steeplejack should fall it will not slip when
his weight falls on it.
453. The “One Hitch.” His job complete, the steeplejack makes
fast a double line to the steepletop in this manner and removes all
other gear from the steeple, then lowers himself by means of the
“One Hitch.” This is easily shaken down, after he has reached the
ground.
454. Flagpole Slings. With these a man works himself aloft ex-
actly as an inchworm progresses. First he stands on the foot sling
and hitches his chair sling up, then he sits down and lifts the foot
sling. Each sling has a Noose which passes around the pole.
455. A Boatswain’s Hitch is used by all trades that go aloft:
painters, ship riggers, steeplejacks, carpenters, and masons. A bight is
pulled forward under the eye seizing , and a half turn of the wrist
forms the Single Hitch required on the bill of the hook.
The Stevedore
456. The Stevedore Knot is a Single-Strand Stopper Knot tied
in the end of a rope to prevent unreeving.
457. The Double Cat’s-Paw is the most satisfactory knot to secure
slings to a cargo hook. Another twist may be added if desired.
458. Hogshead Slings. The left end is rove through a thimble eye,
forming a Noose; the right end is secured to the standing part with
Two Half Hitches. This is considered safer than can hooks foi
heavy casks.
459. To sling an open cask or barrel: Tie a large Overhand Knot
(#515) in the bight of the rope, lay the knot on the deck or ground,
arrange it as in the illustration, and place the barrel over the center
of it. Then bring up the ends and bend them together. This forms a
Marline Hitch (#3115) at each side of the cask. Another method is
to place the cask over the middle of the rope and tie a Half Knot
(#1202) across the top. Open the knot at the center and slip it
around the top of the cask. This forms Half Hitches at either side
of the cask which are perhaps not so secure as the former. A third
way is to place the cask over the center of the rope and then put an
independent Single Hitch (#1594) around the top with each end.
This is the way usually recommended. The two hitches should be
seized together.
The stevedore also uses the Sheepshank (#1153) for shortening
ropes, the Blackwall Hitch (#1875) for hoisting light goods, and
the Strap or Bale Sling Hitch (#1759) for slinging bales, crates,
boxes, and sacks. Small articles are hoisted in cargo nets. Further
stevedore’s practices are included in Chapter 28, “Lashings and
Slings.”
[74]
OCCUPATIONAL KNOTS
The Surgeon
Surgeons, like artists, have always seemed to me to belong to two
types. One, the nimble, intuitive mind, almost always is endowed
with light hands and sensitive fingers, while the other, the methodical,
reasoning mind, more often than not has heavy hands and clumsy
fingers. The former will almost always tie excellent knots, while the
latter, having no particular aptitude for them, is very apt to discount
their importance, in which case the Granny Knot is the best he
produces.
But the Granny Knot, although it has an initial tendency to slip,
seldom spills entirely, so, although slipping in the early stages after an
operation may aggravate bleeding, the common result of a poorly
tied knot that has slipped unduly is nothing more than an unsightly
and unnecessary scar. But too tight a knot, if there is inflammation,
may cause a stitch to tear out.
For over twenty years, when opportunity has offered, I have asked
surgeons to show me the knots they customarily tie. In this time I
have questioned nearly two hundred individuals. A small proportion
of these were physicians who also practiced surgery. Of all these
over seventy per cent tied the Granny Knot. Since every one of
them was glad to learn how to tie the Square Knot, it would seem
that there is an opportunity for the medical schools to hold more
classes in knot tying.
460. The Reef or Square Knot. This knot, used in tying a ligature,
is preferred by many surgeons to the one which follows.
461. The Ligature Knot is considered by some to use more gut
than can be readily absorbed in the tissues, but the initial Double
Half Knot is not apt to slip while the upper Half Knot is being
added. For that reason it would seem to be better than the Reef
Knot.
462 . Dr. C. W. Mayo, of the Mayo Clinic, Rochester, Minnesota,
has written me that he uses the accompanying knot in tying a cystic
duct, and also on all large blood vessels when ligature is necessary.
Two identical Half Knots are first tied, forming a Granny Knot.
This admits of a slight adjustment after the knot has been tied. When
the tension has been adjusted, a third and opposite Half Knot is
added, which locks the whole knot. The second and third Half
Knots, if considered as a unit, form a Square Knot.
463. The aseptic method of tying the Surgeon’s Knot was shown
to me by the late Dr. William C. Speakman, who learned it while
serving in France with our Expeditionary Force of 1918. The Reef
Knot (#460) may be tied in the same way.
464. The Granny Knot consists of two identical Half Knots,
the second being superimposed over the first.
Many surgeons tie three identical Half Knots, one on top of an-
other GRANNY-fashion, but even this is insufficient to fortify the
Granny.
In making a suture, if the gut breaks, leaving only a short end, do
not start over again but hold the end firmly and tie Knot #2005
around it. Then, with the bight of the standing part that is held in
one hand, add a Half Hitch over the end in the manner employed
for Butcher’s Knots (#183). This application of the hitch origi-
nated with Dr. Curtis C. Tripp.
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
Swings and Swinging
465 . To make fast a swing: The accompanying hitch is recom-
mended, as it stays in place and does not chafe against the crossbar
or limb.
466 . A better method is to splice the ends of rope to snap hooks
or sister hooks. These can be easily unhooked from the eye bolts and
stored in winter. With this treatment ropes may be made to last
several seasons.
467 . A large ring such as an old mast hoop should be taped a short
distance and the rope made fast with a Round Turn and Half Hitch
(#1718), which should be stoutly seized close to the hitch. A Clove
Hitch (#1670), well seized, will also serve.
468 . Tie a Loop Knot (#1046), with the surplus material, under
a swing seat. The height may be adjusted by this means, and^the loop
can be employed as a handgrip when swinging someone elpe.
An adjustable method of hanging a swing is pictured among the
Multi-Strand Stopper Knots as $726.
469 . A series of Standing Turk’s-Heads (#1282) may be tied for
handgrips on a climbing rope.
470 . A M anrope Knot ( H 847 ) may be added to finish off the end.
471 . A seat that will not teeter. The ends are secured with Bowline
Knots.
472 . This shows the ordinary notched swing seat. Other seats are
illustrated near the end of Chapter 41.
The Tailor
473 . The Thumb Knot. “This is the simplest [knot] of all and
it is used by Taylors [sic] at the end of their thread.” (From Emer-
son’s Principles of Mechanics , London, 1794.)
The Tennis Player
474 . I have found that a tennis net is more easily and nicely ad-
justed with a small tackle, consisting of small two-shiv galvanized
iron blocks and a small braided sash cord, than by any ratchet con-
trivance. No cleat is required for belaying. The end is hauled under
the next running part and jammed against the block, as #1996 or
#455. The method of making a tennis net is described as #3795.
The Tether ball Player
475 . To make a tetherball, stretch a piece of small-meshed netting
tightly over a tennis ball, and butt the rope against the ball. Split
the skirts of the net into three ribbons of equal width and length,
and splice these tightly into the whipped end of the rope, as in
Short Splice #2635. Parcel with rubber tape and serve the splice
tightly over with fishline.
The Theater
A great deal of rope and a trustworthy rigger are required in the
theater. Clamps are used for holding sets together, but ropes secured
to belaying pins hold them aloft.
[76]
OCCUPATIONAL KNOTS
Three-Legged Race
476. A Hobble Knot is less complicated than it appears. Two
round turns are taken with a strip of sheeting about a gentleman’s
leg, and then a Square Knot is added. Next, one round turn is taken
with each of the ends around a lady’s leg. One left leg and one right
leg are tied together in order that the contestants may face in the
same direction. Sometimes pads are added to prevent the knots from
chafing.
The Trapper
477. There are fourteen folio plates of snares, nets, pitfalls, dead-
falls, and traps in Diderot’s Encyclopedia. The snare illustrated here
is suitable for large game. A strong and resilient branch, longer than
is represented in the illustrations, is bent down in a semicircular arch
and its end placed against a smooth blazed spot on the trunk of an
adjacent tree. The adjustment is very delicate. At the slightest dis-
turbance of the rope the branch slips and straightens, jerking the
noose aloft, with the quarry dangling.
A South American lizard trap is illustrated as #2061.
The Tree Surgeon
478. There is unsuspected virtue in a few turns of line. A single
Round Turn on a branch will allow a man to lower several times his
own weight. The device is much simpler to manipulate than a tackle
but, of course, will not serve for hoisting.
479. The Timber Hitch unties readily and is one of the most
practical of hitches for slinging cylindrical objects.
480. 481. These are tree surgeon’s variations of the Magnus Hitch
(#1734). They work on the same principle as the Camel Hitch
(#215) and the steeplejack’s Safety-Belt Hitch (#452). All five
knots may be slid up and down with the hand, but they remain firm
under a pull on the standing part.
482. A loop in which the seat (#472) is slung.
The Upholsterer
483. The Tuft Knot. A length of strong twine is passed with a
long needle first down and then up through a mattress, the two
passages being about one eighth inch apart. A short piece of wicking
is placed in the loop that is left at the bottom and another between
the two ends at the top. Two Half Hitches are taken with one end
around the other, which is held straight. The latter is then pulled taut
and made fast with a Half Hitch exactly as described for a Butch-
er’s Knot (#183). Soft round leather patches are sometimes used
instead of tufts. These are notched at either edge.
484. Buttons are generally used on chairs and sofas instead of
wicking. A button is threaded on a length of twine, and the two
ends, being laid up, are put through the needle’s eye together. The
needle is next stuck up through the cushion, then one end of the
twine only is put through the top button. The end holding the top
button is held taut, and Two Half Hitches are taken with the free
end, which is then hauled taut and locked with a Half Hitch.
[77]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
The Weaver
There are many Weaver’s Knots, Some of them are the same in
form as other well-known bends, but, being differently tied, they
bear other names. The method of tying is the determining factor in
the Weaver’s Knot, just as another method of tying characterizes
the Butcher’s Knot. Practically all Weaver’s Knots are started by
holding the crossed ends of two yarns between the thumb and fore-
finger of the left hand. All that are shown here conform to this rule
until we come to #496, #497, and #500, which are used in springy
mohair yam, which requires a more secure knot than other yarns.
There is an astounding number of Weaver’s Knots, a great many
poor ones being used, but if a weaver can knot fast enough to turn
out the cloth without stopping the loom this will usually escape
notice unless his knots are so bulky as to affect the appearance of the
finished cloth.
In Irish homespun even Overhand Bend #1410 is tied. But in this
case the material is so rough in texture that the bunch formed by the
knot is not sufficiently apparent to be objectionable.
485 . The Weaver’s Knot shown here is the one usually tied in
woolen cloth, and is the knot published in reference books as the
“Weaver’s Knot.” In form it is the same as the Sheet Bend, but it
is tied in small material by weavers in a distinctive way that I have
seldom seen tied for any other purpose. If a weaver himself tied the
same formation in another way, the knot might bear another name.
Hold the ends in the left hand, as shown, and tie the knot with the
right hand. Pass a bight around the left end. The right end is then
stuck as indicated by the arrow in the right diagram and is held
under the left thumb while the knot is pulled snug.
486 . The Double Polish Knot was shown to me by Edward T.
Pierce.
487 . This knot is the same form as the Reef Knot, but the method
of tying is quite different. It was shown to me by Edward T. Pierce.
It is hardly a good knot, since the end is apt to catch or snag and
break the thread when passing through the reeds.
488 . The Double Weaver’s Knot was also furnished by Edward
T. Pierce. It is the same knot as the Double Sheet Bend (#1434).
Frequently it will pull up into the form here illustrated, which is
equally secure. When tying these knots, leave the ends somewhat
[78]
OCCUPATIONAL KNOTS
longer ttian those shown in the diagrams, as there is generally an
initial slip when a knot is drawn taut.
489. Another Double Weaver’s Knot from Edward T. Pierce.
The two ends in this knot lead in the same direction, which is an
excellent feature, as many threads are broken when the knots snag
in passing through the reeds. The end that makes the final tuck should
be held for a moment with the left thumb and finger while the knot
is drawn up by pulling the two standing parts.
490. The Bastard Weaver’s Knot was shown to me by Eugene
Harrington. In form it is identical with the Left-Hand Sheet Bend
(#1432), which probably accounts for its sinister name. As has been
elsewhere stated in several different connections, either a different
purpose or a different way of tying constitutes a different knot. This
form is inferior to the regular Right-Hand Sheet Bend (#1431), but
the method of tying makes it one of the quickest of knots to form,
which is a valuable feature.
491. The Double Bastard Weaver’s Knot, also provided by Eu-
gene Harrington, has the best lead of any Weaver’s Knot to be
shown as both ends turn backward.
492. The Left-Hand Sheet Bend was supplied by F. Gilbert Hins-
dale and is used in commercial lace manufacture. It can be very
quickly tied. Although not so secure as the Right-Hand Sheet Bend,
unless the thread or yarn is very slippery it is quite adequate. About
the two most important requirements of a Weaver’s Knot are these:
it should pass through the reeds easily, and it should be inconspicuous
in the finished cloth.
493. A Weaver’s Knot that is used in the manufacture of “band-
ing,” which is a small braided rope that is used in cotton manufacture
for small drives. It was shown to me by Charles R. Gidley. The ends
have an excellent lead.
It is seldom that a Weaver’s Knot is peculiar to a certain manu-
facture; it is more apt to be a characteristic of the individual weaver,
and weavers drift from one mill to another. But on the other hand,
an individual experienced in one branch of weaving is very apt to
confine himself to that branch.
Generally a knot is woven into the cloth soon after it is tied, and
in ordinary material a particularly firm knot is seldom required.
But mohair is a very slippery material, and special knots are
needed for mohair manufacture.
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
Mohair is the trade name for the wool or hair of the Angora goat,
which may on occasion be fully seventeen inches long. The yam is
both slick and springy, in the same way that piano wire is. There is
considerable variation in the material, depending on the variety of the
goats and the country in which they have been raised. In automobile
upholstery the coarsest wool or hair obtainable is required, and none
of the customary Weaver’s Knots will serve.
I was asked by the Collins and Aikman Corporation to find a mo-
hair knot that would not untie in modern fast-running machinery.
Manufacture had been speeded up to such an extent that several of
the old knots which had been adequate in slow-running machinery
could no longer be used. There is a jolt and jar to the modern mohair
looms that cause the common knots to untie and reuntie, and when
bulkier knots were used they snapped while being drawn through
the reeds. Sometimes a single break had to be repaired a dozen times
before the knot was finally woven into the fabric.
A satisfactory knot was found eventually, and a large proportion
of the piled mohair fabric now used in automobile upholstery is tied
with it. “One of the three commonest cars,” I am told, has used it
exclusively for five or more years.
Numbers 494, 495, and 501 are among the knots that were experi-
mented with.
494 . A compact knot that was based on the Harness Bend (#1474)
is shown here. It has a good lead and is more secure than the average
bend, but in mohair it slips appreciably before it finally nips.
495 . A Figure-Eight Knot was tied in one end around the other,
and was then spilled to engage the other end. The ends have a good
lead, and the knot is tied in an interesting way.
496 . The English Knot is an Angler’s Bend that is so bulky that
it either untied or broke after a few jolts in the loom.
[80]
OCCUPATIONAL KNOTS
497 . The English Knot with hitched ends is less liable to slip, but
is more apt to break.
498 . The Double English Knot is shown at the bottom of the
page. The ends of both the English Knot and the Double English
Knot have a bad lead, which resulted in many broken threads. More-
over, Knots #497-500 are all so bulky that, besides making weaving
difficult, they are much too evident in the finished cloth.
499 . The Double English Knot with the ends hitched. This knot
is ungainly and was probably not used except experimentally.
500 . For years the Mohair or Queensbury Knot has been the
standard knot for mohair manufacture. It is tied in a most ingenious
way. The two ends are brought together and joined in a Half Knot,
then they are laid alongside each other and tied in an Overhand
Bend (#1410) (also called Thumb Knot). The Half Knot (#1202)
spills into a Half Hitch as shown in the right upper diagram and
then slides up over the Overhand Bend.
It is a bulky knot that has to be woven into the cloth very slowly.
501 . An attempt was made to embody the best features of the last
knot in more compact form. The knot shown hardly seemed suffi-
ciently secure for mohair and was bothersome to tie. But it draws
together nicely in proper form when the two standing parts are
pulled on.
502 . A Mohair Knot that is strong and symmetrical, besides being
handsome and compact. It has too much initial slip and does not pull
up inevitably into proper form, an important requirement in a
Weaver’s Knot. This knot and also Knots #496-500 were shown to
me by Charles B. Rockwell.
A characteristic Weaver’s Knot is started by holding two crossed
ends between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand; it is then
tied by adding one or two turns and tucking one or both of the ends.
Few of the Mohair Knots, however, conform to these conventions.
[81 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
The Well Digger
503 . The Rolling Hitch (#1734) is made fast to a drilling cable
to support the drill, whenever it is necessary to overhaul the drum
end of the cable.
504. A Well-Pipe Hitch is used to lower a pipe or hoist one.
505 . A sling is wound around a well pipe in a way similar to the
last, and the bights are clapped together and hooked to the block.
A Mariner’s Splice (see pages 441 and 442) is indicated when a
Manila cable breaks.
The Whaleman
506 . The hitches . Years ago, when hemp and flax whale line were
used, a Seized Clove Hitch was made fast to a harpoon shank. The
name hitches is a survival from that time, but in recent years the
“ hitches ” consist of a Round Turn and Eye Splice.
507 . A Double Becket Hitch is always employed in bending the
line to the Eye Splice in the harpoon warp.
The W kipper
508 . A Double Overhand Knot (#516) tied in a cat-o’-nine-tails
is termed a Blood Knot; it may be double, treble, or even fourfold
and is designed to add to the discomforts of whipping. I have never
seen an actual Blood Knot. Five old nautical cats, two of them in
museums and the remainder in my own collection (see the frontis-
pieces), bear no knots. I have examined a more modern cat that was
used in the old jail at Newcastle, Delaware, and another in the Dela-
ware workhouse, and both of these were devoid of knots. A number
of museums have bag lanyards erroneously labeled “cats,” and some
of these have knotted ends. It is not difficult to tell the latter apart, as
bag lanyards have an even number of legs and a becket to hang up
by, while cats have an odd number of tails, generally nine, and the
handles are finished off with Knob Knots instead of eyes.
The British Mariner's V ocabulary (1801) says of cat- o' -nine -tails:
“Nine cords about half a yard long fixed upon a piece of thick rope
for a handle, having three knots on each at small intervals, nearest
one end.” According to the same authority a “Thieves’ Cat” was
heavier and the knots harder.
509. A Nine-Strand Sinnet Knot is described (#7 57) in the
chapter on Multi-Strand Lanyard Knots.
510 . A Three-Strand Matthew Walker Knot is described
among Multi-Strand Stopper Knots as #68 2.
511 . A Manrope Knot (#847) is described among the Multi-
Strand Buttons.
The Yachtsman
512 . The Half Bowknot or Drawknot: Most sailor’s knots have
been adopted by the yachtsman. This particular knot, however, is
peculiar to small pleasure craft; it is used in reefing, furling, and se-
curing sail covers.
513 . The Topsail Halyard Bend (#1679) is said to be a British
yachtsman’s knot. See also page 341.
CHAPTER 3: KNOB KNOTS. SINGLE-STRAND
STOPPER OR TERMINAL KNOTS
One knot in a Thread will stay the Needle's Passage as well as five
hundred . R. Bolton, 1633
The Single-Strand Stopper Knot is the first to be considered of
the several varieties of Knob Knots. Generally it is tied as a terminal
knot in the end of a rope, where it forms a knob or bunch, the general
purpose of which is to prevent unreeving. It is found in the ends of
running rigging. It secures the end of a sewing thread; it provides
a handhold or a foothold in bell ropes and footropes. It adds weight
to the end of a heaving line, and it is often employed decoratively,
but it should not be used to preve?it unlaying and fraying except
in small cord, twine, and the like, as a whipping is in every way pref-
erable for large and valuable material. The distinction between the
Single-Strand Stopper Knot and the Single-Strand Lanyard
Knot, which forms the next chapter, is an arbitrary one, and any
decorative Stopper Knot with a good lead may also serve as a Lan-
yard Knot, there being no fundamental structural difference between
the two. The way the knot is used has determined its classification,
and many of the knots belong equally in both classes. The purpose of
the Single-Strand Stopper Knot is almost always a practical one, but
the Lanyard Knot is commonly tied in the central part or bight of
a rope, and although it occasionally provides a hand- or foothold,
it is more apt to serve a decorative purpose.
One interesting feature of this classification is that the Lanyard
Knot, per se, is pushed from its own nest and relegated to the chapter
on Multi-Strand Stopper Knots!
In working the following knots a small pricker will prove the most
convenient tool.
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
514. The Overhand Knot, also called Simple, Single, Thumb,
Common, and Ordinary Knot, is the simplest of all knot forms and
is the point of departure for many of the more elaborate knots. It is
quite secure but very weak, reducing the strength of the rope in
which it is tied by perhaps as much as fifty per cent. It also jams and
is difficult to untie, often injuring the fiber. For these reasons it
should be tied only in small material that is not to be employed again,
and where there is considerable margin of strength.
The name Overhand Knot appears in Steel’s Elements & Practice
of Rigging , 1794. Formerly the knot was tied in square-sail reef points
which, after reeving through eyelet holes in the sail, were knotted
closely at either surface. It is the knot universally used in sewing
thread and twine, and riggers put it in the ends of spun-yarn seizings.
On jib-boom footropes the Overhand Knot is sometimes tied at
regular intervals to prevent feet from slipping, but except for this
single purpose it is seldom tied in rope at sea, as the Figure-Eight
Knot is both stronger and easier to untie.
Ashore the Overhand Knot is frequently employed to prevent
raveling and unreeving. Formerly carriage whips were hung up by
Overhand Knots, which were tied in the ends of the fly or snapper.
Its chief merit is its compactness. It is the smallest of all knots, and
expends the least material.
515. The name Thumb Knot is applied particularly when the knot
is tied by one hand, as it commonly is in sewing thread and twine.
The name with this meaning is given in Emerson’s Mechanics of 1794.
So tied, it may be either a Single or a Double Overhand Knot. A
loose round turn is made about the tip of the forefinger. When the
thumb is extended the end rolls through the turn once or twice. The
standing part of the thread is then pulled, and the knot is formed
under the nail of the second finger. The technique varies, however,
with the individual.
516. The Double Overhand Knot is called a Blood Knot when
used on a cat-o’-nine-tails, or on the snapper of an ox whip.
517. A Threefold Overhand Knot, or even a larger one, may be
tied, but beyond two turns the knot must be worked into shape, and
for that reason it may be considered more decorative than practical.
The French Knot is a Multiple Overhand tied over a needle in
embroidery.
If a very large knot of this description is wanted it may be found
easier first to tie in the usual way. Then add as many turns as desired
by wrapping the loop around the end, as here illustrated.
SINGLE-STRAND STOPPER OR TERMINAL KNOTS
518. An Overhand Knot, tied in a doubled end, makes a bulky
Stopper Knot that is sometimes put in the gut strings of a musical
instrument. In construction this knot does not differ from Loop Knot
#1009.
519. The Overhand Knot is repeated here as the basic knot for
another series of a different character, the second of this series being
the Figure-Eight Knot and the fourth the Stevedore Knot.
To make the Overhand Knot: First make a turn and then reeve
the end through the turn as pictured.
520. The Figure-Eight or Figure-of-Eight Knot is also called
(in books) the Flemish Knot. The name Figure-of-Eight Knot
appears in Lever’s Sheet Anchor; or, a Key to Rigging (London,
1808). The word of nowadays is usually omitted. The knot is the
sailor’s common Single-Strand Stopper Knot and is tied in the ends
of tackle falls and running rigging, unless the latter is fitted with
Monkey’s Tails. It is used about ship wherever a temporary Stopper
Knot is required. The Figure-Eight is much easier to untie than the
Overhand, it does not have the same tendency to jam and so injure
the fiber, and is larger, stronger, and equally secure.
To tie (for this series): Twist the bight pictured in the upper left
diagram (#519) a half turn to the left, and stick the end as pictured
here in the middle diagram.
521. An Intermediate Knot between the Figure-Eight Knot
and the Stevedore Knot (#522). Take the center diagram of the
Figure-Eight Knot and give it one additional half twist, then stick
the end as pictured. This knot is seldom seen, and when it is tied it is
generally by mistake, the intention having been to tie a Stevedore
Knot, which follows.
522. The Stevedore Knot prevents the end of a cargo fall from
unreeving; the cargo block, having larger shivs than the ordinary
tackle aboard ship, requires a bulky knot. The bight is given one more
half turn than in the former knot, before the end is finally stuck.
523. Double Figure-Eight Knot. There are several ways of
doubling the Figure-Eight Knot, this one being perhaps the one
most frequently seen. The number of racking turns may be increased
as desired. A more symmetrical Double Figure-Eight, that is a little
more complicated, will be found in the next chapter, on Single-
Strand Lanyard Knots.
1 85 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
524 . The Figure-Eight Knot has a single rim part, which passes
completely around the neck, and it has another single part at the top
which nips the end. The Oysterman’s Stopper (#526) has three
parts around the rim and one part at the top which nips the end. This
suggests a knot, between the two, with two rim parts, and with the
end nipped by a single top part.
525 . The “Tweenie” comes very near to filling these conditions,
having one top part and two rim parts, but the end is nipped by one
of the rim parts instead of the center part. It is nonetheless an excel-
lent knot, although the stem is a bit off center. I have not as yet found
a knot that precisely fills the gap between #524 and #526, but I do
not question there is one to be found. In the search several other knots
of interest have turned up, and several of them (#547, #548, and
# 549) are shown later in the chapter. ,
526 . The Oysterman’s Stopper. The discovery of this knot is
described in Chapter 1, page 7. It is a larger knot than the Figure-
Eight, which has but one part around the stem. The Oysterman’s
Stopper Knot has three rim parts, and these are quite symmetrical
when viewed from the underside. From this view it closely resembles
a Three-Strand Wall Knot. The end is nipped by a single top part.
It is easy to tie and practical to use when the hole that is to be filled
is too large for the Figure-Eight. Having reached the position of the
upper right diagram and the end being rove as indicated by the
arrow, the Half Knot shown near the end in the diagram must be
pulled very snug; next the end is pulled and finally the standing part.
Arrange the knot so that it is symmetrical as in the left and right
bottom sketches. The center bottom diagram is given merely to
show the over-and-under arrangement of the knot on a symmetrical
diagram form.
527 . The Quatrefoil: This knot is one of the steps in the series
beyond the Oysterman’s Stopper (#526). It has four rim parts and
one center part, which nips the end. To tie: Pin the end along the
diagram, tucking underneath where indicated, and work the knot
taut with a pricker.
528 . The Cinquefoil has five rim parts and a single center part
and is symmetrical and handsome, but, unless tied very carefully and
firmly, it tends to capsize and spill.
1
[ 86 ]
SINGLE-STRAND STOPPER OR TERMINAL KNOTS
529 . The Slip Knot is closely related to the Overhand Knot, the
difference between the two being in the treatment of the end. In the
former the end is doubled before it is finally tucked. To untie, all that
is required is a smart pull on the end of the rope, which withdraws
the loop and causes the knot to spill instantly. A Slip Knot may be
tied in the bight as readily as in the end, but the load must be on the
standing part of the knot only. It is used wherever the necessity to
cast off suddenly may arise.
Carpenters tie it in the end of a weighted sash cord before the sash
is put in place. It is also used in adjusting a plumb bob.
In chandleries it is tied in the ends of wicks, and after the wax has
hardened the knot is untied before removing the candle from the
mold.
The Slip Knot is given in Moore’s British Mariner's Vocabulary ,
1801. The name has been loosely applied to a number of other un-
related knots.
530 . A Figure-Eight Knot may be slipped in the same manner as
the above. This is about as easy to tie as a Slip Knot and is larger and
much less prone to jam.
531 . A Figure-Eight Knot tied in the doubled end makes a
strong, bulky knot for a violin string, which may be needed if the
hole has been much worn. It is larger than #518, which is also used
for the purpose.
The same knot may be tied in the bight of a line, and either or both
ends may be pulled, but the pull should not be on both ends unless the
two parts have a parallel lead.
532 - A Harness Loop (see also #1050). If a stopper is required in
the bight of a line where the pull may come from either direction, this
knot will serve the purpose satisfactorily.
533 . This Loop Knot, which is #1055 of Chapter 1 1, may be used
in the same way. It is more secure than the foregoing and is, in con-
sequence, a little harder to untie.
In putting any of the knots in this chapter to work, if the hole is
much larger than the rope, the use of a washer is advisable.
fHE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
534. The Monkey’s Tail is a permanent or semipermanent stopper
that is put in the bight as well as the end. It is also called Single
Throat Seizing, Seized Round Turn, Clinch, and Pigtail. It is
found, about ten feet from the ends, In running rigging. The purpose
is to prevent unreeving at the racks or fair-leaders, which are seized
in the shrouds seven or eight feet above deck. A small round turn is
first taken, and a Throat Seizing (#3404), in length about a quarter
of the round of the clinch, is put in.
The Monkey’s Tail is preferred for the purpose just described
because it does less damage to rope than any knot. When the Mon-
key’s Tail fetches against the rack the seizing takes the burden.
535. The Norfolk-to-Washington Boat Heaving Line Knot.
The Heaving Line Knot is the least standardized of all knots. Every
ferry boat and excursion steamer has its own version or interpreta-
tion. The purpose of the knot is to carry a light line ashore, by means
of which hawsers are passed to the wharf. If the hawsers are very
long and heavy, occasionally there is an intermediate line to be hauled
first, which is larger than the heaving line, but smaller than the
hawser.
The knot should be bulky enough to be plainly seen and heavy
enough to carry the end of the heaving line well in advance of the
coil when it is tossed, but it should not be heavy enough or hard
enough to injure the wharf rat who catches it. Many knot tiers
“load” their knots with sheet lead, lead foil, tinfoil “marbles,” shot,
or round stones. But there is a definite sporting limit to the weight
that is considered good form.
The sample given here is about the simplest form of the knot. Two
layers of sheet lead are wound around the standing part of the rope,
and this is covered by the series of turns. The turns are hove taut and
the end finished off with an Overhand Knot (#515) or the end may
be taken back to the standing part and spliced into it (see right-hand
illustration).
536. The Heaving Line Lanyard. The best way to rig a heaving
line is with a lanyard. The lanyard should be larger than the heaving
line and about four feet long. It is spliced into the bosom of the
hawser eye, being tucked whole, three times, over and under
(#2831). The other end of the lanyard has an Eye Splice to which
the heaving line is bent with a Becket Hitch. If the heaving line is
bent directly to the hawser it is difficult to unbend it after the hawser
eye is around a pile.
537. The Heaving Line Knot is exposed to excessive wear, and
the best practice is to side-splice the end into the neck of the knot
(#2826) as the splice will hold the turns in place much better than
a knot. The turns are put on as snugly as possible.
538. This particular Heaving Line Knot is based on the well-
known Hangman’s Knot, and is perhaps the most common of all.
The number of turns taken is optional, depending somewhat on the
size of the ship.
539. Martha’s Vineyard Boat Heaving Line Knot: Start with
three round turns. Pass the end around the top turns and under its
own part, and wind or round back snugly the full length of the knot.
At the bottom, stick the end through the three original turns. Then,
SINGLE-STRAND STOPPER OR TERMINAL KNOTS
to make the knot symmetrical, stick the standing part through the
same three turns in the reverse direction. Haul all taut, side-splice the
end to the stem, and soak the knot in rigging tar.
540 . There are numerous variations of this somewhat slovenly but
very bulky Heaving Line Knot which has a small coil for its base.
Make the coil of three turns, and knot as shown in the first illustra-
tion. Round down snugly to the end of the coil, and stick the end as
illustrated. Draw taut as possible with a marlingspike, and finally
side-splice the end to the stem. Weight with sheet lead if desired.
541 . An Over-and-Under Heaving Line Knot. Make an S turn
in the rope, and tuck the end of the rope through the bight at the bot-
tom of the standing part. Lead the end to the right, alternately over
and under the three parts of the S, until sufficient length has been
made. When the number of “over” parts is a multiple or three, work
the knot snug and splice the end to the standing part.
542 . The Monkey’s Fist. This has always been the standard Heav-
ing Line Knot of the square-rigger. Apparently it was first pictured
by E. N. Little in Log Book Notes (1889). It was described by Dr.
Cyrus L. Day in 1935. Take a piece of fifteen-thread stuff for the
heaving line. Hold the working end with the thumb in the palm of
the left hand, and with fingers separated a little, make two round
turns about the hand and lay the working end back between the tips
of the second and third fingers. Reeve the end to the front again,
between the roots of the second and third fingers, and make two
frapping turns around the original turns (the second one above the
first). Remove the structure from the hand, and put on the final two
turns as shown in the first and third diagrams. Tied in the way de-
scribed, this knot may be worked into a compact ball, but it usually
has a core, being tied around a ball of tea lead, a round beach pebble,
or one of the cook’s dumplings. If loaded in this way, three or even
four turns are taken for each cycle, instead of the two turns described.
In completing the knot the end is side-spliced to the standing part
one foot from the knot, after which two seizings are put on, one at
the end of the splice, the other at the neck of the knot. For additional
discussion of the Monkey’s Fist consult Chapter 29.
543 . The Doughnut, and Knot #541, are my contribution to this
series of knots. The Doughnut was first published in Sea Stories
Magazine in 1925. If desired, a narrow ribbon or tape of sheet lead
may be served around the original coil of three or six turns before
adding the service turns. In small material and without the sheet lead,
the knot will serve a useful purpose about the house on the ends of
jury shade cords and preventer electric-light pulls.
To tie, make a small coil of three or six round turns, which may be
covered for convenience with adhesive tape. Then serve snugly as
shown. Pack the turns tightly together, and haul them taut. Tuck the
end as shown, and side-splice it to the stem.
544 . The Mauretania Knot is a loaded Turk’s-Head. A Three-
Bight, Four-Part Turk’s-Head is tied as in #1311. The knot should
be doubled or tripled, and a large marble or small stone inserted, be-
fore working taut. Splice the end to the standing part one foot from
the knot, and seize tw ice as already described for $542.
[89]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
545. The smaller Turk’s-Heads, with a little adaptation, may he
converted into Stopper Knots, and, since the lead is correct at both
end and standing part, they also make handsome Lanyard Knots
appropriate for the next chapter. Turk's-Heads are very decorative
and, if well worked, are quite practical, when anything so large is
needed. This one is based on the Four-Bight, Three-Lead Turk’s-
Head described as #1305 in Chapter 17. The ends are arranged as
pictured. These Turk’s-Head Knots are found on Chinese lantern
cords, and they are sometimes used as Terminal Knots on dress and
hat trimmings. They may be doubled if wished, in which case follow
the lead of the dotted line for the second circuit, and finish off as the
solid line.
546. The Three-Bight, Four-Lead Turk's-Head (# 1311 ) maybe
utilized in the same way. The method of tying a knot over a diagram
of this sort is described more fully as #128 in Chapter 1 . Lav the
diagram over a cork board, or else over an upholstered chair seat. Pir
the cord at frequent intervals along the diagram, tucking the working
end underneath a part encountered at any point that is marked 'with
a circle. Use a pricker and work the knot tight, taking care not to
distort it at any time.
547. The next few knots are the ones mentioned on page 86 . They
were by-products of the series given on that page, but are no less in-
teresting than those already shown. Although made with only one
cord, this knot resembles superficially a Two-Strand Diamond Knot
of two bights.
548. The stem of the accompanying knot is rimmed by two sym-
metrical parts, and the end is nipped by a single top part, but there are
two top parts instead of one, which bars the knot from the previous
series.
549. The knot alongside conforms to all the arbitrary conditions
that were listed on page 86 . But each of the two rim parts encircles
the neck a complete turn , after the manner of the Matthew
Walker, so that its appearance denies relationship to the rest of the
SINGLE-STRAND STOPPER OR TERMINAL KNOTS
series. Although a good knot, it requires considerable working and
is too elaborate to be considered a practical one.
550. All the conditions referred to are fulfilled in this example.
There are two rim parts and only one top part; the end is nipped
under the top part; and the knot is pleasing. But it easily distorts un-
less it is doubled. If, however, it is doubled, it is distinctive and hand-
some and not too difficult to tie. Half of the knot pictured in the
diagram is merely the second parallel circuit.
551. Although the knot pictured here appears very simple after
those that have just been considered, if it is not tied very carefully
it tends to capsize into one of several forms; but once it is tied prop-
erly and drawn up carefully it will hold its shape. First make an
Overhand Knot, then lead the end as shown by the arrow, which
will form another overhand through the first one. Draw up both
ends at the same time, pulling slowly with both hands, and working
the knot wherever it is necessary.
552. The Double Oysterman’s Knot. This is an outgrowth of
the Oysterman’s Stopper Knot (#526) and it has a completely
doubled rim of three leads while the top center part still remains
single.
553. This knot is closely related to the last one. Superficially, the
only difference is that the center part is double, where in the former
it was single. For this reason perhaps it is more truly a Double Oys-
terman’s Knot than the last.
554. A decorative Terminal Knot that is both individual and
handsome.
The knots on this, and the preceding page, although they will serve
nicely as practical knots after having once been made, are too
elaborate to be tied unless they are to remain as fixtures.
Some of the illustrations on the next page might be called Stopper
Knot substitutes, or perhaps they might better be called Mechanical
Stoppers.
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
555 . Button molds and buttons have for years been used by boys
on their top strings. At sea in the time of Lever, 1 808, a rope was rove
through the pinhole of a block shiv and was used to haul on cables
and hawsers, one or two Half Hitches being taken around the rope.
This practice is illustrated among hitches for lengthwise pull
(#1772).
556 . Ashore, a bead or button is often found on the end of an
electric-light pull. On catboats and other small open boats, the same
thing, but larger, is to be found on the end of the centerboard pend-
ant. In the latter case, a knot is countersunk into a wooden knob.
557. A small hickory toggle , inserted in the bunghole, is employed
at sea when hoisting empty casks.
558. An iron one is used in hoisting water, gas, and oil tanks, where
the large size of the manhole makes a wooden one impractical.
559. The Marlingspike Hitch is tied in the manner shown here
and makes an excellent temporary stopper.
560. The smallest practical Stopper Knot is made by taking one 01
more threads, yarns, or strands from the end of a piece of cordage
and tying with it a Single Marline Hitch around the rest of the end,
just as one strand of a Double Matthew Walker Knot is led.
561. An iron ring makes a practical stopper. It will prevent un-
reeving and, if wished, it can be secured by dropping it over any
projection such as a nail or peg. It is easily put in the bight of a rope
by first reeving the bight through the ring and then reeving the ring
through the bight, which forms a Ring or Bale Sling Hitch
(#1859). It is the common stopper for a window-shade cord.
562. Hawse block or plug. The hawse pipes or holes are usually
stoppered at sea to prevent water coming inboard, particularly on a
vessel that is not equipped with a “manger” with which to catch the
water at the bows as it runs in and to hold it until the lift of the ship
allows it to run out again. The block has a Spritsail Sheet Knot on
the outside, and a short piece of rope is doubled to form an eye on the
inside. The block having been driven into the pipe with a mallet from
the outside, a wedge or fid is driven through the eye on the inside,
which holds the contrivance secure. Similar plugs are used with
scuppers that are not provided with flaps to keep the water out.
These have lanyards attached to the outsides, by which the plugs are
recovered when driven out.
563 . No scuttle butt was to be found on a whaler. Water was
bailed out of a large cask through the bunghole with an attenuated
tin pail called a “thief,” which held little over a cupful. The object of
this was to husband water. The cask was lashed, bung up, to the ship’s
lash rail. The “thief” remained inside the cask and was attached to the
bung by a lanyard and knot. There was also a cup to drink from,
When water was scarce the cup was kept at the masthead, and any
man who wanted water badly enough could go aloft and get it. When
he was through, he had to take the cup aloft again. He was not al-
lowed to pass it to another; each man had to make his own trip, or
else go thirsty.
z&.
CHAPTER 4: KNOB KNOTS. SINGLE-STRAND
LANYARD KNOTS
Jib Horses are knotted with an Overhand Knot at the distance of
every Yard. David Steel: Seamanship and Rigging , 1794
There was, once upon a time, a sailor who had a sweetheart. The
girl was beautiful, and the sailor was handsome— so the girl thought.
But her father disliked all sailors, this one in particular, which may
have been because he had another husband already picked out for her,
a certain haberdasher’s clerk, who had really very little to recommend
him save that he managed to keep both feet on solid earth most of the
time. That, as everybody knows, is too much to expect of a sailor.
But the girl found the haberdasher’s clerk even less prepossessing
than her father found our hero.
When the father saw which way the wind was blowing he pleaded
with the girl, then he threatened and even stormed for a bit; but it
was to no avail, and the ship of True Love was practically on the
rocks.
But after a while the storm quieted down, as storms will. Al-
though the father remained obdurate, which means stubborn, the
girl too was stubborn, which means that she was her father’s daughter.
But the haberdasher’s clerk, although almost entirely devoid of
charm, was endowed with a certain native cleverness, and it was not
long before he thought of a plan which he communicated to the
father. Thereupon the father appeared to relent, and soon after he
suggested to his daughter that the selection of a husband should be
decided in fair competition.
Amid general rejoicing it was agreed that the suitor who could tie
the greater number of knots, while the father counted fifty, should
marry the girl.
Now the father had argued to himself in somewhat this fashion:
“Surely this haberdasher’s clerk who does little from morning till
night, save knot ribbons and tie up parcels, should have no trouble
in besting this tarry-fingered son of a sea cook.” But the girl needed
no one to tell her that her Jack would win, by a long sea mile.
[ 93 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
On the appointed day and hour the father commenced his count,
and with nimble fingers the haberdasher’s clerk tied Overhand Knot
after Overhand Knot, with such celerity and precision that a doubt
arose in the minds of the spectators whether his piece of string would
be long enough to last the full count of fifty.
In the meantime our hero, with apparent unconcern, and so de-
liberately that it was maddening to watch, proceeded to cast one
hitch after another over his left thumb. “Forty-two, forty-three,
forty-four,” counted the father; the race was practically over with-
out a single knot having been chalked up to the credit of Neptune.
The father was jubilant and had his blessing all ready. The poor girl
was in tears, the haberdasher’s clerk appeared even smugger than
he had been before, but Jack remained calm as calm should be.
“Forty-five, forty-six”— the hitches completely covered his thumb.
“Forty-seven!” Our hero carefully tucked the lower end of his string
up through the center of the tier of hitches (which he had by now
shifted from his thumb). “Forty-eight! Forty-nine!” He pulled the
end through handsomely ! (See Glossary for definition of hand-
somely .) “FIFTY!” There on his string blossomed a hundred little
flowerlike knots, all neatly spaced and exactly alike!
The race was won; the haberdasher’s clerk was ignominiously de-
feated. There was nothing left for him to do but slink back to his
shop and hide behind the counter; and there, so far as we know, he
lurks to this day with his bit of string in one hand and his yardstick
under his arm.
This bit of spun yarn, as you have guessed, is a fragment of the
folklore of the sea. The Fire-Escape Knot, on which it so happily
hinges, belongs to the family of Single-Strand Lanyard Knots and
is the first to be described in the present chapter. If there are any who
would like to emulate our hero’s feat they may auickly learn to do
so (so far as the mere tying of knots is concern by carefully fol-
lowing directions to be found nere and also later in Chapter 33 .
A sailor has little opportunity at sea to replace an article that is lost
overboard, so knotted lanyards are attached to everything movable
that is carried aloft: marlingspikes and fids, paint cans and slush
buckets, pencils, eyeglasses, hats, snuffboxes, jackknives, tobacco and
money pouches, amulets, bosuns’ whistles, watches, binoculars, pipes
and keys, are all made fast around the neck, shoulder, or wrist, or
else are attached to a buttonhole, belt, or suspender.
There is one physical characteristic required of a decorative Lan-
yard Knot that is not required of a Stopper Knot. To be symmet-
rical the rope must enter and leave at opposite ends of the knot.
564. The Fire-Escape or Philadelphia Knot is tied at sea in jib-
boom footropes. A series of Single Hitches is first built up, one on
top of another, each succeeding hitch being slightly larger than the
previous one. Then the lower end of the rope is rove up through
the center of all the hitches and is pulled out, one hitch at a time.
This forms a series or chain of Single Overhand Knots which is of
assistance in lowering oneself hand over hand. Country and seaside
hotel fire escapes are often so equipped.
565. A chain of Figure-Eight Knots is tied in a similar manner.
566. A Multiple Overhand Knot may be tied with any number
of tucks. Small knots may be drawn up by pulling on the two ends,
but larger ones must be worked.
Take the large bight at the right side of the left diagram and,
beginning at the top, wind it downward to the left; this exhausts the
SINGLE-STRAND LANYARD KNOTS
original turns and replaces them with a series of left-hand turns that
will all appear on the surface.
567. A Bead Knot. A while ago my daughter Phoebe, then aged
seven, brought me this knot, which she had discovered for herself.
It consists of a Right Half Knot superimposed over the bight side
of a Right Overhand Knot.
568. A Multiple Figure-Eight Knot is made by winding a series
of turns around the standing part and then pulling the end up through
these turns with a wire loop, after they have been arranged as shown
in the right diagram.
569. 570. The basic knots for twist braid (or plat) are the Over-
hand Knot (#569) and the Figure-Eight Knot (#570). By giving
the loop at the bottom an extra half twist and tucking the end once,
the two plats may be lengthened. Each additional hair twist and tuck
adds a total of three bights to the two sides of the knot.
571. With an Overhand Knot as a base, to tie a Double-Twist
Braid Knot: Plat alternately over and under, disentangling the work-
ing end from time to time until the lower end is again on the right
side. To double this knot, withdraw the end from the last tuck and
lead it to the right over one, as in the center diagram, then to the left
under two and over one, and to the right under two and over one,
which brings the end to the right top. Pass the end to the left under
the upper end. Then tuck downward over two and under two alter-
nately to the bottom.
572. With a Figure-Eight Knot for a base, to tie a Double-Twist
Braid Knot, any section of which is the same as Five-Strand Flat
Sinnet: Make a Single-Twist Braid Knot with the lower end on
the left side as in #569 and #570. Then tuck as shown by the single
line in the diagram, upward under one and over two until the left
top is reached. Cross underneath the whole structure to the right,
then tuck downward as shown, over two and under two, to the
bottom. The finished knot is the same as #573 (right diagram), ex-
cept that it has nine bights on each side. The two knots just given
may be lengthened further if wished.
573. A direct method of tying a Five-Lead, Flat-Sinnet, Ter-
minal Knot in which the ends are diagonally opposite each other:
Arrange the cord as in the left diagram and proceed to plat or braid.
Bring the outside left strand over two strands to the center, then
bring the outside right strand over two parts to the center. A knot is
completed every time the end is brought over two strands, from the
right to the left and tucked down at the center.
574. A direct method of tying a Five-Lead, Flat-Sinnet, Termi-
nal Knot in which the two ends are on the same side of the knot:
Arrange the cord as in the left diagram, and plat as directed for the
last knot. A knot is completed every time the working end is brought
over two strands, from the left to the right, and tucked down at the
center.
575. It will be noted by consulting the five diagrams at the top of
this page that the center one is an “impossible” one. The present knot
tied by another method shows how that knot would appear if it were
possible to tie it.
576. A Flat Lanyard Knot based on Five-Strand French Sinnet.
Make a Clove Hitch, and arrange the strands as in the left diagram.
Plat as French Sinnet, employing the two loops and lower end
only. A knot is completed each time the end strand has made a
diagonal crossing to either side.
[ 95 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
577. A Three-Ply Knot superficially resembles the Matthew
Walker Knot after it has been drawn up evenly and tautly.
578. A Four-Ply Knot superficially resembles the Lanyard Knot.
Tie with small right turns, and bring the working end at the conclu-
sion of each turn up through all previous turns. Work out surplus
material methodically.
579. A Double Three-Ply Knot superficially resembles a Two-
Strand Matthew Walker Knot. Tie a Right Overhand Knot, and
tuck as indicated by the arrow. The surplus cord from the inner turns
must be worked out of the knot gradually and firmly before the ends
are pulled on.
580. A Long Three-Ply Knot is not so difficult to tie as might
appear. Make a Double Right Overhand Knot, and tuck it as shown
in the first diagram. Work it fairly snug so that it resembles the upper
right diagram. Next wind the two bights from the right end to the
left end as illustrated in the second and third diagrams. The surplus
material must now be worked out from “end to end” until the knot
resembles the final diagram.
581. A knot which superficially resembles a Double Wall Knot
requires considerable gentling before it takes its final shape, undis-
torted and perfectly symmetrical. The knot follows the general dia-
gram of the Three-Ply Knot (# 577 ). In one place the lead is de-
flected so that the ends may come out opposite each other to form
a Lanyard Knot. When the knot is completed, the ends are half
knotted (as shown) before they are brought to the surface. When
well drawn up the knot is both handsome and firm. It would make
a practical Stopper Knot, but is somewhat overelaborate.
There are several knots among the Monkey’s Fists of Chapter 29
that will serve as Single-Cord Lanyard Knots and are quite distinc-
tive. It will be found possible to lead the two ends of a Monkey’s
Fist from the interior of the knot in such a way that they will be
opposite each other when they appear on the surface.
In Peru, the ancient Incas used Overhand and Multiple Over-
hand Knots in their account records, termed qmpus. A series of lan-
yards depended from a ground line, and a chain or series of Over-
hand Knots was tied in each lanyard. It is presumed that each turn in
[96]
SINGLE-STRAND LANYARD KNOTS
a knot signified one digit and that the position of a knot on the cord
decided its decimal value. The Figure-Eight Knot also appears in
these records.
582. A simple Lanyard Knot based on the Figure-Eight makes a
nice little knot for decorating a black silk eyeglass cord, and, besides
acting as decoration, the series of knots will serve the purpose of pre-
venting the cord’s slipping through the fingers. The remaining knots
on this page are original.
583. A symmetrical and somewhat larger knot, that will serve a
similar purpose, draws up easily and inevitably. Knots of this descrip-
tion do not have to be crowded closely together, like beads on a lan-
yard, in order to present a decorative effect. A space between them
equal to three or more times the length of the knot is not too great.
When tying, start with a Noose and after drawing that up quite
snugly reeve the end through it as pictured. Keep in mind that there
are two ways of tying the Noose, left and right, and whichever you
start with continue to use unless you have a reason for alternating the
knots, which does not appear necessary in this case. Tie the knot
tightly, using a steel bodkin or stiletto for a tool.
584. The knots immediately to follow on this page resulted from
an attempt to reproduce the appearance of the Chinese Crown Knot
(# 8 o 8 ) while employing only one strand. This particular knot re-
quires considerable prodding. But after working and tightening with
the bodkin it will gradually assume the desired shape shown at the
left and right. It tends to distort under pull. An interesting feature of
the knot is that its basic construction is identical with #575 of this
chapter. It is worked differently in the two cases, and must be com-
pletely loosened before it can be perverted into the other form.
585. A knot was finally produced that holds its shape under pull
and has the crown on one of its faces, but the remaining faces are not
particularly decorative.
586. A One-Cord Knot, in form similar to the small Two-Strand
Butterfly, is easily produced. It has the crowned shape at the center
with the addition of two close bights at the right and left. The bights
may be extended if wished, but the knot will be insecure.
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
587. A Two-Plane Knot, with a crown center and four marginal
loops tied in a single cord. The next three knots resemble the
Chinese Butterfly Knot of Chapter 31, but the true Butterfly
Knots require two cords. These are tied by a method already de-
scribed in Chapter 1 (#128) and more fully discussed in the next
chapter. The upper left diagram should be carefully copied about
twice the present size, and the paper laid out on a cork board with
pins or tacks placed where small crosses are marked. One end of the
cord (preferably banding) should be attached to a pin at the feather
end of the arrow and the cord led around the diagram line, rounding
each pin in proper turn. Whenever another part of the cord is en-
countered at a point that is marked with a circle, the working end
is tucked underneath the part encountered; at all other points the end
is led over.
The knots of this and the following page must be drawn up very
gradually. Tying the first three knots shown on this page may be
facilitated if the two outer lines of the four sides of the diagram are
tightened in pairs, the upper pair being worked to the left away from
the looped end, the left pair next, and so on around the knot, in the
same manner. It will be noted that the knot will resolve itself into two
planes of similar aspect. When it has been drawn fairly snug there
will be a large loop at each corner. These loops may be gradually
worked out so the knot will resemble the final drawing at the right,
or they may be left prominent as in the Chinese Knots of Chapter
31. Work the knot from end to end, each time in a direction the
reverse of the last. Remove the surplus cord gradually, without dis-
torting the knot at any time.
588. A Rectangular Knot is worked exactly as described for the
last, except that there are four additional horizontal lines across the
center. These should be tightened in pairs in regular order.
589. Except that this knot is larger, it presents no new problem.
The final drawing at the right is the back side of the working diagram
at the left. For the sake of a better lead the ends have been given an
additional tuck, through one of the rim bights, which is not present
in the previous two knots.
[98]
SINGLE-STRAND LANYARD KNOTS
590. A circular diagram gives a knot of somewhat different aspect
on the two faces. The forms are really the same, but on one side the
crosslines are vertical and horizontal, while on the other side they are
diagonal. Tie or project the knot as directed for the others, but draw
up one part only at a time, as this knot does not lend itself to working
two opposite parts together.
591. A Pentagon in Two Planes. The surface, instead of present-
ing a regular over-one-and-under-one texture, is tied over two and
under two. The method by which this knot is formed is similar to
Chain Knot #34, which is tied in a straight line, but this is tied in a
circle.
Beginning at the base, lay a loop in the end of your cord upward
to the right, and thrust a similar loop at half length through the first
one, from the right upward to the left. Thrust a similar loop horizon-
tally from the right to the left through both of the others. Reeve the
(single) end through the last two loops laid down, lead it round the
neck of the first-laid loop (from bottom to top) and back parallel
with its own part to the outside of the knot. Lead the single end
through the two last-laid loops then over the two first-laid loops.
Thrust the working end down, and lead back under the two first-
laid loops and then through the two last-laid loops, parallel with its
own part, to the outside again. Finally tuck the end through the knot
as indicated by the arrow, and then work the knot taut.
592. A Rectangular Two-Plane Lanyard Knot of one strand.
This is a practical knot which at first presented many difficulties. All
elaborate knots of this and other sorts were first projected with pencil
and paper, or else on a slate, before they could ever be committed to
cord.
Tie the knot by the method given at the top of page 98 and draw
up carefully and gradually.
593. This knot, tied by the same method, makes a Circle in Two
Planes. In general, it may be said that the larger the knot the greater
the care that must be taken in drawing it up. But this is not always
so. Some knots have to be forced the whole way; others, apparently
of their own volition, take their proper form almost inevitably.
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
594. A Three-Bight Turk’s-Head of any width may serve as a
Lanyard Knot. The cord ends emerge at opposite ends of the knot
and cross each other as pictured. One end is led over the other and is
then rove through the center to the bottom of the knot; the other
end is brought out to the surface from under two parts.
The knot is shown here tied by the method elaborated upon in the
two previous pages, but several ways of tying a Three-Bight Turk’s-
Head are given in Chapter 17, which may be found more expeditious,
595. A Two-Bight Turk’s-Head Lanyard Knot with an odd
number of leads. Take a soda-fountain straw, or make yourself a
small tube of a tight roll of paper by pasting the edges down. Stick
one end of the cord through the tube. Take the long end that is left
outside, and wind it in a helix downward at a 45-degree angle, to
the right as pictured. When the desired length is reached wind it
upward to the right at an equal and opposite angle, all crossings being
over . Having crossed the first diagonal near the upper rim of the tube,
lead the cord downward again in a third diagonal (being careful not
to cross the parallel cord); all crossings up to this point are over. Now
turn up at the bottom to make a fourth diagonal, but this time tuck
under the first opposing diagonal, over the second, and so alternately
to the top, where the last tuck will be under the part that was first
turned down. A section of this is Four-Strand Round (or Square)
Sinnet (#2994), with one strand acting as a core.
596 . Monkey Chain Lanyard Knot (#2868). This is the chain
stitch of crochet and is often seen on window-shade pulls. Follow the
diagrams, work the knot taut, and when long enough reeve the end
as in the second diagram, instead of a loop, for the final tuck.
597. A Trumpet Cord or Double Monkey Chain Lanyard Knot.
Start this carefully by laying out the end as in the first diagram.
Thereafter a series of loops are thrust each one through the two
previous loops. When the knot is long enough the end is rove instead
of a loop. Trumpet Cord is also shown elsewhere as #2871.
598. A Square Loop Sinnet Lanyard Knot. Make a Noose Knot
as in the left upper diagram, and reeve a short bight through it as
shown by the arrow in the first diagram. Reeve another short bight
as shown in the second diagram, and then draw up the standing end
snugly as in the third diagram. Lead the working end around in a
right circle, tucking a short bight down through each loop in turn
and tightening the loop as soon as a bight has been thrust through it
by pulling the material into the opposite loop. Keep the sinnet snug
as you progress. When the knot is long enough reeve an end instead
of a loop twice in succession (through one loop from each side).
Work the two ends fair, and they will be found identical.
[ 100 ']
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CHAPTER 5: KNOB KNOTS. SINGLE-STRAND
BUTTON KNOTS
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Pray you , undo this Button . . .
William Shakespeare
The Single-Strand Button is a third type of Knob Knot, in
which the working end leaves the knot at the neck, parallel with the
standing part, so that the two parts, or ends, together form a stem.
The lay of the two ends is the same, and the knot is symmetrical
throughout.
There is but one symmetrical Chinese Button or Pajama Knot
(#599). There is another, larger Chinese Button (#604), but it is
not symmetrical, the two ends being off center and not parallel with
each other. The first of these is the prototype for the knots of the
present chapter.
599 . The Chinese Button Knot is worn throughout China on
underwear and night clothes. Buttons of this sort are more comfort-
able to lie on and to rest against than common bone and composition
buttons, and they cannot be broken even by the laundry.
A Chinese tailor ties the knot without guide, flat on his table. But
one may be more quickly and easily tied in hand by a modification
of the sailor’s method of tying his Knife Lanyard Knot (#787).
The two knots are tied alike, but they are worked differently.
To tie the button: Take a piece of banding about three feet long,
middle it, and lay it across the left hand as pictured. Take the end
from the back of the hand and make a right turn around the tip
of the left thumb. Bend the left thumb and hold the turn against
the standing part of the cord. Take the left end and tuck it to the
right, under the first end and then to the left under the upper center
part of the knot. The knot should now have a regular over-one-and-
under-one sequence throughout.
Still keeping the knot in hand, tuck both ends under the rim and
up through the center compartment of the knot as pictured in the
third diagram.
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[ IOI ]
%•
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
Remove the knot from the hand, turn it completely over, and
allow the two ends to hang down between the two middle fingers
of the left hand as drawn in the fifth diagram. Work out the surplus
material of the loop without distorting the knot and arrange it to co-
incide with the large diagram of Knot #600.
In making Knot #602 by the Knife Lanyard method, the final
tuck is rove differently, as shown in the diagram.
There is a certain knack to be acquired in working these knots,
but with a little perseverance there should be no real difficulty. My
daughter Phoebe, at the age of six, without assistance, made a set of
four of these buttons for my painting coat, and after four years I
am still wearing them.
There are several other well-known knots that are occasionally
employed as buttons, among them the Monkey’s Fist (#542) and
the smaller Turk’s-Heads of Chapter 17. The latter, tied in leather
over molds, are commonly found on sport coats.
There is a close resemblance in diagram form between the Three-
Lead, Four-Bight Turk’s-Head and the Chinese Button. This re-
semblance is particularly evident in #601.
I found that by altering the lines of two opposite sides of the
center or end compartment, so that they cross each other at the
center, any Four-Bight Turk’s-Head diagram can be utilized for
tying a Button Knot. With slight modification the Three-Bight
Turk’s-Heads can also be adapted. But a Five-Bight Turk’s-Head
is too large and a Two-Bight Turk’s-Head too small at the center
to be wholly practical.
Turk’s-Heads of more than five leads are too wide to make satis-
factory pellet-shaped knots, but they lend themselves to vertical
“cattail” forms.
Some of the first Button, as well as the first Monkey’s Fist, dia-
grams to be experimented with were drawn with soft lead pencil
on tennis balls, but the method was unhandy. I tried projecting them
on a slate, with three- and four-sided planes, and the method proved
more practical.
Eventually I found that any symmetrical design that was made
with a single line that crossed itself but once at any point, forming
planes of three and four sides only, and that had a crossing at the
center, was a potential diagram for a Button Knot. Not all such
diagrams, however, produced successful knots.
After a promising diagram had once been secured it often hap-
pened that it could be molded into two or even several different
forms. That is, the final shapes, except in a few cases, were not
necessarily inevitable. Certain forms that were searched for proved
elusive, while other forms were easily found and frequently were
duplicated, sometimes by quite different diagrams.
To assist in tying knots of a single strand that have a regular over-
one-and-under-one weave, I have used a system that is not difficult
to work and if followed methodically will tie the most complicated
knot. This has already been referred to in Chapter 1. The single line
of such a knot has an arrowhead at one end and a feather at the
other to indicate the direction in which the cord is to be laid. After
an enlarged working copy of the diagram has been made, the cord
[ 102 1
SINGLE-STRAND BUTTON KNOTS
is pinned at the feather end of the diagram or else it is tucked down
through a hole in the diagram at that point. The working end is then
led along the line of the arrow and pinned at frequent intervals.
Every time another part of the cord is crossed at a point that is
marked with a circle, the working end is tucked under that part; at
all other crossings the cord is led over .
Many of the diagrams are numbered along the line of the arrow,
every second crossing being numbered in regular numerical sequence.
A knot so numbered is tied in the following manner: the cord is
pinned at the feather end and then at i, 2, 3, 4, 5, etc. Whenever any
number that has a circle drawn around it is reached in its proper
sequence , the working end is tucked under the part that lies across
its path.
The point and feather of the arrow indicate where the ends drop
down at the center of the knot to form the stem. In certain of these
knots there will be found an irregularity at the centers in the over-
and-under sequence, owing to the fact that the cord is led at this
point out of one cycle into another, somewhat in the manner of the
Monkey’s Fist (#2201).
600 . A knot having been tied on the diagram by the method de-
scribed, proceed to work out the surplus material. Keep the knot
flat, as in the second diagram on the page, until it has been drawn
fairly snug, then continue to tighten, allowing the rim to close down-
ward in “mushroom” or “umbrella” form. Finally, using a pricker,
work the rim tightly and evenly around the stem. At this point
the top surface of the knot will probably resemble the right (fin-
ished) diagram for Knot #602. The reason for this is that the top
center part of the present knot has retreated from the surface. This
should now be forcibly pricked to the surface and the surrounding
parts tightened to hola it in place. This is the final form of the com-
mon Chinese Button Knot. By counting, it will be found that the
knot has nine surface parts.
601 . The Chinese Button is often doubled, to make a larger knot.
The lead for this is indicated by arrows in the lower center diagram
of #600. Either one or both ends may be tucked parallel with the
existing lead to make a Two- or Three-Ply (double or triple) Knot.
In a double knot it is unnecessary to prick up the top center part, as
it is supported by parts that cross underneath.
In tying these knots, the Chinese employ either a silk cord or else
a thin, compact roll of the material of the garment. This is strongly
sewed and the seam carefully hidden on the underside when the
knot is tied.
602 . If the final tuck of the ends is the same as in the Knife
Lanyard Knot (#787), a handsome Eight-Part Button results,
that, so far as I know, has not been utilized by the Chinese.
603 . This Eight-Part Knot may also be doubled. As the two ends
have different cycles, both ends must be tucked each time a new
ply is added to the knot. The illustration shows a Double or Two-
Ply Knot, which may be doubled either as suggested by the solid
arrow or by the dotted arrow in #602.
[ 103 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
6*7
In working these knots the best tool is a pricker (#91). Lacking
this, a dull ice pick or a meat skewer will serve. A cork board (see
#99 and #126) is the best table top on which to pin a diagram,
but a soft pine board or an upholstered chair seat is a practical
substitute.
The word part is used in reference to each appearance of the cord
on the surface of the knot.
The working diagrams represent the top elevation of a knot. Gen-
erally the finished aspect of a knot is also shown. Where the side
of a knot is pictured, the stem or two ends are also shown.
“Working” a knot is apt to be more difficult than tying one, but
once you have acquired the “feel” of the cord, working a knot, with
its attendant prodding and molding, twisting and pulling, will have
lost most of its difficulties.
In removing the slack cord from a knot, which is about all there
is to working a knot, do not at any time distort the diagram form
beyond recognition. Too strong a pull is apt to be fatal. One part at
a time should be tightened, ana then only by a slight amount. Use
the fingers at first, but as the knot hardens employ the pricker. Work
back and forth through the knot from one end of the cord to the
other, drawing a little on each part until the desired firmness is
achieved.
Many of these knots may be doubled or tripled, but the larger
ones are generally big enough without addition and not only may
lose some of their distinctive form but are apt to become flabby
when enlarged too much.
A cord does not cross itself until it passes a point a second time,
so a circle marked around a point is disregarded the first time it is
passed.
604. There is a second Chinese Button, the sole merit of which
is its larger size. Although it has a regular over-one-and-under-one
texture, it is not symmetrical because the two ends leave the knot
at right angles to each other and at a tangent with the surface of the
knot.
605. A Two-Bight, One-Lead Turk’s-Head is the smallest
Turk’s-Head form that can be adapted to tie a button. In its
simplest form this makes an Overhand Knot, but if the center part
is pricked to the surface, as in Knot #600, this makes a small but
distinctive button.
606. A Two-Bight, Two-Lead Turk’s-Head diagram makes a
slightly larger knot, but one that is a little difficult to draw up into
proper form.
The smaller examples of many kinds of knot are far from being the
easiest to tie.
[ 104 ]
SINGLE-STRAND BUTTON KNOTS
607. A Three-Lead, Two-Bight Turk’s-Head makes a more
practical knot for the basis of a button than the two previous ones,
the two-bight series being on the whole unsatisfactory.
608. A Button Knot that is based on a triangular Turk’s-Head
diagram of four leads and three bights. It is not possible with a
three-bight circumference to make a button that is wholly sym-
metrical at the center. But by careful working the knot can be made
to be approximately regular.
609. This knot with a six-bight rim and a three-bight center is
not a Turk’s-Head form. It makes a satisfactory pellet-shaped knot.
A six-part neck is about the practical limit in size for a Single-Strand
Button, as a larger one does not close snugly around the two-strand
stem. This knot is shown doubled.
610. A four-by-four pellet-shaped knot does not have a regular
over-one-and-under-one sequence. It is based on a Four-Bight by
Five-Lead Turk’s-Head, but at the center it has an over-two lead,
which gives it the appearance of a One-Strand, Four-Lead by Four-
Bight Turk’s-Head, which is an “impossible” knot.
611. A six-lead by four-bight diagram is about the limit in size
for a pellet-shaped Button Knot. But it may either be molded into
a flat or “cattail” form if preferred.
612. A Five-Lead by Three-Bight Turk’s-Head diagram tied in
cat-tail form appears to be more practical than a Three-Bight Knot
tied in pellet form.
613. A Cattail Knot of any length, a section of which is Four-
Strand Round or Square Sinnet. After the desired length is reached
the two strands are rove back through the center, the full length
of the sinnet. To make: Start as in the first diagram. Having reached
the position of the second diagram, take the outside right strand in
hand, bring it around the back and up between the two opposing
strands, and then down to the center and below its sister strand. Next
take the outside left strand in hand, bring it around back and up
between the opposing two strands, and then down to the center
below its sister strand. Continue to alternate these two moves until
the desired length is reached. Work the loop exactly as if it were
two separate strands, and disentangle the two ends as often as neces-
sary. At any time that the two ends are equal, a knot may be com-
pleted by reeving the ends up through the center of the sinnet. The
material of the loop is then worked out and the knot worked snug.
The twist braids of page 485 will make excellent decorative but-
tons for the ends of shutters, lamps, and shade pulls.
[ 105 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
614. A cattail of any length, a cross section of which is Eight-
Strand Round Sinnet. Take a stick of wood that is one inch square,
and cut four notches in the centers of the edges at one end. Make
a notch on each of the four edges, one half inch down from the
end. Make four more notches one inch below the first four notches,
and continue at one-inch intervals until the desired length is reached.
Four notches to the row are illustrated here. Drive a tack into two
opposite notches at the upper end and also four tacks into the four
bottom notches. Middle a cord and lay it across the end in the un-
tacked notches. Lead the two ends in a 45-degree right helix to the
bottom, round the proper tacks, and lead the ends over all in a 45-
degree right helix to the top. Round a top tack with each strand,
lead the two ends over all down in a right 45-degree helix, and
round the remaining two tacks. Now lead one end upward, tucking
underneath the first strand encountered. Do likewise with the other
end. Then tuck both ends alternately over and under to the top,
when they will appear as in the right diagram. Finally, tuck both
ends down through the center of the knot as indicated with the
arrow, remove the stick, and draw up into cattail form.
615. A Toggle- or T-Shaped Knot. This is based on an Eight-
Lead, Three-Bight Turk’s-Head. The ends depart from the knot at
the center length. Tie by the method described on page 102. When
finishing this knot the center part must be pricked to the surface as
in Knot # 600.
616. A Toggle-Shaped Knot may be tied with any even number
of leads that is not divisible by four. The knot is marked out on a
stick that is one inch square. Mark one of the central side compart-
ments with the figure X instead of a square. Instead of marking out
the knot with a pencil, it may be first laid out with a clue of black
linen thread in which all the crossings are over, without considering
the final over-and-under of the knot. Then pin one end of the band-
ing as shown in the drawing and follow the clue, repeating to your-
[ 106 ]
SINGLE-STRAND BUTTON KNOTS
self over, under, etc., as you lead your cord, and take the crossings
accordingly. Do not tuck through the clue; merely tuck under the
final cord whenever you repeat “under.” The ends depart from the
knot downward through a hole in the compartment opposite the X
at the center top.
617. This is exactly the same knot as the foregoing, except that
the center lead happens to be reversed, and the knot is tied by the
method described on page 102 .
618. A short, cylindrical Toggle based on a Turk’s-Head having
five bights. The center part between the two ends must be pricked
to the surface to complete the knot.
619. A Flat Oblong Toggle. The final shape of this knot is al-
most inevitable, and the knot is one of the most practical of the
Single-Strand Buttons. Its only drawback is that the center part
has a slight tendency to sink from sight and must be pricked to the
surface when completing the knot. This tendency can be corrected
with a few stitches of a needle.
620. A Flattened Cylindroid Toggle. Although the diagram ap-
pears much more complicated than those already shown, if the cord
is pinned carefully as the knot progresses, it presents no additional
problems, so far as tying is concerned. But the larger the knot, the
more carefully must it be worked, and this of course takes more
time. Work all knots deliberately and methodically.
621. An Upright Cylindroid Toggle. This is the same knot as the
above but projected from another angle, with the ends differently
led.
622. An Elliptical Knot that is compact and practical, but per-
haps not so handsome as the one which follows.
623. An Elliptical Knot of distinctive appearance. The top of
this knot should be worked flat.
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
624. A Triangular Knot. To accent the corners of this, three
two-sided compartments have been introduced. The knot is worked
very flat, and the edges are kept very sharp.
625. A triangular shape with a series of snug bights around the
edges. Although less distinctively triangular than the former knot,
it is perhaps handsomer, and quite as practical.
626. A Square Knot with sharp edges similar to # 624 . All the
knots shown on this page should be worked as flat as possible.
627. A Square Knot with the same characteristics as Triangular
Knot #6 25.
628. A Circular Flat-Topped Knot tied and worked in the same
manner.
629. The next few knots of this panel are based on the Chinese
Butterfly Knot, which is more fully described in Chapter 31
(“Fancy Knots”). When tied as a fancy knot, the bights which are
here tightly gathered around the crown of the knot are generally
extended in long loops to form the fringes or wings that have given
the name to the Butterfly Knots. Tied as a Button, there are four
loops on this particular specimen, and the stem of the knot is at the
center of the underside. Tied as a Butterfly Knot, the stem is at
one corner, and there are three loops around the knot (#2451);
while tied as a two-cord Lanyard Knot (#811), there are but two
loops to the knot. These knots are tightened two parts at a time as
described for Knot #587, in the last chapter.
630. An Oblong Knot which should be pinned out on the table
for tying. Unless worked very firmly, it will distort.
631. One of the handsomest and most practical of all the Button
Knots. Like the knots in the previous panel, this should be tied flat.
632. A larger Rectangular Knot.
633. A distinctive and individual knot with a diagonal texture.
634. An adaptation of the Butterfly Knot, in triangular form,
may be tied as a Button Knot. Unless carefully worked, it is in-
clined to be too open at the edges to be practical.
635. A Pentagonal Butterfly Button. A five-bight center is
inclined to distort. To obviate this the stem of the knot leads down
from the lower instead of the upper plane of the knot.
636. A “Letter-Box” Shape, adapted from a Turk’s-Head dia-
gram.
637. A Truncated Pyramid.
638. A Rectangular Knot of individual form. It is not necessary
in this one to prick up the top center part.
A practical way to copy diagrams that are not equipped with
the circles which indicate the over-and-under sequence is to draw the
diagram first with a single light pencil line. Then take a red pencil
and draw a solid red line over each crossing in the direction to be
taken by the upper lead or part.
[ 108
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
639. A Pentagon. The over-and-under lead of this knot is irregu
lar, so the circles should be observed with particular care. Because
of the five-bight center, which distorts easily, the stem is formed on
the underside of the knot instead of at the top center. The knot will
require more gentling than most but is satisfactory when finally in
form.
640. A wholly satisfactory Half Round Knot does not seem to
be easy to find. This one should have the stem seized close to the
knot after the top center part has been pricked to the surface.
641. A Quarter Round Knot may require considerable suasion
before it will draw up in proper form, but it is not at all bad when
it is completed. It was based on Square Knot #626.
642. A Casket-Shaped Knot is one of those that seem to fall
into shape almost inevitably. The shape itself is regular, handsome,
and very well proportioned for a button.
643. Although a triangular central compartment does not gener-
ally lend itself to a button design so well as a square one, in this case
a square-center, disk-shaped knot was striven for and found to dis-
tort easily, while the triangular one gave no trouble.
If an error is made in tying one of these knots, and the error is
not too deep-rooted, it is often easier to correct it than to retie the
knot. This is done by the method described as #127 on page 26 of
the first chapter. A shoestring is recommended for making the cor-
rection, and colored shoestrings also make excellent materials for
tying the Buttons. But such shoestrings at present are difficult to
obtain. On page 22 (Chapter 1 ) are described several ways for copy-
ing diagrams. They may be enlarged photographically, or a panto-
graph may be used. A tracing may be reversed if wanted for any
reason by utilizing a piece of carbon paper face up with a plain sheet
of paper on top of the carbon and under the diagram that is being
copied. A reversed tracing may also be made by placing a diagram
face against a window glass and tracing the reversed design on the
back of the same sheet.
[ IIO 1
SINGLE-STRAND BUTTON KNOTS
In working knots of the Butterfly variety, where, after they have
been tied, there is always danger of distortion, secure a short piece
of red twine temporarily through each one of the marginal bights
to assist in identification.
On single-line diagrams I have found that it is not difficult to go
astray at a crossing and lead the cord along the wrong line. A cross-
ing may be considered either as two lines that intersect each other
or as four lines that meet at a common point. A cord having been
laid to such a point, there are three courses open, the cord itself
already occupying one of the four lines. Number the three remain-
ing radiating fines i, 2, and 3, from left to right, and lay the cord
along 2, which is always the center one. It makes no difference if
the crossing is in the shape of a letter K, provided the lines are
properly numbered.
644. An Ellipse with a regular over-one-and-under-one surface,
and twenty-two parts.
The remaining knots on this page and the knots on page 1 1 2, with
the exception of #650, do not have the regular over-one-under-one
surface that the knots already shown have had. Knot #656, although
confused in the diagram by being tied in two planes, has a regular
over-one-under-one surface texture in the finished knot.
645. This very small knot of four parts, the center two parts being
parallel to each other, should be compared with Knots #605 and
#606, to which it is closely related. Although small, the knot is
wholly practical.
646. A knot resembling at the rim a Matthew Walker and with
a parallel two-part center at the top. After tying, this must be
worked very carefully, keeping the turns well down around the
stem until the knot is drawn up. Finally, the stem is pulled strongly
to tighten the two center parts.
647. A knot similar to the foregoing, more individual perhaps but
hardly as handsome.
648. A knot resembling a Matthew Walker Knot with a four-
part crown at the top.
[in]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
649. Here is a knot resembling a Double Four-Strand Mat-
thew Walker, with two additional parallel center parts, similar to
#646; but a much bulkier knot. When drawn up evenly this is quite
handsome.
650. A sport that will serve better as a pendant on a window shade
or light cord than as a practical knot, since it has champagne-bottle
shoulders. The texture is regularly over-one-and-under-one.
651. Superficially this knot appears to be related to the Monkey’s
Fist, all parts being at right angles to each other.
652. A knot that has already been shown among the double loops.
With the loops pulled up snugly, the knot makes a distinctive button.
653. The distinctive texture of this knot is due largely to the way
in which it is drawn up. Although at first it may appear complicated,
if a fairly stiff cord is employed, such as a braided curtain or sash
cord, the knot will probably fall into proper shape of its own voli-
tion.
654. An ambitious knot that is not very successful. It was intended
to be rectangular in form but is too large to be tied without a core.
Take a piece of white pine about one inch square and three quarters
of an inch thick. Bore a hole through this block from top to bottom
large enough for the two ends to be tucked through, and counter-
sink both ends of the hole.
Tie the knot, and when it is partly drawn up slip the wooden core
inside. Reeve the ends through the hole and down through the
bottom of the knot. Then work the knot snugly around the block.
655. A Wafer-Shaped Knot with the ends led out at the rim.
This knot was first tied in two planes, as Knot #656, by super-
[112]
SINGLE-STRAND BUTTON KNOTS
imposing two identical single-plane diagrams, one on top of the other,
one slued at a 45-degree angle to the other. This made the knot
confusing to tie but easy to work.
The knot was later projected as given here and tied as Single-
Plane Knot #655. In this way it proved easier to tie but more dif-
ficult to work. As the knot does not have a regular over-one-and-
ander-one sequence throughout, the encircled points are not num-
bered, and the diagram must be followed very carefully. When the
knot has been tied the outside rim or edge is lifted up and the rim
closed together at the top center to form the upper plane of the
knot, while the stem leads out of the knot at the right lower edge.
656 . A little more care is necessary in tying the knot in two planes,
but after it is once tied it is already in proper completed form and
requires nothing further but a gradual working into the finished
shape, shown in the illustration of the key guard. The cord moves
from one plane to the other as it rounds the rim after each crossing.
There is one peculiar feature to be noted, and that is where the sec-
ond vertical from the left does not cross the diagram completely
but turns downward and returns to the bottom in a right diagonal
after going two thirds of the way to the top.
To tie a watch guard, middle a cord and tie the Button Knot, then
at the proper distance tie Knife Lanyard Knot #787. Finally form
the key loop with one end, and tuck that end back into the knot,
withdrawing the opposing end two full tucks. Draw all snug, and
cut off the ends.
A similar diagram to #656 is utilized in Chapter 4 as Single-Cord
Lanyard Knot #593.
L 1 1 3 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
657. A decorative necklace is made by doubling a cord and mak-
ing a small Button (#600) which is to be worn at the nape of the
neck. Two or three Two-Cord Lanyard Knots from Chapter 8 are
then added. After that, Pectoral Knot $843 or #844 is tied, leaving
either a small loop at the bottom with which to make fast a pectord
ornament, or else Button #656 may be used for a pendant. If the
latter, the Pectoral Knot is pinned out and half tied and not com-
pleted until the button has been made. The Pectoral Knot being
tied, the remaining half of the necklace is completed to match the
first half. Next, one end of the cord is doubled back to form the
buttonhole, which may be done as in #659.
658. Having made a button on a single lanyard, cut and scrape the
shorter end and serve it strongly and evenly, as in Eye Splice ^2792,
using thread of the same color. If it is sewed through a few stitches,
as in #2793, it will be firmer.
59. To make a loop or eye for the button, scrape and taper the
end and sew through several times before serving.
660, 661. The Chinese adjust pieces of the material of the garment
into a firm, tight roll and sew the edge neatly down. The buttonhole
is made in the same way, and when it shows wear it may be “button-
holed” over. The Chinese way of securing a button is to lay the ends
parallel and sew them close together to the face of the garment.
662, 663. In silk cord the ends of the knot, and of the loop also, are
often made into frogs of various sorts. See Chapter 30.
664. Where a strong attachment is needed the two ends are put
through an eyelet and then rove through a leather washer or an
ordinary button; they are then reef knotted together or else the
ends ate tacked down after passing through the leather washer.
665. Sometimes the buttons of a garment are all made in one cord
and the cord is sewed along the edge of the garment to button into
ordinary buttonholes, or else a set of loops is arranged in the same
fashion as the buttons.
666. The seam of a heavy coat is sometimes opened and the ends
of the knot frayed out and sewed flat between the two layers of
material.
667. Button ends may be rove through eyelet holes and frayed
and then sewed around on the back of the material.
668. The ends may be seized close and cut short, after which they
are attached to the garment by sewing the knot itself “over and
over,” close to the stem.
669. The Basket Knot was described to me in a letter from Al-
bert R. Wetjen, to whom I wrote for information after seeing it men-
tioned in Fiddlers’ Green . I trust that it is correct as portrayed, but
I am by no means certain. A Three-Lead, Five-Bight Turk’s-Head
is made and doubled. After this has been faired, follow the arrow line
which passes twice around the knot, and then double this. Seize the
ends together and tuck them up through the knot; draw up, and
employ the ends to conclude a lanyard.
[ 1 14 ]
CHAPTER 6: KNOB KNOTS. MULTI-STRAND
STOPPER OR TERMINAL KNOTS
Knots aft on the port sP
Forward on the starboard;
Opposite the left eye ,
All around and inboard.
The Rigging Lanyard Knot
(Sailors’ Work Rhyme)
The fourth variety of Knob Knots, the general purpose of which
is to prevent unreeving, is the Multi-Strand Stopper Knot, in which
a number of strands, after the knot is tied, depart from the top at the
center. The ends should be laid up together and whipped at a length
not less than the diameter of the rope. In cable stoppers this length
would not be less than four or five inches. Whippings are described
at the end of Chapter 40.
A knot of this variety is tied ordinarily in plain-laid rope of three
or four strands. When one is put in a shroud-laid rope (four strands
with the addition of a core) the knot is tied with the four strands
only and the core is led straight through the knot without complica-
tion. After the knot has been made the rope is laid up around the
core as before, and whipped, the core being cut off even with the
ends of the strands.
Multi-Strand Stopper Knots are seldom tied with over four
strands. In sinnets, when larger knots are required, Button Knots are
generally preferred, since they are considered handsomer. But Stop-
per Knots are sometimes tied in sinnet, in which case the ends are
finished off with the same sinnet before seizing.
Many old authorities advise tying certain Multi-Strand Knots
‘against the lay,” but there is little unanimity as to which knots
[ m 5 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
should be so treated. Among hundreds of old examples, I have seen
only a few knots that were tied against the lay, and these were all
of the button variety. It is impracticable to tie a neat Stopper Knot
in this manner, as the strands leave the knot in a helix contrary to
the lay of the rope, so the ends cannot be laid up symmetrically.
Before tying any of the Stopper Knots, the rope should be seized
at the point where the knot is to be commenced, then the end of each
strand should be stopped. Each strand is then pounded with a mallet
to render it smooth. Although the strands of Button Knots are
canvas-covered, Multi-Strand Stopper Knots are seldom treated in
that way.
Unless otherwise directed, the initial tuck in doubling the lead of
a Multi-Strand Knot is below or outside and along the periphery
of the first wall or crown (whichever was first) and in the same
direction, and thereafter the lead is paralleled without crossing the
part that lies alongside.
In practicing Stopper Knots, take three pieces of banding, seize
them together with a Constrictor Knot, and, disregarding the fact
that they are of braided material, twist or lay up one end into a six-
inch length of rope, as in # 144. This structure may be used over and
over again, while a piece of ordinary rope disintegrates quickly under
the treatment after the strands are once opened. If four strands are
required make a Four-Strand Round Sinnet of the same material.
The tools required for these knots are a pricker (#99A), a loop
buttoner (#990, and a pair of pliers (#996), illustrated on page 21.
670 . “ Crowning ” is mentioned by Steel in 1794. The Vocabulary
of Sea Phrases of 1799 gives both the crown and the double crown .
The Crown Knot is seldom used unsupported. Generally it acts
as one of the constituent parts of a more elaborate knob. But Luce’s
Seamanship (1862) recommends a single crown for finishing off an
eye seizing.
To tie a Three-Strand Crown: Hold the apparatus as in the right
upper diagram, and tie the knot in a counterclockwise direction.
Take one strand, and cross it over the next strand ahead. Take the
second strand, cross it over the end of the first-moved strand and
across the standing part of the next strand ahead. Take the third
strand, and cross it over the end of the strand last moved, then tuck
the end through the bight of the next strand ahead (which, in the
Three-Strand Knot, is the first strand that was moved). Draw the
knot up, and it will appear as in the last two diagrams.
671 . The Wall Knot is the exact reverse of the Crown Knot. If
either of these knots is turned upside down it becomes the other knot.
But as the stem of a knot leads from the bottom, the knots ordinarily
are different.
John Smith mentions the “Wall Knott” in 1627, Manwayring the
“Wale Knot” in 1644, Blanckley the “Whale Knott” in 1750, and
Falconer the “Walnut” in 1769. Even in Falconer’s day standardized
spelling and pronunciation had hardly been thought of.
Occasionally a rigger will tie a Wall Knot in two-strand stuff
(marline), or an electrician will tie one in two-strand electric wire,
but generally the knot is tied with three or more strands. When a
Wall is used as a stopper, unsupported, it is best to countersink it.
Lescallier in 1783 speaks of the “Single Wall Knot,” and Blanckley
mentions the “Double Wall Knot” in 1750.
To tie a Three-Strand Wall Knot: Take one strand and bring
it counterclockwise under the next strand. Take the next strand,
and pass it under the end of the first-moved strand and under the
[ 1 16 ]
MULTI-STRAND STOPPER OR TERMINAL KNOTS
standing part of the next. Take the third strand under the second
end and up through the bight of the first-moved strand.
672. This is called the Wall and Crown Knot, and was men-
tioned by Moore in 1801. The wall is tied first, and then a crown is
superimposed.
The Crown, the Wall, the Diamond Knot (#693), and the
Footrope Knot (#696) are the basis of the knots of this chapter.
The four are tied in combination and with variations, and are doubled
in a number of ways. This type of knot is spoken of as the “built-up”
variety.
There are two ways of “following the lead” when doubling a
knot. To follow below , lead the end below, or “outside” the initial
wall, as indicated by the solid single line.
To follow above , proceed as indicated by the dotted line, and con-
tinue parallel with the same strand and without crossing it.
If a knot is tied flat on the cork board, with the stem dropped
down through the hole, as in #674, #675, and #676, it may be
pinned out symmetrically. So arranged, a knot is doubled “below
the lead” when the second circuit of the strand is radially on the
outer side of the first circuit, and the knot is doubled “above the
lead” when the second circuit is inside the first circuit and radially
nearer the center.
When the lead has been “followed” around the knot once, it is
said to have been doubled and is a Two-Ply Knot; when followed
twice it is tripled and is a Three-Ply Knot.
673. The Deck Stopper provided the name for the whole class of
Stopper Knots. Its purpose was to secure the cables of a ship, which
were too large to be belayed in the ordinary way, and to “stop”
them from running out. A knot and a lanyard were in one end of
the stopper, and the other end was hooked to the deck. The cable
was secured with a lanyard lashing around the neck of the knot, the
end being dogged and stopped along the cable.
674. The Stopper Knot, per se, is a Single Wall with each strand
given an additional tuck as shown by the arrow. The name is given
by Steel in 1794. The Manual of Seamanship calls it the Wall and
Half Wall. In tying, draw up the strands firmly and evenly. When
it is completed lay up the ends into a short section of rope, whip
them, and trim. In speaking of the knot, the Manual of Seamanship
further says: “Made in this way they will never capsize.”
Lever, in 1808, stated that the ends of Stopper Knots “if very
short are whipped without being stopped” This statement is mean-
ingless and is probably a printer’s error, but it is still being copied.
Brady, in 1841, straightened out the statement as follows: “The ends,
if short, are whipped without being lay ed up; but if long, they are
layed up and stopped”
675. The Double Wall (1) is given by Blanckley, 1750. Lever
(1808) says the Double Wall is “tied in the ends of topgallant
braces, to button into the clews of topgallant-sails.” It was also used
on stoppers instead of the Stopper Knot, and may be the earlier
form or the two. In doubling this knot, it is preferable to follow
above the first lead.
The Manual of Seamanship says: “a Double Wall Knot will cap-
size when a great strain is brought on it.”
676. Double Wall Knot (2). This is a more compact and hand-
somer knot than the foregoing one and combines the best features of
#674 and #675.
[ 1 1 7 J
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
677. Double Wall Knot (3) is the most distinguished of the three
given. After the basic Wall Knot has been tied each end is brought
around the knot and thrust up beside the stem through its own bight.
678. The Full or Double Matthew Walker Knot. Lever in
1 808 speaks of “Matthew Walker’s Knot” and describes the knot
which Alston in 1 860 calls the “Double Matthew Walker Knot.”
A refinement of the original knot had in the meantime taken over
the original name, which is now generally modified to “a Matthew
Walker.”
Lever’s familiar expression, “Matthew Walker’s Knot,” sug-
gests that he may have known the inventor, who was possibly a
master rigger in one of the British naval dockyards. Many myths
have grown up around Matthew Walker, “the only man ever to
have a knot named for him.” Dr. Frederic Lucas, of the American
Museum of Natural History, once told me the following story of
the origin of the knot, which he had heard off the Chincha Islands
while loading guano in 1869.
A sailor, having been sentenced to death by a judge who in earlier
life had been a sailor himself, was reprieved by the judge because of
their common fellowship of the sea. The judge offered the sailor
a full pardon if he could show him a knot that he, the judge, could
neither tie nor untie.
The sailor called for ten fathoms of rope and, having retired to
the privacy of his cell, unlaid the rope halfway, put in a Matthew
Walker Knot, and then laid up the rope again to the end.
So Matthew Walker secured his pardon, and the world gained an
excellent knot.
To tie the Double Matthew Walker: Hold the rope in the left
hand. Arrange the strands as pictured. Take the backmost one, make
a large left turn with it around the stem of the knot, and bring the
end up through its own bight. Take the strand that is in front of
the one just moved, make a left turn on top of the previous strand
and bring the end up through both the bights. Take the third strand
and lead it in the same way, bringing the end up through all three
bights. The Manual of Seamanship says that the Double Matthew
Walker is used on topmast rigging lanyards, bunt beckets, and the
beckets of tubs and buckets.
679. Beckets are employed here and there about ships for suspend-
ing and securing objects. A common becket has either a stopper ora
button at one end, and an eye at the other. It is sometimes called a
“Strap and Button.” Falconer describes this becket in 1769.
680. The Double or Full Matthew Walker may be tied on the
cork board by pinning out on the diagram shown here.
681. The Matthew Walker proper is occasionally called Single
Matthew Walker by the uninitiated. It is a much trimmer knot
than #678 and it has almost entirely superseded the double knot on
shipboard. It is the most important knot used aboard ship. Todd and
Whall, in their Seamanship , go so far as to state: “Amongst knot!
proper the Matthew Walker is almost the only one which it s|
absolutely necessary for the seaman to know.” The word knot i$j
used here in its narrowest sense, meaning a Multi-Strand Knob, but
even so this is high praise for the Matthew Walker Knot.
Alongside is shown the lubber's or greenhorn's way of tying the
knot. First make a Double Matthew Walker (#678), and then
withdraw each strand in turn, one tuck only.
[ 1 18 ]
MULTI-STRAND STOPPER OR TERMINAL KNOTS
682 . The direct or able seaman's way of tying a Matthew
Walker Knot was taught me by Captain Charles W. Smith, on
board Sunbeam in 1 904,
With any two strands, tie a Wall Knot around the remaining
strand. Lay the third (remaining) strand around the end that issues
from the same compartment, lead it around the stem of the knot
counterclockwise, and tuck it up through the only bight that does
not already enclose an end.
683 . The ordinary seaman’s way of tying a Matthew Walker
Knot is first to make a common Wall Knot and then to tuck each
end to the right through the next bight ahead.
Lever, in 1808, speaking of “Matthew Walker’s Knot,” says:
“This is a handsome knot for the end of a lannier.” I do not recall
any earlier direct evidence of the employment of a Lanyard Knot.
Italian paintings of the period of the battle of Lepanto show the
standing ends of lanyard lashings apparently secured with splices.
(See Chapter 40.) The stone monument to Peter Martyr, erected in
the fifteenth century in Milan, appears to show the same method.
(See #3298).
Ship models made as early as the seventeenth century frequently
carry Lanyard Knots, but ship models are untrustworthy. Under
the best of conditions model rigging requires repair or replacement
every fifty or sixty years.
Neither Manwayring, Smith, nor Boteler in discussing shrouds,
deadeyes, and “lanniers” mentions either knots or splices. All men-
tion the Wall or Wale Knot, but always in connection with
“Sheates, Tackes, and Stoppers.”
But for many years, shroud lanyards have been secured at one end
by a knot which passed through a hole in the upper deadeye. Fore
and aft stay lanyards reeve through hearts. The latter are set up at
both ends and have no knots, the ends being seized. One of the first
knots to be used on the ends of lanyards was probably the Stopper
Knot (#674).
684 . The earliest Lanyard Knot that I have found described is
“Two Single Wall Knots, one under the other, cast on the end.”
This is given by Lever (1808). Brady says in 1841, “Reeve the
lanyards, if prepared with a knot on the end; a double wall is prefer-
able”; which would seem to indicate that the use of a Lanyard Knot
was not universal even at that time. The Matthew Walker Knot,
recommended by Lever in 1808, remained the standard Lanyard
Knot for topmast rigging as long as ships sailed the ocean.
685 . It is probable that the Lanyard Knot proper first appeared
on clippers of the early 1850s, but it is not mentioned in naval treatises
before i860.
The Lanyard Knot, per se, was tied in four-strand, tarred hemp,
and was used for lower rigging only.
686. Deck bucket bails or beckets were of three-strand rope and
had two Matthew Walker Knots. Generally leather washers and
collars were added. Fire-bucket handles were often four-strand rope
and had either Lanyard Knots (#687) or else Four-Strand Single
Matthew Walkers (#692). Mess bucket bails ordinarily were of
wood and pivoted on a wooden button.
[ ”9 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
687. The orthodox way in which the able seaman ties the Lanyard
Knot is illustrated alongside. Very few have ever learned it except
at the forecastle, and the way is easily forgotten. A bight is made with
one strand, and the next strand is laid counterclockwise across this
bight (figure i). The third strand is then laid across the first two, and
the end of the first-laid strand is led out to the periphery of the knot
as in the second diagram. The third end is then led down under the
second end and, continuing around the stem of the knot, is rove up
through the first-laid bight. The fourth end is led down and around
the second-laid strand end and, continuing around the stem of the
knot, is rove up through the first and second bights. The knot is then
worked close down on the seizing and drawn snug, after which the
four strands are laid up for a distance equal to the width of the knot.
It is finally given a palm-and-needle whipping (#344 6).
688. The ordinary seaman's way of tying the Lanyard Knot is
perhaps the most practical of the lot. Two opposite strands are walled
around the other two, which are held aloft without being involved.
The second two strands are then walled, each being brought down
around the stem and tucked up inside two bights as pictured.
The Lanyard Knot may also be tied by first making a Four-
Strand Double Matthew Walker, then withdrawing each end,
one tuck at a time, exactly as in Knot $681 and then withdrawing
each end once more in the same manner. This is called the lubber's
way.
Or the knot may be tied by making a Four-Strand Wall, and
tucking each strand under one more bight.
689. The knots of this series are very convenient for making rope
handrails for the steps and ladders of cellars, attics, and barns. The
lower end is finished off with an Eye Splice and lanyard for lashing.
Constant care must be taken to keep the lay of the strands fair.
After each tuck, before drawing the knot taut, correct any uneven-
ness, and when inserting the pricker or marlingspike be careful not
to snag the yarns.
Captain Daniel F. Mullins tells me that he once sailed on a ship in
which all the Lanyard Knots had square pegs driven into the hearts
to keep the whippings snug. Undoubtedly it was a rigger’s ap-
prentice who made this mistake, since any sailor who could tie the
knot at all would know that it had to be hove taut.
690. This pictures a Lanyard Knot in position inboard at the left
hole of an upper deadeye. On a few smart ships port lanyards were of
left-laid rope and the port knots were at the forward hole, “opposite
the right eye” and so were tied left-handed. But commonly the knots
were “opposite the left eye,” as described in the doggerel at the be-
ginning of this chapter. Where cable shrouds were used— which was
common on large naval ships in the last days of hemp standing rig-
ging— all knots were opposite the right eye.
[ 120 ]
MULTI-STRAND STOPPER OR TERMINAL KNOTS
691. The Four-Strand Full or Double Matthew Walker is tied
as has already been described for the Three-Strand Knot (#678).
Each strand is moved in turn, counter clo ck'unse , once around the
whole knot. Each strand ties a Half Knot to the left, the end being
brought up through the structure as shown in the drawings for #678.
The knot having been formed, place the ends together and arrange in
the form of the upper left diagram of this page. Work the knot back
against the seizing, and tighten each strand a little in turn, at all times
keeping it symmetrical. But do not attempt to keep it in disk form.
Get it promptly into cylindrical form as in the right upper drawing.
692. The Four-Strand Single Matthew Walker is sometimes
seen on fire buckets and is ordinarily tied by first making the Four-
Strand Full Matthew Walker as above, and then withdrawing
each strand one tuck only, as illustrated for Knot #681. The direct
method, which is similar to Knot #682, is as follows:
Make a bight with one strand, lead the next strand counterclock-
wise, making a wall with the first strand. Take the third strand and
lead it down and around the stem and up through the second bight.
Last, take the fourth strand, lead it down and around the stem
and up through the third bight. Work the knot fair in disk form, then
draw it taut in cylindrical form.
693. The Diamond Knot, sometimes called the Single Diamond,
is an early knot. Falconer mentions it in 1769.
Seize three strands, turn down the ends for a good working length,
and stop them. (A stop is less permanent, but it serves the same pur-
pose as a seizing.) Hold the structure in the left hand, take any strand
and pass it to the right over the adjacent strand and up under the
second strand. Allow the end to hang down away from you over the
back of the hand. Take the next strand to the right, and pass it
to the right over the next adjacent strand and under the second
strand. Repeat with the third strand. If there are more than three
strands, continue until all have been passed in the same manner. Next,
remove the stop and work the knot down hard against the seizing,
at the same time working it taut by hauling up on each strand a little
at a time and in regular order. The ends are finally laid up and
whipped. This knot was first used on jib-boom footropes and later
on side, yoke, and bell ropes.
When tied in a footrope, the strands were whipped and the rope
was opened to half length and knots tied at the distance of a yard
apart, to one end. Then the second end of the rope was opened and
treated likewise. At first seize or stop the rope at the point where
the knot is to be tied. But when the knot has become familiar, the
strands need not be stopped before tying.
If a Constrictor Knot (#1249) is put around the ends of a Dia-
mond Knot after it is tied, close to the knot, and the ends pulled and
tightened through the Constrictor, the ends of the knot will have
a much better lead.
[ 121 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
694. The Double Diamond (with the lead followed above) is
given by Steel in 1794. The knot is doubled when a larger knot is
desired, or if the knot is wanted for decorative purposes. If a doubled
knot is tied in a footrope, the second lead is above the first as de-
picted here, as this brings the strands closer to the center of the knot
and the rope lays up more snugly. The left diagram indicates how
the lead is started, each strand being tucked once in turn. The second
diagram indicates how the final tucks are taken to the center top.
Draw up carefully. The knot was first tied in jib-boom footropes
to prevent feet from slipping.
695. The Double Diamond (with the lead followed below) is illus-
trated here. When doubling most knots the lead is followed below,
but Diamond Knots are tied in either way. The British Admiralty
Manual of the Sea says that Double Diamond Knots are tied in “the
lanyards of fire buckets.”
The diagrams illustrate progressively how the strands are led.
Once a lead has been started, an end must not be allowed to cross to
the other side of the strand that is being followed.
696. The Footrope Knot. “First a crown, then a wall. Tuck up,
and that’s all.” This is structurally the same as the Diamond Knot,
but it is tied “end for end”; that is to say, it is reversed. The lead
being more compact at the end, the knot makes a far better appear-
ing footrope than the Diamond Knot, and, the lay being smoother,
it is less subject to wear. It was first shown to me by Captain Charles
W. Smith, who also supplied the work rhyme. After crowning and
walling the rope, tuck the end to the top center as indicated in the
drawings, and the single knot is complete.
697. The Double Footrope Knot is followed above the first lfead.
The left diagram shows how the ends are tucked at the center.
Tuck each strand once in turn, then tuck each strand in turn a
second time up to the center as in the right bottom diagram. Each
end passes under four parts.
698. The Cat Stopper Knot is used when the anchor has been
catted (brought to the cathead). The stopper holds the anchor while
the tackle is being shifted. One end of the stopper bears a knot, and
the other end is pointed. The pointed end is rove downward through
a hole in the cathead, passed through the anchor ring, led over a
[in]
MULTI-STRAND STOPPER OR TERMINAL KNOTS
thumb cleat beside the hole on the after face of the cathead, and then
is brought inboard and made fast to a timber head.
This knot was shown to me by Walter Thompson, head boat
steerer on the Sunbeam , and afterwards mate. While boat steerer, he
was called “Bosun” because of his proficiency with knots, there being
no boatswain on a whaler. The rope is first crowned, next walled,
and finally tucked to the top as illustrated. When tying the knot,
if it is pinned out flat on the cork board with the stem tucked down
through the center hole, there will be little chance of a mistake in
tucking.
The end is stuck up immediately without following the previous
wall; this is indicated by the arrows. If correctly tied the knot will
resemble Stopper Knot #674, with a crown added.
699 . A Single Crown and Double Wall ( 1 ). Start as in tne previ-
ous knot, but when the wall has been completed take one strand and
follow below the strand ahead (counterclockwise) and tuck up to
the center. Do likewise with the other two strands. The circuit jf
only one strand is illustrated here, but each strand in turn is moved
counterclockwise.
The sequence of these three knots— #698, #699, and #700— should
be compared with #674, #675, and #676.
700. A Single Crown and Double Wall (2). The final tuck of
his is made beyond one additional standing part. This gives a char-
icter quite different from the previous knot, which has a flat, even
>ase.
701. Single Crown and Double Wall (3). Having tied the
:rown and wall, tuck each end through the bight of the next crown
to the right. Then bring each end around to the right, following
under the adjacent parallel wall, and, passing by the next end to the
right, tuck up to the center under three parts.
Unlike the Button Knots, the strands of Stopper Knots seldom
are canvas-covered.
702 . Stopper Knots of different kinds are tied in life lines, etc.,
and are rove through stanchions at the ends of alleyways, compan-
ionways, and catwalks. The working end may have an Eye Splice
(#2747), or it may be pointed and finished off with Eye #3550 or
#3562.
[123]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
703 . Crown and Lanyard Knot (if tied with four strands) or
Crown and Matthew Walker Knot (if tied with three strands).
First make a crown in the usual way, then, below it, tie a Lanyard
Knot (#687) or a Matthew Walker Knot (#682), and tuck the
ends up to the center, as indicated.
Most of the knots of this chapter should be fully and loosely tied
before being worked taut. Then each strand in turn should be tight-
ened a little, one part only at a time. Work as methodically as pos-
sible, and be careful at all times not to distort.
704 . Crown and Double Matthew Walker. A handsome knot
which, if the ends are not laid up, is easily mistaken for Sinnet Knot
#757 of the next chapter. Tie first a crown, then below it a Full
Matthew Walker (#678), after which tuck the ends up through
the center of the crown.
705 . A Footrope Knot variation. Crown three strands to the left ,
stop the three strands to the stem, and take any end, leading it up-
ward in a right diagonal completely around the stem and sticking it
up through the center of the crown under its own part. Do likewise
with the next strand to the right, and then with the remaining strand.
706 . A Double Crown and Single Wall. It may have been noted
by the reader that the Single Diamond Knot (*693) is similar in
appearance to a section of Three-Strand Flat Sinnet wrapped
horizontally around the rope. The present knot is similar to Five-
Strand Flat Sinnet wrapped in similar manner. A Double Crown
and a Single Wall having been tied with several strands, each
end in turn is passed to the right over the first standing part and
then is tucked up to center under three parts, as shown in the
second illustration. The completed knot is shown as the final draw-
ing of #707 (bottom right).
707 . A Double Crown and Matthew Walker. This being tied,
the ends are tucked up under two parts to the center of the crown.
This makes precisely the same knot as #70 6, but it is tied differently.
708 . Crown and Diamond. First tie a crown, and, if wished, stop
the strands to the stem as shown in #705. The ends below the stop-
ping must be left long enough to tie the knot. Lead any strand to
the right, passing over the first strand and under the second one.
[ 124 ]
MULTI-STRAND STOPPER OR TERMINAL KNOTS
Repeat with the other two strands in turn. Then tuck each strand
up to the center top, passing under one part of the crown. This com-
pletes the Single Crown and Diamond Knot as pictured in the right
top diagram.
709. A Double Crown and Diamond is started as the above knot,
but the final tuck to the top center that was shown in #708 is not
taken. Instead, when the diamond has been tucked “over one and
under one” and the knot has progressed to the point shown in the
left diagram, tuck any one end down through the crown, above and
parallel with the adjacent strand of the original crown, as shown in
the left diagram. Do likewise with the other two strands, and then
follow the lead of the Diamond Knot with all strands, one tuck at a
time. Follow the original lead carefully and do not cross the strand
you are following. Use the loop buttoner for tucking. When all
parts have been doubled, the ends will issue from the tier shown in
the left diagram. Sink the ends where they stand, and bring them
out at the top. Fair the knot and work taut. In Sweden, according
to Ohrvall, this is called Rose Knot (Rosenknop).
710. Twice crowned. Take four strands and tie two crowns, the
second one outside (or below) the first. Draw the knot up loosely,
and lead each end to the right over the next standing part and tuck
up to the center under two parts as illustrated. The knot will have
four flat faces.
711. Wall and Crown. Superficially this resembles #701, in
which the crown comes first and the wall after. Often there are a
number of ways in which to achieve a similar result. This fact makes
the analysis of old paint-covered knots, that may not be opened, ex-
ceedingly difficult.
In this knot, after the wall and crown have been tied, the end
parallels below the wall and is tucked up to the center inside four
parts.
712. Another Wall and Crown. Start this like the last one, and
then double the wall by following below the first lead. Do not stick
up to the center, but take the ends and follow the lead of the wall
a second time, making a Three-Ply Knot. Stick the ends up to the
center under five parts.
[ 125]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
713. A number of old seamanship and rigging books, among them
Bushell’s (1854), recommend “crowning and double walling ” the
Stopper Knot when using it on a Deck Stopper. The crown is de-
signed to overcome a tendency to “roll” and capsize. I have found
no description of the manner of disposing of the ends, but the
ends could either be tucked to the stem, which would automatically
make a Button Knot, eligible for the chapter to follow, or else
they could be tucked up to the top center as shown here, making a
true Stopper Knot.
714. A Matthew Walker Crowned, and tucked up in a manner
similar to the last, makes a handsome knot resembling #701 and
#710.
715. A Diamond Knot Crowned may be treated in the same way.
After doubling the diamond by following above the original knot,
tuck the ends where they lie up through the center of the crown to
the top, without doubling the crown.
716. Diamond Knot and Block Strap. Seize a strap stoutly around
the block, open the two ends, whip the six strands, and lay up the
ends into three pairs— that is, into three two-strand ropes. Then
close the three pairs into cable for the length required for the neck.
Seize and tie a regular Diamond Knot using the three two-strand
ropes as strands. Lay up the ends for a further distance beyond the
knot and whip. Directions for laying up ends will be found near the
end of Chapter 1.
If difficulty is met in tying the knot with double strands, first
tie it with single strands (employing every alternate one), and then
double the knot with the three strands that were left out the first
time. Lay up the ends as already directed.
717. Walter Thompson tied a Cable Stopper Knot in the follow-
ing way: Seize the cable stoutly, and open into nine strands. Take
one inside strand from each rope, and lay the three up into a single
rope for a core. Arrange the remaining six strands in pairs, and wall
them around the structure, keeping the two strands of each pair
parallel. Add a crown above the wall, and then tuck each pair of
ends up to the top center as indicated by the arrow. Finally, lay the
strands up right-handed into six-strand rope, around the single
center core of three strands that was first made. Whip all ends,
and trim them.
It is interesting to note that Walter Thompson, Captain Smith, and
Captain Whitney all tied a number of knots, the knowledge of which
they had acquired at sea many years after the practical needs for
which the knots had originally been evolved no longer existed.
718. A Cable Stopper Knot may be tied employing only six
strands, using the remaining three strands as a core, in the follow-
[ 12 6 ]
MULTI-STRAND STOPPER OR TERMINAL KNOTS
ing manner; or the knot may be tied in six-strand rope or sinnet,
or else with the two ends of a three-strand strap or becket.
Single wall the six strands, then arrange the ends in three pairs of
two strands each, and crown them as in the first diagram. Stick the
left member of each pair under one additional part, as indicated by
the arrow in the left diagram, and the knot will assume the appear-
ance of the right diagram. Keeping the knot flat, follow below the
original wall with each of the six ends and stick up to the center
between two standing parts. Finally, lay up into Six-Strand Round
Sinnet or else six-strand right-hand rope.
719. The Buoy Rope Knot is described and named by Steel in
1794. It was put into the end of a cable-laid rope to provide a shoul-
der to assist in making the buoy rope fast to the anchor. First put on
a heavy seizing, and open the cable into its three component ropes
as far as the seizing. Next lay out one strand from each rope end .
Stop all ends, and lay up the cable again with the three two-strand
ropes that are left, having first beaten them well with a mallet. To do
this, take two of the rope ends, twist them as hard as possible, and
lay them up together. Then lay up the two with the remaining single
rope end. Stop them, and beat them again to make them lie fair.
Next, proceed to wall and double wall the three single strands
where they were originally laid out. Draw the knot taut, and worm
the three strands to the end of the cable. Finally, put on a strong
spun-yam whipping, which in width should equal the diameter of
the cable.
720. In bending the buoy rope to an anchor the rope is first made
fast to the crown of the anchor with Buoy Rope Hitch #3323, and
then is seized next the crown. The knot is put halfway up the shank,
and the rope is seized both above and below the Buoy Rope Knot.
721. To crown a cable . Put on a stout whipping some distance
from the end, and open the cable into its nine separate strands. Take
the three innermost strands (one from each of the three component
ropes) and lay them up into a three-strand rope, to form a heart.
Arrange the remaining six strands into pairs, take the right member
of each pair, open it out and tease and fay it along the heart that
was just made, and serve over all.
Crown the remaining three strands to the right, and worm them
back along the cable their full length. Haul all taut and seize twice,
once at the end of the worming and once close below the crown.
722. Luce in 1862 states that in crowning a cable “sometimes an
artificial eye [#2796] is formed with the three inner strands.” By
means of this the cable is attached to a smaller rope and hauled out
through the hawse pipe.
[ 127 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
723. Wherever required, on both Stopper and Button Knots,
leather washers and often leather collars are added to prevent exces-
sive wear. The outer edges of the washers are always serrated, and
the lower edge of the collar is treated in the same way. On smart
ships “pinking irons” are provided the boatswain for the purpose, but
a smart sailor can do quite as good a job with his jackknife— which,
by the way, is a large, blunt clasp knife with a ring at the end, sus-
pended from a neck lanyard and named after “Jack” himself. The
stitches by which a collar is sewed are given as # 3538 . There is
always plenty of leather aboard ships, old boot tops, pump washers
and rawhide chafing gear being the main sources.
724. A slashed cap was put over a Matthew Walker Knot when-
ever the knot was used on manrope and yoke ropes. This was done
when a decorative knot smaller than the Manrope Knot was thought
neater for the purpose. A piece of red leather was considered very
smart, especially on a white-painted rope. A Narrow Turk’s-Head
of small hard fishline added to the security of the collar.
After the Matthew Walker Knot had been tied, the piece oi
leather was slashed in the manner illustrated at the left. The length
of the slashing and the spacing required careful planning. The width
of the leather had to fit exactly the length of the rope and the cir-
cumference of the knot. The end fibers of the rope were trimmed to
a dome shape. The holes for the stitches were punched with a boot-
maker’s awl. These things having been prepared, and the rope having
been parceled and wormed, the sailor was ready to go to work. Is
it any wonder that, with skilled labor at a dollar or more an hour,
good knot work is pretty nearly a lost art?
725. A rope swivel requires an iron washer to provide a flat base
on which the knot can revolve. A Matthew Walker Knot and a
piece of sole leather are also required. The leather is cut as shown
in the left diagram, and the center is piped around a short strand of
rope and sewed to make a round member, through which an eye
can be spliced. The washer and knot are greased with suet. If well
made, no better swivel can be asked for.
726. Stopper Knots, generally Matthew Walker Knots, are
used under the seats of swings and bosuns’ chairs. For other seat
arrangements, see the chairs on page 590 . The height of the seat here
shown is adjustable; see Hitch #1800.
r 128]
CHAPTER 7: KNOB KNOTS. MULTI-STRAND
LANYARD KNOTS
First a crown y
Next a wall ,
Then tuck up
And that’s all.
Captain Charles W. Smith’s Footrope Knot
A lanyard, laniard, or lannier is a short piece of rope or line that
is made fast to something, either to secure it by, or to act as a
handle.
The Lanyard Knot proper is a Stopper Knot (#687 of the last
chapter) that is tied in the ends of lower rigging lanyards.
But the name nowadays is more often applied to knobs that are
made in the bight for decorative purposes, and these are tied usually
in a chain or series. Their practical purpose is to provide a hand- or
foothold or to allow for an adjustment of the rope’s length.
The commonest of Lanyard Knots are Matthew Walker Knot
derivatives. It was shown in the last chapter that the Matthew
Walker (which is specifically a Three-Strand Knot) may be tied
either by withdrawing one tuck from each of the component strands
of a Double Matthew Walker or else by adding one tuck to each
strand of a Wall Knot. Furthermore, if two successive tucks are
added to the Wall, a Full Matthew Walker results. If a Four-
Strand Wall is tucked once a Lanyard Knot is made; if tucked
twice a Four-Strand Matthew Walker is made, and if tucked
three times a Four-Strand Full or Double Matthew Walker
Knot is made. Any knot of this variety in which the number of
strands and the number of tucks are equal is a Full Matthew
Walker Knot and any knot of one tuck only, with any number of
strands, is a Wall Knot.
A Single-Strand Matthew Walker Knot tucked once is a
Wall Knot or a Single Overhand Knot. A single strand tucked
twice is a Double Overhand Knot, and a single strand tucked three
times is a Triple Overhand Knot.
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
As any number of strands may be tucked any number of times,
the number of knots of this kind is unlimited. Six-, Eight-, Ten-
and (sometimes) Twelve-Strand Full Matthew Walkers are
seen on sailors’ clothesbag lanyards, and Nine-Strand Full
Matthew Walkers are found on cat-o’-nine-tails. But a Matthew
Walker of over six strands tends to distort unless a core or heart
is employed, so anything over eight strands is very seldom seen, and
a knot with more tucks than strands is practically never seen, as such
a knot is difficult to work.
727. The Star is a unique knot; it appears to have no near rela-
tives. Primarily, it is a Lanyard Knot, but it is also tied as a Button.
(See Chapter 9 .) Ordinarily it is started by making round turns in
one strand after another, each turn being led around the end of the
previously worked strand. This makes the figure shown at the upper
right.
It may be found simpler to tie the first movement as follows:
Seize six strands together at the length required for the knot, using
one of these strands as a core. Turn the others down, and put on a
stop. Take any one of the five and lead it to the right over the next
strand and tuck it back under the same strand to the left, laying the
end up at the top. Do likewise with each strand in turn, working
around the knot counterclockwise. Then draw out the ends to form
the figure shown in the upper right diagram.
Next, crown all five strands to the left, and follow this by tucking
each end back under its own part as shown in the third and fourth
diagrams. Continue to lay each end parallel to and inside of the
adjacent strand to the right, and tuck the end down to the underside
of the knot.
Finally, lead each strand on the underside parallel to, and inside of,
the adjacent strand, and stick the end up to the top center. Lay up
the end as a five-strand rope around the core, or else make a Six-
Strand Sinnet.
728. The common methods of tying the Wall and Crown Knots
were given in Chapter 6 . By adapting and applying the customary
method of tying the Diamond Knot (#693) to the Wall and
Crown Knots the close relationship between these knots becomes
at once evident.
To tie the Crown by this method: Seize and open a three-strand
rope, and stop the strands a short distance above the seizing. Take
each end in turn, and tuck it downward, helically, to the right, under
the next adjacent strand. When all three are tucked cut the stopping,
draw up the ends, and it will be found that a Crown Knot has been
tied. By tucking each end under one more strand the Crown is
doubled.
729. The Wall Knot by this method: Seize and open the end of
a three-strand rope. Turn down the strands, and stop them to the
stem of the knot. Take any one strand and tuck it upward helically
to the right under the adjacent strand. Repeat with the rest of the
strands, each time moving the next strand to the right of the one last
moved. Draw up the knot, and it will prove to be a Wall, identical
with #671 in the last chapter, which was tied by the usual method.
730. The Matthew Walker, or Matthew Walker’s Knot as
it was first called, can also be tied in a similar way: Seize and stop
the three strands as in the last knot, and tuck each strand once as
already directed. Then tuck each strand once more helically to the
right in the same manner as before directed. This forms a Matthew
Walker Knot the same as #682 in the last chapter, which was tied
[ 130 ]
MULTI-STRAND LANYARD KNOTS
by the usual sailor’s method. If the ends are each tucked once more
under the next intervening strand a Full or Double Matthew
Walker is tied (#678), in which each strand has three tucks.
Walker
member
just given.
Take six (more or less) pieces of banding, eighteen or twenty
inches long, seize, or stop, and “Coachwhip” for a short length along
a rope or other cylinder of about half-inch diameter. The seizings
should be about two inches apart. Paste a piece of paper snugly
around the cylinder. The paper should be large enough to cover the
three seizings neatly, which hides the inert part of the knot. Turn
down the top ends of banding, and stop them about three and one
half inches down the paper sleeve that was just formed, and twist
them to the right, countercorkscrew fashion, so that they form a
45-degree helix.
Take each strand in turn, and tuck it up under the adjacent strand
to the right. Having completed one entire circuit or tier, tuck each
strand again under one, and continue to add as many tiers as wished.
The knot should now resemble the third or left diagram in the sec-
ond row. Six or seven tiers will be sufficient, as it is difficult to work
a knot if the number of tucks very much exceeds the number of
strands. Arrange the knot neatly, and take a one-inch strip of wrap-
ping or adhesive paper and wind it several times tightly around the
waist of the knot, before pasting down the end (fourth diagram).
Having added this sleeve, cut the stopping and remove the under-
neath paper sleeve. Working the knot constantly to keep it fair, pull
each end gently in turn. The standing ends at the bottom may also
be pulled, if they are not already made up into a rope or sinnet. As
the knot is worked, the seizings may be removed, with the exception
of the uppermost, which is permanent. Keep the edges of the knot
parallel and regular. When the knot is taut remove the outside paper
sleeve.
From these directions, Eugene E. du Pont, who had never made a
Matthew Walker Knot before, tied in my studio, without other
assistance, the Twenty-Four-Strand, Twenty-One-Tuck Mat-
thew Walker Knot that is reproduced among the frontispieces.
This is probably the largest Matthew Walker Knot that has ever
been tied. It would be impractical to tie a knot of this description by
the sailor’s method (#678) although it could be done by the method
given as #683, of which method this is an elaboration.
732 . A Double Single Matthew Walker Knot is tied by fol-
lowing the lead below the next bight to the right. Tie an Overhand
Knot in each end after you have led it, to assist in identification.
733 . A Double Full Matthew Walker Knot of three strands:
Tie a Double Matthew Walker loosely. Take any strand and lay
it parallel and below the next strand to its right. Tuck it up to the
immediate left of the strand that is being followed, and draw it out
at the top, immediately in advance of its own bight. At once tie an
Overhand Knot in the end so that the strand may be identified. Re-
peat with the other two strands, putting a knot in each end as soon as
tied.
734 . A Cube-Shaped Diamond Knot. Take four strands, seize
them to the stem, and tie a wall to the right. Having done this, tuck
each strand in turn over one and under one. Work the knot into the
form of a cube.
[ 131 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
735. A Half Round Diamond Knot. With six strands tie in the
same manner as the previous knot. Seize the strands and tie a Wall
Knot (#729), and then tuck each strand again, over one and under
one. Draw up into half round form as depicted in the top right
diagram. If the length of the knot is increased by additional tucks
it will lose its shape and become cylindrical.
736. A bag lanyard, quirt, or leash is generally tapered. It is started
at the larger end, and from time to time strands are “dropped out,”
one, two, or several at a time. While making, or when the sinnet of
which the lanyard is composed has been completed, the ends that are
laid out are tied into several kinds of knots: a single strand into a
running Turk’s-Head, two strands into Knot #792, three or more
strands into Footrope, Diamond, Star, and other knots of this chap-
ter. A variety of tapered lanyards are illustrated in Chapter 41, and
others are shown in photographs among the frontispieces.
737. A Diamond Knot which in texture superficially resembles
a Five-Strand Flat Sinnet (#2967) horizontally wrapped around
a vertical section of rope.
Turn down a number of strands, and stop them to the stem. Four
to eight strands are sufficient. Take any one strand and lead it in an
upward helix to the right, over the first three strands, and under the
next three, and lay the end out at the top. If preferred, tuck over two
and under two instead. Take the next strand to the right and do like-
wise. Continue with each strand in turn until all strands have been
passed. Work the knot taut.
738. A Diamond Knot variation (1). Take six or eight strands (a
knot with an even number is generally more practicable, since most
sinnets have an even number of strands). Seize the strands to the
stem, and tuck each strand to the right under the three adjacent
parts. The knot having been carefully faired, each strand is tucked
again in turn, over one and under three, then the knot is drawn up.
739. A Diamond Knot variation (2). Take a number of strands
(six or eight). Seize the strands, and then stop them to the stem
below the seizing. Wall them to the right, and lead each strand in
turn to the right, over four and under one.
740 . A Diamond Knot variation (3) with a twill weave. Take six
or eight strands (the left illustration shows four, but a greater num-
ber is preferable). Seize them twice, leaving a considerable space be-
tween the seizings. Take any one strand and lead it to the right over
the first two strands and under the next two strands. Move each of
the remaining strands in turn to the right in exactly the same way as
the first. Fair the strands, and then tuck each one again, in exactly
the same manner as the first time, over two and under two, until all
have been passed. Draw them up carefully, using a pricker at half
length, as the knot will distort if the ends only are pulled. The knot
may also be tied over three and under three.
[ 132 ]
MULTI-STRAND LANYARD KNOTS
741. A Diamond Knot variation ^4) that is an inversion of Sinnet
Knot #704. l ake four or any convenient number of strands and
move each strand in turn to the right over one and under four.
742. The next two numbers are based on the Footrope Knot.
With four strands make a crown and stop the ends down to the stem.
Take any strand and tuck it to the right over one and under one. Re-
peat with the other three strands. Tuck all four strands to the right
again, over one and under one, which forms a second tier. Repeat,
tying as many tiers as desired below the original crown. When the
wanted length has been tied, tuck each end up through the crown
to the top center, under two parts as illustrated.
743. A second knot based on the Footrope Knot. This differs
from the preceding knot in having a Wall Knot at the base. Having
been crowned and walled, the strands are tucked in tiers as before,
over one and under one, as many times as wished.
To double this knot: When the point is reached where the final
tuck under two parts was taken in the preceding knot, tuck under
one part only , and proceed to follow (parallel) above the adjacent
strand. When the knot is completely doubled, each of the four ends
is tucked under four parts (two doubled parts) to the top.
744. A knot tied in the end , outside and above the seizing. Seize
and open a three-strand rope, and put a stopping a short way above
the seizing. Tuck each end in a downward helix to the right under
the first obstructing strand. Then move all ends again*, over the next
strand and under the following one. Repeat as many times as wanted,
then stick each strand up through the center to the top. Make certain
that no two ends are tucked up between the same two strands; they
should erupt at regular intervals.
745. The Emerald Knot. This knot is so named because it is
closely related to the Diamond, but it appears distinctive enough to
enjoy a name of its own. The distinguishing feature of the knot is
that the strands at both ends enter or leave the knot at the surface
instead of the interior, as the Matthew Walker does, or from the
center at one end and the surface at the other, as the Diamond and
Footrope Knots do.
The strands require careful preparation before tying, but the
actual tying is quite as easy and much in the same manner as the
Diamond Knot. Take four strands and, having seized them, make a
right hitch in each and stop the working half of the hitches together
at the center. This is not quite so simple as it may appear, and it will
be well to lay the four ends out flat on the table in the form of the
second diagram. Having done this, work out some of the slack and
arrange as in the fourth diagram. Tuck all strands to the right over
one and under one (see lower left-hand illustration), and then tuck
them all a second time over one and under one. When making a lanyard
employing these knots alone, tie them at close intervals, without laying
up the strands between knots, and they will be most effective.
[ 133 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
746. Another knot based on the Footrope Knot may be tied as
follows: Crown three strands to the right, lay the ends down, and
seize them to the stem. Tuck each end to the right in turn, over one
and under three. After this, tuck each end up through the crown to
the center top as in the illustration.
747. It has been recommended before that Lanyard Knots in
which the strands at the end show a tendency to disperse should be
tightened through a Constrictor Knot, which is to be removed
when the knot has been satisfactorily tied. This illustrates the
process.
748. A Diamond Knot may be doubled somewhat in the manner
of the Knife Lanyard Knot. It will resemble Knot #737, but it has
twice as many parts as strands.
Having tied a Diamond Knot of four (more or less) strands, tuck
each end over the next strand and down through the next rim part
to the right. After fairing the knot, take a loop buttoner (ftggC)
and draw each end up to the right, over the first two intervening
parts, and under the next two parts. This should bring them out at
the top center.
749. A knot of herringbone texture , that is twice the width of the
former. Tie an over-two-and-under-two Diamond Knot (#737).
Then tuck each end down to the right under two rim parts. Finally,
stick each end in turn up to the right over the first three parts and
under the next three parts, which should bring it out at the top
center. The whole cycle of the knot is now alternately over three
and under three. The knot may require considerable gentling before
it will lie fair.
750. A Footrope Knot can be doubled in somewhat the same way
as Diamond Knot #748, the result being similar but reversed.
Crown and wall three strands in the usual way, then tuck each
end down through the top and to the right of the next end as indi-
cated by the arrow in the left diagram; finally, tuck up under four
parts as indicated by the arrow in the right diagram.
751. A Zigzag Lanyard Knot that is based on Turk’s-Head
#1378. The strands in this knot do not encircle the stem. They are
led in an upward diagonal to the left, and then returned an equal
distance in an upward diagonal to the right.
Seize six or eight strands twice to the central part of a sinnet.
Turn down the upper ends, and stop them below the lower seizing
as shown. Take any one of the ends that were just turned down,
lead it to the left over four strands, and tuck it up to the right under
one strand. Do likewise with each of its sister strands. Then tuck
each end in turn to the right under a second strand; repeat, tucking
each end in turn under one strand only at a time, until all strands
have been tucked four times to the right. Draw up the knot, and it
will appear as depicted in the right diagram.
752. A knot of similar aspect but differently tied. Middle six or
eight strands along the central part of a small core, and seize them
twice, two or three inches apart. Twist the strands into a right
(corkscrew) helix of about forty-five degrees. Lead the two ends
[ 134 ]
MULTI-STRAND LANYARD KNOTS
of one strand around the structure as pictured, and tie them together
with a Left Half Knot. Rotate the structure, doing the same in
pairs with the other ends. Then tuck each upper end under the next
strand to the right. Repeat until all strands of that end have been
tucked four times. Turn the structure upside down, and tuck each
of the opposing ends to the right three times in exactly the same
way. All ends having been tucked four times, draw up the knot,
removing the core, and lay the ends up into a sinnet.
753. These diagrams illustrate the difference in cycles of the sev-
eral knots that are under discussion. Number 753 is the Matthew
Walker Knot. It is an imaginary profile of two strands that have
made a complete circuit within the knot.
754. This shows the cycle of #745 and also of #752. In three
dimensions the two strands interlock.
755. The Diamond Knot of the last chapter and also #748 of this
:hapter conform to the profile at the left. The right side is #734
and #73 6 of this chapter.
756. The Footrope Knot, which has been discussed in both the
last chapter and in the present one, is shown here.
The illustrations on this page represent Sinnet Knots, which
differ from Lanyard and Stopper Knots in that the strand ends
are left free, being neither whipped nor laid up. Sinnet Knots are
designed to grip the several strands so firmly that they may be sepa-
rately employed, as in bag lanyards, cat-o’-nine-tails, and key guards.
757. The Diamond Sinnet Knot is the one most often seen. The
Sinnet Knot was both named and pictured by E. N. Smith in Log
Book Notes (1888). Generally the knot is tied in bag lanyards with
either six or eight strands; occasionally they have ten and seldom
twelve. Ditty-bag lanyards are sometimes tied with as few as four
strands. Nine strands are required when the knot is tied in a “cat.”
Usually each strand makes a complete circuit of the knot, and the
end is tucked under its own bight as illustrated.
758. Captain Charles W. Smith’s Sinnet Knot is tied in the man-
ner illustrated here. Each strand of his ditty-bag lanyard was passed
around the second strand to the right. His clothesbag (which serves
an officer as laundry bag) had eight legs in the lanyard. Each leg
passed to the right over four strands and then rounded the fifth.
759. Captain Albert Whitney first crowned the legs and then
tucked them up to the center reversely as pictured, to make his
Sinnet Knot.
760. The Link Sinnet Knot is crowned to the right and then
walled to the left. Double the knot by tucking the ends above to the
right and parallel with the crown. Continue to follow each lead out-
side its periphery, and finally tuck the ends up to the center as illus-
trated by the arrow in the first diagram.
761. Another Sinnet Knot. Seize a number of strands, and stop
the ends to the stem. Pass any strand to the right, over the next
strand and under or behind the standing part of the second strand,
tucking it up to the left of the working end of the same strand (the
second). Move each strand in turn in a like manner.
[ 135 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
762. Admiral Luce’s Deck Stopper Knot, from the 1884 edition
of his Seamanship , is no longer used for its original purpose, and, as
it has much in common with the Sinnet Knots of this chapter, it is
introduced here.
With three or four strands make a crown and then a wall; double
the crown by following the lead on the upper or inside. Continuing
on the same side of the lead, double the wall. Whip the ends singly,
if they are to be cut off, or else employ them for the legs of a lan-
yard.
763. A Single Crown and Double Wall. Crown and wall three
or four strands. Double the wall only, by following below the next
end to the right. Then stick the ends up to the right, under the two
parts that lie immediately ahead, which brings the end outside of the
original crown. If the knot has been correctly tied it will be found
that in the last tuck each end passes under four strands.
764. The knots of this and the preceding page have this character-
istic in common: the strands at one end enter the knot at the center
and at the other end disperse at the outer edge. The Diamond Knot
and the Footrope Knot of the last chapter also have this characteris-
tic, but each is the reverse of the other. This is also true of Wall
and Crown Knots. These two may be tied alternately to make a
handsome lanyard. The strands between the two center leads may be
made into two-strand rope or a Round Sinnet, and the strands be-
tween two outside leads may be left uncomplicated.
765. Manuel Perry’s Sinnet Knot is larger than Admiral Luce’s
(#762) and it may be tied with any reasonable number of strands.
With four or six strands the crown is closed at the rim, but with
twelve it is wide open and the knot shaped like an umbrella or a
mushroom. To make this, a Single Diamond Knot is first tied and
then a Crown Knot is superimposed. After this the diamond is
doubled or tripled by following below the initial lead, and the ends
are laid out without doubling the crown.
I have seen a knot of sixteen strands, tied by Manuel Perry, that
was commenced with an ordinary Diamond (#693), after which
the present Sinnet Knot was added above that.
The remaining knots in this chapter are original.
766. A knot with very pronounced center and rim leads. Seize
and crown four strands, draw the crown taut, and arrange the
strands as in the left diagram, which is the same as the first move-
ment of the Star Knot. Draw the knot taut.
767. Approximately the reverse of the preceding knot is tied in
the following manner. Turn the first knot and structure upside
down, and seize the strands at the length desired. Crown loosely, and
then tuck all ends as indicated in the right upper diagram. Hold the
knot vertically as in the left lower diagram, and tuck each end under
the first standing part to the right as indicated by the arrow. Then
stick each end in turn, as it lies, up under one part of the center
crown. Draw up these two knots evenly, but not too tightly, so they
are the same size.
The knots of this chapter have, so far, been of the sort known as
the “built-up” variety. The Wall or Diamond, and the Crown
[ 13 6 ]
MULTI-STRAND LANYARD KNOTS
Knot have figured in each, and the final knot has been built up by a
series of more or less simple movements, in which each strand in turn
has progressed one tuck at a time, and the whole knot has grown
progressively in much the same way that a mechanical product is
added to, as it passes along an assembly bench. But the remaining two
pages consist of knots each of which is a unit in itself. To tie these
I know of no simpler way than to bring the strands up through a
hole in a board and then to pin the knots out over the clearly denned
lines of a diagram.
768. A knot with a triangular cross section and three square faces.
Seize three strands only, and bring the ends up through the hole in
the cork board. Place them over a diagram that is about three times
larger than the original shown here in the upper left comer. Pin one
cord carefully along the lines of the diagram ror the complete circuit
of one strand, then add the other strands in turn and draw up the
knot with the rim part closed around the stem, mushroom-fashion.
If tied with four strands this knot will lose character.
769. The Lanyard Knot alongside is adapted from Multi-
Strand Button #624. To be suitable for such adaptation the outer
rim of a Button Knot should have preferably four bights or parts,
but this one has six. The standing part is led up through the hole in
the board, and, having formed the knot, the ends are led upward
and, after being drawn up, are made into a sinnet. The skirts of all
the knots on this page close downward around the stems, mushroom-
fashion.
770. A knot of four strands with an elliptical cross section based
on Button Knot #6 17. The stem is passed down through the hole
in the table or board, and the ends, after the knot is made , are stuck
to the top. This knot should be doubled. It will be found that two
of the strands that are required to tie the knot are much shorter than
the other two.
771. A Toggle-Shaped Knot of four strands. If it is required to
strengthen this knot a meat skewer of the proper length may be
thrust through it. Any knot of this size must be worked gradually
and methodically.
772. A Pocket-Shaped Knot of four strands. The diagrams of this
xnot and of #770 have much in common. Nevertheless, their differ-
ent shapes are both quite logical and require little prodding, provided
the knots are worked with precision.
It appears possible to adapt a section of almost any sinnet to form
a Multi-Strand Lanyard Knot diagram. A sinnet on end and pro-
jected into a circle automatically forms a Turk’s-Head, and any
single Turk’s-Head may be tied as a Multi-Strand Turk’s-Head
if wished.
A Multi-Strand Tukk’s-Head with the several strands symmetri-
cally arranged so that they pass out at opposite ends of a cylindrical-
shaped knot is potentially a Lanyard Knot. The ends may be laid
up into either a sinnet or a rope, or else merely laid out. The two
knots to be given here were first made as sinnets; later they were
made into Turk’s-Heads. (See Chapter 17.)
[ 137 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
773
773 . A Long Four-Strand Lanyard Knot with a square cross
section is based on Sinnet #2998 and Turk’s-Head #1390.
To make: Trace the diagram carefully on a piece of white paper
(see directions, page 22). Take a strip of heavy Manila wrapping
paper three inches wide and ten to fifteen inches long or longer
according to the weight and stiffness of the paper. Cut off the ends
of the white paper diagram flush with the two vertical lines, and
paste the diagram to one end of the wrapping paper even with one
edge. Roll the paper up with the diagram on the outside. When the
two edges of the diagram coincide, paste the end down. Hold firmlv
with elastic bands, and set aside to dry.
Seize a Four-Strand Sinnet, leaving all strand ends about two
feet long. Make holes where the four dots appear on the diagram,
and, using a looped wire, reeve one of the strands from the left end
of the cylinder out through a hole to the surface. Stick a pin at the
center of each rim bight on the diagram, twelve in all. Lead the
strand along its circuit, following the lead and the over-and-under of
the diagram. When the working end reaches a convenient hole stick
it down and out, to the right. Reeve the second strand through a
hole, and continue in the same direction as the first. Do the same
with the remaining strands, leading each, when it has completed its
circuit, out of the cylinder and to the right.
Using scissors, cut away the paper cylinder without disturbing the
knot, and draw all taut.
774 . A Triangular Knot tied with four strands. Take a piece of
paper eleven or more inches long. Start at the upper end of the trac-
ing paper, and trace the full length of the diagram, then add another
section to the bottom of the first tracing, beginning with the top of
the diagram and stopping at the dotted line which lies about seven
eighths of an inch from the bottom. The total tracing will be about
ten and one half inches long. Take a large mailing tube, if one is
available, and wind paper around it until it is the right size to fill the
paper diagram, or else make a tube of stiff wrapping paper as di-
rected for #773, but much stiffer, and tie in the same manner as
above.
[ 138]
CHAPTER 8: KNOB KNOTS. TWO-STRAND
LANYARD KNOTS
This is the knot sailors use to ornament the lanyards they hang their
knives from , when they wear them round their necks .
Caulfield and Saward: Dictionary of Needlework, 1882
The knots of this chapter are tied with two cords which enter at
the top or bottom of the knot and depart at the other end.
The quotation given above refers to the “Flat Lanyard” or
“Bosun’s Knot,” as it is called by sailors, or the Chinese Knot, as it
is called in needlework. The Chinese Knot is one of a large family,
the smallest of which is the Carrick Bend.
All the knots of this family have a regular over-one-and-under-one
texture that is termed basket weave . They are tied in a plane, and
their diagram forms consist of two sets of parallel lines, at right
angles to each other and diagonal with the sides, the knots them-
selves being rectangular.
There is only one limitation to the size and proportions of the
knots of this sort that can be made. The number of crossings in the
two adjoining sides of a knot cannot have a common divisor. If this
rule is violated more than two strands will be required to tie the
knot.
The name Basket Weave Knot has been applied to all rectangular
knots of this variety, of whatever proportions. The name Bosun’s
Knot is limited to knots having one more or one less crossing in one
side than in the adjoining side, and the name Chinese Knot is applied
only to a Bosun’s Knot that has three by four side crossings. The
Carrick Bend has two by three side crossings.
[ 139 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
There are two general ways of “building up” or increasing the size
of a Basket Weave Knot. The number or diagonals may be in-
creased by reeving the ends, which enlarges the knot in both di-
mensions, or the cord ends and the intervening loops of one side may
be extended and platted together, which lengthens the knot only.
Any Basket Weave Knot of two strands may be tied in a lanyard,
but the Bosun’s Knots have the ends of a single strand at two cor-
ners of the same side of the knot. So in order for the strand to pro-
gress from one knot to the next, that side must lie in the same
direction as the lanyard itself. The number of crossings along the
side will always be even. A corner crossing is counted in the census
of both top and side.
Any (A ±: 2 = B) Knot (with two more or two less crossings on
one side than on the adjoining side) can be tied, in which the number
of crossings of each side is odd; and as the cord in such a knot pro-
gresses diagonally from corner to corner, a knot may be tied either
vertically or horizontally to form either a lanyard, a net, or a fringe.
Although Basket Weave Knots are distinctive and handsome,
they have one characteristic that at times is a drawback. Being tied
in one plane, they are as thin as potato chips and have the same
tendency to curl and twist. To overcome this tendency I have ex-
perimented with similar knots in two planes, several of which will
be given at the end of this chapter. Among these are included two
knots of similar characteristics which require four cords.
But before proceeding with Basket Weave Knots we will first
discuss Two-Strand Lanyard Knots having other characteristics.
Two-Cord Lanyard Knots are often tied decoratively in black
silk cords. These are, or were, worn on spectacles, monocles, lor-
gnettes, watch chains, and guards, belts, necklaces, and hat cords.
Sailors use them tied in larger material, on knife, marlingspike,
whistle, and pipe lanyards.
775. The Two-Strand Wall Knot may be tied by the com-
mon sailor’s method shown here, or by the method shown as # 729 ,
in the preceding chapter.
776. A Two-Strand Matthew Walker Knot that was also tied
in the same way as #730 in the last chapter. This knot, besides making
a decorative Lanyard Knot, is a practical jug or jar sling. The neck of
a jar or bottle is gripped in the center of the knot.
777. By tucking each strand in turn, a number of times, the Two-
Strand Matthew Walker Knot can be lengthened, in the same
mannerthat the Multi-Strand Knot was lengthened in the preced-
ing chapter.
778. A Two-Strand Stopper Knot is made by tucking the ends
of a Wall Knot beyond an additional standing part, and then stick-
ing them up through the center. This gives four rim parts as against
the two of the Wall Knot.
779. A Double Wall Knot of two strands, with the lead fol-
lowed above, is quite different in character from the Multi-Strand
Knot. First tie the wall as in # 77 5 , then hold the knot vertically
and tuck the ends as shown by arrows in the two diagrams.
780. A Double Wall Knot, with the lead followed below the
first wall, closely resembles the Multi-Strand Wall Knot.
781. The Two-Strand Diamond Knot is tied the same way as
the Multi-Strand Knot. One working end is led to the right over
[ 14° ]
TWO-STRAND LANYARD KNOTS
the next working end and up through its own bight. The second
strand is moved in exactly the same way.
782. The Two-Strand Diamond may be lengthened by additional
tucking. The drawing shows the knot first walled and then each
strand tucked over the next standing part to the right and up
through the following bight. Knot #781 may be lengthened in the
same way.
783. The Two-Strand Footrope Knot is tied exactly as Three-
Strand Knot #696: “First a crown, next a wall, then tuck up, and
that’s all.” The tuck is through the center of the crown, and under
one part only.
784. The Crown and Diamond. As the next four knots are a bit
elusive, I suggest that the reader pin them out on the cork board and
tie them flat as pictured.
After the Crown and Diamond Knot is tied, the ends are tucked
up directly through the crown. The knot may be worked in flat-
tened form as pictured, or else worked into a four-sided form.
785. The length of the Crown and Diamond Knot may be added
to by further tucking. In this illustration each end is tucked over and
under a second time only. It will be well to stop the strands to the
stem before starting to tie the knot.
786. With two strands, crown the knot to the right, and then tie
a single diamond, well below the crown. After that tuck each strand
to the right under the next standing part and then repeat. This will
give three consecutive underpasses for each strand. Finally, tuck the
ends up through the crown to the center.
787. The Sailor’s Knife Lanyard Knot, also called Marling-
spike Lanyard Knot, Single-Strand Diamond Knot, Two-Strand
Diamond Knot, and Bosun’s Whistle Knot.
The several drawings alongside illustrate the common sailor’s way
of making the knot, which is also the most expeditious way of tying
it. Middle a piece of banding three feet long, and hang it over the
fingers of the left hand. With the right hand wind the back end
around the left hand and take a turn over the tip of the left thumb.
Transfer the turn that is around the thumb to the palm of the left
hand directly over the other part of the cord. Continue to hold the
turn in place with the thumb. Take the so far inactive front end and
lead it to the right, tucking under the opposite end and continuing
to the left, alternately tucking over and under as shown in the dia-
gram. Fair the knot as it now stands, lead each end counterclockwise
beyond the next part that passes around the back of the hand, and
tuck it up through the center of the knot. Remove the knot from
around the hand, and extend the loop that was originally around
the back of the hand until it is long enough to form a necklace. Then
draw the knot taut.
788. To double the Knife Lanyard Knot: Instead of tucking the
ends as in the left diagram of the previous knot, tuck them as in the
right diagram of the present one, then double by leading the two
ends along the inner side of the initial lead. When all except the back
loop and two rim parts have been doubled, tuck the ends as in the
left diagram. The knot is then drawn up. In both knots the surface
pictured in the diagram is the outside of the finished knot. The loop
at the back of the hand is extended to form a necklace, and the rim
is turned down to encircle the stem.
[ 14 1 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
789 . To conceal the ends of strands in a lanyard: This may be
done by looping the right end back, seizing the two ends and the
bight together strongly at the point where the knot is to be tied, and
then making a Three-Lead, Four-Bight Turk’s-Head around the
structure with the right end. The start for this is shown just below
diagrams of #790. When this point has been reached, turn the struc-
ture end for end and with the same end plat as $1316 until the eno
has been tucked twice; finally, stick the end as in the upper diagram,
which completes a single knot. If an irregularity is met while tucking
the second end, pass over the first end.
To double this knot, tuck the hitherto inactive end from under-
neath up through one of the center compartments and double the
knot with it, laying it parallel with the first knot. The last tuck after
the knot is completely doubled should be thrust underneath all to
the rim. Draw up and cut the ends short.
An alternative treatment that will give practically the same effect
is to seize the parts very firmly and cut them off. Then tie a
Running Turk’s-Head (#1305) over the juncture with a piece of
the same sort of material. This may be doubled or trebled if wished.
790 . To tie a Four-Lead Diamond Knot of any length with two
strands only: Take a short section of mailing tube (the tube from a
toilet-paper roll will do), and stick four pins equidistant around each
end.
Double an eight- or nine-foot piece of banding, and tie an Over-
hand Knot in it to make a loop at the center about six or seven
inches long. Drop the loop down through the tube, leaving the two
ends at the top. Lay the ends out opposite each other, and lead them
around two pins in a right diagonal of forty-five degrees downward
and parallel with each other. Round a pin with each end, and leao
them upward in a right diagonal. When the top is reached, round
the two empty pins that remain, and lead the cords downward in
a right diagonal to the two empty pins at the bottom. Round these
and tuck each strand up to the right, under the first opposite diagonal
encountered. Then work one end at a time and stick it over, under,
over, under, etc., to the top. The last tuck will be under the bight
of the initial lead. Remove pins, draw the knot off at the top, guard
against torsion, and work taut very gradually.
791 . This knot, which superficially resembles #737, is tied by
bringing the two cords of the lanyard up through the hole in the
cork board and laying first the end marked A and then B along the
[ 14 2 ]
TWO-STRAND LANYARD KNOTS
two arrow lines in the manner that has already been described. The
working ends are finally lifted to the top.
Button Knot #980 is tied at the end of a two-cord lanyard, if a
button is required for the final knot. If the initial knot is to be a
button, Chinese Button #602 or any of the Single-Cord Buttons
of Chapter 5 may be tied.
792 . A Footrope Knot can be doubled so that the surface re-
sembles a horizontal section of Five-Strand Flat Sinnet #2967.
Crown and wall two strands, and tuck both ends up, over and
under as illustrated. Tuck each end down to the right under the last
bight that was made by the other end. Lead each end to the right
beyond one standing part, and tuck up to the center. This knot is
similar to #791.
793 . A Two-Strand Knot that is like #791 and #792, except that
it is longer, is made on this diagram by the method first employed
in the Single-Strand Button chapter, and that has also appeared
several times in this chapter. Strand A is moved first along the line
of the arrow, being pinned to the cork board at frequent intervals.
Every time another part of the cord is crossed at a point marked
with a circle the working end is tucked under. Having finished tuck-
ing the first cord, lead the second cord in the same manner.
In working this knot, constant care must be taken to work the
bights away from the waist of the knot, as they have a tendency to
pull up underneath and destroy the lay.
794 . A knot similar to this, but unsymmetrical, was found in a
Japanese book. The knot was altered as given here to make it sym-
metrical.
Many of the Single-Strand and Multi-Strand Button Knots
can be tied as Two-Strand Lanyard Knots in the manner suggested
by diagrams #791 and #793. Such knots should not have more than
six parts around the rim, and four are better. It is not necessary that
they should be round, although most of them are.
Additional Two-Strand Lanyard Knots flanked or fringed with
loops will be found in the chapter on fancy knots. Chinese Priest
Cord Knots are another variety of Two-Strand Lanyard Knots,
but they are always tied with two sets of doubled parallel strands.
These are to be found in the chapter on mats, or two-dimensional
knots. Additional Multi-Strand Lanyards are discussed and illus-
trated in Chapter 32, “Square Knotting,” and Chapter 41, on applied
knots.
1 *43 J
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
794*4. Round Sinnet in short sections may be tied in a two-cord
lanyard by utilizing a loop to provide two additional strands for
the length of the knot.
Arrange the cord as in the upper left diagram, and then plat as
Four-Strand Round or Square Sinnet, which is the same thing.
The outer strands of either side are moved alternately. A strand is
led around the back, then forward and down across the front of the
lower of the two opposing strands, and finally down to the lower
position of its own side. If the method is not familiar it will probably
be easier to learn with four free strands (# 2999 ). When the knot is
of sufficient length, finish it off as in the two lower diagrams.
795. A Lanyard Knot, made from two interlocked Overhand
Knots. When completed, this turns out to be a Two-Strand Mat-
thew Walker Knot.
796. A Turkish Lanyard Knot. Although the knot is tied with
four strands, a section of the lanyard itself is made of the four ends
of but two strands, which are doubled back on themselves at the
knot.
The knot was tied in silk-wound silver wire and was found on
a string of black amber beads that were shown to me by Mrs. George
P. Gardner.
Ohrvall depicts the knot used architecturally in a Turkish stone
column.
797. A knot of two strands with six diagonal leads. Take a round
stick of wood about an inch or more in diameter and six or more
inches long. Drive four equally spaced tacks around the top edge
and a parallel row four or more inches below. Middle and knot or
seize a loop six inches long into the doubled end of a piece of band-
ing. Place the loop end across the end of the stick, to the left of
two opposite tacks, and lead the two working ends in a fight helix
to the bottom of the stick, and there round two opposite tacks.
Leave one end for a while, and tuck the other end in a right upward
diagonal to the top underneath any even number of strands (in this
case six) and round an empty tack at the top. Lead the other end
over all to the top, parallel with the last laid end, and around the
remaining tack. Tuck each end downward in a right diagonal, alter-
nately over and under (or under and over), to the bottom.
Remove all tacks, and slip the knot from the stick, ready to draw
up. Although there are six strands in the knot, four are in one diag-
onal and only two in the other. The number of crossings in the two
sets of diagonals is, of course, the same. There will be a slight tend-
ency to twist, but if the knot is worked gradually, this is easily over-
come. A cross section of the knot is oblong, and it may be differently
[ *44 1
TWO-STRAND LANYARD KNOTS
flattened, so that the center of the flat face may have the opposite
diagonal from what is pictured. This will be equally firm and equally
decorative.
798. The True-Lover’s Knot. There are a number of knots bear-
ing this name to be found in Chapter 31; this is one of the few that
do not have loops at the edges. Like #796 and several knots that
are to follow, it is made up of two interlocked knots, in this case
two Overhands.
799. Another Lanyard Knot composed of two Overhand Knots.
This is from a Japanese book.
800. A Horizontal Matthew Walker Knot of two strands. In-
stead of being led through the knot from the same end, the two
cords are introduced at opposite ends.
A Left Half Knot is tied with the two ends around a wire loop,
the loop being to the left. Two round turns are next taken with the
right end back around the wire and the Half Knot, which serve as
a temporary core. Insert the end that was just moved, through the
wire loop, and draw it through to the right, as shown in the first
two diagrams. Then take the other end and make two and one half
turns as pictured, paralleling the previous strand, but in the con-
trary direction.
Next, stick the wire loop through the knot from the left and
parallel with the end that was previously drawn through. Reeve the
second end through the loop, and draw it back through the knot to
the left side.
Work this knot very carefully and methodically, as it can be easily
distorted.
A knot of somewhat similar appearance that is easier to work is
used in making a rope ladder. It is given in Chapter 41 as #3834.
801 . The regular Matthew Walker Knot of two strands may
be tied horizontally and in outward appearance is similar to the
previous knot but is much shorter.
802. Captain Charles W. Smith’s Sinnet Knot, #758 of the pre-
vious chapter, may be tied with two strands and has somewhat the
character of a Diamond Knot.
803. A Flat Square Knot composed of two interlocked forms
that are really Overhand Knots, although they are well disguised.
Tie the left one first and arrange as pictured, then lead the right
strand down, following the arrow line.
804. Another Flat Square Knot in which the individual strands
are not complicated. Although superficially alike, in this particular
case they happen to be tied reversely. This knot is much flatter than
the former, and the center part is less in evidence.
[ H5 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
805. A Flat Lozenge-Shaped Knot of two strands composed of
two interwoven Figure-Eight Knots. Each face has two flat parallel
parts in the center. Although regular enough, this knot has an odd
shape that makes it distinctive. It might prove effective tied in a
cord fringe. A number of the knots in this chapter lend themselves
to this purpose. (See page 284.)
806. A very symmetrical Flat Lanyard Knot composed of two
Overhand Knots. Each face has two central parts.
807. A very handsome Two-Strand Chinese Lanyard Knot,
from four identical Half Knots. This is commonly tied in silk cord,
but it is occasionally tied in colored cotton cord for cheaper lanterns.
Take a long cord with a loop at the bottom, and tie four identical
Half Knots in a row (two identical Granny Knots) in the ends
of a cord, so that the cord corresponds with the left diagram, having
a long loop at the bottom. Turn down the upper Half Knot as
shown at the top of the right diagram. Reeve the bottom loop up
through the upper Granny Knot as shown in the right diagram.
Then reeve the two ends of the cord separately. The right end
passes under the right side of the original lower end loop, while
the left end passes over the left side of the original lower end loop;
the two ends are then brought together and are rove down through
the center of the lower Granny Knot.
In tying a number of these knots into a lanyard, leave each knot
loose until the one ahead of it has been drawn taut. This is neces-
sary, as the knots must be evenly spaced in order to carry the proper
decorative effect.
808. The Chinese Crown Knot is perhaps the most common of
Chinese Lanyard Knots. The cord is laid flat on a board, with the
two ends downward. The left leg is brought over the right leg and
a bight tucked back under the right leg. The right leg is then tucked
up underneath three horizontal parts to the center of the loop that
has been formed, and is tucked down through the bight that was
formed in the left leg.
809. The sailor ties the knot as a Four-Strand Crown. But as
the two sides of a loop must be worked instead of two uncompli-
cated strands, the technique is slightly different from that of the
ordinary Crown Knot. Lay out the cord as in the upper right dia-
1 14 6 1
TWO-STRAND LANYARD KNOTS
gram, and start the crown with the right half of the loop, which
is led to the left; the other leg of the loop is then led down (second
diagram). The left end of the cord is drawn up through the loop
and led to the right (third diagram), and the other leg is then led
upward and tucked under the first-laid part of the crown (fourth
diagram). This makes exactly the same knot as the Chinese one
(# 808 ). If the knot is turned over, a similar one may be tied on the
back, which makes a thick, practically cubical knot with two iden-
tical faces; this opposite face cannot be added by the Chinese
method. The Chinese method is quicker and for that reason prefer-
able when tying a lanyard of several single knots.
810. It required a long search to find a practical knot with two
faces precisely alike, both resembling the Chinese Crown Knot.
But when it was found it proved very simple indeed. Two Over-
hand Knots are interwoven, and the outer edges of the diagram are
brought forward and closed together.
811. The Chinese Butterfly Knot is tied in several sizes and is
arranged in a number of ways. It will be found further elaborated
upon in the chapter on fancy knots ( 31 ). This is the smallest knot
of the set and is here tied in lanyard form. It is of the same form as
the Chinese Crown but with the addition of two bights at the rim.
812. By adding two lines to the diagram to form an X across the
center of the knot above it was possible to arrange it so that there
would be a bight at each of the tour corners of the rim.
813. The commoner and best-known Chinese Butterfly Knot
is the one given here. It is generally tied either as a Terminal
Pendant Knot or as a component part of an elaborate design. In
both cases the loops at the sides and corners are extended to act as
a decorative fringe or else to interweave with the loops of other
knots.
814. By introducing one extra lead across the knot in either direc-
tion in the manner of Knot #812, making nine leads in all, it was
found possible to supply two comer bights that are missing in # 813 .
By closing the two ends at each corner of # 813 , these rim parts
will be present, but there is left no cord with which to form a lan-
yard. In the present knot both are there.
1 147 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
815. With the strands leading in the same tangent from the four
corners as in # 814 , the knot did not lend itself to tying in lanyard
form. After considerable experiment the knot alongside was evolved,
in which the strands entered near one comer and departed at the
diagonally opposite corner, but on the adjacent side. A little gentling
is necessary to make the center surface lie fair.
816. There was another possibility, and that was to have strands
enter or emerge from the sides at half length. This knot gave more
trouble than the others, since it is impossible to have more than
one end lead to a single line. An approximately central lead was
finally gotten by tucking each end through one of the side loops.
This method, of course, cannot be applied to knots in which the
loops are to remain extended in “butterfly” form.
817. The series of Flat Lanyard Knots to follow have been
termed Bosun’s Knots and are already mentioned at the beginning
of this chapter.
The Carrick Bend is the smallest of the series. There are several
ways of increasing the dimensions of this knot, to be given here, and
several others are given later in Chapter 30 .
Hold the Carrick Bend horizontally. Turn back the lower right
end, and lay it parallel and above its own part to the top rim of the
knot, -Turn it downward - to the lef t f and ky- it to the lower corner
of the knot with over-and-under contrary to the other end.
Take the lower left end, cross it up over the end that was just
laid, and lead it parallel and to the top with contrary over-an(L
under. At The top turm down to the. right, -and lead to the- lower
right comer with contrary over-and-under. This makes a knot the
diagram form of which is given as # 830 . To raise to a larger size,
repeat the directions just given. Each performance adds one bight
to each end and two bights to the top and bottom. The number
of bights at the top and bottom is always twice the number at the
ends.
81 8. The Flat Lanyard Knot, also called the Boatswain’s Lan-
yard, the Whistle Lanyard, and the Chinese Knot, is the next en-
larged size possible for the Bosun’s Knot. In needlework this has
also been referred to as the Napoleon Knot, undoubtedly because
it is larger than, and has features in common with, the Josephine
Knot. The knot is customarily tied in hand, the cord being held as
illustrated. The course of the cord after reaching the second diagram
[ 14 8 1
TWO-STRAND LANYARD KNOTS
is along the arrow line with the over-and-under contrary to that of
the parallel strand.
819. The Flat Lanyard Knot just given may be raised to yet
larger dimensions in the same manner described. Take either end and
turn it downward and back into the structure of the knot. Follow
the circuit and the over-and-under pictured in the accompanying
diagram. Do likewise with the second end. The size of the knot may
be increased by continuing to repeat in the same manner.
820. The Prolong Knot is so called because the knot may be
lengthened without changing its width. It is first mentioned by name
in Boyd’s Manual for Naval Cadets in 1857. C. H. Smith, in the
Artificer's Guide (1876), calls it the “Prolonged” Knot. Admiral
Luce, to whom the knot was apparently unfamiliar, added a letter e
to the name and gave a drawing, but he ascribed no purpose and
gave no description. Since a prolonge is a rope used in the field
artillery, most subsequent authors have attributed the knot to the
artillery and frequently have called it Gunner’s or Artillery Knot.
821. To prolong the knot shown in the upper left diagram ex-
tend the two bottom loops to the desired length and plat them with
the two ends into a French Sinnet. A knot is completed each time
the ends are brought to the sides (lower corners). The smallest is
the knot shown here, with four bights to a side.
822. To increase the length of the knot, plat again as before,
which will bring the two ends out on the original sides. Each time
that the knot is lengthened by crossing the ends, three bights are
added to each side.
823. Ocean Plat is the name given to the second start for this
knot, in the South Kensington Museum collection. A Half Knot
is its point of departure. With these two starts, every possible Basket
Weave Knot of this width may be tied. With this particular start,
the first prolongation is the Chinese Knot, which has four crossings
(three bights) to each side. Each time the knot is further platted
three; bights and three crossings are added to each side.
824. When tying any of the Basket Weave Knots, if flat material
is used instead of round, such as flat shoestrings, thongs, tape, etc.,
it may be turned over as each edge or rim is rounded, instead of
merely deflecting it, which is all that is necessarv with round mate-
rial. The result will be a straight edge at the rim instead of a series
of bights or scallops.
[ 149 3
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
825 . A belt in wearing apparel is often knotted, and the flat knot
shown here may be tied to furnish a means of buckling. The loop
at the end of the knot is seized in with silk or other thread (#2792).
826 . A similar knot, terminating in a button, is tied reversely at
the other end. The illustration also shows the knot tied as a frog,
but in a belt the knot is merely the final one of the series, and the
loop shown here at the bottom of the knot is really the continuation
of the two cords of the lanyard. The Terminal Knot shown at the
top right is Two-Strand Button #980.
827 . A wider knot for the end of a belt is depicted here. The belt
is started with this knot and is finished off with a similar one bear-
ing Button #980 on its end. The first knot and the final knot are
each the reverse of the other. Knots of this width are made and
lengthened as described for #830.
828 . This knot is similar to Knots #825 and #826 but is shorter,
having one less crossing on each side. It may be lengthened by ex-
tending the loops and platting as illustrated below.
829 . Knots similar to #825 and #826, and any prolongation of the
same form, may be platted directly without first tying a knot. Make
a right-hand coil of three turns and arrange as in the left diagram,
then plat as in French Sinnet #2977, bringing strands alternately
from either side and tucking them alternately over one and under
one. A knot is completed every time the two ends have been
brought down to the lower corners. Similar knots of greater width
may be tied in this way with the two ends and a larger number of
turns (or loops).
To tie all possible knots of this particular width it is necessary
to utilize another start, which has been shown as #828.
830 . Wider knots similar to the Prolong Knot and Ocean Plat
may be made with ten, fourteen, or more leads if wished.
Four starts are required to exhaust the possibilities of this par-
ticular width knot. Each has five crossings along the top edge. The
four starts have respectively two, three, four, and six crossings at
the side edges.
The knot shown here has four side crossings and may be made by
tucking as explained at the bottom of page 102, or it may be tied by
method #2248.
To tie by the method given alongside for two ends: Middle the
cord, and pin to the cork board over the diagram. Pin the left end
at (1) and lay along the line of the diagram, tucking under any
section of cord encountered at a point that is marked with a circle.
When that cord has completed its circuit, lay in the right end at
(2) and tuck in the same manner. The basic knot (left diagram)
having been tied, extend the bottom bights and proceed to plat as
French Sinnet (over one and under one). This knot raises first to
nine and then to fourteen crossings at each side.
831 . With two side crosses, the knot raises first to seven and then
to twelve crossings to the side.
1 150 ]
TWO-STRAND LANYARD KNOTS
With
to thirteen crossings to the side.
830. With four side crosses, tl
to fourteen crossings to the side.
833. With six side crosses, the
to sixteen crossings to the side.
While platting these knots ke<
the board.
834. A series of Bosun’s Knots (A dz i = B) may be tied in a
lanyard by platting with loops as well as ends. This method is quite
the most expeditious way of making the knot.
The first to be discussed is the narrow knot in which the number
of crossings along the side exceeds the number of crossings in the
top by one, the number at the top being always odd. Arrange the
cord as pictured in the upper left diagram. The right or bight cord
between the knot that is being worked and any previous knot should
be long enough to tie half of one knot, plus the distance between two
knots. This is actually a bight between the two knots and will be
spoken of as “the bight.” The unused length of the left or end
cord should equal merely the projected distance between two knots.
Take the left or end cord and make a Single Hitch, as in the
upper left diagram. Then take a part of the right or bight cord,
allowing extra material for half the knot, and arrange as in the sec-
ond diagram (top right). After arranging the knot as in the second
diagram, make a hitch in the bight cord close to it and weave the
left side of the hitch from right to left , over, under, over. Then
arrange the cord in a rectangular form as in the third diagram.
Take a hitch in the end cord close to the knot and weave it as
before, over, under, over, and continue under, over. Repeat with the
bight cord. Each hitch in turn is tucked under and over once more
than the previous one. When the knot is large enough, tuck the end
cord singly to the left; do not tuck a hitch. This completes the
knot. The Chinese Knot is the smallest to be made by this method.
835. A wide Bosun’s Knot in which the number of crossings at
the top exceeds the number of crossings on a,#side by one and the
number of crossings at the top is always odd.
Take the right cord and make a Single Hitch at some distance
from the previous knot, leaving the end at the bottom. Lay the left
cord under this hitch, and lead it to the right over the first-laid end.
The knot should now coincide with the first diagram. Proceed to
tuck alternate hitches over, under, etc., as in the previous knot; but
these hitches are tucked upward to the left instead of downward
to the left, as in the other knot. When the knot is of sufficient size,
tuck the working end instead of tucking a hitch. Each knot should
be worked snug and placed at the proper length in the lanyard be-
fore the next knot is commenced.
These knots are easily raveled by retracting the end and pulling
at the cords alternately.
[ 15 1 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
836. In tying a lanyard composed of flat knots arrange the lead
so that between two knots at one side the lead is over-over, and
at the other side under-under. This does away with the tendency of
the lanyard to twist.
To tie any knot reversely, lay the diagram face outward against
a windowpane and trace the form on the back, then tie knots alter-
nately first over the front diagram and then over the back diagram.
The two accompanying knots are the first successful ones in an
attempt to make thicker knots of this description. They have a twill
weave and are less apt to curl and twist than knots with a basket
weave.
The diagrams for this knot are marked with encircled points and
are to be tied by the method described as #830.
837. The first Two-Plane Basket Weave Knot that worked out
satisfactorily was the accompanying one. The two faces are not
replicas, one being flat while the other is beveled or chamfered at
the edges.
838. A Pillow-Shaped Rectangular Knot in two planes. The
knot is tied by leading one cord at a time in the order marked on
the diagram. There are two surfaces between which the ends may
be led to any desired point.
839. A Two-Plane Knot of 136 crossings, which is tied with four
cords. This knot is large and regular and has a machine-made appear-
ance that is, ordinarily, foreign to knots. Two of the cords are much
shorter than the other two, but this can be allowed for by turning
the lanyard over each time before tying the next knot. No general
rule for the length of strands can be given, since the length required
is dependent on the size and firmness of the cord used. Tie the
knot directly over a traced diagram, carefully following the over-
and-under sequence depicted in the illustration.
To make an encircled diagram by which to tie the knot proceed
as follows: Letter the four ends; make a light, single-line tracing
across the top, with a hard pencil, from left to right, A, B, C, and
D. Take a soft pencil (3B or 4B) and, starting at A, accent the light
line already made. Wherever the dark line is about to cross itself
note whether the section of line you are following should pass over
or under at this point to accord with the printed diagram; if under ,
draw a neat circle around the point. Disregard the light lines. When
line A is completed, continue with line B in the same manner, and
then with lines C and D. When the points have all been marked tie
the knot as already directed.
840. A Two-Plane Bosun’s Knot of 304 crossings. A photograph
of the completed knot is given among the frontispieces. The knot
is neither difficult to tie nor hard to draw up. Having formed the
knot and removed the pins from the projection board, pull the two
planes apart. Any irregularity in the weave will at once be apparent.
Examine the surface carefully, and if an error is found take a shoe-
string in hand and correct the error as directed on page 20 in Chap-
ter 1.
[ 152 ]
TWO-STRAND LANYARD KNOTS
[i53]
( 1 A
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
841 . A Pillow-Shaped Knot, with the cords emanating from the
ends. This is practically the same knot as #836, but the ends are
differently treated. The two ends are half knotted inside the knot
and are then led to the ends between the two planes or surfaces of
the knot.
If the two Left Half Knots, which are tied in the ends before
they leave the knot, are reversed and two Right Half Knots are
tied instead, the cords that now emanate from the left side may be
led between the two plane surfaces to the top of the knot, and the
two cords from the right side may be led to the bottom, which will
make a horizontal instead of a vertical knot.
842 . A Triangular Knot of the Butterfly variety, which makes
a handsome pectoral ornament for a knotted necklace. The method
of making this lanyard is also described as #3708 in Chapter 41.
The ends of the necklace button together at the nape of the neck.
There are three different sections of cord in the knot, two that pass
from top to bottom, and one which passes from the left top comer
to the right top corner.
If preferred, the knot may be tied with a single cord and with
loops at the upper corners. In this case it is ring hitched to the looped
ends of the necklace, which is made as a separate unit.
843 . A Right-Angled Triangular Pectoral Knot that was made
for Mrs. Lawrence Houghteling from which to suspend a Chinese
ornament. A short necklace is preferable with this knot. The upper
corners may be finished off with loops described for the previous
knot, to which the necklace can be ring hitched at the top comers.
The lower corner should have a small Lanyard Knot ending in a
loop to which the ornament is secured with another Ring Hitch. A
photograph of the finished knot is included among the frontispieces.
844 . An Equilateral Triangular Knot a little larger than #842,
to be used when the necklace is a long one. If tied too tightly, this
knot may tend to distort; for that reason #842 is preferable, since
it is fully as handsome and is simpler and firmer.
The form of #842 is also shown in the chapter on fancy knots as
a Terminal Knot and in Chapter 5 as a Button Knot.
[ 1 54 ]
CHAPTER 9: KNOB KNOTS. MULTI-STRAND
BUTTONS, TIED IN HAND
First a wall,
And then a crown ,
Next tuck up,
And then tuck down .
The Manrope Knot (Sailors’ Work Rhyme)
Steel (1794) and Lever (1808) both speak of Buttons being put
through beckets and clews, to secure the standing ends of running
rigging. Steel describes the knot that was then customarily used as
a “Walnut Knot, crowned,” and Lever as a “Double Walled
Knot, double crowned.”
Multi-Strand Button Knots are the last variety of Knob Knot
to be discussed. Like the knots of preceding chapters, their purpose
is to prevent unreeving, but unlike Single-Strand Knots, Multi-
Strand Knots are never untied. Wherever they are put, they re-
main fixtures. The strands of Multi-Strand Buttons are almost
always canvas-covered before the knots are tied. After they are tied
the canvas covering is generally filled (hardwood filler) and painted,
often in several colors; for although their purpose is essentially prac-
tical, the knots are usually tied where they will also serve dec-
oratively.
The knots which form this chapter are, with the exception of the
Star, of the built-up variety, being generally a combination of two
elementary knots. The Crown Knot is almost invariably one of the
two component knots, and the Wall Knot, in a majority of cases,
is the other. But the Diamond Knot is also common, and there are
several other knots that are occasionally used in combination with
the Crown. With these few basic forms, many different combina-
tions are possible. The “lay” of these knots is usually doubled or
tripled, and there is considerable latitude in the ways in which this
may be done.
[155]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
There are, moreover, two different ways of tying most knots that
are a combination of two. The commoner way is to have both the
Crown and the second component knot (Wall, Diamond, Foot-
rope, etc.) lead or rotate in the same direction, which is generally
counterclockwise. But another way, which makes a different knot,
is to have the two lead or rotate in opposite directions.
845 . A Whale or Wale Knot, according to the Naval Expositor
of 1750, “is a round Knot or Knob made with three Strands of Rope
at one End of the Tacks, Topsail Sheats and Stoppers, so they can-
not slip.”
Manway ring, Captain John Smith, Boteler, and the Anderson-
edited manuscript of 1625 (circa) speak of the Whale, Wale, and
Walnut Knot, names which at that date appear to have been ap-
plied indiscriminately to any of the Wall and Crown derivatives,
or to the Wall alone.
The Single Wall and Crown was the first knot of this sort to be
described.
846 . The tack is a large, tapered three-strand rope which hauls
forward and trims the weather clew of a course or lower square sail.
This is to prevent the sail from being taken aback. The knot is but-
toned to the clew (#2837 and #3397) and seized in.
The Tack Knot, as given by Steel in 1794, was a Doubled Wall
and Crown. To tie the knot: Take a three-strand rope, seize, and
open the end. Make a Wall and Crown as shown in the first two
diagrams, allowing the stem to drop down between the two middle
fingers and holding the knot in the palm of the left hand.
To double the knot, follow with each strand in turn below the
first wall and tuck as illustrated in the right upper diagram. Then
follow outside the crown with each strand in turn, and finally stick
all the ends down to the stem. I have found no evidence that the
knot was ever tripled, but there is no reason why this should not
have been done.
The strands of the Tack Knot were not covered with canvas as
most Multi-Strand Buttons are nowadays, and the ends of the
strands were left long and scraped. A part of each strand was
wormed, and the remaining yarns were fayed (combed out), marled,
and served over.
The practice of putting buttons in the ends of tacks ceased when
the tack itself was doubled and rove through a block at the clew. The
Tack Knot was later modified, and, having been differently applied,
its name was changed to Manrope Knot.
847 . Manrope Knots were first mentioned by Brady in 1841.
They were tied in manropes, which are ropes leading to either side
of the gangway. The knots provide a hdndhold for anyone climbing
the side ladder. At an early date manropes were called entering
ropes, a name mentioned bv Captain John Smith in 1627; for a while
in the nineteenth century they were called sideropes. The Manrope
Knot proper is four-strand, the strands being invariably canvas-
covered and trimmed flush at the stem. When doubled, the lead is
commonly followed on the lower or outer side. Generally the knot
is tripled, and often it is four-ply, but I have seen the knot tied with
as many as six ply on a pair of naval chest beckets. The earliest name
for the knot was “Double Wall and Double Crown.” Occasionally
it has been called “Topsail Sheet Knot,” and Norie, in 1804, called
it “Kop Knot.” Wetjen, in Fiddlers' Green , says: “A man who can
make a Manrope Knot, Star Knot, or Rose Knot is an object of
respect”— and at sea this statement still holds true.
MULTI-STRAND BUTTONS, TIED IN HAND
847j/ 2 . Left-handed specimens of the Manrope Knot are often
found. This knot is shown at the right of 847.
848. A Manrope Knot with the lead followed above is less com-
mon than one with the lead followed below. The result is a flatter
knot. Generally this knot is merely doubled, for if tripled it crowds
the center.
849. The Five-Strand Manrope Knot is also tied, and generally
it is doubled only. But with more than five strands the center of the
knot is too open to be altogether pleasing, and the knot tends to be
flabby unless it is made over a core.
850. On old chest beckets the Manrope Knot is sometimes found
tied with a reversed crown. I have one chest with double beckets in
which one only of the four knots is tied in this manner. In this case
it must have been by mistake. The knot, however, is pronouncedly
square and distinctive in character and is not at all an unusual knot.
A flatter knot will result if the lead is followed above when doubling.
851. A Diamond and Crown is an uncommon knot, and few
sailors tie it. It makes a larger knot than the Wall and Crown or
Manrope Knot and is usually doubled; for if tripled it may require
a core. There is an example of this knot on exhibit at the U.S. Naval
Academy in Annapolis.
852. The same knot tied with five strands may be worked into a
flat form to give a starlike knot quite dissimilar in character to the
last. A Two-Ply or Doubled Knot is quite sufficient; a larger knot
unless very carefully worked will not be firm.
853. The Vocabulary of Sea Phrases of 1799 mentions the
“Double Crown Knot.” A Crown, either doubled or tripled, forms
a Button Knot. The lead may be followed either above or below.
Although distinctive in appearance, it is hardly a practical knot.
854. Steel (1794) gives two different descriptions of a Tack Knot
(Vol. I, pp. 180, 182), one of which may be a Crown and Wall
with the ends tucked down at the center.
Multi-Strand Button Knots are used as terminal knobs for a
great variety of purposes, both practical and decorative. They are
found on yoke lines, bell lanyards, watch guards, manropes, chest
beckets, etc. Many of these applications are illustrated in Chapter 41.
For tying the knots of this chapter I recommend banding, the
material that is described on page 20 in the first chapter. After being
filled and painted, the strands are scarcely distinguishable from can-
vas-covered ones. Either a hardwood filler, shellac, or a coating of
casein glue may be first applied, and when dry this is followed by a
coat of paint. Whiting may be added to the casein.
Brady (1841), in describing how knots are doubled, says: “Fol-
low the lead until it shows three parts all round, and it is completed.”
Many nautical authorities recommend tying Button Knots
against the lay. This is contrary to the common practice, as ex-
emplified by the sailor’s knots that have survived. Presumably the
recommendation has been abstracted from Steel, who first pub-
lished it.
A left-handed man will naturally tie a Multi-Strand Knot in
right-handed rope against the lay , and a right-handed man will tie
a knot in a left-handed rope against the lay, because it is easier for
them to do it that way. I do not doubt but what this was the occasion
for the recommendation. A knot tied against the lay, in theory, is
a little firmer and a little weaker, but not enough of* either to be of
much moment.
[ 1 57 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
855. Make a double crown with the lead followed above. Next,
tie a wall below the double crown, and finally lead the ends above
the double crown and tuck them down at the center. The top of
this knot is pronouncedly triangular. Like #854, this is decorative
but not very practical.
856. Another interpretation is given here of Steel’s Tack Knot
(Vol. 1, p. 180, Seamanship and Rigging , 1794). It consists of a triple
crown and a double wall.
Crown three strands, and wall below them. Follow both the crown
and wall once around on the outside. Then lead the ends parallel
again to the outside of the crown, and tuck down to the stem. This
knot is very frequently tied but is usually unrecognized, being taken
for the Manrope Knot. Taper, fay, and serve the ends as in #846.
857. Bushell, in speaking of the Double Wall Knot, says: “Some
people will crown them, but there is no need of it.” This shows the
Double Wall crowned and then the whole knot doubled as a unit.
The Double Wall is first tied as #675, and the crown is super-
imposed. If the Crown Knot is undoubled, the result is a Rose Knot.
Doubled, this knot has a triple wall and a double crown. Compare
it with the preceding knot (#856). In the former the crown is triple
and the wall is double.
858. A distinctive Rectangular Knot of four strands. Crown the
four strands to the right, and then wall them to the left. After this
tuck each end to the right, through the bight of the original crown,
and finally down to the stem. Like many another good knot, this
one must be gentled into shape. Work slowly, and tighten each part
a little only at a time.
859. First crown three or four strands, and then tie a Single Mat-
thew Walker Knot. Follow the lead above the initial crown and
tuck the ends down at the center.
Ends of Multi-Strand Buttons are generally tucked out at the
stem and cut off flush; but on occasion, if a large lanyard is wished
with a small knot, three or four loose strands may be seized together
and the knot tied, after which the ends and standing part are laid up
together, making six or eight strands (or any even number), and a
Six- or Eight-Strand Sinnet is formed of the aggregate, leaving no
ends to be trimmed.
[ 158 1
MULTI-STRAND BUTTONS, TIED IN HAND
860. A “Thrice-Crowned Knot” is mighty like a Rose in appear-
ance, but in construction it differs essentially.
Make a snug crown, which forms the top center of the finished
knot. Crown below this, and then double this last crown by follow-
ing below the lead of the second one. Draw up snugly. The result
makes a handsome and distinctive knob.
861. We are now approaching the Rose Knot, an early form of
Button that was sometimes tied in the ends of deck stoppers instead
of Stopper Knot #674. So far as I know, this knot has never been
described, although it is referred to from time to time in the litera-
ture of the sea and was mentioned as early as 1769 in Falconer’s
Dictionary of the Marine . The Rose consists of a Double Knot sur-
mounted by a single crown. This much at least is known. But the
knot is the least standardized of all, and there are so many different
ways in which a similar result can be obtained that there can be no
certainty as to which was the earliest form. A number of the forms
given here I have seen tied; others are the results of my attempt
to identify the logical pretender to the title.
The knot alongside is the simplest form that I have seen. A
Double Wall (#780) is tied, and each strand in turn is stuck to the
stem as indicated by the arrow.
862. The Double Wall, crowned, may be the original and true
Rose Knot. Moore (1801) speaks of the “Double Wall, crowned,”
but pictures a Stopper Knot, crowned (#864).
The Portuguese apply the name “Pinha de Rosa” to the Double
Diamond Knot. The Swedes apply the name “Rosenknop” to a
Double Diamond and Crown. But both of these are Stopper Knots
instead of Buttons, and we know the English Rose Knot is the
latter.
863. The Stopper Knot tucked to the right without crowning
makes a very handsome flat-topped knot, that belongs in this series.
864. The Stopper Knot, crowned, is pictured by Vial Du Clair-
bois (1783) and by Moore (1801). Brady in 1841, speaking of the
Stopper Knot, says, “Some persons will crown them but there is no
need of it.” Bushell also speaks of this knot being used as a stopper.
Its claim to the name rose is at least as good as that of the Double
Wall and Crown (#862).
[ 159 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
865 . A Five-Strand Manrope Knot with a double crown and a
single wall. This crown is doubled in a way that has not been shown
before in this chapter. After a Wall and Crown has been tied, each
strand is tucked through the next bight of the crown to the right,
as shown in the left diagram. The ends are then tucked down to
the stem through the initial wall as shown in the second diagram.
When completed as directed, the knot can be doubled in the ordinary
way.
866. A Lanyard Knot, crowned, makes a handsome Rose Knot.
After crowning, the strands are tucked to the stem in the usual way.
867 . A Four-Strand Single Matthew Walker may have a
crown of the sort described and illustrated in #865 and, so tied, is
a very effective knot.
868. A Four-Strand Double or Full Matthew Walker may
be crowned in the same way as #865, or the, crown may be tucked
one additional part, which will make a fuller center.
869 . A Double Footrope Knot (#697), with the lead followed
above, may be crowned in one of the ways that have been described
to make a bulkier knot than has yet been shown. The crown should
be doubled, and the ends led to the stem, before the Footrope Knot
is finally drawn snug. Having worked the Footrope Knot, each end
of the crown is in turn tightened a little until the top of the knot
has sunk to the desired level. The ends may then be trimmed.
The Naval Repository of 1762 described a manrope of the period
in the following terms: “The entering Rope is suspended from the
Top of the Ladder by which you enter the Ship; and for the most
Part [is] covered with Scarlet Cloth curiously fringed and tasseled.”
It would seem that the rope described must have had an eye for
lashing purposes, instead of a knob, since a tassel could scarcely be
rove through the small hole of a stanchion. Later descriptions of the
entering rope describe a knot, however.
Manrope Knots are often mistakenly called Turk’s-Heads. This
is probably because certain sciolists have made the error in their
magazine articles, which have had a wide circulation. There is no
excuse for the mistake, as one is a solid Multi-Strand Knot in the
end of a rope, and the other is a Single-Strand Cylindrical Bind-
ing Knot around the bight of a rope. All they have in common is
a basket-weave surface.
In tying Multi-Strand Knots, do not allow yourself to become
confused. Tie methodically, one move after another. Do not be-
come impatient, for there is a lot to be learned. Not more than six
ordinary seamen out of a hundred could tie even a Manrope Knot,
and the Manrope Knot is about the easiest knot of the present
chapter.
1 160
MULTI-STRAND BUTTONS, TIED IN HAND
A plumber’s apprentice labors for several years before he becomes
a full-fledged plumber. At the expiration of that time, if he has
worked conscientiously and has talent, he is permitted to screw up
pipes and apply solder and may even have advanced to the point
where he rates a helper to carry his tools for him. Knotting is no
simple craft, and there is a great variety.
Most Multi-Strand Buttons are tied with canvas-covered
strands. The ends are sometimes tapered slightly, and the canvas
seams are turned, rubbed down, and sewed ($ 123 ). In working the
knots constant care must be observed to keep the seams on the
underside.
870. This illustrates a Four-Strand Double Diamond Knot that
has been crowned to form a Rose Knot. The lead of the diamond
is followed above, before the crown is added and the strands tucked
to the stem. If tied as described, a slightly convex top results. If the
lead of the diamond is followed below, the knot will have a some-
what different character, being possibly rounder. But the form is
largely the result of the way the knot is worked.
871. A knot with a double crown and collar and a single girdle.
First tie a single diamond (# 693 ). Above this tie a single crown and
stick the ends to the stem under three parts. Tuck up with each
end following below the lead at the rim. Then follow outside the
lead at the crown, and tuck down to the stem. This last tuck passes
under five parts. The parts forming the collar are double, and the
crown is double, but the upper rim is left single. In the left illustra-
tion the single parts are shown at the four corners.
872. A rosebud shape is secured by tying a single diamond and
adding a single crown above the diamond. Then follow above the
lead of the diamond, tucking down to the stem without doubling
the crown.
873. A bulkier knot is obtained by first tying a diamond (# 734 ),
tucking each strand to the right in turn, under, over, under. Arrange
the knot symmetrically, and add a crown at the top. Follow above
the lead, doubling only the diamond, and stick the ends to the stem,
leaving the crown single.
874. Another knot is tied exactly like # 873 , and the difference in
appearance is due entirely to the difference in the way it is worked.
The third tier of parts is pulled tight to withdraw it from the surface.
The top of the knot then automatically assumes a flat surface. The
side elevation of the knot is similar in appearance to a Three-Lead
Turk’s-Head.
[ 1 6 1 I
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
875. With four strands tie a Diamond Knot, under , over , and
under , as pictured. Turn the ends down, and double the knot in
tiers; that is to say, tuck each strand in turn under one part at a time,
until the whole diamond has been doubled and the ends are again
at the top. Then crown the four strands to the right, stick the four
ends down to the stem, and trim them.
876. With four strands tie Sinnet Knot #757. First stop all four
strands to the stem, lead each one in turn to the right over the first
three strands and under the fourth (which is the bight of the same
strand that is being led). Crown the four ends, and stick them to the
stem.
877. A very flat and handsome knot, the side elevation of which
resembles Five-Strand Flat Sinnet.
Seize and crown four strands to the left, and draw them up snug.
Next wall them to the right. Then tuck each end up as in the left
illustration. Ignore the first crown, and superimpose another right
crown outside the first one. Stick the ends down outside the first
crovm and inside the last crovm as illustrated. The first crown ap-
pears on the surface when the knot has been worked, making a per-
fectly flat top.
878. Captain Charles Smith’s Tack Knot was shown to me aboard
ship in 1904. At this time the original Tack Knot (#846) had been
out of use for its original purpose for at least fifty years. This fur-
nishes a good illustration of the tenacity with which old customs
and names persist at sea. Captain Smith knew what the Tack Knot
was for, although he had never seen one used practically. He had
learned the present knot about 1870 on his first whaling voyage.
I have seen examples of this twice, on old chest beckets and there
is an old sample of the knot in a hemp rope’s end in the New Bedford
Whaling Museum.
The knot is begun with a Wall and Crown* Eacn end in turn is
then tucked regularly over and under as indicates by the single arrow
line in the left illustration. Note that at the :hird crossing (which is
over) the lead appears to be over two parts, where the two parts of
the same cycle overlap to form the end and standing part. When the
knot is drawn up it will be quite regular. The ends are tucked down
at the center as shown by the arrow in the right illustration, after the
crown has been doubled or :ripiea.
879. A Manrope Knot with the wall doubled somewhat aftei
the manner of the Double Wall Knot has a character of its own.
First wall and crown in the usual manner. Then tuck the ends up
through the wall as pictured. After this follow the crown on the
outside with each strand and tuck down to the stem.
880. A knot of different character, but tied in somewhat the same
way, is made as follows: Wall and crown three or four strands.
[ i <$2 ]
MULTI-STRAND BUTTONS, TIED IN HAND
Tuck up each end in turn through the next bight to the right and
in advance of the next end. Then tuck each end down to the center
in advance of the second standing part to the right. The working
drawings show a Three-Strand Knot, and the final drawing shows
a completed knot with four strands.
881. Perhaps the most distinguished of sailor’s Button Knots,
and certainly the most individual, is the Star Knot. It is occasionally
mentioned in nautical fiction of the nineteenth century, but the first
illustration of it is, I believe, in Log Book Notes by E. N. Little
(1888).
The knot is tied preferably with five strands, but four and six
strands are common, and I have a pair of early nineteenth-century
chest beckets (#3639) bearing Three-Strand Star Knots.
To tie with five strands, splice an extra strand to the core of a
shroud-laid rope (#2660), or else seize stoutly and cut out one
strand from a piece of tiller rope or Six-Strand Round Sinnet. To
tie a Six-Strand Star use six-strand rope or sinnet or else tie it in the
doubled ends of three-strand rope. A Six-Strand Star may also be
tied in cable-laid (nine-strand) rope by cutting out the three central
strands. This leaves six surface strands with which to tie the knot.
To tie a Five-Strand Knot: Take any strand and, with the next
strand to its right, make a Single Hitch around the end of the left
strand. Take the next strand to the right and with it make a Single
Hitch around the second strand. Take the fourth strand and make a
Single Hitch around the third. With the fifth strand place a hitch
around the fourth, and finally with the bight of the first strand (the
end being already engaged) make a hitch around the fifth end. This
is shown in the first two diagrams. A less confusing way is to turn
down the five strands to the neck as in the third diagram, lead
any strand to the right, and tuck the end upward and back to the
left under the next strand. Repeat with each strand in turn, progress-
ing to the right. The form will be identical with the second diagram
after a little rearrangement. Next, crown the five strands to the left
(fourth diagram) and tuck each strand around to the right toward
the center and under its own part. Continue to follow the lead to
the right on the inside of the parallel strand (fifth diagram) and tuck
down through the two superimposed parts at the corner. Turn the
knot upside down, continue to lay the strand parallel as shown by
the sixth diagram (which represents the essential parts of the bottom
of the knot at this juncture), and stick the ends up to the top center
as indicated by the arrow. Turn the knot right side up again, parallel
the lead on the inside to the right with each strand in turn and
finally tuck the ends down to the stem under four parts. This is the
simplest of the several forms of the knot, but none of them is so
difficult as the diagrams suggest, since the knots are tied in easy
progressive steps.
[ ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
882 . Proceed as in the previous knot until the seventh diagram. At
this point a crown is added to the present knot. The crown is then
doubled by sticking each end to the right through the next bight as
shown in #865. After this the whole Star with the exception of the
crown is drawn up snugly in final form, and not till then is the
crown tightened, one strand at a time and only a little of each strand
at a time lest it disappear from sight. When completed the crown
should protrude slightly. Trim the ends with scissors.
883. The Star Knot is tied as before, and a single crown is super-
imposed. The ends are stuck down at the center to the stem, as illus-
trated, which doubles the crown. The crown is not tightened in the
least until the Star itself has been worked snug.
884. A Star variation. Having reached the position of the second
diagram in #881, proceed to crown the ends as in the left diagram
alongside. Then continue to stick each of the five ends as shown
in the two bottom points of the same diagram. Having reached this
juncture, stick each end down under one bight to the stem as
pictured.
885. A Double Wall Knot superimposed on a Star Knot. When
the initial Star Knot is completed tie a Single Wall Knot at the top,
lead the ends somewhat to the right, and stick them down to the
stem outside the first Wall Knot. Work the Star Knot snug. Draw
up the first wall so that the strands are well centered, and then pull
down the ends carefully so as not to spill the double wall.
886. A Star Knot with a single rim. Seize five strands and, holding
the structure with the stem aloft, tie the first movement of the Star,
as shown in the second diagram of #881. Continue to hold the knot
in the same position, and crown the strands to the left as shown in
the first diagram alongside. Stick each end down through the next
bight to the left as shown by arrows in the same diagram, and then
turn the knot right side up and lead each end to the right, parallel
to the proper strand, and tuck down at the center.
When under considerable strain, this knot tends to distort, becom-
ing somewhat concave.
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With the exception of the Star Knot, the knots of the preceding
chapter were built up of two basic knots, one superimposed on the
other. Generally these were doubled, and almost invariably one of
the two knots was a regular Crown. Occasionally the Crown was
tied first, but usually it followed a Wall Knot or, less frequently, a
Diamond or a Footrope Knot. Upon examination it will be found
that each strand of a Crown regularly passes over another strand
and under a second one, so that a diagram of any of these Crowns
consists of several symmetrical lines, each of which has two crossings
only.
The first knot to be considered in the present chapter is the Sprit-
sail Sheet Knot, which originally was tied in a block strap. The
two ends of the strap were brought together, and the six strands,
after being rove through holes in the block, were walled and topped
off with an irregular crown, two of the strands of this crown having
four crossings each, and the four remaining strands having two
crossings each.
Although the crown of the Spritsail Sheet Knot is irregular,
each strand has an even number of crossings, all crossings are taken
alternately over one and under one, and all the compartments are
either three- or four-sided.
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[ 165 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
So far knots that commenced with a wall have had the same
number of rim parts as strands. But knots that are started with a
crown have the same number of sides to the center compartment as
there are strands, while the number of rim parts may vary.
It is unnecessary, however, that either the number of center parts
or the number of rim parts shtfuld coincide with the number of
strands. Number 980 has a center compartment of four sides and
four rim parts and is tied with two strands only, while #1000 is tied
with two strands only, but has six rim parts and no center compart-
ment at all, having a cross at the center instead of a compartment.
887 . The Spritsail Sheet Knot was first given by Steel in 1794.
To tie: Seize two parallel rope ends together, open and wall all six
strands regularly to the right, and then crown them as illustrated.
The knot may now be doubled by following outside the original
wall and continuing on the same side of the strand without crossing
it. If any difficulty is encountered a study of the method of tying
described as #907 and #908 may be of assistance.
Work the knot into the shape of the lower left diagram.
888. Knots that are crowned in a direction opposite to the wall
are marked by a difference in appearance as well as structure. If it
is desired to tie a knot in this way it may be found simpler to reverse
the original wall instead of reversing the crown, the crowns being
always tied as in the diagram that is given. The top right diagram
illustrates a left wall, and below this is the diagram form of the
Spritsail Sheet Knot tied with a left wall and a right crown . Below
this is a picture of the completed knot which shows how rectangular
it becomes when the wall and crown are tied reversely.
In ordinary sea practice the Spritsail Sheet Knot was generally
tied as nearly round as possible. In this form it was put in messenger
straps (#889) and in the straps of tack, clew line, and spritsail sheet
blocks.
Sometimes the knot was tied in deck stoppers when they were of
cable-laid rope. In this case the three central strands were cut out,
and the knot was tied with the six remaining surface strands.
889 . The two ends of a messenger strap were buttoned together
with a Spritsail Sheet Knot after being rove through the eyes of
the messenger.
890 . If there are too many strands in a sinnet with which to tie a
desired knot, lay up the strands symmetrically in pairs until there
are the right number of units with which to tie, and make the knot
with these units. Then double the parts that are still single, and
triple the knot, finally tucking all ends to the stem as they lie.
891 . When there are too few strands for a knot that is planned,
stop a sufficient number of extra strands along the stem of the knot,
having them evenly distributed. These extra strands should be of
different color or texture from the permanent strands. Tie the knot,
and double or triple it without sticking the ends to the stem. Double
the lead of one of the extra strands with a convenient permanent
strand, after which remove the extra strand so that the knot is the
same size as before. Then remove and replace another strand. In
some cases, such as the Star Knot and the Four-Strand Diamond
[ 166 ]
MULTI-STRAND BUTTONS, TIED ON THE TABLE
and Crown, where each strand has an individual circuit, the method
does not work as it stands. In such cases employ one long working
end and reintroduce it after the knot has been tied, as a substitute
for one of the extra strands.
892. A Back-Spliced Wall and Crown. Seize and open a three-
or four-strand rope, and back splice (#2813), tucking each strand
once only. Then tie a Double Wall and Crown, following below
the lead.
This knot is sometimes seen on bucket ropes and does away with
the whipping that is required when a Matthew Walker knot is
used.
A somewhat similar knot may be made by first back splicing one
tuck and then tying (upside down) Lanyard Knot #684.
893. A Terminal Knot with a twilled texture. Take three strands
and tie a diamond to the left 9 leading each strand in turn over two
and under two.
Take any one strand, turn it down to the left, and tuck it over
two parts and under two parts, as oictured in the left diagram. Re-
peat with the other two strands.
Take any end and lead it upward to the left, over four and under
four, as pictured in the right diagram. Do not draw the knot taut as
yet.
Crown the ends to the right, and tuck each end a second time to
the right and then through the bight of the next strand. Finally tuck
them down to the stem. Work the diamond very carefully into
cylindrical form, and at the last moment, with very great care, haul
the ends taut.
894. Captain Albert Whitney's Rose Knot. Three long strands
are stopped at the centers and seized over the end of a small stick.
With the six ends a Diamond Knot is tied and doubled by follow-
ing below the lead. An additional upward tuck is given to each end
(over one and under one), as shown in the third diagram.
The stick is removed and the knot flattened out. The six ends are
walled above the knot just tied, and this wall is doubled. Each strand
is then tucked up to the center of the knot. Finally, the ends are
crowned again over all and stuck down to the stem.
The knot is then removed from the stick, and, after careful fair-
ing, the ends are laid up into a Round Sinnet.
895. A knot may be started as Captain Whitney’s Rose Knot
(#894), but instead of the final crown a Star Knot (#881 ) is added,
after the directions for the extra tucks in the right diagram of #894
have been followed.
896 . Esparteiro gives a Rose Knot with a crown of larger dimen-
sions than the Spritsail Sheet Crown. This crown was first given
by Alston in i860 for the purpose of finishing off the ends of fenders.
Seize an Eight-Strand Sinnet, and make “first a crown and then a
wall” as here depicted. Then double the crown only. Outside the
double crown add a 'wall and cronwn , and double these by following
above the lead. This acts as a frame for the first cro'wn and 'wall.
Stick all ends down to the stem, to the right of two of the parts
that bridge the space between the inner and outer knots.
[ 167 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
The remaining knots of this chapter are original. The series given
on the present page, and shown among the frontispieces, were de-
signed as hats for my wife and three daughters. One hat only was
delivered, as it appeared that they were a bit sophisticated for the
children.
897. The Daisy. Crown and wall, and double the crown only.
Draw up snugly.
Below this a wall and crown is tied, the lead of which is doubled
below and the ends tucked down to the stem as illustrated in the
third diagram. After this has been drawn up very tightly, the bight
of the last parts to be tucked (shown elevated in the third diagram)
is pulled out to the desired length to form the petals of the flower.
The strands are seized to the stem with a Constrictor, close to the
knot.
898. The “Propeller” is started the same as the foregoing knot,
but when doubling the final wall and crown, the lead is followed
above . The ends are tucked differently down to the stem immedi-
ately after crossing a single part as shown in the diagram. The knot
is next worked taut, seized, and the propeller blades drawn out.
899. The “Nosegay” is started in the same manner as the others
on this page. When doubling the final wall and crown the lead is
above the first-laid strand. After the ends are stuck to the stem and
the knot has been worked taut, the loops which form the leaves are
extended.
900. The “Sunflower” has a smaller crown, somewhat rounder in
form than the others. Follow the crown with a wall and then double
the crown only. Draw up taut, and add another wall and crown
below. Double this latter knot above the established lead, and finally
tuck to the stem, as in the “Nosegay,” but one compartment farther
to the right . That is to say, skip the first compartment and tuck
down through the second.
Draw up taut, and extend the loops to the desired length. When
converting this knot into a hat my wife frayed out the ends of the
sash cord, of which the knot was composed, and sewed them flat to
the underside of a wide pleated fillet or snood of unbleached linen
duck.
The more elaborate knots of this chapter are scarcely practicable
in the strands of ordinary rope. At sea “fancy knots” are apt to be
tied with log, lead, or codfish line. I have found banding (see page
20 ) a very satisfactory material for practicing knots, and for many
[ 1 68 1
MULTI-STRAND BUTTONS, TIED ON THE TABLE
purposes it is an excellent material for finished knot work. After it
is painted it has a texture very much like canvas-covered strands.
Many of the completed Stopper Knots of Chapter 6 and the
Lanyard Knots of Chapters 7 and 8 may be satisfactorily converted
into Multi-Strand Button Knots by crowning them and then
tucking the ends of the strands to the stem, or, in some cases, by
tucking the ends to the stem without first crowning them.
901. The Cauliflower Knot. Crown and wall six strands, and
then double the crown only, as in the knots on the two previous
pages. Draw up the knot, then turn the structure upside down, and,
in this position, tie a diamond with all six strands as shown in the
second diagram. This is to be doubled similarly to Lanyard Knot
# 1 20 .
To do this, tuck down over one and under one, as shown in the
second diagram, and tuck each strand up over two and under two, as
indicated by the arrow in the third diagram. Finally, turn back this
second knot around the neck of the first knot, and draw all taut.
902. With five strands make a crown like the diagram given here
at the left. Add a wall, and then double the crown only, following
the lead on the inside. Stick the ends to the stem, add a Star Knot
(# 881 ) below the knot already described, and finally tuck the ends
out at the stem.
903. Crown upon Crown. Seize six strands and tie two crowns,
one outside the other (see second diagram), and draw all taut. Turn
the structure upside down, and stop the strands to the stem as in the
third diagram. In this position make a crown and wall to the right,
and double this, following above the lead, the stem still being held
aloft. Finally, stick the ends to the stem as they lie.
Knots of the Wall and Crown variety generally require doubling
if they are to be firm. But if the centers are tied before the rims,
knots can be made that do not require doubling. The Single-Strand
Buttons of Chapter 5 are tied in this way; that is to say, the strands
are introduced at the center. Most of the Single-Strand Buttons
that have a square compartment at the center, or that can be adapted
to that arrangement, may be tied as Multi-Strand Buttons. But
Single-Strand Button diagrams in which the parts around the
center do not rotate in one direction do not easily permit the intro-
duction of strands at the center. Moreover Single-Strand Buttons
in which the parts around the rim do not all rotate in the same
direction may not be started with a Wall Knot.
L 169 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
904. Seize six strands. Lay the ends down, and tie a Right-Hand
Diamond Knot. Above the diamond superimpose a crown (also to
the right), and tuck each end down under a rim part, as shown in
the first diagram, following the parallel lead on the near side. This
is shown completed in the first diagram.
At this point work the knot taut and flat, as it is to be completed
before proceeding with the next move. Having worked it carefully
and progressively, proceed to pull the ends so that only right diag-
onals show, and the doubled parts which lead to the ends, and the
standing parts, are hidden. When complete, the top must be flat, and
in appearance like the center of the fourth diagram.
Turn the structure upside down, and stop the strands to the neck,
as in the second diagram. Allow the strands to hang downward,
and in this position tie a diamond to the right, as shown in the same
diagram.
Double this, as shown in the third diagram, in which the structure
has returned to an erect position, and finally draw up the knot.
Work methodically until the knot is regular and conforms to dia-
grams 3 and 4.
While working, continually force the final double diamond
downward, so that its outer rim closes tightly around the neck and
the inner rim is flush with the first-made knot. Finally, pull on the
stem and make certain that the top of the knot is flat.
905. Acorn Knot. Make “first a crown and then a wall/’ with
either three or four strands. Follow below the lead on the outer
periphery, until the crown is tripled and the wall is doubled. Turn
the knot upside down, and tie a diamond (#693) to the right , outside
the first knot. Double this, and work the knot carefully, making
certain that only the crown of the original knot is still apparent.
906. A Hybrid Knot that has some of the characteristics of the
Button and some of the Lanyard Knot, half the strands being
tucked to the stem and the other half being laid up at the top. Take
six or eight strands, and single wall and single crown them. Tuck
each end of the crown through one additional bight, then stick each
alternate end down to the stem under two parts. Stick the remaining
ends up to the center top after the manner of the Stopper Knot, as
shown in the third diagram. Each interstice between two standing
parts should be filled with an end.
If six strands were used, the three top strands might be laid up into
rope. If eight strands were used, the four left at the top might be
either laid up or platted as Square Sinnet. The strands of the neck
are trimmed short, whatever their number.
907. So far the knots of this chapter have been tied in hand. The
knots which immediately follow, through Knot #967, are tied on a
cork board or table, having a hole in the center through which the
stem departs out of the plane of the knot. The knots are first walled,
generally to the right, and then are crowned. The considerable vari-
ety in the shape and character of these knots is caused by the differ-
ence in the design of the crowns, since they all start with a single
wall unless otherwise stated.
[ 17° 1
MULTI-STRAND BUTTONS, TIED ON THE TABLE
An enlarged copy of a crown is made on a sheet of paper, and a
hole is pierced (with a pencil point) where each strand is to be intro-
duced. A single right wall having been tied, the strands are rove up-
ward through these holes in the paper diagram in their proper order,
after which the stem and Wall Knot are lowered down through
the hole in the cork board or table. The diagram is flattened out on
top of the board, and the crown is tied over the diagram, one strand
at a time being pinned at frequent intervals. After this the knot is
removed and drawn taut.
908. The knot illustrated here is Tack Knot # 846 , now called
Manrope Knot. Sometimes it is easier to double a knot before re-
moving it from the board. Often it is simpler to work it into smaller
compass before doubling, particularly if the strands are short. In
doubling, the lead may be followed either below or above as de-
scribed in # 672 .
909. A very simple Two-Strand Crown is given here, and the
knot is doubled by following below the lead, which is the common
way. The ends of the strands are tucked to the stem after the knot
has been doubled or tripled. The larger knots of this series, however,
are often left single, the pictured form being of ample size. Many of
the Single-Strand Buttons of Chapter 4 may be tied as Two-
Strand Buttons. (See #980 and # 1000 .)
The following knots are at first limited to a few strands, but the
number of strands increases as the chapter progresses, a Twelve-
Strand Knot appearing on page 1 80. If sinnets of more strands are
tied the strands may be seized and the superfluous ones trimmed out.
Beyond twelve- strands the knots become hollow and require a core.
910. A Two-Strand Button that is based on a Carrick Bend
Crown. After a Two-Strand Knot is completed the ends and stand-
ing parts may be laid up together into a neck of Four-Strand
Square Sinnet or else four-strand plain-laid rope.
911. A Three-Strand Button Knot. The crown that is pictured
here, if added to a single wall, makes the same knot as a Diamond
Knot with a superimposed single crown . The crossings in all these
crowns are taken alternately over and under. It does not appear
necessary to elaborate the drawings of each one. Sufficient is drawn
to indicate the order of the over-and-under. After the initial wall, the
first tuck of the crown is always over and then under.
Any diagram composed entirely of lines with an even number
of crossings is a potential crown for a Button Knot.
912. A larger knot than the foregoing, also of three strands, the
top aspect of which is somewhat similar.
913. A Four-Strand Knot that gives the same result as a Diamond
vnd Crown of four strands.
The forms of many of these knots are more or less inevitable, pro-
vided they are evenly worked. But some have to be prodded and
molded before they take shape. Knots, like children, should be
gently urged in the direction it is hoped they will follow.
[ 17 1 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
9 1 sr
914. This is a compact, Four-Strand Knot a little smaller than
the Spritsail Sheet Knot. These knots hold their distinctive forms
better when they are either single or double; tripling tends to “round
them out” too much.
915. It has been mentioned elsewhere, in connection with the
Spritsail Sheet Knot, that the character of a knot is often altered
if the crown is tied reversely. It was also suggested that the same
effect, but mirrored, may be gained by reversing the original wall
This makes it unnecessary to illustrate the crown tied in both ways.
The center diagram is a left wall, and the left diagram here gives the
complete diagram form of the knot tied with the left-handed wall.
The crown of both #914 and #915 is at the top center of the page,
and the single-line diagram at the top right is the complete cycle
of the knot with a right wall.
916. Knots of irregular shape are possible with an even number
of strands.
917. To exhaust the possibilities even of a four-strand diagram
would appear to be a considerable task.
918. This knot is both distinctive and practical.
919. Compare this with regular Turk’s-Head diagram #911.
920. A Four-Strand Knot built on an irregular diagram with a
three-sided center compartment. The effect, however, is quite
regular.
921. A somewhat conical knot of four strands with a three-sided
center compartment. Except occasionally at the center, the surface
of these knots is limited to three- and four-sided compartments, and
the texture appears quite regular, even though in the diagrams it may
appear uneven at times.
922. A Toggle-Shaped Knot.
923. A Saddlecloth-Shaped Button.
924. A Square Knot with a diagonal weave.
925. An inverted truncated Pyramid.
926. The Five-Strand Knots commence with a Five-Pointed
Star. This may be tied in four-strand rope by splicing an extra
strand to the core. It consists of a wall and a star-shaped crown . An
identical knot may be made by tying a diamond and a single crown.
This is shown as #852.
927. A different knot with the wall tied to the right, but with the
crown reversed. This makes a more pronounced Star than the last,
quite different in character and very flat on top.
928. A Half-Round Knot.
929. A Five-Strand Knot with a four-part center that is ap-
proximately round.
930. A Five-Strand Knot with a four-part center. Somewhat
elliptical in form.
931. A neat Five-Strand Knob with a three-part center.
932. A taller and larger knot than the last, somewhat egg-shaped.
Tie these knots tightly, and, if necessary, beat them into compact
and regular form with a wooden mallet.
[ 172 j
TABLE
932
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
933. Here begin the Six-Strand Knots, which may be tied in a
six-strand rope, in the two ends of a three-strand rope, in the six
outer strands of a cable, or in the ends of a Six-Strand Sinnet.
As a six-sided center compartment is too open to form a practical
knot, there is no regular wall and crown form in six strands to be
given.
This diagram form is similar to the crown of the Spritsail Sheet
Knot, with the addition of a triangle at each end, which makes a
somewhat longer knot. When doubling, follow below the lead.
Don’t tighten the two long lines of the crown too hastily.
934. By adding triangles to the sides instead of to the ends of the
Spritsail Sheet Knot crown diagram, a compact ellipse is formed.
935. With triangles, at both sides and ends, the ellipse is length-
ened.
936. A particularly handsome knot with a flat top.
937. A Melon Seed shape: to be worked as flat as convenient.
938. With the crown tied to the left on top of a right wall, the
knot is completely changed, being narrow and tall, and somewhat
like a military hat of the French Revolution.
939. Similar to #936, but more nearly circular.
940. A Pumpkin Seed, wider than Melon Seed #937.
941. A Half-Round Knot that is crowned to the left after being
walled to the right. The lead is more satisfactory if followed on the
right side.
942. A neat Circular Knot.
943. A Triangular Knot that was doubled, and the lead followed
on the outside.
944. The same diagram as the last, but crowned to the left and not
doubled. This treatment accents the triangular form.
945. The same diagram as the last with the addition of triangular
compartments at the side centers. After being doubled, the basic
triangular form is nearly lost and a well-rounded Knob results.
946. An attempt to make a Half-Round Knot.
947. A very regular Knob shape.
948. A Kidney Bean shape.
949. Toggle-Shaped.
950. Here begin the Seven-Strand Knots. Take a Six-Strand
Sinnet and temporarily seize an extra strand of other material to the
stem, tie the knot and double it, then replace the odd strand with the
convenient end of a regular strand.
If the knot is tied in a sinnet of eight strands, make one cycle of
the diagram with two parallel strands employed as a unit. This leaves
six strands to be doubled in the usual way.
951. A Seven-Strand Quarter-Round Knot, which in shape re-
sembles a wedge of pie.
952. The Heart. It is hardly necessary to name a knot, but it
assists materially in finding it a second time if the occasion arises.
953. The Grasshopper.
[ 174 ]
946
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
954. An Octagonal Knot that is the first Eight-Strand Knot
to be given.
955. A Square Knot with a diagonal lead in the crown.
956. A Square Knot. This crown should be familiar, having al-
ready appeared on page 167.
957. If a left crown is tied above a right wall, the square shape will
be more pronounced.
958. A Hemisphere, slightly elongated.
959. A Long Spritsail Sheet Knot with six cross strands. Be care-
ful when tightening the two lengthwise strands, which should follow
after the six cross strands have been tightened. The ends are bound
to pull downward, somewhat in the form of the kidney bean.
960. A large inverted Basket-Shaped Knot.
961. Here begin the Nine-Strand Knots, suitable for cables and
sinnet. This one should be beaten into a disk shape with a mallet.
962. A larger disk shape of nine strands. If these knots are intended
for out-of-door use, they should be tightened after a good pounding,
and then they should be filled (hardwood filler or casein glue) be-
fore shellacking and painting.
963. A Tetrahedron of nine strands must be worked laboriously
into firm and regular shape. It is about as big a practical knot as can
be worked without a core. Metal washers are practical accessories to
the larger knots.
964. Beginning the Ten-Strand Knots. A firm, handsome, regular
disk, the most practical of the three knots of this size. It may be put
on the end of a Twelve-Strand Sinnet after cutting out two widely
separated strands. In this knot, double by following above the
established lead.
965. A bigger and longer knot than #958.
966. A large Oblong of ten strands. The shape, not being inevi-
table, requires hard manual labor before it can be worked into satis-
factory form.
967. A somewhat similar knot of twelve strands. If more than
twelve strands are present in a sinnet I should recommend cutting
out some of them, or else tying a smaller knot, using units of
double strands. Even the knot shown here is inclined to be hollow
unless worked to the limit. But it is handsome and no less regular
than pictured.
968. The next few knots through #978 and excepting #972 are
based on elongated Diamond and Footrope Knots combined with a
crown and shaped somewhat like a cattail. Any of the smaller
Crown Knots of this or the preceding chapter may be lengthened
in this way. Number 968 is a Long Two-Strand Knot, crowned
and doubled. To tie: Seize and lead the two strands well down the
stem, stop the strands, and tie a right wall. Tuck each strand in turn
over and under to the right, and repeat two or three times until
the length is satisfactory. Then superimpose a right crown (which
in two strands is a Right Overhand Knot). Double the knot, fol-
lowing below the lead as in the fourth diagram. Pull the two ends
down to the stem, using a wire loop for a tool.
969. In somewhat similar way, tie with four strands. First make a
regular diamond, tucking over one and under one as many times as
wanted. Tuck each strand in turn over one and under one, a tier at
a time. Finally, crown and tuck the ends to the stem without
doubling.
[ 17 6 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
970. Seize a Four-Strand Sinnet, lead the ends well down the
stem, and stop them. Tie a wall, and tuck each of the four ends to
the right, over and under once, as shown by the single line in the
left diagram. Repeat this with all four strands, and then crown
them. Double, following the lead above the original knot. When
complete, pull the ends down to the stem with the wire loop, and
work the knot taut.
971. The Footrope Knot, tied in a similar way, does not have the
cylindrical form of the last few knots. It tends to taper somewhat
in the manner of a pointed rope. Crown four strands, stop the strands
well down the stem, and wall them. Tuck in turn to the right over and
under. Then tuck each strand over and under again. Double the
original crown by following the lead on the outside . Continuing
parallel, double the whole knot, which brings the ends out just
below the crown. Tuck the ends as they lie, into the center of the
knot and down to the stem.
972. This Long Terminal Knot is tied with three strands. Seize
the strands and tuck up through a short mailing tube. There should
be six evenly spaced pins around each end of the tube. Lead the
strands out at the top, so that one strand rounds each alternate pin.
Lead them downward in a 45-degree helix and round alternate pins
at the base. Lead all strands upward over all in a 45-degree helix to
the top, passing each of the ends around an unoccupied pin. Lay the
ends down again parallel with the first helix and round the remaining
unoccupied pins at the bottom. So far the lead has been over all.
Lay each strand in turn to the top, tucking it first under one, then
over one, and under one and so on, alternately, to the top. The last
tuck will be under one of the first rim bights. When all ends are
tucked, crown the three strands and stick the ends down to the
stem, as they lie. The knot will be of sufficient size without doubling.
973. A knot with a twilled surface. Lay down four strands in a
right 45-degree helix, and seize to the stem. Take two opposite
strands and tuck each up to the right under one . Take the remaining
two and tuck them to the right over one and under two . Now tuck
the first pair over two and under two. Next tuck all four strands
over two and under two, then tuck all four again, over two and
under two. The strands will now be in two different tiers.
Crown all four ends as they lie, and stick each one down to the
stem beyond the next bight to the right. Draw up the knot snugly
before pulling the crown into position, as in the left bottom diagram.
974. The next three knots consist of Long Double Diamond
Knots, in combination with compound crowns.
Seize five strands, or take a Six-Strand Sinnet and cut out one
strand. Stop the five ends at some distance down the stem below
the seizing, and there tie a Wall Knot. Tuck all strands upward in
a right diagonal, over one and under one, and then over and under
a second time. Add a star-shaped crown to the top, and double the
whole knot, sticking all ends down at the center, parallel with the
stem.
975. With four strands tie a diamond, tucking each strand over
one and under one and repeating this. Then, having crowned the
knot as in the diagram, follow the lead with the two end strands of
the crown below the first lead (imperative). Then with the two re-
[ 178 J
A4ULTI-STRAND BUTTONS, TIED ON THE TABLE
maining cross strands of the crown follow the lead above until the
whole knot has been doubled, when the ends are tucked down to the
stem in the usual manner.
No trouble should be occasioned by the fact that some strands
follow above and some below the earlier parallel strands. All that is
necessary is to remember that if you cross a strand that is alongside,
you are not paralleling it. When the knot is completed the crown
should be flat.
976. With six strands make a wall, and then tuck each end over
and under once only. Superimpose the crown that is pictured here
and double the knot, following below the lead and finally sticking
the strands down to the stem in the usual manner. The crown of the
completed top takes the form of a lengthwise arch.
977. The two knots to follow are Lanyard Knots that are
crowned and have the ends stuck down to the stem. Begin with a
Four-Strand Diamond Knot (# 693 ). Each strand having been
tucked in turn over one and under one, all four strands are tucked
again under one, and this is repeated twice more, so that each strand
of the knot lies over one and under four. Crown this knot, and tuck
the ends down to the stem.
978. With four strands, tie a Diamond Knot in which each strand,
when the knot is complete, has been tucked over two and under
three. Crown this knot, and stick each end of the crown through one
additional bight to the right. Tuck the ends down to the stem, and
draw the knot up carefully.
979. The diagram given here depicts the wall , not the crown,
of the knot. Heretofore the walls have been regular, so that it was
not necessary to show them. In this case an irregular wall is called
for. Copy the diagram, and stick the strands up through the paper.
Then tie the knot shown, and add a single crown. Finally, stick the
ends to the stem without doubling the knot. The result is a very
regular disk.
980. I found myself away from home one evening without any
cuff links, on an occasion when a black tie was to be worn. I was able
to find a pair of round black shoestrings and evolved the following.
I first tied, in the center of one shoestring, a Chinese Button Knot
(#601) which I doubled. I then drew a diagram of the Two-Strand
Button Knot pictured here. After tying it, I proceeded to double
it, following the lead indicated by the dotted lines. A hairpin served
to draw it taut.
In most of the knots so far shown in this chapter the number of
rim parts has coincided with the number of strands employed. In
this knot the number of bights at the rim is twice the number of the
strands.
Most of the knots in this chapter have had the standing parts
introduced at the rim, by tying either a Wall Knot, a Diamond
Knot, or a Footrope Knot. The knots on pages 179-180 have
the strands introduced at the center, which requires a different
method of tying. Some knots may be tied by both methods, but
when tied in different ways they will differ somewhat in character.
Generally a knot in which the strands are introduced at the center
does not require doubling, being sufficiently firm, while a knot that
; s started at the rim is less firm and should be doubled.
[ 179 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
981. A Long Toggle-Shaped Knot may be tied by first walling
and then crowning four strands, over the accompanying diagram.
This knot should be doubled .
982. But the same knot, tied with four strands introduced at the
center, does not need to be doubled. The diagram should be placed
on the cork board or table, the stem dropped through the hole, and
one cord at a time pinned along the lines of the diagram. At the
crossings repeat to yourself, “Over,” or “Under,” as the case may
be, and continue repeating, alternately at each crossing, and tucking
the cord accordingly. When one strand has finished its circuit, con-
tinue with the next one.
983. 984. Two somewhat similar knots that can be tied only with
strands that are introduced at the centers. These diagrams are not
suitable for the rim method, as different parts of the rim rotate in
contrary directions.
985. A small, exceedingly practical Ellipse that cannot be tied by
the wall and crown method.
986. A large, flat, and very compact Ellipse.
987. An Arched Disk which can also be tied by the rim method
but, so tied, will not hold its distinctive shape so well.
988. A knot that may be tied by either method, but changes char-
acter. The rim (wall) method is shown as #940. If the ends are
tucked beyond the second standing part the center will be fuller and
the knot firmer.
989. Here is another way in which to tie a Pentalpha, which
should be compared with #926 and #927.
990. A Triangular Knot of three strands and six rim parts. When
the ends are led to the stem, the knot will be improved if they are
tucked beyond the second standing part, as indicated by the arrows.
991. A handsome and distinctive Triangular Button of three
strands. This may be tied either as a Single or as a Double Knot.
992. A Square Button with crisp, angular edges. This should not
be doubled, as, when doubled, #956 and #957 have much the same
appearance and are simpler to tie.
993. The same knot as the last with the addition of bights to the
rim.
994. A Round Flat Knot.
995. A Square Knot with a diagonal weave.
[ 180 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
996. A Pentagon with very precise edges. Tie over an enlarged
diagram and tuck each end to the stem beyond the second standing
part. This requires a craftier hand than was needed for the three-
or four-sided knots, but if worked with care it should present no
difficulties.
997. A similar but larger design provides a Pentagon with a series
of ten bights around the rim. In this knot, as in the last, each end
should finally be tucked to the stem beyond a second standing part.
998. A Seven-Bight Knot with a five-part center. Surprisingly
enough, despite this disparity of rim and center, the knot is the
most successful large Disk shown. Probably this irregularity con-
tributes something to the success of the knot, for #994, which is
just as large and quite as round, has such a regular weave that it
detracts from the impression of roundness and suggests an angular
figure.
999. A Round Flat Knot that in form is a very short, truncated
cone. Tuck the ends of the knot beyond the second standing part.
This is clearly illustrated in the diagram.
1000. The remaining knots may be termed Sports, since they do
not conform to the arbitrary limitations to which the knot! already
shown in this chapter have generally been held. The present knot has
no compartment at all in the top center; instead, it has a cross. The
form is based on Single-Strand Button Knot #619, but it is tied
with two strands instead of a single strand. The strands are seized
and introduced through the hole in the board or table. If the knot
is to remain single after completing the diagram form, lead one end
over the center diagonal before sticking it down. If doubled, the knot
perhaps is more satisfactory.
Other One-Strand Button Knots may be tied as Two-Strand
Buttons by pulling down the center part, which automatically pro-
vides a four-part stem. Still others may be easily tied as Four-Strand
Buttons. Most of the Triangular Single-Strand Buttons of Chap-
ter 5 were originally adapted from multi-strand diagrams that were
already included in this chapter.
1001. This shows a very regular knob pattern that may not be
completely tied by introducing the strands either at the rim or at the
center, because one line of the diagram fails to touch either the rim
or the center.
To tie: Copy the right diagram, take a Six-Strand Sinnet, and
stick two opposite ends up through holes on the diagram at the spots
[ 182 ]
MULTI-STRAND BUTTONS, TIED ON THE TABLE
marked X. Wall the four remaining strands beneath the diagram
and around the two inactive strands, and stick them up through the
remaining holes on the diagram, in the order indicated. Crown as
shown in the lower right diagram. Then remove the diagram, and
double the parts not already doubled, finally sticking the ends down
at the stem. This is a very neat design, which presented a nice prob-
lem in tying.
The more elaborate knots of this volume were drawn on slate or
paper before they were committed to cord or rope. Some of the
knots have several hundred crossings and could hardly be tied off-
hand.
1002. A knot without any wall. Double the crown as shown. Six
strands are required. The knot is regular and of good appearance.
1003. None of the conventional methods appear to be absolutely
necessary for there is generally another way to tie any knot. If
strands are diverted, after completing their regular cycles, into other
cycles after the manner of the Monkey’s Fist (see Chapter 29) al-
most any regular design appears to be a possible knot. The present
diagram may be tied by the rim method with six strands. But by the
center method alone, only half the knot will be tied. To make with
three strands, by an adaptation of the Monkey’s Fist method: Make
an enlarged copy of the diagram, introduce the strands at the center,
and pin out according to the diagram. After each cord has been led
and doubled one cycle, it is diverted into another cycle. This makes
a successful knot that is superficially the same as #943, but it is much
more trouble to tie.
1004. The accompanying knot is the result of an attempt to vary
the texture of these knots, which has so far been regularly over one
and under one. The sequence in this knot, after a basic wall has been
tied, is over two and under one, or else over one and under two. It is
not a bad knot, but it was a difficult one to plot and draw up. It
must be worked skillfully and unhurriedly.
1005. A distinctive knot that has four six-sided compartments,
which are not, however, very apparent when the knot is completed.
Take four strands, wall and then crown them, as in the left diagram.
Tuck the ends as indicated by the arrow in the left diagram, pull
them and arrange the crown to take the form of the right diagram.
Follow the lead below the wall to the right, and after doubling the
entire knot stick the ends down to the stem beyond the first bight
to the right.
[ 183 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1006 . A Sport that has a character of its own. Seize four strands
and tie a wall to the right. Stick each strand up through a hole in
the paper. The holes should be about one and one half inches apart,
at the four corners of a square. It is not necessary to copy the dia-
gram as in this particular knot a diagram does not seem to help much.
Tie a right wall above the paper, and lead each strand an additional
right tuck around the strand ahead of it to the right. Lead each end
back to the left, tucking it parallel to its own part and through the
round turn, that is, to its left. The visible knot should now exactly
resemble the first diagram.
Tuck each end down through the original wall to the stem, under
two parts, as shown in the second diagram.
Double the original wall, following below the lead and to the left ,
and stick the end directly down to the stem, as shown in the right
lower diagram.
1007. The two remaining knots are depicted in two planes, one
over the other, so that, although the completed knots have a regular
over-one-and-under-one surface texture, the drawings do not show it.
This Square Knot is based on the Chinese Butterfly Knot
(#2460). The same form is also used as Single-Strand Button
Knot #631. A knot of somewhat similar appearance, but tied in a
totally different way, is given as #993; in the latter knot there are
two bights at each side of the square, while in the present knot there
is a bight at each corner and also one at the center of each side.
In working the knot, the central part may be gradually tightened,
drawing the material out into the bights around the rim. After the
knot has taken form, the superfluous material in these bights is
worked out.
The center of the knot will be strengthened by sticking the ends
down to the stem beyond the second standing part. This is indicated
by an arrow on one of the ends.
After the knot is completed, if the four strands were not originally
made into Four-Strand Sinnet, the ends and standing parts may be
worked together either as Eight-Strand Square Sinnet #3001 or
as Eight-Strand Round Sinnet #3021.
A Triangular Knot (#991 ) is tied by the same method as #993,
but a Triangular Knot tied by the present method is less successful,
since it does not close compactly at the center edges.
1008 . The Pentagon is tied in a similar way, but as it has a five-
part center it requires five strands. The Helical Crown Sinnet
(#2931) will provide the necessary strands, or the Four-Strand
Round or Square Sinnet (#2999) with a core added may be used.
An extra strand may be spliced to the core of a shroud-laid rope
(#2828) or a single strand may be cut out of a Six-Strand Round
Sinnet. The knot is tied in any of these materials in the manner of
# 1007.
[ 184 ]
CHAPTER 11: SINGLE-LOOP KNOTS
With this knott the bowling bridles are ?nade fast to the Creengles ,
but it is also used in any other Wayes.
Sir Henry Manwayring: The Sea-mans Dictionary , 1644
A Loop Knot is a closed bight that is tied either in the end or in
the central part of a rope.
It serves much the same purpose as a hitch, which is a knot that
secures a rope to another object. But a Loop Knot is a' rigid knot
that is tied in hand and placed over an object such as a peg, post, pile,
hook, or the lug of an archer’s bow, while a hitch is made fast di-
rectly around an object. Moreover, the shape of a Loop Knot is inde-
pendent of the thing that it is tied to, while many hitches will capsize
if removed from their holdfasts. So it is possible to use a Loop Knot
over and over again, which is the particular merit of the knot.
A Loop Knot often is called merely a “loop,” but a loop proper
is an unknotted closed bight. More commonly, however, a Loop
Knot is called merely a “knot,” as the “Bowline Knot.”
The number and variety of loops in the end and in the bight, both
single and double, are great— much greater than seems necessary, but
each individual knot tier has his preference. A loop will provide
a handhold or foothold, and it gives something to hook to. A Leader
Loop is required by the angler, and a Bowline is one of the most
used knots aboard ship. Most lashings are started with a loop.
Eye Splices are nothing but Multi-Strand Loops, to which
Stopper Knots and Toggles are buttoned and tackles are hooked.
Long Eye Splices and straps are doubled on themselves to form the
Running Knots and Strap Knots that are the rigger’s main reliance.
There appear to be only two well-known single loops on the
bight. One is the Harness Loop or Artilleryman’s Loop (#1050),
a knot that is used to provide a hand- or shoulder-hold in manhan-
dling guns. The second is the English, Englishman’s, Water,
[185]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
Waterman’s, Fisher’s, Fisherman’s, Fisherman’s Eye, Fisher-
man’s Loop, Love, True-Love, or True-Lover’s Knot (#1038),
which is an angler’s loop and rather a cumbrous one; but it is a very
well-known knot, mainly, I think, because of the manner in which
it is tied.
1009. The Loop Knot, also called Overhand Loop, is the simplest
as well as the commonest of loops. It is used in the home and the
shop when tying up parcels and on the farm and in general carting
for hooking the ends of lashings. It is not suitable, however, for rope,
being difficult to untie.
1010. The Bowline, Bowling, or Bolin Knot, sometimes called
Bowling’s Knot. The name is derived from bow line , a rope that
holds the weather leech of a square sail forward and prevents the
sail from being taken aback. As the line or rope that provided the
knot is no longer in use, the Bowline Knot is nowadays very apt to
be termed merely the “Bowline,” the word knot being dropped.
It is sometimes called Standing Bowline in contradistinction to
Running Bowline (Noose #1117).
Captain John Smith says of the knot: “The Boling Knot is so
firmely made and fastened by the bridles into the creengles of the
sailes, they will breake, or the saile split before it will slip.” But no
knot is safe that is not properly drawn up, which will explain prob-
ably the following contradictory statement from Alston’s Seaman-
ship of 1871: “With a heavy strain a bowline knot often capsizes.”
However, it is a fact that no knot is safe except under reasonable
conditions. Properly tied in ordinary rope, there is little or no dan-
ger of a Bowline Knot’s capsizing before the breaking point of the
rope itself is reached. It is so good a knot that the sailor seldom uses
any other Loop Knot aboard ship.
A Bowline is frequently used as a hitch when tying a boat painter
to a ring. On a whaler it is tied around a man’s waist to make a
“monkey rope,” which is required if he is to be lowered overside
for any purpose. When mooring, Bowlines are tied in hawsers and
tossed over bollards. Two interlocked Bowlines are a common form
of Hawser Bend. It is often said at sea that “the divil would make
a good sailor, if he could only tie a bowline and look aloft.”
To tie the knot: Grasp the end of a rope in the right hand and the
standing part in the left hand. Cross the end of the rope over the
standing part, and with a turn of the right wrist put a single hitch
around the rope end. Without shifting the grip of the right hand,
pass the end of the rope to the left under the standing part, then
down through the hitch that was first formed.
1011. The Standing Bowline. This name properly belongs to a
Bowline Knot that has been seized, as on a boatswain’s chair.
1012. If a Bowline is to be towed through the water a second
Half Hitch may be added. Wet knots are apt to jam, and the extra
hitch lessens this tendency.
1013. The Double or Round Turn Bowline is put into stiff or
slippery rope and is the same knot formation as the Double Becket
Hitch. It holds the Bowline together in such a way as to lessen the
danger of its capsizing, which is liable to occur when a Single Bow-
line is carelessly drawn up.
1014. The Hawser Bowline is a “trick” way of forming the knot.
A turn is formed in the standing part of the rope, and the end is
brought around a post and tucked as shown. The swing of a boat
will haul the knot taut.
1015. Alston, who complained of the unreliability of the Bowline
[ 186 ]
SINGLE-LOOP KNOTS
Knot as quoted under #1010, gives this method of tucking the end
of the knot to render it more secure.
1016. Luce and Ward, and also Nares, give this knot, based on
the Bowline, as the proper loop for the hook of a light tackle.
1017. The Angler’s Loop has the best lead of any loop and is one
of the best of single loops for the ends of small lines such as fishline,
twine, etc. But as it jams, it is not suitable for rope.
Take a long end (a little practice will show how long) and form
a bight. Hold as shown in the first diagram. Make two turns around
the finger tips, the first equaling the size of the proposed loop, the
second being snugly taken around the small of the knot. Lead the
large turn over the second turn and through the first bight, and pull
taut.
1018. Department-Store Loop. One of the commonest of Loop
Knots for tying bundles, but not a particularly strong one.
1019. Eskimo Bowstring Loop Knot from an ethnological report
(Washington, 1892 ). The same knot is given in Diderot’s Encyclo-
pedia of 1762 as a Weaver’s Knot for a loom adjustment. The knot
is also employed by anglers. Its merit is that the length of the loop
is easily altered, when necessary, after the knot has been tied.
1020. A Slipped Loop is used by anglers so that a leader does not
jam and is easily removed.
1021. An Adjustable Loop is another Leader Loop with features
similar to #1019 and # 1020 .
1022. An improved Englishman’s Loop (see # 1039 ). It is strong
and handsome but cumbersome. It may be untied by separating the
two knots of which it is composed and then capsizing them one at
a time.
1023. The Farmer’s Halter Loop does not slip and choke an
animal that is being led. A Single Hitch may be added around the
nose to allow easier leading. It is similar to # 1018 , but the loop is
rounder. In teaming, it is applied to hooks and stakes when lashing
a load.
1024. The Bowstring Knot or Honda Knot appears to have been
used by the aborigines of several continents. It is the most compact
and open of all loops. Mexican and American cowboys have adopted
it for their lariats and call it the Honda Knot. The end may be either
seized or knotted.
“Torn Bowling” confused the Bowstring Knot with the Bowline
Knot, so that, amusingly enough, the Bowling or Bowline Knot,
proper, does not appear in “Bowling’s” book!
1025. There are always people who believe that if a single thing is
good two are bound to be better. So they overburden their knots
with extra turns and flourishes. The accompanying knot, which is
often shown, is a good example of this, the previous knot being quite
adequate, and the latter no improvement over it.
1026. A Stopped or Seized Half Hitch is compact, strong, and
secure in large rope, and is much used by both sailors and riggers.
1027. The Midshipman’s Hitch, seized or stopped, is another
semipermanent loop, one of the strongest.
1028. An Eskimo Loop or Strap Loop, tied in rawhide. Make a
long slit near the end of a strap and a shorter slit in the bight at the
length desired for the loop.
Reeve the end through the bight slip for a short distance, next
reeve the loop that has been formed completely through the end slit,
and then carefully remove all superfluous turns and kinks from the
material.
[187]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1029. A decorative loop that starts with an Overhand Knot. Ar-
range the Overhand as in the left diagram, then tuck as shown by
the arrow. Draw up evenly. The eye that is formed is compact and
symmetrical.
1030. This Adjustable Bowstring Loop from the Orient was
shown to me by George L. Aspinwall. The Adjustable Loop is
made of a short cord that is added to the upper loop of the Bow-
string proper. The ends are regulated to suit and may be seized to
the sides of the loop. One leg of the Bowstring proper is inert and
is made fast to the bow just above the grip.
1031. A decorative loop, that is given in both French and Japanest
books, may be tied in the bight (see # 1048 ) as well as in the end.
1032. A decorative Chinese Loop. This is commonly employed as
a Lanyard Knot. It is handsome and secure.
1033. The Carrick Loop has the same formation as one of the so-
called single Carrick Bends. It is easy to untie, but it has no advan-
tages over others that are simpler.
1034. The following knots (through page 189 ) aie tied in the
end , with a bight . Many of them are suitable for pull exerted at
either or both ends. Start with a Clove Hitch (# 1177 ), and reeve
a bight as indicated by the arrow in the first diagram.
1034^2. In formation the Left-Hand Bowline Knot is similar to
the Left-Hand Sheet Bend (# 67 ). It is often tied directly around
a post, in mooring (probably by mistake), instead of tying a Right-
Hand Bowline (# 1010 ), to which it is distinctly inferior.
1035 . The Angler’s Loop (the same as #1017) may be tied in
the bight. It is started with a round turn as here pictured, or it may
be tied exactly as it was in #1017. There is no better loop for small
stuff than this; it is unsuitable for rope only because it jams. Only
the method of tying is original, but the emblem was adaed to fill a
vacant space on the page.
1036. Another excellent loop with a good lead: Start with a Clove
Hitch (#1177), and add halt a turn to the left hitch as shown in
the left diagram.
1037 . A good loop that starts with a Bell Ringer’s Knot (#172).
Twist the upper loop of the Bell Ringer’s Knot one full turn to the
right, and then reeve the lower loop up through the upper one and
pull on the standing part. Work the knot tight.
1038 . The Englishman’s, Fisherman’s, and Angler’s Loop, or
the True-Lover’s Knot. There is a story that goes along with this
knot that is given with Knot #2420. Middle a cord, and turn down
a bight. Twist the two center parts one half turn, and draw the
1 188]
SINGLE-LOOP KNOTS
bottom part of the original bight up through the two legs, as indi-
cated by the arrow at the right. Pull the knot that is formed in the
right leg down below the knot in the other leg, and draw all snug.
Although tied by anglers for leader loops, the knot is so bulky that
it makes considerable commotion in the water. Number 1017 will be
found better for the purpose.
1039 . An Improved Englishman’s Knot. You will have noticed
that the last knot consisted of two Overhand Knots, one tied in
each leg around the bight of the other leg (see #1022), and that the
knot as a whole was unsymmetrical. Tie it as shown here by the
arrows, and the irregularity disappears. The knot form will be the
same as Bend #1414.
1040. A second way to make the knot that has just been shown is
to form a round turn, with the upper single turn at the left of the
lower one. Draw a bight through the two as indicated by the arrow,
and then pull the right knot down below the left one.
1041. A third way to tie the knot is to first reproduce diagram
# 1040 , then turn the right turn over to the left so that the two faces
come together to form the present diagram. Thrust the looped end
down through the center of the turns, and pull the larger hitch down
below the smaller.
1042. The “Figure-Eight” Englishman’s Loop. A knot may be
made that will give a similar knotted aspect on both faces. Turn
down a loop over the legs as in # 1038 . Give each of the two loops
that are now formed an outward turn or twist, as shown here in the
first diagram. Then tuck the lower bight as indicated by the arrow.
Pull the upper loop down outside the lower one to the bottom, and
draw up the knot. Sometimes this knot will give a little trouble. You
may either retie it or else attempt to arrange the two component
knots into the form of the third diagram.
1043. A strong, secure loop that is tied with a bight and may be
put either in the end or in the bight of the rope.
1044. A very compact loop tied with a bight, for use in the end
only. It is made by tucking a doubled end very carefully to conform
with each of the three diagrams in turn. In these drawings or dia-
grams I have frequently shown the finished aspect of the knot in the
central position. Except for this occasional departure, the diagrams
are intended to progress from left to right and from top to bottom
throughout the book.
1045. Another compact loop, which may appear to be insecure
up to the very moment that it is hove taut. Hold it in shape until
snug, and it will be found both trustworthy and easy to remember.
r 189 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
The next two pages are given to single loops tied with a bight , in
the bight. Such knots are employed to supply a hand- or foothold,
or else to provide a becket to which another line may be bent or,
in the case of a lashing, through which another or the same line may
be rove and tightened. Loops in the bight may be tied in bell or
climbing ropes. On a picket line they will provide beckets that will
keep halters separated, and on a clothesline they will keep coat
hangers from sliding to a common center.
Generally the pull on the two ends of a bight loop is opposite, but
in the first three knots to be shown the pull is parallel.
1046. The Loop Knot or Overhand Loop is often used in the lash-
ing of a wagon load where both ends are to be further employed
1047. The Flemish Loop or Figure-Eight Loop is perhaps
stronger than the Loop Knot. Neither of these knots is used at sea,
as they are hard to untie. In hooking a tackle to any of the loops,
if the loop is long enough it is better to arrange the rope as a Cat’s-
Paw (#1891).
1048. A decorative loop in the bight, suitable for a handbag
handle. This is shown by Bocher; although made in the bight it is
tied with an end.
1049. The Span Loop. Start as if about to tie a Sheepshank
(#1153), make a Bell Ringer’s Knot- (#1 147), tuck it as shown,
and draw the knot taut. This is exceptionally easy to untie and is,
moreover, one of the strongest and most secure of the series.
A span, is made fast at the ends and is hauled at the center. It is
used in slinging and in rigging. The knot described is for hooking a
tackle block. Do not stretch the rope too taut, as a direct sidewis*
pull is too much for any tight-stretched rope.
1050. The Harness Loop was shown in 1862 by Admiral Luce,
who called it the Harness Hitch. It is an Artilleryman’s Knot,
to be used in manhandling guns on boggy and hilly ground. The
loops should be made large enough to pass around a man’s shoulder
so that he may keep both hands free. The knot may be tied in any
tow or climbing rope. It has been used by anglers for attaching
dropper flies.
1051. Loosen the Harness Loop, pull at either end, and the knot
will capsize into a loop that is almost round and which has a structure
identical with the previous knot before it was capsized, but with
ends and loop transposed. Both this and $1050 should be tied with
a much longer loop than is finally wanted, as considerable length
may be lost by slipping before the knot is nipped.
[ 190 ]
SINGLE-LOOP KNOTS
1052. Double Harness Loop. The Harness Loop is not secure
under all circumstances, and for that reason doubling the knot is
sometimes recommended. This makes a safer knot, but one that does
not tie so readily. There are a number of loops to be given here that
will be found more practical.
1053. Lineman’s Loop. J. M. Drew was the first to publish this
knot, and he is probably responsible for the name. It has an excellent
lead and is strong, secure, and easily tied; a better knot in every way
than the Harness Loop.
1054. The Farmer’s Loop is shown by Professor Howard W.
Riley in a Cornell reading course pamphlet of 1912, which is devoted
to knots employed on the farm. The knot is a good one on all three
counts— lead, security, and strength. Moreover, the method of tying
it is both ingenious and distinctive, and, once mastered, it is not apt
to be forgotten.
To tie: Take three turns around the left arm or hand, according
to the size of the material being used. Move the center turn to the
outside three times, as indicated by the arrows, first right, then left,
and finally right again. Finally, pull out (extend) the center turn,
and the knot is ready for use.
1055. A Bight Loop. Another Loop Knot in the bight that it
somewhat similar in aspect is made by laying out the cord on a
figure-eight diagram, but without tucking the lower end. Tuck the
upper bight as indicated by the arrow in the first diagram, and ex-
tend it to form the loop that is shown.
1056. A Loop Knot in the bight, which is started in the same wav
as the last knot, but with the bight, although tucked under the same
part, tucked in the opposite direction. The result is a knot similar to
Professor Riley’s Farmer’s Loop (#1054).
1057. The Single Bowline on the bight . There are a number of
knots that have been given this title, including the Harness Loop
(#1050), but none of them have parallel ends, as the real (Double)
Bowline on the bight has. The present knot is from Esparteiro. Al-
though it is a good knot, it tends to distort when the pull is on
opposite ends.
1058. The Single Bowline on the bight . This knot, in appearance
at least, appears to have a better claim to the title than the others. It
should be drawn up snugly and evenly and is not difficult to untie.
[ 191 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1059. A single loop in the bight that is made from a Constrictor
Knot. First tie a Constrictor Knot, and then reeve either of the
loops down through the other. The left diagram shows the Con-
strictor Knot opened out flat, with the upper loop about to be
passed through the lower one.
The merit of this particular knot is its almost absolute symmetry.
The loop is at right angles to the rope or cord, and there is no ir-
regularity apparent. It must be worked carefully by drawing on all
four parts: that is, the two ends of the loop and the two ends of the
rope.
This same knot tied as an end loop is given as # 1045 , but tied in
the bight a Single Hitch remains visible at the upper part, so that
the relationship is scarcely noticeable.
1060. The remainder of the knots of this chapter are tied into the
bight by employing the ends, so they are not proper “Bight Knots.”
Since this also entails an additional amount of labor, the knots may
be considered decorative rather than practical. These may be used
on necklaces, and ring hitched to lockets, crosses, etc. The present
one starts with an Overhand Knot. The bight is rove through the
crown to form a loop and is then given a strong right-hand twist and
the ends hauled taut. If the loop is given a left twist the knot will
tend to slip.
1061. A similar knot is started with a Double Overhand Knot.
This may have either parallel or opposite ends. In either case, the
loop should be given a right twist.
1062. A round, rigid loop with parallel ends. Tie a Left Half
Knot, and tuck the ends progressively as indicated by arrows in the
diagrams.
1063. Tie a Left Half Knot, lay it flat on the table, and give the
loop a half twist to the right as shown in the left diagram. Reeve the
ends first through the loop and then downward, as pictured.
1064. The knot given here has much in common with the Dia-
mond Knot, but if tied with more than two strands it is difficult
to draw up. The two ends are splayed.
1065. A Two-Strand Matthew Walker Knot that is tucked
several times. It is tied as described in Chapter 8 as # 777 . In a similar
way a loop may be started with any of the Two-Strand Lanyard
Knots of that chapter, and any small ornament or implement may
be ring hitched to the loop.
1066. The Chinese Crown Loop is distinctive and decorative.
The method of tying it is described as #808 in Chapter 8 .
1067. The Sinnet Knot described as #757 is another Lanyard
Knot that, tied with two strands only, may be recommended for
decorative use. The loop may be of any practical length. Another
very handsome loop from the same chapter is Knife Lanyard Knot
# 787 .
[ T 9 2 1
CHAPTER 12: DOUBLE- AND MULTIPLE-LOOP
KNOTS
Nor aine skild in Loupes of fingring fine,
Might in their divers cunning ever dare
With this so curious Networke to compare .
Edmund Spenser
There are only two well-known Double Loops, and both of these
are tied in the bight. They are the Bowline on the bight and the
Spanish Bowline.
1068. The Double Bowstring Knot is a Double Loop tied in the
end of a bowstring. Start with Knot #1024, and tuck the end
through the knot a second time as shown. It does not appear to be
any improvement over the single knot.
1069. A Forked Loop. A Single Hitch is made and thrust half-
way through the initial Overhand Knot.
1070. The Double Angler’s Loop is the same knot form as the
Single Angler’s Loop (#1017), except that two turns instead of
one are taken around the fingers, and both of these are thrust
through the initial end loop.
1071. A Forked Loop similar to the foregoing is started with
Noose Knot #1114, and a long working end. Two drawings of the
finished aspect of this knot are given.
1072 . The Portuguese Bowline is tied in the end of a rope. Al-
though a sailor’s knot, it appears to be little known among English-
speaking seamen. I first saw it used as an Anchor Bend by the
quahog boats of the “Portuguese Navy Yard” in New Bedford.
Felix Riesenberg mentions it in Under Sail (1915) and describes it in
Standard Seamanship (1922) under the name “French Bowline.”
He points out that the knot makes an excellent emergency boat-
swain’s chair. A man may sit in one loop, while the other loop pro-
vides a back to his chair. Bandeira gives a drawing of the knot in
Tratado de Apparelho do Navio (Lisbon, 1896). After making a
round turn with the left hand, the knot is tied in much the same
way as the ordinary Bowline.
1073. This has the same knot formation as the foregoing, but the
loops are splayed, instead of being parallel to each other.
[ 193 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1074. The Bowline with a bight is tied in the end of a pendant to
which to hook a tackle. Whenever possible a hook should have a
double bearing when it is to be hitched to a rope. The loops should
be of equal length for otherwise the wear on them will be uneven.
1075. Bowline on the bight and Bowline. Tie Knot #1080 near
the end of a rope. Then take the end, and with it tie Bowline
# 10 1 o to the standing part of the rope.
1076. A Multiple Loop starting from a small coil. Make a coil of
several turns that are twice the length and half the number of the
final loops. Middle and fold the coil and with the standing end make
a small right turn at the top of the doubled coil (as in the first dia-
gram), then bring the standing end of the rope around the back
and stick it through the small right turn and the top of the coil. This
makes a practical and reasonably firm knot if the number of loops
is not too large.
1077. Multiple Parallel Loops, from a coil. Make a number
of turns, of the size and number required. Stick the standing part
down through the coil. Take the bottom of the last turn and give it
a half turn to the right as in the left diagram. Spread open the loop
that was just formed and bring all the lower end of the coil up
through it as shown in the third diagram. Draw the knot taut. Either
this or the previous knot will be sufficiently firm for ordinary usage
but if objects of different weights are to be suspended from the dif-
ferent loops the present one is the more dependable of the two. It
may be made fast to a rafter and any number of blocks or tackles
suspended from it.
1078. A Double Loop in the end of a strap. Split the end of a
strap or thong for a distance a little greater than the circumference
of one of the loops that are to be made. Tie a Right Overhand Knot
in the end of the strap near the upper end of the slit. Arrange as in
the left diagram and lay the end back, underneath. Open the slit
end as in right diagram. Loosen the Overhand Knot and extend the
bight as indicated by the arrow down through the slit end, gather-
ing the material for this from the slit end itself and from the standing
part. Take out all unwanted twists and turns before drawing the
knot taut. This is tied exactly as the Bowline in the bight (# 1082 ).
So if difficulty is encountered a study of that knot, which is tied in
rope, may serve to make this one clearer.
[ 194 1
DOUBLE- AND MULTIPLE-LOOP KNOTS
1079. Sister Loops. Double back one end of a short rope. Treat
the doubled end as if it were the standing part of the rope and tie
a Bowline to it with the other end. Then adjust the length of the
loops before drawing taut.
This brings us to Double and Multiple Loops tied in the bight,
a much more prolific family than Double and Multiple Loops tied
in the end. In fact there seems to be no end to the number of knots
of this nature that are possible. Of those to be given here the Bow-
line in the bight #1080, #1081, #1083 and the Spanish Bowline
(#1087) are well known. Number 1088, the Sheepshank, was pub-
lished in Sea Stories in 1925 and #1097, #1102, #1105, and $1113
are well-known “fancy knots.” Number mo is the rather rare
“Theodore Knot,” of the cowboys. The remainder are mostly the
result of my own investigation.
1080. The Bowline, on , in , or upon , the bight , or a bight, was
mentioned by Lever in 1808, who called it “Bowline upon the
bight.” Roding gives a picture of it in 1795. It consists of two parallel
rigid loops which may be used individually if desired. The pull on
the two ends should be approximately parallel. It is the knot generally
used at sea for lowering an injured man from aloft. One leg is put
through each loop and if conscious the man holds the double stand-
ing part in hand, but, if unconscious, a Single Hitch from the stand-
ing part is placed around his chest and under his armpits.
To tie: Double a line, and with the loop end, tie a Bell Ringer’s
Knot (#1 147), as in the second diagram. Then open the single end
loop and pass it around the whole knot and close it about the neck
of the knot, as pictured. Draw out the two loops and the knot will
be complete.
1081. A second method of tying the Bowline on the bight:
Double a rope and tie an Overhand Knot with the looped end.
Following the diagram, fold the loop up over the front of the knot,
placing the bight across the neck. Holding the loop in place, pull
forward the double part that is indicated by the arrow in the second
diagram and work the knot taut.
1082. A third way to tie the Bowline on the bight: Tie an Over-
hand Knot with a looped end, exactly as in the foregoing knot.
Double the loop back, but this time double it underneath instead of
on top. The doubled bight that is marked with an arrow in the right
lower diagram forms the two loops. The material from the single
loop is worked out and the knot drawn taut.
[ 195 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1083. A Double Bowline on the bight is tied with two turns of
a doubled rope which gives four loops, or if wanted, an additional
turn will add two more loops. But as the number increases the knot
becomes less secure, so that if more pull is put on one loop than upon
its sister loops, that loop is apt to lengthen.
To tie: Turn back a rope upon itself so that a loop is formed at the
place where the knot is to be. Take the doubled rope in hand and
make a round left turn. Lay the loop end across the standing part
as in the left diagram and, following tne direction of the arrow in the
first diagram, capsize a double turn around the neck of the single
loop. Extend the single loop to a size large enough to pass around
the whole knot (upper right diagram). Then, after you have ar-
ranged the lower loops so that they are of equal length, bring the
opened single loop down and completely around the rest of the knot
and to the top again, closing it about the neck or standing part. Draw
all snug. This knot is an adaptation of the Portuguese Bowline,
shown as #1072.
1084. Two Parallel Round Loops with a knot formation that
suggests the Spanish Bowline, yet is not the same since the Spanish
Bowline has forked or splayed loops.
The knot begins with an Englishman’s or True-Lover’s Knot.
To tie this, turn down a loop over two parallel legs. Above the loop
lift the right bight over the edge of the left bight, to form a narrow
compartment. Then tuck down the bottom loop between the two
legs and draw it up through the center compartment. This forms the
Englishman’s Knot (#1143).
Arrange the Englishman’s Knot so that it conforms exactly with
the third diagram. Keep the knot open and loose. Next turn up the
bottom loop of the Englishman’s Knot, so that the bight of it lies
across the doubled standing part of the knot.
Grasp the upper bights or the two component Overhand Knots
which form the Englishman’s Knot and draw them downward,
holding the large single loop in place at the top. The knot should
now appear as shown in the fifth diagram. Proceed to draw all extra
material from the single loop down into the two lower loops, being
careful that they remain or equal size. Finally draw the knot up
snug.
If any difficulty is experienced, retie the knot from the start,
keeping all the turns loose and open.
1085. A rigid Double Figure-Eight Loop. The loops are narrow
and parallel. Double your rope and tie the looped end in the form
of a figure eight but without making a final tuck. It should coincide
with the left diagram. The loop that was formed should be laid back
underneath against the doubled standing part which is to form the
[ 196 ]
DOUBLE- AND MULTIPLE-LOOP KNOTS
neck of the knot. See the right diagram. Two bights from the neck
of the single loop are then grasped (third diagram) and pulled down
through the Double Loop. Draw up evenly to form the knot pic-
tured in the center.
1086. Multiple Parallel Loops in the bight. Double your rope
and with the looped end make a right round turn, then lay the loop
on top of the upper end of the coil with the standing part under-
neath. Pull the bight of the standing part up through the structure,
and give it one complete left-hand twist or turn; after which draw
all four loops down through the doubled bight from the standing
part, and work the knot taut. Another turn will add two more loops
to the knot.
If, instead of placing the single end loop on the top of the coil
(left diagram) and drawing the twisted standing part up through
it, the single loop is merely coiled down to the right side as shown in
the right-hand illustration, five instead of four loops will then be made
and the knot will be quite as symmetrical and as satisfactory in every
way.
1087. The Spanish Bowline is a well-known Double Forked
Loop. It is presumably a sailor’s knot and possibly an old one, but
I have not succeeded in finding any early reference to it. It is gen-
erally tied in hand, but may perhaps be more easily tied on a table
while learning.
Middle a rope and hold aloft with both hands, dropping a single
loop down and away from you. Holding the tops of the two up-
standing loops that are formed, twist each one of these a half turn
toward the center as in the second diagram. Without further twist-
ing pass the left loop through the upper compartment of the right
loop to assume the form of the fourth diagram (the third or center
diagram being the finished knot).
Raise and reeve each of the two lower bights back through the
bight that is immediately above it and draw all snug.
The knot is employed in sending or lowering a man from aloft.
One leg is thrust through each loop, and, if an unconscious man is
to be lowered, a hitch is added around the chest and under the arm-
pits. It may also be used in slinging a ladder for a staging. But as the
material from one loop may be drawn into the other loop, the knot
must be firmly drawn up.
1088. A Sheepshank Knot with Half Hitches drawn together
will serve the purpose of slinging a flat ladder as well as the last knot.
But it has the same fault— that the material from one loop may be
drawn into the other loop, so that if tied loosely the ladder might tilt
sidewise.
[ *97 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1089. The Hitched Tom Fool’s Knot will be more secure than
the two former knots for slinging a ladder, since the material from
one loop may not be directly drawn to the other loop.
1090. A Double Forked Loop on the bight. The method of mak-
ing the remaining knots on this page was suggested by Multi-
Strand Diamond Knot #693 and Sinnet Knot $ 757 , although the
application is somewhat remote. They are all trustworthy knots pro-
vided they are well tied.
This knot is commenced with two round turns. These are dis-
torted a bit to provide bights for tucking, and for tucking through.
The two lower bights are carried around the stem and tucked to the
right through the next upper bight.
1091. A Double Forked Loop in the bight. This knot also starts
with two round turns which are arranged in the shape of a pentagon.
In this case a lower bight passes to the left over the adjacent bight
and through the opposite upper bight. It more closely resembles
the method of tying a Diamond Knot than the last knot did, but in
these knots, bights instead of ends are tucked.
1092. This knot, which is perhaps the most secure of the series,
is tied somewhat in the manner of the Spanish Bowline (# 1087 ),
but the finished knots have little in common. This one is the more
secure of the two since the material of the two loops is not readily
drawn from one to the other. The knot is started with a Clove
Hitch; each of the two Single Hitches which compose the Clove
Hitch is given an added half twist to the right. The right-hand hitch
is then crossed over the left so that the knot assumes the form of the
second diagram. After this the two lower bights are rove through
the two upper bights as indicated by the arrows. The knot is then
drawn taut.
1093. A Double Loop Knot in the bight that is not so pro-
nouncedly forked as the others of the series. It is started with two
round turns and the top of each of these is given an additional half
[ 198 1
DOUBLE- AND MULTIPLE-LOOP KNOTS
twist to the right, before the lower bights are tucked, as shown in
the lower left diagram. The resulting knot is firm and strong.
1094. The knots on this page are more easily tied on a table than
in hand. This knot starts with a Constrictor (# 1249 ) that has been
flattened out on the table. The center part is arranged in a reversed
curve, and the two central bights that are formed are led over and
under as indicated by the two arrows. The ends of the rope in this
case are opposite each other, instead of parallel, as most of the previ-
ous ends in this chapter have been.
1095. Another knot, which starts with a Constrictor, has Paral-
lel Loops and a strong family resemblance to Knots #1090 and
# 1091 . The ends may be pulled and led either opposite or parallel
to each other.
1096. Here is a knot that, in drawing up, will distort into several
different forms, a number of which are symmetrical Double Loops.
Except for its variety the knot appears to have no particular interest,
since others that are more inevitable in form are more practical.
1097. A Three-Part Crown in the bight. As this knot is easily
remembered and is exceedingly secure, it would probably be the
most practical of all Splayed Loops were it not for the fact that it is
harder to untie than some others.
The back may be crowned a second time if a decorative knot is
wished.
1098. A decorative Japanese Loop in the bight. The ends must be
rove in order to complete the knot. A Half Knot is first tied in the
two ends of a cord. The ends are passed around the loop that is
formed, one end in front and one in back, and after being crossed
as shown in the left diagram they are tucked through the Half
Knot that was first formed (as shown by the two arrows in the
same diagram). This is not very secure as the material from one loop
is easily drawn into the other loop.
1 199 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1099. A Double Forked or Splayed Loop in the bight that com-
mences with a Strap Hitch (#1694). The rope is doubled to form
a loop. The loop is turned down over the doubled standing part, so
forming two loops, and the two loops are brought together to form
a Strap Hitch. A bight is then taken from the double stem and
tucked through the Strap Hitch as in the first diagram. The turns
are then carefully arranged to conform with the leads of the second
diagram. The Double Loop of the second diagram is laid down as
indicated by the arrow and arranged to conform with the lower
left diagram. The left Double Loop is moved underneath to the
right to conform with the lower right diagram. The stem is next
drawn taut; at the same time the two single loops are extended. The
resulting knot is strong, compact and handsome, but it is not rigid
since the two loops may be withdrawn into each other.
1100. A rigid Double Splayed Loop in the bight. This is one
of the firmest of the Double Loops since the two loops do not di-
rectly communicate with each other.
Make Single Bight Loop Knot #1053, extend the two bights
that encompass the legs and reeve them through the single loop in
the direction shown in the left diagram; at the same time turn back
the single loop so that it surrounds the neck of the knot. Arrange
the length of the two loops carefully before drawing the knot snug.
There is no stronger or more secure Double Loop than this one.
This completes the loops that are tied in the bight, with bights.
The remainder of the knots to be shown are tied in the bight with
the ends and are mainly for decorative purposes.
1101. A Forked Loop tied with the ends. Tie a Constrictor
(#1249) and lay it flat on the table. Tuck the two ends as indicated
by the arrows in the left diagram. Draw the two ends upward and
hold the two loops down. This is one of the most compact of all
Double Loops, but it is not a rigid one.
1102. A loop based on the Chinese Crown Knot. The latter is
described in Chapter 31, “Fancy Knots.”
One bight is thrust through another bight as shown in the left
diagram. The end is then rove, as indicated in the right diagram, to
complete the knot.
1103. An identical knot to the last but tied by a different method
This may be tied on the table directly by following the lead shown ir
the left diagram. Or it may be made by the method described as #128.
To do this, make an enlargement of the center diagram shown here,
and pin a cord along the line of the diagram beginning at the feather
end. Wherever another cord is to be crossed at a point that is marked
with a circle, tuck the working end underneath. At all other points
disregard the circles and lay the working end over.
1104. This decorative Double Loop was the result of an attempt
to make a Double Crown with single loops. To tie: Make an en-
larged diagram and pin the cord along the line, observing carefully
the correct over-and-under sequence.
[ 200 ]
DOUBLE- AND MULTIPLE-LOOP KNOTS
1105. A Four-Looped Knot with a Double Square Crown at the
center. A cord is arranged with five loops, one of which consists of
the two ends knotted together. The two ends are disregarded and
the four loops are crowned to the right. The knot is carefully faired
and crowned a second time, this time to the left.
1106. If the three snug loops or bights present at the three outer
corners of #1105 are extended the knot will have seven loops.
1107. A decorative Double Loop Knot is based on Single-Strand
Button #600. A cord is laid out as pictured in the center, and when
it has been tied the loops are pulled down as shown by the upper left
and lower right arrows, while the ends are extended as shown by the
upper right and lower left arrows . Draw up methodically and mold
the knot into the flat form pictured.
1108. If Knot # 1 107 is worked into a round shape it will resemble
closely the Knife Lanyard Knot (#787), except that it will have
two loops instead of one.
1109. A somewhat larger knot is worked in the same way. The
knot is pinned out and tied, the two bights are pulled downward to
form the loops and the two ends are lifted.
1110. The Theodore Knot is a single-strand adaptation of the
Sailor’s Diamond Knot (#693) which is tied with four strands.
Cowboys have employed the knot as a hackamore or emergency
bridle. According to Philip Ashton Rollins, the method originated
in the South American pampas and worked its way, via Mexico, to
our Southwestern cow country, arriving there soon after the conclu-
sion of the Spanish-American War. When Theodore Roosevelt, “the
hero of San Juan Hill,” visited the Southwest, shortly after the war,
it was a foregone conclusion that the Spanish name “Fiador” would
be corrupted to “Theodore” in his honor.
To tie: Double a rope, then redouble it. Hold it in hand with the
two ends and the single bight uppermost and stop it a little below
half length. Then turn down the single bight from the top. Put a
second stop above the first around the structure as it stands.
Turn up the last-laid loop in a right diagonal and tuck the two
single ends downward through them as pictured. Next, reeve the
two single ends upward and to the right, moving the left one first
and tucking it through the top bight of the left leg of the loop that
was first tucked. Then tuck the remaining end through the next
bight to the right. Cut the second stop and tighten the knot, then
remove the first stop.
The knot may be very simply and easily tied by using a clue. Take
two long cords of different color, middle them and seize them with
the four ends uppermost and the colors alternating. Tie a Sailor’s
Diamond Knot (#693). Leaving it quite loose, bend any two ad-
jacent ends of different color together. Take a long cord of the
permanent material and with it follow the lead of the first knot.
Finally remove the first knot, and there will remain a Theodore
Knot.
[ 201 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1111. The knots on this page are designed primarily for curtain
holdbacks. The first is a knot with two rigid loops which suggests
the Boatswain’s Lanyard Knot, but which structurally is quite
different. It is best tied on a cork board, pinning the cord at frequent
intervals. Make an enlarged copy of the diagram and follow over
this with the cord. Do not begin to draw the knot taut until certain
that the over-and-under sequence of the cord corresponds at every
point with the diagram. One of the ends and one of the two central
parts are pulled downward out of the plane of the knot and the
other two are lifted upward to form a loop with a tassel at either
side of the knot. Various tassels are shown in Chapter 41.
1112. A Curtain Holdback with a Turk’s-Head Knot. Take a
cord of the required length and lay it up into three parallel parts,
the end parts being somewhat longer than the bight part. Seize the
three parts together at the middle. Take the end which leads to the
left and tie a Three-Lead, Four-Bight, Two-Ply Turk’s-Head
around the place where the seizing occurs. Then with the other end
follow the lead a third time. Introduce this strand at the right side
and follow around the circuit of the knot in the same direction as
the first end. Draw the knot even and snug and add tassels to the
ends as described in Chapter 41.
About the same effect may be achieved by seizing the three paral-
lel parts of the cord permanently and then tying a snug Turk’s-Head
around it with a second cord.
1113. The common Commercial Cord Curtain Holdback. Un-
like the two knots just given, the loops in this are not rigid, but the
knot is fully as practical and is distinctive in appearance. Super-
ficially it resembles the Matthew Walker Knot.
At about one third of the length of the cord tie a Three- or Four-
Part Strangle Knot (#1240). While it is still loose reeve a loop
from the left end through the knot, leaving enough material at the
left side to form a loop. This makes a loop at either end. Draw the
knot snug and arrange so that the lengths of the two loops and
the ends are equal. Add or make tassels as described in Chapter 41.
CHAPTER 13: THE NOOSE
For a Running Noose, this new Ketch is but a fool to him .
{The Boatswain.)
Ned Ward: The Wooden World , 1707
A Noose or snare, sometimes called a Running Knot, is a variety
of Loop Knot that is tied in hand, and, when placed around an
object, renders and constricts when the rope is pulled on. It serves a
purpose similar to a snug hitch, but a hitch is tied directly to its
object. Captain John Smith mentions the Noose in 1627 but the
name is probably older. The knot itself is undoubtedly prehistoric
since it would be one of the first knots required by mankind for
snaring animals and birds needed for food. The most common use
of the Noose is the commencement of a parcel lashing.
The Noose is sometimes called a Running Knot, but the Run-
ning Knot may be any one of three things: either a Noose, a Slip
Knot or a hitch; while a Noose is just one thing: a knot at the end
of a rope that tightens when hauled on. Any loop becomes a Noose
if a bight is rove a short distance through it.
In parcel tying and in pack lashing the Noose should loosen easily
when pull is slackened. In lassoing and snaring the Noose should
tighten freely, without any binding whatsoever. But the Hangman’s
Noose, although it must run smoothly, need not run easily, since
it is already adjusted before being put to work.
There are two types of Nooses. One is formed by reeving a bight
through a rigid loop which is tied in the running end, such as the
Running Bowline. Any loop of Chapter 1 1 may be employed as
the base for a Noose of this kind. The method is pictured near the
top of page 204. The other kind is a single homogeneous knot such
as the Hangman’s Knot (#1119). This latter type generally can
be spilled without untying after it has been removed from its object.
To make a Noose of the first type: Put a loop in one end of the
rope. Then reeve a bight from the standing part of the same end
through the loop and place it around the object to be secured, or
else, if the rope is short, reeve the end its full length through the
knot.
[ 203 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1114. The Noose, Noose Knot or the Simple Noose is closely
related to the Overhand Knot, the final tuck of the Noose being
made with a bight instead of a single end, as in the Overhand. It is
often employed ashore, but seldom at sea, its simplicity being its
greatest recommendation. It may be tied in the bight as well as in
the end of a rope. Formerly it was much used in snaring birds and
small animals and was commonly tied in horsehair or small wire.
British poachers, I have been told, have preferred the Running
Bowline. But snaring has not always been confined to poachers.
The Sportsman's Dictionary of 1778 gives many pages or illustra-
tions devoted to interesting methods of snaring both animals and
birds. Even so late as 1893 snaring was not frowned on as now, and
Dan Beard’s American Boy's Handibook gives a number of interest-
ing examples. A friend of mine who lives at a wharfhead in summer
has had rare sport in copying various old traps and snares from old
sporting books, and by these means he has succeeded in exercising
a fair control of his rat population, and has benefited the whole
village.
1115. The Slip Noose (Halter Hitch #1804) closely resembles
the foregoing knot but it has an extra part and is differently tied. lo
tie: Make a Tom Fool’s Knot near the end of the cord or rope (# 1 1 34)
and draw it taut as illustrated. The knot is slipped by pulling on its
end.
1116. The Figure-Eight Noose draws up more smoothly than the
two that have been given and for that reason is to be preferred to
either.
1117. The Running Bowline Knot is referred to by name, in A
Four Years' Voyage by G. Roberts (1726), as the “Running
Bowling Knot.” It is the knot universally used at sea when a
Noose is called for. According to an old nautical authority it “is used
for throwing over anything out of reach, or anything under water.”
Any lumber that has dropped overboard or any rigging that has
gone adrift is recovered by its means.
1118. An excellent knot for snares, which draws up smoothly and
unties easily.
1119. The Hangman’s Knot. This is the knot generally used for
the purpose suggested by the name, because it may be counted on
to draw up smoothly and not let go. It is conventionally adjusted
with the knot immediately in back of and below the left ear.
It is sometimes contended that there should be nine turns to the
Noose, so that “even if a man has as many lives as a cat, there shall
be a full turn for each one of them,” and I have heard thirteen turns
urged as the proper number on the assumption that there is some
connection between bad luck and being hanged.
However, I learned the knot as it is pictured here, with only eight
turns, and I have found the preponderance of authority in favor of
eight turns only. In Chapter 2 the practical use of the knot is dis-
cussed under “Hangman.”
1120. A Scaffold Knot from Diderot’s Encyclopedia (1762).
1121. The Gallows Knot. This is the same knot as the last, but
differently tied.
f 204 ]
THE NOOSE
1122. The Newgate Knot is given by Gibson. It is differently tied
from $ 1121 , but it is exactly the same knot when drawn up in final
form. Both are Three-Fold Overhand Knots with the standing
md rove back through the knot.
1123. The Ichabod Knot was shown to me by the attendant at the
old Newcastle jail in Delaware. It appears to be an adequate knot
for its purpose. A very similar knot was shown to me in near-by
Wilmington, Delaware, for tying up a cow ($ 1828 ).
1124. The Gibbet Knot was first shown to me by Captain George
H. Grant, of Nantucket, and later the same knot was shown to me
by Ole Jackson.
1125. A decorative Noose which superficially resembles a
Matthew Walker Knot.
1126. A Double Ring or Tag Knot, also called Double Running
Knot, is used by lobster- and crabmen around their pots. As it has
no ends, its security is never in question. It is an exceedingly practical
knot that is commonly tied in hand.
1127. The Lariat or Lasso Noose is made by reeving the end of
the lariat through a Honda Knot. The latter knot is based on the
Bowstring Knot and is described in the chapter on single loops
($1024). The Honda differs from the Bowstring Knot in having a
single Overhand Knot in the end of the rope. To tie, first make an
Overhand Knot in the bight and then reeve the end through it,
after which the knot in the end is added.
1128. A four-strand lariat often has a Honda that is formed by
reeving the end of the rope between the strands of the standing part.
An Overhand ($515), Wall ($671), or (less frequently) a
Matthew Walker Knot ($ 682 ) is put in the end. The opened
strands are seized close to the knot. The end of the rope is also
whipped. The Matthew Walker Knot is said to be common in
Mexico.
1129. One of the most common Hondas consists of a copper
riveted eye with the bosom served over with heavy copper wire.
A description is given in Chapter 35, which deals with Eye Splices.
1130. The Inside Clinch consists of one or two seized round turns
in the end of a rope. The rope is rove through the turns. The turns
are held together with either two or three round seizings . The clinch
is tied in hawsers and cables that are too large for easy knotting, but
it is also tied in buntlines and leech lines, and is used for the latter
purpose in preference to hitches, since the seizings are less liable to
be loosened by continual slatting of the sail. The buntline is first rove
through the cringle in the boltrope and then through the turns of
the clinch.
1131. The Outside Clinch is not so secure and is employed wher-
ever it is necessary to cast off smartly, which is done by cutting the
seizing. The size of a clinch must always be less than the size of
the ring or cringle to which it is secured.
1132 . The Thimble and Eye is the neatest of Nooses. Nowadays
it is often tied in wire, sometimes with a bull’s-eye instead of a
thimble, as in cargo slings.
[ 205 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1 134
1133. This page consists of Double Nooses, that arc used for such
purposes as handcuffing and binding prisoners, and hobbling, sling-
ing, and throwing animals.
The Tom Fool’s Knot has long been used and recommended for
handcuffing.
1134. The Handcuff Knot, per se, is, however, a firmer knot, less
apt to spill while being put to work, and consequently to be pre-
ferred to the Tom Fool’s Knot. A loop having been adjusted around
each wrist, both ends are pulled on to tighten the knot; finally a
hitch is added to each end around the neck of the loop, close up to
the wrist.
1135. A decorative loop that will prove quite practical in any
place where a Double Loop is called for.
1136. A Double Noose may serve as a halter with which to lead a
refractory horse. A loop (# 1009 ) or a spliced eye is put in the end
of a halter-length rope. The Neck Loop is held at the horse’s throat,
and a Single Hitch is passed around the snout. Although this holds
everything taut it does not choke the animal.
1137. The Spanish Bowline may be employed as the base for a
Double Noose to be placed around the pasterns of a horse or cow.
This knot will be useful either as a preventive of kicking or an ad-
junct to throwing or slinging. The center of the rope is made fast
to a surcingle or sling.
1138. A Double Noose may be evolved from a single bight loop,
starting with the Harness Loop. It probably is not so strong as the
knot made with a Spanish Bowline.
1139. A Double Noose based on the Matthew Walker Knot.
This knot will draw together from three points.
Middle a short line and, holding it in hand with the two ends
uppermost, tie a Two-Strand Matthew Walker Knot, but with
this difference: in the last movement, instead of sticking the ends up
singly, turn them back along themselves and stick up a bight from
each instead.
There are many knots included here for which there appears to
be little present use. But the practicality or impracticality of a knot
can be too much stressed. History teaches us that sooner or later a
purpose is discovered for everything that exists. Old knots long out
of use have a way of coming back into this workaday world with
renewed vigor and usefulness.
[ 206
CHAPTER 14: KNOTS TIED IN THE BIGHT
Here I have made the True Lovers Knott ,
To try it in Marriage was never my Lott.
Stephen Blake: The covipleat Gardener's Fractice , 1664
Bight Knots are tied without the employment of ends and so are
very apt to mystify the layman. For that reason, in addition to their
practical purposes they are frequently tied as tricks or puzzles.
(Chapter 33).
A number of the loops in Chapters 1 2 and 1 3 are tied in the bight,
and in almost every chapter will be found one or several knots so tied.
Of the knots that are commonly grouped under the heading,
“Bight Knots,” the Sheepshank and the Masthead Knots are most
John Smith, in his Sea Grammar (1627), while enumerat-
knots required by the sailor, which he limits to three in
number, says as follows: “The last is the Shepshcmke [sic] which is
a knot they caste upon a Runner, or a Tackle, when it is too long
to take in the Goods, and by this Knot they can shorten a Roape
without cutting it, as much as they list, and presently undoe it
againe, and yet never the worse.” And in another place: u Sheeps
Feet is a stay in setting up a topmast and a guie [guy] in staying
the tackles when they are charged with goods.” Also: “Strike your
topmasts to the cap, make them sure with your sheeps feete.”
Previous to the days of the clipper ship, it was the usual practice
of merchant ships, when approaching Cape Horn, to send down
their topgallant masts before an expected blow. It was also a part of
the regular drill aboard the square-rigged ships of the Navy. The
eyes of the topgallant backstays were lowered and lashed at the top-
mast caps and the slack material of the stays was made up into
Sheepshank Knots.
[ 207 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
/ / 4 2
Another temporary use for the knot was to ease the strain around
a weak or wounded section of rope. Nowadays the knot comes in
handy to shorten an automobile towrope or a hay tackle fall.
The Masthead or Jury Mast Knot provides a strap to which the
several stays are bent when jury rigging is required after a storm or
a battle. It also comes in handy on the stays of a derrick. A pair of
cleats, nailed to the head of the mast or pole, should be added if pos-
sible, to make the knot doubly secure.
1140. The Handcuff Knot is often confused with the Tom Fool’s
Knot. But it is commenced with a Clove Hitch while the latter knot
is evolved from a round turn. After the Handcuff Knot has been
drawn up snugly, each end may be half hitched around one of the
loops to render the knot secure.
1141. The Tom Fool or Tom Fool’s Knot may be used for the
same purpose as the former but is not so satisfactory a Handcuff
Knot, as it is more difficult to draw snug and make fast, if the
prisoner proves fractious. Generally it is employed as a trick knot
and as such will be found more fully described at the beginning
of Chapter 33 .
1142. The Jug Sling or Jar Sling Knot is invaluable on picnics
or wherever heavy bottles, vacuum jars, or jugs have to be lugged
considerable distances. Sailors find it useful on “wooding” and
“watering” parties ashore. On sketching expeditions I have found
it invaluable for carrying fluid with which to wash brushes. The Jug
Sling is pictured by Roding in 1795 . E. N. Little, in 1889 , pic-
tures and labels it Jar Sling Knot, the two terms being interchange-
able.
Cowboys are said to have employed it as a hackamore or emer-
gency bridle. The two center bights of the knot proper form the bit,
the outer bights surround the muzzle, the long loop forms the head-
stall and the ends are used for reins.
To tie the knot: Middle a stout cord and turn back the center to
form a loop or bight (first diagram). Holding the center of the bight
with the left thumb and finger so that it will not shift, twist the
two parallel center parts one full turn, as pictured in diagram 2 .
Insert the right thumb and forefinger down into the center com-
partment of the twisted section and with the fore fingernail upper-
most grasp the center of the original bight (see arrow in the second
diagram).
Holding the two legs of the knot with the left hand, lift the
knot with both hands, and, without changing the grip of the right
hand, hold the knot out before you, allowing the tight hand to turn
away from you so that the thumb is toward you. Then separate the
two hands slowly, drawing out the knot into position 3 .
If you haven’t succeeded in achieving position 3 , repeat from the
beginning and it will probably fall into correct form.
Slip the left hand under the knot and withdraw the bight that
is indicated by the arrow in the third diagram. Finally place the
center of the knot marked X in the bottom of the left diagram
around the collared neck of a bottle (a milk bottle will do nicely)
and draw up the knot.
[ 208 ]
KNOTS TIED IN THE BIGHT
l ie the legs together (Bend #1474), making a second loop the
size of the first, fill the bottle, take the two loops in hand and pro-
ceed according to plan.
1143. The name True-Lover’s Knot is mentioned by Stephen
Blake in 1664. The knot is also called English, Englishman’s,
Water, Waterman’s, Fisher’s and Fisherman’s Knot or Loop. A
bit of folklore goes with this that may be found in Chapter 31
(#2420). The knot commences in much the same way as the previ-
ous knot, but only a single half twist or turn is taken in the two
parallel parts at the center. The bight is then pulled up through the
center. Occasionally one of the two component Overhand Knots
slips over the other and has to be righted, but generally it ties cor-
rectly without any bother. A strong but clumsy loop is formed that
is much favored by anglers.
1144. A Monkey Chain or Chain Shortening is generally given
as a Bight Knot, but hardly belongs in the class as the end has to be
rove through the final loop of the chain, in order to make it secure.
Or the end may be seized, stopped or toggled instead. It is the most
common shortening for domestic purposes, being nothing more than
the crochet chain stitch, which is familiar to all good housewives.
It is used on window-shade cords and electric-light pulls. Roding
gives a picture of it in 1795.
1145. If a Monkey Chain is toggled at either end it is not liable
to jam. Sometimes a Monkey Chain is used to shorten a hay tackle
fall but this is severe treatment for rope.
1146. Knot Shortening. Turn back two bights as if starting a
Sheepshank Knot (#1152). Twist both ends and lead around the
standing part in opposite directions to half knot the two bights to-
gether. The practice is not suitable for rope but it may be used in
packing cord when tightening a slack lashing. It is difficult to untie.
1147. The Bell Ringer’s Knot is mentioned in Hutton’s Me-
chanics (1815). A single bight is lifted and the standing part above
is half hitched around it. The purpose is to keep the rope from the
belfry deck when the bell is not in use.
1148. Sometimes two hitches are made, which is more secure.
This may be required when the rope is so long that several turns are
hitched.
1149. The Yardarm Knot is described in an old book on seaman-
ship. The upper part of the knot is lightly stopped with twine and
the lower end only is hitched. It is the same form as #1147 with the
addition of a stopping, but it is the other side up. The knot was em-
ployed in a hanging at sea (see #3 66). Precisely six feet of rope was
expended in the knot and when the seizing fetched against a block
it broke and the load was dropped six full feet.
1150. When a rope is only a little too long for its purpose a Bow-
line Shortening will be found reliable, expeditious and not liable
to jam.
f 209 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1151. A Seized Shortening is sometimes put on a new rope that
has not yet been weathered. It is neat and dependable. The seizings
may be made as #3385.
1152. There are two practical ways of tying the Sheepshank
Knot. The slack in the rope may be laid out on deck in three parallel
parts, forming two bights as in the first diagram of #1146. A Half
Hitch is formed in the standing part and placed over the end of one
of the bights. Then the other bight is treated likewise. This is the
preferred way for large rope.
1153. In light rope the three parallel parts of the Sheepshank
Knot are laid out as before, the upper bight is grasped in the right
hand, laid across the standing part of the rope and then given a turn
which picks up a hitch exactly in the same way that is employed in
tying a Bowline Knot. This is repeated with the lower end.
1154. If a Sheepshank Knot is to be tied around a wounded or
chafed part of a rope it should be arranged so that the weak point
will be where X is marked on the accompanying drawing. Some-
times this knot is employed as a “trick” and the rope is cut at X.
Under steady pull, even when cut, the knot is reasonably secure.
1155. The Sheepshank with Marlingspike Hitches is the safest
of the Sheepshank Knots. All other varieties should be seized or
otherwise secured to make them safe, unless the need is very tem-
porary.
1156. A Sheepshank based on the Tom Fool’s Knot. Sailors tie
a number of more or less decorative Sheepshanks for the edification
of landsmen. A Tom Fool’s Knot having been tied, a Half Hitch
is added to the end of each loop.
1157. A Sheepshank from a Handcuff Knot may be made by
adding two hitches in similar manner to the last knot, or it may be
tied directly with four hitches as #1164.
1158. The common Sheepshank, if carefully tied and drawn up
and kept at even tension, is fairly dependable, but it should be ex-
amined after each haul or lift, and if it is to remain in place anv con-
siderable length of time it should be stopped. This is usually done as
shown alongside.
1159. Perhaps a better way to secure the Sheepshank is to include
only two parts and to add crossing turns to the seizings. Arranged
in this way, the knot will be safe.
1160. In heavy material a Sheepshank may be toggled. Slightly
tapering fids should be driven in and these in turn should be secured
by taking belaying turns of marline around the two ends. If the fids
are notched at the center the knot will be safer.
[ 210 ]
KNOTS TIED IN THE BIGHT
1161. If there is a considerable length of material to be expended
in the Sheepshank, a number of turns may be taken. To make this
coil doubly secure, place a Clove Hitch at each end. I have seen this
knot used in color halyards that are to be hung well above deck.
1162. The “parlor method” of tying the Sheepshank is one of the
sailor’s standard tricks. The knot is tied almost instantaneously from
three hitches which are arranged one on top of another as shown
here. Each side bight of the center hitch is grasped through an outer
hitch, and extended for a short distance. Then the bights are cast off
in mid-air, the grasp being shifted to the two ends of the rope.
If small stuff is used, this knot is tied, inchworm-fashion, by pull-
ing out the loops with thumbs and forefingers, and as the loops are
extended the ends of the cord are grasped at either side, with the ring
and little fingers. The trick is practiced until only one continuous
movement is evident. The finished knot is shown as # 1 1 54.
1163. The Sheepshank with a Sword Knot has also been called
Navy Sheepshank, and occasionally Man-o’-War Sheepshank.
Four hitches are made which should overlap each other in pairs. The
bights from each pair are pulled through the center of the opposite
pair and are tightly drawn together. It is well to jerk them a few
times to make them tighter. In this form the knot is quite irregular
and unprepossessing. Now take the ends in hand and jerk them apart.
The knot should now appear as in the lower drawing of #1164 but
it may require a little prodding to make it quite regular.
1164. The same knot may be made in a less spectacular way. Note
that two adjoining bights are crossed and that each of the single
bights at the center is rove through the two opposite hitches. This
is Handcuff Knot #1157 with the two loops half hitched.
The whole series of Sheepshanks are practical knots; I once tried
them aH when hauling a heavy skiff across a wide beach. On account
of the sand there was only about fifty feet in which to work the car
to advantage, so the boat had to be hauled in short hitches. I put a
different Sheepshank in the rope each time the car was backed up
and had no trouble with any of them; they neither jammed nor
slipped.
1165. Make four hitches and overlap the two center hitches. Then
tuck each of the center bights in alternate over-and-under sequence,
to the side. If the two outer hitches are made a little smaller than
the two inner ones, the knot will require little or no adjustment.
1166. “Two Hearts That Beat as One.” Sailors ring all the
changes on this knot, using any number of hitches. But beyond five
the Sheepshank soon loses distinction.
[211 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1167. The Masthead or Jury Mast Knot is generally to be found
among the “fancy knots.” This is because it is decorative, and it may
also be because the occasion for its practical use is fortunately seldom
encountered.
The original purpose of the knot is to place a strap around a tem-
porary masthead to which stays can be made fast. The knot binds
well and provides several loops to which the stays are secured with
Becket Hitches. If possible cleats should be nailed below the knot.
It has also been called a “Pitcher Knot.”
Ashore it is employed practically at the head of a derrick pole.
It has frequently been recommended as a means of lugging shot
about ship, but I have never seen this purpose mentioned by a nau-
tical authority and the usual means for transporting shot was a heavy
“Cabbage Net” (#3792).
The common Masthead Knot, which is the one pictured here, is
commenced with three overlapping hitches. The inner bights of the
two outer hitches are led in regular sequence over and under to the
opposite sides of the knot, while the upper bight of the center hitch
is merely extended. The teeth are sometimes used for the latter
purpose.
When the knot is put to use the ends may be employed for addi-
tional staying or they may be seized to the side loops after the knot
is drawn taut.
1168. A second method is commenced by laying down a Single
Hitch, followed by a round turn, and then a second hitch, the first
hitch being at the left of the knot.
It is possible, of course, to tie any knot reversely (except one that
is dependent on the lay of the strands or rope) but for purposes of
practice it is simpler for the reader to disregard that possibility and
to tie the knots as they are described.
This particular knot is less complicated than # 1167 , at the point
where the ends depart from the knot. Here they may be reef knotted
together, to which treatment the former knot does not lend itself
readily.
1169. A third method of tying the Jury Mast Knot is started
with three round turns. The bights are woven in regular over-and-
under sequence as already described, and as indicated by the arrows
in this diagram. After this the center loop or turn is extended. The
ends may be seized to the stays after the knot is in place, or they may
be used for additional staying.
The sketch at the left shows the knot in place at the masthead
ready for the addition of stays. Notice that wooden cheeks have
been nailed to the mast to prevent slipping. There may be some pro-
tuberance already on the jury mast that will serve the purpose. If
nothing is found an attempt to provide something should be made,
or else a slight groove can be whittled, rasped or chopped around
the spar. Only if it is absolutely necessary should the knot be used
unsupported, in which case Knot #1167 may have the firmer grip.
If nothing else offers, parcel the mast with rubber or canvas.
1170. A French Masthead Knot which has but two loops is
shown by Challamel (Paris, 1891). By using the legs of the knot to
secure the headstay, with the two loops for the backstays, there will
be three leads, which is the number usually required. All stays should
be secured to the loops with Becket Hitches (# 1900).
[ 212 ]
CHAPTER 15: CLOVE HITCH AND OTHER
CROSSING KNOTS
The general Properties belonging to the common Mariner is to hand,
reef, steer, Knot and Splice, with which Qualifications he may safely
value himself upon the Calling of a good Seaman.
A Naval Repository, i 762
The general purpose of the Crossing Knot is to hold together
the bights of two ropes, or two parts of the same rope that cross each
other, or else to secure che bight of a single rope to another cylin-
drical object. After the two parts are engaged, the ends are further
employed. Crossing Knots are commonly used when lashing an
object, or in making a temporary fence.
There are two ways of tying Crossing Knots and many of the
knots may be tied in either way. The commoner way is to tie the
knot with the end of a rope, as with the Clove Hitch when adding
ratlines to shrouds, which requires reeving the end its full length.
The other way is to tie the knot in the bight, which is done over
stakes and posts either by first forming the knot in hand, or else by
placing successive hitches over the top of the post. The Clove Hitch
is the typical Crossing Knot and may be tied in either way.
Crossing Knots are found on wagon stakes and trellises, in
clotheslines and life lines. Tied around stakes and posts, they provide
a barrier for “roping off” crowds at fires, circuses, parades, wed-
dings, country auctions, lawn parties and inaugurations. They serve
to make temporary fences around clambakes, broken shopwindows,
street trenches and shell holes.
They are required in lashings on chests, trunks, bales, bundles and
parcels, and in standing rigging, scaffoldings, stanchions and rope
ladders.
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1171. The Crossing Knot, per se, is known and used wherever
parcels are made up, but it is seldom that the knot is tied in the most
expeditious way. Generally the end is tucked twice, although one
tuck is all that is needed. As lashing and parcel tying are discussed
at some length in Chapter 28 , little need be said here about them.
Ordinarily a Noose is tightened around the girth of a parcel and then
the cord is led at right angles to the Noose around the length of the
parcel. Wherever the cord crosses itself a Crossing Knot is added
to hold the lashing firm.
To tie the preferred way, with a single tuck: The lashing having
reached the position of the first diagram and the cord having crossed
the original Noose, make a Half Hitch as indicated by the arrow.
The cord is then tightened by first pulling it back as in the second
diagram and then forward as in the third. The end is secured on the
reverse side with Two Half Hitches.
1172. The usual shopkeeper’s •way of tying the knot is the reverse
of # 1171 . The end is rove under the Noose and is hauled back and
tightened. It then is tucked a second time under its own standing
part. This is “end-for-end” but otherwise the same as the former
knot.
1173. There is still a third 'way to tie the same form. The end is
led across the original Noose and tucked backward under it. It is
then led over its own standing part and stuck forward under the
original Noose. This knot is the upside down of #1172 and the '‘up-
side-down” and “end-for-end” of # 1171 .
1174. To tie "he Crossing Knot in the bight over a stake: Seize
a bight, twist it one full turn and drop it over the stake. Tighten the
knot by hauling the end back as in the second diagram of # 1171 ,
then lead the end forward to the next stake.
1175. Sometimes, if the cord is not so strong as might be wished,
it is reinforced by leading it twice around a parcel. In such a case
it will usually be sufficient to tie a Crossing Knot on the second
circuit only. The end is laid as in the first diagram of #1171 but it
is tucked under the two parts that have formed a cross on the top
side of the parcel.
1176, 1177. Although the name Clove Hitch is given by Falconer
in his Dictionary of 1769 , the knot is much older, having been tied
in ratlines at least as early as the first quarter of the sixteenth century.
This is shown in early sculpture and paintings. A round turn is taken
with the ratline and then a hitch is added below. The forward end is
always the first to be made fast.
Diagram # 117 6 shows the outside view of the starboard shrouds
and $ 1 177 the outside view of the port shrouds.
[ 214 1
CLOVE HITCH AND OTHER CROSSING KNOTS
In tying up heavy bundles and bales the Clove Hitch is the Cross-
ing Knot favored by manufacturers, since the whole lashing is not
apt to give way if any part of the cord or rope chafes through.
1178. When placing a Clove Hitch over a post or stake it may be
tied in hand by first making two turns and then bringing the lower
turn atop the first one. (See first diagram.) Or a Single Hitch may
be tied around the post and the rope tightened and held while the
second hitch is added.
Additional ways of tying the Clove Hitch are given in Post
Hitches, Chapter 23. “Trick” ways are shown in Chapter 33.
1179. Frequently it is a great convenience to be able to tie the knot
with one hand. The rope, as shown here, comes from the left and
is led beyond the post. With the palm of the right hand held away
from you, grasp the rope on the right side of the post. Cross the
hand to your left, and turn the palm toward you. This imparts a
twist to the rope which is then dropped back (away from you) over
the post. Take the end again in your right hand, pull it to the left to
tighten the rope, then make and place a second turn, over the top of
the post, exactly as described for the first one.
1180. If it is desired to haul the line between posts very tight, the
following is the way to do it. Pull with both hands and when the
rope is taut, hold what you have gained with the left hand. Twist
the rope to the right with the right hand, which will cause a turn
to be formed, and allow this turn to drop over the end of the post.
Pull this turn tight around the post with the right hand, without
rendering any that is held in the left hand. Hold all taut with the
left hand while adding a second hitch to complete the Clove Hitch.
1181. An African Rafter Lashing from the 38th Annual Report
of the National Smithsonian Museum. The framework of the hut is
of bamboo and the roof is thatched with grass. The rope is brought
from the left parallel with the purline. It passes a rafter on the under-
side and takes a turn around it; it then takes a turn around the pur-
line and is tucked forward again under the first turn that is around
the rafter. The knot is repeated at each rafter crossing.
1182. The Transom Knot (see also # 1255 ) is closely related to the
Constrictor. It was first made to hold together the crossed ribs of a
kite. If unsupported it is more secure than the previous knot, and has
little or no initial slip. It may be used for a series of knots in a single
rope or it may be tied singly. If pickets, pales, or transoms are spaced
widely apart much material will be saved without any loss of security
by closely clipping each knot.
[215]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1133 . The Half Knot is the commonest of the Crossing Knots
and the least efficient. Sometimes it is tucked a second time to make
a Double Half Knot, which is more secure but still is hardly to be
recommended. I have seen the Half Knot used for the sides of a
rope ladder to the trapezes, in Lowney Brothers’ Circus. As the
knots of each rope were tied on opposite sides of the rungs there
was no tendency for the rungs to turn and the knot served its pur-
pose. The chief objection would be that when not in use they would
be liable to loosen and get out of adjustment.
1184 . The Cow Hitch is used as a Crossing Knot on the farm.
It is not particularly firm, but it does not become untied, since both
ends are engaged; moreover it cannot jam. It has the further advan-
tage that it is easily tied, either in the end or bight of a rope.
1185 . The Half Hitch is often used in roping off street con-
struction activities. It is perhaps the least satisfactory of Crossing
Knots in common use since it is very apt to slip down the iron stake
to which it is ordinarily tied. The rope may first be tied in a series
of Overhand Knots (^564); then each knot is opened as #48 and
dropped over a stake.
1186 . The Marlingspike Hitch is tied in the bight and is often
seen on iron stakes. It may slip if the rope is slack but it is easily
untied, and the pull on the ends is at opposite sides of the stake.
1187 . Spar Hitch #1244 makes a good Crossing Knot. It is firm,
has an excellent lead and may be tied in the bight.
1188 . The Constrictor Knot is the firmest of the Crossing Knots
and may be tied either in the end or bight but it is one of the most
difficult of knots to untie and is not suitable for rope unless the pur-
pose is a permanent one (such as on a rope ladder). For this purpose
the two ropes are led down opposite sides and ends of the rungs.
The three Crossing Knots (#118 6 , #1187 and #1188) are each
started with a similar turn around the stake. The same bight is lifted
in each case from under the same part and then passed over the top
of the post. But in #1186 the bight is lifted over without twisting to
form a Marlingspike Hitch; in #1187 it is given a half twist or turn
to the left to form Hitch # 1 674, and in #1188 it is given a half twist
to the right to form the Constrictor Knot— three very different
hitches which make excellent Crossing Knots.
1189 . When the Constrictor Knot is tied around a stanchion or
a tall pole, where there is no access to the top, a round turn must be
made and the end rove as pictured here.
1190 . If there is to be considerable sidewise pull, as in swifting the
bars of a capstan, the Rolling Hitch, originally the Magnus or
Magners Hitch, is the best Crossing Knot to employ. It is easily
[ 216 ]
CLOVE HITCH AND OTHER CROSSING KNOTS
tied in the bight by winding the standing part for two backward
turns and then adding a hitch over the end of the bar with a bight
from the working end. A deep slot is often put across the ends of
capstan bars, or else a hole is bored through the end, to hold the
swifter in place. When there are holes Post Hitch #1199 should be
tied to save the trouble of reeving. The two ends of the swifter arc
bent together.
With the possible exception of the Marlingspike Hitch (# 1 186 ),
the knots so far shown in this chapter have had the pull of the two
ends from the same side or rather surface of the knot. In the Mar-
lingspike Hitch the pull is from opposite faces, which is a desir-
able feature for some purposes as there is less tendency to dis-
turb the stake. But the Marlingspike Hitch does not always stay
in place, if the rope slackens. Knots #1191, #1192, #1193 and
#1196 are the results of an attempt to find a satisfactory knot for
this purpose.
1191. Of the next four knots the first and #1194 can be tied in the
bight. For that reason they are the most practical of the lot. In #1191
the bight of the rope is twisted one full turn, the two legs where they
cross each other farthest from the bight are pulled up through the
bight to assume the shape of the right diagram, the post is inserted
at the spot marked X and both legs are pulled on while they are
still parallel. When the slack has been taken up sufficiently the knot
is further tightened by pulling the ends in opposite directions (see also
#3854).
1192. A knot of more regular appearance which has to be rove
twice in the making. It is commenced with a Half Hitch around a
post and is completed with a second one, around the post and
through the first Half Hitch.
1193. A knot, also of regular appearance, which requires but one
reeving and the passing of a single bight over the top of the post.
1194. The Pile Hitch (#1815) adapts itself very nicely to the
purpose of a Crossing Hitch; it is easily tied and untied and is both
strong and secure (see also #316).
1195. The Zigzag Knot is a common Stake Hitch employed in
lashing wagon, sled and truck loads. The end of the rope in making
the lashing is passed in a coil, when possible, which saves much reev-
mg.
Pass the rope around a stake and haul it taut. Stick the end down
behind the standing part. At this point it is a replica of Knot # 1 173-
Pass the end behind the stake again and around the standing part and
then behind the stake again. Haul on it strongly and any slack will
be taken up. After this bring the end to the next stake and repeat the
operation that has just been described.
1 217 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1196. A fairly symmetrical knot, that is pulled from opposite
sides. This builds up with a few simple moves and requires but a
single reeving. Pass the rope around the post and make a Supped
Half Hitch. Pass the end of the rope around the back of the post
and reeve it through the Slip Loop. The knot will require a little
adjustment before it will lie fair, and is probably the least satisfac-
tory of the four knots with opposite pull that are given.
1197. If a post has a hole through it, as is sometimes the case with
fence posts and clothes poles, the end of the line may be rove
through the hole, hauled taut and then a hitch dropped over the
end of the post to make a very secure hitch. In this case the ends will
be about opposite each other.
1198. If, after reeving the line through the hole, the end is carried
around the back of the pole and under the standing part before add-
ing the hitch over the top, the pull may not be so symmetrical but
the knot will be strong and secure.
1199. If the hole is large enough, the common way of making a
Crossing Knot is to reeve a bight through the hole. The bight is
next dropped back over the top of the pole or post and the working
end is led forward.
1200. The next two knots are symmetrical and decorative. They
may be used practically for any purpose for which the other knots,
that have been described, are used. But the extra work required to
tie them will be justified only if they are used for staking off on
very special occasions, such as a lawn party or a wedding.
Tie by following the course indicated by the successive arrows in
the right and left drawings. By inadvertence, the rope which forms
this knot has been illustrated as leading from right to left instead of
left to right as the others have been drawn. There is no especial
reason for this.
The knot is #1253 among the Binding Knots.
1201. Although handsome, this knot is somewhat ponderous and
I would hesitate to recommend it for anything less than a meeting
of the Garden Club itself. The purpose of the knot under the cir-
cumstances would be to provide roped-off areas so that guests might
be spared the embarrassment of trampling on the flower beds.
First tie a Clove Hitch and arrange the turns as in the left dia-
gram, continue as in the right diagram and complete as shown in the
center.
[ 218 j
CHAPTER 16: BINDING KNOTS
Dry sun, and dry winde;
Time to reap, and time to Bind.
Old Weather Adage
Binding Knots are of two sorts. The first sort passes around an
object or objects one or more times and the two ends are snugly
tied together; the second passes around an object or objects two or
more times and the ends are stuck under the turns.
The knots serve two purposes. Either they confine and constrict
a single object, or else they hold two or more objects snugly to-
gether. The whippings and seizings, shown in Chapter 40, serve
much the same purpose as Binding Knots, but they contain too many
turns to be considered as knots, being more akin to lashings.
On the other hand, the Turk’s-Head is a legitimate Binder Knot
of the second variety, but the family is so large, and has so many
ramifications, that it is given a whole chapter to itself.
The last page of the present chapter deals with the Roband Hitch,
the knot that bends a square sail to its yard or to a backstay. It is a
subject of considerable historical interest, particularly for ship-model
builders; many of its forms are applicable to present-day needs.
At a time when all sail was bent directly to the yards, the Roband
Hitch was seldom a recognizable knot; it was more apt to be a seiz-
ing or a lashing of small stuff. But by 1 840 a knot was the common
means of bending sail. With the advent of the clipper ship, however,
in the 1850s, seizings of marline became the standard, perhaps due
to lighter cotton canvas, and after 1 860 the Roband Hitch was sel-
dom seen except in the Navy and on school ships, where bending
and unbending sail was a part of the regular drill.
I have never seen a complete contemporary illustration of any
Roband Hitch. The knots shown here are reconstructed from con-
f. 219 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
temporary descriptions, and from incomplete and often faulty con-
temporary illustrations. Some are reconstructed from a combination
of several different descriptions. The only complete and satisfactory
description is by Lever of Knot #1267.
The first six Robands shown are very simple and probably are
correct, since there was little chance to go wrong.
Number 1270 is the Roband Hitch of our sailing Navy, which
was adequately recorded, in most of the contemporary seamanship
books, except for the one detail of finishing off at the top of the yard
with a final Reef Knot. This was omitted in both description and
illustration by all authorities until mentioned by Taunt in 1883.
1202 . The Half Knot, sometimes called Single Knot, is the first
movement for the class of Binder Knots that pass around an object
but once. Both Brady and Dana in 1841, and Luce, in 1862, use the
name Half Knot, the name Single Knot being a needlework term.
The Half Knot is tied around an object with two rope ends. It
is generally a part of a more elaborate knot but it also has several
solo uses. It is tied singly in rope yarn knots, and in finishing off
grommets, cringles, Long and Backhanded Splices, Artificial
Eyes and West Country Whippings. The Right-Handed Half
Knot is a Two-Strand Right-Handed Crown.
1203 . The Left-Handed Half Knot is a Two-Strand Left-
Handed Crown.
1204 . The Reef Knot or Square Knot consists of two Half
Knots, one left and one right, one being tied on top of the other,
and either being tied first.
Captain John Smith gives the name Reef Knot in 1627. Dana gives
the name Square Knot in 1841. Few sailors speak of Square Knot
except in contradistinction to Granny Knot but it is the common
shore name for the knot and is in good repute among sailors. Other
names for it are True, Hard, Flat, Common, Regular, Ordinary.
When adding the second Half Knot to the first, the latter is often
held in place by a thumb, a finger or by another person, until the
second Half Knot has been drawn up.
The Reef Knot is unique in that it may be tied and tightened
with both ends. It is universally used for parcels, rolls and bundles.
At sea it is always employed in reefing and furling sails and stopping
clothes for drying. But under no circumstances should it ever be tied
as a bend , for if tied with two ends of unequal size, or if one end is
stiff er or smoother than the other, the knot is almost bound to spill.
Except for its true purpose of binding it is a knot to be shunned.
1205 . One of the distinguishing features of the Square Knot and
the one which gives it its chief value as a Reef Knot is the ease with
which it may be untied. Jerk one end in a direction away from its
own standing part (that is, toward the other end) and the knot cap-
sizes; all the turns are left in one end and these are easily stripped
from the other end with a sweep of the hand.
1206 . The Granny Knot is also called the False, Lubber’s, Calf
and Booby Knot. Patterson’s Nautical Encyclopedia calls it “Old
Granny Knot” and Sir Edwin Arnold calls it the “Common or Gar-
den Knot.” The name Granny is given in Vocabulary of Sea Phrases
(Anonymous, 1799) and Roding pictures the knot in 1795.
The Granny consists of two identical Half Knots, one tied on
top of the other. It has but one practical purpose that I know of and
that is to serve as a Surgeon’s Knot (see Chapter 2). Formerly it
was employed for tying up parcels in five-and-ten-cent stores, but
[ 220 ]
BINDING KNOTS
the practice was given up and paper bags substituted as they were
found to be simpler.
1207. The Thief or Bag Knot is also called Bread Bag Knot. It
appears very like the Reef Knot, but there is one real and scarcely
evident difference. It does not consist of two Half Knots. There is
a legend that sailors tie clothesbags, and bread bags with this knot
and that thieves always retie them with Reef Knots and so are
inevitably detected. It is a pleasing story that should encourage
honesty. However, if I have ever met this knot in practical use, I
have neither recognized it nor paid penalty for my failure, to do so.
1208. The Whatnot. This is the same knot formation as the
Granny Knot, but the ends are diagonally opposite each other. It
is hardly a practical knot. But with the ends seized it is called the
Reeving Line Bend (#1459), and it also serves as an interesting trick
(#2579).
1209. The Ligature Knot is commonly called by laymen the
Surgeon’s Knot. But surgeons do not speak of the “Surgeon’s Knot”
any more than a sailor would speak of a “Sailor’s Knot.”
1210. A knot that is used by shoemakers, harness makers and sail-
makers for tying up parcels. The thread is led twice around the
parcel. A Half Knot is tied in which one end is led under both parts
before the final Half Knot is added.
1211. The Half or Single Bowknot, called, in Emerson’s Dic-
tionary of 1 794, Drawknot. It is called the Slipped Reef Knot by
yachtsmen and small boatmen. It is much used in parcel tying.
1212. The Bowknot or Double Bowknot is closely related to the
Reef Knot, the difference being in the second Half Knot, which is
tied with two bights instead of two ends. It is often tied in ribbons
and tape. Its practical importance lies in the ease with which it may
be untied, bv pulling at one or both of the ends.
1213. With additional bows worked into circular form the Bow-
knot is sometimes termed a Rosette or a Rosette Knot.
1214. The Bowknot is the universal means of fastening shoe-
strings together.
1215. The Shoe Clerk’s Knot is the Bowknot with the addition
of an opposing Half Knot tied in the two loops.
1216. This pictures the Double Shoestring Knot as tied by Mrs.
Charles S. Knowles. After a Bowknot has been loosely tied, the
right forefinger, or the right middle finger, pushes the left loop
through the knot a second time, from the back forward as shown by
the arrow in the left drawing.
1217. A Square Shoestring Knot is tied with two bights. This
holds well and is untied by spilling in the manner described for the
Reef Knot (#1206).
1218. A Square Knot for shoestrings is tied with one end and
one bight.
1219. The Double Slip Knot is also applied to shoestrings. Each
of the two loops in the second knot is tucked once after they have
been crossed, as in the left diagram.
1220. A Shoestring or Parcel Knot was shown to me bv George
H. Taber. Tie a regular Bowknot and stick the right loop through
the left loop, then pull the left loop tight around the right loop.
1221. A Shoestring or Parcel Knot. Tie a Single Bowknot,
tuck a bight from the secure end, through the single loop, and draw
up the loop tightly around it. Spill the knot by pulling the two ends
one after the other.
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1222. The Stationer’s Knot came from Havana. A Half Hitch
is tied with the “slippery end” around the loop of a Single Bowknot.
Hold the loop while drawing up the hitch. This is not a Slip Knot,
as the hitch must be removed before the knot can be spilled.
1223. A Sheet Bend (#1431) used as a decorative Bathrobe Cord
Knot. Like the Shoestring Knots on the previous page, these two
knots are pictured from the viewpoint of the wearer. The loop at the
bottom presumably encircles a waist. Arrange the knot as in the left
diagram, tighten as much as desired by pulling the uncomplicated end
(indicated by the arrow). Then, before slacking off, pull the other end
smartly, which “sets” the knot. Finally arrange the turns so that they
are symmetrical.
1224. A somewhat similar-appearing knot for the same purpose
but with the addition of a loop. Half knot the single right cord and
the looped left cord together. Thrust a bight from the right cord
through the loop of the left cord and draw up the end of the left
cord. Arrange the knot so that the pans are symmetrical.
1225. The Hitched Loop is a secure knot sometimes seen in a chest
lashing. A Loop Knot or an Eye Splice is tied in one end, the other
end is rove through the eye, and after it has been drawn up to the
requisite tautness, a Single Hitch is made with the end around the
eye in the manner shown in the illustration. The form is the same as
the Becket Hitch.
1226. A Hitched Loop. This is a more practical Drawknot
for heavy parcel tying. Make Loop Knot #1009 or Bowline #1010
in one end. Reeve the free end through the eye or loop and after
pulling to the desired tautness add Two Half Hitches. This is not
so neat in appearance as the previous knot, but it is easier to draw up
and make fast.
1227. A Parcel Knot based on the Harness Bend (# 1474). With
one end tie a Crossing Knot around the other. Hold snug and pull
the uncomplicated end through to the required tautness. Without
slacking or rendering anything that has been gained, add a Half
Hitch with the free end. This is a particularly secure knot and, once
the technique is mastered, a most practical one.
1228. A “Jam” Knot. There are several of these to be given.
They are akin to Nooses but, once drawn up, they are not intended
to render, or else they are supposed to hold temporarily while the
end is being made fast. They may be tied in the initial girth of a
lashing and do not have to be held in hand while the lashing is com-
pleted as the ordinary Noose does. This well-known knot wa$
shown in Diderot’s Encyclopedia (1762).
[2221
BINDING KNOTS
1229. The Buntline Hitch serves well as a Jam Knot. It consists
of a Clove Hitch tied around its own standing part in the opposite
way to which Two Half Hitches are taken.
1230. The Magnus or Rolling Hitch may be tied in the way
pictured with the round turn outside and the Half Hitch within
the encompassing circuit of the knot. This is the reverse of the Mid-
shipman’s Hitch. Cotton brokers used to carry their samples in a
large roll of paper tied about with either this or a worse knot,
this being the best for the purpose.
The knot, having been placed around the roll, was pulled snug
and there it stayed until it was time to open, when all that was
required to slacken it was to grasp the knot and slide it down the
cord. When the package was rewrapped the knot was once more
slid into position to tighten it.
1231. An original knot which answers the same purpose as the
former. It is simple to tie and easy to untie.
1232. Another which belongs in the class with #1228 and #1229
but is not so secure as #1230 and #1231.
Butcher’s Knots belong among the knots given here. They have
the general characteristics of Knots #1228-# 1232. They do not,
however, hold fast until the standing part has been half hitched
around the end. The method of doing this, and a number of the
knots, are to be found among the vocational knots of Chapter 2.
1233 . We have now come to the second variety of Binder Knots
in which the rope passes twice or more around an object or objects
and the ends are tucked under the turns.
The “Diploma Knot” is tied around an object of cylindrical
form, mainly for decorative purposes.
Take three turns around the cylinder, the second and third turns
crossing the first in left diagonals.
Lead the working end across the standing end. Tuck to the right
under the second and third turns and then to the left under the first
turn. The cord is further tucked as shown in the doubled line of the
second drawing. As it stands now it is an excellent Binder Knot.
1234. Continue from #1233 and tuck the ends as indicated by the
single line arrows in the second drawing to form the double lines
of the third drawing. Then tuck both ends again across the knot as
shown by the arrows in the third drawing.
Draw up the knot carefully and tautly. The ends may be left long
and knotted or else tasseled, or they may be trimmed flush. If tied
in soft wire of gold or platinum a handsome ring is formed.
[ 223 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1235. The early Binder Knot, that has supplied the name for
the knots of this chapter, was made from wisps of the straw that was
being bound. A handful was teased out to the required length and
rough-twisted to form a strand sufficient for the purpose. The two
ends were brought together around the sheaf and were laid up to-
gether with a hard twist that was opposite the twist of the strand
itself. A bight from the end was tucked back under the binding, in
the direction shown.
1236. The knot tied by a mechanical binder is the Overhand
Bend, sometimes called the Thumb Knot. It is quite impractical to
tie this by hand for this purpose.
1237. The Girl Scout Hitch is closely related to the Binder
Knot (#1235). The stocking is rolled down, a finger is inserted
below the roll and the roll twisted several turns, after which the end
is tucked down inside the stocking. It should be tucked “against the
twist.”
1238. The knot shown here has a good grip and is the easiest liga-
ture there is to tighten. If out of position, however, it spills easily.
So a Half Knot should be added to make it secure.
A round turn is first taken and a Half Knot is made over this
with the two ends.
1239. The Strangle Knot starts with a round turn and the end
is stuck under two parts. It may be used to tie up a roll. If required,
a loop may be stuck instead of the end, which makes a Slipped
Knot that is one of the best for tying up sacks and meal bags.
1240. With one or two additional turns the Strangle Knot makes
an excellent temporary whipping for the end of a rope. The draw-
ing shows the knot tied with turns the reverse of 7*1239.
1241. The Miller’s Knot (i) is a fairly good Binding Knot that
is often given in farm bulletins. Any of the Miller’s Knots may
employ a bight or loop for the final tuck instead of an end. This
makes Slip Knots of them and saves the bag from being injured
when the cord is being cut.
1242. Miller’s Knot (2). This is the first move for a Three-
Lead, Two-Bight Turk’s-Head. It is a fairly good knot for a
bag, being simple to tie, but it sometimes capsizes.
1243. The Sack Knot is of the same formation as the Fisherman’s
Ground Line Hitch, and also the Artilleryman’s Picket-Line
Hitch. Moreover it is the start of the Three-Lead, Four-Bight
Turk’s-Head. Added to these uses, it serves very well around the
neck of a sack.
1244. The Bag Knot constricts better than most of the knots so
far given and makes a very practical Miller’s Knot.
1245. The Clove Hitch, although an excellent Crossing Knot,
is not a good binder, although often used for the purpose.
1246. A Net Line Hitch from Looe. This holds together two
lines of opposite lay at the head of a seine.
1247. A Net Line Hitch from Clovelly which serves the same
purpose as the last.
1248. The Eskimo Spear Lashing is a strong and decorative
binder that is closely related to the Strangle Knot (#1239).
1249. The Constrictor Knot. At the time when the sinnets of
Chapter 39 were being made there was no knot that would hold
[ 224 ]
BINDING KNOTS
secure the large number of strands that were required for some of
them. For a while seizings were employed, which served the purpose
well but took too much time to tie. Then the knot shown here was
evolved, which proved in every way adequate. So long as the Con-
fTRiCTOR is tied over a convex surface it will not slip. It draws up
easily, has a ratchetlike grip and is the most secure of all Binding
Knots.
In the twenty-five years and more that have elapsed since I first
tied the knot, I have shown it to many people, and a number of
fishermen sailing out of New Bedford now use it for whippings
and stoppings. It is also used for the same purpose in several
chandleries.
I have found it convenient for tying any kind of a roll, for hang-
ing Christmas stockings to a crane, and for seizing garden hose and
atomizer bulbs.
1250. The Constrictor may be slipped, which greatly simplifies
untying, and, so made, it is one of the best of Miller’s Knots.
1251. To tie the Constrictor in the bight, over the end of a mail-
ing tube or other roll, or over a stake: Make a round turn, pull out
a bight and bring it over the end as pictured.
1252. An extra turn may be taken in the Constrictor to provide a
wide permanent whipping.
1253. Another knot that will serve well as a whipping. To tie,
follow the right-hand diagram.
1254. A Binding Knot of three turns that was made to hold a
lanyard in place in the eye of a pricker.
1255. The Transom Knot (see also #1182) was originally made to
hold together the two cross sticks of my daughter’s kite. It will also
serve well in rope but does not untie easily. If more strength is required
another knot of the same kind may be tied on the back at right angles
to the first.
1256. A rubber band is an excellent binder for small objects. It
may be wound until it is tight.
1257. Two rubber bands may be doubled together as shown.
1258. A tourniquet is ordinarily made of a piece of cloth; a pad
should be added where the twist pinches. Its purpose is to stop
bleeding, so it should be placed either above an artery or below a
vein. An Overhand Knot may be placed where the pressure is
wanted.
1259. Another way of tying a tourniquet is shown. This same
method is applied to tightening rope lashings for heavy logs.
1260. Nippers or twisters are twisted around a prisoner’s wrist,
and the handles are held in the grasp of the policeman’s hand.
1261. A nose twitch , used by farriers and veterinaries, is gen-
erally made of a wagon spoke and a piece of small sash cord. It is
passed around a horse’s upper lip below the nostrils and is twisted
sufficiently to hold the horse steady. Sometimes it is put around the
ear but this is not good practice. It is required when teeth are to be
filed, or eye drops are to be given.
To tie: Hang the rope loop around the left wrist, seize the upper
lip with the left hand, hold tightly and with the right hand slip the
loop over the left hand and into place. Still holding the lip with the
left hand, twist the spoke with the right hand.
[ 225 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1262 . (Circa 1600.) The earliest hanks and mast hoops were
grommets, and from the evidence of early prints it seems probable
that grommets were used on yards for bending square sails. The
early grommet was a short rope with the ends short spliced together.
1263 . (Circa 1625.) The earliest authorities agree that “ robins are
small lines rove through the eyelet holes of the sayles and made fast
on the top of the yeards.”
1264 . (Circa 1650.) A print of this period appears to show robins
with a seizing above the head rope.
1265 . (Circa 1750.) Falconer says of robins: “Small rope or
braided cordage— of sufficient length to pass two or three times
around the yard.”
1266 . (Circa 1775.) Du Clairbois says that “ robcmds may have
either one or two legs.”
1267 . (Circa 1800.) Steel (1794) and Lever (1808) describe robins
of two legs, which are put through the eyelet hole as shown. A
round turn is taken with the long end, the short end is brought up
abaft and the two ends are reef knotted on top of the yard. Steel
gives sinnet robands and Lever illustrates rope ones.
1268 . (Circa 1805.) The first intimation of the evolution of the
Roband Hitch from a lashing into a knot was given by Mason
(1806). A turn was made with each of two legs and together these
formed a Clove Hitch.
1269 . (Circa 1845.) Young (1847) says: “Rope-bands are small
pieces of 2 yarn foxes plaited, or of sinnet or spun yarn, they are
not used with jackstays, a number of turns of a single rope yam
being sufficient.”
Biddlecomb (1848) says: “Knittles are to bend the squaresails to
the jackstays in lieu of ropebands.”
1270 . (Anno i860.) The remaining knots on this page were bent
to jackstays. This is the standard Roband Hitch of both the Ameri-
can and the British Navies. Admiral Nares asks the following ques-
tion: “How are all sails bent to the jackstays . ? ” Answer: “With a
Roband Hitch.” To tie the knot: Make two round turns around the
jackstay and through the eyelet hole, and clove hitch the long end
around the jackstay over the turns already made.
1271 . (Anno 1866.) Make a Back-Handed Hitch to the eyelet
hole with a short end and with the long end make two turns around
the jackstay and through the eyelet hole. Put a Clove Hitch around
the jackstay over the first two turns.
1272 . (Circa 1880.) Similar to #1271 but has one less turn around
the stay and through the eye.
1273 . (Circa 1880.) Middle a roband and tie a Back-Handed
Hitch. Make a round turn with one end and with the second end
tie a Clove Hitch over the first end.
1274 . (Circa 1880;) This is the handsomest and most shipshape of
all the Roband Hitches. Follow the numbers in regular sequence.
1275. (Circa 1880.) Make fast a Short Running Eye to the eyelet
hole, take a round turn around the jackstay and through the eyelet.
Tie a Clove Hitch over the turns and add a Single Hitch.
1276 . (Anno 1891.) A roband with a single leg is secured with a
running eye to the eyelet hole of the sail and finished off with a
Clove Hitch to the jackstay.
1277 . (Anno i860.) Alston gives this method for topgallant
and Royal sails. The robands are bent to the sail with running eyes
“the two nearest robands being knotted together.”
[ 22 6 ]
The Turk’s-Head is a tubular knot that is usually made around a
cylindrical object, such as a rope, a stanchion, or a rail. It is one of
the varieties of the Binding Knot and serves a great diversity of
practical purposes but it is perhaps even more often used for deco-
ration only; for which reason, it is usually classed with “fancy
knots.” Representations of the Turk’s-Head are often carved in
wood, ivory, bone and stone.
Lever’s Sheet Anchor (1808) states that a Turk’s-Head, “worked
with a logline, will form a kind of Crown or Turban.” This re-
semblance to a turban presumably is responsible for the name
“Turk’s-Head.”
There is no knot with a wider field of usefulness. A Turk’s-Head
is generally found on the “up-and-down” spoke of a ship’s steering
wheel, so that a glance will tell if the helm is amidship. It provides a
foothold on footropes and a handhold on manropes, yoke ropes,
gymnasium climbing ropes, guardrails, and life lines. It serves instead
of whippings and seizings. It is employed as a gathering hoop on
ditty bags, neckerchiefs and bridle reins. Tied in rattan, black
whalebone or stiff fishline, it makes a useful napkin ring, and it is
often worn by racing crews in “one-design classes” as a bracelet or
anklet. It will cover loose ends in sinnets and splices. It furnishes a
handgrip on fishing rods, archery bows and vaulting poles. It will
stiffen sprung vaulting poles, fishing rods, spars, oars and paddles.
On a pole or rope it will raise a bole big enough to prevent a hitch
[ 227 j
VC
1
r\
A
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
in another rope from slipping. On edged tools it makes an excellent
hand guard, and on oars and canoe paddles, a drip guard. It is found
employed decoratively on whips, lanyards, telescopes, hatbands,
leashes, quirts, and harness; on wicker chairs and basketry; on bell
ropes and tassels. Old chest beckets, bell ropes and yoke ropes are
resplendent with them.
There are three distinct kinds of Turk’s-Heads that are much the
same in appearance, but are differently constructed. They are: (i)
the Standing Turk’s-Head, which is tied with any number of
strands; (2) Coach whipping, which is tied with any even number
of strands; and (3) the common Turk’s-Head, sometimes called the
Running Turk’s-Head, which is tied with a single strand.
The name, “Standing Turk’s-Head,” appears in Nares’ Seaman-
ship of i860. The knot is employed where any slipping would be
disastrous. It is found particularly on footropes, and also on Jacob’s
ladders, where it serves to hold the rungs in place.
1278. If a Standing Turk’s-Head is to be made around a three-
strand rope, take two pieces of small stuff, one piece being half the
length of the other, and side splice the shorter piece to the middle
of the longer piece.
1279. If small braided material is used for the Turk’s-Head, half
hitch the end of the short piece around the center of the longer
piece.
1280. If the Standing Turk’s-Head is to be tied around a four-
strand rope, two pieces of the same length are required. Open one
piece at the center and reeve the other piece halfway through it, or
else merely cross the two pieces at half length.
1281. If a Turk’s-Head is to be made around a large braided rope ,
double the small stuff and reeve the bight through the larger rope
to half length. Then cut the bight to provide four ends.
1282. To tie a Standing Turk’s-Head: Insert the three-legged
structure (#1278) into the heart of a three-strand rope, so that a
leg projects from between each two strands. Hold the rope verti-
cally and crown the three legs to the right. Then, holding the rope
as before, wall below the crown, and in the same direction (to the
right), in the manner already described for Footrope Knot #696.
After that, double the lay of the knot by following below each
established lead a second circuit, as described for Footrope Knot
#696. The ends are finally stuck out, under the crown, lengthwise
of the rope. It should now be worked snug and each leg hauled on
strongly. Finally the ends are trimmed as close as is practicable. The
knot may be followed again, which triples it, making a Three-Pl\
Knot. A Four- or even a Five-Ply Knot can be made, but the lattei
is not always satisfactory.
1283. To make the above around a four-strand rope: Arrange
the strands as in #1280 or #1281, and tie in exactly the way de-
scribed for three strands.
If a sailor wishes to tie a wider Standing Turk’s-Head, he first
ties a Diamond Knot and then crowns it, making a Four-Lead
Knot. This is doubled, tripled or quadrupled, if desired.
1284. To tie a Wide Standing Turk’s-Head of any width and
any number of strands: Seize a number of cords securely to a rope
with Constrictor #1249. Hold the rope vertically and crown the
[228]
THE TURK’S-HEAD
legs to the right. Lead the legs down the rope in a right helix and
stop them. Wall the legs to the right. Disregard the stopping and
take each leg in turn, passing it over the next leg to its right, and
tucking it under the second. This process may be repeated as many
times as desired. The legs are tucked in tiers; that is, each leg is
tucked only once in turn, and at no time is any leg advanced more
than one tuck beyond the others. When the knot is wide enough,
double or triple it, as already described.
Each leg of the knot that was just described may be tucked down
to the neck as it lies, or else it may be tucked independently some-
what further, the opposing leg being withdrawn at each tuck so
that the joints are well scattered to prevent unsightly bulges. The
two opposing ends should emerge from under the same part.
1285 . The foregoing knot may be doubled or trebled by parallel-
ing one end with the other. Work the knot snug, pull the ends tight
and trim them close. The number of bights is always equal to the
number of strands and the number of leads is always odd.
The foregoing describes the usual sailor’s variety of Wide Stand-
ing Turk’s-Read. There are really four varieties of the knot, #1284
and the three which follow.
Condensed directions for #1284 and #1285 are as follows: Seize
several strands and crown to the right and then helix downward.
Seize again and wall to the right, then tuck upward over and under,
any number of times. The number of leads is always odd. (This
is the common Standing Turk’s-Head.)
1286 . Seize, crown to the right and helix downward, seize again
and tuck upward, over and under any number of times. The num-
ber of leads is always even.
1287 . Seize, turn down strands in a right helix (without crown-
ing), seize again and wall , then tuck upward over and under any
number of times. This is the reverse of $1286. The number of leads
is always even.
*
1288 . Seize, turn down strands in a right helix (without crown-
ing), seize again and tuck upward over and under any number of
times. This is the reverse of $1284 and #1285. The number of leads
is always odd. The cycle of this is the same as that of the Diamond
Knot.
By the above four methods a Standing Turk’s-Head of any size
may be made.
1289 . The following method, however, gives the same result, and
is the one I have found most convenient. Take a number of legs
equal to the number of bights desired. Middle the legs and seize
them at the center to a rope or other cylinder. Twist the lower set
of legs in a 45-degree helix downward to the right and seize again.
The two seizings should mark the position and length of the pro-
jected knot. Crown the upper set to the left and (1) wall the lower
set to right, or else (2) tuck the lower set upward over and under
without walling. Proceed to tuck both upper and lower sets of legs
over and under until they meet. Opposite ends are then laid in
parallel with each other and the knot is doubled or tripled. The ends
should be scattered so that they do not all project at the same cir-
cumference, which would cause bulging. Draw the knot snug and
trim all ends. With these two starts knots of any size may be made.
[ 229 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1290. Herringbone weave . Take six or eight rather long strands.
Lay them along a cylinder, and seize them twice as before. Make a
helix between the two seizings as directed for the last knot.
Tuck the lower legs up and to the right over one and under one
to the rim.
Turn the structure end for end and do the same with the other set
of legs. The right diagonals will now be double and the left diago-
nals single, and will appear as in the first diagram.
Stick the lower set of legs to the left over two and under two as
illustrated (study the diagram carefully).
Turn the structure end for end and do the same with the other set
of legs.
Continue to stick all legs over two and under two until they meet.
Scatter the ends well and, finally, stick opposing legs under the same
two parts, cut the seizings, draw up the knot evenly, scatter the
ends and trim them. This makes herringboning that runs with the
width of the knot.
1291. Herringboning , parallel with the length of the knot , is
started in the same way as the last. After one helix has been doubled
stick the lower set of legs to the left under two as illustrated. Then
turn the structure end for end and do the same with the second set of
legs. Continue to stick all the legs over two and under two and re-
peat until they meet. Finally scatter the ends, stick the opposing legs
under the same two parts, cut the seizings, draw up the knot and
trim the ends.
1292. Herringbone weave by another method: Middle and seize
a group of legs sufficient in number to fit closely together around
the cylinder that is to be covered. After the legs have been helixed
and seized a second time at the bottom, take the set of lower legs
and stick each one to the right over one strand and under three
strands, then over one and under three again. Turn the structure
end for end and tuck each strand over one and under three, and
continue to tuck over one and under three until the two sets meet,
where care must be taken that the over-one-under-three sequence
is unbroken. The ends are to be well scattered and trimmed as al-
ready described.
Other textures may be made by this method such as over-two-
and-under-two, or over-two-and-under-three, etc.
1293. Cutting out strands. The Standing Turk’s-Heads are often
used for “cutting out” strands on sinnet lanyards which it is desired
to taper. Two, three, four, or even five strands may be laid out of
the sinnet at one time and Standing Turk’s-Heads are tied with
them after the lanyard is completed. If one strand only is to be cut
out, Turk’s-Head #1304 may be tied. If, however, two strands are
to be cut out of a sinnet, the accompanying knot, which has four
bights and is handsomer than the straight crown and wall of two
bights, may be used. This knot may also be made in an untapered
sinnet with the two legs of a single cord which has been thrust
through the sinnet.
To tie: Lead the two ends as shown in the diagram, then double
as many times as desired and draw up snugly. Finally trim the ends.
1294. Structurally cross grafting or cross pointing is the same
thing as Round Sinnet except that the former is employed as a
covering around a rope or core. More strands (always an even num-
[ 23° ]
THE TURK’S-HEAD
ber) may be used and the ends are “finished off” decoratively, in-
stead of being seized as in the Round Sinnet. This is the preferred
method for covering long rails and stanchions aboard ship.
Take any number of strands (in this case an even number is not
required), seize them at the middle around a rope or rail and twist
slightly so that the upper ends all rotate to the right, as in a right
corkscrew, and the lower ends to the left. Now turn the upper set
downward, and using both sets, one leading to the right, one to the
left, lay up a section of Round Sinnet of the length wanted for the
knot. Make as directed for Sinnets #3021 and $3022. But use the
rope or rail as a core. Seize at the end and fair all strands. If it is
desired to double this, work the ends back into the structure parallel
with the legs of the opposing set, using a sail needle if convenient.
Do likewise with the other legs until the whole surface is closely
doubled or tripled. Scatter the ends well and trim the knot closely.
1295 . The term Coachwhipping is also commonly applied when a
covering is made by the Square Sinnet method ($3001). Several
parallel strands are worked as a unit, around a. rope or rail, the whole
surface being covered in one operation and the ends tucked back at
the rim and scattered.
The name Coachwhipping is given in Alston's Seamanship of
i860 and the name “Whip Stich” [sic] was applied to it by Ned
Ward in 1707.
A Coachwhipping of four leads is the usual thing. It is made with
doubled or tripled strands as described for Sinnet #3015. In cover-
ing a long rail the boatswain should have the assistance of a “mate.”
The parallel cords are wound in balls or on bobbins.
1296 . With six leads (Sinnet #3016) a boatswain’s mate is indis-
pensable, if the bobbins are to remain disentangled.
1297 . In making the knots of this chapter the direction of the
strands around the cylinder can be deflected so that the same ma-
terial will cover a very varied, circumference.
1298 . Instead Gf sticking the ends back into the structure they
may be tied at the rim in a Diamond Knot, each set of parallel ends
being worked in a unit, after which the ends are sometimes “trimmed
long” and left to form a fringe. This is quite common on stanchions.
The top edge of the knot may be straight, not scalloped, if arranged
as shown in #1295. Ordinarily the knots of the Turk’s-IIead family
have scalloped rims as detailed in #1296.
1299 . A commoner method of finishing off Coachwhipping on
long rails is to trim all ends close to the seizings and then to cover
them with narrow independent Turk’s-Heads made of the same or
smaller material. For such purposes tarred fishline is often used.
Turk’s-Heads may be made of cord, thongs, tape, shoestrings,
jtraw, cellophane, wrapping paper and other flattened materials, and
the rims turned as illustrated in $1895. The ends of flat materials
are laid above and underneath each other before trimming. (Round
material is laid alongside.) Flat ends can be pasted, cemented, glued,
riveted, seized, sewed or spliced together. Pull them forcibly to the
surface, distorting the knot no more than is necessary, fasten them
ind when fast, work them back out of sight again before cutting
them off. It is commonly unnecessary to fasten the ends of ordinary
Turk’s-Heads if they have been properly drawn up.
[231]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1300. Coachwhipping, based on Square Sinnet, makes a herring-
bone weave. The directions for Square Sinnet are given on page
493. This may be made with eight strands around a rope or rail, and
gives four lengthwise rows of “herringboning.” The legs may be
left long enough for sticking back at both ends, which is done in
the manner shown as #1290.
1301. Square Sinnet of twelve and sixteen strands can be em-
ployed in the same way, using three or four strands to each unit, as
the case may be.
1302. Six rows of herringboning will result if the strands are led
as shown here. Care must be exercised in these last two to arrange
the seizings so that the rims will be symmetrical. The ends should
be stuck back with a needle before removing the seizings. Some of
the ends are stuck once and trimmed, others are led back two and
three tucks in order to scatter them. Coachwhipping ordinarily is
not doubled; it is completed in one operation. But if the surface has
not been completely covered, double the knot, using a needle.
The common Turk’s-Head is made of a single continuous line and
is an older knot than the multi-strand one. Sometimes it is called the
Running Turk’s-Head, a term which may have been applied in
contradistinction to Standing Turk’s-Head, or it may be descriptive
of the sailor’s use of the knot as a gathering hoop or puckering ring
to slide up and down on bag lanyards, neckerchiefs, etc. It should be
understood that whenever the name “Turk’s-Head” is applied by
sailors without qualification, the single-line knot is always the one
that is referred to.
The name “Turk’s-Head” first appears in Darcy Lever’s The
Sheet Anchor (1808), but the knot is much older. I have a powder
horn dated 1676 which has several Turk’s-Heads carved around
it, and Leonardo da Vinci (1452-1519) shows a number in disk form,
in a drawing that is reproduced by Ohrvall in Om Knntar (1916).
In discussing the Single-Strand Turk’s-Head the use of the word
strand will be avoided as it is ambiguous. Cord or line will designate
the material of the knot and the word lead will designate a single
circuit of the cord around the cylinder or barrel. The size of a knot
is designated by the number of its leads and bights. Bights are the
scallops or coves formed by the cord where it changes direction
at the rims. The total number of leads denotes the width of a knot
along the cylinder, and the total number of bights denotes the length
of a knot around the barrel or cylinder.
Each reappearance of the cord or lead on the surface will be
termed a part. Only one part, the upper one, is in evidence at each
crossing in the finished knot. To follo*w a cord or lead is to parallel
it with identical over-and-under sequence, which alternates in the
common Turk’s-Head. When a lead has been followed throughout
a whole knot, the knot is said to have been doubled .
The sailor interprets the word double in his own way. When a
finished knot consists of two parallel cords the sailor describes it as
having been doubled twee* when it exhibits three parallel cords
throughout, it has been doubled three times.
A knot that is doubled three times is said by sailors to have three
lays. It is also called a Three-Ply Knot.
Tucking over a cord is the same as passing or crossing over . A
sailor may tuck either under and over, or over and under.
1303. 1305. Ordinarily the sailor ties a Turk’s-Head directly
around his fingers. When it has been formed it is placed around the
object that is to be its permanent support.
[ 2 3 2 ]
THE TURK’S-HEAD
There arc two sizes that the sailor commonly tics in this direct
0
manual way: #1303, which has three leads and two bights; and
#1305, which has three leads and four bights.
1304 . An unusual but simple method of tying the Three-Lead,
Two-Bight Tukk’s-Head is to first make the Figure-Eight Knot,
then insert thumb and finger into two compartments as shown, and
pinch them together. When the two ends meet the knot is complete.
1306 . The sailor also ties the Three-Lead by Five-Bight Knot,
either directly or more often by lengthening # 1 305, a process that
is later described as #1316.
1307 . Occasionally he ties directly the Five-Lead by Three-
Bight Knot as show n here. After reaching the position of the left
diagram, the left turn of the two center leads is shifted to the right
over the next one to assume the position of the right diagram. To
complete the knot, follow the line indicated by the arrow. Any of
the Turk’s-Heads may be doubled or tripled by paralleling one end
with the other.
1308 . 1309 , 1310 , 1311 . There are several manual methods of tying
the Four-Lead by Three-Bight Knot. No particular technique is
required. After reaching the position shown in any final diagram
the knot is placed around its permanent support and “faired,” but
not drawn up. The lay is then paralleled as many times as wished
by “following the lead” that has been established. To do this tuck
in one end beside its opposing end, and continue to tuck contrari-
wise and parallel with the other end, following the lead with iden-
tical over-and-under sequence. The second lead must be kept always
on the same side of the first lead, either right or left according to
how it was started. When the knot has as many plies as desired it
is worked snug with a pricker. This is done by progressing from one
end of the cord to the other through the whole knot, back and
forth, gradually pricking up and hauling out the slack. The knot
must not at any time be distorted by pulling too strongly on any
one part. When completed it should be so snug around its support
that it will not slip. To tie #1311: Start as if you were making
Knife Lanyard Knot #787.
I have known several sailors who could tie directly in hand
4L X 5B and 5L X 4B Turk’s-Heads but in each case their methods
were individual and often too cumbersome to be generally practical.
They were also perhaps unnecessary, as it is easier to tie large knots
by raising smaller ones to larger dimensions. For this purpose there
are several different methods to follow.
There is but one actual limitation to the size and proportions of
Single-Line Turk’s-Heads: A knot of one line is impossible in
which the number of leads and the member of bights have a common
divisor . All others are possible if the knot tier has sufficient time and
cord at his disposal.
This “Law of the Common Divisor” was discovered at the same
time by George H. Taber and the author.
The operation of the Law of the Common Divisor is quite simple.
For example, within the limits of twenty-four leads and twenty-
four bights there are 576 combinations. Of these combinations, 240
have a common divisor and cannot be tied as a Turk’s-Head, and
336 have no common divisor and can be tied. If a knot is attempted
in one cord with dimensions that possess a common divisor, the
working end and the standing end will meet before the desired knot
is complete. Such a knot, being composed of more than one line, can
be tied only as a Multi-Strand Knot.
[ 233 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1312 . There is one exception to this “law”: knots of one bight
may be tied with one strand and with any number of leads.
This provides, among other anomalies, the only Turk’s-Head in
which the number of leads and the number of bights is equal
(iL X iB).
1313 . The same knot may be doubled if wished; the illustration
gives a Four-Ply Knot of one lead and one bight.
1314 . A knot of three leads and one bight only is here illustrated.
A Census of All Single-Line Turk’s-Heads Containing Not More
Than 24 Bights and 40 Leads
X stands for an impossible knot; all others may be tied .
NO. OF LEADS
(10) (jo) (jo) (40)
1 *345678901 2 34567890 1 2345678901 j $4567890
l
1 XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX 9
iXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
4 X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X
$xx XXX XXX*
6 XXXX X XXX X XXX X XXX X XXX X XXX X XXX
7 * * x X x x
8 XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
QXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
10 XX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX X X
11 X X X X
12 XXXX X XXX X XXX X XXX X XXX X XXX X XXX
*J * X X X
14 XX X XXX X XX X X XXX XX X X X XXX XX
IJ X X XX XX X X X XX XX X X X XX XX
I6 XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
• 7 * * X
18 XXXX X XXX X XXX X XXX X XXX X XXX X XXX
19 X x X
20 XX XXX X X X XXX X X X XXX X X X XXX X X
21 X X XX X X XX X X X XX X X XX X
22 XX X X X XXX X X X X X X X X X XXX X X X
1 J 1 X
24 XXXX x XXX X XXX X XXX X XXX X XXX X XXX
All Turk’s-Heads of two leads are Overhand and Multiple Overhand
Knots.
A good practical way to plan Turk’s-Heads is to take a prime number
for the larger dimensions (5, 7, 11, 13, 17, 19, 23, 29, 37, 41, etc.) and to
use any smaller number, either odd or even, for the other dimension.
1315 . The simplest method of enlarging or raising Turk’s-Heads
to larger dimensions is based on Knots #1303 and #1305.
After first tying a 3L X 4B Turk’s-Head Knot (#1305) very loosely,
bring the left bight under the next and down to the center position and
continue to plat, leading alternate sides under to the center, exactly as in
ordinary Three-Strand Sinnet. One end and both bights are platted and
the working end has to be disentangled from time to time from the
bights. A new knot is completed each time the working end is brought to
the same rim with the standing end; and each time this occurs three new
bights have been added to the knot.
1316 . After tying Knot #1303 (3L X 2B) or Knot #1305
(3L X 4B), start with the left end, bring it over to the center, and
continue to plat as Three-Strand Sinnet.
With these two starts, all possible Turk’s-Heads of three leads are
made. These may be doubled, tripled or quadrupled if wished. Numbers
1315 and 1316 are the common methods that have “always been used”
for lengthening Three-Lead Turk’s-Heads.
1317 . Recently I have found what appears to be a simpler method.
Take two right round turns about an object (the left hand) and start
at once to plat, leading with the left end. Hold the upper end and bights
firmly in position until the plat is well started. A Turk’s-Head is com-
pleted each time both ends are brought to the same rim. The start shown
makes a 3L X 4B Turk’s-Head which, by continuing to plat, will build
up into 3X7, 10, 13, etc.
1318 . Arrange two round turns in the same way as #1317 but
commence to plat with the right end instead of the left. Numbers
1317 and 1318 will give all possible Three-Lead Turk’s-Heads.
THE TURK’S-HEAD
1319, 1320, 1321. In the methods just given the Turk’s-Head was
increased in only one of its two dimensions, its length; the number
of bights was aaded to, but the number of leads remained the same,
and its width was unchanged. The Turk’s-Heads immediately to
follow are increased in both dimensions at each operation. There
are three different groups to consider:
1319. In “Square Turk’s-Heads,” as sailors call them, the number
of leads is always one greater, or one less, than the number of bights.
1320. In Wide Turk’s-Heads the number of leads exceeds the
number of bights by two or more (with one exception only).
1321. In Narrow Turk’s-Heads the number of bights exceeds
the number of leads by two or more (with one exception, of the-
oretical interest only).
Several authors have discussed the way of “raising” Square Turk’s-
Heads to larger dimensions: Taber, Ohrvall, Saito, Bocher, Spencer, and
Griswold. But Taber alone has noted that it takes four different starts to
make all possible Square Turk’s-Heads. ( Method of Making C ~ L ~ /
Turksheads by George H. Taber, Pittsburgh, 1919, privately published.)
His paper covers Square Turk’s-Heads exhaustively in mathematical
terms. Ohrvall gives three of the starts, Saito and Griswold give two
each, the other authors give but one. Griswold’s illustrations are excellent.
He describes Square Turk’s-Heads made of thongs over leather collars.
In addition to the Square Turk’s-Head discussions, Taber, Griswold
and Spencer give methods of raising Wide Turk’s-Heads, in which the
number of leads exceeds the number of bights by two or more.
So far as I know, there has been no description published of a method
of raising Narrow Turk’s-Heads, in which the number of bights exceeds
the number of leads by two or more (except methods #1315 and #1316
in which the number of leads is always three). But Narrow Turk’s-
Heads may be made by methods similar to those given for Wide Turk’s-
Heads and they have a greater variety than the wide ones.
1322. The sailor commonly employs two ways of raising Square
Turk’s-Heads to larger dimensions: He may start with either a
4 l X 3 B Turk’s-Head or a 3 L X 2 B Turk’s-Head tied in hand
and, each time two circuits around the hand are added, a larger
Turk’s-Head results. The 4 L X 3 B Turk’s-Head is commenced
with an Overhand Knot, and the end is led as shown here.
1323. The 3 L X 2 B Knot is first tied as #1303 and is then raised
as shown here in the left and right diagrams. In both these knots
(#1322 and # 1323 ) the working end is constantly laid parallel and
ahead of the last previously laid circuit and with the contrary over-
and-under. The method is described in detail on the page to follow.
To make all possible Square Turk’s-Heads two more starts are
required; the 3 L X 4 ® and the 4 L X 5 B (or 2 L X 3 B). I have never
seen a sailor employ either of these.
1324. Turk’s-Heads may be more easily tied around a wooden
cylinder than around the hand, using pins to hold the bights in place.
To tie a Square Turk’s-Head on a cylinder: Take a wooden stick ap-
proximately round and about four inches in diameter and twelve inches
long, a more convenient apparatus is shown at the end of this chapter.
Draw two parallel lines around the circumference four inches apart and
equidistant from the ends of the log. Two elastic bands will serve to
establish and fair the lines. Mark thirty-one evenly spaced points around
these lines, employing a pair of dividers, or else follow the directions for
spacing given on the last page of this chapter. Drive small brads at these
established points and leave about a quarter of an inch projecting.
Place the cylinder or barrel across the knees and number the pins,
away from you, 1 to 3 1 ; opposite pins in the two lines are to be numbered
alike. Take a piece of small braided cord and tie an end to left pin 1.
[ 235 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1325 . Start “A.” Knots having an odd number of leads and an
even number of bights. (3L X raises to 5L X 4B, 7L X 6B, etc.)
Lay cord diagonally away from you to the right and around pin 17.
Lay cord diagonally away from you to the left and around pin 2. Lay
cord diagonally away from you to the right and around pin 18. Continue
to lay the cord parallel to and in advance of the established lead. Turn
so that the work is constantly on top. All crossings are over until two
adjacent parallel leads are to be crossed at the end of the fourth diagonal.
Cross these with under-and-over that is contrary to the parallel lead,
forming a regular “basket weave.” The working end crosses a standing
part each time it is led to the left rim. With this start a knot is completed
each time the ends are brought together around the barrel outside the left
rim, as in illustration #1329. The number of bights is even.
1326 . Start “A.” Knots having an even number of leads and an
odd number of bights (starts with 2L X iB and raises to 4L X 3B,
6L X 5B, etc.).
Lay cord 1, 17, 2, 18 as before, and continue to lay parallel with estab-
lished lead. The first crossing is over (17 to 2), the second crossing is
under (2 to 18). All crossings thereafter are contrary to the parallel lead.
A knot is completed each time both ends are at the left rim and the num-
ber of bights is odd.
1327 . Start “B.” Knots having an odd number of leads and an even
number of bights (starts with 3L X 4B which raises to 5L X 6B,
7L X 8B, etc.).
Lay cord diagonally away from you to the right and around pin 16.
Lay cord diagonally away from you to the left and around pin 31. Lay
cord diagonally away from you to the right and around pin 15. Continue
to lay cord parallel to other diagonals. All crossings are over until two
parallels are to be crossed. Cross these with over-and-under, which is con-
trary to adjacent parallel lead, and continue contrary to parallel lead. A
knot is completed each time the ends cross on the barrel to the left of
all other leads and the number of bights is even.
1328 . Start “B.” Knots having an even number of leads and an
odd number of bights (starts with 2L X 3B which raises to 4L
X 5 B , 6L X 7B, etc.).
Lay cord 1, 16, 31, 15, 30, 14 as before and continue to lay cord parallel
with the established lead. The first crossing is over (15 to 30) and the
second crossing is under (30 to 14). Thereafter crossings are contrary to
the parallel lead. A knot is completed each time the ends cross on the
cylinder to the left of all other leads and the number of bights is odd.
Whenever, in tying the four knots just given, the required number of
leads and bights have been attained, the knot may be doubled or tripled
as already described. All possible Square Turk’s-Heads may be tied with
one of these four starts.
1329 . The illustration shows how to complete a knot commenced
with Start “A” as either #1325 or #1326.
1330 . The illustration shows how to complete a knot commenced
with Start “B” as either #1327 or #1328.
[236]
THE TURK’S-HEAD
Wide Turk’s-Heads with an Even Number of Bights, in Which
the Number of Leads Exceeds the Number of Bights by Two or
More (with One Exception)
This group also has four different starts. In Start “A” (#1331) and
Start “B” ($1333) the cord encircles the cylinder any even number of
times beginning with two before returning to the left rim and in Start
“A” (#1332) and Start “B” (,#1334) the cord encircles the cylinder any
odd number of times beginning with three before returning to the left
rim.
Take a wooden cylinder about twenty inches long and one and a half
inches in diameter. Make two parallel rows of pins around it twelve
inches apart, with twelve pins in each row. Place the cylinder or barrel
across the knees and number the pins 1 to 12 away from you, and with
the same numbers opposite each other in the two rows. Secure a cord to
left pin 1.
1331. Start “A.”
Lead the cord away from you in a right diagonal to pin R. 1. Lead the
cord away from you in a left diagonal to pin L. 2. (Take care that the
two diagonals progress the same distance, which will be either once,
twice, etc., around the cylinder.) This makes an even number of turns.
Note that in Start “A” $1331 and #1332 the working end is always led
on the far side of the previous diagonal.
1332. Start “A.”
Lead the cord away from you in a right diagonal to pin R. 7. Lead the
cord away from you in a left diagonal to pin L. 2. This makes an odd
number of turns. Be certain that both diagonals progress the same dis-
tance.
1333. Start “B.”
Lead the cord away from you in a right diagonal to pin R. 1. Lead the
cord away from you in a left diagonal to pin L. 12. This makes an even
number of turns. Be certain that both diagonals progress the same dis-
tance. Note that in Start “B” the working end is always led on the near
side of the previous diagonal.
1334. Start “B ”
Lead the cord away from you in a right diagonal to pin R. 7. Lead the
cord away from you in a left diagonal to pin L. 12. This makes an odd
number of turns. Be certain that both diagonals progress the same dis-
tance.
1335. To complete a Two-Bight Knot from Start “B” #1334.
All crossings are over until the fourth (left) diagonal. The first cross-
ing after the fourth diagonal is under. Thereafter continue to tuck con-
trary to the established lead of the adjacent parallel diagonal. The knot
is completed where the arrow indicates in the illustration.
1336. To increase Knot #1335 or any other Start “B” knot, to a
larger knot of four or any other number of bights, proceed as
follows :
All crossings are over until the fourth diagonal. The first crossing of
the fourth diagonal is under. The first crossing of the fifth (right) di-
agonal is under and the lead thereafter is contrary to the lead of the
adjacent parallel diagonal. Continue until the knot has four, six, eight, or
any even number of bights and complete by bringing the ends together
as in the diagram.
It will be found that every Two-Bight Knot may be made with either
Start “A” or Start “B” (except 3L X 2B) but that in enlarging a knot by
different starts they will increase at different rates.
1337. In Start “B” all crossings are over until the fourth diagonal;
and in the fourth diagonal, and thereafter, the lead is contrary to
the established lead of the adjacent parallel diagonal. A knot is com-
pleted whenever there is an even number of bights at both rims:
2 , 4 , 6 , 8 , etc., and the ends have been brought together.
1331 A
1-333
13353
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
Wide Turk’s-Heads with an Odd Number of Bights
Starting with knots of three bights, which may be raised to any
odd number of bights, the number of leads may be either odd or
even but the number of bights and the number of leads may have
no common divisor.
1338. Start “A.” The cord is secured at L. i and encircles the cyl-
inder an even number of times (two or more) before returning to
the left rim. The second diagonal crosses the first diagonal an even
number of times. (The smallest knot is 7 L X 3 B.)
1. Make a right diagonal and round pin 1. 2. Make a left diagonal and
round pin 2. Lead is over and under. 3. Make a right diagonal and round
pin 2. Lead is over and under. 4. Make a left diagonal and round pin 3.
Over and under is contrary to adjacent parallel lead. 5. Make a right
diagonal and round pin 3. Over and under is contrary to adjacent parallel
lead. 6. Make a left diagonal and round pin 4, then bring ends together as
in second diagram.
1339. Start “A.” The cord encircles the cylinder an odd number
of times (three or more) before returning to the left rim. The two
diagonals are equal.
The second diagonal crosses the first diagonal an odd number of times.
(The smallest knot is 10L X 3B.) 1. Make a right diagonal and round pin 6.
2. Make a left diagonal and round pin 2. Lead is over and under. 3. Make
a right diagonal and round pin 7. Lead is contrary to parallel lead and
alternately over and under. 4. Make a left diagonal and round pin 3. Over
and under contrary to the parallel lead. 5. Make a right diagonal and
round pin 8. Over and under contrary to parallel lead. 6. Make a left
diagonal and round pin 4. Bring the ends together around the barrel.
1340. Start “B.” The cord encircles the cylinder an even number
of times (two or more) before returning to the left rim. The two
diagonals are equal.
The second diagonal crosses the first diagonal an odd number of times.
(The smallest knot is 5L X 3B.) 1. Make a right diagonal and round pin
1. 2. Make a left diagonal and round pin 12. Lead is over and under. 3.
Make a right diagonal and round pin 12. Over and under contrary to
parallel lead. 4. Make a left diagonal and round pin 11. Lead is first over,
then contrary to the parallel lead. 5. Make a right diagonal and round
pin 1 1. Lead is first over, then contrary to the parallel lead. 6. Make a left
diagonal and round pin 10. Lead is over and under. Knot is complete at
last crossing.
1341. Start “B.” The cord encircles the cylinder an odd number
of times before returning to left rim. The two diagonals are equal.
The second diagonal crosses the first diagonal an even number of times.
(The smallest knot is 8L X 3 B 0 i- Make a ri g ht diagonal and round
pin 6. 2. Make a left diagonal and round pin 12. Lead is over and under,
etc. 3. Make a right diagonal and round pin 5. Lead is under and over,
etc. 4. Make a left diagonal and round pin 11. First over, then contrary
to parallel lead. 5. Make a right diagonal and round pin 4. First under,
then contrary to the parallel lead. 6. Make a left diagonal and round pin
10. Lead is over and under. Knot is complete at last crossing. To raise
any of these Three-Bight Knots to larger size: Continue to lay cord
with over-and-under contrary to adjacent parallel lead. A new knot
results each time the number of bights is odd. If the number of pins on
the cylinder is equal to the number of bights desired for the completed
knot, there will be less distortion than when there is a surplus of pins, and
the knot will require less working. This is true of any Turk’s-Head, But
a slight initial distortion is unimportant if it does not confuse the tier, as
it disappears quickly when the knot is worked. The knots are doubled
exactly as other regular Over-and-Under Turk’s-Heads.
THE TURK’S-HEAD
To Raise Narrow Turk’s-Heads in Which the Number of Bights
Exceeds the Number of Leads by Two or More (with One
Exception, 2 L X 3®)
“ Staggered ” Pattern
Take a wooden cylinder four inches in diameter and twelve inches
long, encircled with two rows of pins, the circles four inches apart, with
31 pins in each circle. Hold the cylinder across the knees with the cord
secured at pin L. i.
General Directions for All Sizes
Lay the cord diagonally away from you and around a pin at the right
rim. Continue to stagger your cord left and right any even number of
diagonals (not less than four, and, for this apparatus, not more than six-
teen). Round a pin at each rim, selecting pins that are equidistant from
each other. When one circuit of the barrel has been made, the cord is led
around either left pin 2 (Start “A”) or left pin 31 (Start “B”). Thereafter
continue to parallel the lead established until the Turk’s-Head is formed.
With four diagonals (Start “A”), start at left 1-9- 17-25-2. The cord is
led alternately from left side to right side but starts at left (1).
With four diagonals (Start “B”), left 1-9-16-24-31.
With six diagonals, left r-6-1 1-16-21-26 (to 2 or 31).
With eight diagonals, left 1 -5-9-1 3-1 7-2 1-25-28 (to 2 or 31).
With ten diagonals, left 1-4-7- 10- 13- 16- 19-2 2-2 5-2 8 ( to 2 or 3 1 )-
With twelve diagonals, left 1 -4-6-9- 1 1- 14- 16- 19-2 1-24-26-2 9 (to 2 or
3 1 )•
With fourteen diagonals, left 1 -3-6-8- 1 1-1 3-1 5-1 7-19-2 1-23-25-27-29
(to 2 or 31).
With sixteen diagonals, left 1-3-5-7-9-1 1-13-15-1 7-19-2 1-23-25-27-29
(to 2 or 31).
If a barrel with a greater number of pins is used, more initial diagonals
may be employed or the knots may be raised to larger sizes. There is no
theoretical limit to the size. To arrange a larger knot: Divide the number
of pins in one circle by the number of diagonals to be laid and advance
between two diagonals (on one side) a number of pins equal to the whole
number resulting from the division, disregarding all fractions.
Specific Directions for Tying Narrow Turk? s-He ads
Start “A.” With an even number of leads the smallest knot
is 2L X 3B. Fasten cord to pin 1.
1342 . Having reached left pin 2 by passing over the first lead be-
side left pin 1, continue with alternating under-and-over, etc., until
a Two-Lead Knot is complete.
1343 . To raise Knot #1342 continue with a lead contrary to the
adjacent parallel lead.
With an odd number of leads the smallest knot is 3L X 5B.
1344 . Having reached left pin 2 by passing over the first lead
beside pin 1, the lead is over in the second circuit until, when ap-
proaching pin 3, the lead is already found established. Thereafter
take all crossings contrary to the lead of the parallel cord. And if
larger knots are required continue as already directed.
Start “B .” With an even number of leads, the smallest knot is
2L X 5 ®*
[ 239 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1345 . Start at pin i and round pins in the same order as Knot
$1342 until the last, when pin 31 is rounded instead of 2.
Having completed the first circuit, tuck over and under until a
Two-Lead Knot is completed.
1346 . To raise #1345 to a larger size continue with over-and-un-
der contrary to the parallel lead.
With an odd number of leads, the smallest knot is 3L X 7B.
1347 . Having rounded pin 31, continue over at all crossings until
the second circuit is completed at pin 30. The following tuck is
over and thereafter all crossings are contrary to the adjacent parallel
lead.
1348 . Raise to larger size by continuing with ovcr-and-under con-
trary to the parallel lead.
All knots termed even are completed each time the number of
leads is even; all knots termed odd are completed each time the num-
ber of leads is odd.
Condensed Directions for the Knots on This Page and the Preceding
One
To make a Narrow Turk’s-Head on a diagram consisting of a
single staggered line:
If the number of leads is to be even, with either Start “A” or “B,”
the second circuit is alternately over and under. To raise such a knot
to larger size, the over-and-under is contrary to the established
parallel lead.
If the number of leads is to be odd, with either Start “A” or “B,”
all is over until two parallel leads are to be crossed. Cross these with
over-and-under contrary to the established parallel lead. To raise
such a knot to larger size, continue with alternate over-and-under.
A knot starting with an odd number of leads always raises to an
odd number of leads. A knot starting with an even number of leads
always raises to an even number of leads.
The three varieties of enlargement that have been given, Square,
Wide and Narrow, are convenient and comparatively simple to
work. There are, however, considerable gaps between these three
in which lie knots of other proportions. The several methods that
will now be given fit into these gaps, although they by no means fill
them. They serve, however, to show that while it is possible to carry
the method farther, it is scarcely practical. The method tends to
become elaborate and involved, so that beyond these it will probably
be found easier to tic absent knots by one of the several direct
methods that are to be given.
[ 24° 3
THE TURK’S-HEAD
A “DIAMOND PATTERN”
Between Square and Narrow Turk's-Heads
( Directions for knots with only three diagonals in each circuit)
1349 . Start “A.”
5 l X 7B
9L X 13B
13L X 19B
* 350 . Start “A.”
3LX4B
7L X 10B
11L X 16B
1351 . Start “B ”
5LX8B
9L X 14B
I3L X 20B
1352 . Start “B.”
3 L X 5 b
7L X 11B
1 iL X 17B
With cord fastened to left pin r, lead to R. 10, L. 20,
R. 1, L. 10, R. 20, and then to L. 2.
The lead is over except where a parallel lead is
established; there the over-and-under is contrary to
the parallel lead.
The first knot is 5L X 7B, which raises to 9L X 1 3B,
13L x 19B, etc.
This is the same sequence of pins as #1349 but at the
end of the second circuit stick under the opposing
lead when passing pin 1 before rounding pin L. 2.
Thereafter the lead is alternately over and under
until a 3L x 4B Turk’s-Head is complete.
To raise this knot: Where the lead is not established,
the first tuck is under at each rim; elsewhere tuck
contrary to the parallel lead.
Follow the same sequence of pins as above until, at
the end of the second circuit, left pin 31 is rounded.
Thereafter the lead is parallel and opposite to the
established lead. The lead is over-all the first three
circuits. Continue to cross over the first lead en-
countered after rounding each pin. All other cross-
ings are contrary to the over-and-under established
by the parallel lead.
Follow the same sequence of pins as above until the
third circuit, which starts at 31 and continues over
at center and under at rim and thereafter alternates
over and under until a 3L X 5B knot is completed.
To raise this knot to larger dimensions stick under
at the first crossing after rounding each pin. Else-
where the over-and-under is contrary to the estab-
lished parallel lead.
Following the same directions, with any of these four “starts”
knots with any odd number of diagonals in the first circuit may be
tied. At the end of the second circuit pass around either left pin
2 (which is Start “A”) or around left pin 31 (which is Start “B”).
In the first circuit take care that occupied pins are evenly spaced.
A STAGGERED “THREE-LINE PATTERN”
Between Square and Narrow Turk's-Heads
(Somewhat wider than the last)
In the next four knots, $1353-56, the course of the cord for the
three circuits that are required to establish the lead is as follows:
1-13-24-5^-1 6-2 8-8-2o-( 2 forStart“A”) (31 for Start “B”)
Thereafter the cord is led parallel with the established lead. With
Start “A” a knot is completed as #1329; with Start “B” a knot is
completed as $1330.
[ 24 1 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1353 . Start “A.” 3L X 4B. 7L X 9®* 13L X 17B. 19L X 25B.
The number of leads is odd. With the cord fast to left pin 1 : ' The lead
is over-all around the pins in the order given above (which is for three
circuits) and continues over-all for one more circuit parallel to the estab-
lished lead. After reaching pin 6 the lead is over at each crossing that is
next to the rim and elsewhere the over-and-under lead is contrary to the
adjacent parallel lead. To enlarge this knot continue to lay the cord
parallel with the lead and with over-and-under contrary to the adjacent
diagonal.
1354 . Start “A.” 4L X 5B. 10L X 13IL 16L X 22L X 2 9 B »
The number of leads is even. The lead is over-all until, in second cir-
cuit, pin 5 is reached. Pass under between pins 5 and 16. Pass over between
pins 16 and 28. Pass under, over between pins 28 and 8. Pass over, under
between pins 8 and 20. Pass under, over, under between pins 20 and 2.
Thereafter the lead is under at left rim and over at right rim. Elsewhere
the lead is over and under, contrary to the adjacent parallel lead.
1355 . Start “B.” 5L X 7B. 11L X 15B. J7L X 23B. 23L X 31B.
The number of leads is odd. The lead is over-all until pin 3 1 is rounded.
Thereafter the lead is under at each rim crossing and elsewhere the over-
and-under is contrary to the parallel lead.
1356 . Start “B.” 2L X 3 B * 8L X iiB. 14L X 19B. 20L X 27B.
The number of leads is even. The lead is over-all until pin 5 is reached.
Pass under between pins 5 and 16. Pass over between pins 16 and 28. Pass
under, over between pins 28 and 8. Pass over, under between pins 8 and
20. Pass under, over between pins 20 and 31. Thereafter the lead is under
at the right rim and over at the left rim. Elsewhere the over-and-undei
is contrary to the parallel lead.
A STAGGERED “THREE-LINE PATTERN”
Between Square and Wide Turk's-Heads
In the next four knots the course of the cord, for the three cir-
cuits that are required to establish the lead, is as follows:
Secure the cord to left pin 1, and lead first to the right.
i-27-i7-io-(2 for Start “A”) (ri_ for Start “B”)
• “ • * •
Thereafter continue to lay the cord parallel to the adjacent lead and
with the opposite over and under.
1357 . Start “A.” 8 L X 5 B - hL X 9 B - 2oL X 13®- 26L X i 7 B *
With the lead as above. Between pins 1 and 27 over-all. Between pins 27
and 17 pass over. Between pins 17 and 10 pass under. Between pins 10 and
2 pass under, over, over. Continue with over-and-under contrary to par-
allel lead. At right rim tuck under , at left rim pass over.
1358 . Start “A.” 5L X 3 B - IlL X 7 B - X 7 L X * lB - 2 3 L X * 5 B -
Between pins 1 and 27 over-all. Between pins 27 and 17 over. Between
pins 17 and 10 over. Between pins 10 and 2 pass over, over, under. Con-
tinue with over-and-under contrary to established parallel lead. At right
rim tuck under , at left rim tuck under .
[ h 2 1
THE TURK’S-HEAI)
1359 . Start “B.” 7L x 5B. 13L X 9B. 19L x 13B. 25L X 17B. Between
pins 1 and 27 over-all. Between pins 27 and 17 over-all. Between pins 17
and 10 pass over. Between pins 10 and 31 pass over, over. Continue with
cver-and-under contrary to the established parallel lead. The first cross-
ing at both rims is over .
1360 . Start “B.” 4L X 3B. 10L X 7B. 16L x 11B. 22L X 15B. Between
pins 1 and 27 over. Between pins 27 and 17 over. Between pins 17 and 10
under. Between pins 10 and 31 under, over. Continue with over-and-
under contrary to established parallel lead. Crossings at the right rim are
over . Crossings at the left rim are under . The illustration shows a com-
pleted 4L X 3B. Turk’s-Head. Continue as directed to complete a Turk’s-
Head of 22L x 15B.
VARIOUS DIRECT METHODS FOR TYING TURK’S-HEADS
The Disk Method
1361 . There are a number of direct ways by which Turk’s-
Heads that do not lend themselves readily to one of the “enlarge-
ment” methods that have been given, may be tied.
The projection of a Turk’s-Head on a plane has certain advantages.
It is easy to plan, easy to form, and the whole knot is visible at all times.
But it is not so easy to work as a Turk’s-Head that has been tied around
a cylinder, as the knot is distorted by having one rim much larger than
the other. This is not always important and there are certain complicated
knots that can hardly be projected by another method. (See #1394 and
#1395.) For regular knots, a large disk may be used with radiating lines
and equispaced circles about the center and with pins at all crossings,
around which different-sized Turk’s-Heads may be tied. But the method
is unwieldy. When a knot is to be tied on a plane surface, it will prob-
ably be found easier to make a diagram that agrees with the knot, such
as the two which follow.
1362 . Take a twenty-five-cent piece, place it in the center of a
sheet of paper, and pencil a line around it. Divide the circumference
with a pair of dividers into a number of parts equal to the intended
number of bights.
Make a series of regular triangles around the outside of the circum-
ference just made, using the ends of each arc to limit one side of each
triangle. From each apex of these triangles, draw two divergent legs,
each foot of which meets the foot of its neighbor. This completes a di-
agram for a Three-Lead Turk’s-Head. To make a wider Turk’s-Head,
continue to add other legs in the same manner. When certain that the
diagram consists of only one line (the number of bights and leads have no
common divisor), you are ready to tie the knot. But if the diagram is
found to consist of more than one line, add another tier of legs. Then,
SLaftmg'aL - the eciuciy pm - d "to id aim ig~ihcr iii ie, - lepeavmg niter irately at
the crossings, “Over, under,” etc., and tucking the end accordingly. Use
a cork board and pin with large flat-headed tacks.
At every point on a diagram four lines meet, or else two lines cross,
which is the same thing. To make a crossing with a cord at such a point,
leave one line to the right, one line to the left, and follow along the line
that remains, which is opposite the standing end.
When a knot has been tied it may be placed around a cylinder, dou-
bled, and worked as already described. There will be considerable surplus
material to be worked out of the rim before the knot takes a proper
cylindrical form.
1363 . Another and perhaps easier way to tie a knot on a disk
is to use the system of notation that has been described in Chapter
1, as #128.
[ 243 ]
THE ASHLER BOOK OF KNOTS
W9o4eni Billet
<ST9SS
1364
pa^er
Mejtal Rail
adheiive TuBd
“Cross-Section” Paper Method
1364. In tying large knots by any direct method, lines of some
sort are wanted for guidance.
One effective way in which to tie a regular Turk’s-Head is to
follow the guidelines on a sheet of cross-section paper which has
been wrapped diagonally around a cylinder. If the scale is small,
use only every second or every third line. The sole drawback to this
method is the difficulty of making the two edges of the diagram co-
incide when brought together around the cylinder. It is rarely that
a wooden cylinder or a mailing tube of precisely the right size is
at hand.
1 365. If the cylinder is a little too small, bind heavy paper tightly
around it to bring it to the right size. If a wooden cylinder is too
large, it may be planed down. If nothing is at hand approximating
the required size, I have found it very convenient to begin by past-
ing the edges of the cross-section paper accurately together with-
out support. After this make a tight roll of a number of thicknesses
of heavy wrapping paper, slip the roll inside the cross-section paper
cylinder and twist the inner roll open until it fits the cross-section
paper snugly. Stick two cork stoppers tightly into the ends of the
roll (which should be the width of the diagram). Finally stick tacks
through the paper into the corks at every dotted bight of the dia-
gram or, if preferred, at every crossing.
1366. If no cross-section paper is handy, wrap a blank sheet of
paper around a mailing tube of any size and snap two elastic bands
around it. Using the elastic bands as guides, draw two circles about
the barrel to represent the rims of the knot and make an even row
of dots around each line to indicate where the pins are to be. (An
easy way to space these dots equally is given on page 256 of this
chapter.) Remove the paper and draw a diagonal line in a 45-degref
angle, away from you, from a left dot to a right one. In the same
manner draw the other diagonals parallel with this one. Then start
at any right point and make a left diagonal away from you to a left
point, crossing a member of lines that is one less than the required
number of leads. Draw other diagonals parallel with this one until the
knot is complete. Replace the diagram, drive tacks and tie the knot.
1367. To make a large knot around a rope , wind several thick-
nesses of heavy paper around the rope with a diagram on the out-
side. Stick heavy pins through the paper, well into the rope. Stretch
the rope between two belaying pins or other supports several feet
apart. This will allow the rope to be twisted sufficiently so that
every side of the knot may be worked with ease.
To tie a knot by this method: Secure an end of cord by thrusting
it through the lay of the rope, to one side of the knot, and, starting
at a left pin, lay it along the line of the diagram, rounding each pin
as it is reached and tucking as already directed.
1368. If a knot is to be tied around a metal stanchion or rail, build
up a shallow' collar at either rim with a dozen or so turns of adhesive
tape, and insert pins or brads between the layers of tape, as illus-
trated. After the knot is made and the pins are pulled our, the knot
may be slipped to one side, the tape removed and the knot doubled
or tripled. If the tape is put over a paper sleeve, the Turk’s-Head
can be turned around the evlinder while being made, which is very
helpful if the cylinder is fixed.
I H4 1
THE TURK’S-HEAD
FOUNDATION METHODS
1369. A guide cord or Pilot Knot.
The proper number of pins for the knot should be placed in two
rows around a wooden cylinder and a temporary structure of black
linen thread laid around the pins, following the line of the projected
Turk’s-Head, all crossings being over .
Tie an end of black linen thread to a left pin, lead it away in a right
diagonal of 45 degrees and around a right pin. Next lead the thread in a
left diagonal to a left pin. If the knot is to have eight leads, this should be
the eighth left pin beyond the initial one. If the knot is to have eleven
leads, it is the eleventh left pin, etc. Continue to lead the black thread
parallel with the initial leads and, if the Law of the Common Divisor has
not been violated, the two ends will meet when all the pins have been
rounded.
Tie the final knot over the Pilot Knot with other material, taking the
crossings over one and under one.
1370. The “Perry Basket” was originated by Manuel Perry.
A Footrope Knot (#743) is tied with tarred codfish line, making a
stiff basketlike structure. This knot is doubled and tripled with a single
piece of other material, after which the initial basket is removed. The
method is ingenious but the stiff basket is difficult to remove without
capsizing the knot; The inventor found that his knots sometimes could
not be made with a single cord, and he finally adopted the Wide Stand-
ing Turk’s-Head method (#1284) when he required a large knot. I was
told that he always had started his Basket with a Crown and Wall
Knot. If he had also employed a Crown and Diamond (#708), his diffi-
culties would have been lessened. For with these two starts all possible
One-Strand Turk’s-Heads can be formed.
1371. The clue method provides an accurate way to make a large
knot.
Although it requires considerable preparation it is one of the easiest
to tie. The pins having been arranged as usual, fasten a black linen thread
to a left pin, and lead it away from you in a 45-degree angle to the right.
Secure it with a Single Hitch to a convenient right pin and cut off the
end at two and a half times the length of the diagonal. Tie another end
to the next left pin and lay a second cord parallel with the first, securing
the end and cutting it off in the same manner as before. Repeat until all
pins are occupied with a series of right diagonals.
Take any one of the long ends, round the right pin, and tuck it, once
only , away from you and to the left. If the number of leads is to be odd,
this tuck is over the first contrary strand, and under the second; but if the
number of leads is to be even, the first tuck is under the first contrary
strand. Having tucked an end once only, proceed to tuck each of the
other ends in the same manner, until all have been tucked, thereby form-
ing a tier of single tucks; then tuck each strand again, over and under,
and continue to repeat, one tier at a time, until the number of strands
crossed by one thread is one less than the number of leads that is planned.
Then tie each end to its proper left pin.
To tie the permanent knot on this foundation: Take a single cord of
different material, middle it and tie the center temporarily to a left pin.
Follow the lead established by the clue until the cord has been doubled
or tripled, using both ends of the cord as needed. Then remove the pins
and the original thread, cutting the clue with scissors wherever necessary.
Work the knot taut.
[ 2 45 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
TO TIE A WIDE KNOT
1372. If an exceptionally wide Turk’s-Head with a small number
of bights is to be tied, a foundation of cross grafting (Round Sinnet)
will provide an even knot requiring little adjustment before work-
m S'
To tie: Middle and seize an even number of strands around the cyl-
inder (not too many, if the knot is to be doubled). Form a Multi-Strand
Knot of the projected size exactly as described under cross grafting
(#2677). When this Foundation Knot is complete, tuck all ends back
into the structure, count the leads carefully and compare with the num-
ber of bights (each strand makes one bight) in deference to the Law of
the Common Divisor. When satisfied, introduce a long single cord and
double the knot before removing the grafting foundation. Continue to
follow the lay until the cylinder is covered.
Each of the methods that has been given has its individual merit and
the reader may find one among them more to his liking than another.
Except in a few cases under Coachwhipping and grafting, the discus-
sion so far has been limited to a straight alternating over-one-and -under-
one lead, which results in a woven surface that is ordinarily termed “bas-
ket weave.” This has been doubled or tripled to make a weave resembling
the textile fabric called monk’s cloth.
Any section of an ordinary Turk’s-Head, before doubling, is identical
with French Sinnet. There appeared to be no reason why other sinnets,
made in circular or wreath form, should not fall under the definition of
Turk’s-Head, and there is probably no sinnet that cannot be made in such
a form. A sinnet in which the various strands helix independently in
different cycles will, of course, require more than one cord. But most
sinnets of practicable size can be arranged to require not more than two
cords.
1373. Paper, straw and other flat material may be turned over at
each rim where a round cord is always slued . This results in a
Turk’s-Head with a straight edge, while round cord gives a scal-
loped edge.
CHAIN SINNET TURK’S-HEADS
1374. Any of the Chain Sinnets may easily be made into Turk's*
Heads by making a section in hand in the usual way (see Chapter
37), and then relaying one end back into the other end. The cords
may be joined on the underside by bringing them together and
putting a Constrictor Knot (#1249) of waxed sail twine around
them, but sewing the ends together will be better. The example
given on this page is common Monkey Chain, which is a crochet
stitch that is sometimes called Single Trumpet Cord.
1375. The illustration shows a Double Trumpet Cord Turk’s*
Head and the way in which the two ends are joined. The sinnet
on which it is based is #287 1 .
1376. The Figure-Eight Chain is joined in the same manner, using
a needle. The knot may be doubled if wished
1377. A Double Figure-Eight Chain Turk’s-Head offers no
difficulties. The crossings are taken with alternate over-and-under.
1378. Netting-Needle Sinnet (#2943, #2944, and #2945) is the
basis for this Turk’s-Head, but there is little resemblance between
them, for there is so much torsion in the sinnet that it is perfectly
round in cross section while in the Turk’s-Head the sinnet is held
flat. The knot is very handsome when made with a “patent-leather”
thong, the grain of the leather being always outermost.
THE TURK’S-HEAD
FLAT SINNET TURK’S-HEADS
An ordinary Three-Lead Turk’s-Head may have its width raised
to five or seven leads, and the over-and-under sequence tucked, so
that it resembles Flat Sinnet #2967. The final sequence of the lead
is over two and under two for a Five-Lead Knot and over three
and under three for a Seven-Lead Knot. If made very carefully,
even nine leads, which is over four and under four, may be success-
fully worked, but beyond this the Turk’s-Head is flimsy.
These knots are made in hand without the use of a cylinder. To tie:
Take a piece of cord about five feet long, middle the cord and tie a
Turk’s-Head in one end. Make either #1305, a 3L x 4B, or #1306, a
3 L X 5B Turk’s-Head.
After the single Turk’s-Head is made, at each tuck either to left or
right, stick the end down at the center beside the first lead w r hich is being
paralleled, until the end is about to cross a doubled strand at the center;
there the end is stuck down between the two lays.
When the standing end is passed a second time it should be passed with
either Start “A” or “B,” in whichever way it was passed the first time.
TO MAKE A FLAT SINNET TURK’S-HEAD
Starting 'with a Regular 3L X 4B Turk’s-Head
1379 . Start “A.”
Cross the working end under the standing end as shown.
1. Tuck to right over one and under two and continue over one and
under two until four leads are met at the end of the circuit.
2. Then tuck over two and under two until five leads are met (second
diagram). To enlarge this:
3. Then tuck over three and under two until six leads are met.
4. Then tuck over three and under three until the end, which makes
a 7L X 9B Flat Sinnet Turk’s-Head.
With a 3L X jB Turk’s-Head for a Base
Start “A.”
1. Tuck right over one and under two until four leads are met.
2. Tuck over two and under two until five leads are met, which makes
a 5 L X 8B Flat Sinnet Turk’s-Head. To enlarge this:
3. Continue over two and under three until six leads are met.
4. Then over three and under three until seven leads are met, which
makes a 7 L x 1 iB Flat Sinnet Turk’s-Head.
W ith a 3L X 4B T urk’s-Head for a Base
1380 . Start “B ”
1. Tuck over two and under one until four leads are met.
2. Tuck over two and under two until five leads are met, which makes
a 5 L X 7 B Flat Sinnet Turk’s-Head. To enlarge this:
Continue to right.
3. Tuck over three and under two until six leads are met.
4. Tuck over three and under three until seven leads are met, which
makes a 7 L X 10B Flat Sinnet Turk’s-Head.
With a 3L X jB Turk’s-Head for a Base
Start “B.”
1. Tuck right over two and under one until four leads are met.
Tuck over two and under two until five leads are met.
3. Tuck over two and under three until six leads are met.
4. Tuck over three and under three until seven leads are met, which
makes a 7 L x 12B Flat Sinnet Turk’s-Head.
C M7 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
HERRINGBONE WEAVE
1381 . The four Square Turk’s-Heads of page 236 lend them-
selves readily to different weaves, of which over-two-and-under-
two and over-three-and-under-three are the simplest. The knots are
tied on the barrel in much the same manner that has been described
already for Knots #1325-28. With an over-two-under-two lead,
a knot is completed each time four bights are added to each rim,
and with over-three-under-three, a knot is completed each time six
bights are added to each rim.
To tie an “Over-Two-Under-Two” Knot: Start as in first dia-
gram in Knot #1325. Take all crossings over until three parallel
leads are encountered. Tuck under the first one in each group of
three, until a group of four parallel leads is met. Thereafter tuck
over two and under two. A knot is completed at any time when the
lead runs over-two-under-two throughout. Then tie the two ends
an “Over-Three-Under-Three” Knot: When the knot
has progressed as far as the first diagram, make one more circuit
over-all . When four parallel leads are encountered, tuck under the
first one of them; when five parallel leads are encountered, tuck
under the first two of them; and when six parallel leads are encoun-
tered, tuck under the first three of them and over the second three.
When completing the knot, butt the ends together as in #1329 and
#1330, ana withdraw them into the middle of the knot without
“doubling.”
together.
To tie
A ROUND SINNET TURK’S-HEAD
1382 . Turk’s-Heads of French Sinnet, Chain Sinnet and Flat
Sinnet have been shown, and only Solid Sinnets have been left
unconsidered.- The first attempted was the Round Sinnet of six
strands, which makes a Turk’s-Head of two cords. A working
drawing was made in circular form, with strands widely separated
so that all crossings were clearly depicted. This proved feasible,
but a more practical method suggested itself. A very loose grommet
(#2864) was made. Into this the ends of three shoestrings were
tucked over and under, exactly as in short splicing, until they en-
circled the grommet, after making the same number of turns but
in the opposite direction as the banding. Opposite ends were then
knotted together, taking care that two ends of the same string
were not bent together. The shoestrings serve merely as a clue. Next
untie one of the three knots and replace the shoestrings with a long
cord of the same material as the grommet. Double the knot that has
been made, using a wire needle. Half knot, and “bury” opposing
ends as in Long Splicing $ 2697.
A core consisting of an ordinary grommet (#2864) is advisable,
if the knot is to be doubled or tripled.
1383 . To make a Turk’s-Head employing a continuous length ol
Three-Strand Flat Sinnet for the basic material: First form an
ordinary Three-Lead Turk’s-Head (#1306) and double it, leaving
one long end. With this end and the two parallel leads already
established proceed to plat a Three-Strand Flat Sinnet in the
ordinary way (#1315 and #1316) but following the line of the
Turk’s-Head that has been formed.
[ 248 ]
THE TURK’S-HEAD
As it stands this knot has no particular charm or use and is
generally regarded as a “trick knot” but it may now be redoubled
by following its nine leads, in the ordinary manner of doubling
Turk’s-Heads (#1311), or it may be made into a Five-Lead Flat
Sinnet, as pictured in the last diagram, by following the directions
given for # 1 379 and % 1 380.
1384 . A grommet of four strands is tied in much the same way
as #1382 and may be doubled in the ordinary way. If tripled, this
will need a core, for which purpose a small ordinary grommet
(#2864) will serve. This makes an excellent deck tennis ring , prefer-
able to the commercial rubber variety since it is much kinder to the
fingernails, and it also has a better grip than the ordinary rope
grommet.
The Four-Strand Round Sinnet Turk’s-Head, tied with raw-
hide thongs, shoestrings or belt laces, makes an excellent slipover
dog collar .
A TURK’S-HEAD OF SQUARE SINNET
1385 . Square Sinnet can also be made into Turk’s-Head form
by the grommet method, but I will give a “cross-section” or “plot-
ting-paper” diagram for tying it, the projection of which provides
an interesting problem and also serves to familiarize the method by
which several knots that are to follow are projected. There are
two cycles in this knot, requiring two cords.
Drive two evenly spaced rows of pins four inches apart around
a wooden barrel, with thirty-four numbered pins in each row.
Make a Guide Knot of eight leads. To do this: Secure a black linen
thread to left pin 1 and progress in the following order from rim
to rim: 1, 4, 9, 12, 17, 20, 25, 28, 33 and thereafter parallel to the
established lead until half the pins are occupied and the cord has
returned to left pin 1 . All the crossings are over .
Then tie another piece of thread to left pin 2 and complete the
other half of the Guide Knot in the same manner, all crossings
having been over.
Secure the permanent cord to left pin 1 and follow the lead of the
pilot thread.
All right diagonals are over-all.
All left diagonals are under-all.
Finally knot the two ends together, which completes the first
cycle.
Secure another permanent cord to left pin 2 and follow the pilot
thread.
All right diagonals are under four, over one, under one, over
one. (Count the leads of the pilot thread but do not tuck under
them . )
All left diagonals are over four, under one, over one, under one.
(Count the leads of the pilot threads but do not tuck under them.)
Each pair of ends is half knotted under opposing parts.
A FLAT KNOT WITH A DOUBLED EDGE
1386 . Make a Guide Knot (#1369) of eight leads and ten bights.
This being done, follow carefully with one cord the sequence
shown in the diagram. Draw up snugly around a cylinder.
[ 2 49 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
SOLID TRIANGULAR TURK’S-HEADS
The next three knots, based on original Solid Sinnets, have a
complexity not to be found in the other Turk’s-Head diagrams. All
the lines in the three diagrams do not progress at the same rate
around the cylinder or barrel; in places they cross and recross each
other. This makes it necessary to place pins in the central part of
the diagrams, between the rims.
A Triangular Turk's-Head of Nine Leads and Two Strands
Based on Sinnet %$028
1387 . Make a single-line copy of the diagram by tracing, photo-
stating, or otherwise.
Take a barrel of the right size (build up by wrapping with ad-
hesive paper if necessary).
Drive pins at the rims and at other places indicated by dots.
Tie the knot by following the over-and-under of the diagram.
There are two circuits and two cords required. When tied, half
knot opposite ends and bury them carefully before working the
knot, which may either be removed to a smaller cylinder or else
drawn up in hand.
A Triangular Turk's-Head of Thirteen Leads
1388 . The diagram given here represents one half the actual length
of the knot. Two tracings of it must be made, each exactly abutting
the other, so that all lines lie fair. A fireplace log slightly under five
and a half inches in diameter will do for a barrel and 180 pins are re-
quired. No one is advised to attempt this who does not take his
knots seriously.
A HALF ROUND TURK’S-HEAD OF SEVENTEEN LEADS
BASED ON SINNET #3054
1389 . If you have successfully made the previous Turk’s-Head
this one holds no new problem, but it will take longer to tie and to
work. Both concentration and patience will be required. Tie with
banding, not with a twisted cord, as the torsion of the latter is
bound to prove bothersome.
Do not allow yourself to become distracted; mere size is nothing
to be afraid of. Ir you can tie one knot, you can tie another. Do one
thing at a time and take plenty of time. Stop now and then to search
for errors. It is better to work deliberately than to make false starts
and have to undo and repeat. If you find an error after finishing,
consider Knot #127 before deciding to start afresh.
If a knot becomes too tight for inserting the flexible wire needle
(#99), open with a pricker and pull the cord through with a loop
buttoner (#990). A hairpin will serve. An upholsterer’s needle is
also an excellent tool for small cords, if the point has first been
dulled and smoothed with a file and emery cloth.
With small cord a knot is sometimes worked snug before adding
the final doubling. This is then put in with a sail needle.
If a particularly tight knot is wanted use a pair of long-jawed
pliers for the final pulling. Grip the cord close to the knot and
with a rolling motion tighten each part in turn, being careful to
exert an even pull throughout the knot.
1 250 ]
THE TURK’S-HEAD
[251 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
A TURK’S-HEAD OF ELEVEN LEADS WITH SQUARE
CROSS SECTION TIED WITH ONE CORD
1390 . This Turk’s-Head is based on a sinnet similar to the one
from which #1386 was evolved. Make a Guide Knot of eleven leads
and six bights (six tacks or pins around the barrel). The sequence
in the right diagonals is over one, under two, and in the left diago-
nals, under one, over two. But the diagram is required to guide the
start of each diagonal.
The knot should be worked around a rope or other cylinder of
about twice the diameter of the cord that is used for the Turk’s-
Head. Mold the knot into a square shape and pound it, if necessary,
with a mallet. Draw up, sink the ends, and trim them off.
A HALF ROUND TURK’S-HEAD
1391 . The objection to many of the Solid Sinnets that are applied
to Turk’s-Head forms is that they bulk too large around the inner
circumference, which causes a crowding there, and there is also
a stretching around the outer circumference. The sample given here
makes a very nice Half Round Turk’s-Head, which does not have
this tendency. It is based on Single-Strand Button diagram #643.
The lay may be doubled, in which case a small Standing Turk’s-
Head or a small Mouse may be used as a core. Besides rendering the
knot firmer, this will make it more secure. Although much simpler
than #1389, this makes quite as effective a Half Round Knot.
A TENNIS BAG LANYARD KNOT
1392 . This was made to secure a lanyard to the iron ring of a
netted tennis-ball bag ($3811). The knot is formed through the
ring, after which the lanyard and net are rove through one of the
compartments. It is here tied by the disk method as a comparatively
simple introduction to several more elaborate knots which follow.
Pin the cord at 1 and tuck the end underneath wherever the cord
crosses itself at a point that is marked with a circle . In this case the
metal ring is also marked with circles and the end is tucked under the
ring wherever it is so marked. When the knot is complete, reeve the
lanyard and net through the compartment indicated by the arrow
and draw it snug.
1393 . It seemed probable that a knot which formed a collar around
the neck of the lanyard might be more practical for the purpose
than the last.
An ordinary 5L X 4B Turk’s-Head was selected, but this was tied
on end , and the ring passed through opposite side compartments in-
stead of through the end compartments of the knot. Another knot,
somewhat in the shape of the letter T, was the next Turk’s-Head
to be tied.
1394 . To tie the letter T: Pin the cord at 1, then follow the line,
pinning at 2, 3, 4, 5, etc., and tucking underneath wherever a circle
is passed in regular numerical sequence .
The first T that was made proved unnecessarily large and the
crossbar of the T was of greater diameter than the standard.
A later trial resulted in the present knot, which corrected these
faults, but is much too large for the purpose for which #1392 and
#1393 were used.
[252]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1395 . It has been shown how sinnets can be adapted to form
Turk’s-Heads. Elsewhere it has been pointed out that the simpler
forms of Turk’s-Heads, Buttons, and Lanyard Knots are super-
ficially similar and that they all are related to the sinnets. The dia-
gram now to be given is far removed from the sinnet form. Else-
where it appears as Multi-Strand Button #922, as Single-Strand
Button #617, and as Lanyard Knots #770 and #772, each form
being quite different in character. To tie the diagram as a Turk’s-
Head requires two cords. After being projected, the knot should
be doubled and then worked very deliberately around a rope, which
is rove through the center compartment of the diagram.
The reader may find among the Button and Lanyard Knots
other diagrams equally applicable to Turk’s-Head Knots, provided
there is no great disparity between the number of bights around
the rim and of parts around the center compartment.
Before tying either this knot, or the Star Knot which follows, it
would be well to place a small Standing Turk’s-Head on the rope
to act as a core with which to prevent the knot’s slipping.
THE STAR KNOT TURK’S-HEAD
1396 . The Star Knot is one of the most individual and distin-
guished of knots. Normally it is a Multi-Strand Stopper, and it is
not easily adaptable to other forms. It appears in both the lanyard
and the Multi-Strand Button chapters and in the latter chapter
several variations are given. In the chapter on Shroud Knots it may
be found modified to serve as a Multi-Strand Bend (#1582).
Each strand in the Star Knot proper has its individual cycle, from
which it does not depart even when doubled. To adapt it to the
Turk’s-Head form it is necessary to divert the line so that the cord
will progress around the diagram. The altered lead is not apparent on
the surface of the finished knot, and a particularly handsome Turk’s-
Head results.
If tied around a three-strand rope, the material for the Star Knot
should be approximately the size of a single strand of the rope, and
the resultant knot will be several times the diameter of the rope.
If a Turk’s-Head is made with a fairly elastic cord it will con-
strict better. But if it is to be placed around a soft rope, stiff ma-
terial may be employed and the ‘‘give and take” of the rope itself
will hold it in place. If both a shiny surface and a stiff cord are to be
contended with, the shiny surface may be shellacked. Lacking these
means, a shallow Mouse (#3499) raised on the rope will assist in
holding a Turk’s-Head stationary.
THE CROSS
1397 . The letter T on page 253 naturally suggested a Turks-Head
in the form of a cross. The Cross that is given here has an upright of
six bights and a crossbar of four.
The proportions of such knots can be varied and, if desired, addi-
tional arms may be projected from other compartments. An easy
way to build up elaborate knots of this sort is to cut the bights of
several knots and then tie the ends of the cords together to form a
single large knot. When completed, substitute a single cord for the
knotted cord. However, unless care is observed, more than one cord
will be required.
[ 2 54 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1398. To space pins evenly around a barrel: Make a triangular
diagram similar to the one here shown and with a number of dots
equal to the number of pins one half inch apart along the base. Take
a straight-edged strip of paper coinciding in length with the circum-
ference of the barrel on which the knot is to be tied. Place it on the
diagram, parallel to the right edge, and move it until the ends of
the paper strip touch the proper lines, when all lines will evenly
intersect the edge of the strip. The two ends of the strip meet when
wrapped around the cylinder and so count as one point only. Mark
the required points on the strip and then transfer them to the barrel.
It does not matter if knots, while being tied, are slightly distorted
on the barrel when not all of the pins are employed. After a knot is
removed to its permanent base it is easily worked into its intended
shape.
1399. In tying a large knot that is to be doubled, always middle
the cord before starting and tie the knot with one end only. Em-
ploy the second end in doubling the knot. This saves dragging an un-
necessary length of material at each tuck.
Instead of tucking a long end, it will be found much more con-
venient to tuck a bight of the working end (from quite near the
knot), and then to draw the end through after it. This keeps the
cord from twisting and kinking, and so destroying the regularity
of the lay.
1400. It will add much to the comfort of Turk’s-Head tying if a
buttonless slipover garment is worn and an armless bow-back chair
or a stool is sat upon. Have no other piece of furniture near by on
which to snag your cord.
1401. The knots of the last few pages were tied on a board, but
for general Turk’s-Head tying a cylindrical object of the sort
illustrated alongside is recommended, although a plain wooden
cylinder of the right size is quite satisfactory. It is often difficult
to remove a knot from the barrel without pulling out the pins. While
this is usually practicable, it is sometimes inconvenient, especially
when several knots are to be tied. A wooden carpenter’s gauge is
the base on which the apparatus is built. A long cylinder to screw to
the gauge head is all that is required. The thumbscrew allows of
adjustment, the barrel may be turned end for end, and when the
thumbscrew is loosened the knot can be removed.
The number of crossing points in any straight “over-one-and-
under-one” Turk’s-Head equals the number of the bights, multi-
plied by one less than the number of the leads. Each crossing makes
one visible “part” on the finished knot. The number of compart-
ments on the surface of a Turk’s-Head, when tied around a cylinder,
equals the number of crossings. But if flattened out on a plane, one
of the two rims closes at the center of the knot, and so adds another
compartment. And if the knot is placed around a sphere, the outer
rim also closes and adds a second compartment.
[ 256 ]
To bend two Cabells or Roapes together , that is, to tye them to-
gether with a Knot, and so to make their own Ends fast upon them-
selves: This is not so sure as Splicing two Roapes together, but it is
sooner done, and most commonly used when we mecme to take them
a-sunder againe, as when a Warp, or any Roape is too short for the
present use.
Sir Henry Manwayring:
The Sea-mans Dictionary, 1644
A bend unites two ropes, or two parts of the same rope, generally
at the ends. Its purpose is to lengthen the rope. In twine, string,
thread, yarn and cord, where the bend is to be a fixture (as a
Weaver’s Knot), or else where the material is to be used but once
and then thrown away, as in parcel tying, bends that jam and refuse
to untie are permissible, or even desirable. But in rope, which is a
valuable product, the bend should be a transient feature and the knot
should render easily to the prick of a marlingspike. A heavy hawser
or cable should be tied with a bend that will respond to the light
tapping of a mallet or fid. In such material a marlingspike should be
employed only as a last resort for, once abraded, the life of a rope
is short. The larger the rope, the easier the bend should open.
Unless particularly advised, no bend is recommended for use
except with two ends of identical material. Bends in which one rope
is larger, stiffer or smoother than the other are not to be trusted
unless they have been selected to meet these particular conditions.
Bends for tying two ends of different characteristics may partake
somewhat of the nature of a hitch, since one rope is more active than
the other. In the chapter on hitches for lengthwise pull will be
found additional knots for bending small ropes to large ones, which
can be considered as either bends or hitches.
A wet rope is both stronger and more slippery than a dry one.
This is a point to be considered when tying hawsers and cable.
[ 257 ]
. *
r
<
« *
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
Bends in general should be regarded as temporary expedients.
Where something permanent is required, Shroud Knots and Long
and Short Splices are used. These are Multi-Strand Bends, which
are dealt with in separate chapters.
1402. The Reef or Square Knot is a true Binder Knot (Chapter
1 6 ), for which purpose it is admirable, but under no circumstances
should it be used as a bend. If tied with two ends of unequal
size, or if one end is stiff er or more slippery than the other, it is
bound to spill. Unfortunately it is about the most easily remembered
knot there is, and the uninitiated commonly employ it as a bend.
There have probably been more lives lost as a result of using a
Square Knot as a bend (to tie tivo ropes together) than from the
failure of any other half dozen knots combined . This was stated in
the first chapter and may be repeated again. In fact it is the ease with
which the knot may be spilled that gives it its value as a Reef Knot.
1403. The Sheet Knot is a means of knotting strips of sheeting
and blanketing if a quick exit from a second-story window is im-
perative. With Overhand Knots added in this way, the Reef Knot
becomes secure.
1404. Another bend from a Reef Knot. This method of half
hitching the ends has been used on Weaver’s Knots but is unneces-
sarily cumbersome.
1405. The Granny is another questionable knot that is often tied
as a bend. Its use is inexcusable but it is hardly so bad for the purpose
as the Reef Knot, for although it will
same tendency to capsize and spill.
1406. The Whatnot (i). There is little danger of anyone ever
tying this knot by mistake: the method is too unhandy. It really
belongs among the “trick knots” of Chapter 33 . With the ends ar-
ranged as shown, it is a more secure bend than many far more trust-
worthy knots.
1407. The Whatnot (2). With the ends twisted as given here, the
Whatnot is the most insecure bend there is. At all times it is quite
unpredictable.
1408. Here is another bend with the same untrustworthy features
as the “Whatnot,” yet in the form shown here it ranks among the
securest bends known.
1409. But in this second form it is one of the least secure knots
known, its only rival being the Whatnot. The change from one of
its forms to the other may occur accidentally or intentionally. So
the knot is quite untrustworthy.
1410. The Overhand Bend, also called Thumb Knot and (by
Bowling) Openhand Knot, ranks higher than the Sheet Bend in
security but is among the weakest of the bends. It is used in joining
the ends of rope yarns by which hams, bacon, and bananas are hung,
and it is also the knot tied by a mechanical binder.
1411. The Flemish Bend, also called Figure-Eight Bend, is often
given in knot monographs but is seldom used. It is bulky and bother-
slip, it does not have the
[258]
BENDS
some to tie, and not to be preferred to the following knot, which is
made in a similar manner.
1412. This bend is called the Ring Knot in Hutton’s Dictionary
of 1815. At an earlier date Izaak Walton calls it the Water Knot,
and Dr. Holden, in Streamcrajt (1919), follows the latter authority.
But as there are several other Water Knots the name Ring Knot
is perhaps preferable.
It is also known as the Gut Knot.
The Ring Knot is an excellent bend for wet gut. It may be tied
in the way illustrated here or a Single Overhand Knot may be put
in one of the two ends and then the other end “backed” for the
length of the first knot.
1413. The Barrel Knot, called Blood Knot by Keith Rollo, is
the best bend there is for small, stiff or slippery line. The ends may
be trimmed short and the knot offers the least resistance possible
when drawn through water. It is sometimes tied with additional
turns, which are unnecessary unless the material is piano wire. Some-
times it is tied with opposite twists, or with ends leading from op-
posite sides, none of which is an improvement. Before tying piano
wires, shellac and dry them. Even then the chances of success are
relatively small.
1414. Water Knot, also called Waterman’s, English, English-
man’s, Fisherman’s, True-Lover’s and Angler’s Knot. Hutton
(1815) calls it Water Knot. It is very strong and one of the com-
monest of bends employed by anglers, but it is needlessly bulky.
1415. Grapevine Knot, also called Double English Knot. This
is used by anglers in knotting horsehair and gut. If the latter is well
frayed the Double Knot does not bulk objectionably.
1416. This Double Figure-Eight Bend is of interest because both
faces present the same appearance, which is identical with one of the
faces of the Water Knot (#1414).
1417. This bend, based on the Timber Hitch, is strong and secure.
Moreover it may be tied successfully in galvanized iron and copper
wire.
1418. The Weaver’s Knot is the simplest way in which the Sheet
Bend may be tied in yarn and twine. It is employed for joining
threads that have parted in the loom, and it has been known and
used for this purpose the world over for as long as there is record.
It is not recommended for stiff material that is to be in constant use,
as it may spill on occasion. For ordinary purposes where a safe knot
is required, #1474, which does not spill, is preferable.
1419. A Weaver’s Knot that is closely related to the Reef Knot
was shown to me by Charles R. Gidley. Both ends tend to lie in the
same direction, which allows the knot to pass through the reeds
easily.
Weaver’s Knots are bends that are designed to be permanently
tied in small material. There are four pages of Weaver’s Knots near
the end of Chapter 2, and in the same chapter among Fisherman’s
Knots are a number of methods for attaching a line to a Leader
Loop which are closely akin to bends. Among the Becket Hitches
of Chapter 25 will be found others that serve a similar purpose.
1 259 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
142 0
14*4
1420. The Double Harness Bend is tied with two Crossing
Knots, one in each of the two ends, around the standing part of the
other end. The two knots draw together. It is strong and secure, but
the Single Harness Bend (#1474) is simpler to tie. Both of them
are exceedingly hard to untie, after they are once drawn up.
1421. The Double Harness Bend with parallel ends appears to be
preferable to the former. It is distinctive in appearance and the ends
may be cut short after the bend is tightened.
The bends that have so far been shown in this chapter are for use
in small stuff such as twine, cord and fishline. For that reason none
of them, except #1418, unties readily.
The bends to follow on this page and the next, although practical
enough for many purposes, are designed particularly for decorative
use.
1422. A decorative bend. If carefully drawn up this is one of the
most secure of all bends, but it is bulky and apt to snag. It may be
tied in flat material as well as round, and has the distinction of being
one of the most difficult bends there is to untie.
1423. The Japanese Bend may be used decoratively on girdles
and curtain holdbacks, but it tends to distort if subjected to any
considerable strain.
1424. Another decorative bend that is very secure and may be
used for the same purposes as the last. Both faces of this particular
knot are similar in appearance to one of the faces of the Sheet
Bend. (See #1431.)
1425. A knot that is equally decorative and suitable for the same
purposes as the last. Unless a bend, requiring as many crossings as
this one, possesses some particularly desirable feature beyond other
bends, it is of interest only if it is decorative. A practical bend, lack-
ing other outstanding qualities, must tie in a very simple manner.
1425 A. Hunter’s Bend (Also see facing page 261) consists of two
interlocked overhand knots, and is a comparatively new arrival on
the knotting scene. Its cruciform layout (ends at right angles), how-
ever, is where it differs from 1408, 1409, 1425 and the two-strand
Matthew Walker knot
The bend’s first appearance in print seems to have been in ‘Knots
for Mountaineering’ by Phil D. Smith, published in the U.S.A. in
the i9^os; but about the same time Dr. Edward Hunter, a British
physician, had discovered the same bend for himself.
By 1978, the bend was receiving publicity worldwide, linked to
the doctor’s name, but the first designation probably belongs to
Smith who labelled it ‘Rigger’s bend’.
Tested to breaking point by the Royal Aircraft Establishment
(Materials Department), in parachute cordage, it was found to be
. . not as strong as the blood knot, similar to the reverse figure of
eight and stronger than the fisherman’s bend, sheet bend or reef
knot”.
Dr. Hunter’s method of tying the bend is to hold both strands
together and parallel, throw a bight as shown (taking care to keep
the strands parallel without any accidental crossovers), then simply
tuck each working end through the bight from opposite sides as
indicated.
A new knot added 1979
[ 260 ]
BENDS
1426. Twofold Overhand Bend. In actual formation this is the
same as a Two-Strand Full Matthew Walker Knot but one of
the two ends leads reversely. It is decorative and symmetrical.
1427. The Double Twofold Overhand Bend in formation is the
same as a Two-Strand Four-Tuck Matthew Walker. (See Chap-
ter 7 , u Multi-Strand Lanyard Knots.”) A Double Overhand Knot
is tied in one end and a similar knot is tied reversely through the
first knot with the other end. In the true Matthew Walker Knot
the two Overhands are tied in the same direction.
1428. The Carrick Bend or Full Carrick Bend may be tied flat
for decorative purposes. If tied in needlework, so that all four ends
are to be employed, it is called the Josephine Knot. The drawing
illustrates the Carrick Bend with both ends on the same side of the
knot, which is less secure than the same knot formation with the
ends diagonally opposite each other.
1429. If the lower bight is extended, the Carrick Bend may be
platted a further length (as long as desired). This is often seen in
trumpet cords and in military braids. A knot is completed each time
the two ends are tucked down to the bottom. (See Knots #2254
and # 2255 .)
1430. Similarly the form of Four-Strand Square or Round Sinnet
may be adapted to form a decorative bend. The outer members are
moved alternately from either side, across the back, forward be-
tween the two opposing parts and down the front to a position
parallel to, and below, the other sister strand.
The bends that have been shown so far are tied in small material
such as twine, cord and fishline, where they are seldom untied.
Either these knots are permanent or the material is cut and thrown
away when they have served their purposes. When we come to rope,
a knot that may be untied is called for, as the material is valuable
and not to be squandered. I .
[ 2<Sl ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1431. The Sheet Bend is the common general utility bend aboard
ship. It was formerly tied in a sheet, which is a piece of running
rigging that trims a sail, and this accounts for the origin of the
name. It serves almost every purpose well, and unties readily with-
out damaging the rope. It is always tied in the manner that has been
described for the Bowline Knot (#1010), which is a Loop Knot
of similar formation. But instead of tying an end to its own bight,
one end is tied to a bight in another end.
The Sheet Bend bears a number of other titles including The
Bend, Simple Bend, Ordinary Bend, Common Bend, Single Bend.
It is also sometimes called, in error, Becket Bend. But a becket in
this case is an Eye Splice and the knot resulting is a hitch, which
at sea is called the Becket Hitch. The Sheet Bend should always be
tied with two ends of similar material, as otherwise it may spill,
unless it has been seized. Steel gives the name Sheet Bend in 1794.
1432. The Left-Hand Sheet Bend is often tied by landsmen and
✓ .
is not so reliable a knot as #1431. It will be noted in the diagram
that the pull on the bottom rope is the reverse of the Sheet Bend.
Consult the table on page 273 to gain an idea of what degree of
security this knot possesses.
1433. When tying the Sheet Bend in large or stiff material, turn
up one end as pictured and hold the loop that has been formed with
one hand and reeve the other end as indicated by the arrow.
1434. The Double Sheet Bend is mentioned by Luce in 1862. If
the material is very stiff and large, seize an eye in one end and reeve
the working end two turns instead of one. The Double Bend is no
stronger but it is more secure.
1435. The Double Sheet Bend is sometimes tied by another
method. It may be more quickly made in this way, since it has one
less tuck.
1436. The Sheet Bend may have the end tucked as illustrated.
This is recommended either for towing or for a rope that is to be
dragged along the ground.
1437. A Slipped Sheet Bend may be instantly spilled, by pulling
on the end and withdrawing the bight. This is often handy when
launching and rigging. It is also used on circus tent gear.
1438. This illustrates the Double Weaver’s Knot that was shown
to me by Eugene S. Harrington and which is identical in structure
with Tucked Sheet Bend $1436, but the pull on the upper end is
reversed.
1439. The Carrick Bend, also called Full Carrick Bend, Sailor’s
Knot, and Anchor Bend, is perhaps the nearest thing we have to a
perfect bend. It is symmetrical, it is easy to tie, it does not slip easily
in wet material, it is among the strongest of knots, it cannot jam and
is readily untied. To offset this array of excellencies is the sole objec-
tion that it is somewhat bulky. It is the bend commonly tied in
hawsers and cables.
[ 262 ]
BENDS
When we come to consider hawsers and cables we are confronted
with a new factor. The material is heavy and inflexible and the bend
must take its form correctly and inevitably while under strain, as
it cannot be worked into shape by hand alone. It also must untie
easily, as the force that a man can bring to bear is relatively small and
a marlingspike is apt to break the fiber of a wet rope.
The Carrick Bend, when under stress, pulls up into easy loops,
which may be readily opened with a few light taps from a belaying
pin, fid, or other implement. It may be watersoaked indefinitely,
and even then it will not jam.
Sometimes the Carrick Bend is illustrated with the ends both on
one side (#1428) instead of diagonally opposite, but this is not so
secure. At sea it is tied as shown here.
Lescallier gives the knot by name in 1783.
1440. The Single Carrick Bend (Sheet Bend #1431). Almost
every knot that can be conformed to the Carrick Bend diagram, and
that has a different over-and -under from the regular Carrick Bend,
has at one time or another been termed the Single Carrick Bend. Not
one of these, however, has the desirable features of the True Carrick
Bend (#1439). (See table, page 273.) Riesenberg’s Standard Seamanship
gives the Carrick Bend correctly.
1441. A Reef Knot (#1402). As these so-called Single Carrick
Bends are always seized, their true character is generally obscured.
Several nautical authorities have even given the Reef Knot labeled
Carrick Bend.
1442. Du Clairbois has gone so far as to give the Granny Knot.
With such a bend there is little between the sailor and eternity save
the seizings. But the three that have just been shown and commented
on are superior to what is to follow.
1443. This Single Carrick Bend, as shown by Brady, Luce,
Alston, and others, slipped and spilled in mohair yarn with an
average of 4.5 jerks. It is among the poorest of all the bends tested.
(See page 273.)
1444. Another Single Carrick Bend, that is frequently published,
slipped with an average of 4.6 jerks, very slightly better than % 1443.
1445. But here is the worst Single Carrick Bend, shown by
Knight, Nares, Todd and Whall, Henderson, etc. It slipped with an
average of 2.6 jerks. Only one of all the other knots tested was worse
than this. Yet it is recommended for towing and is said not to jam.
Of course it was always seized.
All the so-called Single Carrick Bends without seizings proved
to be worthless, or worse. The fact that they ever appeared in print
in the first place may be due to a blind faith in the Carrick Bend
diagram, and the fact that they have survived must be due to the
fact that anything at all, even the Whatnot, will hold if well seized.
But the danger is always imminent that some poor unfortunate may
tie one without adding seizings.
[263]
4r *S»
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1446. Hawser Bends are always seized and frequently are parceled
to save wear. Two round seizings are sufficient for the Full Carrick
Bend.
1447. The Spanish Hawser Bend is made secure with two throat
seizings and two round seizings. It is an old method in good
standing.
1448. The Open Carrick Bend will not jam and is strong and
easily tied. But it is a clumsy affair. In bending cables, always leave
long ends.
1449. Diderot’s Single Carrick Bend is really the Sheet Bend.
It is finished off with Two Half Hitches and if well seized should
prove amply secure. The sketch here is copied from his Encyclo-
pedia of 1762.
1450. (4/10/29.) There are no other well-known and easily untied
bends suitable for large material. The present original bend is com-
pact, has an excellent lead, and is not difficult to untie. By raising the
upper loop the knot is easily loosened.
1451. (3/16/37.) This has less initial slip than the Carrick Bend,
opens almost as easily, is possibly not so strong, but would seem
to be about as secure.
1452. (2/3/34.) Another original bend that is as easily untied as
#1451. It appears to be strong, secure and compact. As it stands,
the method of tying is more complicated than could be wished but
this can probably be remedied.
1453. (5/27/24.) This bend appears to be the most easily untied
of all.
1454. Two Bends is a good method of securing two light hawsers
together, but the two legs require careful adjustment so that they
will have an equal pull. If it is to be used for towing, the ends should
be seized.
1455. Two Bowlines, or the Bowline Bend, given by Dana
(1841), is more quickly tied than the preceding and is about the
most common of all Hawser Bends.
1456. Lever, in 1808, says, “Hawsers are sometimes bent together
thus. The hawser has a half hitch cast in it, a throat seizing clapped
on the standing part and a round one at the end. Another hawser is
[ 264 ]
BENDS
rove through the bight of this, hitched in the same manner and
seized to the standing part.” Most of the “ Seamanships ” still con-
tinue to copy this description verbatim.
1457. Roding (Hamburg, 1798) gives a bend similar to the last
except that round turns are taken by each hawser through the other.
1458. The Temporary Bend given by Steel in 1794 consists of
three throat seizings and two round seizings (for seizings see Chapter
40). The seizings bear the whole burden and if they fret away, the
bend will part. When in use, seizings should be examined frequently.
1459. The Reeving-Line Bend, which is pictured by Roding in
1795, is so named because it passes easily through hawse pipes and
fair-leaders. The Two Half Hitches relieve the load on the seizings.
Admiral Alston ( Seamanship , London, i860) says this “is about the
best.” Mechanically the knot is the exact duplicate of the Whatnot
(#1406) and the Grass Knot (#1490).
1460. Esparteiro, in his Dicionario de Marinharia (Lisboa, 1936),
gives the same bend as the last but with two additional hitches.
1461. Double and Triple Sheet Bends are often employed when
shifting hawsers and cables, in getting them through hawse pipes,
and in passing them to shore. The knot will be more secure if the
loop in the end of the hawser is seized in, or better still, eye spliced.
Its purpose is to secure a small rope to a much larger one.
1462. The Racking Bend does not require seizing as each turn of
racking is hove on as it is laid, and the hawser parts draw snugly
together. The end may be half hitched or stopped.
1463. The Heaving-Line Bend, given by Ohrvall, is used to attach
a heaving line to the eye of a hawser.
1464. A Single Stopper is passed as illustrated. Two turns are
taken, the standing part is passed and the tail dogged with the lay
of the larger rope, which may be either hawser, cable or standing
rigging. In this way a tail block is secured to a shroud or stay.
1465. The Rolling Hitch was formerly called Magnus Hitch
and Magner’s Hitch. If the latter is correct, Mr. Magner is the
only rival that Matthew Walker has. Of the latter, it has been said
that he is “the only man to have a knot named for him.” The
Rolling Hitch is the best-known knot for bending a small rope to
a larger taut one, and it is one of the most frequently used knots on
shipboard.
1
< 4 - 5-6
1458
< 45*8
I «f
[ 265 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1466. If the Rolling Hitch is tied to an inert end and the final
hitch, which terminates the knot, is taken reversely, there will be
less tendency to twist than in #1465.
1467. (3/1/34.) The bend pictured here appears to be particularly
secure for bending a very small line to a much larger one. This series
of knots (#1464-71) could as well be considered hitches as bends,
since only the smaller rope is active. But as they serve the purpose
of uniting two ropes, they also belong here.
1468. A Slack-Line Bend to a larger line. Draw up carefully and
pull both ends of the small line strongly in order to “set” the knot.
Watch the knot and add weight gradually.
1469. For the same purpose as the last, this knot appears to serve
equally well.
1470. (4/7/30.) For two ropes of the same material but tied with
one end only. When this end is pulled carefully the other end is
gripped.
1471. (2/5/39.) A Jamming Bend is tied with one line to the
bight, or end, of another of the same size. Both ends of the active
line are pulled, which engages the other end, and the bend is formed
in the parts of both.
1472. An Adjustable Bend is formed by tying a Rolling Hitch
in each end around the standing part of the other. The knots may be
easily slid, even when the rope is under tension, and will hold when
the hand is removed. Excellent for guy ropes of any sort where
adjustment is required, and for lashing a load that may require tight-
ening after it has shaken down.
1473. A Short End Bend was shown to me by Mrs. Thomas
Knowles, who used it constantly in her knitting. I have often used
it as a temporary expedient when a shoe lacing has parted. Any
end that is long enough to drop a loop over may be bent to, if suffi-
cient care is exercised. Form a Noose or a Marlingspike Hitch as
illustrated. Place the Noose around the short end, in the direction
shown, or else substitute an end of rope for the marlingspike and
pull both the end and standing part of the Noose as illustrated;
the short end will be “swallowed” and a Sheet Bend formed. The
method is quite practical and requires half the material needed for
other methods. So little length is required for the tying that the
knot may be tied successfully as a “trick.” (See Chapter 33.)
[ 266
BENDS
1474. The Drawing Bend, Harness Bend or Parcel Bend is about
the most practical bend for twine. There is no danger of capsizing as
there is with the Weaver’s Knot, and it is very secure. It has an
added feature which makes it invaluable in parcel tying: it may be
tied tightly while under tension. To tie: Form a Crossing Knot
with one end around the other end. Hold this knot with the left
hand and pull the upper end until taut. When taut enough, hold
with the left hand and half hitch the upper end snugly around the
upper standing part.
1475. The Becket Hitch makes an effective Drawing Bend. Put
a Bowline Knot in a rope’s end. Reeve the other end through it,
draw taut and hitch as shown by the arrow.
1476. A Bowline and Two Half Hitches. This one is easier to
draw taut and hold under stress and is the most common of Draw-
ing Bends. Commonly used in parcel tying and lashing wagon
loads.
1477. The Marline Hitch and Half Hitch is also a good Draw-
ing Bend. If tied as illustrated it is secure, but with the final Half
Hitch reversed it is not so wholly dependable. Diderot (1762) gives
it as a Weaver’s Knot.
1478. A Turk’s-Head Bend may be used in forming a handle for
an umbrella, cane, sea chest, etc. Reeve the rope through the cleat
and strongly seize at the desired size of the ring. Tie a 3L X 4B
Turk’s-Head (#1305) with the end that leads to the right and
double it. Then enter the heretofore inactive end, and with it triple
the knot.
1479 . A 4L X 3B Turk’s-Head Knot may be made on the diagram
given. Starting at the feather end, form the knot by tucking under-
neath an opposing strand, when passing an encircled point, for the
second time. Reeve the end through the center compartment when
it has been reached. Draw up the knot loosely into shape before
doubling it, and in doubling it avoid doubling the loop which passes
through the hole.
Another way to arrive at a similar result is to first tie the Whistle
or Knife Lanyard Knot (#787). Then reeve one of the ends of the
knot through the hole in the cane or cleat. Cut the loop at the other
end of the knot and lead the working end into the loop end parallel
with the correct loop part, withdrawing the loop part at each tuck.
When the working end has been substituted for the original half,
draw up the knot.
[ 267 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1480. The Rope Yarn Knot is used when serving standing rigging.
It bulks three times the size of the rope yarn, while a Reef Knot
bulks four times the size. To tie, split each rope yam into two equal
parts and tease all parts to a point, then crotch or marry the two
ends. Cross two opposing parts and tie a Half Knot in them on the
opposite side of the structure. Sometimes the knot is tied contrary
to the lay of the rope yarn. Either way will serve, but the former
makes a smoother knot. Rope yarn generally has a right lay.
The ends are buried underneath the service as it progresses and
the knot is hardly evident. This is neither strong enough nor secure
enough to be used as a general-purpose bend.
1481. Sometimes the knot is pictured with an extra turn. This
might prove to be a little stronger, but it also may not be quite so
secure.
I4S1
1482. A Marline Bend. Marline has a left lay generally, being
composed of two right-laid yarns. It may be tied with any of the
Rope Yarn Knots. The underlying Half Knot shown here is
optional.
1483. A Rope Yarn Bend in three-strand small stuff is sometimes
pictured, but generally in serving with small stuff a Short Splice
tucked either once or else once and a half is used.
1484. A Yarn Splice was shown to me by S. R. Ashley, who
employs it in her knitting. The yam is teased, split, and married,
then is twisted with the lay and knitted in, while holding the twist
intact with the fingers. Worked in this way, the knot or splice
cannot be detected. As the splice is made at the exact point where
the yarn is about to enter the fabric, the knitting presents no manual
difficulties.
1485. The Tucked Bend is now very generally used when serving
with either marline or small stuff, having to a large extent superseded
the Rope Yarn Knot and the Marline Bend. Each end is tucked
twice through the other end.
1486. Reeving-Off Bend, also called marrying a rope . When
reeving off new running rigging, butt the ends of the new and old
ropes together. Worm three short pieces of marline into the cunt-
lines, bridging the joint. Seize the wormings twice in each end. Then
tuck the three ends “as they lie”; that is to say, tuck under , not
over and under .
1487. Nowadays this may be more quickly but less safely done
with “electric tape.” Butt the ends as before and lay a number of
lengthwise strips of rubber tape across the joint until it is covered.
Then bind or serve helically with tape. Cover completely with
tallow or talc powder; otherwise the tape may pull off in passing
through the block. The best method is to serve with marline over
several lengthwise strips of tape.
[ 268
BENDS
1488. To bend to a telephone or other wire. This will hold better
if the wire is first shellacked. Take a short flexible cord or small rope
that is slightly larger than the wire and, using this as a bridle, secure
both ends to the wire with Rolling Hitches, then bend the hauling
rope to the slack of the bridle between the hitches. The wire may
be taped, but sometimes sticky tape will crawl.
1489. The Strap Knot is the common method of repairing a
broken strap in- harness. In form this is similar to the Becket Hitch.
Although more used on the farm than at sea, I have seen the lanyard
of a binocular case repaired with it.
1490. The Grass Bend provides the best method of joining any
flat, semiflexible material, such as straps, chair cane, thongs, grass,
and straw. It has an excellent lead and is quite secure. Although in
formation it is the same as the Whatnot #1406 and #1407), when the
ends have been arranged as shown, due to the flatness of the material they
cannot shift into an insecure position.
1491. Strap Knot. A bend that cannot untie may be formed by
cutting a slit in each strap end and reeving as illustrated in the right-
hand diagram. One of the ends may be fast to another object.
1492. A Strap Bend of another sort. The circular piece of rope
which passes around a block and provides the eye from which it
is suspended is called a strap. Also a rope wreath, or a single rope
with an eye in one or both ends, which is to be made fast in the rig-
ging and to which a tackle is hooked, is termed a strap.
When the two ends of a cargo sling or a strap are to be bent
together, reeve one doubled end through the other in the way a
Becket Hitch is tied.
1493. A bend for rubber bands. Two or more slings or straps may
be bent together as illustrated. In formation this is the same knot
depicted as #1491. It is the best way to bend elastic bands together.
Drop the end of one band over the end of the other. Then reeve the
outer one through the other.
1494. A Sung or Strap Toggle. If a third end is not available for
tying #1493, or if it is desired to cast off quickly, arrange the ends
as pictured and insert a toggle. Hold the toggle secure until the load
has been added.
1495. Eye to Eye. This may be tied with a somewhat different
technique than is given for #1491. Reeve the upper end of the lower
strap through the eye of the upper strap. Then reeve the lower eye
of tne lower strap through its ovm upper eye. This forms a Sling
Hitch in one of the eyes which, with a little assistance, will capsize
into a Strap Bend.
1496. Two clinches may be used to form a Hawser or Cable
Bend. The illustration shows two Outside Clinches. The turns
should be as small as possible. The Inside Clinch is more secure than
the Outside Clinch but is not so easily cast off.
[ 269 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1497. Multiple Bends of more than two ends are occasionally
called for on nets, tents, awnings, hammock clews, etc. The common
Sheet Bend will provide either three or four ends and the pull may
be either two against two or one against three.
1498. A Multiple Racking Bend can be formed by seizing a
number of small lines together at the center and bending a larger
line to them with racking turns.
1499. The Bowline may be tied with a bight so that, when the
bight is cut, five ends are available.
1500. If bights are to be bent together to furnish a number of
ends, the knot pictured here will be found firmer than similar Knot
#1492.
1501. A Multiple Sheet Bend. If a considerable number of
straddled lines are needed, it is well to serve or ringbolt hitch them
at the center and then to seize in an eye before bending to it with a
Multiple Sheet Bend.
1502. The Josephine Knot. When used in decorative needlework
with four working ends, the Carrick Bend bears this name. A loop
is made in the center of one thread and the end of the other thread
is sewed through the first one with a needle.
1503. A Multiple Figure-Eight Knot appears to be a practical
and compact means for bending several ends together.
1504. For hammock clews a number of small lines are often
secured to a metal ring with a series of Ring Hitches.
1505. If lines are to be pulled not too widely apart the Diamond
Knot, elsewhere described as #693, will be found quite practical.
1506. Snap hooks to clews and metal rings are often employed at
sea.
1507. The device pictured here is given in Diderot’s Encyclopedia.
It is the hoist rope of a pile driver which was worked wholly by
man power. An individual line is provided for each man.
At sea, Bowline Bridles are similarly constructed, having three
or four legs.
1508. An expeditious way of bending several lines at a common
point is to first form a Multiple Portuguese Bowline in one rope’s
end, and then secure the others to the bights of this with ordinary
Bowline Knots.
1509. Several ends interlocked with either Bowline Knots or Eye
Splices may be rove together as pictured and will be as secure
as it is possible for rope to be.
1510. Crow’s-Feet. The edges of awnings on shipboard were
stretched with euphroe blocks and so also were catharpins. The web
so formed was termed a Crow’s-Foot. The standing ends of running
rigging in the seventeenth century were secured in similar manner
to the top ends of fore and aft stays.
1511. A multiplicity of small lines are sometimes toggled or Added
to a spliced eye in a larger rope.
[ 270 ]
BENDS
1512. The Figure-Eight Lashing was used in bending the two
ends of a messenger together. A lanyard was spliced to one of the
eyes, the two eyes were lashed together “figure-eight”-fashion and
the end secured with Half Hitches.
1513. The Wedding Knot was a somewhat similar method of
lashing two eyes together. Both ends of the lashing were passed in
round turns through the two eyes. When sufficient lashing turns
had been taken the two ends were crossed in the center of the lash-
ing and frapping turns taken, the ground turns were led away from
the center, and the riding turns back to the center where the ends
were reef knotted. The two halves of a rope jackstay were bent to-
gether by this method.
A Rigging Stopper (#3302) is closely related to the bends. It
serves to repair a break in a stay or shroud.
1514. A Loop Lashing also partakes somewhat of the nature of
a bend. This is used about deck, and ashore it is used on wagon-load
lashings. A Bowline Knot (# 1010 ) is put in one rope’s end and a
single loop in the bight is added to the standing part of the other
rope. Either a Harness Loop (# 1050 ) or a Single Bowline on the
bight (# 1058 ) may be used. Teamsters generally employ Loop Knot
# 1046 , which is weak but secure. The working end is rove through
the Bowline in the other end, then led back through the Bight
Loop. One or several turns are made through the two loops, and
these are tightened at every turn. The end is finally made fast with
Half Hitches near the loop last rove through.
1515. This illustrates a rope with selvagee tails stopped to a chain.
The end of the rope is opened and divided into two equal groups
of yarn. These are marline hitched to form two tails. Formerly this
was used on the end of chain gammoning.
1516. Rope stopped to chain. The rope is half hitched around the
third link, the standing part is seized to the first link and the end
is seized to the fifth.
1517. Three selvagee tails are made fast to a chain. Each strand
is opened up into its separate yams and then the three strands are
marled down separately to make three equal tails. These are hitched
to the chain and then are platted to the end and stopped, the chain
having first been parceled.
1518. A Fisherman’s Bend made fast to a chain cable. The
Yankee bank fisherman’s cable is half chain, half rope. The chain
is for the stony bottom and the rope for its easier riding qualities.
The end link is parceled, and the bend is seized.
1519. The Shiver and Eye provides a handy method of quick
bending and unbending. One rope’s end is rove through an old shiv
and a Stopper Knot holds it in place. It is buttoned into an Eye
Splice in the other rope’s end.
1520. A Spritsail Sheet Knot (# 887 ) was tied in the ends of a
messenger strap. The strap being rove through the eyes of the messen-
ger, the ends were buttoned together.
[ 271 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1521. Toggle and eye or two eyes toggled . A toggle is easily freed
even when under strain, which is sometimes a great advantage. It
is used to support a heavy weight that is designed to be dropped
rather than lowered, such as a mooring or anchor.
1522. In heavy lifting a Sheet Bend is often toggled. Adjusted
in this way, it never jams and is less liable to spill.
1523. The Double Sheet Bend can be toggled in this fashion and
instantly spills when the toggle is removed. All toggles must be held
in place until the load has been added.
1524. Two eyes may be toggled together in much the same way
and will spill at once when the toggle is withdrawn.
1525. The common buckle and strap serves the purpose of a bend
although it is of a mechanical nature.
1526. A less common buckle bears a stud instead of a tongue.
1527. A buckle that consists of two rings. This is an old form that
has been revived in recent years.
1528. The Cinch or Cincha Knot, which started out in life either
in Mexico or in South America. It is now universally used on pack
saddles and on most riding saddles except the English type.
1529. The Shiver Hitch is made of an old block shiv and a
Matthew Walker Knot. It was formerly used in the merchant
service to hold on to the cable at a time when a tackle was used for
heaving. A Single Hitch was taken around the cable and the shiv
jammed when hauled taut.
1530. The Double Shiver Hitch may be used for the same pur-
pose and also for hauling unfinished spars about in a spar yard. It
would be excellent for hauling circus poles around the lot.
1531. A chain and ring are used in the rigging loft when putting
wire rigging on the stretch. The method is also used on the rigger’s
bench when tightening wire rope strands.
1532. The Hook and Eye is one of the simplest means by which
rope may be lengthened and shortened, and if the hook is moused it
cannot spill.
1533. BulPs-eyes are among the earliest surviving bits of appa-
ratus that are still used on shipboard. They are to be found on
Egyptian models from the Pyramids. In our Merchant Marine they
are used to secure the ends or fore and aft stays. One end of the stay
is seized into the groove around a bull’s-eye. The other end is rove
through the bull’s-eye. After the stay has been set up with tackles
the second end is made fast with round seizings.
1534. A single shell has two grooves but no holes.
1535. A double shell has two holes. Nowadays it is made of pot-
tery (“stoneware”) or glass, and is to be seen on telephone-pole guy
ropes, where it provides electrical insulation as well as a means
of tightening.
1536. Large hemp cables usually had a thimble eye in either end,
and when it was necessary to lengthen the cable, two eyes were
shackled together, or one was shackled to a chain cable. Often the
eye was put in when the cable was made. Swivels were often added.
1537. An S hook provides the simplest method of coupling two
pieces of chain. The hook is put through the two links and closed
with a hammer.
1538. The most secure way to bend two wires together is with
two loops. The ground turns in the wire should be close together
and riding turns should be added.
1539. This is a coupling from an Eskimo seal harpoon line, made
[ 27 2 ]
BENDS
of reindeer marrowbone. One end of sinew rope is rove through a
hole across the knucklebone. The other end has a loop which is thrust
into the end of the bone and buttoned to a carved stud inside the base
of the coupling. The drawing was taken from the Smithsonian Mu-
seum Report of 1 900 .
1540. There are many different ways of lacing a belt drive. The
way given here is characteristic and simple. The left illustration
represents the grain side of the leather, which comes in contact with
the drive wheel. With the skived side uppermost, lace up through 1,
down through 2 , etc. The two ends are left out at 1 and 16 respec-
tively and are cut off “long.”
1541. A direct way of joining two wire ends. The ends are led
past each other and each end is twisted in two layers (with both
ground and riding turns) around the standing part of the other end.
Three or four ground turns are led away from the center, then the
riding turns are led back toward the center. The two ends should
be twisted in opposite ways so that they cannot “corkscrew” and
come apart.
1542. The skater's chain grip illustrates how two hands should be
bent together in rescuing someone who has fallen through the ice.
Fingernails should first be close-pared.
1543. The Police-Line Knot is recommended for holding back a
crowd or for use when kissing the Blarney Stone.
The following table gives the results obtained in the security tests that
were described on page 16 . The knots are listed in the order of their
security, the most insecure being mentioned first. The left column gives
the average number of jerks necessary to make a knot of each kind spill.
1.0 Whatnot (#1407)
2.6 Single Carrick Bend A (#1445)
3. Granny Knot (#1442)
4.5 Single Carrick Bend B (#1443)
4.6 Single Carrick Bend C (#1444)
12.2 Thief Knot (#1207)
14.6 Left-Hand Sheet Bend (# 1432)
19. Reef Knot (#1441)
19.6 Carrick Bend, both ends on same side of knot (#1428)
22.3 Sheet Bend (#1431 )
22.8 Overhand Bend in left-twisted yarn (#1558)
25.8 Whatnot, jammed (#1406)
30.9 Harness Bend, single (#1474)
33.1 Overhand Bend, left-handed in left-twist yarn (#1557)
36.2 Double Sheet Bend (#1434)
42.9 Englishman’s or Waterman's Knot (#1414)
70.8 Carrick Bend, with diagonal pull (#1439)
100. Rtng Knot (#1412) Slight slip but did not spill.
100. Barrel Knot (#1413) No slip.
100. (2/3/34) (#1452) No slip.
Some readers may be surprised to find the Sheet Bend with so low a
rating, but these tests were made in exceptionally slippery material. The
Sheet Bend is the most practical of bends and quite secure enough for
ordinary purposes. The Single Carrick Bends (#1443, #1444, #1445)
are among the least secure of all bends, and depend almost entirely on
their seizings for whatever security they possess.
1544. A swivel may be added to a rope by utilizing two small
boards nailed together at right angles. Three holes are to be bored
and a Matthew Walker Knot with a collar and a leather washer is
needed. The swivel is improved if three rim holes are bored. A
Bowline is made through two of the holes and the end is led to the
third hole and knotted.
L 273 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1545. Many bends in common use may be tied on the Carrick
Bend diagram. By using a larger diagram of similar characteristics
it seemed probable that other bends could be projected.
1546. A bend diagram one part longer than the Carrick diagram
is impossible, as it consists of more than two lines, and so cannot be
tied in two ends.
1547. The Chinese Knot diagram not only was productive of
more elaborate knots, such as the Harness Bend (#1474) and the
Englishman’s Knot (#1414), but also could be used to depict all
the knots of the smaller Carrick diagram. The Reef Knot is illus-
trated here tied in the larger diagram. See also Knots #1553 and
# ! 554-
1548. A one-bight-by-four-bight diagram was not very productive
although the Double Harness Bend (# 1420) can be tied on it. The
knot depicted here was one of its results; although symmetrical and
secure, it is unwieldy.
The following knots are projected on the Carrick Bend diagram:
1549. The Reef Knot.
1550. The Sheet Bend.
1551. The Carrick Bend.
1552. The Granny.
The following knots are projected on the Chinese Knot diagram:
1553. The Double Harness Bend.
1554. The Englishman’s Knot.
1555. A diagram the next size larger than the Chinese Knot con-
tains all the knots of both the Carrick Bend and the Chinese Knot
diagrams, as well as an assortment of still more elaborate knot*.
Shown here is the Double Weaver’s Knot (#1438).
1556. If the pull is on diagonally opposite ends this diagram will
give the Overhand Bend, but if the pull is on two ends of the same
side it will give the Ring Knot.
1557. The Overhand Bend is shown tied left-handed, in left-laid
yarn.
1558. The Overhand Bend, tied right-handed, in left-laid yarn
The left-hand knot is almost fifty per cent more secure. If right-
handed yarns were used the right-handed knot would be equally
secure.
1559. The Check or Delay Knot is employed semidecoratively
on passenger ships to block off alleyways, companionways and
doorways from inquisitive passengers, when painting or other busi-
ness is in order. It is also tied in idle manropes when they are left
hanging at the sides.
r 2 74 ]
CHAPTER 19: SHROUD KNOTS (MULTI-
STRAND BENDS)
Come , thou mortal wretch,
With thy sharp teeth this knot hitrinsicate . . .
William Shakespeare: Antony and Cleopatra
The Shroud Knot was formerly used for emergency repair when
hemp rigging was injured in action. It is more quickly tied than a
splice and uses less material. But since wire standing rigging has
superseded hemp, it is seldom required. It may be used decoratiyely,
however, on lanyards, umbrella, chest and knitting-bag handles, and
on curtain holdbacks.
The Shroud Knot proper is tied in shroud-laid rope, which is four-
stranded with a core. If tied in sinnet, it may have any number of
strands.
1560 . About the neatest way of finishing off Shroud Knots is to
cut out one half of the underside of each strand close to the knot
and then taper and back the remainder of each strand as described
for the Sailmaker’s Short Splice (#2652).
1561 . The more common way of finishing off the knots is to
scrape and taper the strands, worm them with material from the
underneath side, tease out and fay (see Glossary) the remainder, and
then serve over the whole. Sometimes half of each strand is cut out
before worming.
1562 . Cross grafting makes a strong and handsome finish. Divide
the yarns of each strand into four parts, cut out the lower quarter,
worm the second quarter, use the third quarter in faying (see Fay, To:
in Glossary) and reserve the outside quarter for cross grafting (#2678;
see also #1294 and #3563). The length of the knot should be about
four times the diameter of the rope. Both ends should be covered with
a snaked whipping. (See #3453.)
1563 . A grafted Shroud Knot is prepared in the same way as the
last. The individual yarns should be tapered slightly. (See #2678.)
1564 . Provided they have been snugly worked, most of the more
elaborate knots given in this chapter are sufficiently secure to allow
trimming the strands close to the knots.
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1565. The name Shroud Knot appears in Steel’s Semianship
(1794). Lever speaks of the French Shroud Knot in 1808. To tie
the “Common,” “Double” or “English” Shroud Knot, seize and
open two rope ends, marry them and hold the structure vertically
while walling the upstanding set of ends to the right. There are now
two ways of describing the same thing. Either continue to hold the
rope as before and crown the lower (downhanging ends) to the left ,
or else turn the structure, end for end, and wall the upper ends to
the right as directed before. One knot is the reverse of the other.
Draw all snug, scrape and worm a part of each strand, and scrape,
taper and fay (see Glossary) the remainder. Serve over snugly for the
length of the taper.
In tying these knots it will be well to put an Uverhand knot in
each strand of one set of ends for purposes of identification.
1566. The English Shroud Knot is frequently tied with two
identical Stopper Knots (#676) which makes a fuller knot.
1567. Less commonly it is tied with two Reversed Stopper Knots,
one left and one right.
If the reader wishes, any or all of the Multi-Strand Stopper,
Lanyard and Button Knots given in Chapters 6, 7, 9 and 10 may be
adapted to form Shroud Knots. There are several hundred of these
knots for the reader to experiment with. But in the majority of cases
the resultant knot will prove to be a clumsy affair, lacking the essen-
tial smartness that is characteristic of sailor’s knots.
There are two stereotype descriptions of the French Shroud
Knot, one or the other of which appears in about every book on
seamanship. Lever ( 1 808 ) is responsible for one of these and Alston
appears to be the author of the other. Neither of the two descrip-
tions is quite complete, and a knot cannot be finished from either
set of directions merely by following the directions literally. No one
appears to have suspected that the two descriptions relate to two
totally different knots and sometimes the attempt has been made to
combine the two. I have seen only one description of a French
Shroud Knot from which a knot can be successfully tied. Dr. Day,
in his Sailor's Knots, gives a clear description of Knot # 1 568.
1568. The French or Single Shroud Knot (i) was first shown
to me by Captain Albert Whitney, and is perhaps the one Lever
intended to describe. Cut off the hearts, butt them and marry two
four-strand ropes, turn down the upstanding ends and arrange them
vertically, forming bights at the top and laying each one parallel to
and in contact with its own standing part (shown as right diagram
#1567). Take one of the original doumhanging ends , hitherto inert,
pass it to the right, past the first bight and up through the second
bight. Repeat with the other strands of the same set. This knot was
correctly pictured by Luce and Ward in 1884 but was incorrectly
described.
1569. The French or Single Shroud Knot (2). Lever directs
tying as follows: “Single wall the ends round the bights of the other
three and their own standing parts.” This leaves the knot incom-
plete. But if we pass the first bight and stick each end up through
[ 276 ]
SHROUD KNOTS (MULTI- STRAND BENDS)
the second bight to the right, the result is a practical and sym-
metrical knot.
1570 . Alston’s (i860) description of the French or Single Shroud
Knot (3). “Crown backwards, lefthanded, the strands of each end;
then dip the ends that lie from you to the left of those that fall down
towards you: haul them into their places . . He then directs:
. . tuck the ends as in splicing, or tease the strands out and marl
down.” But the strands are not in position for doing either.
If, after having followed Alston’s directions literally, up to the
point where he mentions tucking “as in splicing,” the ends are
tucked instead as shown here, a satisfactory knot results which may
well be the knot Alston had in mind. This knot under tension will
distort somewhat. I have never seen any of the foregoing “French
Shroud Knots” tied by a sailor except #1568.
1571 . The French Shroud Knot (4), that I have always seen tied
by sailors, I first learned from Captain Charles W. Smith on board
the Sunbeam in 1 904, and I have seen many other sailors tie it. Olsen,
in Fisherman's Seamanship (Grimsby, 1885), describes it correctly
but uses for illustration Alston’s drawing for a quite different knot.
The four foregoing knots (#1568-71) include all the French
Shroud Knots either published or unpublished that I have been able
to trace.
1572 . To double Shroud Knot #1571: Tie the knot and then tuck
each end directly through the next bight to the right, which doubles
or enlarges the knot. Superficially it will now closely resemble Five-
Strand Flat Sinnet #2967, tied horizontally around the rope, and
if each strand is tucked through an additional bight the surface will
resemble Seven-Strand Flat or English Sinnet, also tied horizon-
tally.
1573 . A firm knot, superficially resembling some of the French
Shroud Knots already given, is crowned to the right (upper ends
only). Then the lower strands are tucked up to the left, over one and
under one to the top center.
1574 . A wider knot than has been given, which superficially re-
sembles Four-Strand Flat Sinnet or a Four-Lead Turk’s-Head, is
tied as follows: Without changing the grip on the structure, crown
the upper strands to the right and wall the lower strands to the left.
Then tuck the ends as shown, first the lower ends upward, then the
upper ends, which are not tucked immediately down under the bight
below, but are tucked under the next bight to the right , as shown in
the right diagram.
The tools required for these knots are pricker, scissors and loop
buttoner. For practicing the knots double two pieces of banding and
lay up into about five inches of Four-Strand Square Sinnet $2999.
Seize and leave the ends about two feet long. Two of these sinnets
are required for one Shroud Knot. Boil or soak one of the two sin-
nets in tea or coffee and the other in plain water for the same length
of time. When dry, they will be of different color but of the same
texture.
[ 277 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1575 . A Shroud Knot superficially resembling the Double Wall
Knot is built up from an English Shroud Knot base. First tie Knot
#1565. Withdraw each lower strand in turn and stick it, as indicated
by the arrow, under two parallel bights. This knot is less apt to dis-
tort than # 1 570, which it resembles in appearance.
1576 . A Shroud Knot superficially resembling the Stopper Knot
is also based on the English Shroud Knot. Each lower strand is car-
ried beyond one upper end to the left, before sticking down under
the same part from which it was earlier removed, passing under three
parts in all.
1577 . A Double Shroud Knot. Bushell (1854) recommends that
“strands be tucked without doubling,” which indicates that a
Double Shroud Knot of some sort was used in his period. This is
not to be confused with the English Shroud Knot (#1565), for
that consists of two separate knots, instead of a single knot that is
doubled. First tie #1571. Then pass each lower end to the right,
parallel with and under the next adjacent lower bight, then up under
two upper bights. At this point there will be two ends issuing from
under each upper bight. Lead the lower one of each of these pairs
downward, following the established lead, and tuck out at the stem
under two parallel bights.
1578 . Another Double French Shroud Knot is based on #1574.
Marry two rope ends and, holding the structure vertically and with-
out shifting the grip, crown the upper strands to the right and wall
the lower strands in the same direction. Tuck each lower end once
to the right, following below the upper crown; next tuck each end
of the original crown once parallel with and below the bight which
issues from the same compartment. This brings all ends out at the
middle cross section of the knot. Stick all up-pointing ends to the
top stem under four bights (right arrow) and stick all down-pointing
ends to the lower stem under two bights (left arrow).
Directions are often given in old seamanship books to tie Shroud
Knots left-handed . This, I think, may have reference to cable-laid
shrouds, which are, of course, left-handed. Shroud Knots are com-
monly wormed and served, and if tied against the lay the strands
would lie in the wrong direction for worming. In general it may be
said that all Multi-Strand Knots should be tied with the lay, unless
for a good and specific reason. Sailors, like other people, are apt
to do things the easiest way, which for a left-handed sailor would
be “against the lay” of plain-laid rope.
1579 . To shroud knot two ends that have an unequal number of
strands: With three- and four-strand rope the most practical way is
[ 278 1
SHROUD KNOTS ( MULTI- STRAND BENDS)
to seize the four-strand end carefully and cut off one strand close
to the seizing. Then knot as two three-strand ropes by one of the
methods that has been given.
In shroud knotting four-strand rope or sinnet to six-strand ma-
terial proceed as follows: Crotch the two ends in the manner pic-
tured, the double strands and the single strands in the larger end al-
ternating. Work the double strands as units and tie exactly as #1578,
From this point follow the lead wherever it is required to make all
parts double. Finally stick all ends out at the rim. Work snug and
trim the ends.
1580 . A Shroud Knot based on Captain Whitney’s Sinnet Knot
#759. Marry the ends, crown the upper strands to the right and wall
the lower strands to right as in #1578. Lead an end from the upper
crown down and to the left around a lower end and up through its
own bight in the original crown. Repeat with the rest of the strands
of the crown. Then take an end from the lower wall, lead it to the
lefty which brings it below the original crown, and stick it down to
the stem as pictured. Draw taut and finish off in any of the five ways
shown on page 275.
1581 . The Napkin Ring. With two pieces of three-strand rope,
crown and wall as #1574. With the strands of the upper crown tie
a Single Matthew Walker Knot and stick each end in turn up
through the crown to the top. Then lay an end from the lower wall
up between the strands of the Matthew Walker and parallel to it
and stick it down under four parts to the stem. Repeat with the rest
of the strands of the lower wall; the last strand is stuck down under
five parts.
1582 . The Star Shroud Knot. Marry two ends with four, five
or six strands each. With the lower strands tie the first movement of
the Star Knot with strands leading to the right. Having done this, turn
the structure end for end and tie another first movement of the Star
Knot but with ends leading to the left. The second sketch shows the
knot at this point with all ends leading to the left, as the structure
was turned end for end after the first operation, which reversed the
lead of the first part of the knot. Bring the two knots close together
with bights opposite each other and reeve the opposite ends of each
knot through the bights of the other knot, parallel to each other, so
that all ends emerge close to the stem. Next lead all ends parallel to
the established lay and stick all to the stem, half of them up and half
of them down.
To make a Five-Pointed Star with shroud-laid rope: splice an
extra strand (one tuck each way) to the small rope heart. (See Splice
#2828.)
[ 279 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1583. A Shroud Knot based on the Diamond Knot. Take two
ends, but do not crotch them. Turn down the ends of one rope and
wall them, then tuck them in turn over one and under one as illus-
trated. Open the other rope and stick the ends reversely, parallel with
the knot already tied. With these ends double the first knot and as
each end reaches the upper rim tuck it under all to the lower rim.
1584. To make a Double Diamond Shroud Knot. Open, marry
and seize two ends together. Tie a right-handed Diamond Knot
(#693) in the lower strands, then turn the structure end for end and
tie a similar knot with the other strands. Cross and tuck two adja-
cent strands from opposite ends as illustrated and arrange the other
opposing pairs in the same way. Tuck all ends parallel with the
established lead until they have returned to the center length of the
knot again, as the pair illustrated in the right diagram. Then, using
the loop buttoner, draw all strands underneath and out to the rims.
The size of this knot may be increased by making additional tucks
before doubling, or it may be made smaller by tying an initial wall
instead of a diamond at one of the ends.
1585. To make a Single Diamond Shroud Knot. Marry two sin-
nets of six strands each (or any number of strands). Crown the
upper ends to the right and seize them just below the crown. Lay
them downward to the right in a 45-degree helix for the length
desired for the knot and seize again, having first arranged the
strands of the two ends so that they alternate in proper order around
the rope or sinnet. Bring the lower strands (hitherto inactive) for-
ward, each between two of the opposite strands, and tie them in a right
wall around the other set. Next tuck each of these ends to the right
and over the first diagonal and under the second diagonal of the op-
posing set. Tuck each end again in turn until as many tiers have been
tucked as are required. Then stick the ends up under two parts as
shown by the arrow in the left diagram. Work snug with the prickei
and trim all ends. Remove the end seizings as soon as they are not
required.
1586. A single knot. This provides a method that may be tied
either single or double, and will make as large a knot as may be de-
sired. Marry two ropes and seize twice at the length where the rims
are to be. Paste a piece of paper to form a sleeve around this central
section, which will hide all parts that are not being worked. Helix
each upper strand downward over the sleeve to the right and lay it
between two lower strands. Bring the lower strands forward and
seize the upper strands below the edge of the paper sleeve. Tuck the
lower strands upward and to the right, each in turn, over one and
under one . Repeat again with each strand in turn until the knot is
the desired width. The knot may now be worked taut, and as the
work progresses remove the sleeve and seizings.
[ 280 ]
SHROUD KNOTS (MULTI-STRAND BENDS)
1587. To double the last knot: Bring each strand to the right
above and parallel with the bights of the strands that were first
turned down. Tucking each strand once in turn, repeat until the
knot is completely doubled.
1588. A knot that superficially resembles the Matthew Walker
Knot. Marry two ends of three strands each and put on two seizings
at twice the diameter of the rope apart. Bring the upper strands down
in a right helix and lay the lower strands upward between them in
a left helix. Seize all strands outside the previous seizings as indicated
by the dotted lines. Take a lower end and tuck it upward and to the
right under one strand; repeat with the other two lower strands.
Turn the structure end for end and repeat with the opposing ends.
Tuck all strands under in tiers until each has been tucked under six.
Draw taut and trim the ends.
If a larger knot is wanted, employ more strands and tuck under
additional parts as wished.
1589. A Herringbone Shroud Knot. Take two sinnets of six
strands each (or some other number), marry the ends and seize in
two places, about twice the diameter of the sinnet apart. Lead the
upper set in a right downward helix and seize at the bottom, leaving
the lower set free. Take any one of the free strands of the lower set
and tuck it upward to the right over two and under two y then repeat
with each lower end in turn. Continue to tuck over two and under
two until the knot is the desired width. Work taut and trim all ends.
1590. A “Tassel” Shroud Knot. This is best made with three-
strand Manila rope. Crotch two ends and put on a very strong and
narrow seizing (the Constrictor Knot in five- or six-ply sail twine
will serve). Single wall all six strands together to the right. Be certain
that the strands of the two sets are led alternately into the knot, first
an upper, then a lower one. Next crown the six strands to the right
above the wall and finally tuck all ends down to the stem as shown
by the arrow. Work the knot very snug.
If, instead of employing this as a Shroud Knot, it is desired to
make a Tassel of it, cut off the lower rope at the length of the other
strands. This gives nine strands in all to be opened into yarns. Put a
drop of Duco cement on the end of each yarn if it is desired that
they should not ravel.
1591. Another Shroud Knot with all ends pointing in one direc-
tion. Marry two ends and seize them strongly at the crossing, hold
them vertically and, without shifting the grip, wall the upper
strands; then wall the lower strands (both sets to the right). Stick
the lower ends up to the stem, through the upper wall, as pictured
in the left diagram. Draw all snug, working the two walls together
while pulling at the ends. This may also be used as a Tassel by
cutting the rope off at the length of the strand ends. But it will not
prove so secure as the previous Tassel.
[ ?.8i ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1592. A Cube-Shaped Shroud Knot. Marry two ends of fout
strands each, seize stoutly at the point of crossing with a Con-
strictor Knot (#1249). Lay each set of strands a short distance
along the opposite structure and seize again (four or five times the
diameter of the rope apart). Roll a strip of white paper tightly
around the section between the seizings and paste down the end to
form a sleeve. This is merely to save confusion.
Helix the upper strands downward to the right, passing with each
end all the strands of the other set . Seize the four ends below the
paper sleeve and bring each of the lower strands forward between
two of the strands that have been seized together. Lead the lower set
in a left helix to the top, laying each strand between two strands of
the opposing set and parallel with them. Seize these strands at the
top just beyond the edge of the paper cylinder. The structure
should now resemble the second diagram.
Tuck each bottom end to the right under the first bight of the
opposing strands. Turn the structure upside down and tuck each of
the lower ends to the right under the first bight of the opposing
strands. Then tuck the second set only, once more over one and
under one.
Note that at this point with sister strands the over-and-under is
parallel, not contrary.
Next, without further tucking, arrange the opposing ends in the
center to lie alternately, exactly as in the fourth diagram. If it seems
impossible to arrange any two opposing strands in this way, try the
next strand of the opposing set instead, either the one to the right
or the one to the left of the one that proved bothersome.
Having arranged the strands as directed, tuck all ends one set at
a time over one and under one. One of the two sets will have to be
tucked a second time over one and under one, to bring all ends out
at the rim. This makes a regular basket-weave surface. The knot
must now be worked methodically and deliberately and prodded
constantly to make it assume its proper cubical shape. The end seiz-
ings and the paper sleeve are removed as the knot is drawn up.
(Scissors will be of assistance.) Only the original basic seizing is left.
A similar knot of triangular cross section may be made with three-
strand rope, but it is not so satisfactory.
1593. A Two-Strand Shroud Knot. Wall the strands of the lower
end and insert the strands of the upper end as indicated by the ar-
rows in the second diagram. Work the knot a little more snugly
into shape and then tuck the ends as in the third diagram. This knot,
in common with many of the smaller knots of other series, is very
easily spilled until well drawn up. In knot tying, simple forms fre-
quently are more difficult to work than the more intricate ones.
[ “82 ]
CHAPTER 20: BELAYING AND MAKING FAST
/ thought I heard the Old Man say ,
“Give one more haul y and then belay!”
Sea Shanty
We now leave the discussion of knots proper to consider the
subject of hitches . A hitch is a complication that secures a rope to
another object, generally of a different nature. But this is not neces-
sarily so, since the object may be another rope, provided the hitch
is made entirely with the active rope, and the second rope remains
inactive. The first variety of hitch to be discussed will be hitches to
pegs, cleats, belaying pins, bitts, kevels and timberheads.
To belay is to take one or more S turns around one of the several
objects, just named, which are to be pictured in this chapter.
To make fast is to secure these turns by adding a Single Hitch
over the belaying turns.
The Single Hitch (#1594) should not be confused with either
the Slippery Hitch (#1620) or the Half Hitch (#1662). It con-
sists of a single turn around an object with the end laid under its own
standing part.
This holds the end against the object.
The Slippery Hitch is similar, but a bight instead of the end is
tucked under the standing part.
The Half Hitch (#1662) consists of a Single Hitch made with
an end around its oavn standing part . The Single Hitch (#1594) is
one half of a Clove Hitch (#1178), while the Half Hitch (#1662)
is one half of Two Half Hitches (#1710). The Single Hitch spills
when removed from its object, while the Half Hitch, upon re-
moval, pulls up into an Overhand Knot (#515). The Clove Hitch
spills upon removal, while Two Half Hitches capsizes into a Granny
Knot (#3).
[283 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
The Slippery Hitch, having been put to work, spills instantly
when the end of the rope is pulled. This withdraws the bight and
releases the rope.
The Single Hitch must first be relieved of its load, after which
it can be untied by flirting or jerking the standing part.
The Half Hitch must be opened and the end withdrawn by hand.
1594. A Hitch, or a Single Hitch, is sometimes, but not often,
termed a Simple Hitch; the name Single Hitch was applied by
Lieutenant (subsequently Admiral) Luce in his Seamanship of 1862.
The end of the rope is nipped under the standing part against an
edge or shoulder, and if the adjustment is good the knot is secure.
Unless the end of the rope is very short, and the need temporary,
a Slippery Hitch will be found preferable, as it is easier to untie.
1595. A single turn and a Single Hitch is often used for tem-
porary purposes on either a belaying pin or a cleat.
1596. A Single Hitch, applied to the crotch or branch of a tree,
is quite secure but is apt to pinch or bind on account of the rough-
ness of the bark and may have to be removed by hand. Generally
the Single Hitch can be removed by shaking or flirting the standing
part after the load has been removed.
1597. Jib sheets on a small boat are often belayed to thumb cleats
in this fashion. By lifting the end behind the standing part the hitch
is spilled almost as easily as the Slippery Hitch, which is more often
used for the purpose.
1598. A Single Hitch to a stud is a common attachment to a
small ratcheted windlass which is used for a variety of purposes,
such as tightening lawn-tennis-net ropes and awning hoists. The
stud is preferably countersunk so that the rope will not be damaged
by it.
1599. A sash cord is recessed in a groove and socket in the side of
a sash. A flathead screw through the center of the Single Hitch
holds the end securely in place.
1600. A Single Hitch taken over the top of a post or pole in the
manner pictured, with a groove across the post end, would seem to
be more secure than Knot # 218 .
1601. The Black wall Hitch is one of the most common applica-
tions of the Single Hitch, but it is not to be trusted too far. At sea
it is used in setting up rigging lanyards when they are too short to
tie with a better hitch. The name Blackwall Hitch was applied by
Steel in 1794.
I bos' \6oe
1602. The Single Hitch is always used when starting to wind ma-
terial on a netting needle. It is also used when starting to wind a kite
string on a stick, or a line on a reel.
1603. Whaleboat and other small-boat halyards are made fast to
a peg on the underside of a coaming or thwart with either a Single
Hitch or a Slippery Hitch.
1604. When no peg is at hand, a number of turns of rope may be
taken around a thwart and the end jammed as pictured. This hitch
may be slipped if desired.
1605. If the rope is too small for the peg, lay back the end and
twist the two parts together to increase its bulk, then make a Single
Hitch with the doubled part.
[ 284 ]
BELAYING AND MAKING FAST
1606. If you are at all nervous when lowering yourself from aloft
with a Single Hitch, tie an Overhand Knot in the end before form-
ing the hitch. When you have returned to deck the hitch is removed
by shaking or flirting the rope.
1607. The knot pictured here is in formation a Half Hitch. But
the principle by which it is nipped is the principle of the Single
Hitch (#1603).
1608. Pin racks are seized in the rigging well above deck and are
belayed to in bad weather, or when there is a deck load, or if the
deck is cluttered.
1609. A right-hand turn on a pin is the one that is naturally taken
by a right-handed sailor. When running rigging has been hauled
taut the mate usually shouts, “So!” “Enough!” “Hold!” “Hold it!”
“There!” or any other individual expression that he fancies, and to
which the crew must become accustomed. The next order is, “Belay”
which may be followed by “Make fast,” after sufficient turns have
been taken. The preferred way is shown in which to take the initial
turn when the standing part leads from the left.
1610. A left-hand turn is the one naturally taken by a left-
handed sailor. Right-hand turns are sometimes insisted on, as uni-
formity is desirable, particularly at night, when a sailor has to “see
with his fingers.” But the direction of the initial turn is usually de-
termined by the lead of the rope, except when a rope leads up and
down.
The length of a belaying pin depends on the thickness of the rail.
Generally a pin projects six or seven inches below the rail, but the
handle of the pin may be anything up to twelve or fourteen inches
above the rail, depending on the size of the coil that is hung from it.
Sometimes coils are divided and hang from two neighboring pins.
1611. Right-hand belay ing-pin turns are taken in this way, but
there is no tendency for a rope to twist, whichever way the turns
are taken, as the turn at the top is always the reverse of the turn at
the bottom, so that the two compensate each other.
1612. An initial round turn on a pin is common, in fact preferable,
but after the first turn a round turn is lubberly and not to be coun-
tenanced.
1613. When possible, a cleat should be fixed so that the lead of
the standing part is at an angle with it, be it either from the left or
from the right.
1614. “Make fast ” ( contra , “ Cast off”). This is the order to add a
Single Hitch to the top of the coil on a pin, or on the forward or
upper horn of a cleat.
1615. Anti-Galligan Hitch. The name is derived from “anti-
Gallican” and is a survival from the Napoleonic Wars. Incidentally
it is the most polite name I know for a “left-hand” Belaying-Pin
Hitch, which is at times very difficult to untie.
1616. Belay and stop. A method of relieving the strain on a belay-
ing pin by means of a stopper. This is also known as “backing”’ a
sheet, brace, etc.
1617. A deck lead allows of stronger hauling than a straight lead.
1618. A “permanent lead” is generally rove through an eye or a
block that is fast to a staple or ring on deck.
[2853
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1619. The name Slippery Hitch is given in the anonymous Vo-
cabulary of Sea Phrases (1799), and Norie (1802) speaks of the
“Slippering Hitch.” On shipboard the knot is seldom called for, but
in small boats, especially open boats that are easily capsizable, the
necessity frequently arises for instant casting off, and the Slippery
Hitch is found indispensable. A whaleboat’s halyards as well as sheets
are always secured with them, since a Slipped Knot admits of casting
off without first removing the load.
1620. The former knot is the Slippery Hitch. This one is called
a Slippery Pin Hitch, and is for the same purpose.
1621. A Slippery Hitch may be applied to a cleat as illustrated.
On small boats the cleat takes the place of the belaying pin.
1622. A Slippery Hitch to a thumb cleat . In this manner the jib
sheets of small boats are often secured.
1623. A slipped turn on a cleat is often confused with the Slippery
Hitch.
1624. A clothesline cleat of galvanized iron. The acute angle of
the horn pinches the line enough to hold it taut while the turns are
being added.
1625. A composite cleat with iron standard and wooden horns;
the date is around 1875.
1626. A pinch cleat is designed to grip a rope instantly and hold
it without rendering until turns can be added. In various patterns
they are found on small racing boats, in stage scenery, etc., wherever
quick handling is required.
1627. A common commercial galvanized iron cleat for awnings,
clotheslines, etc.
1628. A shroud or rigging cleat is shown by Lever in 1808. It is
scored for three seizings, which are to be snaked.
1629. The modern shroud or rigging cleat is similar in shape but
is made of galvanized iron or bronze.
1630. A mast cleat , that is shown by Lever, has a score for the
seizing and a long hole through which the under turns are laid.
When these have been tightly applied, crossing turns are added
through two round holes, which tightens or fraps the seizing and
holds the cleat snugly to the mast. The crossing turns may be snaked.
1631. The horns of an old-fashioned cleat were more curved than
those in common use today.
Screws are a nineteenth-century invention and cleats of an early
date were nailed or, occasionally, bolted. Nails should be shellacked,
dried and well toed when driven.
1632. This cleat is copied from Roding (1795). The nails are ex-
ceedingly long and were not toed.
*
1633. A horn cleat from the davit tackles of the bark Sunbeam.
The specimen was eighteen inches in length. The upper horn is
made long in order to hold the turns of a large coil.
1634. An anvil cleat for the halyards of a small yacht.
1635. On small craft, where decks are always crowded, deck cleats,
if they are used at all, should have wide flat tops. These are much
easier on the feet than upturned horns. Moreover the horns should
1 286 1
BELAYING AND MAKING FAST
either be very close to deck or else so open that bare toes will not
be pinched under them. It is preferable to have cleats fixed to houses
and masts and at an angle with the lead.
The cleat pictured was made about 1 800. More recent deck cleats
are tapered instead of being square-horned. On coastwise vessels,
both sail and steam, and on scows, barges and canal boats, large iron
deck cleats are common. They are also much used on modem cement
wharfs, which have little piling to make fast to. But on deep-sea
sailing craft they are not often seen. Clear decks are needed for the
day’s work and deck cleats are very apt to foul running rigging.
1636. A combined thumb and pinch cleat of bronze has been used
for jib sheets.
1637. A bronze rocker cleat is made for a similar purpose. It re-
quires very few turns and no hitch, as the pull of the sail clamps the
forward horn hard down on the turn of the sheet.
1638. For small craft a mainsheet cleat is sometimes fitted with a
hole. A Figure-Eight Knot is put in the end of the sheet to prevent
unreeving. The illustration shows an early example.
1639. This illustrates horn cleat #1633, in use on the davit of a
whaler.
1640. A thumb cleat on the side of the davit serves as a fair-leader
to keep the fall from fouling the whaleboat.
1641. The shoe cleat is somewhat similar in form to #1642, but
it does not have the “ norman as the iron crossbar is termed. The
one given here is copied from Roding (1795).
1642. The ram’s-head cleat is an old form that is now being re-
vived. It is used to make fast a schooner’s halyards.
1643. A loggerhead in the stern of a whaleboat is the means of
snubbing and also holding fast the whale line with a series of round
turns.
1644. As an iceboat has no deck, it is important that all coils
should be fixed. This method of belaying exhausts the halyard and
serves the double purpose of coiling and belaying. It was pictured
and described by Ohrvall in Om Knutar in 1916, and is found on lake
scows and other light racing craft.
1645. A thumb cleat is sometimes used as a fair-leader at the fife
rail.
1646. A chock is commonly used to provide a proper lead for
various heavy warps.
1647. A fair-leader with “ rollers ” serves the same purpose with less
friction.
1648. A single bitt with a norman (an iron crossbar) is often used
for the mainsheet bitts of a small schooner. S turns are taken on bitts
exactly as on cleats and pins, only, of course, horizontally. A similar
bitt forward is often placed on small motor craft for the “anchor
warp.”
1649. A mainsheet bitt may have a mortised oak cleat which takes
the place of the norman. This is commonly found on fishermen.
1650. Double bitts were formerly mortised with a similar cleat.
On schooners main- and foresheets were made fast to them, and, on
square-riggers, sheets and braces.
\ 287 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1651. Kevels or emails are a seemingly obsolete variety of cleats or
bitts that were let into the bulwarks of a ship and to which braces
and sheets were belayed. The present drawing is abstracted from Du
Clairbois, Encyclopedic Methodique Marine (1783).
1652. Timberheads are ribs that are carried well above deck and
mortised through the rail to serve as bitts.
1653. A bollard was originally a knighthead and, later, a large post
at either side of a dock. Nowadays the name generally refers to
round bitts of cast iron which may be either single or in pairs and
are to be found either on the dockside or on shipboard, in the latter
case generally on steamships.
1654. On wharfs and on steamships iron bollards are apt to have
mushroom tops to prevent the hawsers from riding. It is generally
easier to seize the ends (of hawsers) than it is to make them fast with
hitches. But a large spliced eye placed over the bollard is preferable
to either.
1655. A long quarter cleat bolted to the starboard stanchions was
employed on a whale ship either in tying up or when getting a whale
alongside. A similar cleat was generally to be found forward. It was
not an uncommon fixture in other kind of craft.
1656. A single bitt , from Histoire de la Marine by De Joinville,
is illustrated here. There is a similar one at the main fife rail of the
British school ship Implacable , but without the norman, and with
the addition of several shivs close to deck.
1657. A hawser belayed to double bitts, and made fast with a
Single Hitch, is shown by Steel in 1794. Generally a round turn is
first taken about one bitt with which to snub the line, before the S
turns are added.
In large stuff it is good practice to put on sufficient turns to make
it unnecessary to make fast at all, although, if desired, stops can be
added. Hitches are difficult to put in heavy stuff and turns are more
easily cast off.
1658. A mainmast fair-leader from an old square-rigger. A fair-
leader serves several purposes. It lessens the slatting of the rigging, it
also prevents loose ends from going adrift, since the Figure-Eight
Knots in the rope’s ends cannot pass through the holes. When sev-
eral lines are slacked off at a time the positions of the holes serve to
identify them. Fair-leaders, similar to pin racks, are seized in the
shrouds about ten feet above deck, where they fill much the same
purpose as the one given here for the mast.
1659. Bitts and bitt stopper from Gower (1808). The stopper is
secured to a ring on the bitts with a Long Running Eye. After pass-
ing once around the cable, the end is dogged forward around the
cable and “attended” by a sailor. Any running out of the cable nips
it more firmly to the bitts.
1660. A cable is always “turned” around the bitts as pictured here,
a turn in the starboard bitt being the reverse of the turn in the port
bitt. The end of the cable abaft the bitts is the “bitter end.” The
common expression, “reached the bitter end,” refers to a situation
of extremity and has nothing at all to do with lees and dregs and
other unpalatable things. It means literally that someone has “got to
the end of his rope.”
1661. Deck stoppers are passed and secured to the eyebolts down
both sides of the deck on the way to the chain locker, which used to
be just forward of and below the main hatch.
[ 288
CHAPTER 21: HITCHES TO SPAR AND RAIL
(RIGHT-ANGLE PULL)
To Hitch , Is to catch-hold of Anything with a roape } to hold it fast .
3ir Henry Manwayring:
The Sea-mans Dictionary , 1644
The verb hitch is seldom heard at sea. The expression make fast
is used instead, and hitch as a verb is applied only to various marling-
spike seamanship practices, such as half hitching , marling , palm and
needle , and ringbolt hitching .
But there is also an exception in the use of the expression make
fast. Although the knots employed are really hitches, the sailor
bends instead of making fast to an anchor or a spar. There are three
hitches so used that are always termed bends . They are the Studding-
Sail Bend, the Topsail Halyard Bend and the Fisherman’s Bend.
These three knots are basically alike and the differences between
them consist either in the number of the turns or the method of
tucking the end.
This chapter is composed of hitches to objects of more or less
cylindrical form, the pull being at an angle with the object. These
are of two general sorts, the first treated being Snug Hitches of
two or more turns, in which the ends are secured under one or more
of the turns. The second variety consists of Loose Hitches of one
or more turns in which the ends are secured to the standing part,
generally with one or two Half Hitches.
The Timber Hitch is an exception to this classification, for, al-
though it has but one turn around the spar, the end is secured under
the one turn.
[ 289 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
^V\I66 2. ^
' IbM ^
/ 6
/r
63
1670
167 I
l 67 3
1662. The Half Hitch as shown here is generally the first step
in tying some more elaborate hitch. It should not be used unsup-
ported, as it is by no means dependable. But, if seized, it becomes
secure. The name Half Hitch is given by Falconer (1769).
1663 . The Half Hitch, with the nip adjusted to bear at the top
of the spar, is quite a different thing. So long as the pull is constant,
and the adjustment is not altered by loosening or shaking, the hitch
is adequate for almost any temporary purpose.
1664 . A Slipped Half Hitch, with the nip near the top of the
spar, may also be used with discretion.
1665 . The Timber Hitch, sometimes called Lumberman’s Knot
and Countryman’s Knot, was used at sea for securing the standing
ends of topsail clewlines and fore and main clew garnets, according
to the Manual of Seamanship (1891). In the Manuscript on Rigging
(circa 1625), edited by R. C. Anderson, and published by the So-
ciety for Nautical Research, is the statement: “The tymber Hitch is
to fasten the truss to the middle of ye Mayne yearde.” Diderot illus-
trates the knot in 1762 and Steel illustrates and names it in 1794.
The hitch is much used in handling cargo, for which it is very
convenient, as it practically falls apart when pull ceases. It is used
for spars, timber, small crates and bales. The turns should always be
“dogged” 'with the lay of the rope. Three tucks or turns are ample.
1666. A Figure-Eight Hitch is more secure than the Half Hitch
(# 1662), particularly if the encompassed object is small.
1667 . The above knot, slipped, was formerly tied in wicks and
used in candle dipping.
V
1668 . The Figure-Eight Timber Hitch is approximately as secure
as #1665 an d requires one less tuck.
1669 . The Figure-Eight Hitch and round turn. If the rope is
weak and the hoist is heavy, a round turn on the standing part adds
materially to the strength of the knot.
1670 . 1671 . The Clove Hitch is a common Post Hitch. When
made fast to a spar, the end should either be stopped (# 1670) or half
hitched (#1671) to its own standing part, as the knot has a tendency
to slip. The name Clove Hitch appears in Falconer’s Dictionary
(1769).
1672 . The Clove Hitch with the end tucked through the standing
part is a semipermanent hitch that is used in boat lashing.
1673 . The Cow Hitch or Lanyard Hitch is the knot that is em-
ployed in securing a lanyard to a shroud. It is the same knot forma-
tion as the Bale Sling Hitch, or Ring Hitch (#1859), and the
Running Eye (#1699), but the Cow Hitch is tied in the end of the
[ 290 ]
HITCHES TO SPAR AND RAIL (RIGHT-ANGLE PULL)
rigging lanyard while the Bale Sling Hitch is tied in the bight of a
continuous strap or wreath and a Running Eye is tied in an Eye
Splice.
1674. This brings us to Snug Hitches, in which the end is secured
under a turn. This one is both strong and secure. It is well to draw
up all knots carefully before putting them to work.
1675. Another hitch that is equally secure and, moreover, does not
bind or jam. In big material particularly a knot that does not jam
is most desirable.
1676. The Picket-Line Hitch is a practical Snug Hitch that does
not slip when properly drawn up. It was shown to me by J. Law-
rence Houghteling, who learned it while in service with the artillery.
It does not appear to be a regulation army knot. It should be noted
that this knot is the start for a 3L X 4B Turk’s-Head. The same
formation, reversed, is used by fishermen on their trawl and is shown,
at the bottom of this page, as the Ground Line Hitch.
1677. Gaff Topsail Halyard Bend. This is a neat and snug
hitch that is very easily untied. The tucked end should be nipped
well up on the top of the spar.
1678. The Studding-Sail Bend is used for bending topgallant and
royal studding-sail halyards. Except for the manner of securing the
end, it is the same knot as the Fisherman’s Bend (#1722). Having
tied the previous hitch (#1677), lead the end back over the first
turn and tuck under the second. It is not necessary to lead the end
toward the top of the spar as the additional tuck makes it sufficiently
secure. Brady names and describes the knot in 1841, saying, “The
advantage is this, that it lies close to the yard and consequently
permits of little or no drift between the yard and the block.”
1679. The Topsail Halyard Bend is said to be a yachting hitch,
but it is possible that it has never appeared outside the covers of a
book. It has one more turn than the Studding-Sail Bend and this,
like the second tablespoonful of castor oil, savors of redundancy.
1680. The Ground Line Hitch is the standard knot of the cod
fishermen. It is used in affixing ganging lines to the ground line of
Codfish Trawl #277. A short bight near the end is held with the
left thumb against the heavier ground line, and two tight turns are
taken to the right with the end, and the end is then stuck through
the bight that has been held by the left thumb. The standing part
is then pulled snug. Tied in this way, very little end is wasted. The
gangings are fixed to the ground line at frequent intervals and the
loose ends of the gangings, before they are secured to the ground line,
are fitted with loops to which, at the proper time, hooks are at-
tached by means or Ring Hitches (#311).
[ 29 1 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1681. The Rolling Hitch was named by Dana in 1841 and the
title is nowadays universally applied to the knot. But earlier authors.
Lever, Biddlecomb and others, including Steel (1794), called it
Magnus Hitch and sometimes Magner’s Hitch. Knot #1721 was
the original Rolling Hitch (Falconer, 1769), but Dana and subse-
quent authors have renamed it “Two Round Turns and Two Half
Hitches.”
The feature of the present-day Rolling Hitch (formerly Magnus
Hitch) is its non-liability to slip under a lengthwise pull in the
direction of the round turn. To tie: First make a round turn to the
right, pass the end to the left in front of the standing part and add
a Half Hitch to the left. Sometimes an additional Half Hitch is
added to the neck of this knot, with the idea that this checks the
tendency to slip if the pull is reversed.
1682. A Buoy Rope Hitch, collected at Looe, in Cornwall. The
headrope of a seine is generally double, with two ropes of opposing
lays, which prevents twisting and rolling up the head. The hitch
may be used with either a single or a double headrope.
1683. The next four knots are the results of an attempt to make
a compact Snug Hitch for semipermanent use. This one is compact
but requires considerable arrangement.
1684. This knot is neater, requires less tucking and is every bit as
satisfactory in other respects. The appearance is augmented by the
resemblance to Three-Strand Sinnet.
1685. The sinnet effect is also in evidence in this one, and the
end, being tucked twice after passing the standing part, is more
secure.
1686. In this knot the sinnet effect is carried still farther, and a very
regular Snug Hitch is the result. These are all handsome knots that
would serve well on a boat boom and are fairly easy to untie.
1687. A decorative hitch for a boat boom that needs but one
tuck. For the first three turns the lead is taken over all. After the
required single tuck has been made, the knot must be worked taut.
F 292 ]
HITCHES TO SPAR AND RAIL (RIGHT -ANGLE PULL)
1688. The knots on this page resulted from a search for a hitch
that will draw snug without any working. The last four or five knots
of the previous page must all be worked.
The present hitch appears to be the simplest and most secure of
the lot. It draws up inevitably and has an excellent nip under all
circumstances. Moreover it is exceptionally easy to untie.
1689. Make a round turn about the spar, pass the end behind the
standing part and tuck under the first turn. This requires but one
tuck and is as easy to untie as the former knot.
1690. A Backhanded Hitch. The next two knots, although they
have a double bearing, require but a single pass around the spar. To
tie this: Pass a bight up the back and down the front of the spar with
the loose end at the right. With the end reach through the bight and
half hitch around the standing part and its parallel part, as indicated
with the arrow. Tie with a long end.
1691. In this case the bight is led over the spar from front to back
and a single tuck of the end is all that is required. It may be some-
what simpler than the foregoing. The knot is hardly so snug as the
rest of the series, but it draws up inevitably and is eminently prac-
tical. Tie with a long end.
1692. This is an interesting knot that, if worked tight as in the
second diagram, will make a very satisfactory Snug Hitch. It is
easily untied and has but two turns around the spar. If tied slackly
with a long end, the standing part may be pulled on until a third
turn appears around the spar. This forms a very secure hitch that
is quite as symmetrical on the back as on the front and does not jam.
Moreover it is one of the easiest of all to untie.
1693. The left diagram shows a Clove Hitch. Pass the end to the
left in back of the standing part and under the crossed turns. The
result is a hitch that is firm, strong, secure and easily untied once the
load has been removed.
[ 293 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OE KNOTS
1694. The Strap Hitch or Bale Sling Hitch is the most secure
of all hitches, since it has no ends to untie. Moreover it cannot jam,
being one of the easiest of hitches to loosen. It is used in rigging
straps, in cargo slings and in elastic bands.
1695. The Double Strap Hitch is tied in hand by drawing a bight
from the standing part through the Double Loop already formed.
Used- in longshore fishing gear.
1696. A Knotted Strap Hitch which cannot untie. Add a Half
Hitch close outside the bight. It is found on lobster, eel and crab
pots.
1697. The Kellig Hitch, also called Slingstone Hitch, is found
on lobster- and crab-pot gear, where it is secured to the stones by
which the pots are anchored.
1698. Strap and Becket Hitch is one of the commonest methods
of fastening slings, halyards and other gear, both standing and run-
ning. In standing rigging most hitches are seized.
1699. A Running Eye is a neat hitch of the same basic sort as the
last by which tyes, studding-sail halyards, stays, and other gear are
made fast to different spars. The Eye Splice, which is generally
served over, is held in place while the whole length of the line is rove
through it. But if a Loop Knot should be used for a similar purpose
(temporary) it may be tied in the standing end directly around the
standing part so that no reeving is required.
1700. A Long Running Eye serves a similar purpose and is easier
to adjust. The great length of the eye allows a whole coil of line
to be passed through it at one time, dispensing with the tedious
reeving required for the previous knot. It is used on yards in bending
and furling sail, and is tied to the lead on a sounding line.
1701. A Pendant Hitch consists of a hooked round turn and is
“hitched” to a yard. Here the verb hitch is nautically correct as a
hook is always “hitched,” although a rope may not be. A quarter
tackle is made fast in this manner and is used for getting aboard
provisions.
1702. A Studding-Sail Halyard Strap consists of a short selvagee
made about the standing end of a studding-sail halyard. A button-
and-eye fastening is made which is quickly and easily put in or
cast off.
1703. A permanent strap is a convenient arrangement for hooking
a block to a yard.
0
1704. A Leather Strap Hitch, used for various purposes ashore.
The end is rove through the slit asi# 1699.
1705. Another Strap Hitch. This must be slipped over the end
of the object to which it is fastened. Take a strap, soften the leather
in warm water, and cut two parallel slits dividing the strap into three
equal parts. Double the strap back across the two slits and twist or
slue each of the three bights that are formed one half a turn. Reeve
the cylinder through them and pound smooth.
1706. Continuing from #1705, remove the cylinder, take the free
end of the strap and stick it through the three loops from right to
left, keeping the hide or grain side to the front . Draw up firmly and
carefully until it fits the cylinder snugly in the form pictured and
then pound the knot smooth. This is given by Lester Griswold in
Handicraft , which is a very informative book that is very well
illustrated.
[ 294 ]
HITCHES TO SPAR AND RAIL (RIGHT -ANGLE PULL)
1707. The remaining knots of this chapter are Loose Hitches in
which one or more turns are taken about the spar and the end is
secured around the standing part.
The Half Hitch is the basic knot in this series as well as in the
last. But with the end drawn close around the standing part, it is
iuite undependable. In order to hold well, it should be arranged as
1663 .
1708. The loop of the Slipped Half Hitch bulks larger than the
single end of # 1707 ; for that reason it is perhaps a better hitch. It is
a very common knot, but it is improved when arranged as the fol-
lowing knot.
1709. The “Half Hitched Half Hitch” is a good knot that can-
not jam, will not slip, and unties easily.
1710. Two Half Hitches is the commonest of all hitches for
mooring in particular and also for general utility. Steel gives the
name in 1794 . The difference between Two Half Hitches and the
Clove Hitch is that the former, after a single turn around a spar,
is made fast around its own standing part, while the latter is tied
directly around the spar.
1711. The Buntline Hitch, when bent to a yard, makes a more
secure knot than Two Half Hitches, but is more liable to jam. It
differs from Two Half Hitches in that the second Half Hitch
l
is inside instead of outside the first one.
1712. The Slipped Buntline Hitch has been recommended in
agricultural college bulletins as a means of “tying up” horses.
1713. Reverse Hitches has less tendency to jam than Two Half
Hitches (which has practically none) and is not a bad hitch for
many purposes. It hardly seems to deserve the opprobrium that
has been heaped upon it. Captain Benjamin A. Higgins, in answer
to a question of mine, said: “I don’t know what you call it; but if I
catch the Greenie that tied it, I know what Vll call him, P*
1714. The Lobster Buoy Hitch was shown to me years ago by
John B. Cornell, of Cuttyhunk, who used it for about every pur-
pose and claimed it was particularly good to tie to timber. As the
chief industry of Cuttyhunk was wrecking, I value his opinion
highly on such a point. The knot is tied tightly around the standing
part and then is slipped along the rope snugly into place. Compare
with # 1711 .
1715. The Slip Noose Hitch is a common farm knot, and is used
the world over for “tying up” or hitching horses to fence rails.
1716. The Bowline Hitch: A sailor will often, having passed his
rope around an object, face about and tie a Bowline in the regular
fashion. A landsman who is acquainted with the knot will usually
form the round turn (shown in second diagram) with his left hand
and reeve the end as shown by the arrow. The preferred sailor way
is to make a Half Hitch, as in the first diagram, and then capsize it
by pulling the end. The knot is then completed as shown by the
arrow.
1717. A Half Hitch in standing rigging is always seized.
1718. A Round Turn and Half Hitch is also seized.
1719. Two Half Hitches, on deck, is not seized; but aloft or in
ground tackle it is seized once and (rarely) twice. The greater the
permanency of any gear, the greater is the care exercised in its tying.
Riggers never seem to tire of adding seizings.
[ 2 95 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1720. The Round Turn and Two Half Hitches is named by
Steel in 1794. If a spar is small a round turn is preferable to a single
turn. It makes a stronger knot and dissipates the wear.
1721. Two Round Turns and Two Half Hitches, so called by
Dana in 1841, and by subsequent authors, was originally called Roll-
ing Hitch (Falconer, 1769). It is a strong, old-fashioned knot that is
excellent to tie to the limb of a tree.
1722. The Fisherman’s Bend is occasionally tied in this manner
with one hitch only, which is always stopped or seized.
1723. The Fisherman’s Bend: The common way of tying this
knot (1808) is with two hitches, which, Lever says, “is used for
bending the studding-sail halyards to the yards.”
1724. The Fisherman’s Bend and Bowline: A quick and con-
venient way in which to finish off this hitch is with a Bowline Knot
when no seizing stuff is handy.
1725. The Backhanded Hitch is used in tying up to the string-
piece of a wharf, where it is usually difficult to reeve the warp un-
derneath the timber. Only a single pass is required. A bight is pushed
through the gap under the stringpiece and the end is then rove
through the bight to be half hitched twice, and then stopped or
seized.
1726. The Backhanded Hitch and Bowline makes a good Tow-
rope Hitch to an automobile axle. An axle is difficult of access, and
the single pass required of this knot is a great convenience. The Bow-
line is quicker to tie than a seizing; moreover it can be applied where
the knot will clear the car.
1727. The Jam Hitch. In structure this is closely related to the
three knots to follow. It belongs equally with the Butcher’s Knots
of Chapter 2 and with the Binder Knots of Chapter 16. The peculi-
arity of the knot is that it closes easily but does not tend to open,
which is the opposite of the hitch which follows. The latter is simi-
lar in construction but reversed. It opens easily but does not tend to
close.
1728. 1729. The Midshipman’s Hitch bears the same relation to
the Rolling Hitch (#1735) that Two Half Hitches (#1710)
bears to the Clove Hitch (#1178). That is to say, the knot is made
fast around its own standing part, while in the Rolling Hitch it is
made fast around another object.
1730. If you have fallen overboard the Midshipman’s Hitch
(#1728) is the knot to tie in the end of the rope that is tossed to you.
Dog the end and hold it in your hand while you are hoisted aboard.
But in big stuff the knot is tied as shown here. In #1728 and #1729
the second turn is jammed under the first taken turn. In big
stuff the end is generally seized. In small stuff it is more convenient
to hitch as in #1729. If the second turn is not jammed down over
the first one, the knot will be adjustable and may be slid with ease
to any place on the standing part where it will hold its position under
tension.
1731. A Single Pass Hitch that must be tied with a very long
loose end. The bight, which, in the first diagram, is at the front, must
be pushed to the back as the knot is drawn up.
1732. Three round turns are excellent for lowering heavy weights
from aloft or from the branch of a tree, and four or five will serve
temporarily as a hitch. Be certain that the turns are snug before
lowering away. “There’s a lot of virtue in a round turn.”
CHAPTER 22: HITCHES TO MASTS, RIGGING,
AND CABLE (Lengthwise Pull)
Instead of tying, Seamen alwayes say, “ Make Fast!”
Captaine John Smith (“Sometimes Govcrnour of Virginia
and Admirall of New England”): A Sea Grammar , 1627
To withstand a lengthwise pull without slipping is about the most
that can be asked of a hitch. Great care must be exercised in tying
the following series of knots, and the impossible must not be ex-
pected, particularly on a wet and varnished spar, or on a polished-
brass fireman’s pole.
On a cable or taut rope the more turns the tail is “dogged” after
a hitch is made, the greater the friction on the rope, and the safer
the hitch. Always dog with the lay of the rope to which you are
making fast.
In securing a small rope to a large one a hitch sometimes partakes
of the nature of a bend (Chapter 18). But in a hitch all the turns will
be in the small rope and the large hawser or cable remains inert, while
in a bend both ropes are involved.
In bending to a mast a sailor often parcels with a canvas patch,
which makes a better holding surface and protects the spar from the
rope.
I have found three things of practical use in making a hitch to a
treacherous surface. The simplest of these is to rub a wet spar with
ashes; the second is to shellac a dry surface and, after the shellac has
“set,” to bend to it. But by far the most practical thing is to wrap a
piece of old tire inner tube around the spar before bending to it. So
far I have found no surface on which this is not effective.
Most of the knots and stoppers pictured here are for a downward
pull— that is to say, for the upper block of a tackle. But for bending
to a spar that is to be hoisted, the same knots may be tied “upside
down.”
[ 297 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1733. The Timber Hitch and Half Hitch is used when towing
a spar. If the spar is long several Single Hitches may be added.
There should always be one at the forward extremity. This knot is
also used in hoisting a light spar “on end.”
I have an old photograph of a wrecker towing a spar with this
knot behind a skiff, which he is propelling with a single scull oar.
The knot appears to be universal and invariable.
1734. The Rolling Hiion (i), formerly called Magnus and Mag-
ner’s Hitch, is simple to tie and the most reliable single knot under
a lengthwise pull. It should be made and loaded carefully. This is
the way the turns should be taken in bending to a spar.
1735. Rolling Hitch (2). Here is the way the turns are taken in
bending to a rope, which is similar to the arrangement of the turns
in the Midshipman’s Hitch (#1729).
1736 . Magnus Hitch. Instead of #1734, the final hitch is some-
times reversed when tying to a cable or rope, particularly if the rope
is slack. This tends to obviate torsion or twisting. Steel shows this
form of the knot in 1794 under the old name Magnus Hitch.
1737. The Rolling Hitch is said to be less liable to slip when
pulled in the direction of the final hitch if a Half Hitch is added as
shown.
1738. A hitch to a double line that may be pulled from either di-
rection. This is made fast to the head of a seine, and is used when
attaching a buoy.
1739. A single-hitched Clove Hitch is sometimes put in the end
of a tail block, but it is by no means so dependable as the Rolling
Hitch and presumably is tied by the inexpert.
1740. This is an attempt to make a hitch that will not give or
render under pull from either direction. It appears to be dependable.
1741. The Camel Hitch was found on the picket line in Ringling
Brothers’ Circus. Not only must the knot remain secure from a pull
in either direction; it must also untie without too much difficulty
while very wet.
1742. T'wo round turns seized. A method of bending a ring rope
to a cable. A ring rope was used to haul a cable out through the
hawse pipe. It was led to a tail block fastened at the bowsprit.
1743. A Reef Pendant Hitch is shown by Qualtrough. This is an
improvement over a cleat on the boom, which is always in the way.
But I think that some of the Circus Pole Hitches shown in Chapter
2, which also properly belong in the present chapter, are an improve-
ment over old practices and are to be recommended for purposes of
this nature.
1744. An Arboreal Hitch or Tree Surgeon’s Knot from the
Bartlett tree surgeons. The practical way of employing this knot is
described on page 77.
1745. The Steeplejack’s Hitch is found on page 74. It was
supplied by Laurie Young. It has one more turn than the Rolling
Hitch. With stirrups suspended from two of these, the tallest flag-
pole may be climbed in comfort.
1746. Slack Line Hitch. After it has once nipped, this knot will
hold well, tied either to a slack rope or a cable of the same or larger
size. Drawn up snugly, it may be pulled from either direction. But
it is not wholly satisfactory if tied to stiff braided rope.
[ 298 1
HITCHES TO MASTS, RIGGING, AND CABLE (LENGTHWISE PULL)
1747. The coastwise steamship sailor of today is apt to secure a
tail block with a series of Half Hitches and a stopped end.
Stoppers and straps are always “passed.” In using the term in this
way, the implication is that, on account of the intricacy of the hitch,
the size of the material, or the heaviness of the task, it is necessary
to pass the rope from one hand to another, or else from one sailor to
another.
1748. A tail block stopped in the rigging. This consists of a Single
Hitch only, but it is dogged half a turn, and it is this dogging which
makes it better practice than #1747. The hitch is also taken so that
any tendency to slip is 'with the ' lay of the rope.
Strictly speaking, a hitch in a small rope around a bigger one is a
Single Hitch, but custom dictates that so long as the hitch is around
a rope of sorts, the formation may be called a Half Hitch. It is more
liable to-be called a Single Hitch when it is taken around a spar. But
here again it is impossible to make a rule, for the terms nowadays
are very loosely applied, even by the sailor himself.
1749. This is similar to the last, but the end is turned back and
“stopped.” It was given by Roding in 1788. The dogging is left-
handed since this is stopped to cable-laid rope.
1750. Knight shows this method of lashing the eye of a tackle
block to a cargo boom with racking turns. Cheeks should be nailed
to the spar if possible.
1751. A tail block hitched, dogged and hitched. This is similar to
#1748, but it is dogged several turns, and the end is hitched instead
of being stopped. Although not so good practice, it is quicker in an
emergency.
1752. A tail block with the tail round turned, then dogged, and
finally secured with a hitch.
1753. A tail block with turns arranged as in a Midshipman’s
Hitch (#1735), and with the end dogged and stopped.
1754. A tail block showing a Midshipman’s Hitch, hitched,
dogged, and hitched.
1755. A cross-lashed strap made fast in the rigging, to hook a
block to. Shakespeare terms this method of lashing (differently ap-
plied) “cross-gartering.”
1756. A cross-lashed strap, for hooking a block or hoisting a spar.
For the latter purpose the drawing should be turned end for end.
1757. A double tail block. The tails are half hitched, dogged and
seized in the same direction, but with opposite twist. They should be
longer than pictured. If the tails are long, they may be dogged sev-
eral turns and the ends reef knotted.
1758. A sling to which a tackle is to be hooked. Selvagee slings
and straps are easier on spars and rigging than corded rope, besides
being less liable to slip.
1759. A Strap or Bale Sling Hitch to mast and rigging. This is
much used at sea. Nares states, “If steadied until under proper strain
may be lifted.” Number 1757 would, on the whole, seem
1760. A single strap for a well pipe.
1761. A single strap to a telephone pole.
1762. A double strap for hoisting a spar or hooking a tackle.
any weigr
preferable
[ 299 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
768
m o
n 1 1
1763. A double strap or sling for hoisting a spar at middle length.
One bight is rove through the other and a tackle is hooked to the
single bight.
1764. A Cross-Lashed Sling is also to be used in the middle of a
spar; the two bights are clapped together and hooked to a tackle
block.
1765. A stopper , in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, pro-
vided the means of making fast a hemp cable, when a ship rode at
anchor, since a cable was too large for belaying in the ordinary way.
At an earlier period, when ships were smaller, cables were made fast
to the foremast, with seized turns and hitches.
The deck stopper is a piece of deck furniture that apparently has
not changed since it first appeared. On large naval vessels cable-laid
rope has at times been used with a Spritsail Sheet Knot in the end.
But as a rule deck stoppers were of hawser-laid rope and either a
Stopper Knot or else a Double Wall Knot was tied in the end. A
lanyard half the circumference of the stopper was spliced around
the neck, and the lower end was hooked or shackled to a ring on the
deck. The average deck stopper was five or six feet long, but on
naval vessels they sometimes reached a length of twelve feet. The
length of the lanyard depended on the size of the cable. Four or five
turns were taken around both stopper and cable close to the knot,
and after that four rounds of “dogging,” with an ample length left
over for stopping, were allowed.
1766. The ordinary Single Ring Stopper. These automatically
became Deck, Wing, Hatchway, or Bitt Stoppers, according to
where they were made fast.
1767. The Double Ring Stopper.
1768. A Ring Stopper that w as shown by Gower.
1769. A Ring Stopper given by Knight for use with a wire
hawser.
1770. A nipper secures the cable to the messenger , which is a con-
tinuous belt of smaller cable half the circumference of the cable itself,
passing around two capstans, one forward, the other near the main-
mast. The capstans and messenger provide the means of heaving in
the cable.
The cable was lashed to the messenger with nippers, which were
attended by “nipper boys,” while the cable was being hove in. The
nipper boys walked aft, holding the ends in place, and after they
were untied brought them forward again for another nip. The illus-
tration shows two ways of passing the nippers.
1771. A small chain with a ring attached to a tackle is used on a
rigging table for heaving on the strands of large wire rigging while
splicing.
1772. The Shiver Hitch is shown by Lever in 1808. It was used
in the Merchant Marine for fastening a jig tackle to a cable when
getting up anchor. Either a Single Hitch or a round turn and hitch
were used. The Navy did not employ tackles for the purpose, having
plenty of hands for manning the capstans and nippers.
[ 3 °° 1
CHAPTER 23: HITCHES TO STAKE AND POST,
PILE AND BOLLARD
The f work was hard an ' the wages low ,
( Leave ' er , Johnny, leave 'er!)
The grub was bad, an ' the voy'ge was slow,
( Leave 'er, Johnny , leave ' er .)
OA> ’ er fast, an' Stow yer gear ,
( Leave 'er, Johnny, leave 'er!)
An' tic 'er up to the bloomin' pier,
It's time for us to leave 'er!
Old Shanty
About the only time a sailor “ties” is when, his voyage over, he
“ties up” to the wharf, but, once arrived there, he mav even go so
far as to “tie up for the winter.” A sailor speaks of “tying a knot in
the devil’s tail” when he has completed a difficult job to his own sat-
isfaction. In fact the expression to tic always seems to carry with it
a note of conclusion or finality.
Piles and bollards are the usual furniture of the wharf. Stakes are
commonly associated with tents, fences and guy ropes.
The word post does not at first appear to have much nautical
flavor, but Falconer, in his Dictionary of the Marine (1769), under
Hitches, speaks of posts and does not mention either piles or bollards.
Bollards may be either double or single and so may bitts. Bitts and
stanchions are generally rectangular in cross section. They are dis-
cussed further in Chapters 20 and 27.
The commonest of all Post Hitches is undoubtedly the Clove
Hitch. It is the one almost universally used on tent stakes. But the
sailor himself seldom employs it as a hitch.
[301 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
The importance of the Clove Hitch as a Stake Hitch rests largely
upon the ease, celerity and variety of the ways in which it may be
formed. It can be tied with either one hand or two, picked with one
hand off the deck or out of the air, as easily by night as by day; but,
except as a Crossing Knot, there is a better holding knot for about
every purpose to which the Clove Hitch can be put. Nevertheless
the Clove Hitch is a very important knot and the most used of all
Post Hitches. At sea it is sometimes tied as a hitch in the ends of
seizings, and ashore it is the nearest thing there is to a general utility
hitch. It is by no means secure, but it is the quickest hitch there is to
tie, and one of the easiest to remember.
Besides the several methods of tying given on the following page,
there are a number of additional ways shown among the tricks and
puzzles on pages 408 and 409.
1773. The Clove Hitch was mentioned by Falconer in 1769.
“Tom Bowling,” in 1866, called it the Builder’s Knot. It consists of
two Single Hitches, the second one superimposed over the first. It
is commonly tied in hand and then dropped over a post.
1774. A quick 'way of tying the Clove Hitch in medium-weight
rope is here shown. With the back of the left hand and the palm of
the right hand uppermost, grasp the rope with the two hands several
feet apart. Rotate each hand one half turn as indicated by the arrows
and clap the knuckles of the right hand into the palm of the left
hand. Transfer the upper hitch into the grasp of the left hand and
drop the knot over a post.
1775. To make the hitch directly over a post while pulling on the
rope: Pull with the left hand and impart a right twist with the right
hand, which will cause the bight between the two hands to form a
Single Hitch. This is dropped over the post while the left hand still
holds the standing part of the rope taut. A second hitch is then added
in the same way.
1776. To tie around a tall post: Where the post or pole is too tall
for dropping hitches over the top, there is but one way to tie the
knot. Make a turn with the end below the standing part, then put a
hitch above by reeving the end without reversing the direction of
the turns.
1777. A one-hand method of casting a Clove Hitch directly over
the post. It is accomplished with a half turn of the right arm, which
is repeated in adding the second hitch.
1778. The Steamboat Hitch is the quickest and most convenient
way that I know of tying the Clove Hitch in medium- or heavy-
weight rope. It was first shown to me by E. E. du Pont, who had seen
it tied on a Chesapeake Bay steamer. H. W. Riley, in a Cornell Agri-
cultural School knot bulletin, calls this the “Circus method .”
The Clove Hitch does not draw up snugly when pull is exerted
on one end only and there is almost always an initial slip that cannot
be gauged with certainty. The hitch may be unwound with a rotat-
ing pull in one direction, particularly if it is tied to a square post and
the rope is stiff.
1779. This shows the sailor's trick of pricking up a Clove Hitch
from deck , employing one hand only. Between the second and third
diagrams the loop is laid to the left across the lower part of the rope
and the hand grasps the two parts pictured. With a little practice
this may be done with a bale hook instead of the hand (#2544).
Other ways of tying the Clove Hitch are given in Chapter 33,
HITCHES TO STAKE AND POST, PILE AND BOLLARD
“Tricks and Puzzles/’ The knot is also discussed in Chapter 15,
“Crossing Knots,” which is its most distinctive use, and also among
the Binding Knots of Chapter 16.
1780. The Seized Half Hitch is mentioned by Falconer in 1769.
Formerly the knot was used much more than at present; in fact the
use of seizings and stoppings, except by riggers, has become infre-
quent. But if an eye is needed in very large rope, there is nothing
better than this. A hitch is made around the standing part of the
rope with its own end and then is drawn up snug and either stopped
or seized.
1781. Two Half Hitches is mentioned by Steel in 1794. An ex-
peditious way in which to tie the knot to a post is to first form a loose
Granny Knot, leaving a long end. As the ship swings she will take
up the slack and the Granny will capsize into Two Half Hitches.
Warps on coastwise ships, however, are generally fitted with spliced
eyes to drop over piles and bollards, but deep-sea sailing craft usu-
ally keep the ends of their hawsers clear.
“Two half hitches will never slip”— Admiral Luce.
“Two half hitches saved a Queen’s Ship”— Anonymous.
“Three half hitches are more than a King’s Yacht wants”— Admiral
Smyth.
1782. If a ship is to remain tied up for several days. Two Half
Hitches, seized, is preferable to #1780.
1783. In making small craft fast to a wharf the Bowline is some-
times tied as a hitch. Two loose Half Hitches are made and well
separated. The one closest to the post is then capsized by pulling
sufficiently to straighten out the turns, as shown by the arrows in
#1781. The end is then tucked, as shown by the arrows in the center
diagram, to form a Left-Hand Bowline (#1034%)'
1784. The Round Turn and Two Half Hitches is mentioned by
Steel in 1794. It should be used when the object to be tied to is of
small diameter, since the second turn dissipates the wear. The hitch
is seized often but not invariably.
1785. The Round Turn and Slipped Half Hitch is an excellent
temporary Stake Hitch.
1786. Reversed Half Hitches bears the same relation to a Cow
Hitch that Two Half Hitches bears to a Clove Hitch. The same
knot formation is either tied around its own standing part, which
forms Reversed Half Hitches, or around another object, which
makes the Cow Hitch. The knot is often seen on tent stakes and is
more easily untied than Two Half Hitches.
1787. A Right-Hand Bowline is formed when Reversed Half
Hitches are put around a stake and then are capsized and further
tucked in a manner similar to #1782.
1788. A Bowline may be tied quickly in still another way. Form
the standing part into a Marlingspike Hitch and reeve the end as
indicated by the arrow. Adjust the loop to the desired size, then pull
the hitch taut. The end of the rope is at once swallowed, and a Bow-
line Knot is formed.
1789. The Marlingspike Hitch, given by Dana in 1841, has
sometimes been called, in magazine articles, “the Boat Knot” and is
said to be used over a stake for tying up. If this spills, it becomes the
ordinary Noose Hitch shown as #1803, a knot which is seldom al-
lowed to approach salt water.
[ 303 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1790. A safe Stake Hitch of simple construction that is distantly
related to the Timber Hitch (#1665), consists of a Single Hitch
around the stake and a twisted loop in the end, which is dropped
over the top of the stake.
1791. “Mooring Hitch” appears to be a fairly old name for the
Magnus or Rolling Hitch when made fast to a post. The merit of
the hitch is that, when snugly applied, it will not slip doavn the post.
Anyone who has found himself at full tide, after a hard day’s fishing,
with his painter fast to a stake four or five feet below high-water
mark, will be inspired to learn this knot. First make a round turn
below the standing part of the rope and then add a Single Hitch
above it.
1792. Several snubbing turns are taken with a warp around a pile
and the headway of a ship is gradually checked before the warp is
made fast.
1793. Seized round turns . When the ship has been brought to a
standstill, if the hawser is a large one, the end may be merely seized
or stopped to the standing part.
1794. Round turns hitched . A medium-sized hawser, or one that
is pliant, is generally half hitched before seizing.
1795. The Backhanded Mooring Hitch. A single turn is first made
around the post. When all headway is checked, a flake from the right
is dragged forward under the standing part and turned over the top
of the post without twisting it. The first left-hand bight is next lifted
directly over the post without turning it. Then the next right-hand
bight is dragged under the standing part and turned over the post
as before. Alternate with left- and right-hand bights until the cable
is exhausted, then stop the end to the standing part. It may take
several hands to do this in very heavy stuff.
1796. The Wet Weather Hitch is a circus-tent Stake Hitch
that has already been described in Chapter 2. A Single Hitch is first
taken around the post, several hands haul in the slack while one man,
at the end, holds what is given. The end is backed around the stake
and a Slipped Half Hitch is added. If the rope shrinks in the rain
one man can slack away and make fast alone.
1797. The Backhanded Hitch is a sailor’s knot very similar to the
circus hitch just shown. Instead of the Slipped Half Hitch, Two
Half Hitches completes the knot. This is easily held and made fast
at the exact point where the hawser is checked.
1798. The Awning Knot is an uncompleted Midshipman’s Hitch
(#1799). The second turn is carefully jammed so that the knot will
hold until jerked or jarred, when it will spill instantly. It is used in
roping off sections of decks and as a temporary tent Stake Hitch
on marquees, etc.
1799. The Midshipman’s Hitch is the same as the foregoing with
the addition of a Half Hitch. It is a fixed knot that holds well and
has a variety of uses.
1800. The Adjustable Hitch is based on the Magnus or Rolling
Hitch and is closely related to the Midshipman’s Knot, the differ-
ence being in the arrangement of the second turn. If the concluding
hitch is reversed there will be less tendency to twist. Slide the knot
either way and it should remain without rendering.
304 ]
HITCHES TO STAKE AND POST, PILE AND BOLLARD
1801, The ordinary commercial stake adjustment serves the pur-
pose no better than the Adjustable Hitch and is much more trouble
to pack on a camping trip.
1802. The Cow Hitch differs from the Strap or Bale Sling
Hitch in that the pull is on one part only and the knot is tied in the
end instead of in the bight. The form, however, is the same; it is the
hitch by which farmers stake out their cows to nibble favored grass
in restricted places. It is also the knot by which the ends of rigging
lanyards are secured. Other names for it are Lanyard Hitch, Dead-
eye Hitch and Stake Hitch. But the sailor himself is more apt to call
it Cow Hitch.
1803. The Noose Hitch or Farmer’s Hitch. A much-used but
poor fastening unsuited to a post since it jams and is difficult to untie.
1804. The Halter Hitch is based on the preceding knot but the
tuck is made with a bight instead of the end. After the hitch has
been carefully drawn up the end is dropped loosely through the final
bight so that the knot cannot spill accidentally.
1805. A Half Hitched Clove Hitch. Although seldom men-
tioned, this hitch is not infrequently seen even on shipboard and is
by no means a bad one. It is much used by cartmen. The Half
Hitch makes the basic Clove Hitch secure.
1806. A Farm Hitch for a halter: An Open Overhand Knot is
tied some distance from the end. The end is passed around the small
of a post or a rail and is rove through the knot and drawn snug. The
Overhand Knot is pulled tight and a Slip Knot (#529) is added
close to the original knot.
1807. The Slipped Buntline Hitch is used both for hitching
horses and for tying up small boats.
1808. Many of the Snug Hitches shown in Chapter 21 are suit-
able Post Hitches. This illustrates the Picket-Line Hitch with the
end slipped.
1809. A High Post Hitch. Sometimes it is necessary to tie a boat
to a pile or post where the drop of the tide is considerable. It will be
found convenient to make fast with a Slip Knot and to lead a long
end back to the boat. After you have returned to your boat and got
all your gear stowed, have your oars or outboard motor in readiness
and then cast off by hauling on the end of your painter, which slips
the hitch. The rope is hauled back into the boat by pulling on the
standing part after it has been untwisted.
1810. A High Post Hitch tied in the bight . This is a great con-
venience on occasion. Middle the rope, pass the bight around the
post and lay it around the two standing parts, then tuck a bight from
the end part as indicated by the arrow. When the end is pulled the
rope is drawn back into the boat.
1811. For temporary tying to a tall wharf, nothing can be more
convenient than the Slippery Hitch.
1812. A Single Hitch to a post top. If tied in rope of proper size,
texture, pliability and stretch, this is surprisingly secure until the
rope is slacked off. A groove across the post top will render it doubly
secure. It is probably a safer knot than #218 of Chapter 2 .
1813. A Clothesline Hitch to a post that has a hole bored
through the top.
[ 305 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
i 8 i 8
1814. A Clove Hitch is used in tying the bight of a line to a pile.
Sometimes it jams, but not often.
1815. A Pile Hitch may be easily and quickly tied either in the
end or bight of a heavy line. It is remarkably secure and is easy to
cast off when the left bight has been loosened by a single well-aimed
kick. Recommended for medium and heavy lines.
To tie: Lead a loop from either the end or center of a line once
around the post from either direction and under the standing part,
then drop the loop over the post.
To remove: When tied in the bight, slack off the line and force
the left bight to the left and then lift the loop from the pile, or, if
tied in the end, withdraw the end from under the bight, after which
the knot may be unwound.
1816. A Bight Hitch is often required when tying up to a wharf
with a single long line. This knot, the form of which is the same as
a Cow Hitch, is made by dropping two opposite Single Hitches
over the post. It will never bind or jam and requires little length of
rope but, like all the other Bight Hitches so far given, it must be
slackened before it can be removed.
1817. If a Bight Hitch is wanted that may be untied without
slacking off the line, which is sometimes difficult to do, particularly
in the swift-flowing water of a river or canal, start as if to tie a Cow
Hitch but, instead of tucking under at the final turn, merely seize
the loop as pictured. To untie, cut the seizing.
1818. A Crossing Hitch is required on posts in staking out lines
with which to guide the populace at circuses, inaugurations and
similar occasions. Proceed along a line of stakes, twisting one bight
at a time and dropping it over the head of a stake. Draw the hitch
taut by first pulling the end backward and then forward; it will as-
sume the form shown in the lower drawing.
1819. In hauling out a boat or in moving a building it is often nec-
essary to anchor the standing end of a rope or tackle with a series of
stakes. Large drills or crowbars may be used for the purpose. The
stakes are driven at such an angle that a line connecting the top of
the forward stake with the base of the next stake will be approxi-
mately at right angles to both. A number of turns of a short rope
are hauled hand-taut between the two stakes and stout sticks are
introduced in the center of these straps. The sticks are twisted until
the straps are taut and then the lower end of each stick is driven into
the ground.
1820. If large wooden stakes are used, the straps can generally be
tightened sufficiently with a few frapping turns, requiring no twist-
ing. Sometimes a long rope made fast to the base of the forward stake
is wound to the top ana then led to the base of the next stake with
a few turns, in which case no individual straps are needed. The bot-
tom turns may have frapping turns added or they may be twisted
as # 1819 .
[ 3° 6 1
vs*
CHAPTER 24: RING HITCHES
m
At the Head of the Shanke there is a Hole called an Eye , and in it is
a Ring . ... To bend the Cable to the Anchor , is to make it fast to
the Ring.
Captaine John Smith (“Sometimes Govemour of Virginia
and Admirall of New England”): A Sea Grammar , 1627
A ring is one of the most common of objects to which ropes are
made fast. This is true both at sea and ashore.
Since the diameter of the material of which a ring is made is usu-
ally smaller than the rope itself, the hitch used should if possible be
passed through the ring twice in order to divide the strain and wear.
Also, unless the hitch is to be a temporary affair, either the ring
or the rope itself should be parceled if there is opportunity. Anchor
rings are either puddinged, served or parceled, and ringbolts for the
cable stoppers are either ringbolt hitched or else served over— prac-
tices which are described in the last two chapters of this book.
Ashore, where rope is often used that is much larger than the task
requires, as is the case with a halter, it is customary to reeve the rope
but once through the ring. But no matter what the purpose of the
hitch or the size of the rope used, it is better to reeve it twice when
there is opportunity.
Horses are commonly “hitched” to rings and anything that is sus-
pended from a ceiling is apt to be fastened either to a ring or to a
hook.
Floats and wharfs are equipped with rings for tying up small boats.
On shipboard rings are found everywhere, but aloft they are more
apt to be eyebolts than hinged rings. Lashings of various descriptions
are secured to rings.
Lashings are discussed in Chapter 28, and ring stoppers are to be
found on page 300.
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[ 307 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1821. The Half Hitch. In a storage room there is no better means
of hanging stores to remove them from mice, squirrels and other
vermin than the Half Hitch; with the nip at the top, with the end
passed back through the ring as shown, there is little danger of
slipping. This knot will serve many purposes well, but it should
never be disturbed while at work.
1822. The Slipped Half Hitch. A convenient knot for occasional
use. The pull on the standing part should be steady and in a direction
that is against the nip of the knot, which should always be at the top
as pictured. The knot is seen frequently on boat landings tied in a
painter, but this is hardly legitimate use unless the occasion is very
temporary indeed.
1823. A Slipped Half Hitch, with the end tucked, is preferable
to the last knot.
1824. A Figure-Eight Knot may be slipped either once or twice;
the left diagram shows one bight slipped and the right diagram shows
two. The center diagram shows how they are constructed.
1825. The Noose Hitch is one of the most used of all hitches. It
is weak and apt to jam, and is not entirely reliable. Nevertheless it
is much used by teamsters and truckmen and is found on the farm,
although not so much as formerly. Farmers read and profit from
school, college, government and state agricultural bulletins, and in
late years the subject of knots has received considerable attention in
these publications. Moreover the farmer is the most interested of
workmen and anything of a mechanical nature generally appeals to
him. But unlike the rigger, the sailor, the sailmaker and the weaver,
knots are incidental to his labor, so that it is entirely possible for an
indifferent knot tier to become a good farmer, although he will be
handicapped.
1826. The Halter Hitch is based on the last knot. It is the same
formation but it is slipped, and the end is stuck through the slipped
bight. The knot is used the world over for “hitching” horses. To
untie: Remove the end from the loose bight and pull on the end
smartly.
1827. The Chain Slipknot. If the end is very long a practical
Slipknot may be made by adding a Chain Sinnet (#2868) to the
end. This is done by passing successive bights each through the
previous one as shown in the right diagram #1826. When the end is
pulled the whole chain ravels, or unravels.
1828. The Manger Hitch must have been designed originally as
a pacifier for a cow that slobbered. I found it in rural Delaware. A
wet knot is very hard to untie, but this one is practically jamproof.
However, halters in cow barns are about as common nowadays as
buttoned shoes in night clubs.
1829. A knot from Diderot’s Encyclopedia of 1762. It was given
as a hitch for loom harness.
1830. A Slipknot for passing a lizard. This is given in Knight’s
Seamanship of 1901 and was part of the gear used in crossing a yard
after it was sent aloft.
1831. The Capstan Knot. Both name and knot are from Tom
Bowling, and it is given without explanation of its purposes. The knot
has one interesting feature: it may be slid to any point on the stand-
ing part and there “locked” by pulling smartly on the end.
[ 308 ]
RING HITCHES
1832, 1833. These two Hammock Hitches were found on “Cape
Ann hammocks/’ one from Portland and one from New Bedford.
The Cape Ann hammock is much older than the present trade name
suggests. I have seen a number of them that were made of homespun.
The knots shown are employed in tying the nettles to the eyelet
holes.
1834. The Round Turn and Half Hitch is given by Steel as the
proper knot for bending to a stream anchor.
1835. A Round Turn and Two Half Hitches is given by both
Biddlecomb and Luce as an Anchor Bend. Although often used
without stopping, it is better to add one as it prevents jamming.
1836. Two Round Turns and Two Half Hitches is a very old
and strong hitch that will never jam. Under the name Rolling
Hitch it is described by Falconer in 1769.
1837. The Round Turn and Reversed Hitches holds about as
well as the Round Turn and Two Half Hitches and is easier to
untie.
1838. The Round Turn and Buntline Hitch is snugger than
either Two Half Hitches or Reversed Hitches; for that reason it
is preferred for buntlines and clew lines where the slatting of the
sails tends to loosen the knot.
1839. The Lobster Buoy Hitch holds about as well as #1838 and
is more easily opened.
1840. The Fisherman’s Bend consists of a round turn with a hitch
through the turns and customarily a second hitch that is added
around the standing part. The knot is often illustrated without the
second hitch but is seldom tied in that way. Some find it handier to
tie the knot with overhand turns instead of underhand turns as shown
here.
1841. The Fisherman’s Bend, also called the Anchor Bend, is one
of the strongest of hitches. Steel gives it as the proper bend for a
kedge anchor. There is no better Anchor Bend but in stiff, heavy
cable it is not so easily applied as the Round Turn and Two Half
Hitches.
1842. The Fisherman’s Bend and Bowline Knot is probably the
most practical Anchor Bend for small craft with anchor warps unde*
three inches in circumference. Beyond this point the cables are gen-
erally of chain.
1843. An Anchor- Bend from a Handbook of Boat Sailing
(Anonymous, London, 1904). A compact knot that is interestingly
related to the Fisherman’s Bend.
1844. The Outside Clinch is bent to the bower anchor , according
to Biddlecombe. The British Admiralty Manual of Seamanship states
that it is used on “any rope you wish to let go smartly.” The name
Clinch is given by Boteler in 1685 and the Outside Clinch is first
mentioned by Steel in 1 794.
1845. The Inside Clinch is also mentioned by Steel (1794) and
is pictured by Roding in 1795. Steel gives the Inside Clinch for
bending to a bower anchor. The knot is further used to secure bunt-
lines to the foot of a sail, and to attach bowline bridles to the cringles.
It is not so easily cast off as the Outside Clinch, but is safer.
309 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1846. The Bowline Knot is often tied in a painter to the ring of a
float. Sometimes where there is considerable tide the painter is rove
through a ring on a wharf, led back to the boat and tied in a Bowline
close to deck. In this way it is not necessary to cast off until ready
to pull away.
The Round T urn and Bowline is a very handy Anchor Bend for
a small boat.
1847. The Buntline Hitch is ordinarily tied with one turn only
through a cringle or eyelet. It is used to bend a buntline to the foot
of a square sail.
1848. The Portuguese Bowline. I first saw this knot used as an
Anchor Bend in the quahog fleet at the “Portagee Navy Yard” in
New Bedford. It is shown by Bandeira ( Tratado de Apparelho do
Navio y Lisboa, 1896). Felix Riesenberg, in his Standard Seamanship,
calls it “French Bowline” and points out that it makes an excellent
boatswain’s chair, with one loop serving as sea", the other as back.
It must be drawn up very carefully and snugly. The way of tying
the knot in hand is given among the Double Loop Knots (#1072).
1849. This Anchor Hitch, based on the Portuguese Bowline, is
tied with a single pass.
1850. Another hitch with a double bearing that requires only a
single pass.
1851. The Backhanded Hitch. There are several hitches bearing
this name. This one requires only a single pass through the ring but
it must be seized or stopped, otherwise it tends to capsize.
1852. A Backhanded Hitch that does not require stopping.
1853. A Backhanded Hitch and Bowline. A good single-pass
hitch, with a double bearing. Tuck a bight up through the ring and
then draw the end through the bight and add the Bowline.
1854. The Awning Knot is an incomplete Midshipman’s Hitch.
Make a loop through the ring. Pull the rope taut and take a round
turn inside the loop and jam the second turn hard inside the first.
I have seen this used on shipboard in roping off the passengers who
had surrendered their tickets before the ship was docked. It is also
used on awnings, as its name indicates, and as a temporary tent
Stake Hitch. The hitch is spilled by jerking or jarring the rope.
1855. The Midshipman’s Hitch is the same as the last knot with
the end half hitched or else dogged and seized. This is an exception-
ally practical knot much used about ship. Properly tied, it does not
slip or jam.
1856. The Rolling Hitch may be used on a ring by reeving the
end of the rope through the ring and then bending the hitch to its
own standing part. The advantage of this over the last knot is that it
is easily adjustable. It may be slid by hand either to lengthen or
shorten the rope but, left alone, it stays where it is.
[ 310 ]
RING HITCHES
1857. If the Half Hitch is reversed most of the torsion is elimi-
nated and there is little tendency for the knot to twist.
1858. The Long Running Eye or Hitch is the common rigger’s
method of making fast to eyebolts on spars aloft. A Long Eye, spliced
in the end of the line, admits the passing of a whole coil at one thrust.
Short Eye Splices are not so good for this purpose as they require
reeving the full length of the line through the eye.
1859. The Ring Hitch and Tag Knot are of the same formation
as the Bale Sling Hitch (#1694) ^ ut are not necessarily tied in a
wreath. This knot is found on rings and tags, as well as on key and
curtain rings.
1860. The Lead Line or Strap Hitch. Either a Long Eye (as in
a lead line) or a long bight as in the fall of a Spanish burton, is
passed through the eye or ring; then the lead, hook or other object
is passed through the bight and the line is drawn up. Note that the
knots already described on this page, although similar in form, are
tied in individual ways.
1861. A more transient fastening to a ring is made as described for
the Long Running Hitch (#1858) by employing a Bowline Knot
instead of an Eye Splice.
1862. A Ring Hitch may be doubled without removal from the
ring by drawing and twisting a bight to the right, as shown in the left
drawing, then reeving the ring through the bight in the direction
indicated. This may be tied to a key or watch.
1863. The next two drawings on this page show two ways in
which the number of parts having a bearing on a ring may be in-
creased without removing the ring. I became interested in the prob-
lem when I found that a watch guard, which I prized, was showing
signs of wear. To tie: Reeve the guard through the ring from the
back and pass the end behind the standing part as indicated by the
arrow.
1864. Arrange the loop that passes through the ring in the form
shown and then reeve the end of the guard once as indicated by the
arrow.
1865. If the loop of the guard is too long for the purpose, a deco-
rative Lanyard Knot may be added while the loop is still on the
ring. Extend the loop as shown and twist the end one half turn to the
right. Stick the end of the guard in the direction of the arrow down-
ward through the loop that was just formed. Arrange the knot so
that the loop is kept long. Turn the apparatus over and repeat a
second time exactly as before, except of course on the other side.
Arrange the knot at the proper length and work snug. This is the
same knot as Bend $ 1414.
[311 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1866. The Sampan Hitch is used very generally throughout the
East for tying up river boats, according to Captain E. H. Pentecost,
who first showed me the knot.
The end of the painter, after passing through the ring, is led back
to deck. The hitch is completed by sticking successive loops. It is
instantly spilled from deck by a smart pull on the end of the line.
1867. A Toggled Bight is sometimes labeled a Boat Knot by un-
nautical authorities but it does not appear suitable for a Boat Hitch.
For hurried casting off, however, nothing is quicker than a toggle.
1868. The Teamster’s Hitch is used when lashing a load to a
truck or wagon. A Long Overhand Loop is tied, long enough so
that after sticking the bight through a ring the whole coil may be
rove through the bight. If the truck is fitted with hooks, the Ring
Hitch is tied in hand without any necessity for reeving. The end of
the loop is folded back against the standing part and the hook stuck
through the knot that is formed.
1869. A semipermanent loop sometimes used on the standing part
of a boat lashing consists of a Clove Hitch with the end tucked
twice through the lay. The end is sometimes stopped.
1870. The common way of securing a leather strap to a ring is to
make a lengthwise slit in the strap near the end and to pass the unslit
end through the ring and then through the slit.
1871. The Latigo, Cinch or Girth Knot which secures an Amer-
ican saddle to a horse’s back is added to the cinch strap or latigo
after it has been passed several times through the two rings of the
saddle and girth. The cinch strap is tightened and then a Cow Hitch
tied to the upper or saddle ring. The grain side of the strap is at all
times on the outside of the turns.
The same knot is sometimes made on a man’s “sport” belt, and
I have seen it tied in the rattlesnake-skin band on a ten-gallon hat.
1872. This Strap Hitch to a ring has already been shown in de-
tail as #1705 and # 1706 . The knot is started as in the first two figures
and attached to the ring as in the last.
1873. To tie up to a ringbolt on a wharf when the tide is dropping.
It is sometimes difficult to free the whole length of a painter from
a ring. If the painter is long this knot will be found most conven-
ient. Reeve a bight through the ring and bring it down to the boat
just above deck. Put a Single Hitch with the standing part around
the downhanging loop or bight, just as you would start a Sheep-
shank Knot. Then reeve a bight from the loose end of the painter
as shown in the second drawing. By pulling on the end the whole
knot is easily spilled and withdrawn.
1874. Another knot for the same purpose may be tied either
close to the ring or near the deck, and is also spilled by pulling on
the end. Start as a Bowline with a Bight. Arrange the bight as in
the middle diagram and add a Slip Loop.
[312]
CHAPTER 25: HOOKS, BECKETS, AND
TOGGLES
A Black wall hitch is used with a lanyard in setting up rigging, where
the end of your lanyard is not long enough to form a catspaw; but a
strap and toggle is preferable to both.
William N. Brady: The Kedge Anchor , 1841
A good Hook Hitch should tie simply and spill the instant it is
removed from the hook, without requiring any loosening.
For the bight of a slings, a Double Cat’s-Paw leaves nothing to be
desired. But none of the well-known Single Hitches are wholly
trustworthy. The Blackwall Hitch fills some of the requirements
but is prone to slip. The Bill Hitch is recommended by the British
Admiralty Manual of Seamanship but is not safe in small rope if
tied to a large hook. The Marlingspike Hitch appears to be about
the best of the lot.
In an attempt to find a satisfactory Single Hook Hitch, #1886
was evolved. This appears to have certain advantages over the others.
It ties and casts off easily and holds well when fast to a large hook.
It should not be tied, however, in a large rope that overflows the
hook.
A becket may be any one of a number of small objects to which
ropes are secured. The thimble on a block to which the standing end
of the fall is spliced, the hook of the block itself, or the eye in a
pendant to which the block is hooked are, all three of them, beckets .
Any Eye Splice is a becket, and a Becket Hitch is the knot that
commonly is made fast to an Eye Splice. The rope handle of a sea
chest is also called a becket.
Any short rope that is employed for securing objects on shipboard
is termed a becket, provided it has an eye in one end. Generally it
has a Knob Knot or toggle in the other end, to button into the eye.
(See #679.)
Eire
KECK-
BACK.
BILL
[3i3 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
»8
17
1875. The Blackwall Hitch is given by Steel in 1794. It is used
in setting up rigging when the lanyard is short, but is never quite safe
unless the rope is large enough to nearly fill the mouth of the hook.
It should never be tied to a cargo block.
1876. The Double Blackwall Hitch has one more turn and is
often recommended as preferable to the former knot. It appears,
however, to be even less reliable. The second turn is sometimes
jammed below the first in the manner of the Awning Knot, but this
appears to be no improvement.
1877. The Half Hitch, tied with the nip at the top with the end
leading back through the hook, is secure if it is carefully adjusted
before each fresh hoist.
1878. The Stunner Hitch is somewhat similar to the common
Double Blackwall Hitch but the second turn is taken above the
eye of the hook. Bushell, Knight and other nautical authorities
ascribe this name, but it is also called Double Blackwall Hitch,
the true Double Blackwall Hitch being seldom used. This one
appears to be no better than #1876.
1879. The Bill Hitch is the same form as the Becket Hitch and
is sometimes called by that name. It is secure if the rope fills the hook
snugly. It may be made by tying a Marlingspike Hitch and then
lifting the bight at the back so that it encompasses both the bill and
neck of the hook.
1880. The Marlingspike Hitch “is used for the hook of a tackle,
to any rope where a smart pull is required,” according to the Manual
of the Sea (1891).
If tied loosely, the Marlingspike Hitch will generally draw up to
have a double bearing. In this form it is secure and easy to loosen.
1881. The Marlingspike Hitch will also on occasion take the
form of the Farmer’s Noose Hitch (# 1825). In this form it is given
in the French Encyclopedie Methodique Marine , of 1783 by Vial
du Clairbois. It may be formed by extending the loop of the Mar-
lingspike Hitch, or it may be tied directly as pictured. Nares says,
“This is used to hook an up and down tackle to a luff tackle fall.”
1882. The Bowline with a Bight is employed “for heavy pulls on
the ends of rigging Luffs,” according to Luce and Ward (Seaman-
ship, 1884). The second diagram shows the knot turned “end for
end” and suspended from a hook.
1883. A Round Turn and Two Half Hitches. Any Hook Hitch
with a double bearing is stronger than one that passes through the
hook but once.
1884. A Rolling Hitch is less apt to jam than the former knot
and is exceptionally strong.
1885. The Fisherman’s Bend is strong and will not jam. These
last three hitches are found on hooks in running rigging when it is
not necessary for them to spill on removal, and where they are al-
ways moused.
1886. This is the Single Hook Hitch mentioned on page 313 (see
also Pile Hitch, #1815). lb tie: Double back the end and twist it with
the lay. Lay the doubled rope through the hook from front to back,
bring it around the back of the hook and drop the loop over the bill of
the hook. Pull taut and crowd all parts well down into the mouth of
the hook.
1887. The Clove Hitch is sometimes used for a Hook Hitch.
Although it is apt to have an initial slip it is convenient.
[ 314 1
HOOKS, BECKETS, AND TOGGLES
1888. The Single Cat’s-Paw. After winding, as pictured, the two
ends of the coil should be twisted in opposite directions and hooked
to the cargo block.
1889. The Cow Hitch is sometimes found on a hook. If used at
all, the end should be left long.
1890. The Ring Hitch is similar in form to the Cow Hitch. It
may be tied in slings and straps, where it will serve well, as both
parts are pulled on equally.
1891. The Cat’s-Paw is the common Hook Hitch for slings. It is
the same basic form as the Bale Sling Hitch but has additional
twists. Brady says “two or three altogether,” and Steel, who men-
tioned the name in 1794, says “three twists.” It is the best of all Sling
Hitches and is often recommended for a slippery rope. But no hitch
can slip when tied in a slings since it has no ends. All that is
needed is a hitch that cannot jam, and this requirement the Cat’s-
Paw fills admirably. The knot spills instantly when removed from
the hook. It is the hitch always used for heavy lifts. Occasionally
it has been called the Racking Hitch, being confused with the knot
that follows (#1892), which nowadays is seldom seen.
To tie the Cat’s-Paw in cargo slings: Grasp two bights and hold
them well apart. Twist three full turns with both hands (away from
you), then clap the bights together and place them over the hook.
1892. The Racking Hitch is similar to the Cat’s-Paw, the differ-
ence being that the two bights are twisted in opposite directions.
Steel (1794) says that the Racking Hitch is used for shortening
slings, a purpose which the Cat’s-Paw also serves.
1893. Wherever any Hook Hitch is to be used for a series of lifts,
or the same load is to be slacked away and relifted, the hook should
be moused. Middle a short piece of marline, take a number of turns
around the shank and bill of the hook. Cross the two ends of mar-
line at the center and serve each end a short distance away from each
other, then add riding turns back again to the center and square
knot the two ends together.
1894. To shorten slings. A method shown to me by Captain Dan-
iel F. Mullins. After a Bale Hitch has been put around the object
to be lifted, extend the slack in two long equal bights. Half knot
the two bights and clap them together over the hook.
1895. The Crow’s-Foot serves a similar purpose. After the knot is
formed the two loops may be pulled out to any required length to
take up the superfluous material.
1896. A selvage e strap and toggle is considered the best way of
hooking to a lanyard in setting up rigging. The method does not
injure the lanyard, which, if old, has lost much of its pliancy.
1897. A hook and eye . A common way of hooking a block to a
pendant. The hook should be moused.
1898. Hook and Stopper Knot. I have seen the traces or tug ropes
in horse harness so fitted, and also a hammock slung by similar
means.
1899. This method of lashing a hook block to a shroud is given
by Admiral Nares. The standing end of a single strap takes a round
turn down the lay of the shroud. Then the shank of the hook is
seized with five or six ground turns and three or four riders, and the
end is laid up the rope and square knotted to the standing end.
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1900. Any hitch that is attached to an Eye Splice becomes a
Becket Hitch, but this is the Becket Hitch, proper. In form it is
similar to the Sheet Bend. But the end is bent to an eye instead of
a loop. The name Becket Hitch was applied by Nares in i860.
1901. The Swab Hitch is of similar construction. Customarily a
dog's point is spliced in the end of a swab lanyard so that the end
of the Swab Hitch may be short. This adds greatly to the security
of the hitch. When not in use, lanyards are removed and swabs are
often suspended to dry along the end of the mainstay at the fore-
castle head. New swabs are frequently four to six feet long. On small
craft the lanyards may be long enough to admit dipping overboard.
But on large craft they are dipped in a tub at the waist, which is kept
filled by one or more draw buckets.
1902. The Double Becket Hitch is more secure than the Single
Becket Hitch and is the method by which a whale line is always
made fast to the harpoon becket.
If a very small line is bent to a large eye the Becket Hitch may
be tripled or even quadrupled by adding further turns.
1903. This is a becket (not a Becket Hitch). It is seized in the
rigging and used as a fair-leader for running rigging or else for con-
fining and storing coils, oars, spars, etc.
1904. An iron hook, used in the same way and for the same pur-
pose, is also termed a becket . This is moused when in use ($3267).
1905. Steering-wheel beckets are used in pairs. They hook to the
deck, and an Eye Splice slips over a spoke at either side of the wheel
to hold it steady when the ship is not under weigh. The wheel is then
said to be “in beckets”; hands are “in beckets” when in the trousers
pockets.
1906. Another Double Becket Hitch is formed as shown here; if
desired, the end may be stuck through both the turns instead of
through the lower one only.
1907. A Becket Hitch is given by Ohrvall, for bending to a large
eye with a small line, employing racking turns. This is given among
the bends as #1462.
1908. The Figure-Eight Hitch is an angler’s method of attach-
ing a fishline to a Leader Loop. There are a number of Leader Loop
Hitches shown in Chapter 2, which are potential Becket Hitches
provided the Leader Loop is a spliced eye.
1909. A Double Becket Hitch that is often shown. It is inferior
to #1902 but requires one less tuck.
1910. A Round Turn and Two Half Hitches is a strong hitch
that is to be recommended where there is a considerable discrepancy
between the size of the line and the becket.
1911. If a mooring line is to remain long under water the Fisher-
man’s Bend, parceled and seized, cannot be bettered.
1912. A temporary hitch that is found in lifeboat lashings. It is
insecure and must be used with discrimination. The knot should be
pushed hard up to the becket.
1913. The same knot with additional turns is frequently slipped.
The turns serve to expend the surplus line.
1914. A Toggled Bight is used where it is necessary to cast off
quickly. It cannot jam and is spilled by removing the toggle.
[ 316 ]
HOOKS, BECKETS, AND TOGGLES
1915. A Slipped and Toggled Becket Hitch is used in setting up
topmast rigging. It is slipped by pulling on the end. It is popular
because it “favors” the stiffened ends of old lanyards.
1916. Bowline bridles are attached to the bowline cringles either
with toggles or (an earlier practice) with Bowline Knots.
1917. In the mid-nineteenth century bowline bridles were also
inside clinched to the cringles. The Bowline holds the luff of a
square sail to windward when a ship is sailing “full and by.” Bunt-
lines on large craft were also secured with Inside Clinches.
1918 . The Buntline Hitch, according to Kipping (1840), was
tied through eyelet holes in the foot of a sail, not to a cringle, which
was the earlier practice. Buntlines are employed to lift the square
sails preparatory to furling. The Buntline Hitch is a very secure
knot and is not easily loosened by the slatting of the sail. Toggles also
have been employed for securing buntlines, Luce showing them in
1862.
1919. The Toggled Bight is employed in hoisting sail preparatory
to bending. A spill line or trip line is attached to the toggle.
1920. The Toggled Bight is more secure if extra turns are added.
1921. A Bight and Eye, toggled: This provides a way to secure
slings to an eye strap.
1922 . Toggle and Eye: Lever, in 1808, gives this as the Merchant
Marine way of bending the tack to a clew.
1923 . Eye to Eye (about 1800). In this case the clew is rove
through the eye and then the sheet is rove through the clew. The
toggle is to prevent the two eyes from jamming.
1924. Eye to Eye ( 1808 ). The clew is rove through the eye and
the toggle is stuck under a bight of the sheet. When the toggle is
removed the knot spills.
1925. Sheet block and Tack Knot made fast to a clew. Lower and
topsail sheet blocks were fastened in this manner a hundred and
fifty years ago with Tack Knots, and topgallant and royal sheets
with Stopper Knots or Double Wall Knots.
1926 . Nares, in i860, gives this method of attaching the Bowlines.
When tacking ship, the lower toggle is slipped and the Bowline is
instantly cleared from the sail. The upper toggle is spliced to the
bowline bridle.
1927. An eye toggled to a bight is given in several seamanship
books as a means of securing the standing part of a topgallant hal-
yard purchase. A hitch is first made around the neck of the block
strap and then a bight is shoved
inserted as shown.
1928. When rafting water, the cask hoops are driven up and
beckets inserted. Before driving the hoops home, moist sand is rubbed
on the staves to prevent riding. The towlines are either toggled to
the beckets or else made fast with Becket Hitches.
1929. Signal flags are fitted with toggles at one end of the hoist
and eyes at the other, so that a number can be buttoned together
without loss of time.
1930. A topgallant, studding-sail tack block, toggled to an eye in
the end of a studding-sail boom (i 860 ).
through the becket. The toggle is
[3 17 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1931. An anchor post. A bight or loop, passed through a hole in a
post, is held fast with a toggle.
1932. A hand lead (for sounding the depth of water) was for-
merly fitted with a short leather strap or becket with a slit or hole
at either end of it. A Long Running Eye in the end of the lead line
was rove through the two slits in the strap.
1933. A grommet is made through the eye of a deep-sea lead and
the lead line is attached with a Long Running Eye to the grommet
or becket.
1934. A wire grommet is best for a heavy lead. The sides of the
grommet are seized together so as not to disturb the passage of the
lead through the water.
1935. Robands, robbins or ropebands were required in bending
square sail. A single roband is made fast with a Tag Hitch through
the eyelet holes in the head of the sail.
1936. Storm trysails are often secured to the mast with toggles
and beckets.
1937. Double robands were generally of Flat Sinnet # 2968 . One
end of each had an eye and the other end was pointed. The shorter
tail was rove through the eyelet hole, from aft forward, then through
the eye or becket of its mate. The second ropeband was then rove
through the eye of the first one.
1938. Single reef points of small stuff were knotted at half length
through the sails. Nowadays they are sewed in.
They are called points because the early ones, which were of
sinnet, were always tapered or pointed. Reef points of small stuff
are always whipped twice, sinnet ones once. The name 'whipping
comes from the whipping or lashing received by reef points from
the wind.
1939. Double reef points of sinnet with an eye or becket in each
leg were common before the clipper days. The eye was made long
and a round turn was taken in it to serve as a stopper. The end of
each point passed through a grommet eyelet in the sail and through
the doubled eye of its mate. Then they were hove taut.
1940. A T chain hitching post was, in the horse-and-carriage days,
one of the commonest means of temporarily “hitching” a horse. The
chain passed around the horse’s neck before it was toggled. As 1
recall it, the toggle was always spoken of as “the bar.”
If it was necessary to “hitch” a pair of horses— a very poor practice
indeed, for people who can’t afford a coachman really should limit
themselves to one horse— the toggle was rove through all the rings
of both bits and toggled to the nigh bit ring of the nigh horse.
1941. For hoisting empty casks, a railroad spike makes an excel-
lent toggle that is inserted at the bunghole. A lanyard of fishline
should be made fast around the head of the spike with which it is
to be recovered when the lift is over, as otherwise it is likely to foul
in the bunghole.
1942. A watch chain ordinarily toggles to a waistcoat buttonhole
with a gold bar.
1943. A whaler’s blubber toggle and eye strap will hold under a
strain where a ioo-pound iron hook will straighten. The toggle is
worked out by hand from a section of six-inch white oak or hickory.
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CHAPTER 26: MISCELLANEOUS HOLDFASTS
Hitch your wagon to a star.
Ralph Waldo Emerson
The appliances of this chapter verge on the mechanical in nature.
Many of them grip the rope, instead of the rope’s gripping the
appliance. They are designed either to make a quicker or an easier
coupling, or else a simpler one that the inexpert cannot go wrong
with. The greater proportion of them were made for the use of
either the horseman or the housewife, and considerable ingenuity
has been expended in their construction. Some of the horse-and-
carriage fittings have been sketched from memory. Others were
salvaged from the family garage that had started out in life as stable
and carriage house.
It may seem unprofitable to resurrect such material, much of
which is obsolete today. But knotting is merely the application of
certain mechanical principles, and a principle itself can hardly be-
come obsolete. As conditions change, new applications are bound
to appear. The fact that something is not required today is no reason
for believing that it will not be needed tomorrow.
Latchings and euphroes, that one time were used at sea, of late
years cannot be found serving their original purposes on shipboard.
But they have now become circus stand-bys. Toggles, at one time
common aboard ship, are now to be found on balloons and para-
chutes.
Different ways of making a rope fast to blocks and hooks were
given in the last chapter. Here are illustrated a number of smaller
snap hooks that snap into beckets and eyes of various sorts.
*
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[ 319 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1944. Sister hooks are found on sheet blocks, where they are usu-
ally a semipermanent or permanent attachment. They consist of two
parallel reversed hooks, with flat sides adjoining each other. When
stopped or seized at the neck or small, they cannot loosen. These
hinge around a thimble.
1945. A key ring consists of a close helix of two turns made of
spring steel. It is often fitted with a cord or small chain lanyard. The
spring opens sideways to admit a key which has to pass completely
around the ring before it drops into place.
1946. Another variety of sister hooks, sometimes called clip hooks,
hinges on a ring. In this one the eyes are at right angles to the hook.
1947. The ordinary snap hook has a flat sheet-metal spring which
bends to admit a ring or other object.
1948. The common halter snap hook has a bolt which is opened
with the thumb and is closed by a coil spring.
1949. A tongue hook is a more modern type of snap hook.
1949/2. A swivel hook saves a rope from twisting.
1950. An S or Ess hook is used to permanently join two links of
a chain, or to fasten a chain to a bucket or other object. The hook
is closed by hammering the parts together.
1951. The law still requires the seller of a horse to furnish a
halter to the buyer. The halter pictured here was of jute and once
retailed for fifteen cents.
1952. The ordinary eye for the snap hook of a neck halter has a
galvanized iron cylinder into which it screws.
1953. An old New Bedford neck halter which consisted of a
Matthew Walker Knot that buttoned to an Eye Splice. It was
made and used by Captain William I. Shockley.
1954. A tension adjustment from an old hand loom consisted of
a series of pegs over one of which an iron ring was dropped.
1955. Another tension adjustment , that can be used for many
purposes, is the commercial tent-rope fastening.
1956. 1957. Here are two rope-end adjustments found in children's
gymnasium apparatus of today. But #1956 was illustrated in Emer-
son’s Principles of Mechanics (London, 1794), while #1957 is fash-
ioned from an ordinary S hook.
1958. To secure the bight of a rope to an eyebolt, screw eye or
knob, tie a Ring Hitch around the neck.
1959. To “hitch” a bridle rein directly to the ring of a common
hitching post was always considered bad form, since a horse would
be apt to pull back and break the rein. Often hitching posts were
installed quite as much to protect trees from horses as to accommo-
date the drivers.
1960. An early bridle-rein catch from five stone posts that were
bought in Middleboro, Massachusetts.
1961. An early bridle-rein catch , set in masonry.
1962. A screw eye and a nail makes a good fastening on the same
principle as #1959, #1961 and #1963.
r 320 ]
MISCELLANEOUS HOLDFASTS
1963. The “ Black Boy” hitching post. This was taken from the
familiar cast-iron hitching post representing a Negro jockey whose
business it was to hold your horse.
1964. An iron gondola-mooring hook from Venice, which operates
on the same principle as #1959, #1961, #1963.
1965. A hitch to the eye of a hook y that was found in modern
hay hoisting gear.
1966. A Single Hitch to a stud on a tennis-net winch. Sometimes
the stud is countersunk so that the rope will not be bruised in the
winding.
1967. Peg and hole . A method employed in caning chairs and
stringing racquets. For temporarily holding a string or gut in a hole,
thrust in either an awl or a pricker in the direction shown here for
the wedges. Shellac or glue may be added to hold the gut secure.
1968. A r unndo r \Xhshade pulley for raising and lowering large
shades. The window-shade cord leads through this pulley, which is
screwed to the wall. Raise the shade to the required height, hold the
cord off center, either to the right or left, and continue to lower.
The cord will switch to the side track and jam. To lower: Pull
down to loosen the cord, then hold the cord straight up and down
and lower away.
1969. This buttonlike fitting is almost always found on Venetian
blinds and jalousies. A few turns of the cord around the disk-shaped
head hold the cord secure. Several cords may be wrapped parallel
with each other to the same anchor.
Ansted, in his Dictionary of Sea Terms (Glasgow, 1917), shows
what he calls sheet clips , that are the same as the Venetian-blind
catch except that the disk or button is at right angles to the screw
plate. He recommends them for use with jib sheets in single-handed
sailing. I have not heard of their being employed in America.
1970. There have been many attempts to produce a perfect
clothesline fastening. But it would seem that the average laundress
is not mechanically minded. Number 1972, patented many years ago,
is still the favorite, although the ordinary wire nail runs a close
second.
The appliance shown is a variety of pinch cleat and the rope is
made fast with one or two round turns. I am not certain just how
old this is, but as it is better made than #1972 it is probably older.
1971. A cheaper, newer and perhaps as efficient a pinch fastening
is made of heavy bent wire. A couple of turns around the horn
should hold the clothesline adequately.
1972. This patented cleat of fifty years or more ago will hold,
no matter how the turns in the clothesline are taken, provided they
are sufficient in number. The maker’s name and the patent number
both indicate that the hook or cleat should be fastened in the po-
sition in which it is here drawn. The hook at the top, to which the
line is first led, appears to belong logically in this position. But I
have never seen one so placed. Evidently laundresses are unwilling
to jeopardize their luck, as the horseshoe is always secured with the
other side up.
[321 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1973. This counter weight, of gilded cast iron in the form of e
tassel, was suspended by a rope from the ceiling of the harness room.
1974. The cast-iron horse was attached to the wall and a rope led
up the wall and across the ceiling to the middle of the room, where
it terminated in the counterweight pictured above; to the bottom of
the iron tassel was attached a leather-covered hook. Harness was
hooked to this and cleaned. When not in use the counterweight was
hauled to the ceiling and the height was adjusted on the iron horse
with a series of loops.
1975. A more realistic animal was found in a friend’s stable. An
Overhand Knot instead of a loop was used in making fast, and
there was a second Overhand Knot higher up, with which to hold
the hook to the ceiling.
1976. A reversed cup held open the carriage-room skylight. Sev-
eral Overhand Knots were tied in the rope at different lengths to
allow of adjustment. Almost the same thing, but upturned, is found
in gymnasiums for holding dumbbells.
1977. This shows a modern head halter of sash cord with a great
variety of cast-iron and bent wire couplings.
1978. Strings are secured to the tailpieces of musical instruments
with Stopper Knots. These are generally Double Overhand Knots.
The knots are dropped through large holes and then slipped forward
into narrow slots which pinch the string.
1979. The “fly” or “snapper” of a carriage whip is held in a similar
way. Generally a half dozen or more whips are hung against the
carriage- or harness-room wall from a cast-iron rack, the edges of
which are slotted. Each slot tapers to pinch the fly below a Termi-
nal Overhand Knot. Whips were very personal things and each
member of a family often had his individual whip and place in the
rack.
1980. The clip on the end of a whiffletree, if of iron, was tilted
forward at a 45-degree angle. The trace or tug had to be lifted to
admit of buttoning to the clip. When traces were slack they sagged
forward at right angles to the clip, when taut at about 45 degrees, so
they could not become unbuttoned without assistance.
1981. The holdback was often a leather loop nailed to the under-
side of the t; the strap took a round turn through the loop and
around the au»rt. But in the final quarter of the last century an iron
casting was screwed to the shaft. The bight of the holdback strap
was bent forward and the edge farthest from the shaft was slipped
into place first. Once adjusted, there was no tendency to slip out.
1982. On light carts a wooden clip, which was a continuation of
the whiffletree, held the trace, and a leather tongue was thrust
through a hole, which prevented its slipping. On farm wagons and
heavy carts the whiffletree was fitted with curved iron hooks to
which chain tugs were hooked.
1983. A ball-and-socket adjustable fastening for a punching bag.
The first illustration gives a vertical cross section. To shorten the
rope, pull on the standing part; to lengthen, insert a nail to lift the
ball and pull down the end.
1984. A hammock anchor was a common contrivance for hooking
a rope to a hammock clew. The hook on the post or tree was gener-
ally out of reach. The knotted end could be extended and a Becket
Hitch made, as shown by the arrow.
CHAPTER 27: OCCASIONAL KNOTS
With old sailors- it was , and is, a matter of pride to be able to make
knots, the more difficult and obscure the better .
Albert R. Wetjen: Fiddlers' Green , 1941
This chapter is devoted to knots that serve a special or individual
purpose. Either they serve the purpose especially well, or else merely
better than other knots that offer.
Quite a number of the knots that are given here for special pur-
poses will also be found elsewhere serving general purposes.
The chapter also includes a number of odd knots that do not fall
easily under the listings of other chapters, or that here fulfill other
needs that do not appear under their regular listing. Here also will
be found knots that belong to classes so small that they were deemed
insufficient to command a chapter for themselves. There are some
knots here that might have been included among the vocational
knots of Chapter 2, or that are eligible for one of the chapters on
hitches. The present chapter really serves as a catchall for anything
that does not definitely belong somewhere else.
I was once asked to tie a rope to the tapering end of a spar. The
spar tapered only slightly and it was not a difficult thing to do, but
there is a definite limit in that direction to what may fairly be asked
of a knot. If a hitch is made on a cone with a taper that is not too
pronounced, a fairly good knot can be made, provided the very tip
of the rope can be held stationary under a slight pull.
[ 323 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1985. If permissible, drive a tack or Small nail into a spar and make
a Single Hitch with the line below it. Marl a piece of old inner tube
lengthwise, not bandage-wise, down the cone. Put a hitch snugly
around the tube close to the nail. Wrap the rope tightly in a long
helix toward the end of the cone and, when near the end, put on a
final hitch. Add the load gradually.
1986. Another way is to open the end of the rope, tease it out and
with a narrow strip of adhesive tape graft it to the cone. A third
way is to cover the cone with an old inner tube and add a series of
Snug Half Hitches toward the end, being careful that the knots
lie in a straight line. Add the load slowly.
1987. The Crabber’s Eye Knot, also called the Crossed Running
Knot, is similar in form to the Bowline, but the pull is different and
it is more apt to distort. Its salient feature is that the standing part
may be hauled on and the knot slid to a desired position. When the
desired position is reached the knot may be ‘locked” by hauling
stoutly on the end.
1988. The Left-Hand Sheet Bend is a more secure knot than the
foregoing and may be utilized in the same way. Haul on the stand-
ing part until in the correct position, then hold it steady and haul
or jerk on the end.
1989. Flagstaff Knot. But if you have decided to hoist the flag
and have it remain where it is hoisted, it is no longer necessary to
nail your colors to the mast. Merely use the knot shown here and a
steeplejack or a tree scaler will be required to haul it down.
The lead is better than in the two previous knots and it draws
up more smoothly. If there is much at stake, seize the knot open with
worsted yam before hauling it aloft. A jerk on the end will break
the yarn and lock the knot.
1990. A Lock Knot around a parcel or roll can be tied on some-
what the same principle. An ordinary Noose is made in the end
around its own standing part. Draw the standing part snug, and
then, while holding it snug, pull stoutly on the end. Pull until a bight
of the standing part is swallowed by the Noose. The knot capsizes
into a Sheet Bend and, after once being adjusted, will hold its position.
[324]
OCCASIONAL KNOTS
1991. A Jam Hitch may be slid up and down the standing part
until the proper adjustment is reached; then, by pulling smartly on
the end, the knot is jammed and thereafter will not slip.
1992. A Jamming Hitch that closes easily, but does not render
easily. This may be tied around a bale or roll and after being drawn
taut may be slid to any position and will stay in place after the hand
has been removed.
1993. The Midshipman’s Hitch. When you have fallen overboard,
which happens to us all, sooner or later, grab the end of the line that
is tossed you, pass it quickly either through your legs or under your
seat, make a Half Hitch around the standing part with the end,
then jam a second turn on top of the Half Hitch. If no more time
is available, hold the end tightly grasped to the standing part. If you
still have opportunity make a Half Hitch above the structure that
is already tied. Either way, you are now quite ready to be rescued.
1994. An Adjustable Jam Hitch. This knot is based on the
Rolling Hitch, and is also closely akin to the Midshipman’s Hitch
that has just been shown. The round turn is on the outer side of the
knot and the Half Hitch is inside. The knot may be slipped close
to hold a bale or roll as described for #1992. It will hold stoutly
wherever it is left but it is nevertheless easily adjusted to any other
position.
1995. The Awning Knot is often used as a temporary Post Hitch
in “staking off” to hold a crowd in check, or else as a Stake Hitch
for an awning. It is immediately loosened by a jar or jerk, the former
generally being administered by the foot and the latter by hand.
1996. When no belaying pin or cleat is handy, a tackle fall is often
temporarily made fast by jamming the end against the block under
an adjacent lead. Generally a bight is jammed, but if the end is
short it is led singly. This is more apt to be used ashore than at sea
because at sea, particularly on deck, a belaying pin is generally
handy. The circus man calls it the “Slip Tackle Knot.”
1997. Painters and carpenters, when securing their stagings, some-
times jam the end as just directed and then add a hitch around the
neck of the hook. They do this on the assumption that a knot need
fail but once to be fatal. The preferred way is to make fast to the
lower block as Knot #455.
[325]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
1998. For a heavy lift from a stay y a pendant is secured to the top-
mast head, having first been led through a thimble or bull’s-eye in
the end of a lashing. The lashing is passed four or five times around
the stay and pendant. The end, having been brought forward from
behind the pendant, is clove hitched around the stay.
1999. For a light lift, a tail block is made fast to the stay with a
Rolling Hitch.
2000. The Roband Hitch (#1270) is given by Lieutenant Emery
H. Taunt, in The Young Sailor's Assistant (Washington, 1883), as a
means of boating an anchor, which is far from its original purpose
of bending sail. The end of the rope is tucked similarly to the Top-
sail Halyard Bend. I have found the knot useful in securing a
lantern to the end of a boat boom. It might also serve to support the
arm of a makeshift derrick. To tie: Lead the end downward and
put a Clove Hitch around the spar, then reeve two turns around
both spar and ring (or becket) within the Clove Hitch. Tie a
Single Hitch around the standing part and tuck under the turns as
pictured.
2001. A Slipped Hitch to a boat thwart is a good method for
securing the halyards in a sailing skiff or dinghy when the craft is not
fitted with cleats.
2002. Ohrvall shows a somewhat similar knot for the same purpose.
2003. To secure a lanyard to a tool handle: Bore a hole slightly
larger than the size of the lanyard for two or three inches into the
end of the handle and countersink the hole slightly to save chafe
on the lanyard. Then bore a larger intercepting hole from the side.
Reeve the lanyard in at the end and out at the side hole, tie a
Figure-Eight Knot or Oysterman’s Stopper in the end and with-
draw it into the handle. Fill the hole with plastic wood and, when
dry, sandpaper and varnish it.
2004. Another method is to bore a somewhat larger hole three
or four inches into the end of the handle. Tie a large knot in the
end of the cord. Make a peg that fills the hole tightly, groove one
side of the peg to receive the cord. Insert the knot, lay the cord
into the groove, swab the peg with glue and drive it home. When
dry, trim the end of the peg.
2005. The Short End Bend. Although this knot has already been
shown among the bends, its specialty differentiates it from all other
bends. It can be tied to a fixed end that is far shorter than can be
tied to by any other method that I know.
[326]
OCCASIONAL KNOTS
Its final form is identical with the Sheet Bend. A Noose Knot
is made in the long end and drawn up a little less than snug. The
Noose is dropped over the short end, which remains inert, and the
two ends of the Noose are pulled apart until the Noose capsizes and
swallows the short end. If the Noose is wrongside up when placed
over the short end, a Left-Hand Sheet Bend will result, which is
not so secure as the Right-Hand Sheet Bend shown here.
2006. A Two-Strand Matthew Walker Knot makes a good jug,
jar or bottle sling if the available cord is too short for Bight Knot
# 1142 . To tie: Follow the diagrams given and insert the neck of
the bottle at X.
2007. I have seen the Jug Sling (# 1142 ) recommended for carry-
ing a heavy bag. Tic the cord ends together with Double Harness
Bend #1420 so that the loops are of equal length.
2008. If no cord is handy and the neck of the bag is long, grip
well down on the neck and tuck the end as in the illustration. This
is a form of the Becket Hitch.
2009. Another way is to take a turn around the wrist with the
neck of the bag and grip the end in the hand. If the neck is twisted
a little it will be easier to handle. Although these knots tighten about
the wrist, they cause very little discomfort.
2010. A third way to hold a bag is shown here. As a heavy bag is
a tiresome thing to carry under any circumstances, all three of these
grips will be welcome if the carry is a long one. It is useful when
either loading a boat or making a portage.
2011. The next three knots are employed in finishing off seizings.
They are rigger’s ways of securing the working ends, and are not
shown elsewhere among knots proper, although they are given under
marlingspike seamanship in Chapter 40 , where their applications
are shown.
This one is sometimes spoken of as “finishing off with a Clove
Hitch,” but it is not quite a Clove Hitch. In construction it is
similar to the Ground Line Hitch (# 277 ) except that it is tied end
for end.
2012. The Flat Knot. The crossing turns start downward at the
top back when there are three crossing parts at the back and two at
the front. The knot is formed as shown. Sometimes it is mistakenly
¥
called the “Square Knot,” but “Flat Knot” is the rigger’s name.
2013. Ohrvall shows a slightly different Flat Knot that is used for
the same purpose.
[ 327 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
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2014. In pulling posts and stumps when heavy tackle is lacking,
gear can be compounded by utilizing the principle of the lever and
adding a “tail jigger” to the end of the lifting tackle. In the illustra-
tion the lever is a pair of shears. In stump pulling I have used an old
door, leading the chain over the center top, and holding it in place
by driving a spike down through one of the chain links at the top
into the door top. To hold what has been gained, lead a rope from
the anchor (post, crowbar, or tree) and put a Rolling Hitch on the
chain.
2015. A dead man is an anchor made by burying some bulky
object, such as a log. It is used for various guys and as an anchor
for a tackle in heavy hauling.
2016. A log similar to the one just shown may be used above
ground by compounding several rows of stakes. It is more quickly
arranged and will serve well where the pull does not depart too
much from the level, or where the ground is not too soft.
2017. A heaving-do'um post. This post was found on an old wharf.
It may at some time have been called a “heaving-down pile” but in
late years it has been called “post.” The British speak of careening
instead of heaving donjm and without doubt there are still piles or
posts for careening preserved in British naval dockyards. This one
was the last to remain on Merrill’s Wharf in New Bedford. The post
was sunk and a heavy floor built around it at a depth of several reet.
The floor was buried under stone with earth on top. The remainder
of the heaving-down gear, including winch and tackles, is pictured
as #3250 in Chapter 40 .
2018. A Bight Hitch to a knob. If a door sticks, tie a Bale Sling
Hitch around the knob with as large material as practicable. The
ends of the rope should be knotted together, forming a wreath or
grommet fifteen or eighteen inches long. Having attached it to the
knob, slip the hand into the loop, hold the loop firmly and, using
your hand as a hammer, drive open the door. If necessary, use a
section of iron pipe instead of the fist but, as this may break the
knob, examine the hinges of the door first to make sure that the
pins cannot be driven out, allowing the door to open at the hinge
edge.
2019. A Single Hitch to a knob. If a knob must be secured with
an end of rope, make two round turns about the neck, then fasten
the end of the rope to the standing part with a Rolling Hitch.
With this arrangement the rope may be tightened or slacked off
by sliding the knot up the standing part.
2020. A parbuckle and skids furnishes a convenient means of load-
ing or unloading cylindrical objects, such as casks and spars. The
two encircling ropes serve to steady the rolling object along its path.
The skids are not required but make the task easier.
A long rope may be middled and secured at the center, to a post,
ring or other fixture on shipboard, preferably with a Bale Sling
[328]
OCCASIONAL KNOTS
Hitch. The two parts of the rope are laid under the object and the
ends are led back in the direction of the post or ring. Care must be
taken to haul equally on the two ends. The power exerted is doubled.
2021. If an object, such as a spar, is too long or wide to pass
through the gangway, return parbuckles must be added and the ob-
ject lifted over the rail. The regular parbuckle is rigged with the two
parts leading over the rail of the ship.
The return parbuckle must be led at the level of the deck, so the
bights are passed out at two scuppers.
When the spar has been hauled to the top of the rail, the two
return parbuckles take over the load. They are first made taut and
then slacked off at an even rate to lower the spar to deck.
2022. The Spanish windlass imparts power to a rope by means of
a lever, which is pried around a spar, stake or other object. There
are several forms of the Spanish windlass.
To haul out a boat, or to move an automobile from a ditch: Make
fast the standing end of the rope to a fixed object and have a second
person hold a stake erect. Slush the stake well and also the part of
the lever around which the rope is to pass. Arrange the rope as in
the drawing and pull the lever around the stake. It may be necessary
to overhaul your windlass frequently. This may be done by apply-
ing a Stopper which by-passes the windlass stake and makes fast to
the rope at either side with a Rolling Hitch.
2023. A heaver works on much the same principle and, when
used in this way, it may be termed a Spanish windlass. It is used in
setting up on a rounding , on a hawser or cable (# 3350 ).
2024. A Spanish windlass is generally used when strapping a large
block at sea. A piece of well-slushed ratline stuff is passed one round
turn about the neck of the strap. The most convenient fulcrum is a
sheer pole which is already fast in the rigging at the correct height.
The power is applied with two marlingspikes or belaying pins
which are secured with Marlingspike Hitches. When the two sides
of* the strap have been hove together a seizing is put on.
2025. To twist a pipe, spar or post: Middle a rope and take a
number of turns as pictured. Do not slush , as in this case it is not
intended that the rope should slip. If, when the lever is turned, the
rope should slip, add more turns with each end of the rope or
sprinkle the surface with ashes.
2026. To lift a heavy load where no tackle is handy: Drive two
spikes into two heavy beams. Take a heavy round hardwood stick
for a fulcrum and, having arranged the rope, twist the bar around
the stick to lift the load. Slip another stick under the bar to hold
the load when the right level is reached. For light lifts a ladder may
be used. To lift a stone from a hole, lay beams horizontally and
elevate them above the opening, so that cribbing can be placed under
the stone after it is high enough.
[ 3 2 9 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2027. A rope “mud chain” for an automobile wheel, that does
away with the necessity of reeving the whole rope at each spoke.
Make fast to any spoke and reeve a short bight forward through the
adjacent opening. Bring a short bight from the rear around the tread
and through the first bight. Bring a bight from the rear out through
the second opening in the spokes and through the second bight.
Continue reeving alternate right and left bights in this same manner.
To finish off, reeve the end of the rope through the last bight and
make fast.
If any considerable length of rope is left, exhaust it in tightening
the structure already made, by making frapping turns.
2028. A jury bicycle tire. This is a rough-riding substitute but
it will get a person home without damage to rim or tire. Remove the
tire and take fifty-two feet of old clothesline (for a 28 -inch tire).
Stick an end down through the valve hole in the rim. Tie a Figure-
Eight Knot in the end. Then, facing the right side of the wheel, lay
another short piece of rope across the rim in a round turn, as pictured
at the left. Lead the long rope counterclockwise two turns (in one
layer) and draw as taut as possible. Add three more turns in a second
layer and heave all taut. Then add two more turns in a third layer
and stick the end of the rope through the near side of the loop that
was laid across the rim and draw the end through to the opposite side
of the wheel. Heave the rope taut and put on several S turns around
the two nearest spokes. The success or this “tire” depends entirely
on how tautly it has been passed. If the rope stretches, it will have
to be readjusted. So don’t wait for it to come off. Ride a short dis-
tance and then examine the tire, and adjust it if necessary.
If the rope is small, three turns may be required for the ground
tier, four for the middle tier and three for the upper tier.
2029. To heave on a strand when splicing: Take a hitch with a
strand around the tip of the pricker point as pictured and draw
it up close to the rope. Hold the end of the strand tightly with the
left hand and twist the pricker clockwise. Change the grip as often
as is necessary.
2030. The Marlingspike Hitch is always used for heavy heaving
on splices, seizings and service. To tie the knot: With the marling-
spike in the right hand, lay the point across the marline and with
the left hand add a turn of marline around the tip. Lift the spike and
place the tip to the right of the standing part and slip it under the
bight.
2031. A practical girdle or belt, that is easily adjustable, may be
made of a short piece of rope by tying two Rolling Hitches
(#1734), which form the Adjustable Bend shown elsewhere as
#1472.
r 33° ]
OCCASIONAL KNOTS
2032. Beads ordinarily are strung with Overhand Knots of vari-
ous sizes. The Chinese are said to employ a worm to carry a thread
through a crooked hole. Where a thread is large for the hole, it is
possible to splice a smaller one to the end of the larger one (# 2681 )
by scraping both ends; then the smaller one is rove first and the
larger one is dragged through after it. The splice should be waxed
before stringing the beads.
If the hole is large, as is often the case with wooden beads, a single
cord may still be used by increasing the size of the knot. A large
knot of the kind shown here adds very much to the decorative
effect of the beads. The knot is formed loosely by interlocking two
Overhand Knots. The first Overhand is drawn up snugly, close to
the bead, and the second Overhand Knot, shown by the single line
arrow, is next pulled tight. The result outwardly resembles a Two-
Strand Matthew Walker Knot.
2033. An ordinary way of lacing a shoe is pictured here. On the
surface, the parts lead horizontally, and on the underside diagonally,
similar to # 2036 .
2034. Perhaps the more common way is this, in which the parts are
diagonal on the surface and horizontal on the underside, and are led
similarly to # 2035 .
S. R. Ashley laces her skating and ski boots with two short strings
on each boot. The method saves much loosening and tightening and
allows of a much nicer adjustment at different parts of the lacing
(shown as #2033 and # 2034 ).
2035. The method shown here is designed to do away with the
tying of lacings. The fact that there is very little pull on the bottom
S marts of a lacing makes the method practicable. The strings are led
rom top to bottom , the reverse of # 2034 . The lace is led in regular
over-and-under tucks in the order marked on the drawing. The
ends may be led under the loop at top between 6 and 7 . After
the lacings are tightened (from top to bottom) the ends are tucked
out of sight under the shoe tops. It is particularly neat, but will
prove uncomfortable unless the metal tips are cut off. A buttonhook
will be of assistance in tightening.
2036. The concealed-end “horizontal lace” is preferred by many.
It was shown to me by Bruce McRae. The string is rove in the order
marked on the illustration. A football is laced in much the same
manner, a buttonhook being used for tightening.
2037. A method of lacing the cuffs of riding breeches was shown
to me by my brother, Burton M. Ashley. The long diagonals allow
considerable elasticity. All the parts on the underside are led verti-
cally.
2038. A lacing with a cross-gartered effect.
2039. Ski and skating boots may be laced so that no cord crosses
in contact with the instep.
[ 331 ]
'ii/iaim
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2040. Signal flags on yachts are commonly sent aloft on a small
staff. The flag is seized twice to its staff and the halyard is clove
hitched just below the lower seizing, and single hitched or clove
hitched near the bottom of the staff. The two ends of the halyard are
generally bent together.
2041. To secure the bight of a rope to a perforated post: Reeve
a bight through the hole and turn it back over the top of the post.
This is used in staking off and on clothes posts.
2042. In parceling , in bandaging and in passing ^ gaskets or other
flat material, if the lead requires deflection, fold the material half
over, crease and smooth down the fold, and lead in the direction
wanted.
2043. To secure the end of a line to a perforated post: Reeve the
line through the hole in the post, then make a Single Hitch over the
top of the post with the end.
2044. To hang a loaded sack from an eyebolt or a hook. Make
fast a strap, of marline or heavier material, to the eye with a Ring
Hitch (#1859). Then make a Bale Sling Hitch (&1694) in hand
and slip it over the neck of the sack.
2045. To hang a partially loaded sack to a hook without employing
a rope, tie a Blackwall Hitch with the neck of the bag. First lay
the end in the mouth of the hook, then lead the neck around the back
of the hook and through the mouth.
2046. To hitch to a stanchion: Haul the rope taut. Bring the end
around the post and take a turn around the standing part. Bring
the rope back around the post in the contrary way and take a turn
around the standing part and lead back again. Take as many of these
turns alternately left and right as desired, hauling each taut, and
finally half hitch the end to the standing part. If possible wrap the
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paper. This hitch must be made tightly so that it cannot “work.”
2047. Another method of tying to a rectangular timber . Take
five or six close turns around a timber and with the end take Two
Half Hitches around the standing part.
2048. To tow a boat alongside in such a way that she will sheer
off and be in no danger of colliding: Bring the painter aft, passing
it under a thwart, then lead it forward through a rowlock to the side
of the ship.
2049. A notched arrow for a throwing stick. An Overhand Knot
is tied in the end of a cord that is fast to a whiplike stick. The
knot is adjusted in a shallow slot or notch near the fore end of the
arrow which has been whittled from a shingle. The arrow is thrown
with a lash of the whip. I learned this, when a boy, from Dan
Beard’s American Boy’s Handibook. In this book was the first dis-
cussion of knots that I had ever read.
2050, 2051. In fishing, off a beach, a bag of sand is about the best
anchor that can be found. On a wide beach the distance that the boat
must be dragged or rolled, to reach the water’s edge, or to be above
[ 332 ]
OCCASIONAL KNOTS
the reach of the tide, is often so great that the extra weight of an
iron anchor is no small thing, and as it is no longer safe in this
country to leave anything smaller than a large boat around loose,
an iron anchor would have to be taken home after each trip, along
with the oars and fish. A strong and close-woven canvas bag is re-
quired. Two bucketfuls will be enough sand for an ordinary skiff
in any weather that is fit for fishing.
2050. Lay your anchor warp across the neck of the sack and turn
the neck back. Take a number of turns around the neck (seven or
eight), lead the end of the rope between the neck and the bag and
make the end of the rope fast to the standing part. This is a method I
have often seen employed on Horseneck Beach.
2051. The method that I have used myself is to tie with a Multi-
Fold Becket Hitch. (See #1902).
2052. A well-rounded stone from a shingle beach or an old cannon
ball makes an excellent counter 'weight for a gate or a cellar door.
Place the stone in the center of a square of canvas. Gather the canvas
at the top and tie closely with a Constrictor Knot (#1 188). Bend the
end to the standing part with a Bowline Knot.
2053. To carry or hang up an irregular or globular object, such as
a watermelon or a roast of beef, take a piece of old hammock or
seine. Cut it to a size a little bigger than appears necessary and reeve
the end of a rope in and out in a rough circle through the outer
meshes. Place the object in the center and draw up the rope, which
acts as a puckering string. Secure with Two Half Hitches. If the
net fits too loosely, add a seizing close to the object that is to be
suspended. Carry over your shoulder, or on a tote pole between two
men.
2054. A Spanish reef is an emergency method of shortening sail
in a small boat. Sometimes the mainsail of a sloop, when close reefed,
is too small for the jib as a whole, yet the boat will not steer without
some headsail. Unsnap the upper stay hooks of the jib and tie an
Overhand Knot in the head of the sail.
2055. Bracing a drum . A drumhead is tautened by hauling down
on the leathers, one at a time. This tightens the cord which holds the
two ends of the drum together. When not in use the leathers are
slackened, so as not to stretch the head.
2056. To hitch to the side of a ladder at the end of a rung, employ
the Buoy Rope Hitch (#720).
2057. A horse's tail is tied up , when sleighing in slushy snow, or
whenever the going is muddy. There are a number of ways of doing
this. Often the hair is twisted and laid up in the manner of rope;
sometimes it is platted. A good practical way is to divide the tail
and half knot the two parts, then wind the two ends tightly upward
in opposite directions. As the dock tapers toward the end the whole
tendency is for the hair to slip downward. It is prevented by the
bulk of the first Half Knot. When the tail has been wound suffi-
ciently, half knot the two ends together, and tuck the ends of hair
under the outside turns.
[333 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2058 . A hitch to a cylinder . If a window weight is too large it may
be broken with a hammer and both halves used. One end, having no
hole, requires a special attachment. First seize the rope and open
it to the seizing, then open the strands into their individual yarns.
With the standing part upward and the yarns hanging downward,
arrange them evenly around the end of the weight and seize with a
Constrictor Knot (#1249). Next proceed with marline to graft
the yarns to the cylinder as described in #3557. Finally seize all ends.
2059 . Cross Grafting is more secure than regular grafting for this
purpose. The method is described as #3563.
2060 . A practical and expeditious way is to tape the window
weight in a right helix, then to twist the yarns evenly over the
taped section in an opposite helix to the left. Finally round over the
yarns with marline in a tight right helix. Whip and snake the ends.
2061 . A lizard trap from Guinea, taken from a Smithsonian Ethno-
logical Report . A gap is left in the wall of a light stockade and a
crossbar is lashed across the top. The rope is secured to a strong
springy sapling, the end of which is to be hauled down above the
gap. A Noose is put in the end of the rope. Two loose sticks are
arranged as in the picture, and a Slippery Hitch holds the Noose
and the otherwise loose sticks in position, until one or the other is
disturbed by an animal attempting to pass through the gap. The
knots are a Slippery Hitch and a Noose arranged as shown. Other
traps are shown under “Shooting,” “The Trapper,” and “The
Poacher” in Chapter 2.
2062 . An old mounting on a Provincetown Arctic “iron” or har-
poon. A Wall Knot (*671) is tied in the end of the mounting,
which is made fast to the harpoon socket with two round seizings
(#3388). The rope is five and a half feet long. The whale line is
bent with a Double Becket Hitch (#1902).
2063 . The mounting for a sperm-whale iron, which is about twelve
inches shorter than the former, due to the thinner blubber of the
Temperate Zone whale. It is seized in the same way as the former,
but the two seizings are nearer together to allow of grafting
(#3557), which starts well up on the socket of the iron.
2064 . Latching is an old method of attaching a drabbler to a jib,
or a bonnet to a fore and aft sail. Nowadays it is the method em-
ployed by circuses in assembling the canvas sections of the tents.
A series of eyelets in the upper section of the sail are opposite a
series of loops, termed “keys,” in the headrope of the bonnet. Start-
ing at one side, a key is rove through the opposite eyelet and hauled
to the next eye. The next key is rove through its opposite eye and
through the key that was first led. This process is continued until
the center is reached. The process is then repeated, beginning at the
other edge of the sail. The two center loops, being twice as long as
the rest, are reef knotted together. Captain John Smith described
them in 1627, calling them “latchets.”
2065 . The Chinese • windlass is the grandfather of the present-day
differential chain hoist. One end winds, while the other unwinds,
and the right end of the barrel, being larger than the left, winds or
unwinds a greater length of rope than the left end, with each revolu-
tion of the crank.
[ 334 ]
CHAPTER 28 : LASHINGS AND SLINGS
Knotting ought to be reckoned , in the scale of insignificance > ram
to mere idleness. Dr. Samuel Johnson’s Dictionary
Lashing is a broad term that covers several somewhat different
practices. A lashing may wrap and bind, or else bind only with a
multiplicity of turns, a bale, parcel, box, chest, or other container,
either for transportation or for storage. It may secure something
movable to something that is fixed, with various turns and hitches,
so that it cannot shift from its position. Spars, boats and water butts
are lashed on deck, and ashore various loads are lashed to wagons
and trucks. Derricks, shears and bridges are lashed when erected
as an integral part of their construction.
In America, where until recently wood has been inexpensive,
scaffolds, or stagings as we more often call them, are commonly
made of new sawed timbers, nailed together. But in Great Britain
scaffolds are made of firs tightly lashed together with rope. Firs arc
tall evergreen trees that are purposely planted very thickly together
so that they may grow slender and straight. Lashings of this sort are
frequently tightened with wedges, particularly post lashings. I have
seen the front of a cathedral scaffolded in this manner to a height of
at least one hundred feet. A single post in such a scaffold will con-
sist of a number of parallel firs in staggered lengths, the butt of one
fir resting on the head of the fir beneath it. (See #2103.)
Many lashings on shipboard have individual names such as lan-
yards, gripes, gammoning, fishing, etc.
[335]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
Lashings that are in constant use are apt to be fitted at one end
with a ring, an Eye Splice or a hook, and with a lanyard at the other
end.
Frapping turns are round turns which heave the several parts of
a lashing together to tighten them, and racking turns are taken S-wise
around two parts for the same purpose and also to hold them se-
curely in position.
Service > seizings and whippings are closely related to lashings but
are made of smaller material.
2066. In making up a parcel, bale, bundle, or roll (the commonest
form of lashing), the lashing is generally started by tying a loop
in the end of the rope. At sea the Bowline Knot (#1010) is used
for the purpose.
2067. For tying in twine the Angler’s Loop (#1017) is to be
recommended; it is as easily tied as the Bowline, is neater, has a better
lead and is quite as strong; but it is not so easily untied.
2068. The Loop Knot (#1009), sometimes called “Thumb Knot,”
is commonly used in shops when tying up heavy parcels.
2069. The Loop Knot (2) is more often tied in the manufacturing
and wholesale districts, where heavier cord is required.
2070. If a lashing is permanent, such as that on a boat or on a sea
chest, where it is replaced after each opening, an Eye Splice is put
in the end.
2071. The Running Bowline is the Noose that is customarily put
around any parcel or bale that is made up at sea. Ashore a Loop
Knot (#1009) is more apt to be used in forming the Noose.
A Noose is formed by reeving the end through any of the five
loops that have just been shown. But a much quicker way to form a
Noose is to lay a bight from the standing part across the loop and
pull the bight through until it is the size required.
2072. When a loop is not made in hand the common shopkeeper’s
way is to tie it directly around the parcel in the manner pictured
here. An Overhand Knot is added to the end of the cord to prevent
spilling. This is not quite the same as Noose #2069 but the Over-
hand Knot makes it about as secure.
2073. In the days when the cotton brokers of New Bedford used
to carry their samples from mill to mill, the bundles or rolls were
sometimes tied with the knot shown here, which is the same as the
Adjustable Jam Hitch (#1994). The advantage of this knot was that
the Noose could be draw n as tightly as wished, and would not render,
so no further lashing or knotting was necessary. All that was required
when the samples were to be displayed was to slide the knot open. It
was closed in the same way. (See also #1230.)
2074. Where a long object is to be lashed, a series of Single
Hitches, or Marline Hitches, is required along its full length.
2075. Marline Hitches are preferable, since they are firmer. In
the Navy seven such hitches were formerly required when a ham-
mock was to be lashed, but nowadays five appears to be the standard.
1 336 ]
LASHINGS AND SLINGS
2076. The most elementary method of making up a bundle is to
middle a cord and pass a single turn around the waist. Cross the
ends, making an elbow, and bring them around at right angles until
they meet again, and there tie them snugly with a Reef Knot. This
is a proper way to use the Reef Knot and it is as good a way as any
to “tie” bundles that are to be stowed away. It is not, however,
sufficiently secure for post and express parcels; but a close Overhand
Knot in each end will make the Reef Knot safe for the purpose.
Bundles in the home are always “tied,” and in some quarters a
tightly lashed bundle is said to be “corded.”
2077. The Crossing Knot. In a proper lashing two parts do not
cross each other without being engaged. The common Crossing
Knot is often used at sea because a sailor abhors anything in rope
that jams. Lay a bight of the working end across the transverse part,
then tuck the end as pictured.
2078. The common shore way of tying this knot requires two
tucks. The knots are identical, or they may be left and right per-
versions, as the drawings here show them.
2079. The Clove Hitch is ordinarily tied in heavy cord by manu-
facturers’ shipping departments, whenever a Crossing Hitch is re-
quired. However, if the cord is worth saving, the Clove Hitch is an
annoyance, as it is difficult to untie. The hitch in the illustration is
tied in the horizontal cord.
2080. This shows the top of a parcel with a Running Bowline
secured about its waist. On the bottom is Crossing Knot #2077. To
draw taut and make fast, pass the end upward across the waist; stick
from right to left under the upper vertical pan and form a Half
Hitch in what is practically one motion. Haul taut and add another
Half Hitch above the first, then draw up and add an Overhand
Knot to the end. This is about the simplest way to make up a parcel.
2081. The commoner but by no means better way of securing the
end is to pass it around the upper part of the lashing and to add the
two Half Hitches below.
2082. The first Half Hitch may be taken after the end has been
rove under the knot at the waist. Tied in this way, no finger is re-
quired to hold the first Half Hitch while the second one is being
added. What is gained, however, scarcely pays for the extra trouble
of reeving.
2083. The Packing Knot consists of a Figure-Eight Knot tied
around the standing part. It may be drawn up snugly and ordinarily
will not render while the cross turn is being added. If a hitch is put
around the end, with a bight from the standing part, the waist is
permanently locked after the manner of a Butcher’s Knot.
2084. To 'wrap up bottles : Take an oversize piece of heavy Manila
paper, much wider than for an ordinary parcel, open and place sev-
eral thicknesses of old newspapers on top. Close the side edges to-
gether and roll them up tightly two or more turns. Turn up the edges
of one end and fold or roll up that end so that it forms a heavy pad.
Treat the other end likewise and lash with a heavy cord, as already
described for # 2080 .
2 . 07*1
20 7ft
207 9
20ft O
208 0
206'
337 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2085. These drawings represent a parcel lashing that is much af-
fected by “shoppes of the better sorte,” but it is to be found in the
cash-and-carry zones as well. Middle a cord or ribbon and loop it
over one comer of the box or parcel. Cross the ends on the underside
and bring them to the top. Here the end from the left is led through
the loop as pictured, and the end leading from the bottom is tucked
to the left under the upper vertical part. The two ends are then tied
in a Bowknot which may be as elaborate as desired.
2086. A square parcel lashing . Hold one quarter of the length of
a long cord in the left hand and take a full turn with the right hand,
around the right end of a flat and approximately square-topped box,
passing the long end to the left of the short end. Still with the right
hand lead the long end to the right end around the upper end of the
box, passing below the short end. Turn the long end upward, crossing
the short end, and lead the long end around the left end of the box,
bringing it up to the right of the short end. Cross the long end to the
left over the short end and lead it around the lower end of the box
and finally tie the two ends together with either a Reef Knot or
Parcel Knot #2095. A Bowknot from Chapter 31 should be added.
If desired, the lashing may be further complicated while being made
by adding Crossing Knots to the reverse side.
2087. This depicts a method of parcel tying that is common in
dress shops, haberdasheries, laundries, “ dry cleaning” and pressing
establishments. Besides being decorative it is essentially practical. It
may be tied in cord or ribbon but colored cotton tape is customarily
used. The girl who ties the parcel generally drops a large loose turn
of the cord over the counter or over the box and then arranges it in
two loops around opposite corners. The cords are next crossed at
one end of the box and the long end is passed again around the box
with an alternating over-and-under that is the opposite of the first
course. When the cord has returned to the front, both the top and
bottom lashings will be found to bear a neat diamond pattern. The
ends are crossed as shown in the fourth diagram and after being
drawn taut are finished off with a Bowknot.
2088. The transportation of goods by pack animals is still impor-
tant in mountainous country. But lately we have heard less of the
army mule and more of the automobile truck. Mountain highways
are rapidly paralleling the old pack trails.
A characteristic pack is shown here, but every packer adds his in-
dividual refinements to the task, and these he varies to suit the char-
2081
[338!
LASHINGS AND SLINGS
acter of the load. The various articles that are to be carried are as-
sembled and wrapped in a canvas manta. The turns of the lashing
are arranged so that they can be progressively tightened by heaving
sideways on the various parts. A rope called a lair, having an Eye
Splice and Thimble at one end, is needed for the lashing. A Noose is
formed by means of the Eye Splice and is placed lengthwise around
the pack. A hitch is led around the pack at one-third length, as shown
in the first diagram. Another Single Hitch is added around the pack
ielow the first, so that the length of the pack is divided approxi-
mately into equal thirds by the two hitches. The lair rope is next led
up the back of the pack, forming two Crossing Knots (#2089) on
the way. It is brought down the front on the right side where it
rounds the lower of the two encircling hitches, and is then made fast
to the upper one, generally with a Clove Hitch. While being made
up, the pack is not hove on— it is merely adjusted “hand taut.” But
when all the turns are in place it is set up, or hove taut. It is then
tightened gradually from beginning to end, and the end of the lair
rope is expended with further turns if necessary.
2089. The Crossing Knots, on the back of the pack lashing, differ
somewhat from the ordinary one, shown as #2077 and #2078, be-
cause it encompasses a parallel section of rope. Only one tuck is
required, however, but this is taken under two parts simultaneously,
as shown in the illustration.
2090. The ordinary method of lashing a chest or trunk is shown
here. A piece ofrope about clothesline size is employed. The lashing
is started with a Noose (#1114) or a Running Bowline (#1117),
and a series of hitches follows, which may be two to five in number.
These are taken along the length of the chest. The end is then rove
through the becket on the chest end, and passed the length of the
bottom with a series of Crossing Knots (#2077). After the rope has
been rove through the becket on the other end, it is half hitched to
the original Running Bowline. The whole lashing is now set up be-
fore a second Half Hitch is added.
If there is a long end, the lashing is continued as follows: The end
is led around the nearest hitch and hove taut. It is next led back to
the farthest unsecured hitch, and hove taut and hitched. In this way,
it is led back and forth until the rope is expended or all the original
hitches around the chest are secured. An Overhand Knot may be
added close up to the final Half Hitch.
r 339 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2091. Many sailors keep their sea chests lashed at all times to dis-
courage prying, particularly when a lock is untrustworthy. The
method of lashing shown here admits of opening the lid without
casting off the turns of the lashing, which is a great convenience.
A Noose, preferably an eye spliced one, is passed around one end
of the chest and the rope end is rove downward through the becket
of the same end. A Crossing Knot is added at the bottom and the
end is rove up through the opposite becket. A hitch is passed around
the second end, with a Crossing Knot at the bottom, and the end is
then secured to the Eye Splice as in #2080.
To open this lashing: Cast off the final knot and slip the original
Noose and the hitch at the other end down over their respective
ends. This allows the lid to be opened.
2092. To lash a chest with Marline Hitches: Stand it on end and
put a Noose around the top, then, beginning near the top, put on a
series of snug Single Hitches. Each of these, after being formed, is
hove snug below the preceding one, which capsizes it into a Marline
Hitch.
2093. To remove Marline Hitches quickly and easily, remove all
other complications in the rope and then drop the hitches to the
floor. Remove the chest and haul the lower end of the lashing up
through the center of the turns. This unties the series in the manner
described for Trick Knot # 2582 .
2094. Instead of starting a lashing with a Noose, it is sometimes
started with a hitch around the girth. A Crossing Knot (# 2077 ) is
added to the working end on the reverse side and the working end
is half hitched to the ring, eye or loop with which the standing end
is fitted.
2095. A most expeditious way to tie small parcels and rolls is with
Knot #1227. The lashing having been put on, tie a Half Knot with
the two ends. Lead the upper end to a position below the lower end
of the Half Knot, as pictured in the left diagram. Then draw the
knot taut and add a Half Hitch around the lower part with the
working end.
2096. A lashing that passes around the girth only of an object,
without having any frapping turns, is termed at sea a stop or a
stopping. Furled sails are “stopped” and sails that are to be “set fly-
ing” are first “put up in stops.”
The common knot for finishing off a stopping is the Reef or
Square Knot.
2097. For stopping rolls of moderate circumference— rugs, papers,
and such— nothing can be snugger than the Constrictor Knot
(# 1 249). But as the Constrictor Knot binds so tightly that it must
be cut or broken to release an object, it is not suitable for rope unless
it is slipped as # 1 2 50 .
2098. In racing craft, light sails are “sent up in stops,” that is, they
are tied in a long roll with a series of light stops before hoisting. At
[ 34 ° ]
LASHINGS AND SLINGS
the proper moment they are “broken out” by hauling on the sheet.
To set or make up a jib or staysail in stops: Fold the sail lengthwise
so that the clew projects beyond the luff, and the luff and bunt are
parallel. Then roll up the bunt tightly to the luff and stop at the
width of every cloth or seam, with a single piece of sail twine tied
in a Reef Knot. Omit the head stop. At either side of the projecting
clew put on a double stop.
2099. To make up a spinnaker: Bring the two clews, or the clew
and tack, together and, holding the head at a loose stretch, put long
zigzag folds in the sail as pictured. Be careful that the clew and tack
are both accessible. Stop the sail at even intervals with a single yarn
if adequate. Leave an appreciable length at the head without any
stop, as there is little pull there and in a light wind the sail may fail
to break out. At the foot put on a double stop.
The spinnaker is a very light sail and too heavy a stop may damage
it. On small boats white woolen knitting yarn makes a good stop and
may be used single or double as required. On a very small open boat
I have seen candle wicking used on a sail that scarcely rated any
stops. Every man has his own technique for making up sails in stops,
but the principle does not vary.
2100. When a heavy swell is running and there is practically no
wind, there is always danger of the sail breaking out before it is
wanted. Under these circumstances a sail may be made up with a
“chain stitch.” The rope required is very long, so that, when break-
ing it out, one man should “run away” with it aft, while another
stands by at the clew, to run away with a second length when the
time arrives. This was tried, when twine was lacking, on a Genoa
jib and worked satisfactorily. But under some circumstances it seems
possible that it might foul and perhaps injure the sail.
2101. Colors are sent aloft in stops to prevent their fouling in the
The upper end of the lashing shown is the downhaul end
ot the halyard which is bent to the lower end of the hoist. Double the
flag by laying head and foot together, then roll it up tightly.
Studding sails were once sent up in the manner last described or
else they were stopped with rope yarns. In both cases they were
stopped to their yards. They were sent aloft abaft the square sails
on the weather side, and forward on the leeward side. The stops
were cut by a sailor, who stood on the yardarm to which the stud-
ding sail was clewed.
In a light wind, a spinnaker sometimes has a rope with a Stopper
Knot in the end. The rope is laid up outside the sail. The upper stop,
which is double, is made fast to the knot, and about every fourth
stop is fast to the rope.
Sometimes a sheet is laid up to the peak and stopped in, the end
being brought to deck outside all. This insures instar t breaking out.
341 ]
imuwiutt
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2102. Shear leg lashing is much like seizing, but is on a much larger
scale. Start with a Clove Hitch around one leg, then pass a series ol
round turns, eight or nine, rather loosely. Put them on just tightly
enough so that the several frapping turns which are to be added will
heave the round turns closely together between the two legs. The
lashing is finished off with a Clove Hitch around the second leg.
Nail cheeks to the posts when practicable.
2103. A pole or post for a scaffolding. A tall pole is built up with
a series of parallel poles. The joints are evenly staggered. The bigger
firs are at the bottom of the pole and the butt of an upper fir rests
on the head of a lower one. There is a lashing above and below each
joint, consisting of four to eight turns. These are first made hand
taut and then are hove taut with a marlingspike. After this they are
wedged, the wedge always being driven downward from above.
2104. A shear leg lashing is more secure if taken with racking
turns. Several frapping turns are added with the two ends, which are
then reef knotted together. When the shears are opened the lashing
is further tightened by the process.
2105. Tripod lashings are made with seven or eight loose turns
Frapping turns are taken in the two intervals between the three legs,
one of the rope ends being expended in each interval. These crossing
turns may be finished off with any of the three knots shown in the
previous chapter at the bottom of page 327. In the tripod shown
here the center leg is lashed in a direction opposite the two side legs.
When the tripod is erected the feet may have to be made fast to
each other to prevent spreading.
2106. A good way to pass pole lashings (#2103) is to tie as pic-
tured here, and then tighten one turn at a time with a marlingspike.
This is discussed as Knot # 1 240.
2107. A lashing that is passed the same as #2105 but the odd leg
is laid parallel with the other two instead of opposite. If the lashing
is made too taut it will be necessary to stake out the feet.
2108. To support the tackle of a shears take a round turn with
a heavy strap as pictured, and hook the tackle to this.
2109. Frapping turns in a lashing are similar to the crossing turns
in a seizing. Around large spars frapping turns give great leverage
and often provide all the power that is necessary to tighten the lash-
ing.
2110. A shears requires the support of a single guy which may be
led to a mast, a tree, or a distant stake. If led to a stake, the guy is
sometimes braced with a pole in the manner that a clothes pole is
elevated. If erected on deck, the feet of the shears will require nailed
cleats to prevent shifting.
2111. To suspend a tackle block under a tripod, put a Bale Sling
Hitch over the top of the pole of the center leg and woric it well
down on the pole.
[ 34 2 .1
LASHINGS AND SLINGS
2112. Esparteiro gives this method of lashing four legs; it is similar
to Seizing #3398.
2113. A derrick consists of a mast and boom. Three or four guys
are made fast to a Masthead Knot at the top, and the lower ends are
fast to stakes. The boom is secured to the mast as pictured.
2114. A square or transom lashing is used in scaffolding, temporary
bridge building, trellises, grape arbors, etc. The ends of the f rapping
turns are reef knotted together.
2115. A crossed lashing is used when one spar is vertical, the other
horizontal. It is also used when battens are lashed or seized to shrouds
instead of ratlines. Frapping turns will add to the security.
2116. A square or right-angle lashing from the outrigger of a
South Sea Island boat, shown to me by Alexander Brown of the
Mariners’ Museum. A similar practice in basketry is found on the
common market baskets of the British West Indies. It fastens the
handle of the basket to the rim.
2117. Fishing strengthens and arrests further damage to spars
when they are sprung, cracked or split. Several small spars serve as
splints for a larger one, and the interstices are strengthened with old
oars, handspikes, etc., for a distance much longer than the actual
injury. Seizings of rope with riding turns are applied at intervals;
these should be wide enough to cover approximately one third of
the total surface of the repaired area. The lashings are tightened
with marlingspikes and handspikes, and are made doubly secure with
wooden wedges.
2118. The wedges for fishing are wide and flat with the outer
edges rounded so they will not injure the lashing.
2119. 2120, 2121. Boat lashings are hove taut with lanyards that
are secured either to an eye, a ring, or a deck bolt. As boat lashings
should be ready at all times for instant removal they are applied with
that purpose in mind. A series of loops are passed and the end is made
fast to the last loop, often with a Slipped Half Hitch (# 1664).
2122. Boat gripes are made of several thicknesses of canvas. For-
merly they were of Sinnet #2976 and #3477, or (the best practice)
of sword matting (#2964 and #3817). The lanyard may be spliced
to the ring or it may be secured with a Long Running Eye.
2123. If a boat is to be lashed while on the davits, the gripe lan-
yards may be coiled and the coil rove halfway through the gripe
rings. One end of the coil is then passed around the davit and the
two ends are toggled together with a fid. The gripes are made taut
at the upper end.
If a boat is to remain long uncovered, particularly in the tropics,
a narrow strip of wood termed a stretcher is placed between the
gunnels to prevent warping. The gripes shrink when wet and slacken
when dry, which puts a constant strain on the boat.
f 343 i
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2124. In lashing a wagon or truck load, the length of a lashing is
variable. A Loop Knot on the bight (Harness Loop # 1050 or Farm-
er’s Loop #1054) can be put in at the proper length and a lashing
made as shown here.
2125. To finish off such a lashing, bring the end up through a
lower ring or hook and expend it with a series of tight turns or
hitches. Reeve the end below the final turn and between two of the
lashing turns. Work all taut and tie an Overhand Knot close to the
turns.
2126. A quicker but less dependable lashing is based on Bell Ring-
er’s Knot #1148. It is made fast in the way already described.
2127. Trucks and wagons are generally fitted along the sides with
a series of rings, hooks, stake holes or else with a superstructure hav-
ing lengthwise boards to lash to. With a smooth and even load, which
is to be tarpaulin-covered, pass a series of crosswise lashings over the
top of the load and then add two lengthwise ones with Crossing
Knots at the top wherever they pass the vertical ropes. Secure one
end partway up one side and well forward and put a Crossing Knot
loosely around the first and second upright. Do the same with the
third and fourth and then the fifth and sixth until all the uprights
around the load are taken care of in pairs. Then tighten from the
beginning. Add another staggered row of knots above this, draw taut
and the lashing will resemble the second drawing if the load is a soft
one; but if it is a rigid one, the up-and-down ropes will merely stag-
ger and will not meet. The lashing r completed with a lengthwise
member along the top.
2128. In starting wagonload lashings a half hitched Clove Hitch
is frequently used by teamsters.
2129. In finishing off a wagon lashing Two Half Hitches is gen-
erally used.
2130. In passing a Crossing Knot around two upright parts of a
wagon lashing, lead the working end underneath the two parts and
back under its own standing part. Heave the two upright parts half-
way together before leading the end forward to the next pair. In
heaving on the next pair the first pair will receive additional tight-
ening and may close together.
2131. Everything movable on the deck of a ship should be lashed
when not in use. Boats, scuttle butts, spare spars, harness cask, sail
bench, hen coops, blacksmith’s forge, chopping block, workbenches,
f 344 i
LASHINGS AND SLINGS
etc., are all secured. Many of these articles have permanent lanyards
attached to them by which they are made fast.
The essence of good lashing is to first place the turns so that the
object is held against shifting in any direction and, secondly, to
tighten these turns by heaving on them with a sidewise pull at half
length, which compounds the tension of the whole fabric.
2132. Movable objects about deck are generally lashed with a lan-
yard having a Long Running Eye in the end, and this is usually made
fast to a ringbolt.
2133. A whale ship is fitted with a lash rail to secure things to, but
this is very seldom found in other craft. An oil or water cask is lashed
as pictured. Round turns are hove together with frapping turns.
2134. This illustrates a single turn around the middle part of a
lashing. It is one of the best of devices for tightening a rope.
2135. A scuttle butt lies on its bilge and requires chocks to make
a firm cradle for it to rest on. Sometimes small tackles are used to
set up lashings of this sort, but usually rings and eyes are sufficient.
2136. The turns around a horizontal cask or scuttle butt often are
set up with nothing save frapping turns.
2137. The end of a lanyard may be finished off around two parts
in such a manner as to heave them together and so add to the effec-
tiveness of the lashing.
2138. One of the most common ways of securing the end of a
lashing is with Two Half Hitches made fast to an eye.
2139. Scuttle butts sometimes have hinged metal straps fitted with
rings in the ends and these are lashed to ringbolts on the deck.
Catharpins were sometimes frapped together in the manner of a
lashing, although they were more often led through a euphroe or
centipede block. Catharpins were of small stuff and their purpose
was to take up the slack in the stays, to prevent jerking and slatting.
They are pictured on page 533 .
Besides tightening a lashing, frapping turns are employed to draw
together the falls of a tackle, in order to tighten them, to strengthen
them, or to hold them secure. The halyards of a sailing yacht at an-
chor are often frapped at night, to prevent slatting against the mast
and keeping guests awake. Frappings of this nature are added with
rope yarn. In a lashing, when the length is sufficient, the end of the
rope itself is employed in frapping.
345 ]
uuu tciiii'cu
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2140. In the timber industry, rope is used in making log rafts and
in lashing loads. On the west coast huge rafts several hundred feet
in length have been lashed with chain cable and towed many hun-
dreds of miles. Log booms are found in spar yards and along rivers.
Long spars are either lashed or chained together to form an enclosure
around the floating logs.
Army engineers have in all past wars used a great deal of rope
lashing in bridge building, field fortification, etc. This is gone into
exhaustively in the United States Government Engineers' Field
Manual.
In raft makings after several turns of rope have been passed loosely
around two floating logs, a rack bar or pole is inserted under the
turns and the lashing tightened by twisting with the bar horizontally.
Two of these lashings are made near enough together so that the
ends of two bars can be tied to each other. The lashings of the two
must be twisted in the same direction, preferably “with the lay” of
the rope. A hard-laid rope will not stand as much twisting as a soft-
laid one.
2141. If rope is very large it will be found simpler to make up the
lashing as pictured here. It is twisted horizontally as before de-
scribed. In principle this does not differ from the surgeon’s tourni-
quet given as #1259.
2142. Ropes may be knotted as here shown and tightened with a
bar. Put a Marlingspike Hitch in one end of a rope and pry, using
the side or end of the log for a fulcrum. With large material a rack
bar will be necessary.
2143. A load of logs may be secured to a sled with a lashing
similar to #2140. A much longer bar is used and the end is made fast
to the sled.
2144. Stakes are required if a considerable number of logs are to
be lashed. Tough green saplings are cut for stakes and the tops of
these are notched and lashed together across the load. The lashings
are tightened by twisting in a vertical plane and tying the ends of the
rack bars together the same as in #2140.
2145. The knot shown here is used in lashing timbers. The edge
of the timber provides a shoulder for the end of the rope so that little
strain comes on the Slip Loop. A bight is tucked under all three
turns, then another bight through the first one.
Stones are slung under a high gear, using one or more straps of
chain, which are twisted tight with rack bars.
Slinging is the arranging of ropes or straps around an object by
means of which the object is to be hoisted and lowered, or else sus-
pended. Tools are slung when sent aloft on the end of a rope, cargo
is slung when taken aboard, a sunken vessel is slung before it is
[ 34 6 1
LASHINGS AND SLINGS
“raised,” and a sick horse is slung in its stall when it is unable to stand
without assistance.
2146. A marlingspike is slung ready for sending aloft by taking a
Single Hitch with its own lanyard around the pointed end.
2147. A simple way to sling a hammer is with a Buoy Rope Hitch.
2148. Ashore a hammer is often slung with a Clove Hitch around
the neck of the handle but a Marlingspike Hitch is often used at
sea and is preferable.
2149. To sling a pitchfork for conveyance to the mow: Lead the
end of a rope between the tines and make fast to the shank with a
Clove Hitch.
2150. A Clove Hitch placed around the peen and a Single Hitch
near the end of the handle is good sound practice for hoisting a
hammer.
2151. A crowbar may be sent to the upper floors of a building,
which is being wrecked or is under construction, or it may be low-
ered into a cellar or well. Tie a Rolling Hitch (# 1734 ) to the
handle end and add a Single Hitch near the working end.
2152. To sling a shovel for lowering down a well, make a Becket
Hitch fast to the handle.
2153. A manly sledge hammer , grub hoe, pickax , mattock or other
heavy-headed tool should have the rope led under the head. Pass the
end of a rope around the neck of the handle and twist the end and
standing parts together a number of turns. Bring the standing part
under the head and put two Single Hitches on the handle, spaced
as pictured, one at the shank and the other at the grip.
2154. To lower a bucket by the handle and then to recover the
rope from aloft: The handle is held firmly while lowering and is
released instantly when the long end, which has been retained, is
pulled and the knot is spilled. Objects may be lowered in this way
from a window or down a stair well, saving many steps.
Middle the rope and pass two bights, one after the other, as pic-
tured. Both ends are retained at the higher level, but the working
end is merely to spill the knot after the object has reached bottom.
Lower away with the standing end, at the same time paying out the
spill line. When the object brings up, jerk the spill line or working
endy which slips the knot, so that the rope may be retrieved.
2155. If the rope is too short for the knot just described, a basket
with a flat bail may be lowered by means of a Single Hitch. The
end of the rope should have an Overhand Knot. Adjust very care-
fully and test to make certain that it has nipped before lowering the
basket. When the basket touches the ground, shake the rope to re-
lease the knot. This knot may be used on any flat-handled container
such as a bucket, can-o-pail, or suitcase.
[ 347 ‘J
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2156. Knight’s Seamanship gives this strap for sending sails aloft.
A selvagee should be employed as it is less liable than rope to pinch
and bruise the canvas. The large Doubled Eye does not have to be
unbent in order to remove the strap. It is merely necessary to cut the
stopping.
2157. A better way perhaps is to hook to the block with a Cat’s-
Paw (#1891) and then to lead the sling down the back of the sail
with the two parts well separated. Pass the sling under the sail and
lead it back through the legs that were formed. From each side twist
and seize in a turn around each of the two legs. When the two seiz-
ings are cut the sling spills instantly.
2158. To sling a plank staging overside : Tie a Marlingspike
Hitch and insert one end of the plank. Do likewise with the other
end.
2159. To sling a plank on edge : This is sometimes required as a
fender when tying up to a stone pier that has neither stringpiece nor
piling. Make a Clove Hitch much larger than the girth of the plank,
and work the ends around until the knot is in the form shown.
2160. There are several knots that may be employed in slinging
a ladder horizontally for use as a staging, the best known of these
being the Spanish Bowline (#1087). Others are given on pages 198
and 199. A loop is placed over the ends of each side post or rail and
a wide board is laid over the rungs to complete the staging. In Chap-
ter 1 2 several other Double Loops are given that will serve the same
purpose and the subject of stagings is also discussed further in Chap-
ter 2, under “Carpenter.”
2161. For slinging a bundle of shingles , a carpenter generally
employs the Timber Hitch.
2162. At sea if a small spar or some other lengthy object is to be
hoisted on end through the tops, a Timber Hitch is made at the
lower end and a series of Single Hitches added, finished off gener-
ally with a Clove Hitch at the upper end.
F or towing, a spar is slung in the same way.
2163. The Bale or Barrel Sling is the most generally useful
method of slinging. Sacks of sugar and flour, barrels, and bales are all
slung with it. The sling is passed under the object to be hoisted and
the longer bight is then rove through the upper one. The two turns
which are formed around the bale should be well separated.
2164. If sufficient length is left, after the Bale Sling is in place, the
longer bight is made fast to the cargo hook with a Cat’s-Paw, which
is the most practical of Hook Hitches. It is easily formed by grasp
e 548 ]
LASHINGS AND SLINGS
ing two bights and twisting the sling three or four turns away from
you. The bights are then clapped together and put over the hook.
A stone is slung as the foregoing except that a chain is used and
the loop of the chain is hooked directly without having any hitch
put into it.
2165. The illustration shows the common way of turning over a
stone while pulling it out of a hole; this doubles the power of the
2166. The chain strap may be secured with a Blackwall Hitch
to the tackle hook. It is one of the few knots that can be tied in chain
without fear of jamming.
2167. A Cask Sling for use when the slings are short. The ends of
slings, unless they are made selvagee fashion, are short spliced to-
gether and the strand ends are “cross seized. ,, (See Splice #2639.)
2168. If a cask is to be hoisted with the end of a line, a Cow Hitch
is tied around it and a Bowline Knot tied with the end to the stand-
ing part. This is the same knot formation as the Bale Sling Hitch
but it is tied in the end instead of the bight.
2169. A Butt or Hogshead Sling is made of heavy hawser-laid
rope with a thimble eye cast in one end. The end is rove through the
thimble and the Noose that is formed is put around one end of the
hogshead and the other end hitches around the other end of the
hogshead and is made fast to the standing part with Two Half
Hitches. In such, heavy rope the cargo block is hooked directly to
the bight or span of the slings.
2170. The cargo block pictured here is from Diderot’s Encyclo-
pedia of 1762. No knotting is required and the cask or pipe has little
tendency to twist or turn in mid-air.
2171. Can hooks are used to lift a barrel by the chines.
2172. A four-strand rope has a Round Eye formed in the center
by reeving one end through the strands of the other. A round
thimble is seized in and chine hooks are spliced in at either end of
the span. Nowadays this is usually made of chain.
2173. An older way of rigging can hooks or chine hooks that
serves the same purpose. A grommet is made through the chine hooks
and the eye is seized in with a round seizing.
2174. A crate sling . The slings are passed lengthwise and crossed
in the mouth of the hook. The two parts are strapped across the ends
to prevent their closing together and spilling the load.
2175. If a single sling is too short, two slings may be bent together
with a Strap Bend ($ 1493).
[ 349 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
217 6
2176. There are a number of ways in which to hoist or lower an
* x
open barrel or cask that is partly full. The simplest is to take the
bight of a rope fifteen to twenty feet long, stand the cask over the
center of it and half knot the ends loosely across the top. Open the
Half Knot and slip one half around either side of the bilge. This
makes a Single Hitch on either side of the cask. The ends are bent
together.
2177. Another way is to first tie a large Overhand Knot, open it
wide and arrange it flat on the ground as pictured. Stand the cask
over the center part and lift the knot until the cask is surrounded.
This makes a Marline Hitch at either side of the cask, which is
more secure than the Single Hitch. Bend the ends together or bend
one end to the bight of the other.
2178. To hoist an open cask with a slings: Stand the cask over the
center part of the slings. Then put a Single Hitch with either side
of the slings a little way below the head. Make a Cat’s-Paw at the
top of the slings and hook to the cargo block. Put on stops where
the hitches cross the lengthwise parts of the slings.
If the slings is very long, double it and tie as before but with
a doubled line. Hook the two loops to the tackle block.
2179. To hoist an open and loaded tub: First lash a sack over the
head of the tub with several round turns of marline to keep the con-
tents from slopping. Make a figure-eight turn in your slings and set
the tub over the X crossing at the center. Bring the two bights to-
gether and put them over the hook. Lead a smaller rope around the
bilge of the tub, adding knots wherever there is a crossing. It is well
to stop the Crossing Knots with a few turns of marline as there is
a chance of their slipping down.
2180. If an open cask is to be slung with a short slings, seize in an
eye and arrange as pictured. Put on a cross lashing with small stuff
around each end of the cask. Use the Clove Hitch where the small
stuff crosses the slings. There was a time when practically all ship’s
stores were kept in casks, and these methods were of vital impor-
tance. Nowadays fishermen occasionally use them.
2181. To hoist or lower a boiler or other heavy cylindrical object,
use doubled slings and mouse the cargo hook stoutly. Keep the slings
well separated by lashings across the two ends of the boiler.
2182. To sling a coil of rope horizontally : Reeve the end of a rope
through the center of the coil and make fast the end to the standing
part with Two Half Hitches.
[ 35 ° 1
LASHINGS AND SLINGS
2183. To sling a coil of rope on end: Reeve the end of a rope
through a coil and make it fast to the middle of a stout billet of
wood, which will act as a toggle.
2184. An old method by which to sling a gun or cannon : Arrange
the slings as pictured. The trunnions must be kept free so that the
gun can be lowered directly into the carriage. If a gun is to be merely
moved about deck the slings may be seized around the cascabel and a
stout oak plug driven into the muzzle. Sometimes this plug was fur-
nished with shivs for direct hoisting, in which case a block was made
fast to the cascabel.
2185. To sling an earthenware pipe or other heavy cylindrical
object that has a shoulder: Double two short slings and reeve one
end of each through the bight of the other. Insert the pipe as shown.
2186. If the shoulder is slight a Jug or Jar Sling (#1142) is safer
as it does not give when the load is eased away.
2187. When a boat is hoisted on a crane she has to be slung but,
when hoisted on davits, eyebolts are provided for the tackles. The
crane slings have to be arranged to dissipate the strain on the struc-
ture of the boat and, as there is little or nothing to fasten to, the lash-
ing may sometimes be quite elaborate. The method given here is
from Luce and Ward. A wooden spreader should be inserted amid-
ship to strengthen the gunnels.
2188. If a heavy boat is to be hauled ashore on rollers and the boat
is not sufficiently strong to make use of such rings and eyebolts as are
provided, more rope is called for. Sometimes there is a mast to tie to,
but generally it is best to pass a rope horizontally around the boat
and suspend it at intervals. If the painter is secured well down on the
stem, which is the proper place to tow from, the strap around the
boat may be stopped to it merely to hold the slings at the proper
level, but it should not bear any part of the pull.
2189. A “ lady’s chair” from a whale ship. This was made from an
oil cask and was provided so that the captain’s wife, who often
accompanied her husband on voyages of three or four years’ length,
could be hoisted and lowered to the whaleboat whenever boats went
ashore or gammed with other ships at sea.
2190. A passenger basket used in offshore work in the Orient,
from a photograph taken in Natal. Passengers are landed in small
boats and rowed ashore. Many important harbors in the East are not
provided with wharves, and many are so unhealthy that ships do not
care to tie up even where there are facilities.
2-187
[ 3 5 1 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2191. To sling a mm who is incapacitated. Tie either a Portu-
guese Bowline, a Bowline in the bight or else a Spanish Bowline.
Put each leg through one loop of the Bowline and make a Single
Hitch in the standing part around the man’s chest, close under his
armpits.
2192. To sling a horse? for hoisting from a lighter: Take a length
of heavy canvas, one and a half times the girth of the horse and one
cloth wide. Double this lengthwise, then middle and sew a three-inch
(circumference) boltrope to the selvage edge down each side of the
sling, leaving loops at both ends two feet long and splicing the ends
together. A breastplate, a breeching and a martingale of doubled
canvas six inches wide are also to be made. One end of each of these
is sewed to the sling and the other end has a strong eyelet hole
worked into it. The boltrope of the sling proper has two cringles
(#2843) worked into it for lashing the lanyards of the breastplate
and breeching. The martingale eyelet is lashed to the halter ring and
the head of the horse should be hove well down. A strong lanyard
is lashed to one of the large loops in the ends of the sling proper.
When the sling is in place this lanyard is employed to seize the two
supporting loops and hold them together as snugly as possible. The
other lanyards are spliced to the martingale, the breastplate and the
breeching eyelets. If the horse is a heavy or a fractious one, kicking
straps may be added. Be certain that the animal is well blindfolded.
2193. Odd-shaped merchandise will have various projections
which may be utilized in lashing. This usually simplifies the task
instead of complicating it. Such objects may be put into a cargo
net if not too heavy. All small packages are handled in this way in-
cluding the passengers’ luggage.
The construction of a cargo net is described in Chapter 41.
2194. Steel Wire Cargo Slings are fitted with oversize thimbles as
pictured, and the doubled wire itself is racked with marline and then
served over. Often it is covered with hose pipe.
2195. Sling “dogs” are closely related to can and span hooks (page
349). Logs are hoisted with single “dogs” which are driven into the
log with a maul; bales of wool, cotton, jute and Manila fiber are
hoisted with forked or double dogs, which are also hammered into
place and later removed with a crowbar.
2196. A tank is slung with an iron toggle inserted in the manhole.
2197. Inside tongs are employed in hoisting iron pipes and small
tanks.
2198. Outside tongs are employed in hoisting ice, baled hay and
other merchandise that will not be injured by the treatment.
2199. To shorten an ordinary slings after a Bale Hitch has been
applied. Arrange the slack into two equal loops, half knot the two
loops together, and clap them over the hook.
[ 3 5 2 1
The Monkey’s Fist is a spherical covering with six surface parts
presenting a regular over-one-and-under-one weave. This weave is
commonly doubled or tripled to present an appearance that super-
ficially resembles a Turk’s-Head. Like the Turk’s-Head, the knot
is tied with a single strand, but here the resemblance ceases. The
Turk’s-Head diagram consists of a single line; the common Mon-
key’s Fist diagram has three separate lines, which are best repre-
sented by three interlocking circles, in the best Ballantine tradition.
To tie a knot on this diagram with a single strand, it is necessary to
complete each circle in turn— that is, to double or triple it, as the
case may be— and when this has been done to deflect the strand into
another circle which is completed in turn before commencing the
third and last circle.
The first person to picture and name the “Monkey’s Fist” was E.
N. Little in Log Book Notes (New York, 1888). But no directions
were given for tying. It was adequately described for the first time
by Dr. Cyrus L. Day in 1935.
The knot is used on the end of a heaving line and is commonly tied
over a small heavy ball of stone, iron, tinfoil, lead, marble or glass.
This heavy core is required to carry the weight of the heaving line
when it is cast in a coil from ship to wharf, or from ship to towboat
or lighter.
At sea the knot has been tied in three ways as shown in #2200 and
#2202. These three knots, and some of the smaller Turk’s-Heads,
appear to be the only knots of record that have been used for cov-
erings.
[ 353 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
Some of the coverings that are to be shown may be used to cover
balls, knobs and cane heads; the rectangular ones can be used to
cover doorstops, book stops and paperweights. In general the draw-
ings indicate the logical shapes or the knots but the proportions are
capable of considerable molding and stretching.
2200. The Monkey’s Fist. The first illustration shows the dia-
gram form of the regular Monkey’s Fist. It may be noted that this
is also the diagram of the Three-Strand Manrope Knot, the Three-
Strand Diamond Knot, and the Three-Strand Footrope Knot.
All four of these have a regular alternate over-one-and-under-one
lead.
Ordinarily the knot is tied three-ply— that is, the lead has three
parallel parts; less often it has two and four ply. To simplify the
drawings the Two-Ply Knot is the one that is often illustrated even
when a Three-Ply Knot is described.
To tie: Start at the feather end of the arrow and make three com-
plete circles to the right. Deflect the rope or cord and make three
complete circles to the left, over the first circles. Tuck the end back,
under the first circles, and continue to tuck, over, under, over, under,
until the third set of three circles is complete. Insert a core if desired
or draw up without one. With three-ply the core is optional but
with four-ply it is required.
2201. A second method for tying the same knot. Make three left-
hand circles each inside the previous one. The second cycle starts
with the inside circle and spirals outward, and the third one likewise.
In both Knots #2200 and #2201 the ends appear on the surface
diagonally opposite each other, at either end of one of the parts.
2202. The sailor commonly makes the knot around the fingers of
his left hand. He takes three turns around the fingers, the middle
finger and the ring finger being slightly separated. He then adds
three more turns at right angles to the first three turns and through
the two fingers that were separated. The final three turns are wound
outside the second three turns and inside the first three turns. The
knot is worked taut around a large marble, rubber ball or whatever
is handy. It should be pounded smooth with a mallet. The sailor’s
way of finishing off is to side splice the end of the rope to the stand-
ing part about a foot from the knot, and to put on a seizing close
up to the knot. The splice is also whipped near the end. This does
not differ from Knot &2201.
2203. As the Monkey’s Fist is based on a diagram of three inter-
locked circles it seemed probable that other knots could be tied on
diagrams of one, two, and four circles. A five-circle diagram did not
promise much as it has two five-sided compartments which seem too
open to be practical.
A single circle was tried which produced Single, Double, Triple,
and Quadruple Overhand Knots in a napkin-ring form. Number
2204, of two circles, gives two interlocked rings. Number 2205 is
the regular three-circle diagram, giving the Monkey’s Fist that has
been already described; and #2206 makes a very satisfactory and
much larger knot on four interlocking circles.
354 1
THE MONKEY’S FIST AND U THER KNOT COVERINGS
2204. A Monkey’s Fist on a two-circle diagram may be tied in
several ways, of which the following seemed to be the most practical.
Tie a Double or Triple Overhand Knot, then tuck one end once
as pictured and the other end either once or twice according to
whether a double or triple knot is wished. The illustrations show a
doubled one. Draw up the Overhand Knot first and then the second
cycle.
2205. This shows a fourth way to tie the regular Monkey’s Fist
of six parts that has already been discussed as #2200, #2201, and
#2202. The method was suggested by the foregoing way of tying
a two-circle knot. Begin by tying a Triple Overhand Knot. With
the lower left end take three turns around the Overhand Knot, as
diagram 1. Then with the remaining upper end make three turns
outside the last turns that were taken, and inside the initial Triple
Overhand Knot. Draw the knot taut and side splice the end to the
standing part. Tie around a ball if desired. The two ends of this
knot are laterally opposite each other instead of diagonally opposite
as in $2201, $2202, $2203.
2206. A four-circle diagram coincides with the edges of a cubocta-
hedron. Each square is bounded by four triangles and each triangle
by three squares. The single line of the diagram represents the knot
doubled. It is quite a handful and it will be found easier to project
it by pinning out on the cork board than to try to tie it directly
in hand. The knot is handsome and regular and so large that even the
two-ply specimen requires a core.
This form provides the normal limit for a regular Monkey’s Fist
diagram based on interlocking circles, as beyond this point com-
partments of large size appear which make irregular knots.
2207. We will now go back to the original three-cycle diagram
($2200) and will tie each cycle with two different sets of leads
(inner and outer), six sets in all, and each of these six will be fol-
lowed twice, making a Two-Ply Knot. The first cycle, consisting
of four clockwise circles , is pinned out flat, each circle inside the
previous one. The rope is then diverted to the second cycle, and
the cord is tucked counterclockwise over two and under two. Hav-
ing finished laying out the first two of the second set of four circles ,
the sequence is sdtered and becomes under two and over two, for
the remaining two circles before entering the third and last cycle .
The end is now led counterclockwise and continues two more full
circles in unbroken over-two-znd-under-two sequence. It then alters
to under-two-over-two sequence to finish the last two circles . This
will require a core (a ball) even for a Two-Ply Knot. A Three-
Ply or Four-Ply Knot may be tied if a large enough core is pro-
vided. The knot tied is four times the size of $2200.
2208. This knot gives an interesting example in projection. If
$2207 is tied with single instead of parallel lines it will be exactly
the same knot as this. It is very difficult at times to detect the differ-
ences and similarities of two knots even when they are logically
drawn.
r 355 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
7.7. i 3
7.7 1 S'
2209. A rectangular block may be covered with any number ot
strands parallel with the edges, in regular over-one-and-under-one
sequence, provided the strands are evenly spaced to accord with the
proportions of the block. A Multi-Strand Knot is more easily tied
than a single-cord one, as the length of strand to be reeved is much
shorter.
Take a block and measure its proportions. Notch the edges so that
all spaces are even or very nearly so. Except at the corners the spaces
should be half length. Lead parallel cords singly around the block
lengthwise, sufficient to fill all notches, and square knot the two ends.
Next tie a cord around the block in a sidewise direction, crossing the
first-laid cords at each side at right angles. If there is an even number
of notches in the length of the block the first and the last tuck on the
side will have contrary over-and-under. But if the number of notches
is odd the first and the last tuck will be the same . An adjacent parallel
strand will be tucked with opposite lay until all strands of the set are
in place. Then lay the strands of the third and final set so that the lay
for the whole block is alternately over and under. Proceed to double,
triple or quadruple the lay of the knot, and scatter the ends well.
Pull them taut and cut them off close.
2210. Any block knot may be tied as a true Monkey’s Fist— that
is, with a single cord. This may be done either directly or else by
paralleling the knot last described, which in such a case serves merely
as a clue.
To tie the single-cord knot directly: Wind the cord around the
block, end for end, neither too tightly nor too closely. When a side
is covered turn a corner as in the third diagram and add the second
circuit (fourth diagram), turn into the third circuit as in the fourth
diagram and complete the knot. Use a packing needle with blunted
point for a tool.
Knot #2208 is actually a Cube Knot of the present series,
2 X 2 X 2 in proportion, and the original Monkey’s Fist (#2201)
may also be tied as a cube covering, 1 X 1 X 1 .
2211. This is the “Tweenie” (Knot #525) of Chapter 3, doubled.
It has some of the characteristics of the Monkey’s Fist and, having
three parts, it will fit in between the two-part #2204 and the six-
part #2202.
2212. 2213. The smaller Turk’s-Heads are often used for knob
coverings and are followed or doubled, sometimes as many as six
times. - - .
2214. The Chinese Button diagram (#600) makes a good cov-
ering of nine parts.
2215. Larger Turk’s-Heads than this have been used for spherical
coverings. Five leads and four bights appears to be about the prac-
tical limit, as the proportions soon become ungainly and the end
compartments overlarge.
The first spherical covering that I attempted was at the suggestion
of Eugene E. du Pont, who thought that such a knot would be
effective on the knob of an automobile gearshift lever.
Spherical covering may also be utilized over smaller knots on the
ends of manropes, bell lanyards, etc. On a small boat they make
handsome coverings for knobs on the ends of centerboard pendants,
where they save marking and wear on the top of the centerboard
box. Made of small material, they serve well as buttons on garments.
[ 356 ]
THE MONKEY’S FIST AND OTHER KNOT COVERINGS
2216. This knot is normally an oblate spheroid, an excellent shape
for the end of a centerboard pendant or a gearshift lever knob. 1 he
slight flattening at the poles will not be noticed if a spherical core
is used.
Make a copy of the diagram twice the size of the original and
place the paper on the center of the cork board. Take about thirty
feet of fishline or other material and reeve half the length through
the center hole. Lay the top section of cord along the line of the
diagram, pinning it at frequent intervals. Whenever the cord crosses
itself in regular numerical sequence at a point that is marked by a
circley tuck the working end under the bight that is to be crossed.
At all other points the cord is overlaid and the circles disregarded.
Follow the lead around a second time, laying the second length
parallel with the first. Then place the knot over the core that is to
be covered and work it into loose spherical shape. Follow the lead
a third or fourth time if desired, using the other end of the cord when
it is needed. Gradually work the cord taut. Both ends are brought
to the surface under the same part, pulled tight and cut off short.
They will generally shrink from sight. The knot may then be shel-
lacked and painted.
2217. This is perhaps the most practical knot of the series. It was
originally described and illustrated for the Sportsman Magazine and
I have since met several individuals who had tied knots from the
original description. My cousin, Hope Knowles, at the age of eleven
tied one without assistance by following the printed directions. A
photograph of the knot is shown on the end of a bell rope among
the frontispieces.
If to be used on the end of a centerboard pendant, bore a hole
through the wooden knob and countersink an Overhand Knot into
the hole. Fill the gap in the hole with plastic wood, place the knot
over the core and work it snug.
2218. This knot is quite symmetrical and spherical and is possibly
the handsomest of the lot. Tie as already directed for #2216.
Note: It is characteristic of this knot, when it is first completed,
that the regular basket weave (over one, under one) appears marred.
The lead running from intersections 17 to 8 goes under at TWO
consecutive crossing points, 29 & 30. Once the lead is doubled in both
directions, and slack removed from the knot, however, the offending
part recedes beneath the surface. It is replaced by the perfectly regular
square of knot parts intersecting at 36-50-23-1. The ball or other core
MUST go beneath the completed knot, as illustrated, for this to occur.
(This peculiarity also applies to #2219, #2220, #2223 & #2232.)
2219. A prolate spheroid . The bulk of any knot, as well as its
shape, is of course dependent on the number and disposition of its
parts. This particular knot ha 5 sixteen parts around the central girth
and twenty-four parts around its lengthwise circuit, which account
for its elongated shape. But the shape of these knots, as with the
Turk’s-Heads, is capable of much distortion without detracting
from their appearance, and so they may easily be tied in spherical
form if desired.
Knots #2216 and #2217 may be doubled, with one end only, but
#22 1 8 and #2219 require both ends for doubling as the two ends
have separate circuits or cycles.
If the neck of a knob is small, three or four bights around the rim
[ 357 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
will be a sufficient number, but if the neck is large in proportion to
the knot, as in a cane-head covering, six or even eight bights may on
occasion be required.
If a knob or other covering is to be tied regularly with one cord,
it is limited to a one-cycle diagram. If it has two or more cycles it
must either be tied as a Multi-Strand Knot or else it can be tied
irregularly with one cord, no matter how many cycles it has, pro-
viding one cycle is completed at a time and the cord thereafter is
deflected to another cycle as in the Monkey’s Fist, per se.
It may be well to repeat that the success of any elaborate knot
depends largely on gradual and unhurried working. Do not at any
time pull one part enough to distort the knot materially. Work from
end to end, and finally pull the ends very tight and cut them off
flush with the surface. They should shrink enough so that they will
not be in evidence.
Read the Note concerning #2218. The apparent flaw in this knot
occurs between intersections 37 & 38. When doubled, it will be covered
by the square of crossings 1-45-82-8.
2220. The four knots last shown were based on two square figures
at opposite sides of the sphere.
Read the Note concerning #2218. The irregularity in this knot
occurs between 10 & 1 1. It is camouflaged by square 1-21-26-15.
When tied and drawn together, the rims of these knots close and
the bottom half of each knot will be found to be exactly a duplicate
of the top half but slued to a different angle.
The present knot is similarly based on two triangular* figures, one
at the top and one at the bottom. Except for $ 2216 , this is the
smallest spherical covering to be given.
2221. The knot alongside is the result of an attempt to follow the
general pattern of a tennis-ball cover. It is somewhat flattened at
the poles and is perhaps the least satisfactory of the series, as it tends
to bulk considerably at the four places on the diagram where two
triangular compartments have a common side.
2222. This knot was made to cover a cane head for Robert Cush-
man Murphy. The stick was of considerable diameter so that a four-
part rim was insufficient to close evenly at the edges. So six rim
parts' were tried and found to serve well.
2223. A heavy stick, with a shallow knob having very little over-
hang, will require even more rim parts.
Read the Note concerning #2218. The irregularity in this knot
occurs between 19 & 20, and is resolved by square 1-33-38-25.
2224. By adapting the method of the Multi-Strand Button
Knot, knobs of a variety of shapes may be covered.
To tie: Select a crown from the diagrams given below (# 2224 - 31 )
of approximately the shape of the cross section wanted. Middle the
strands and stop them twice to the end of your stick as illustrated
in left top diagram. Arrange them evenly around the stick in a right
diagonal of forty-five degrees, and crown the upper ends in the
form of the diagram selected.
Take one of the lower ends, cross it over the next strand to the
left, and under the second strand. Take each one of the remaining
lower strands in turn, and tuck it to the left over one and under one.
Take one of the upper strands and tuck it downward to the right,
[358]
THE MONKEY’S FIST AND OTHER KNOT COVERINGS
over one and under one. Take each strand in turn and do likewise.
Tuck as many tiers as wished. When the length is sufficient take any
end and stick it in parallel with the opposite end. If the over-and-
under arrangement is not correct, suck it in beside the next strand
to the left or right, whichever one of the two appears most con-
venient. Tuck all strands in regular order until the whole knot has
been doubled or tripled. Scatter the ends so that the final tucks are
not all in the same neighborhood. Work the knot taut and cut the
ends off short.
An ovate object— an egg, for instance— can be covered in this way,
working both ways from the center and crowning both ends in
exactly the same w ; ay.
2225-31. Seven additional diagrams are given here from which to
choose; others may be fpund in Chapter io.
2232. A disk-shaped covering makes a particularly smart knot.
The underlying block in thickness should be about one third the
width. I have used this one on a centerboard pendant. Bore a hole
halfway through the wooden core, large enough to take a Stopper
Knot; then bore a smaller hole the rest of the way to take the rope.
Tie the knot as already directed on page 357.
Read the Note concerning #2218. The irregularity in this knot
occurs between 17 & 18, resolved by 1-2 3-34-1 2.
2233. To cover a wooden cylindrical toggle with a Three-Bight
TurkVHead. This may be done with any number of leads. If the
number of leads is divisible by four the toggle rope will enter the
cylinder at a center compartment in line with a rim crossing. If the
number of leads is divisible by two but not by four (six, ten, etc.)
the toggle rope must enter the cylinder at a center compartment that
is in line with the center of a rim bight. To tie, see the chapter on
TurkVHeads. The illustration gives an Eight-Lead, Three-Bight
TurkVHead.
2234. A toggle with a square cross section is a little more com-
plicated. If the rope is to enter at the center of a side, either a four-
cycle diagram is needed (a Multi-Strand Knot) or the bights at
either end must run parallel with the rim as shown here. The illustra-
tion gives a Ten-Lead, Four-Bight Turk’s-Head.
2235. A cylinder may be covered with any w 7 idth Four-Bight
Turk’s-Head if the toggle rope is to enter the core at the end. (See
Turk’s-Head chapter.)
2236. If the rope is to enter at the end of a stick that has a square
cross section, a Four-Bight Knot may be tied with a single cord, so
that the bights cross the corners of the ends diagonally. To do this
a Turk’s-Head must be tied in which the number of leadts is a
multiple of two , but not of four . The cord must be deflected once
as pictured, as a Turk’s-Head in which the number of leads and the
number of bights have a common divisor may not be tied regularly
with one cord. The stick pictured is covered with a Six-Lead, Four-
Bight Turk’s-Head.
[ 359 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
The block or brick coverings of page 356 have a lead that is
parallel with the sides of the block. The blocks of this page have a
diagonal lead and the lead of each knot has two cycles, so they must
be tied with two cords, or else it will be necessary at some place on
the surface to deflect the line from one cycle to the other in the
same way that the strand of a Monkey’s Fist ($2201) is deflected.
Evenly spaced notches are placed along the edges of the block
used as a core, and at each of these notches two cords cross each
other at right angles, making a 45-degree angle with the edge. The
knot about to be shown has 1X2X3 notches.
2237 . A block of 1 X 2 X 3 notches. It has a central compart-
ment on the 1 X 3 side so that it will make a symmetrical toggle if
one is wanted, or it will make a book or doorstop, or a paperweight.
The cord is deflected from one cycle to the other near the center of
the largest side. Around this compartment the cord should be pinned
with four tacks. Take a spool of black linen thread and, ignoring
the over-and-under arrangement, lead the thread once around the
complete diagram. To tie the knot: Follow above the black clue and
tuck a piece of banding alternately under and over at the crossings
except at the diagonal between the head and feather of the arrow,
where both ends of the diagonal are under.
2238 . A block with 1X2X4 notches. This is tied in the same
way as the foregoing. If it is required to be made as a toggle, the
only central compartment will be found on the 2X4 side.
2239 . To cover five sides only of a rectangular block: This makes
a basket of stiff fishline. Tie as a Multi-Strand Knot with five cords
and take the crossings alternately over and under. Turn the edges as
illustrated along the open side and make a Two-, Three-, Four- or
Five-Ply Knot. Shellac before removing from the block.
2240 . A 2 X 3 X 5 block is made as already described for #2237
and #2238. If desired, 1X3X4, 2X3X6 and 3X4X7 may be
tied in the same way, but beyond this I have not carried the knot,
and so far I have discovered none of the sort that can be tied with-
out adaptation in a single cycle diagram.
2241 . A covering for a ring or grommet . Make a loose three -
strand grommet by winding a cord in a widely and evenly spaced
helix three times around the circuit of the ring that is to be covered.
Tie the two ends together, leaving them long enough for doubling.
Count the turns and take another cord of another color or size mate-
rial and wind it the same number of turns in the opposite direction
three times around the ring. This is to act merely as a clue. Take a
longer cord of the first material and with it follow parallel with
the second cord but tucking alternately over and under at the cross-
ings. Next remove the clue and double both strands throughout or
triple and quadruple them if necessary to cover the ring. Use a wire
needle (#99!,) to tie the knot and work it taut with a pricker
(# 99 a ).
[ 3 6 ° ]
CHAPTER 30: FLAT OR TWO-DIMENSIONAL
KNOTS
... are those -which by a peculiar Name to a Ship are called Mats.
Boteler's Dialogues , circa 1634
Mats are used aboard ship for chafing gear. They are nailed to the
deck at gangways, thresholds and companionways, and, where
needed, to rails and spars. They are employed to take up the thump
of jib sheet and traveler blocks and they appear alow and aloft
wherever wear or galling is to be expected.
Platted, woven and thrummed mats are also used in chafing gear
but these will be dealt with in Chapter 41. In this chapter only mats
that are tied as knots will be shown.
Many of the Flat Two-Cord Lanyard Knots of Chapter 8 will
serve well as mats, and the Priest Cord Knots, which are given in
this chapter, are also a variety of Lanyard Knot, tied in double
parallel cords.
Mats make most satisfactory hot pads for the dining table, stove
lifters for the kitchen, and cushion covers for hard-seated chairs.
Frogs are two-dimensional knots that are appliqued on overcoats,
pajamas and uniforms. These are commonly tied in gold braid or in
colors and attain their full splendor on the uniforms of the band-
master, the ringmaster and the college drum majorette.
A flexible wire needle (#99L) is an excellent tool for matmaking,
but a packing needle with a dulled point is better if the material is
small, and with anything so large as priest cords , fingers will be
found the best tools of all.
The first mats to be discussed are a variety termed “Basket Weave
Knots” in which the weave throughout is alternately over one and
[ 3 61 3
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
under one or, if doubled, over two and under two. A small knot is
first tied and thereafter, either by adding further diagonals or else
by platting the loops and ends of one side, the size of the knot is
increased. In the former the proportions are unchanged, and in the
latter the knot is lengthened. When the knot that was decided on
has been made, its size may be further increased by doubling or
tripling the established lay or ply in the manner that was described
for the Turk’s-Heads of Chapter 18.
2242 . The Prolong Knot was so named because its length may be
added to— that is, it may be prolonged. Boyd (A Manual for Naval
Cadets , 1857) first called attention to it by name. But Luce, a few
years later, pictured only the simplest form of the completed knot,
which is the first diagram given on this page, and failed to mention
either the method of tying and enlarging or the purpose of the knot.
Furthermore he misspelled the name, calling it Prolonge, which is
the name of a rope used by the field artillery. C. H. Smith called it
“Prolonged Knot” in 1876, which appears to be a common name
for it.
In the braid trade the form of the upper right diagram has been
termed the “Pretzel” Knot, and under the name “Austrian” Knot
the same form has been employed as an officer’s insignia in the
United States Marine Corps.
The Prolong is a common mat for stair treads on shipboard. It is
loosely formed, as in the first diagram, in regular over-one-and-
under-one sequence, then the ends and two lower bights are loosened
and extended, after which the six strands are platted as French Sin-
net, each of the loops or bights serving as two strands. Each time the
two ends have been led to the comers a knot is completed. The first
completed knot has four side bights and the second time the ends
are crossed the knot is increased to seven bights on each side. The
smallest number of side bights in a completed Prolong is four and
each enlargement adds three more.
To double or triple the ply of this knot: Lead either leg back into
the knot parallel with and in contrary direction to the lead of the
other leg. The method is shown in the fifth and sixth diagrams on the
page. The ends should not be left permanently near the rim but
should be withdrawn into the central structure, sewed down or
seized on the underside.
2243 . The Ocean Plat is a companion knot that is commenced
with an Overhand Knot. The central bight should be hung over a
convenient nail or hook and the two ends and two bights extended
as in the previous knot. When this has been done the knot is platted
as before. The smallest number of side bights in this knot is three
and each enlargement adds three more bights. With these two starts
(#2242 and #2243) every possible number of bights for knots of
this width is tied. Five, eight, eleven bights, etc., are impossible
knots to tie with a single strand, two or more cords being required
for them.
[ 3 62 ]
FLAT OR TWO-DIMENSIONAL KNOTS
In construction the present knot, which is the smallest knot of
all, is identical with the Chinese or Flat Knife Lanyard Knot, al-
though the ends are differently disposed. The name Ocean Plat
was found on the specimen in the South Kensington Museum col-
lection.
2244. The accompanying diagram represents the first enlarge-
ment of the Prolong Knot (# 2242 ). This, when tripled, makes an
excellent tread for a companionway step.
2245. The Ocean Plat first enlarges to a six-bight length, and
then to a nine-bight length.
2246. To enlarge the Carrick Bend, which is the smallest of the
series, by tucking two diagonally opposite ends: Tuck one end back
into the knot parallel with its own standing part and with the same
over-and-under. Tuck it completely across the knot, alternately over
and under, as shown by the arrow.
Take the opposing end and cross the end that was just tucked and
which now lies alongside, and, tucking alternately over and under,
cross the knot diagonally between the opposing two parallel leads
with opposite over-and-under.
This enlarges the Carrick Bend to the size of the Chinese Knot.
The two knots that have been given are alike in form except that
this is tied with two cords; the other was tied with the two ends of
one cord. The Carrick Bend design may be increased to any size
but may not be tied in a two-cord lanyard by this method. To make
a rug or mat of this knot tuck the ends back underneath the rim
and sew them flat, or else bring them out at the corners and add four
tassels.
2247. To enlarge a Carrick Bend by reeving alternate loops in-
stead of ends. A knot is completed any time a single end is rove
instead of a loop.
2248. A Wide Basket Weave Knot. To tie and enlarge a hori-
zontal Carrick Bend in which the two corners of a longer side are
already united, so that the knot is tied in a single cord suitable for
a lanyard (in this the number of top bights is always even and ex-
ceeds the number of side bights by one): Start by tying the second
diagram of the Prolong (# 2242 ), arranging a long upper loop, and
tuck the lower right end to the upper left, as in A, parallel with its
own part. A knot is completed each time the number of top bights
is even. This differs from #2247 in which the number of bights at
the top may be either odd or even. Having reached the position of
the upper left diagram B, make a right round turn in the left upper
end of the long loop, pass it over the single upper left end and tuck
it downward in a right diagonal between the two parallel parts.
Repeat this, alternating with loops from the two upper left parts,
until the knot is the size wanted, then tuck the end cord singly down
to the lower right corner.
[ 363 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2249. A Long Basket Weave Knot. Arrange the knot as pictured
in the upper left diagram, with a long neckband and a short lower
left end. The two corners of a short side are united with a loop at the
top, and by the method a series of knots can be tied into a lanyard.
Loops from the two different parts at the upper left corner are
tucked alternately until the knot is completed by tucking the single
end. A bight is added to both sides each time a loop is brought to
the lower corner. The number of side bights is one greater than the
number of top bights and the number of top bights is always even.
Knot #2246 on the previous page ties every possible knot of the
Basket Weave variety in which there is a strand at each of the four
corners and in w hich there is one more bight at the side than at the
end.
Methods #2248 and #2249 tie all possible Basket Weave Knots
of a single cord in which the length equals the width plus, or minus,
one. The loop in these lanyards is always on the side with the even
number of bights.
2250. A knot of one cord in which both ends depart at the bottom
corners and the number of the top and side parts is equal. The knot
is increased by one bight on each side, per operation. Successive
bights are tucked from the upper left corner only, while the lower
left end and the right upper end are held inert. Start as in the left
diagram and tuck successive bights or turns. When the size wanted is
reached, tuck the end instead of a bight as shown in the right dia-
gram. The eye, shown at the top of this knot, is seized in after the
knot is finished, if required.
2251. A knot of the Basket Weave variety in which a single cord
enters at one corner and departs at the diagonally opposite corner.
Tie a Figure-Eight Knot, then tuck the lower end diagonally up-
ward, above and parallel to its own part. In regular over-and-under
sequence tuck a turn from the second end under the first end and
downward diagonally to the right across the knot in regular and
contrary over-and-under sequence between the two parallel parts
leading from the other end. Repeat this with loops from alternating
ends as many times as may be desired. When the size wanted is
reached, tuck either end across the knot singly, which completes the
knot.
2252. To tie a knot in which the cord enters and leaves the knot
at the two lower corners and in which the number of top bights
is one greater than the number of side bights: First tie a Clove
Hitch and stick the left bight through the right bight and arrange
as pictured in the left diagram, with both ends at the left. Form a
loop with the upper left end and tuck it diagonally down to the lower
right as pictured. Tuck another loop from the same upper left end
cord in the same way. When the size wanted is reached, tuck the
end singly as pictured in the right diagram, which completes the
knot.
[ 3 6 4 1
FLAT OR TWO-DIMENSIONAL KNOTS
2253. A knot of the Basket Weave variety in which the propor-
tions are so wide that two diagonals are required to enlarge the knot.
Tie the basic knot, illustrated with doubled lines, by pinning it out on
the cork board. Lead each end parallel with its own standing part
for one diagonal (to the top), then cross the two ends and tuck
each end down to the corner between two parallel parts and with the
opposite over-and-under. This adds two parts to the width of the
knot but only one part to the length. Repeat until the size wanted is
attained.
2254 . A platted mat of four lengthwise leads may be started with
an Overhand Knot. As in #2242 a knot is completed every time
the two ends are brought down to the corners. Two side parts are
added at each operation.
2255 . In order to make all possible knots of this width, a second
start is necessary. Make a single round turn and plat as before. Two
side parts are added at each operation. With these two starts any
length is possible.
2256 . To make a six-strand platted mat: First tie a knot as in the
left diagram, which may be started as # 2252 . Extend the two lower
bights and proceed to plat all six as in French Sinnet. A section of
this knot is similar to #2242 and #2243, but the rectangular top is
peculiar to the present series. Each time the two ends are brought
down to the comers three bights have been added to each side and
a knot is completed. Like Knots #2242 and #2243, a second start is
necessary to make all possible sizes of this knot.
2257 . The second start is similar to Knot #2255 but requires two
loops instead of one. Arrange the cord in two round turns over
three nails or hooks and have the ends slightly longer than the loops.
Counting each loop as two strands, these altogether make a total of
six strands. All six are platted to form the knot. But it may be found
easier to first cross the two loops in the manner illustrated in the
lower part of the right diagram of #2256, and then to tuck the two
ends as illustrated by the arrows. This has already been illustrated
for Knots #2242 and #2243. The smallest knot by this method has
three side parts, which may be raised to six, nine, etc. The previous
knot starts with a completed knot of two side bights, which raises
to five, eight, etc. The two starts will make all possible knots of
this width and sort.
2258 . While considering the possibilities of these knots it should
be noted that two strands only, platted alternately over one and
under one, is two-strand rope and is the basic form for all the plats
utilized on this page. This may also be considered the basic form
for the knot series, since knots similar to #2254 and #2255 can be
tied by adding upward diagonals with the two ends as suggested
by the arrows that are shown in the center diagram.
[ 365 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2259. The knot given here is of the same sort as Knots #2255 and
#2257, which are the simplest forms of the kind. It may be started
with any number of very long round turns, which are laid out with
tacks on a board, and are platted as French Sinnet (page 490).
Each loop is worked as two strands, the upper half being led to the
left and the lower half to the right exactly as single strands are
worked in the sinnet. The loops and ends should be much longer
than needed for the finished knot and the knot is first tied very
loosely and then worked taut. It will be better to start with a knot
of three or four loops and make one or two practice knots before
attempting a large one. A knot is completed each time the ends reach
opposite sides.
To tie the Twelve-Strand Knot illustrated: The overlaid strands
which lead to the left are moved in turn. Lead the second (left)
strand in a left diagonal under the left end strand. Lead the third
(left) strand to the left (parallel with the first one that was led),
under one strand, over the next and under the outside one. Lead the
fourth (left) strand to the left parallel with the others and alter-
nately under, over, under, over, under to the left side. Lead the fifth
(left) strand likewise. Disentangle the loops after each strand is
crossed. Take the right end strand and lead it to the left, under, over,
etc., to the left edge, where it is laid out .
Bring the next right upper strand, which is part of a loop, to the
left in correct (alternate) over-and-under sequence to the bottom.
Lay this out . Lay the next upper right strand to the left in similar
way and lay out. Do the same with the next, and so on until only
a single end strand remains at the right comer. This is tucked out
as pictured for #2257, after which the knot must be faired.
If the right end had not been laid out when it reached the lower
left corner, and if, instead, each strand had been platted one more
diagonal in the manner already described, the knot would be twice
the length.
2260. To prolong a knot of a single strand in which only one end
of the strand is worked. This may be done with any desired number
of loops, and is worked the same as the last knot except that, as the
upper left end is not active, the number of the strands is always odd
instead of even. The knot is completed when the working end
reaches either the left or the right side. Compare with #2251, center
diagram, which has a different number of bights, and which, if de-
sired, may be platted farther by the present method.
2261. A Rectangular Knot without ends at the corners. It may
be enlarged as shown, to any size. After the knot is completely
formed, one end is withdrawn two or three tucks, while the other
end is tucked in to take its place. The ends are cut and sewed one
over the other. To tie: Make an Overhand Knot and tuck the two
ends upward to coincide with the left diagram. Cross the ends at the
top center and tuck them to the lower corner and then back to the
top with both ends and with alternate over-and-under. Repeat until
the knot is the proper size.
2262. A narrower Rectangular Knot is formed as shown by these
diagrams, beginning with an S turn. This is enlarged by tucking
one end as shown.
[ 3 66 ]
FLAT OR TWO-DIMENSIONAL KNOTS
Any of the Basket Weave Knots, when tied in flat material, may
be turned at the edges instead of being slued, as is usual in round
material. This makes a knot with an even or flush edge.
2263. A knot with the strands introduced at the side, suitable for
frogs carrying loops and buttons. To tie: Draw a diagram two bights
wide and seven bights long, place it on the cork board and stick
a pin at each rim crossing. Start at the center bottom and lead the
cord around the pins. After tucking under at the first crossing, repeat
aloud, “Over, under, over,” etc., and take the crossings accordingly.
When the knot has been removed from the board and faired, it may
be enlarged by following the lead indicated by the arrows in the
upper diagram. The knot is increased by four side bights and one
end bight at each enlargement.
2264 . This is another way to increase the size of Knot #2262.
The operation may be repeated as many times as desired. But after a
certain size has been reached, it will be found that often a knot of
larger material and fewer crossings will prove handsomer than an
elaborate knot.
The second diagram shows a Two-Strand Button Knot (#601)
added to the knot just described. It should be paired with a similar
frog bearing a loop instead of the button. When making the loop
withdraw one end of the cord into the knot several tucks. Form the
loop with the other end and tuck it back into the knot to fill the
space that was vacated. Sew the joint on the underside.
2265. The method of raising these knots appears to have endless
ramifications and I have made no effort to exhaust the possibilities.
This shows the same basic knot as the last, raised to a knot of 3 X 8
bights; the last one was 3 X 7 . If it is to be used as a frog the strands,
to be symmetrical, must lead from the center end.
2266. A Rectangular Knot with the cords entering at the
center of the end. First lay out 33 X 4 Knot on the board, then
raise it to a 5 X 7 (or larger) Knot by following the leads indicated
by the arrows. The sides increase by three and the ends by two at
each operation.
2267. The Chinese Frog Knot is found on Chinese pajamas. Each
knot is tied entirely with one end of a cord or tape. The two knots
are tied with different pieces of tape and the stem of each is con-
cealed under the corner loop of the other.
A long left loop is pinned out on the board. A similar loop is
taken close to the first one and is slipped downward under the stand-
ing part and over the lower bight of the first one. A third one fol-
lows, and is tucked under the first part encountered, over the next,
then under and over. A fourth loop follows and is tucked under,
over, under, over, under, over. This is continued until the knot is
the right size, then the single working end is tucked, instead of the
turn or loop, and is sewed flat at the bottom. When the knot is
worked taut it should be perfectly rectangular and, the larger it is,
the nearer square will the rectangle be.
When the two knots are arranged on the garment the two stand-
ing ends are laid parallel and each is sewed down under the rim of
the opposite knot.
[ 367 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2268. A nearly square mat is tied with a single cord and with both
ends at one corner. Tie the knot shown in the left diagram. Take the
upper end of the cord and cross it over the lower end and tuck
a bight parallel with the other end, over, under to the upper
left corner. Reverse the direction and continue to tuck it over and
under downward in a right diagonal between the two leads that are
parallel, which brings it to the right lower comer. Repeat this opera-
tion with alternate ends until the knot is the required size. A netting
needle may be used to advantage in tying this and other knots of
the sort in which an end and not a bight is tucked. When com-
pleted, if it is to be a mat or doily, lay one of the ends out for several
tucks and inlay the opposite end so that the joint is hidden on the
underside, well away from the comer.
2269. A hitched mat is made with one or any number of hitches
for a base.
Middle a cord, make a Single Hitch and then lead the left
end in a right upward diagonal across the hitch. Continue the
lead along the line indicated by the arrows until the two ends have
met. Fair the knot and then double and triple it, using both ends.
2270. A knot from two hitches. Middle a line as before and, after
the two hitches are arranged as shown, take the left end, lead it in
a right upward diagonal, over and under, to the center, then under
and over to the side. Continue to tuck as indicated by the arrows,
then double and triple the knot, using the surplus material of both
ends.
2271. A larger knot of the same sort is made with any number of
hitches. After the first hitch each succeeding hitch is tucked to the
left, over the first bight (in every case) and under the second, and
so alternately to the center. The desired number of hitches being
in place (in the knot pictured there are five), the left end is led in
a right upward diagonal over the first hitch, under the second and so
alternately until the center part of the knot is reached. When the
center has been reached, note whether the last tuck was over or
under. Whichever it was, the next tuck away from the center toward
the right side will be the same, and the rest are taken alternately.
The centers of all knots that start with an odd number of hitches
will be like #2269; the centers of all knots that start with an even
number of hitches will be like #2270. Three diagonals cross the
hitches of each knot and in every case the first (outside) crossing
of each diagonal is over .
These mats may be used for companionway treads, hot pads for
dining tables, and chair-seat covers. There is no limit theoretically
to their size, although practice is required to tie almost any large
knot successfully, and difficulties multiply with each slight increase
in size.
2272. The remainder of these single-strand mats do not “enlarge.”
They are tied directly, after which they may be doubled or tripled
in the usual way. A rectangular mat with well-rounded corners
may be tied over a diagram by the method described at some length
[ 3 68 ]
FLAT OR TWO-DIMENSIONAL KNOTS
at the bottom of page 102. These make particularly handsome stair
creads. First make an enlarged copy of the diagram, which is
very easily done by utilizing the lines or the alternate lines on a
piece of cross-section paper. Pin the cord along the line in the
direction indicated by the arrow. Wherever a cord lies across the
path, at a point that is marked with a circle , tuck the working end
under the cord at that point. Disregard the circles if no other part
is already there. This knot has three bights at the ends and five at
the sides. Its finished aspect is shown in the second row below. A
Three-Lead by Six-Bight and a Three-Lead by Ten-Bight Knot
may also be tied and undoubtedly many others that have not been
checked.
While tying, repeat to yourself, “Over, under,” etc., in alternation,
and take the crossings accordingly.
2273 . The Five-Bight by Seven-Bight Knot, illustrated here, may
be tied by the method described for the previous knot, and a Five-
Lead by Ten-Bight and a Seven by Nine Knot may be tied by the
same method.
2274 . In diagram form this knot resembles the Prolong (#2242)
“widened out,” but it does not appear to be suited to any enlarge-
ment method.
The present knot has three side bights and makes a symmetrical
elliptical mat. It may be tied on the cork board over a diagram by
pinning the cord at frequent intervals and tucking the working
end underneath another part at every encircled point that is passed
in regular numerical sequence.
2275 . The finished aspect of a similar knot with seven side bights
is shown here. To tie: Outline the knot on cross-section paper and
pin a cord along the line, repeating as you do so, “Over, under,” etc.,
and tucking the end accordingly. This knot may be tied with 2, 3, 7,
8, 12, 13, 17, 18, etc., side bights, 7 bights being illustrated on this
page.
2276 . A square mat of the same nature as $2272 and #2273 in
any size is tied as a Multi-Strand Knot. It is to be formed over a
diagram and requires a separate cord for each cycle within the knot,
if tied regularly, or, if the reader wishes, he may tie the knot after
the manner of the Monkey’s Fist (Chapter 29), deflecting the cord
from one cycle to another after it has been doubled or tripled.
A most practical way to tie this particular knot by such a method
would seem to be with two cords. Take one of the two central
horizontal cycles; begin at the middle and follow it three times
around, then lead the cord into the adjacent central horizontal cycle
after the manner of the MoStkey’s Fist Knots, and follow that three
times around.
Take another and longer cord. Start at the center of the extreme
left vertical line, follow around the rectangle three times to the right,
then deflect the line to the second vertical, follow three times and
move to the next. Continue with the same method until the knot is
completed.
[ 369 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2277, 2278. Multi-strand mats of rectangular form in which the
comers of the diagram are borrowed from the ends of diagrams
#2274 and #2275. The well-rounded comers of these and of dia-
grams #2272 and #2273 lend themselves particularly well to
doubling and tripling. Comers similar to #2268, on the other hand,
are more successful when the knots are left single.
A mat of the sort given here may be made in any size or propor-
tion and tied either multi-strand, or two-strand by the Monkey’s
Fist method which was described for Knot #2276 on the preceding
page. Make a large cross-section paper diagram of the knot wanted
and lay it out on the cork board.
2279. A platted Multi-Strand Knot of any length that is based
on Single-Strand Knots #2274 and #2275.
Take five long cords and middle them, making ten strands of equal
length. Drive five pins at the top of the board and arrange the strands
as pictured in the upper diagram. Make certain that the weave is in
regular over-and-under sequence throughout.
Take the second strand at the left top (numbered 1) and tuck it
to the right and center, under, over, under (passing three strands).
Take the opposite cord on the right side, also numbered 1, and
tuck it to the left and center over, under, over, under (passing jour
strands).
Take the left top strand 2 and bring it to the right and center
over, under, over, under.
Take the right top strand 2 and tuck it to the left and center
under, over, under, over.
Continue to work the two outer top strands alternately as French
Sinnet, according to these last two directions, until sufficient length
is made for the knot wanted.
Do not draw the ends too tightly together. They should be left
longer than pictured, long enough to allow doubling or tripling
the knot.
When the length is satisfactory, see that the strands are arranged
as in the third diagram, which represents the way they should appear
each time a right upper strand has been tucked to the left and center.
All ends are now led back into the knot, each one to the right of
an opposing end, and parallel with it, in the contrary direction.
To do this:
Transpose ends 1 and 3 (tucking each end to the right of the
other) and passing over strand 2.
Transpose ends 8 and 10, tucking under strand 9.
Transpose ends 4 and 7, passing under 5 and over 6.
Transpose ends 2 and 5.
Transpose ends 6 and 9.
After doubling or tripling the knot, and working it taut, dissipate
the ends away from the edges and sew them down on the underside.
Most of the foregoing knots of this chapter may be doubled or
tripled if desired.
[ 370 ]
FLAT OR TWO-DIMENSIONAL KNOTS
The next knots to be considered are often tied as frogs. They are
flat knots that are appliqued to cloaks, dressing gowns, dresses,
men’s bathrobes and pajamas, band and yacht uniforms. Formerly
they were worn on fur overcoats, fur-lined evening overcoats and
servants’ livery. In the Army such knots are nowadays confined to
dress uniforms.
In most Mat Knots the crossings are taken alternately over and
under but this is not strictly adhered to in military frogs where the
gold braid is often so dazzling as to obscure the lead.
2280. The Overhand Knot is the simplest form of all. If the ends
are brought together #2285 results, which is the form of a Two-
Lead, Three-Bight Turk’s-Head.
2281. A Trefoil Knot which does not hold form when removed
from the sleeve.
2282. The Baker’s and the Cowboy’s Pretzel Knot; the cowboy
employs it as a “trick” Lariat Knot, which spills into the Figure-
Eight Knot (# 2284 ).
2283. The Pretzel Knot of the braid trade, which is also the start
of Prolong Knot # 2242 . If the ends are closed together Knot
#2287 results, which is a Three-Lead, Four-Bight Turk’s-Head.
2284. The common Figure-Eight Knot is often used as a “repeat”
motif in conventional design.
2285. A Trefoil Knot that is also a Two-Lead, Three-Bight
Turk’s-Head Knot.
2286. A Trefoil Knot. A Four-Lead, Three-Bight Turk’s-Head
Knot.
2287. A Three-Lead, Four-Bight Turk’s-Head Knot, in disk
form.
2288. A Three-Lead, Five-Bight Turk’s-Head Knot with bights
extended to make a flowerlike form.
2289. A Three-Lead, Eight-Bight Turk’s-Head Knot. A com-
parison of the last three knots will indicate the way in which the
character of a knot may be modified by rearranging its curves. Four
of the bights of this knot are retracted and the diagram form is
exactly the same as the True-Lover’s Knot (# 2419 ), although the
over-and-under sequence differs.
2290. The Tom Fool’s Knot. This is also shown in Chapters 14
and 33 .
2291. The Tom Fool’s Knot with the loops rearranged.
2292. The Handcuff Knot cannot be arranged to coincide with
the diagram of #2290 but easily conforms to $ 2291 .
2293. Two Three-Lead, Seven-Bight Turk’s-Heads, arranged as
practical frogs. One part bears a loop which serves as a buttonhole,
the other part has a Button Knot from Chapter 5. The ends of the
cord are hidden. They are brought together and sewed on the under-
side of the knot.
[ 37* 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2294. An arbitrary knot form which may be lengthened by repeat-
ing the central motif.
2295. The Masthead Knot (#1167).
2296. The Masthead Knot with a single twist added to each of
the three loops. It will be noted that these rearranged sailor’s knots,
although they are symmetrical, do not rigidly conform to a regular
over-and-under sequence, unless they are retied with that in view.
2297. A Sheepshank Knot is formed from three hitches (#1 162).
2298. A Sheepshank formed from four hitches. The method is
given as Knot #1165.
2299. This shows a somewhat similar knot of four hitches differ-
ently arranged. It is described as Knot #1164.
2300. The Jug Sling (#i 142), arranged as a frog or Frog Knot.)
Sometimes the distinction is made that the button and buttonhole
is the frog but in the braid trade the appliqued knots themselves are
the frogs. This knot is used, on a double-breasted coat, one button
being a dummy that is sewed directly to the frog itself, while the
other is not attached to the frog but buttons through the buttonhole
from the underside. After the Jug Sling has been tied the ends are
rearranged as shown by the arrows.
2301. The True-Lover’s Knot! In form this does not differ from
the diagram of Turk’s-Head #2289, but the over-and-under ar-
rangement differs.
2302. The “False-Lover’s” Knot is closely related to the above,
but the two Overhand Knots are differently interlocked.
2303. A dissimilar knot, tied with two Overhand Knots, which do
not interlock.
2304. A knot of two loops. There are other knots given in the
chapter on Double Loops that may be employed as frogs.
2305. Another forked loop, which can be decoratively arranged.
2306. 2307, 2308. Three arbitrary forms. The center one is from
Bocher, who devotes considerable space to decorative Two-Dimen-
sional Knots. The knots are to be pinned over a diagram. Repeat to
yourself, “Over and under,” as you pin the cord and take the cross-
ings alternately.
2309. A knot closely related to #2303 which does not have a
regular over-one-and-under-one sequence.
2310, 2311. These two are from Japan. Knots of this kind are
superimposed on parcel lashings and are often made of several
parallel copper wires that are silk-covered and parti-colored. The
loops are bent into decorative forms.
2312. Another knot from Bocher.
2313. This knot, also shown by Bocher, is found tied on almost
every Chinese priest cord. It will appear again in this chapter as
#2362.
2314. The Bumblebee. It is hard to resist the temptation to name a
knot when the title seems as appropriate as this is.
[ 372 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
The knots of the next few pages may be tied in braid and em-
ployed as Frog Knots, or they may be tied in stiff material, either
double or single, and employed as Terminal Knots on lanyards,
trumpet cords, etc. A few of these knots are original, a number
are from Bocher, others are from Japanese and Chinese lantern cords
and several are from trumpet cords and military uniforms.
2315, 2317, 2318. These will make symmetrical Lanyard Knots if
the loop at the top bight of the knot is cut (to make two cords).
2316. A six-sided compartment in this sort of knot, if sym-
metrically arranged, is no detriment.
2319, 2320. Ring and bandmaster frogs are always required in
pairs.
2321, 2322, 2323. The three of these start with the same basic
knot and have a pyramidal form. They are not truly symmetrical,
but the irregularity is internal and the outline is regular. All three are
very common knots, and are used oftener than many that are more
symmetrical.
2324. An elementary knot.
2325. Bocher calls this “Mors du Cheval
2326. 2327, 2328, 2329. These were tied in parallel parti-colored
wires on lantern cords.
2330, 2331. From Bocher.
2332. An attempt to make a Pectoral Knot from which to sus-
pend a carved Chinese “semiprecious” stone ornament. It was tied in
a doubled silk cord. A more satisfactory knot was made in two
planes (#843).
2333. From Bocher.
2334. From the end of a bugle cord by Seiderman Bros, of Phila-
delphia. The knot was drawn up so that it was practically circular.
2335. Another nearly circular knot.
2336. A Square Leaf Form. These knots make handsome frogs or,
if tied in round stiff material, excellent terminals for light-cords and
window-shade pulls.
2337. A Maple Leaf.
2338. 2339, 2340, 2341. Tied in flat braid, these may be used as
corner ornaments on band coats or they may be used in round stiff
cord as Pectoral Knots from which to suspend lockets or other
ornaments.
2342. A knot similar to #2340, but this has the lower corner re-
moved. It will make an equally effective knot tied in stiff narrow
braid or stiff round cord.
[ 374 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2343, 2344, 2345, 2346, 2347. The first five knots on this page may
serve either as pendants or as Frog Knots. The easiest way to tie
them, probably, is over a diagram— that is to say, pinned out on the
cork board. As the cord is pinned along the line of the diagram the
tier should repeat to himself “Over, under,” etc., and tuck the cord
accordingly wherever another cord lies across his path. If used for
pendants the cord should be as stiff as possible. Fine silk-wound wire,
in colors, is about the best material available.
Silk cord lanyards may be secured to the comers of these knots
by Ring Hitches, and tassels may be added in the same way. The
knots are pictured as concluding in the center of the long side, but
this is not necessary. Two cords may be introduced at any or all
corners if they are wanted.
2348, 2349, 2350, 2351. These are medallions , the last two being
Turk’s-Head forms.
These knots are generally used in combination and often with un-
complicated sections of cord between them. Often parallel cords
are employed. In some cases colored or parti-colored braids are em-
ployed as the material of the knots, particularly in hat trimmings,
but on coats and dresses gold and metal braid predominate.
In Chapter i, I disclaimed any intention of givin~ lr nots that could
not be tied in rope, such knots being ordinarily c 3 ted in carvings
of stone or wood or embossed on leather. But r - r knots that can
be tied in cord are entirely suitable for carving embossing, par-
f 37 6 1
FLAT OR TWO-DIMENSIONAL KNOTS
ticularly those of the present chapter. I do not scorn intangible
knots, but they form another subject that is not under consideration,
and the size of the present volume is already large enough.
Many of the knots of the last few pages would make appropriate
and decorative escutcheons, medallions and corners for the covers
of books. To save myself unnecessary labor, many of these knots
have been drawn in single line only and the over-and-under sequence
has not been indicated. It is alternate throughout, unless something
else has been indicated, as in the knots of pages 371 , 372 , and 373 .
2352. The two knots at the top of this page together form a very
simple escutcheon. Other, and in some cases more elaborate, knots
will lend themselves to similar treatment.
2355, 2356. These medallions are carved on the sides of a flattened
powder horn in my possession. The strands of the rope in the
Turk’s-Head are carved in detail. The horn has been mentioned
already in the chapter on Turk’s-Heads, and is dated 1675 .
2360. The knot pictured here would make a good thump mat for
a sheet or traveler block, if tied in heavy rope and followed two or
three times, in the manner of a Turk’s-Head.
Many of the One-Strand Button diagrams, if sufficiently decora-
tive, may be made to serve as medallions and also many of the
Monkey’s Fist diagrams. The Multi-Strand Button diagrams of
Chapter 9 can be tied as mats provided the large number of strands
used is no objection.
[ 377 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
Chinese priest cords are very uniform in character, although there
is a great diversity in the knots that compose them. The material is
invariably heavy silk-covered cord about a quarter of an inch in
diameter. There are always two pairs of strands and each pair is
parallel throughout the cord, except generally in the initial and final
knots, and occasionally in the large knot, which is second from the
end, in which the strands are led independently.
All the cords I have examined have each contained eight or nine
knots. The length of a cord varies from about four and one half to
five feet from the top of the upper knot to the bottom of the tassels.
They are presumably either part of a Buddhist priest’s costume or
else they are temple ornaments on curtains or banner staffs.
To tie: Pin the cords out on a board, using four cords, two in
each set. Work two parallel strands as a unit. The order of tying
is alternately over and under throughout, with one important excep-
tion. In order to prevent torsion, the order between two knots is
either under, under or else over, over. That is to say, if the cord
leaves one knot “under,” it enters the next knot “under” in the same
way. Otherwise the priest cord would tend to “corkscrew” or twist.
The end of each cord is finished off with twist braid, and each of
these braids terminates in a tassel.
2361. The first knot shown here is the Josephine Knot, which in
form does not differ from the Carrick Bend. It appears on every
priest cord that I have seen, as both the second and the final knot
before the twist braids and the tassel.
2362. This is another knot that is on almost every priest cord. The
reason for the almost universal use of the last two knots is probably
that they are the smallest to be found that fulfill all requirements of
a priest cord.
[378)
FLAT OR TWO-DIMENSIONAL KNOTS
2363, 2364, 2365, 2366. These are small knots that often appear
near the ends of the cords.
2367. The Chinese Knot or Flat Knife Lanyard Knot I have
never seen on a priest cord, but I have seen it tied in association with
Priest Cord Knots in other kinds of lanyards. Tied in a uniform
series, the Chinese Knot makes an excellent belt or bell pull.
2368. The Three-Lead, Eight-Bight Turk’s-Head.
2369. 2370, 2371. These knots are progressively larger, but are
still small. The biggest knot in a cord is always just below the center.
2369. A knot with four outside parts and a six-sided center.
2370, 2371. Knots which do not have the characteristic Carrick
Bend motif which appears as a component part at the top and bot-
tom of the majority of Priest Cord Knots. They have other of the
characteristics however. They were tied in Chinese lanyards of four
strands in the manner of priest cords, but not in priest cords. It is
quite possible that the knots of the priest cord are held sacred and
are deemed inappropriate for other purposes.
2375. This was tied in heavy sash cord on the lanyard of a boat
fender that was owned by the Boston Antique Co.
2372, 2373, 2374, 2376, 2377. These knots and a number on the
subsequent pages were shown to me by Louise Delano Cheney, who
lived in China a number of years, and who first introduced me to this
variety of knot. She made several priest cords herself and devised a
number of original knots suitable for them.
Priest cords can serve one very practical domestic purpose: they
make very attractive and decorative bell pulls. Usually they are of a
single solid color except when there is a splash of gold or bright
color which shows through the simple knotting or network covers
of the tassel molds.
[ 370 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
The three complete priest cords detailed in the left, center and
right areas of page 381 belonged respectively to Louise Delano
Cheney, to the author, and to Mrs. Frederic Stone. The left is gray
lilac in color with a gold-leaf tassel mold. The center cord is dark
golden ochre, and the right cord is a rich orange. The tassels of the
latter are of gold cord formed over an emerald-green mold. The
other tassels are the same color as the cords.
2378 , 2379 . These should be compared with Knots #2355 and
#2356, which are from the powder horn of 1675. Knot #2378 ap-
pears in both the lilac and the orange priest cords; #2379 appears in
the ochre cord.
The diagrams in general will indicate the finished form of the
knots but a better idea may be formed from the photographs of two
cords among the frontispieces. These also will indicate how the
knots should be spaced.
Having tied a cord in regular over-and-under sequence, except
that between two knots the sequence does not alternate, proceed to
draw up the knots evenly, beginning at the top and completing each
knot before progressing to the next.
2380 . An original knot supplied by Mrs. Cheney.
2381 . Appears on both lilac (left) and orange (right) cords.
2382 . Found on both the ochre and the orange cords.
2383 . Found on a priest cord in the stock of a New York Chinese
“notions” shop.
A knot similar to either #2386 or #2391 appears as the initial
knot of every priest cord that I have seen except one on which the
first two knots were missing.
The semifinal knots for the cords that I have seen are almost in-
variably derived from the True-Lover’s Knot or else follow it
closely in diagram form, as does Knot #2387, (which is an Eight-
Bight, Three-Lead Turk’s-Head); so also does semifinal Knot
#2392. (See Knot #2289, this chapter.) When the semifinal knot is
not a True-Lover’s Knot, it still has the two flanking loops that
are characteristic of that knot. Generally below this the two center
strands are held together with Knot #2361, which serves to secure
two of the four ends, while #2387, #2393 or some similar knot holds
the other two ends.
2388 . When the four ends are ready they are each made up into
twist braid of seven to nine bights each. The method of making this
is shown at the top of page 95.
It seems probable that the center (ochre) cord originally had a
Carrick Bend (#2361) at the top in place of Knot #2379. This
would explain the shortness of the lanyards and would make the
three cords, right, left and center, quite uniform in their propor-
tions.
2393 . Two Overhand Knots hold the loops of the True-Lover’s
Knot in place.
2394 . To tie a True-Lover’s Knot: First make two interlocking
Overhand Knots and then pull the bights out as indicated by the
arrows in the fourth-column diagram. (See Knot # 2418.)
2395 . A knot supplied by Mrs. Cheney.
[ 3 So ]
fHE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2396. This knot appears on the center priest cord of page 381.
Both this cord and the left cord are also to be found pictured among
the photographic frontispieces.
2397. The figure-eight diagram appears as a motif in this knot,
coupled with the Carrick Bend diagram. The knot is a large and
somewhat flimsy one that was found on a very stiff lantern lanyard.
2398. The Figure-Eight Knot also appears in this one, which is
from a cord that was sketched through a shopwindow, one evening
after business hours, on the boardwalk of Atlantic City.
2399. A knot from the ochre cord pictured in the center of page
381.
2400. A compact knot of two interlocked Carrick Bends.
2401. A knot from the orange-colored cord on the right side of
page 381. It is very much like Knot #2399.
I have always supposed that these cords were part of a priest’s
costume. If a priest cord is tied about the neck, the tassels clear the
ground at about the right height.
But I took two of the cords to the Chinese Embassy in 1935, and
although they were thought to be employed as ornaments in Bud-
dhist temples, I was not so fortunate as to discover whether they
were peculiar to the priest’s garb or to the temple furniture, or were
used in both ways. Also I am still in doubt of their period. Some of
them appear to show signs of great age, but the material is such that,
if well cared for, a cord one hundred years old might appear quite
fresh. I don’t imagine that either their origin or purpose is at all
obscure, but I have not been so fortunate as to find anyone having
certain information regarding them. It has been suggested that they
may be Tibetan, and I have even been told by a shopkeeper that they
are a part of the loot of Peiping.
f ,82 ]
4 *
4 •
'Y
%
X
CHAPTER 31: FANCY KNOTS
No one accustomed to mix * vith the higher classes of Society will be
at all inclined to dispute the advantages arising from a genteel ap-
pearance; it therefore becomes necessary that the means of acquir-
ing this distinction should be clearly demonstrated. An attentive
perusal of the following pages will conduce to this desired effect.
H. Le Blanc, Esq.:
The Art of Tying the Cravat , Philadelphia, 1828
Most decorative knots, no matter what utilitarian purposes they
serve, are termed by the sailor “fancy knots,” provided they are
sufficiently ornamental. Button, Lanyard, Masthead, Sheepshank
and Shroud Knots, Monkey’s Fists and Turk’s-Heads, as well as
mats and sinnets, are all in this category. But in this volume those
that have been named are discussed in separate chapters; conse-
quently the present chapter is limited to knots that have so far been
unlisted.
It happens that most of those that remain are Bowknots or knots
having marginal loops.
Of these the True-Lover’s, Love or True Love Knot constitutes
the largest single group. The name being a very popular one, there
are many knots that bear it. The oldest description that I find of the
True-Lover’s Knot says: “A sort of double knot with two bows.”
This is so broad that almost any of the knots bearing the name can
be made to fit it. Webster labels both the ordinary Bowknot and
the Carrick Bend, “True Love Knots.” There is just one point on
which most authorities agree. This is that the True-Lover’s Knot
consists of two intertwined Overhand Knots that are brought to-
gether in such a manner as to form a charming and symmetrical
unit.
The conscious romanticism that has fixed this name upon two
quite commonplace forms which, when drawn together, make a
single beautiful and harmonious knot, should leave no doubt in the
[383]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
24o3
minds of all idealists that any knot lacking this feature is unworthy
of the name.
The chapter on fancy knots will open with the basic Necktie
Knots and will then touch briefly on Bowknots. The latter part is
devoted to a certain variety of Chinese Knot that is tied in two
planes and is commonly called Butterfly Knot on account of its
marginal loops or bows, which are fancied to resemble the wings of
the insect.
2402. The String Tie is merely a Square or Reef Knot tied in a
well-stiffened flat material.
2403. The Bow Tie. The ordinary Bowknot is tied flat so that the
bow and end of one side is over the end and bow of the other side.
Sometimes the tie is cut so that the waist is small and the bows
flare excessively, although the knot is free from wrinkles. This latter
form has been termed the Batwing Tie.
2404. If a bow is tied in a long wide ribbon, usually of black, the
necktie is termed the Windsor. This has been worn with Eton collars
by the young and has been affected by poets and students of the
Latin Quarter. I have seen a photograph of Edmund Clarence Sted-
man in which the ends of his Windsor tie were fully eighteen inches
long.
2405. The Coventry Dress Tie is based on the Drawknot or
single bow. It is the easiest dress tie for the non-adept to master. One
half of the tie tapers to an end that is stiffened at the very tip with a
small metal disk which is to be stuck in between the collar and neck-
band, and then pushed downward from sight.
2406. The Ascot. This tie is still associated with horses and is today
worn by women quite as much as by men. It is possibly the easiest of
all to tie. The ends are drawn even around the neck. A Reef Knot
is tied, the ends are then folded down, the bights are pinned high
through the knot, generally with a horsy scarfpin. The two legs
cross each other at a moderate angle.
2407. The Four-in-Hand. This tie also has a horsy background,
which it has long since lived down. So much so that I found one
[ 3 8 4 1
FANCY KNOTS
person who thought that the name was in some way descriptive of
the manner of tying, and that two people with four hands were
required for the job.
The simplest way to knot the Four-in-Hand is to form an Over-
hand Knot with the wider end and to reeve the more attenuated end
through the knot.
2408. A fuller and handsome not is formed, however, by bring-
ing the wider end twice around the narrower end, then reeving it
up beside the neck, finally sticking it down under the outer one of
the first two turns. This is the common Four-in-Hand Knot, called
jy M. Le Blanc “the Cravat Knot.” It must be worked and prodded
before perfection is attained.
Every few years scarfpins are worn with this tie. But when the
pins have grown so conspicuous that they transcend good taste the
scarfpin is relegated for another period to the tack room or the
jewel box, to stay in quod until another generation comes along.
The knot has the same form as the Buntline Hitch.
2409. If the material of a Four-in-Hand tie lacks substance it may
be passed three times instead of twice when starting the knot. The
end, however, in the final tucking down is passed only under the
last or upper turn. This knot bulks much larger than the one last
described.
2410. The Stock. M. Le Blanc terms this tie and method “ En Cas-
cade” The stock is middled at the throat and then one end goes
around the neck, one part passing above the other, at the nape. At the
front a Granny Knot is tied, care being taken that all parts are flat
and fair. The upper end is turned directly down over the lower or
smaller end and the scarfpin holds everything firm after the folds
have been carefully arranged.
If the knot is to be tied around a collar the tie is merely passed
around the back of the neck and either a Half Knot or a Granny
Knot tied at the front before adjusting the pin.
M. Le Blanc credits Lord Byron with being the first to cross a
tie at the nape of the neck instead of (stockwise) at the front.
[385}
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2411. The ordinary Bowknot of the shops, as used by dress-
makers, florists, confectioners, hatters, etc., does not differ essen-
tially from the necktie bow except that usually a ribbon has one
right side, so that it is necessary, by twisting the ribbon, to keep
that side uppermost at all times.
2412. If a considerable number of loops are to be added, for deco-
rative effect, they may all be made with one end and then clove
hitched with the other end, the ribbon being first secured firmly in
place with a Square Knot. The loops are smoothed out and disposed
of as the tier wishes, after w hich they may all have one or both sets
of ends trimmed with either a swallow-tail or a diagonal cut. The
trimmed ends are always left longer than the loops.
2413. For a particularly full knot an extra piece of ribbon is
often superimposed over the original knot and, after the folds are
arranged, is square knotted firmly in place.
2414. If a Bowknot is worked into circular form it is termed a
“Rosette” or “Rosette Knot.” In any of these knots the several
loops may be of equal length or of graduated lengths.
2415. The “Gift Knot” is a Japanese Parcel Knot consisting of
a Carrick Bend, tied in doubled ends. If of cord, little tassels on the
ends add much to the decorative effect.
2416. A parcel is sometimes tied with a crown of four loops. Ar-
range the cord as in the first diagram and, disregarding the two ends,
crown the four loops or bights to the right. Lay the left upper loop
down to the right of the next or second loop, then cross the second
loop to the right, over the first and above the third. Take the third
loop, cross it up over the second loop and to the left of the fourth loop.
Take the fourth loop and cross it over the third loop and tuck it
under the double bight that was formed when the nrst loop was
moved. Arrange all parts so they are smooth and fair and draw up
taut. By crowning all four loops again in the opposite direction, the
knot is made more secure.
2417. This brings us to the True-Lover’s Knot that was men-
tioned at the beginning of the chapter. One of these knots may be
added, for decorative effect, to any bag or parcel lashing. In a short
length of cord tie two interlocked Overhand Knots. Pull two bights
through the Overhand Knots as shown in the left diagram. Then
pull the bottom loop up through the knot as shown in the right
diagram. The upper bight that has just been pulled through the knot
is secured to the parcel lashing with a Ring Hitch (#1859). The two
[, 86 ]
FANCY KNOTS
ends may be tasseled or finished off with Overhand Knots; if of
cord, or if of ribbon, the ends may be trimmed either with a diagonal
or swallow-tailed cut.
2418. The True-Lover’s or True Love Knot is sometimes pulled
up snugly without adding loops and bights. So tied, it makes a hand-
some Two-Cord Lanyard Knot and in small black silk cord is quite
effective on a monocle cord where a series of small knots assists ma-
terially in preventing slipping when any twirling is resorted to.
2419. With the two side loops arranged conventionally as pic-
tured, this has been called the “Sailor’s Cross” and also the “South-
ern Cross.” Tied in two cords and pulled up snugly, this also makes
an attractive Two-Cord Lanyard Knot.
2420. This English, Englishman’s, Water, Waterman’s, Fish-
er’s, Fisherman’s or True-Lover’s Knot is perhaps the least pleasing
to the eye of all True-Lover’s Knots, but it has a legend attached
to it that more than makes up for any lack of symmetry in the knot
itself. The story was first told to me by Mrs. E. E. du Pont, who had
heard it from a boatman in Sidney, N.S. It concerned a certain bash-
ful sailor who could not screw up his courage to the point of invit-
ing his girl to marry him. After some delay he sent her a True-
Lover’s Knot tied in a piece of fishline and with the two knots
wide apart as in the left illustration. It transpires that, if the knot is
returned as it was sent, the sailor will be welcomed when next he
comes ashore, at which time he will still be on probation. If, how-
ever, the knot is returned snugly drawn together as in the right
illustration, it means that, if he can’t borrow a boat with which to
row ashore, he’d better swim, for it’s high time for the banns to be
published. But if his knot should be capsized and nothing remain of
it. it means: “You’d better ship around Cape Horn, and you can’t
do it too soon to suit me.”
But the story has it that our sailor had shilly-shallied so long that
his boat sailed codfishing before his girl had time to return his gift, so
we don’t know what happened when he got back, or even whether
he caught his boat.
2421. The True-Lover’s Knot. This again consists of two inter-
locked Overhand Knots which form what is actually a Two-Strand
Matthew Walker, and makes a very nice Lanyard Knot.
2422. The False-Lover’s Knot. The two knots are interlocked
reversely; otherwise it is tied as #2419. The knot has a character of
its own and, appliqued in flat braid, will make a good frog.
[387]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2423. This is Knot #2418 tied with gold wires. Formerly this was
a very characteristic gift from a sailor to his sweetheart. The two
rings could move independently but could not be separated, which
undoubtedly carried a meaning to the young couple that made the
long separation entailed by a sea voyage more tolerable.
2424. Jewelers not conversant with the symbolism of the previous
knot were apt to make the True-Lover’s Knot in this form, which,
while it superficially seemed about the same, consisted of but one
wire and held the two rings rigidly together.
2425. A True-Lover’s Knot tied in the bights of four short
strands symbolizes the four clasped hands of two lovers arranged in
the manner called a “hand chair.” The knot was shown to me by
Mrs. Osborn W. Bright.
2426. A True-Lover’s Knot in ring form, based on the Carrick
Bend. This, like #2424, is made of a single wire, and I cannot but
feel that it was less popular than the one to follow, which does not
submerge all individuality. One reason that I believe that this knot is
held in lower esteem by the sailor is that the only two specimens I
have ever seen were both of silver. Certainly the baser metal must
bear some significance. Moreover one of them was exposed for sale
in a pawnshop window.
2427. A Carrick Bend in two separate rings which interlock har-
moniously, perhaps the handsomest of the four rings shown.
There are probably other knots that are called by the name True-
Lover’s, but these are all I have found that fill the specifications
that were somewhat arbitrarily adopted. These are outlined on page
383.
2428. The following knots, through page 389, are Single-Cord
Lanyard Knots with a loop at either side and a four-part crown at
the center. Two-Strand Knot #2451 is the well-known Chinese
Crown Knot. I set out to find a knot of similar appearance for a
single-cord lanyard and this series resulted before I was through.
The first five are of similar aspect. The simplest is #2432, which is
the common Sheepshank Knot with the parts pulled together. This
[388]
FANCY KNOTS
knot will serve on a lanyard, and I haVe also used it for kite tails to
the entire satisfaction of my children.
2429. This knot and the previous one are easily formed. They
should be drawn up firmly, for if the pull is excessive they tend to
distort.
2430. A knot that is firmer and will stand a considerable pull.
Moreover the back of the knot is more regular than the others.
2431. Having found #2430 satisfactory on the front side, I next
attempted to find a One-Cord Lanyard Knot with a loop at either
side and a crown at both front and back. This occasioned a longer
search, but the knot alongside was finally evolved, which, if carefully
worked and pulled taut, fills all requirements. It needs some “gen-
tling” before it is quite satisfactory.
2432. The common Sheepshank Knot, when pulled compactly
together, presents a crown on one side only and distorts easily. Nev-
ertheless it had the desired aspect and was the point of departure for
the series.
2433. The loops of this knot run parallel with the cord.
2434. The crown of the knot alongside is not square with the cord,
but the loops are; and if drawn up well, the knot is quite firm. The
simpler the formation is, the harder some kinds of knots are to keep
in hand. This knot is quite handsome when tied with a doubled cord.
Some of the others might be doubled as satisfactorily. All must be
worked methodically, and as complete success never comes until the
very last moment, the tier must not allow himself to be easily dis-
couraged.
2435. A Double Crown with single loops. This knot is more suc-
cessful perhaps than the drawings indicate. It is very firm and does
not easily distort. It is, however, quite a handful to tie, and it will be
well to make a large-size diagram and pin the cord at frequent inter-
vals. Although about as much trouble to work as to tie, once it has
been drawn together compactly the form is both symmetrical and
inevitable.
f. 389 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2436. The Shamrock Knot. With a single cord arrange three
loops and the two standing parts into the form of a cross. Arrange
symmetrically and crown the loops and ends to the right, the two
ends being worked as a unit. Without turning the structure over ,
reverse the direction of the ends and loops and crown them back to
the left. This completes the Shamrock Knot as shown in the third
diagram.
2437. To make a knot of seven loops from the same start, extend
each of the four close bights indicated by the arrows in the third
diagram of #2436. Arrange them symmetrically, in the form of the
fourth diagram.
2438. A Three-Petal Knot with a cuboid center is made from the
same start. Crown as in the first diagram of # 2436. Having drawn this
up snugly as in the third diagram, turn the structure over and crown
again reversely. The second erown will cover the bights that are
evident in the third diagram of #2436, giving the knot an entirely
different character.
2439. A knot of four loops: Arrange a cord with four equal loops
and with the two legs parallel. Crown the loops only, to the right.
Then, keeping the structure the same side up, arrange the cord as
shown in the second diagram and crown a second time, this time to
the left. The completed knot is shown in the third diagram.
2440. The three bights that are closely drawn around the center
of Knot #2439 may be extended to make a Seven-Petal Knot that
is somewhat different from #2437. If the legs of the present knot
were included in the original crown, an arrangement is made, similar
to Knot #2437, which will have nine petals.
2441. If a knot of tivo loops only is to be crowned, employ the
ends as well as the loops. The resultant knot will have three close
bights and two forked loops extending from a double triangular
crown.
1 390 1
FANCY KNOTS
2442. If the three close bights are extended, a Leaf-Shaped Knot
of five loops is formed, which is shown as the final drawing on this
page.
The knots of this series make decorative terminals that are effective
on the ends of window-shade pulls, electric-light pulls, curtain and
bell cords, and dress and hat trimmings.
2443. A knot somewhat similar to the last may be made by crown-
ing three loops without engaging the ends, and then reversing and
crowning the loops a second time on the same side of the structure.
If the two close bights are extended the knot will have five petals.
2444. A knot of five loops crowned without engaging the ends.
The loops are crowned a second time in the reverse direction. The
four bights may be extended if desired so that the knot will appear
as in the right diagram with nine loops. If the legs are crowned as
well as the loops a larger knot with a center crown of six parts will
result.
2445. An interesting knot with three well-rounded marginal loops
and a double four-part crown center. This knot does not promise
much until it is nearly finished. Then it suddenly becomes compact
and regular. Except that it has a double center and single loops, it is
similar in character to #2451. Its structure may be compared with
#2435, which was evolved first and upon which this knot was based.
2446. A Japanese Knot with a single four-part crown center and
two opposite loops.
2447. The Violet. This is from a French book, and was ascribed
to Japan. After the knot has been formed, as in the left diagram, the
parts marked with arrows are extended to form petals and the other
parts are contracted.
a 44*7
[ 39 1 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
“Butterfly Knot” is the name commonly applied to a variety of
Chinese Knot that is tied in two planes. It consists of a central part
or body in two layers, both having a straight over-one-and-under-
one weave, and a series of marginal loops, which protrude from be-
tween the two central planes or layers. Since the knots are tied
directly in two layers, but are illustrated or projected with one layer
over the other, the over-and-under weave is not evident in the dia-
grams. By observing closely it will be seen that a loop passes through
or between the two parts of another loop in each case and then
passes around the two parts of the next loop that lies at right angles
to it; and in the larger knots, this continues through another loop and
around the next and continues to pass any other loops that lie ahead
of it in the same manner— that is, alternately “through” and “around.”
Although in practice it is often necessary to reeve the working
end of the cord forward and then back in order to make a loop pass
around other loops, it is simple, once the knack is acquired, to repeat
as you pass another loop (either a pictured one on the diagram or a
tangible one in the knot), “Through,” and “Around,” in alternation,
and to tuck the cord accordingly.
The Butterfly may be tied either as a Lanyard Knot or as a Ter-
minal Knot. By studying #2448, #2451, #2453, and #2455, it will
be seen that the simplest forms of these knots may be tied in a circle
with a “Chain Sinnet” or crochet chain stitch and that the knots are
concluded by interweaving the two ends. This is shown clearly in
the first diagram on the page.
2448 . A three-part crown center is the simplest practical form of
the knot.
2449 . The simplest and basic knot of the series is nothing other
than a Square Knot.
2450 . If, when one of these knots has been tied, the working end
is tucked ahead through its own bight and through the legs of the
first bight that was tucked, the knot will have one additional loop.
Any of the regular Butterfly Knots may be so treated. The present
diagram shows Knot #2448 completed in this way.
2451 . The commonest and best known of the Butterflies. Instead
of having a top center loop and being employed as a Terminal
Knot, it is here tied as a Lanyard Knot, two ends being substituted
for the top loop that is shown in #81 1. In tying knots #2448, #2451,
#2453, and #2455 by the Chain Sinnet method, take a flat board or
table and, keeping the knot continually in exact diagrammatic form,
thrust one bight at a time through the previous loop and pin the knot
at intervals to avoid capsizing.
2452 . Compare this knot with #2435 and #2445. The centers are
the same but in this case the loops too are double. Moreover it is not
suitable for use as a Lanyard Knot without modification.
[ 392 1
FANCY KNOTS
2453 . The five-part center crown is tied as already described on
page 392. It may nave five loops if the working end is stuck as de-
scribed for #2450.
2454 . This is a surprising knot, as it is quite flimsy until almost
completely drawn up, when it falls into shape nicely. Superficially
it cannot be told from Knot #2457, if the latter is tied with five
loops instead of six.
2455 . A Five-Bight Knot with a six-part crown in the center is
the practical limit in size for this type of Butterfly. The method
of tying a smaller knot of the sort has already been shown as # 2448,
#2451, and #2453. The present knot makes a handsome Two-Cord
Lanyard Knot which is shown as #2484. If another rim bight is
desired one may be added as in #2450.
2456 . A Five-Bight Knot with a more elaborate over-and-under
arrangement. The first bight is laid out and pinned as in the former
knot. The second bight is laid around, instead of through, the first
one. The third and fourth bights are tucked through ©ne bight and
around the second one. The fifth bight is tucked through the first
bight and around the next two and the final one is passed through
the first, around the second, through the third and around the fourth
to complete the knot. To do this the end has to be rove both forward
and back. In this knot the two planes in which the series is tied be-
come very evident.
2457 . A knot may be based on a hexagonal diagram and the
sequence of the crown will be over two and under two. The first
bight is pinned out flat on the board. The second bight is tucked
through the first. The third and fourth bights tuck through both the
previous bights, the fifth bight tucks through two bights and around
the third bight and the final bight tucks through two and around
two. The working end in this knot may, if desired, be tucked as
indicated by the arrow to add another rim bight, which makes a
flowerlike knot of six petals, with a six-part center.
2458 . A Triangular Butterfly Knot may be tied either with
the rim bights extended or else drawn up, which will make two knots
of quite different character. The diagram should be enlarged and the
knot pinned out on the board when tying. Before working the knot,
check the over-and-under sequence. Then work it snug, very care-
fully and methodically, with a pricker.
2459 . If desired, the stem of the last knot may be introduced at
the side instead of at the comer. This also may be tied either with
or without the marginal loops. The two ends may be seized together
or sewed to make a compact stem.
[ 393 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2460. The Chinese Butterfly Knot is the prototype of this
whole series. The knot, being tied in two planes, is more difficult to
visualize than the Single-Plane Knots of the last chapter. It can be
diagrammed without too much difficulty and the crossings marked
with circles for each underpass. But I have found it simpler to repeat
to myself as I tie a knot of this sort, “Around, through; around,
through,” and to take the crossings accordingly.
Copy the diagram about two or three times the size of the original
on the page, and with the drawing alongside to check with. The knot
will not be found difficult, once the method has become familiar.
Insert pins along the outer edge, two for each rim bight and one for
each inside bight, making six pins to the side. In drawing up, prod
the knot constantly, and do not allow it to become distorted by un-
even pulling.
The loops around the edges may be drawn up snug or they may
be extended. On the next two pages the Chinese method of inter-
twining the loops is indicated. Wherever this intertwining occurs
the crossings are taken alternately over and under.
2461. A larger knot of the same description presents no new prob-
lem.
If the top loop is cut to make separate ends at the top, the two
knots that have just been given will serve as Two-Cord Lanyard
Knots.
2462. A Pentagon is tied in the same way, but is perhaps more
difficult to tie regularly.
2463. This diagram, if tied and worked carefully and then prodded
into shape, will make either a Square or a Circular Knot.
2464. An assembled knot may be tied directly over a diagram. An-
other way to tie knots consisting of a number of units, which are to
be combined into a single elaborate knot, is to tie each with a separate
cord. Assemble these units and pin them out on the board, cut the
loops and tie the ends together, so that the pattern ultimately con-
sists of a single connected, but knotted, cord.
This having been done, take a single cord long enough for the
whole pattern, and, using the knot already formed as a clue, double
it with the new cord. When complete remove the Clue Knot and
work the Single-Cord Knot snug. Very intricate patterns can be
formed in this way, but it is best to try assembling a few simple knots
first in order to become familiar with the method. On occasion it
will happen, in projecting such knots, that they cannot be tied with
a single cord.
[ 394 1
FANCY KNOTS
2465 . The Chinese Button Knot was discussed at length in the
beginning of Chapter 5; here it forms the head of an interesting in-
sect. It may be found easier to tie the knot by the diagrams and di-
rections that were given on page 103.
2466 . The True-Lover’s Knot has already been dealt with in de-
tail on page 387 of this chapter. It seems to be universally known,
which can be explained by the fact that sailors, the world over, tie it.
But so far as I know the sailor ties it only as a trick knot (#2420).
It would seem that the Chinese people have found uses for knots in
home decoration beyond all other people.
2467. The Dragon Fly is a quaint little insect made up very simply
from the two knots that were just shown.
2468 . I found the Caterpillar Knot in a Japanese knot book; it
is made of “square knotting,” which is an Occidental form of knot-
ting to be discussed in the chapter to follow. In the next chapter also
are two Japanese lanyards which combine square knotting with
Chinese Priest Cord Knots and also a Sailor’s Stopper Knot, a
knot which I have never known to be tied, save on this lanyard, by
anyone except a sailor. The lanyard is shown on page 403.
The Caterpillar Knot consists of a series of alternating Right
and Left Half Knots, tied with the ends over a short foundation
square knotting these are called Solomon Bars. They are ex-
more fully in the next chapter.
2469 . A Butterfly Knot. This is based on Knot #2460. It is
seldom in Chinese knotting that one of these knots is tied alone and
unsupported; usually they are tied in combination with other knots
and with additional flourishes of the marginal loops. All crossings
outside the central structure of the knot are in a single plane and
with regular over-one-and-under-one sequence. The diagram may
be reversed.
2470 . The Japanese specialize in parcel tying, and to this they
bring a great deal of ingenuity. Most of the basic knots, which are
quite simple, are borrowed from the Chinese. The Japanese contri-
bution is principally in the nature of arrangement. Many of these
knot forms are tied in cord consisting of a minute silk-covered copper
wire. Several parti-colored wires are led in parallel strands, and once
the knots are tied they are bent into leaf, flower and geometric forms.
The charm of these designs depends largely on the bent wire forms,
the knots being on the whole subordinate. There are several Japanese
books devoted solely to the subject. The knots that are included
in the design given here are #2311 and #2391.
[ 395 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2471 . The Moth. The knots on this page are further amplifica-
tions of Butterfly Knots #2460 and $2461, the centers of which
are here copied, but the marginal loops are further complicated in
flat over-one-and-under-one sequence. In this knot the Carrick Bend
motif is repeated four times in the loops and the Overhand Knot
four times, one in each end of the two cords.
2472 . The Owl Knot, like the last, is based on Butterfly Knot
#2460. Two Carrick Bends are tied in the wings. To add a knot in
the marginal loops, pin out the first strand of the knot carefully.
No tucking is required until the second strand is introduced, but
the loop receives a single twist, which may be in either direction,
provided the knot on the opposite wing is twisted contrariwise.
When the strand is led for a second time to one of these knots, make
certain while laying in the strand that the over-and-under is alternate
throughout.
2473 . The Wild Goose Knot is based on Butterfly #2461.
Two Loop Knots (#1046) are tied in the neck of the bird and the
knot tied in the wings is #1429, which is similar to but longer than
the Carrick Bend. Great care must be taken in drawing up this knot,
for if it is once distorted by drawing any one part too tight it is
difficult to make it lie fair again. The effort should be made to tie it
just a little slacker than desired, and this should be done by working
entirely through the knot, from end to end of the cord, each time
taking out a very little of the slack. If preferred, work the knot
from the center toward both ends. Often it will be found that a knot
that has been tied a little slacker than was at first thought desirable has
really about the tension that is wanted. But often when it seems that
all reasonable restraint has been exercised it will be found that the
knot is still tied tighter than the Chinese prototype.
The Chinese, in addition to the priest cords of the last chapter,
have given us lanyards of surpassing beauty which are best exem-
plified by their lantern lanyards. Undoubtedly inside their homes are
many other examples of this variety of knotting other than the lan-
tern cords. But the lantern hangs in full view for all to see. Beside the
lacery of these cords, in which many different kinds of knots are
intertwined in a variety not equaled even in their priest cords, the
Chinese have added color and texture. Tied in both silk and cotton,
they are studded with semiprecious stones, glass and metal orna-
ments in the form of beads, disks and pendants.
[ 396 ]
FANCY KNOTS
I have never missed an opportunity to study Chinese lanyards
wherever I have met them, but the Chinese have carried the art of
knotting so far that there seems to be no end to their variety, and
whenever I have found a good collection of Chinese knot work I
have never failed to see something with which I was unfamiliar.
When there isn’t an entirely new knot, there is either a new twist
to an old knot or a different way of combining two.
2474. Alongside is a Chinese lantern cord that was tied in a small,
round, blue-silk braided cord.
To tie: Take a long cord and double it, leaving a loop four inches
long. Proceed to complete one knot at a time, taking care to keep the
length of the two strands, as well as the knots themselves, sym-
metrical.
Hold the structure with the loop down, and tie a Sailor’s Round
Knife Lanyard Knot, sometimes called Two-Cord Diamond Knot.
The method of tying this is given as #787.
2475, 2476. The Knife Lanyard Knot is followed by two oppo-
site (left and right) Carrick Bends a short distance apart. The
drawing will give an idea of the spacing and proportions of the cord.
2477. The assembled knot which comes next consists of two small
Four-Part Crown Butterfly Knots and two Carrick Bends,
which should be worked until the combined knot is nearly round.
2478. Two Wall Knots follow, separating two colored and
gilded beads.
2479. Another assembled knot is in the center of the cord and is
made up of two Four-Part Crown Butterflies and two Three-
Part Crown Butterflies.
2480. Around the two cords in the center is a Three-Lead, Four-
Bight, Three-Ply Turk’s-Head in silver-wound wire cord.
2481. Then follow two Walls (#2478) separating two beads,
and below that a soapstone disk in imitation of mutton-fat jade. Ad-
ditional silk threads lead across the disk and these are seized to the
cords with silver thread at the top and bottom of the disk. In the
center of the disk is a silver Turk’s-Head.
There are three more beads below the disk and after a considerable
uncomplicated length of two parallel cords a tassel is added.
[ 397 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OP KNOTS
2482 . A more elaborate Chinese lantern cord is made of narrow
sage-green cotton sinnet, platted as #2967, twenty-seven inches in
length. The tassels are of red silk thread and the Turk’s-Heads are
of parti-colored wire-wound silk and silver-covered wire. To tie:
Double a long cord. As the take-up differs with the size of the cord,
it is difficult to specify the length. Leaving a five-inch loop, tie a
Four-Crown Butterfly Knot (#811).
Below this are two Three-Lead, Four-Bight, Two-Ply Wire
Turk’s-Heads, the upper one silver-covered, the lower blue-silk-
covered. Close to this is a tassel of red silk thread, three and one half
inches long.
2483 . A second Four-Crown Butterfly (#2482) is added below
the tassel and then the elaborate Knot #2483 (detailed at the left)
is carefully pinned out pn the board. The horizontal bar of the
original knot was stiffened with a piece of bone, two and one half
inches long, in shape exactly like the mahjong counters we used to
play with. There are two Three-Lead, Four-Bight, Two-Ply
Turk’s-Heads which encircle the center cords. The positions of the
Turk’s-Heads are indicated by double-headed arrows in the right
upper diagram. The upper of these two Turk’s-Heads is of silver,
the lower red.
Suspended from the ends of the crossbar are tassels made over
round buttons one half inch in diameter. The tassels are four and
a half inches long and of red silk. Above each of these are two
Turk’s-Heads, the upper one silver, the lower one blue. Tasselmak-
ing is described in Chapter 41.
Close to Knot #2482, but not interlocking with it, is another knot
(#2482).
An inch and a quarter below the last-mentioned knot is the top of
a glass disk, one and five eighths inches in diameter, of imitation jade.
The disk is perforated at the center and a red silk Turk’s-Head
(#2481) holds the strands together through this. A smooth seizing,
a quarter of an inch wide, of dark linen thread, holds the disk in
place at both top and bottom. The seizing has been wound with silk
thread to make a blue stripe around the center at either side of the
Turk’s-Head. The outer edges of the seizing are of dark blue, the
center light blue and the whole stripe is not more than one sixteenth
of an inch wide.
2484 . An inch and a quarter below the disk is tied a Butterfly
Knot of the same form as #2455, already shown in this chapter.
An inch below this knot are two Turk’s-Heads, the upper one
silver, the lower one red. These are of larger wire (about one thirty-
second of an inch) than those previously described, which so far
have been of uniform size.
Below these two Turk’s-Heads is a round silver-lined glass bead
five eighths of an inch in diameter and below this is a bright green
wire Turk’s-Head, about a quarter larger than those last described.
Close to this is a ten-inch tassel of red silk made over a wooden
mold seven eighths of an inch in diameter.
Methods of making tassels are shown in Chapter 4 1 .
[ 398 ]
CHAPTER 32: SQUARE KNOTTING
But here's a Queen , when she rides abroad ,
/j always knotting threads.
Sir Charles Sedley (1639-1701): From a Poem
Dedicated to Mary, Queen of William of Orange
Mary is held responsible for having introduced square knotting
into England, having herself become adept in the art while living
in Holland.
Square knotting is supposed to have originated in Arabia, where
it was called macrame which means in Arabic fringe. Apparently
the practice was first applied and limited to coarse cord fringes,
until it became known in Italy, at the time of the Crusades. Here
nuns, using a much finer material, developed it into a lacelike textile
of great beauty and strength. For a long time it was employed al-
most exclusively for altar cloths, church vestments and the like.
There was (at least until recently) in the Louvre a painting by Paul
Veronese (1528-88) of “The Supper of Simon the Canaanite.” A
square knotted table cover formed an important part of the painted
design.
Exactly when the sailor first took up square knotting is not known.
But in the middle of the nineteenth century crews in both the Amer-
ican and British Navies specialized in square knotting, perhaps be-
cause their narrow quarters gave little or no opportunity for stow-
ing larger work.
Much of the square knot work aboard ship took the form of
fringes for sea-chest covers, tablecloths, shelf covers, binnacle, sky-
[ 399 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
light, capstan, wheel and bell covers and, on whalers, line tub covers.
Bell and yoke ropes and occasionally even manropes were square
knotted. Spray screens for launches, and also “eye screens,” for
accommodation ladders, were required at a time when women were
less frankly bifurcated than at present. Knotted belts, handbags,
watch guards, leashes, lanyards, light, shade and bell pulls are made
at the present time, and no longer ago than last summer I saw, in a
magazine advertisement, the photograph of what was unquestion-
ably a knotted bathing suit.
Square knotting is essentially a variety of lacemaking that is closely
related to tatting and pillow lacemaking. Like tatting, the com-
ponent knots are simple and few and the beauty of the product
depends on both the design and the uniformity of the workmanship.
Only two elementary knots are essential. These are the Half Knot
(called the “Macram£ Knot”) and the Half Hitch (called the
“Tatting Knot”). Various combinations of these two, in varying
numbers, are termed bars . About a dozen of these bars are important
enough to bear distinguishing names.
Merchant seamen are apt to introduce sailor’s knots into their
square knotting, but the great majority of examples of square knot-
ting that I have seen contain no knots beyond the two that have
been named.
Square knot design is too large a subject to be considered here,
even if design were not outside the scope of the present work. The
basic knots and bars of square knotting are given and several ex-
amples of the work will be described, including the sailor-made
handbag that is reproduced among the frontispieces.
Those who are interested in square knot design will find the fol-
lowing current books of assistance. They are replete with practicable
designs and suggestions and moreover are inexpensive. Herwig,
Square Knot Book (elementary instruction); and De Dillmont,
Macrame, which is very handsomely illustrated.
2485. Square knotting is started with a series of cords made fast
to a foundation cord, which may be either single or double. For
close spacing, the cords are middled and secured to the heading or
foundation with Cow Hitches (#56). The length of the cords re-
quired is generally about seven or eight times the length of the fin-
ished product. Each cord is middled and made fast to the foundation.
2486. If wider spacing is required, secure the cords to the founda-
tion with Clove Hitches ($53) which may be either single or
double. Long cords may be either wound on bobbins or they may
be wound over the fingers and held with elastic bands (#3085).
2487. To add two strands to one, in a lanyard or other pattern:
Tie a Half Hitch in the shorter cord around the center of the long
or leader cord.
2488. The Half Knot is ordinarily used in adding two cords to
a double warp, but the ends are not quite at the same level.
2489. The Constrictor Knot will be found firmer and more
symmetrical for the purpose, although it bulks somewhat larger.
2490. The Half Hitch, also called the Tatting Knot, is one of
the two basic knots of square knotting, the Half Knot being the
other one. One or the other or both of these appear in every square
knotted bar.
[ 4 °° '
SQUARE KNOTTING
2491. The Corkscrew Bar shows the Half Hitch tied in a uni-
form series which causes it to helix down the leader cord.
2492. The Buttonhole Bar is exactly the same as the foregoing,
except that it is not allowed to twist. It is tied a little slacker and
forced to lie straight until the end is secured.
2493. The Half Knot, also called the Macram£ Knot, is the sec-
ond of the basic knots of square knotting. Both of these are tied
around a leader cord or warp which hangs from the foundation cord.
2494. If a series of identical Half Knots is made the bar will
helix, forming what is called a Twisted or Bannister Bar. Two
identical Half Knots constitute a Granny Knot.
2495. The Square Knot consists of two Half Knots, one left and
one right, one superimposed over the other. This is called a Solomon
Knot when tied around a leader cord.
2496. A series of alternating Left and Right Half Knots forms
a Solomon Bar, which has no tendency to twist. This is the typical
knot that is responsible for the name square knotting .
2497. The Single Tatted Bar may have either a single or double
warp and is tied with a single cord in alternating Left and Right
Half Hitches. There is no tendency to twist and the effect is some-
what similar to buttonholing.
2498. The Double Tatted Bar is tied with two cords over either
a single or double warp, a Cow Hitch being tied alternately with
first one and then the other cord.
2499. If a cord proves too short, splice it while it is being used as
the core for a Beaded Bar (# 2508 ). Tease the two ends and scrape
them to a taper. Divide each end in three parts and crotch the two
ends. Twist them to the right, and, with a piece of thread the same
color as the cord, serve them against the twist or lay. This splice is
described more fully as # 2686 .
2500. The Single Genoese Bar consists of Left and Right Half
Hitches tied alternately with two cords around a double warp.
2501. The Double Genoese Bar consists of Clove Hitches tied
alternately with two cords around a double warp.
2502. The Waved or Shell Bar is tied with two warps and two
cords. Put on five identical Left Half Hitches or Tatting Knots
with the left cord while the right cord remains inert. Then lay out
the left cord and tie five identical Right Half Hitches with the
right cord. Continue to do this, alternating with the right and left
cord. Don’t allow the cord to twist.
2503. The Waved or Shell Bar may be tied with seven identical
Half Hitches. Seven and five appear to be the conventional num-
ber of hitches to employ for this particular bar.
2504. Single Tatted Chain is also called the “Seesaw Knot.”
Although much used in square knotting, this is not termed a bar.
The distinction is made because this knot is not tied over a warp. It
consists of alternate Half Hitches tied in two cords alternately
around each other.
2505. The Double Tatted Chain is similar but is tied with two
double cords. Care must be exercised to keep the knots uniform.
[ 4 01 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2 SO<b
2506. Zigzag Bars. Three working cords are doubled and secured
to the foundation cord. The leader or warp zigzags the whole length
of the structure and the working or knotting threads are tied to it
with Clove Hitches. A line of knots staggers right and left down
the length of the structure.
2507. Intertwined Bars. Three strands are doubled and secured
to the foundation. The two center ones are employed as leaders. The
outside ones are turned inward and each is clove hitched to the near-
est leader. The four working strands are then crowned as illus-
trated and, continuing in the same diagonal in which they were
started, are clove hitched again, but to the opposite leaders, which
have been turned inward. The leaders are now at the center, where
they are clove hitched to each other as shown in the lower drawing.
After this the same figure is repeated until the structure has the
desired length.
2508 . A Beaded Bar starts the same as the Zigzag Bar (#250 6),
but several bars are made parallel and close to each other, and one
cord serves as a leader for only one diagonal, after which the next
cord becomes the leader.
2509. Opposed Bars. The illustration shows two parallel Beaded
Bars tied in close contact. Six doubled strands are employed and are
divided into two units, the right unit being tied the reverse of the
left.
When two Beaded Bars have been tied in both halves, the right
leader is clove hitched around the left and the two leaders cross to
opposite sides. The Beaded Bars are made as before, but in such way
that a Double Bar zigzags down each half of the pattern.
2510. A Japanese Knot that was tied with several Solomon
Knots (#2496).
Two cords are doubled and laid parallel. At the center they are
doubled, forming two bights and four parallel strands. The outer
ends of the two bights are square knotted around the two center
strands. After this knot is tied the two working strands are formed
into the large circle and remain inactive while the other two ends
that served as leaders for the first Square Knot are each half hitched
to one side of the circle and then tied together in a Square Knot at
the center. They then are each half hitched again to the side of the
circle. Having completed this, they are brought to the center as
leaders and the ends which form the large circle are square knotted
around them.
2511. This tassel from a gangway fender was one of a pair. It was
made of white painted sash cord, and is the only thing of the sort
that I have ever seen. It is sailor work and was found in the Boston
Antique Shop. The end bears a Turk’s-Head tassel.
2512. A knot shown by Bocher. It is built up of several True-
Lover’s Knots, and only the two wings suggest square knotting.
First tie the top and center True-Lover’s Knots without any inter-
lacement. Then cross the loop tips at either side and pin out on a
board. After this tie the lower Half Knot of the lower True-
Lovfr’s Knot, reeve the ends as pictured, tie the upper half of the
True-Lover’s Knot and stick the ends down through the lower half.
[ 4° 2 ]
SQUARE KNOTTING
2513 . The Japanese lanyards shown on this page are interesting
because they combine sailor’s knots, fancy knots, Priest Cord Knots
and macrame. No one except a Japanese or a sailor would attempt
such a salmagundi.
In the left lanyard one cord is half hitched to the bight of another,
as #2487, and, using the single cord as a warp or leader, a Solomon
Bar of six Half Knots is made with the other two strands, as # 2496.
This is followed by an uncomplicated section of two and one half
inches, then a Solomon Knot (#2496), followed by another uncom-
plicated two and one half inches. It is then finished off with six
Half Knots.
2514 . A Four-Bight, Three-Lead, Three-Ply Turk’s-Head.
2515 . A knot similar to Priest Cord Knot #2379 except that it
has one less Overhand Knot to a side and is made with a single
strand instead of a doubled one.
The lower half of the lanyard is a replica of the upper half in the
reverse except that the final knot is a Three-Strand Diamond Knot
(#693) instead of a Turk’s-Head.
2516 . This diagram portrays one of the eight vertical panels that
are repeated around the old sailor’s handbag which is shown as one of
the frontispieces. The handle (see frontispiece) has no square knot-
ting on it. The grip is needle hitched (#3544) and finished off with
a Four-Lead, Three-Bight, Four-Ply Turk’s-Head, edged and
tipped with turkey-red cotton cloth. The legs are Four-Strand
Round Sin net, four cords to each strand, and the knots in the ends
are the Acorns described on page 565.
Each of these vertical sections consists of twenty cords. They are
secured to a double foundation cord with Cow or Bale Sling
Hitches, and a second (single) foundation below the first is secured
with Clove Hitches. There are four horizontal sections in the bag,
divided horizontally with single foundation cords, and the first and
third of these consist of a series of “bars,” each bar of four cords,
and every fourth bar around the bag consists of four uncomplicated
parallel cords. The remaining three spaces are filled up with four
different bars in no regular order, except that two alike are not
found in the same panel. The four are Double Tatted Bar #2505,
Twisted Bar #2494, Solomon Bar #2496, and Genoa Bar #2500.
The second and fourth horizontal sections are made of Beaded
Bars (#2508), the strands between them being made up into Single
Tatted Chains (#2504). Vertically around the center in the second
horizontal section a Solomon Bar is arranged Turk’s-Head fashion.
2517 . Below the fourth horizontal section Single Beaded Bars
are made (#2508 and #2509) and then a knotted fringe is added
(see page 584).
2518 . The second Japanese lanyard is started as the other and
made into a long Bannister Bar (#2496) with a single cord warp
(#2493).
2519 . When close to the center, a Double Wall Knot is tied, as
detailed at the bottom of the page.
2520 . The center knot consists of two True-Lover’s Knots with
the loops interlaced so that they form a Carrick Bend. A Thrff-
Lead, Four-Bight, Three-Ply Turk’s-Head is added at the center.
[ 4 ° 3 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2521 . Captain Albert Whitney, of Staten Island, made the accom-
panying lanyard of twelve small cords.
The ball was probably made first, and the six cords were middled
and seized around it. Eight of these strands form a core for the lan
four remaining strands are spaced evenly around the core and
two opposite ones are knotted together. Then the other pair i$
knotted in the same direction with identical Half Knots. They must
be tied tightly and care exercised that the corkscrewing pairs are
evenly spaced ninety degrees apart. Each pair is knotted forty times
(the two pairs make eighty times) to form a section. Then the knots
are reversed and another section of eighty knots is made, which
helix in the opposite direction. The cord has twelve sections of this
helix, after which the end is finished off by dividing the twelve strands
into three parts. Two parts of four strands each are made up into
Twisted Bars (#2494) and one into Solomon Bar #2496. Pre-
sumably this cord was intended for a bell lanyard.
2522. Directions are given for making the ball on page 568.
2523. A square knotted yoke rope is in the collection of the New
Bedford Whaling Museum, made over a two-inch cotton rope.
The top section is seized into the rudder yoke of a yawl boat or
gig. The round knob consists of a Five-Lead, Four-Bight, Eight-
Ply Turk’s-Head that is tied over a Manrope Knot.
2524 . A section of Eight-Strand Square Sinnet (#3001) into
which the yoke rope is buttoned.
2525. The end of the yoke rope, which is tied into a Matthew
Walker Knot, is tufted. Below this knot thirty-two strands of fish-
line are evenly seized around the rope. The joint is covered with
Turk’s-Head #2523.
2526. A Five-Lead, Four-Bight, Four-Ply Turk’s-Head divides
the several sections.
2527 . Coach whipping or Cross-Pointing (#3022) of sixteen
leads, two-ply (thirty-two strands of fishline in all).
2528 . Ten Solomon Bars. Two of them have a double warp, the
rest have single warps. There are thirty-two strands in all and sev-
enty Half Knots in each of the Solomon Bars.
2529. Needlework (#3547) which resembles a ribbed stocking.
2530. Twisted or Bannister Bars of the same length, number and
size as #2528.
2531 . Eight-Lead, Four-Ply Coach whipping. This section of
rope is moused (#3499) to make a good handle with which to steer.
Numbers 2527, 2529, and 2531 should be a little longer than #2528
and #2530. The end is the same as #2525.
2532 . A window-shade or electric-light pull may be tied with any
of the bars shown on pages 400 and 401 using two doubled cords
for a loop, and finishing off with one of the tassels shown in Chapter
4 1 *
2533. This is similar to the last except that a loop is formed in the
end, under the Turk’s-Head.
The lanyard is made of alternate sections of Solomon and Ban-
nister Bars. A metal ring is ringbolt hitched (#3605) and secured
to the lanyard with a Ring Hitch.
[ 4°4 ]
CHAPTER 33: TRICKS AND PUZZLES
“Now here's this Bandy bug , ” the Prime Minister was saying.
“ What does he know about untying the knots in a cord of wood?"
“Nothing!” said the Queen , positively. u Absolutely nothing!”
Charles Edward Carryl: Davy and the Goblin
Most of these tricks and puzzles were shown to me by sailors, but
many friends and acquaintances ashore have contributed as well. A
few of the string figures were found in the ethnological reports of
the Smithsonian Institution, and several others in works on cat’s
cradles by W. W. Rouse Ball and Kathleen Haddon. A number are
from a little booklet entitled The Parlor Magician that was pub-
lished in New York about i860.
Knot tricks in general require no especial apparatus other than a
piece of twine or a bit of clothesline. For that reason they are espe-
cially adapted for indoor entertainment.
Some of the sailor’s tricks and puzzles have fragments of spun
yam attached to them, which make the best sort of patter; and as
everyone knows, a trick without its patter cannot stand alone.
The main difference between a trick and a puzzle seems to be
that the latter takes so much time to demonstrate that the attention
of the audience cannot be held to the end. For that reason, if it is to
be presented as a trick, it is well to have a build-up of thwarted
effort on the part of the audience itself. This is generally accom-
panied with much pseudo explanation and sham assistance from the
performer. In the end the audience is generally only too glad to have
the performer finish the trick or puzzle himself.
[ 4° 5 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2534. The Tom Fool’s Knot is the sailor’s favorite “parlor trick.”
It is tied quickly but not hurriedly and for some reason is very dif-
ficult to follow. The eye, of course, is intentionally misled. The suc-
cess of the performance depends in almost equal parts on the dex-
terity of the left hand and a distracting twiddling that is maintained
by the fingers of the right hand, and which has nothing at all to
do with tying the knot.
Take a piece of cord or banding five and a half feet long and hold
it across the upturned palms, which should be about twenty inches
apart. The length of the cord is important since the ends must be
long enough to overbalance by a little the weight of the bight be*
tween the hands.
Alongside are five drawings of the left hand and two of the right.
After assuming the position illustrated at the top of the page, the
two hands are brought together, and as they approach, the right
fingers are busily twiddled as if the whole trick depended on them.
Make this appear as reasonable and as necessary as you can. In the
meanwhile the left thumb picks up the cord (second drawing of
left hand). The fingers are at once withdrawn and then thrust for*
ward again, but this time to the left side of the left cord end (third
drawing of left hand). Immediately after this the center bight is
flirted to the back of the left hand as shown by the arrow in the
same drawing. The two hands should at this time appear as in the
fifth and sixth drawings.
The hands are now brought together (left lower diagram), and
opposite ends are grasped with the finger tips as pictured. As the
hands are again separated, the knot appears, full-blown, as drawn
in the final drawing. The trick should be performed with one con-
tinuous rhythmical movement, which adds materially to its effect.
As the exhibitor unhurriedly ties the knot over and over again the
mystification will grow.
Once the hypnotic influence of the twiddling fingers has been felt,
no one is going to solve the problem unless he has been “tipped off”
beforehand. The performer should talk incessantly as he demon-
strates and be as sympathetic and helpful as possible. And each time
the knot is repeated he promises faithfully that this time he will tie
it “as slowly as possible” so that “no one can fail ” to solve it. This
endears him to the audience and does not hurt his trick in the least.
2535. Here is depicted the sailor’s favorite puzzle for the land-
lubber.
“How would you lower yourself from the edge of a precipice,
with a rope just long enough to reach the ground, and then con-
tinue on your way carrying your rope with you?” The answer to
this is the Slippery Hitch. It is a safe knot when tied properly, but
you should never allow anyone else to tie it for you.
A good trick should always puzzle, but the reverse is not always
true. The knot just given, I should say, belongs to the latter class.
It can be demonstrated as a trick, but the place and the tree are
difficult to produce at a moment’s notice. Most decidedly it is not a
“parlor trick.”
[ 406 ]
TRICKS AND PUZZLES
llie problems that are based on well-known practical knots gen-
erally prove the most interesting, since the spectator finds himself
on familiar ground. The next few examples depict one-hand methods
of tying practical knots that ordinarily require two hands.
2536. The Overhand Knot. To tie with one hand: Pick up the
string, and allow a short end to fall to the back of the hand; engage
the little finger in the bight that crosses the palm, turn the hand
palm downward, and grasp the short end with the fore and second
fingers. Incline the hand downward; shake the loop from around the
hand and an Overhand Knot will be found in the string.
2537. To tie a Noose with one hand is almost a repetition of the
last knot. But the end at the back of the hand must be longer, and
the fore and second fingers grasp a bight instead of the end. When
the loop around the back of the hand is shaken off it will form a
Noose. Do not hesitate to show this knot immediately after the
other, as the spectators will assume that the difference is fundamental
although it really is superficial.
2538. 2539. The next two knots are cowboy tricks to be tied with
a lariat; they were shown to me by a trouper who used to spin a
rope in the Pantages circuit. A stiff rope, either hard plain-laid, or
of the sash-cord type, is employed with a heavy honda in the end.
This may be an Eye Splice around a thimble, or an eye that is
wrapped or served with copper wire.
The standing end of the rope hangs over the back of the wrist and
a loop is formed in the hand which is held in two places as illustrated,
the little finger and the thumb and forefinger being engaged. The
loop should be about six inches in diameter. The honda end is now
dropped over the back of the hand. Hold the forearm horizontal
with the honda hanging just clear of the ground.
A smooth upward jerk is made, strong enough to bring the honda
to hand. As it pauses at the top of its trajectory the loop in hand
is gently swayed either left or right, around the honda, as indicated
in the diagram. Number 2538 forms an Overhand Knot.
Number 2539 forms either a Figure-Eight Knot or its perversion,
which is called by the cowboy a Pretzel Knot. The latter is the
knot shown at the left of the Figure-Eight. The aim is to swing the
loop so smoothly and slightly that it appears as if the jerk were
the whole trick. This is easier than one might think.
2540. To tie a Ring or Bale Sling Hitch with one hand: Hang
a loop over the thumb, with both ends crossing the palm. Engage the
little finger with the end that hangs from the back of the thumb and
bring it forward underneath the other end. Then transfer it from
the little finger to the tip of the forefinger. The knot is completed
when the thumb and forefinger are brought together and the two
bights are slipped to the thumb.
The following series of knots consists of “trick” ways of tying the
familiar and practical Clove Hitch. Most of these will, on occasion,
prove to be practical methods. Number 2543 is perhaps the best
and certainly the quickest way there is to tie the Clove Hitch in
large rope.
f 4 ° 7 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2541. A method of tying this familiar knot with one hand. If the
technique given is followed carefully, after a little practice it will
be found that the knot can be tied almost instantaneously. After
the position of the third diagram is reached and the cord grasped
with the two fingers, the hand should be held erect (lingers up)
and at once the loops will fall into the position of the fourth dia-
gram; which completes the knot as the thumb and forefinger are
brought together.
2542. To tie a Clove Hitch with two fingers is far simpler than
it appears. It is based on a common practical method which fol-
lows this, in which two hands are employed. Hold the right hand
palm up. Place the forefinger under the string, which is laid flat
on the table. Hold the left hand palm down, forefinger on top of
the string. Grip the string with the forefingers and rotate each hand
a half turn. Then without turning them further place the hitch from
the right finger against the tip of the left forefinger, which com-
pletes the knot.
2543. The last two knots, #2541 and # 2542 , should be tied in
small material but this one is ordinarily tied in heavy rope or hawser.
It was shown to me by E. E. du Pont under the title “Steamboat
Hitch.” It is employed on coastwise and river steamers. In a large
hawser the bight, which in the first diagram is pictured as a straight
piece of rope held between two hands, should be gathered into a
loop or bight containing sufficient material to pass around whatever
object the hitch is designed for. If this is a pile on a wharf, as much
as six or ten feet of rope may be required between the two hands.
The hitch formed will be in diameter about one third the length of
this bight, but sufficient allowance must be made so that it will
drop easily over a post, bollard or pile.
The arms are crossed as far as possible, backs of hands are held
uppermost and with right forearm on top. The rope is grasped
firmly, and, with the backs of the hands kept constantly uppermost,
the arms are rotated until the left hand is on top in the position of
the last diagram. Examination will show that a Clove Hitch of
large size has been tied. Although often tied as a trick, this is one
of the most practical ways to form the knot.
2544. The bale hook method of tying the Clove Hitch was shown
to me by a North River stevedore. It is the same thing as the com-
mon sailor’s way of picking one from the deck with one hand while
his other hand is occupied. In the latter case use a hand instead of
a hook. A little practice may be required to learn the ways of the
bale hook, unless you were born a stevedore.
2545. This knot was mislaid.
[ 4° 8 ]
TRICKS AND PUZZLES
2546. To convert an ordinary Noose into a Clove Hitch. This
may be used successfully either as a puzzle or a trick. Arrange the
Noose carefully as pictured before going ahead with the trick. It
must be tied very loosely so that the bight may be pulled out suf-
ficiently to pass around the post. As it is pulled out it is given a half
twist to the left before being dropped over the post. To make it lie
fair this bight should be dropped below the turn that is already
around the post.
2547. A Clove Hitch from two round turns. Nothing could be
simpler than this, but it is rather surprising when the hitch appears.
The turns are not twisted sidewise in the same plane; the right one
comes forward and up, the left one goes backward and up. When
the two meet the knot is formed.
2548. A series of hitches formed over the left hand. Flexible
clothesline is recommended for this trick. Loops are twirled with
the right hand and caught on the left hand, which is darted forward
to intercept them. With a little practice the process can be ex-
ceedingly rapid. If two hitches only are made the result is a Clove
Hitch.
2549. To convert Two Half Hitches into a Bowline. Captain
Charles W. Smith always told a story while tying this knot. The
story is employed as patter and with the last word the knot is com-
pleted. I have heard the same story told by other sailors without
any considerable variation, and it is apparently old and a part of
the folklore of the sea. This is Captain Smith’s story as nearly in
his own words as I can recall them:
“A bum caught a line that was tossed to shore from a ship , and
made fast with two half hitches. ‘Not that way, you damn ninny!’ ”
(Ninny was Captain Smith’s ultimate cuss word.) “ ‘Put a bowline
in that there blankety-blank line and be damn quick about it,’ bawls
the mate from deck.
“‘Bowline it is, sir!’ says the bum, and he puts the end down
through and hauls her taut, and damned if it r wa > n > t a bowline!’’ Of
course this procedure makes a Left-Hand Bowline which is not so
secure as the Bowline proper. After the Two Half Hitches have
been loosely tied the end is laid up parallel with its own part and
the two are together hauled down through the loop of the original
Two Half Hitches. In this way a new loop is formed and the first
one is removed by pulling on the standing part.
2550. The following is a somewhat more cumbersome method
that sometimes goes with the same story. But this one retains the
original loop made by the first Two Half Hitches. Like the former,
it makes a Left-Hand Bowline when the rather elaborate con-
glomerate of the second diagram is capsized into its final form. It
was first shown to me by John B. Cornell, of Cutty hunk.
[ 4 ° 9 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2551. As a trick the foregoing seems preferable to this which
follows, for the reason that Two Half Hitches is the commonest
of all hitches; but the fact remains that they capsize into a Left-
Hand Bowline, which is scorned by the sailor. The Right-Hand
Bowline, which is a real sailor’s knot, may be made in a manner
w
similar to #2549 but is commenced with Reversed Half Hitches.
The latter is a knot that is occasionally used ashore but is seldom
*
seen aboard ship. In performing the knot as a trick the same “busi-
ness” and “patter” are used and the knot tied in the same wav as
^ 2 549-
2552. A Square Knot may be capsized into Reversed Half
H itches, and under some circumstances this is a very practical way
to make the knot. When tied as a trick, the audience should be re-
quested to name the knot that is being tied. After they have an-
nounced that it is a Square Knot, the performer examines it with
some surprise and is forced to announce that it is something quite
different, in fact Reversed Half Hitches.
2553. A Granny Knot capsizes into Two Half Hitches. As Two
Half Hitches is more common, and the name much better known
to the layman than the last, this perhaps provides the better trick.
Most of the audience will be able to recognize and name the Granny,
which is first tied. When the performer produces the Two Half
Hitches, the finished knot proves equally familiar. If the single jerk,
which is all that is required to effect the change, is somewhat ob-
scured, the mystification is complete and the fact that most every-
one knows both these knots adds greatly to the interest.
2554. The Jug or Jar Sling (#1142) is a highly specialized knot
that serves one exceedingly practical purpose. But it is little known to
the general public. Years ago I carried an alcohol cooks tove in my boat,
and one day I cruised into a small Cape Cod harbor where I replenished
my supply of fuel at the local drugstore. Someone became interested
in the Jug Sling Knot that I had on my one-gallon bottle, and to
demonstrate its security I swung the bottle around and over my head,
and of course up over the glass counters, much as one would whirl an
Indian club. I was intent on my demonstration and the barks and
screams of the druggist at first failed to distract me. It seemed that he
resented the performance but dared not physically interfere for fear of
precipitating a catastrophe. I have always attributed my safe exit from
the shop to the presence of mind which prompted me to continue to
oscillate the bottle until I was well outside the door.
I believe that a knowledge of this particular knot would have
been of great value to that druggist. It would have helped him to
market larger and fuller bottles. Moreover a demonstration now and
then, of the sort that I had afforded, would undoubtedly have
brought trade to his door.
2555. The Magnus or Rolling Hitch is an exceedingly practical
knot that is easily converted into a trick. Its success depends on the
glibness of the performer.
[ 4 10 ]
TRICKS AND PUZZLES
After the knot is tied, ask a spectator to pull on it strongly. Put
your hand on the rope, ostensibly to find if it is working satisfac-
torily, and with an easy sweeping gesture slide the knot toward the
puller, who will at once seat himself on the floor.
All humor, according to Mark Twain, is based on the enjoyment
of a little suffering that is experienced by someone else.
2556. A puzzle. If you ever find yourself up a pole, with a rope
just long enough to reach the ground, how do you lower yourself
by means of the rope and then continue on your way, taking the
rope along with you? Tie the knot shown and shake it from the
pole when you’ve reached the bottom. It is, however, a dangerous
knot to be careless with.
2557. The Awning Knot. Tie the knot and jam the second turn
down, inside the first, and place a cushion on the floor. Announce
that you will pull against the knot and that at “the word of com-
mand” the knot will spill and that you will then seat yourself on
the cushion. Make your own choice of a magic word. Pronounce it,
and in all probability nothing will happen. If anything does happen
the trick is at once successful and you pass on to something else.
But if nothing happens “command” the knot several times with
rising anger, pulling steadily against it, then, losing your temper
completely, you kick the knot, and at once you find yourself seated.
2558. The “Tug-of-War Knot.” This provides a variation of the
trick already given as # 2555 . Secure two ardent young investigators.
Put one hand on each knot and tell the contestants to “start pull-
ing gradually.” When they are well off balance and have pulled
to their hearts’ content, slide the two parts quickly together and
the knot will decide the winner. Select boys from twelve to fifteen,
because at that age they do not bruise easily and will enjoy the fun
as much as anyone else.
2559. The Monkey Chain. A Chain Sinnet is often used in
vaudeville and circus to give the audience a mild thrill. The per-
former, suspended aloft and swinging over the heads of the audience,
lets go the ends of the chain and apparently is flung at the heads
of the audience, but the drop is at most only two or three feet.
2560. To tie up a “Houdini.” Take a soft cord and put a Con-
strictor Knot about the two wrists of the victim. Draw up snugly
but not enough to cut off circulation. Have a sharp knife ready to
cut the cord.
2561. The Bag Knot, also called the Bread Bag Knot. At sea a
certain amount of hard bread or sea biscuit was allowed each watch
and was kept in a heavy canvas bag. The story is that a thief was
suspected and that a knot was fashioned, as here shown, which at
first sight is hardly distinguishable from a Reef Knot. The unwit-
ting culprit, of course, always retied the bag with a Reef Knot and
so was invariably detected.
[ 4 11 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2562. The method of tying a Sheet Bend to a short end was
taught me many years ago by Mrs. Thomas Knowles, who used it
in her yarn while knitting. It is a knot with which to astound even
the initiated. Few sailors know it, probably because it is unsuitable
for large material.
A little practice will be required to find just how short an end
may be tied, which varies with the material used, and also just how ]
snug the Noose is to be drawn before it is slipped over the short end. ]
A spectator is asked to hold up a short end and a slack Noose is
slipped around the upheld end. The two ends of the Noose are then
pulled apart, until the short end that is held by the spectator is
“swallowed,” when it will be found that a Sheet Bend has been tied.
2563. In the next few tricks, certain well-known symmetrical knots
are produced unexpectedly from a few simple turns or hitches. Their
interest depends entirely on the ease and celerity with which they
are tied. The first to be shown is the sailor’s Masthead or Jury
Mast Knot, which is employed practically as a temporary strap to
which stays are led when erecting a jury mast or derrick. Three
hitches are made, fairly large, and the three are extended as indicated
by the arrows. Sometimes the top loop is pulled out with the teeth
in lieu of a third hand, but a skillful sailor uses only his two hands.
The side loops should be completely interlaced and then all three
loops are extended in the same instant.
2564. The Spanish Bowline, when put in heavy rope, provides an
excellent means for slinging a ladder as a staging. When tying the
knot as a “parlor trick” the two extended loops of the final diagram
are drawn simultaneously through the upper loops shown in the
first diagram. Start the knot as in the first diagram of # 2554 , twist
the two top loops a half turn each, turn the knot around and arrange
as shown in the first drawing here.
2565. The Farmer’s Loop. I found this knot in a farm bulletin,
published at Cornell University and written by Professor H. W.
Riley. Three loops may be taken with a soft cord around the left
forefinger. Then with the right hand these loops are jumped, right,
left, right, with dazzling rapidity, to form the finished loop, which is
shown partly drawn out in the fourth diagram and completed in
the fifth.
2566. The trick method of tying a Sheepshank Knot. Three
hitches are made exactly as in $2563 for the Masthead Knot but
only the center hitch or loop is extended. For this reason the center
hitch may be larger than the end ones. The two sides of the center
hitch, shown in the first diagram, are held with the thumbs and
forefingers and the ends of the cord are encircled with the little
fingers and pulled upon. The end hitches close around the two end
loops. The knot is produced with what appears to be a single jerk.
This will require a little rehearsal.
2567. Cut the knot that was last tied, as shown in this diagram,
and two spectators may be allowed to pull steadily on the two ends,
but if jerked upon, the knot is apt to upset.
2568. The Sheepshank with an Overhand Knot, also called
“Sword Knot.” So far as the sailor is concerned, this is purely a
trick knot. Four hitches are made and then the four bights are pulled
or jerked through opposite sides of the knot. Do not be concerned
[ 4 12 1
TRICKS AND PUZZLES
if at this point the knot appears bunchy and unattractive, as this
merely adds to the effectiveness of the trick. Grasp the ends of the
cord, count three and, at the count of three, give a strong jerk. If
the rope straightens (as it sometimes will) and nothing results, do
not allow your audience to think the failure wholly unexpected.
The next time make the hitches or loops a little larger. When the
knot finally appears, a quick prod may be needed to make it abso-
lutely symmetrical.
2569. The Theodore Knot. This is the cowboy’s most elaborate
hackcrmore , a name applied to any temporary or emergency bridle
or halter. The knot was shown to me by Will James. It is based on
the sailor’s Multi-Strand Diamond Knot and the trick is to succeed
in tying it.
To tie: Double a long piece of cord and turn the ends up even
with the center loop. Stop all four parts together at half length.
Allow the center loop to hang downward and stop the loop above the
first stop.
Turn the original center loop upward in a right diagonal, and
reeve the ends down through it as in the first diagram. Next reeve
the two ends upward and to the right, moving the left one first and
tucking it through the top bight of the leg of the loop that was first
tucked. Tuck the remaining end through the next bight to the right,
cut the second stop and tighten the knot partially. Finally cut the
first stop and draw the knot snug. After practice the knot should be
tied in hand without employing any stops.
Philip Ashton Rollins tells me that this knot was originally called
“Fiador.” It came from South America by way of Mexico. When
Theodore Roosevelt visited our Southwest after the Spanish-
American War, the name was changed to “Theodore” quite spon-
taneously.
2570. Threading a loop: Leave an end about ten inches long and
take several turns around the left thumb (four is about the right
number) in the direction shown in the diagram, finishing with a
very small loop , at the thumb end. The smallness of the loop makes
the trick more effective. Announce that you will drive the end
through the loop with one dart of the right hand. Take the left end
in the right hand, aim the tip at the loop and approach the loop sev-
eral times, then quickly dart the end directly by the tip of the
thumb until it fetches, when it will be found that the loop is
threaded. If the end is held taut it will not be noticed that the loop
has been threaded in the wrong direction, but to make the matter
doubly sure, the forefinger of the left hand may be retracted a bit,
which will turn the loop in the right direction. The end that was
darted has passed under the thumb, and one turn has disappeared
from the thumb.
2571. “Rabbit in the Hole.” Shown to me by Dr. John H. Cun-
ningham, Waldo Howland and Melbourne Christopher, the pro-
fessional knot magician. The latter is the most finished performer
of knot tricks that I have ever had the pleasure of seeing at work.
This one belongs to that annoying “Just-see-if-you-can-do-it”
class of tricks. The string is held for a moment as in the first diagram,
then the remainder is done in a flash, and the little loop which repre-
sents the rabbit is held aloft.
[ 4*3 ]
oj'»
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
25*73
2572. The Whirling Ring. Another “See-if-you-can-do-it” trick,
equally easy, and just as annoying as the last. To perform the trick
spin the hands around with the two finger tips inside the loop or
ring. First one way, then reverse. Close the thumbs and forefingers
of both hands when in the position of the second diagram, then
move the hands together until the thumbs touch the tips of the op-
posite forefingers. Open both hands without separating opposite
thumbs and forefingers. Although the ring appears to be still in-
volved, it falls to the floor quite free. The trick is ridiculously simple
and somewhat pointless, yet there are over one hundred million
people in these United States alone who won’t have the least idea
of how to do it even after they have been shown. Dr. John H. Cun-
ningham first showed it to me.
2573. An elusive knot. The effectiveness of this trick depends al-
most entirely on the patter. The feebler the patter, the more suitable
it seems to be. This is the way I got it from Arthur Carlsen, who
showed it to me.
“This is one of the queerest knots. Some days I can tie it, some
days I can’t. First I will tie a half knot, then I will add another half
knot, which makes a good solid square knot. Anyone may examine
this who wishes to. I am going to add a hitch here and then I will
stick the end there. Now when I pull the two ends be prepared to
see something remarkable.” The knot disappears. “H-mm, I think
I shall drop this knot from my act; this is the third day in a row
that it hasn’t worked.”
2574. A similar trick was shown to me by its originator, Mel-
bourne Christopher; I do not believe I am betraying a trust in show-
ing it and I wouldn’t know how to gain his permission as his last
address was somewhere in central Europe.
A, B and C are tied slowly for the audience to observe, but D is
stuck without the knowledge of the audience at the same time C is
being stuck. The knot is tied for the ostensible purpose of selecting
a suitable rope for something else that is to follow. So, after the knot
has spilled completely two or three times, the rope is discarded as
unsuitable, and another rope is substituted, with which the act passes
on to something else.
2575. To change a Reef or Square Knot into two Overhand
Knots, and to change these back again. Given as a puzzle, this is
not apt to be solved in a hurry but it may also be treated as a trick.
The Reef Knot (diagram i) falls very simply into the form of two
Overhands (diagram 2), but the reverse may not be so inevitable,
as often the second Half Knot takes the form of a Half Hitch,
in which all the turns are in one end. But it is only necessary to move
the left end to the right, the right to the left and the Reef Knot
will materialize. In both cases a knot is pulled as indicated by the
arrow but the end of the rope must not be allowed to follow
through.
2 5 75 "
[ 414 ]
TRICKS AND PUZZLES
2576. Puzzle: To hold in hand the opposite corners of an un-
knotted handkerchief and, without once letting go, to tie a knot in
the handkerchief. This has also been called the “Fourth-Dimen-
sional Knot” because it appears from nowhere in particular. The
spectators having failed to solve the puzzle, the performer seats
himself at a table with a handkerchief stretched before him. He
folds his arms and dallies negligently, first with one end of the hand-
kerchief, then the other; suddenly, as he unfolds his arms, the knot
appears.
It is necessary to get hold of both ends of the handkerchief with
the finger tips while the arms are folded. When the arms are un-
folded the knot is transferred from the arms to the handkerchief.
2577. To spill a Reef or Square Knot that has been tied by one of
the audience. While talking you ostensibly tighten the knot by pull-
ing at first one end and then the other, and at the right moment, un-
seen by the audience, you pull and straighten out the knot as shown
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C' * WTLi £ iraiiu. NT iKiY'y OiT“OpCli
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your hand there is no knot, it having slipped off the end as shown by
the arrows in the second diagram. This is the way sailors untie reef
points.
2578. To untie a Clove Hitch. Take a stiff piece of rope about
four yards long; new sash cord three eighths of an inch in diameter
is recommended. Have a member of the audience tie a Clove Hitch
with a long end tightly around a square upturned table or chair
leg.
Then in an unhurried way stroll around and around the table
leg, and the audience, to their amazement, will see the much-
respected knot unwind itself without offering any resistance what-
ever.
2579. The Whatnot provides one of the prettiest of rope tricks.
Take two pieces of sash cord or banding each five feet long. Tie the
knot loosely as in the center diagram and grasp the two untied ends
in the hands. Pull on the two ends and the knot will take the form
of the left diagram and roll before the spectators’ eyes from one
end of the rope to the other. Watch the rope carefully and as it
twists (which it will) untwist the ends just enough to relieve it.
Shift your grip as frequently as is necessary. When the knot has
traveled the full length of the ropes, let go the two ends you have
in hand, and roll the knot back again by pulling on the other two
ends. If the knot tends to tighten shift back to the opposite ends
and keep the knot moving. Finally, as you watch closely, you will
see the two ends shift position and take the form shown in the right
diagram. (The difference is in the upper center crossing.) At once
stop pulling and invite two spectators to assist you. Give each one
an end to pull. They will be utterly unable to move the knot the
fractional part of an inch.
2580. To tie a Square Knot in the bight. A puzzle, shown to me
by Arthur Carlsen. Get your cord into the form of each diagram in
turn, before proceeding to the next.
[ 4 1 5 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2581. The “Magical Knot,” also known as the “Fireman’s
Knot” and the “Philadelphia Knot.”
To tie: Take a long piece of banding and build up a series of
hitches over the left thumb. Remove from thumb and stick the
lower end of the cord up through these hitches. Cover all with the
hand except the upstuck end. Lean over your hand and whisper
some magical word that you may think of, then pull steadily on the
protruding end and a long series of knots will march out from
under your fingers. In the meanwhile the twiddling left fingers
hold everything back except the one knot whose turn it is to come
forth. Pull gently so that the knots will remain loosely tied. A series
of at least a dozen are easily made.
2582. Continue to talk animatedly to your audience while you
unostentatiously rearrange the knots as in the diagram, merely tuck-
ing one end through each knot in turn. Let two of the audience step
forward, give each an end (the knots being well bunched and hidden
in your hand). Ask them to pull the knots as tight as possible so
that they will be hard to untie, keep your hands over the knots and,
when they have finished pulling, remove your hand; and the knots
will have entirely disappeared. Six or eight knots are enough for
the trick, but there is no limit to the number that is possible.
2583. Both the Figure-Eight and the Stevedore Knot may be
tied in similar manner. The Figure-Eight is illustrated, but if one
more half turn is added to each upstanding loop in the first diagram
the result will be a series of Stevedore Knots.
2584. An unrecognizable knot. This is a puzzle rather than a trick.
Make one, two or three round turns around a pencil, and add a
Half Knot. Remove and work the knot taut, pulling as little as
possible on the ends and retaining all possible twist within the knot.
The knot should already be in pocket when you announce to
your audience, preferably a small one and of the sporting gentry,
that you have in your possession a knot that no one present has ever
seen before. There are always people present who have seen every-
thing there is to be seen, so in the ensuing argument produce the
knot and place a few judicious bets. State that you will pay all bets
if anyone present can produce a duplicate.
Allow no one to touch the knot, for there is always someone who
will innocently attempt to untie it. Put it on the table in full view
and allow anyone to turn it over with a match or pencil. Finally
someone will tie a Figure-Eight Knot in another cord, which will
appear to be the same thing. You must have both knots opened with-
out permitting an end from either to be withdrawn. It will at once
be evident to all that your trick knot is merely an Overhand Knot.
2585. A puzzle. How to put an Eye Splice in the bight of a rope.
Twist the rope and crowd a central section together, which will
cause the three strands to protrude separately in three bights. This
is called crowfootmg a rope . Make an ordinary Eye Splice tucked
[ 416 ]
TRICKS AND PUZZLES
twice, sticking bights instead of ends. This splice is valueless except
as a trick, being ruinous to rope.
2585 1 / 2 . False braid . Take four strands, secure them to a hook or
other holdfast and arrange with three strands in the left hand and
one in the right. Take the outermost left strand and cross it over
its two sister strands, laying it snugly parallel and below the single
right strand. Now take the next (outermost) left strand and lay it
snugly across its one remaining sister strand and parallel to and
below the preceding one. This completes one cycle.
There will now be three strands in the right and only one in the
left hand. Take the outermost right strand and lay it across its
two sister strands and place it parallel to and below the single left
strand. Take the next (outermost) strand of the right side, lay it
across its single sister strand and place it parallel to and below the
two left strands. This completes the second cycle. Repeat alternately
left and right until the desired amount of braid is completed. Lay the
strands snugly and the product will resemble ordinary Flat Sinnet.
If well made, it will stand ordinary usage, but give it several smart
jerks and perhaps a little assistance with a finger if necessary, and it
will at once resolve itself into two two-strand ropes, one right-laid,
the other left-laid. To make an effective trick for a large audience use
material that is large and soft.
2586. Having tied a Bowline into a Bowline on the bight , the
trick is to remove the latter without disturbing the former. This
interesting puzzle was propounded to me by a sailor of the Eastern
Shore of Maryland. He had heard the problem but did not know the
answer. After experiment it was solved in two ways.
A piece of banding may be used, the loops should be large and
the rope between long. The standing part of the rope should be held
by a spectator or else be secured to another object, and is not to be
tampered with.
The Bowline on the bight can be very quickly and easily re-
moved by first loosening it and then rolling it back away from the
standing part, exactly as a stocking is rolled inside out but without
disturbing the single Bowline. This is a method used at sea for
disentangling small lines. All that is necessary is to keep in mind that
at no time must the standing part be pulled or tightened. This is so
simple that after a little practice the knot may be easily untied be-
hind the performer’s back, while held in full view of the audience.
Moreover if the fingers are kept “busy” the audience may require a
number of demonstrations before they will understand how it is
done.
2587. The Bowline on the bight can be tied back into the Bow-
line without employing either end of the rope. The method is illus-
trated step by step in the accompanying diagrams. Having mastered
these, the reader will not find it difficult to answer the original
proposition by reversing the order of these diagrams.
[ 417 J
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2588. Puzzle: To make a regular Pentagon with an Overhand
Knot. The answer: Take a ribbon of paper and tie an Overhand
Knot in it. Draw up gradually and closely, keeping it flat at all
times. When snug, fold back the ends and as perfect a Pentagon
will result as can be secured with drawing instruments.
2589. Puzzle: To make a regular Pentalpha with the same mate-
rial and a pencil. Hold the knot against a lighted windowpane and
a Pentalpha or five-pointed star is silhouetted. Outline this with
your pencil.
2590. To make a regular Octagon. This is from Admiral Luce’s
Seamanship (1862). The knot is given as a method of making the
straw button required in the top center of a sailor’s hat.
Take a paper ribbon and tie an Overhand Knot in it, tying from
left to right. Every time the ribbon is folded, the end is turned
downward. Be certain that the Overhand Knot takes the open form
of the first diagram. Now turn down the end at point 5 and reeve it
through at 3 and lead it to 6. Stick the end down at 6, lead it over 1
and through 4 to 7. Turn it down at 7 and stick it through 2 and 5.
Turn it down at 8 and stick it through 3 and 6.
Cut the standing end ( 1 ) off even with the edge of the Octagon
and leave the working end just long enough to turn down and sink
out of sight on the underside, in the direction of 2.
2591. To tie an Overhand Knot with a pair of scissors: Take a
paper ribbon one inch wide and about two feet long. A piece of
paper from a narrow adhesive-paper roll is excellent, as the ends
are to be pasted together and the adhesive on such rolls dries
quickly. Twist this ribbon three half turns and stick the ends to-
the ends are secured, take a pair of scissors and divide the
ribbon lengthwise in two. It will be found to be still a single ribbon,
but of twice its original length, half its original width, and with an
Overhand Knot tied in it.
gether.
When
2592. To make an Ellipse by means of a piece of cord, three brads
and a pencil.
Draw two lines at right angles to and crossing each other in the
middle. They should equal the length and width of the proposed
ellipse. The distance C-D is equal to A-B. Take the distance A-B
on a pair of compasses or a ruler and, using D as a center, establish
C-C. Now drive three brads (at C, C, and D). Tie an inelastic
cord snugly around the three brads. Remove the brad at D and
insert the point of a sharp pencil on the inside of this continuous
cord. Keeping the cord at an even tension around both remaining
brads, draw an ellipse along the periphery that is allowed by the
cord.
Aside from being an amusing puzzle, this is an exceedingly practi-
cal way to draw any wanted ellipse.
2593. Snare ( 1 ) . Bend together the two ends of a string five or six
feet long and hold the knotted part in your hand. Without turning
the hand lay the cord on a table from east to west, to south, to
[ 4 ^ 1
TRICKS AND PUZZLES
north. From south to north the doubled string crosses itself at right
angles. Ask someone to place his finger within the string, so that
the string may not be removed. The chances are that he will put it
on the spot marked X, in which case the string easily slides off the
table without engaging the finger. Now lay the cord down again,
but this time, in passing from south to north, twist the cord one
half a right turn as in the second diagram. Then ask the owner of
the finger to try again, but this time to allow the string to be re-
moved. But this time the string will engage the finger if he places it
at X.
2594. Snare ( 2 ). This trick differs from the previous one, in that a
turn of the wrist is made each time the direction of the cord is
changed. The trick is started at N.W. and moved S.E., then S.W.,
then N.W., to N.E. The only difference between the left and right
diagrams is in the over-and-under at the last turn (at W.). Here the
wrist was turned left for the left diagram and right for the other.
In the left diagram the finger will not be snared at X and in the right
diagram it will be.
When a finger is placed at X on either diagram, any of the six
bights at the rim may be pulled on and the result is the same for all
six. The knotted ends are generally pulled.
2595. “Nailed to the mast”: In addition to a piece of string, a knife,
nail or ice pick is required, and one’s hostess should be consulted
before sticking the knife into any of her woodwork. A tree or a
fence post provides a satisfactory prop. Wind the string or rope as
pictured. Hold the two ends in hand. (It is not necessary to tie
them together.) Remove the knife and jerk the string, which will
then apparently pass through the tree. It may be tied with a spec-
tator’s forefinger serving instead of a knife or nail.
2596. “La Garrotte”: Take a right round turn about the victim’s
neck, cross the cord in front, and, with the part leading from below
the right ear on top, move the doubled portion over the victim’s
head to the nape of the neck. Pull snappily on the front bight and,
although the neck is apparently severed, the head will not fall off.
2597. “Fingering the Nose” is claimed by The Parlor Magician to
be “irresistibly funny”: Tie the ends of a thirty-inch cord together.
Take a left round turn and grasp the center between the teeth. Hold
the upper and longer loop with the left hand and move the lo'wer
and shorter loop from underneath around and up to the right, turn-
ing it over the longer loop (right upper diagram). Stick the left
thumb up through the longer loop, the right forefinger through the
shorter loop. Place the right forefinger against the tip of the nose,
face your audience, laugh loudly and draw the string away with the
left hand while the right hand remains in position, devoid of string.
If the whole right hand is passed through the shorter loop instead
of a mere forefinger and the thumb is brought in juxtaposition with
the nose the joke becomes even more irresistible and more up to
date, particularly when the fingers are distended.
[ 419 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
The next five numbers are of the type ordinarily termed “Cutting
the Fingers.” These tricks are common with most primitive people
and are recorded in ethnological reports from almost every quarter
of the globe.
2598. “Cutting the Fingers” (i) was first shown to me by Waldo
Howland. It is given in the Smithsonian 38th Annual Report (Wash-
ington, 1916-17) and also is described by W. W. Rouse Ball, Kath-
leen Haddon, and C. F. Jayne in their works on string figures. When
diagram #2599 has been reached, ignore the arrow that is drawn ,
and cast off the two loops from the thumb, pull forward on the loop
shown at the heel of the hand, and all the fingers will be neatly
severed and the cord removed.
2599. “Cutting the Fingers” (2). If, however, the arrow in the
final diagram of #2598 is followed and the two loops around the
thumb are led to the back of the hand and pulled back taut between
the second and ring fingers, it will be found that the loop which was
pulled in #2598 will no longer be in evidence. An entirely different
and solitary loop or bight now crosses the palm as in #2599. This
is seized and pulled to cut the fingers and spill the knot.
2600. “Cutting the Fingers” (3). Shown to me by Waldo How-
land, given also in the Smithsonian 38th Annual Report . When plac-
ing the cord around the fingers it is given a half turn in the same
direction at each finger. But when the thumb is reached the direction
is changed and the twist also is reversed.
Finally the two bights in the second drawing are removed from
the thumb, the long loop at the little finger is pulled, and again
the fingers are cut.
2601. “Cutting the Fingers” (4). Shown to me by my mother
when I was a child. I have never forgotten it or found it elsewhere
and I still recall how the dispatch with which my fingers were
severed filled me with horror. How children ever survive having
their noses alternately removed and replaced, their fingers lopped off,
their ears snipped, their thumbs twisted off and other like acts of
mayhem is a mystery to me; and yet we live and joyfully pass the
ghastly practices along to the next generation.
2602. “Cutting the Fingers” (5). This one I also learned when a
child, from my uncle, Captain Albert Robbins. I would very much
like to know in just what quarter of the globe he found it. A loop
encircles the thumb and fingers of the left hand. The forefinger of
the right hand is passed between the thumb and forefinger of the
left hand, which leads across the left palm, to hook the back cord.
A bight is pulled forward and twisted half a right turn and then is
dropped over to the back of the finger. Each finger is hitched in
proper turn. When all are arranged, the single loop over the thumb
is cast off, and only the forward half of the cord across the palm
is pulled on to cut the fingers.
In each of the tricks now to be considered the string or cord at
[ 420 1
TRICKS AND PUZZLES
some point reverses and “backtracks.” At some central point the
performer’s hand or thumb holds the cord until the performer wishes
to spill it. In a number of the knots a spectator’s finger or a chair
knob is substituted, which allows the performer’s hands to be free.
2603. Have a spectator hold his forefinger upright. (See left
drawing. ) Over this you pass one of the two looped ends of a con-
tinuous string. The other looped end is held in your right hand.
Twist the right hand to give the cord a right half twist and insert
the left forefinger downward to the left of the crossing and grasp
the crossing with the thumb and finger. Turn the left finger and
thumb upward. The cord is now arranged as in the second drawing,
the spectator’s hand being the one farthest to the left. Announce
that you are going to remove the cord ' without passing any part of
it over the spectator’s finger. In the meanwhile the cord in the right
hand should be shifted to the thumb as shown by the arrow in the
second drawing. Holding the center of the cord taut with the left
hand, the right end is passed toward the spectator’s hand and the tip
of the right thumb is placed on the tip of the spectator’s finger.
The performer’s left hand now casts off either of the two loops it
holds and smartly pulls on the one that remains. Nothing has passed
over the tip of the spectator’s finger, yet the cord is free!
For this reason, perhaps, the trick is more mystifying than others
in which extra loops are added around the spectator’s finger.
2604. “Cutting off the Chair Knob.” A spectator’s finger will make
quite as satisfactory an anchor as a chair knob.
A right round turn is placed over the knob. The cord is held
taut with the performer’s right hand while he places his left fore-
finger across the two parallel parts at about mid-length and drops
the looped end over the two taut parts of his cord. The right hand
is then brought up underneath, two fingers are splayed, right and
left, and stuck up through the two loosely hanging loops; after
which remove the single twist from the outer loop around the left
forefinger tip so that it appears as in the second drawing. This can
be done with the thumb and forefinger without the assistance of
the right hand. Next, with the left forefinger crooked toward you,
transfer both loops to the knob. Hold all taut and cast off the loop
from the right forefinger and at once pull out the loop that remains
on the second finger. All complications will at once vanish.
2605. To remove a string from the butto?ihole without letting go
the string. Use either your own or a spectator’s buttonhole. If
desired, a ring, key or the thumbhole of a pair of scissors may be
substituted. Reeve the string through the buttonhole and be certain
that the string is not crossed between the thumbs. Hold the string
taut, reach out the little finger of the right hand and hook the near-
est bight from the left hand, then hook the other bight with the other
little finger. Then cast off the loops from the left little finger and the
right thumb simultaneously and pull the hands apart. The string will
apparently snap directly through the material of the coat.
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2606. To remove a ring (or key) from a doubled string which is
passed around the two thumbs of a spectator, without disturbing the
spectator. Neither of the loops is to be lifted from the spectator’s
thumbs.
Two bights are made, one in the back part of the string at the left
of the ring and one in the front part at the right of the ring (from
the performer’s viewpoint). These bights may be treated in two
ways; they may be moved one at a time and placed over the left
thumb of the spectator in the order A, B or bight B may be placed
over bight A and then the two together may be placed over the
spectator’s left thumb (which is, of course, the thumb at the right
side of the diagram). In either case do not let go until the spectator
starts to spread his arms. The spectator’s hands have been at first
held loosely in order to allow bights to be formed and placed over
the thumbs, but when the performer casts off, the spectator’s hands
are stretched apart and the ring or key drops off the cord.
2607. To replace the ring. First stick a bight from the near side of
the string through the ring and hold in place with the right hand.
Next, with the left hand place a bight from the rear part of the
string over the spectator’s thumb and then place the bight from
the ring also over the thumb. When the spectator’s hands are spread
apart the ring is found neatly restored to the string.
2608. To knot a ring to a single stringy the two ends of which are
tied around your wrists. (If preferred, this may be done around the
wrists of a spectator.)
A loop (a Bowline Knot) is tied around each wrist. They should
not be tight enough to cause discomfort. Pull forward a bight from
the center and stick it through the ring, give it half a left turn and,
keeping the pictured side uppermost, reeve it up through the loop
that is around the left wrist, then over the left hand and down the
left wrist until it has passed under and below the loop that was first
tied around the wrist. Now lift it off over the hand. The ring will
be found securely knotted to the string.
To remove the same knot: Take the left bight of the knot which
is shown in the right final diagram and place it over the left hand
and over and below the loop that was first tied around the wrist.
Then reeve it up under the original loop and cast off over the hand.
2609. To tie a Figure-Eight Knot in the bight without removing
the loops from the wrists: The first diagram shows the finished
aspect of the trick. In the second diagram is shown a full left turn
made in the bight, which is to be pushed up under the loop around
the left wrist, and then brought down over the hand and under the
wrist loop and finally is cast off over the hand and wrist loop. To
remove this knot proceed exactly in the way described for the
previous knot (# 2608 ), the left bight of the Figure-Eight being
well opened and pulled out before proceeding to untie.
[ 4 22 J
TRICKS AND PUZZLES
2610. To remove a circular cord from around the arm , while the
hand is held in a waistcoat pocket: Take a piece of cord eight feet
long and tie the ends together. Remove the coat, put the right hand
through the looped cord and into the waistcoat pocket. The problem
is to remove the cord without untying it and without removing the
right hand from the pocket or passing the cord through the pocket.
With the left hand pull the cord to the top of the shoulder. Stick
the left hand under the lapel and out through the waistcoat armhole
and pull the cord to the collar and over the head, leading one part
around the back of the neck, the other under the chin. Thrust the
bight out through the left armhole and stick the left arm through the
bight. As the waistcoat is buttoned, a few moments may be required
to work the cord down inside the waistcoat until it has reached the
waist; from there it will drop to the ground.
2611. To remove a pencil that is fast to a coat: Tie a Ring Hitch
into the buttonhole of a spectator’s coat with a short piece of cord
that has been doubled. Secure the ends to a long new lead pencil.
The length of cord between the buttonhole and the pencil should be
about two thirds the length of the pencil. The problem is to remove
the cord from the coat without untying: the pencil end. This was
shown to me by J. M. Drew. The solution is to remove the coat from
the back, then open the Ring Hitch and work the whole coat gradu-
ally out through the bight of the Ring Hitch in the manner indi-
cated by the arrows in the second diagram. Select for a victim
someone who, you feel certain, can well afford to have his coat
2612. To separate two interlocked Bowlines without untying
either: The loop end of one Bowline must be backtracked into the
other knot until it has capped the other end of the rope and is with-
drawn. The second knot must be well opened before it is entered.
2613. Insecure shackles . Two persons are tied together in the
manner pictured. The problem is for them to rid themselves of each
other without untying the knots. The cords should be just long
enough to encourage the couple to attempt various absurdities, but
not so long that they will lose all sense of intimacy. To divorce the
couple: Take a bight from near the center of one cord and, without
twisting it, stick it up under and through one of the end loops in
the other cord, then over the hand, under the loop at the back, and
cast off over the hand.
2614. The “Russian Escape.” A prisoner is supposed to be secured
to his guard in the manner pictured. In his efforts to escape he rubs
his hands together until the heels of his hands pinch a bight of the
rope. It is then an easy matter to roll the bight down as far as the
roots of the fingers, where it can be grasped with the finger tips
of one hand and slipped over the backs of the fingers of the other
hand. The prisoner then pulls away and the cord or rope slips over
the back of his hand and under the handcuff lashing. The latter
may be tied fairly tight without endangering the trick.
[423 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2615. A puzzle: To remove the cord from a card without untying
the beads. A flexible card or strip having two slits and a hole, and
two buttons larger than the hole, are required.
The solution is to bend the flexible strip at the middle and pull it,
by means of the cord, down through the hole. Then withdraw one
of the beads through the loop that has been formed by the strip.
2616. “Two Sailors Out on the Yardarms.” To get them both on
the same yardarm without passing the knot. This was shown to me by
Lovell Thompson, who learned it in Nova Scotia.
Pull out a bight from the center knot and stick it down through
the near side of an end hole. Drop the knot at the end of the foot-
rope down through the bight and withdraw the bight over the knot
to bring it back to where it started from. Treat the other end simi-
larly and the knot at the center will disappear. One sailor then
crosses to the opposite yardarm. The knot is replaced by reversing
the process described.
2617. The oriental ladder trick: To remove the string from the
ladder without disengaging the string from the buttons.
Take a turn about the upper right post of the ladder and then
reeve the needle reversely the full length of the cord so that two
parallel cords pass through the whole structure. Reverse the needle
and this time reeve only through the buttons , passing outside each
rung of the ladder. Take the turn off the ladder post, pull out the
doubled cord and nothing will remain on the cord except the buttons.
2618. To disentangle scissors: The Ring Hitch is pulled out and
led through the upper thumbhole of the scissors, and then passed
entirely around the scissors, which frees them.
2619. To remove the button: Two sticks, with three holes in each,
and a button with large holes are required. These are arranged as
pictured.
Extend the loop at the center hole of one of the sticks, reeve it
through the upper hole, then pass both the opposite stick and the
button through the loop. The loop can now be withdrawn from its
own stick and the button removed. After this the stick may be re-
placed by reversing the process.
2620. “The Pirate and the Jolly Boat.”
A pirate, having more prisoners than he has room for, tows one
boatload astern.
All knives are taken away, and the boat made fast with the bight
of a doubled line. The after end of the line is ring hitched to a
stern ringbolt. Clove Hitches are put around each thwart, and the
line is rove through the bow ringbolt and brought to deck. They
are told to escape if they can.
How do they escape?
The reader should make a rough cardboard replica of the top
elevation of the boat to work with.
The solution: The boat is hauled close to ship, and the loose rope,
so gained, is led aft through all the Clove Hitches until the Ring
Hitch in the after ringbolt can be loosened. The bight of this knot
is extended to its limit, after which it is led forward, paralleling
the rope through its successive hitches, and after leading it out
through the forward ring it is dropped into the water and the boat
itself is hauled through it.
[ 4 2 4 ]
CHAPTER 34: LONG AND SHORT SPLICES
(MULTI-STRAND BENDS)
SpHcing— is fastening two Ends of a Rope together , with uncommon
Slight— to execute which requires no ordinary Skill; as 1 can venture
to say not one Seaman in twenty can perform it .
A Naval Repository, 1762
2621. This pictures the proper way to crotch or marry two three-
strand ropes preparatory to short splicing.
2622. The proper way to crotch or marry two four-strand ropes
is shown here.
2623. Small strands may be hove with round-jawed pliers.
2624. Larger strands are hove taut with a marlingspike and a
Marlingspike Hitch.
2625. Medium-size strands may be tightened with the point of
the marlingspike by imparting a strong twist.
There are three angles of approach to splices— the sailmaker’s, the
rigger’s and the sailor’s.
Sailmaker’s splices are put into the boltrope of sails, which is
three-strand. They are supported by being strongly sewed to the
sailcloth. The strands of a sailmaker’s splice are always “backed”~that
is, each end is tucked around and around a single opposing strand,
forming a long helix, instead of being tucked over one strand and
under the next as in other splices. The ends are cut off on the un-
derside of the splice, a few yarns at each tuck, and are covered
up at the next tuck.
The sailmaker works while sitting on a bench in the sail loft. He
opens his strands with a wooden fid. When his splice is complete he
pounds it with his fid and often spits on the handle and burnishes the
splice to make it lie fair for the stitching.
The final splice on a sail is always called the “Confine Splice,”
whatever its variety, since it is the splice that closes the end of the
boltrope around the sail.
Rigger’s splices belong principally in standing rigging and its
appurtenances. Many of them are tied in shroud-laid rope, which is
four-strand and has a core. But block straps, pendants, slings, lifts,
etc., are three-strand.
[ 4 2 5 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
The rigger splices while standing at a workbench in the rigging
loft. He opens a rope with an iron marlingspike. His strands are
greased with tallow before they are tucked. The ends are cut shorter
than sailmaker’s and sailor’s splices, and they are teased out and
served over.
Sailor’s splices are found principally in running rigging, cargo and
deck gear, and in ground tackle. They are unsupported by either
stitches or service. If the rope allows, he prefers to splice with his
fingers alone. When completed, his splice may be rolled underfoot
or else pounded with a fid or marlingspike. Unlike sailmaker’s and
rigger’s splices, the ends are left long and in full view.
2626. For opening strands a sailor employs his fingers wherever
practicable, but if the rope is large or new, a marlingspike or
pricker is required. The rope is twisted strongly to the right and
the point is entered carefully so that none of the fibers are disturbed.
2627. When opening a strand with his fingers, the sailor grasps
the rope as pictured, and, with the right thumb against the strand
that is to be lifted, he imparts a strong twist.
2628. To stick or tuck the strands , the first step in making a Short
or Long Splice. After opening the rope, hold it nrmly and turn back
an end from the left rope (counterclockwise). Shove it through the
opening with the left thumb, the hands and strand assuming the
positions pictured.
2629. The second tuck is taken differently. A left twist is given to
the strand, sufficient to make it form the small left turn that is illus-
trated, with a gesture that is similar to adding a turn to a left-hand
coil. The end is directed to the right, instead of to the left as in
# 2628 . The left thumb pushes the strand through as before. The
reason for the different technique is that the latter way skillfully
removes just sufficient twist from the working strand to make it lie
fair over the next strand. Both #2628 and #2629 are employed by
the sailor in the Over-and-Under Splice, which is the first to be
described. But #2628 is employed only for the initial sticking or
tuck, the reason being that it is less liable to disturb the lay or the
two crotched ropes.
2630. The rigger, having opened his rope with a marlingspike
(# 2626 ), holds it open with the left thumb and forefinger just long
enough to thrust a strand directly through as shown. Much of a
rigger’s work is with tarred hemp, which is quite the handiest ma-
terial there is to splice with. I would recommend the beginner
buying a few yards of small three-strand “ratline stuff” and four-
strand “lanyard stuff” to practice with.
2631. This shows how the rigger, and sometimes the sailor too,
will make a strand lie fair by twisting after it has been thrust.
2632. Sailmaker’s splices, being backhanded, require a different
technique for arranging the lay, so that the yarns in the overlaid
section of strand will coincide with the lay of the strand underneath.
Having reached the position shown in this sketch, the yarns are
closely held and flattened with the thumb at the same time directing
the lay with the forefinger.
2633. I have found that splicing moderately stiff material of
medium size is much speeded by entering with ^ pair of duck-billed
pliers and pulling the end through without the use of a fid.
[ 426 ]
LONG AND SHORT SPLICES ( MULTI- STRAND BENDS)
2634. This diagram shows the first strand of a Sailor’s Short
Splice in process of being tucked. The end is led over the first op-
posing strand and under the next. Then the rope is turned toward
you into position for the next strand, which is shown above the first
one. After the three ends are each tucked once the splice is turned
end for end and the other set is tucked the same. When splicing,
be seated if possible, with the splice laid across the lap.
2635. The “Over and Under,” or “Sailor’s Short Splice,” also
called “Short Splice” and “Regular Short Splice.” All early nau-
tical authorities, beginning with Captain John Smith, called this the
Round Splice. Falconer, in 1769, was the first to call it the Shori
Splice. The earliest Short Splice was tucked twice full size.
The rope is crotched, stopped, and held across the splicer’s lap.
The first tuck is taken as shown in #2634, after which the rope is
turned one third of a revolution toward the splicer and the next
sister strand is tucked in exactly the same manner. After the rope is
turned end for end, the other three strands are tucked the same as
the first end. The way of taking the first tuck has been described as
#2628.
Having removed the stop and drawn all the strands snug, proceed
to tuck all six ends a second time, as described in #2629. The ends
are trimmed at a length equal to the diameter of the rope. The sec-
ond diagram shows the appearance of the completed splice.
2636. The diagram alongside shows the Short Splice opened and
flattened with every strand in evidence. The drawing was made in
answer to the suggestion of several knot enthusiasts, who felt that it
was inadequate to show one face of the splice only; that all strands
should be shown to make the construction clear. The diagram is in-
teresting mainly because, although it shows everything regularly and
as simply as may be, it fails to make the splice clearer.
2637. Illustrative of the sailor’s common way of cutting a strand .
The knife is drawn toward the splicer to the right, and the strand is
cut diagonally. But the best way to cut strands is probably with a
pair of shears; the quickest way is with a hatchet.
2638. Captain Charles W. Smith’s General Utility Splice was
tucked full twice, both ways. Then the yarns of each strand were
divided and the lower half of all six was stuck once more. As it is
ordinarily expressed, each strand was “tucked two and a half times.”
The splice was then either rolled on deck underfoot, or else was
pounded with a marlingspike, after which it was given two palm-
and-needle whippings at each end. The whippings were put over the
well-rounded section, where the strands cross each other. The ends
were trimmed to a length equal to the diameter of the rope.
2639. A Cargo Slings Splice is also put into large hawsers. One
full turn must be taken out of the twist before crotching for a slings.
The ends are tucked twice full, and then one half a strand from each
of two adjacent ends is- securely whipped or seized together. This
is called Cross Whipping. This scheme is followed until all ends have
been given a strong whipping. The ends are trimmed to a length of
four to six inches according to the size of the rope. Sometimes they
are whipped twice.
2640. The ordinary Farm Splice ashore is tucked three times full.
Ends should always be cut long (preferably one and one half times
the diameter of the rope), and then be allowed to wear off in use.
[ 427 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2641 2642
2fc4 3
2641. It is often stated that a Short Splice is stronger than a Long
Splice. This is probably taken from the testimony of the testing
machine. But in practical use the rather abrupt shoulders of the
Short Splice continually fetch against various obstructions and
eventually the rope is weakened at the entrance to the splice. If a
Short Splice is carefully tapered it will give better service, and if a
number of yarns are wormed, its strength is increased. There is a
great variety in the ways that splices are tapered. It has often been
stated: “Every ship has its own long splice and every sailor has his
own short one.” A splice tucked “once full, once two thirds and once
one third” has a nice taper. This is mentioned in Steel’s Elements and
Practice of Rigging and Seamanship (1794).
2642. The more usual way is to tuck each strand “once full, once
one half, and once one quarter.” Some splicers will tuck the strands
twice full before starting to taper, or one end once and the other end
twice. The material itself should decide the splice. A hard-laid rope
requires fewer tucks than a soft-laid rope, and a soft, well-stretched
and well-worn old rope should have additional tucks.
2643. A “Long Short Splice”: I have made a very satisfactory
Short Splice having a diameter no greater than a Long Splice, when
the material was of insufficient length for the latter. The splice
should be about three times the length of the ordinary Short Splice
and careful workmanship is necessary. Open and seize each end at
a length equal to about six times its circumference, and whip all
strands.
Count the yarns in one strand, and taper each strand evenly for
one third of its length, beginning at the seizing , so that in that length
exactly one half of the yarns are cut out.
The tapering is done in this manner. Without disturbing the out-
side lay of the strand, lift out one of the interior yarns and cut it off
at an inch and a half from the seizing. Carefully unwind the yarn to
the end of the strand and cut it off close to the whipping. With the
left thumb, slip the short remaining end back into the interior of
the strand. This is called sinking or burying a yarn. At short regular
intervals, cut out other inside yarns one at a time, sinking the upper
end and cutting off the lower end. When the inside yarns are ex-
hausted, remove outside yarns but do not remove adjacent yarns
consecutively . Scatter and bury the ends. When all three strands
have been tapered regularly to half size at one-third length, lay them
up again as described in $144. Lay them up as tightly as you can y
and whip them strongly. Marry the two ends and short splice as al-
ready described, cutting out yarns at the same rate as in tapering.
When three yarns are left in each strand, back the yarns twice
through the proper opposing strand and cut them off short. After
rolling, the splice should be about the size of the rest of the rope.
2644 . A Shroud Splice. Short splice the hearts of two shroud-laid
ropes (#110). One tuck each way is sufficient, after which the ends
are scraped down and marled with twine. Next, short splice the
shrouds, tucking them once and a half, scrape all strands and serve
over. Snake the ends of the service (#3453). This was the early
Shroud Splice.
2645. As the heart of a four-strand rope is not intended to add to
the strength of the rope, but is merely to give it firmness, a neater
splice, that is about as strong, is made by cutting off the ends of the
hearts and butting them, after which the outside strands are spliced
as in $2644.
LONG AND SHORT SPLICES ( MULTI- STRAND BENDS)
2646. A Four-Strand Over-and-Under Splice. In the illustra-
tion, for the sake of compactness, the splice is shown tucked
only once at the left and twice at the right. The technique is the
same as already described. But as four-strand rope is not so firm as
three-strand rope, each strand should be tucked at least twice full,
then once one half, and once one quarter. The last tuck in any Four-
Strand Splice should always be under two strands whether the
splice is long, short, backhanded, or over-and-under.
2647. An alternative way of sticking a Short Splice. This makes
a splice that is scarcely distinguishable from the ordinary Short
Splice. It is tucked as in the diagram alongside, which illustrates two
opposing strands. The others are tucked the same way, and after all
are tucked once they are spliced regularly over one and under one
as in #2635 or #2638.
The ordinary Over-and-Under Short Splice, tucked once only,
each way, is often used in the straps of single blocks. Thicker blocks
will require more tucks, so that the length of the splice equals the
thickness of the block. The sharp angle of the shell, at the bosom,
adds to the security of the splice and often the ends are trimmed
short. But on smart ships the straps are wormed and the splices
teased, parceled and served or grafted over.
2648. The Rigger’s Short Splice. Opposite strands are half
knotted together and then are tucked over and under once in each
direction, as shown by the arrow in the diagram. The splice belongs
on the strap of a single block. For a double block it would be tucked
twice each way and the ends cut off short.
2649. This is the Sailor’s Backhanded Short Splice, which is
often confused with the Sailmaker’s Short Splice. It is, however,
made with a different technique and has several structural differ-
ences.
After crotching the ropes, the ends are half knotted as in the
Rigger’s Short Splice (#2648), and then each of the six strands is
backed once in turn. They are not backed, however, as the sailmaker
backs them (#2632). The sailor backs them in his own way. Each
strand is tucked forward over one and under two , instead of over
one and wider one , which is the usual sailor’s splice. In three-strand
rope this is structurally the same as a sailmaker’s backhanded tuck,
and in four-strand rope the splice is not attempted. All six strands
are tucked in turn four times, the three strands of each end being
kept “a-tier,” not “run down” one at a time as the sailmaker does it.
The tucks are taken twice full, once three quarters, once one half and
once one quarter. The splice is put into boltrope and is appreciably
longer than an ordinary Short Splice.
2650. The sailor enters his fid for the Backhanded Splice either at
right angles to the rope or else pointed a little to the left. The strand
end, which should be whipped, is thrust through end first as shown
by the arrow.
2651. The first mention of Sailmaker’s Splices is by Kipping
(1847), who says “Left-handed splices are best for roping straight.”
He does not describe the “Left-Handed” Splice, and earlier works
on sailmaking give only the Over-and-Under Splice. This illustra-
tion is given here to show the structural difference between the
Sailmaker’s Splice and the Rigger’s Splice (#2648). The former
is backed once either way, which gives four bights as shown here,
while the latter is half knotted, which gives two bights only. Each
time all the ends are tucked a total of four bights is added.
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2652. The value of the Left-Handed or Sailmaker’s Shori
Splice is that it preserves the lay of the rope so that the sail may be
sewed more evenly to the boltrope. Although when unsupported the
Backhanded Splice is less secure than the Over-and-Under Splice,
the sailmaker’s stitches render it secure. Splices are always cross
stitched to the canvas. Kipping, in 1847, speaking of square sails, says:
“The Short Splice is used upon the foot of sails, under the service,
or where the splice is not required to be made very long.”
Crotch two three-strand ropes together, open the rope with a fid
and stick a strand left-handed as pictured in $2632.
All strands having been stuck once, as in #2651, it will be found
that they will “set” more snugly if permitted to stagger as illustrated
at the top of this page, instead of being held a-tier. After all strands
have been stuck once the sailmaker takes the forward strand at the
right end and leads it to the right around and around the same
strand, cutting out a few yarns on the underside after each tuck so
that the tuck completely hides all ends. This is called “running
down” a strand. When the yarns are reduced to three or four, the
next strand is taken and “run down” in the same way and then the
third. The final tucks of the three strands are carefully arranged so
thi^ are not in the same cross section of the rope.
2653. By tapering C'e strands, as described for Splice #2643, a
particularly smooth Sailmaker’s Splice may be made, backing the
strands as described in the last splice and cutting out the yarns as
described in #2643. The two final tucks of each end should be
through the strand that is being followed. The ends are trimmed off
short. The splice must be much longer than the Over-and-Under
Splice (#2543) and its security depends almost entirely on the tight-
ness with which the ends are laid up after tapering. Unless the work-
manship is really excellent the splice is not dependable.
2654. “The divil himself, with all hell to help him, couldn’t make
a Four-Strand, Backhanded Short Splice that was worth a damn.”
This is an old sea adage which I first heard from Captain Daniel F.
Mullins. It is as true as it is terse.
2655. The course of a strand in an ordinary Sailor’s Splice is over
one and under one. In the Three-Strand Backhanded Splice the
course is over one and under two (see $2649).
But in the Four-Strand Backhanded Splice (#2654) that has just
been commented upon, the course would be over one and under
three.
This leaves a splice that is over one and under two in four-strand
rope and that so far has not been considered. A splice made in this
manner is more compact than #2654 and perhaps more secure. But
even #2654 will be secure if served over. This method of tucking has
been used with six strands in wire splicing.
2656. The Sailmaker’s Splice, per se, also called the Taper
Splice, the Sailmaker’s Taper Splice and the Sweet Potato Splice.
[ 430 ]
LONG AND SHORT SPLICES (MULTI- STRAND BENDS)
This was formerly much used on square sails where the diameter
of the boltrope was changed for each side of the sail.
In general there is no clear line of division between the splices of
the different crafts. Many sailors have served an apprenticeship in
rigging or sailmaking and many sailmakers and riggers have made
at least one voyage to sea. Generally it is in the details and refine-
ments that the practices overlap, for the requirements of the three
trades are different and basically the splices must differ. There
should seldom be any doubt in identifying the source of a splice.
To make the Taper Splice: Open the smaller rope a short distance
and open the larger rope several times that distance, possibly eighteen
inches, but be governed by the size and the degree of disproportion
between the two ropes. Marry and stop at the crotch.
Cut away one fourth of the yams on the underside of one of the
larger strands before backing it into the smaller rope. Follow down
the same strand of the smaller rope with backhanded tucks, cutting
out a few yams of the larger strand at each tuck until the strand is
reduced to a very few yarns. Repeat with the second strand. When
the third strand is tucked the cutting-out may have to be varied
somewhat to make the strand fill the space evenly. The ends are care-
fully arranged a-tandem, not a-tier. The small rope strands are now
spliced over one and under one into the larger rope, three or four
times, tapering as you go and backing the final tuck.
2657. To short splice two left-laid ropes together: Proceed exactly
as with right-laid rope but the tucks are taken in the contrary direc-
tion.
2658. When a left- and a right-laid rope are short spliced together
the strands of both ends already point away from the splicer in the
direction they are to be tucked. Structurally the whole length of this
splice is identical with Six-Strand Round Sinnet.
By short splicing together twenty- or thirty-foot shots of alter-
nating left-laid and right-laid rope, of the same size, an anchor warp
may be made that will have no tendency whatever to kink, that will
lie fair at all times and that may be coiled in either direction. Such
a rope will ride easier than any other kind of cable, and if the splices
are well tapered there is little loss of strength and little trouble will
be had at the winch. The same splice, used on a seine or net, will do
away with the tendency to roll up at the edge.
Long Splices are impractical in left- and right-laid rope, but if one
should be put in, for any reason, it should be served over.
2659. In the same way as #2658 a cable may be spliced to a hawser
as if both were three-strand ropes. Seize both rope and cable before
opening and stop the six working ends. Tuck twice full in each
direction, then divide the ends and cross whip as in a Slings Splice.
2660. A strand may be spliced to a heart in a similar way. This is
required when tying a Five-Strand Star Knot in a shroud-laid rope.
One tuck is sufficient.
[ 431 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2661. To splice two strands together: Stop them at the length of
the splice and cut out the heart yarns, leaving all outside yams un-
disturbed. Divide the remaining yarns of each end into equal thirds
and crotch them. Then, using a loop of stiff wire, short splice as
#2635, but reversely since the lay is left. Care must be taken to tuck
under an equal number of yarns at each operation. The ends of the
splice should be whipped with sail twine. If the strands are to be
worked up into sinnet this will not be necessary.
2662. A Short Splice of four-strand material to three-strand ma-
terial. At times considerable four-strand rope has been used in the
running rigging of yachts. It is more pliant than three-strand rope and
is smoother and softer to handle, but many chandleries do not carry
it and replacements while cruising are sometimes difficult. Conse-
quently the occasion will arise for a Three-Strand to Four-Strand
Splice. This splice is often required by lobstermen and other long-
shore fishermen who collect and use secondhand gear.
The common way to make the Short Splice is to crotch two
strands of the four-strand rope end for use as a unit and to divide a
single strand of the three-strand rope. Tuck all ends once as in the
illustration. After the first tuck of the two-strand unit, half of each
of the two strands are laid together to make a single strand and the
three strands are then tucked full once more, and then once one half
and once one quarter.
Turn the structure around, divide the three full strands in half and
lay out half from two of them. Tuck the remaining jour half strands
as a four-strand rope, twice full and once one half.
2663. A Three- by Four-Strand Short Splice, from Alston’s Sea -
manship . Seize both ends. Divide one strand of the four-strand rope
into thirds and lay up one of these thirds with each of the remaining
three full strands. Crotch the ends as in three-strand rope, stick
twice full, once one half and once one quarter. Turn the splice
around and divide one strand of the three-strand rope into two parts
and tuck as described in the previous splice.
2664. In this splice the four-strand end is treated as in the previ-
ous splice and the Three-Strand Splice has one fourth of the yarns
from each strand laid out and then laid up into a fourth strand. The
ends are then married and are short spliced in the usual way, four
strands into the four-strand rope and three strands into the three-
strand rope.
2665. Lay up the three-strand rope into a four-strand rope by
robbing one fourth of the yarns from each strand to make a fourth
that is long enough for a regular Four-Strand Short Splice. But if
the three-strand rope is the smaller one an extra strand may be side
spliced into it for a length as long as the whole splice.
2666. Lay up the four-strand rope into three strands by dividing
the extra strand among the three that remain, for a distance long
enough to allow of a regular Three-Strand Backhanded Splice.
[ 432 ]
I
LONG AND SHORT SPLICES (MULTI- STRAND BENDS)
2667. If u single strand of the four-strand rope equals in size a
strand from the other rope, one of the strands of the four-strand
rope may be sunk or buried before it would enter the splice, and a
Three-Strand Short Splice made. The method of sinking a strand
is shown as #2707.
2668. A Reversed Short Splice. Crotch the ropes as usual, and
tuck one set of strands back into their own rope end, as pictured.
Do likewise with the other end. Make all fair and tuck all strands full
a second time and then half strands for the third tuck. The splice is
perhaps more flexible than the usual Short Splice. It was shown to
me as a “trick” and so far as I know it has no practical purpose.
2669. The “Long Rolling Splice” or Log Line Splice was used in
lead and log lines before machine-braided “sinnet rope” made its
appearance. It is actually a Long Cut Splice with the two component
Side Splices more widely separated than is usual. After one of the
Side Splices has been made, the two parallel parts are twisted and
laid up tightly together before the strands of the second splice are
stuck. The legs must be of equal length. Four palm-and-needle
whippings are added. The avowed purpose of this splice is to prevent
unbending while in the water. For this purpose it was deemed more
secure than the Short Splice. The method of making the Side Splice
required is shown as #2826.
2670. A Hawser Short Splice. Crotch and stick one end only.
Next halve all six strands and tuck both ends once, then halve them
again and tuck all six once more, and if the hawser is to be towed
through the water, back all ends once . Give the splice six strong
seizings, or else serve over for the full length.
2671. The Cable Short Splice. Seize very strongly before open-
ing the ends. Stick each rope, of the three which form the cable,
twice in each direction, then cut out one strand from each of the six
ropes and stick the ropes again. Cut out another strand from each of
the six ropes and tuck the remaining six strands once more. Trim the
ends and serve over with spun yarn a distance somewhat more than
the full length of the splice. The illustration shows only the right
end of the splice.
2672. A Cable Short Splice. In this splice, given by Steel (1794),
Gower (1808) and Blount (1811), each end of the ropes is stuck full
twice. Then one strand from each rope is wormed along the cable
and the rest are teased, scraped, tapered, marled and given a round
and two end seizings. Gower says this is “the snuggest cable splice.”
2673. The Tapered Cable Short Splice is described by Steel in
1794. The splice is tucked full twice each way and then the ends are
opened, teased, scraped and served over with spun yarn; the ends of
the service are “snaked.”
2673
l 431 .1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2611
2674. The (Cable) Drawing Splice “is esteemed the best for
cables as it may be readily undone.” The cable is seized and opened
about ten feet. The three ropes of each end are tapered the full
length. A Short Splice is put in and tucked twice full, each way.
At each end of the splice a “quarter seizing” is added. The tapered
tails are next tightly wormed along the cable, and middle and end
seizings put on.
2675. A Sinnet Rope Splice. This method was also used for sin-
nets, plain-laid hawsers, for cables, and for splicing any one of the
three to any one of the others. The rope should be opened for a dis-
tance equal to twelve or fifteen times its diameter. The two ends
should be held rigidly with vises, clamps or lashings at two points
about ten times the diameter of the rope apart. The opened ends
should be turned and held back with a Ring Knot (#1859) in the
manner pictured. Take two of the bottom yarns and bend them to-
gether either with Rope Yarn Knot #1480 or with a Square Knot.
The tension of the yams must be kept uniform throughout but not
too taut. Tie opposite bottom yams together first. Scatter the knots
evenly throughout the length of the splice. If the yarns prove
troublesome, wax them. Cut the ends fairly short. When through
knotting, stop the splice securely in several places, or else bind tightly
with adhesive tape. Serve over and snake the ends of the service.
If the yarns of the two ropes are of unequal size, knot two of one
side to three of the other, employing a Reef Knot.
2676. The Grecian Shroud Splice ( 1 ) . Short splice the hearts of
two shroud-laid ropes two full tucks each way, and cut off the ends
short (see #2644). Serve the heart over hard with marline. Divide
each of the four surface strands into three parts, making twelve in
all. Twist up each part in turn tightly, wax and rub well with a rag.
Marry the twenty-four parts. Put a stop around them at the center,
and proceed exactly as in the ordinary Short Splice, tucking over
one and under one. Each end is tucked twice full. Scrape ends, tease,
taper, parcel and serve.
2677. The Grecian Shroud Splice (2). This is the same as the
above but the center of the splice is cross-pointed (#3023) and the
ends are whipped and snaked.
2678. Grafting is an old splice employed on block straps and stand-
ing rigging. The two ends are crotched and seized and, if the ropes
are shroud-laid, the hearts are cut out. The underside of each strand is
also cut out. The ropes are then wormed with yams from the under-
sides of the already reduced strands. More yarns from the under-
sides of the strands are teased out and marled down with waxed sail
twine.
The remaining surface yams from both ropes are crotched so that
they lead alternately left and right.
The center of the splice having been whipped with Italian marline,
fishline, lobster cord or other material, employ one end of the whip-
ping as a warp and revolve the rope away from you, laying the
yams of the right end alternately to the left and right of the warp
(which leads toward you). The warp passes over only the yams that
are laid down to the right. The total number of yams must be odd,
so that at each new circuit the lead will alternate. If the number is
even, cut out a single yarn.
Proceed until sufficient grafting has been made to cover the end
you are working. Finish off the end with a whipping the same width
as the middle one and snake it. Make the other end of the splice to
LONG AND SHORT SPLICES ( MULTI- STRAND BENDS)
correspond, and then snake the middle whipping in the same way as
the ends.
2679 . Splicing a chain cable to a hemp one . This splice was de-
scribed by Nicholas Tinmouth in 1845. No stronger method of
bending chain to hemp has since been discovered. Three chain tails
of sixty-five links each, made tapering, were shackled to the large
end link of a large chain cable. A further tapered ten-foot hemp tail
was spliced to the end link of each chain tail (#2858). One or two
strands from a large hemp hawser were laid along each of the chain
tails, the yarns completely covering it, and these were served over
first with spun yarn and after that, were parceled and served a sec-
ond time with marline.
The chain tails were next laid up tightly into three-strand rope
and the hemp cable and chain cable were short spliced to each other
in the usual way— three full tucks. Five seizings were put over the
splice, the center seizing two inches wide, and the end and quarter
.eizings one and a half inches wide. The tails of the chain cable were
next wormed along the hemp cable and secured with two flat seiz-
ings, which were snaked.
The first chain cable for ship use is said to have been made in Eng-
land about 1812. Previous to that hemp cables were used exclusively.
For ships of the line they were sometimes as large as thirty inches in
circumference.
The first flexible wire hawser appeared on shipboard about 1875.
Specimens of wire rope have been found in the ruins of Pompeii.
Wire rope was rediscovered about 1831 by a man named Clausthal,
and at first was used only in mining operations. Wire standing rig-
ging came into use with the advent of the clipper ships in the 1850s.
2680 . A Two-Strand Short Splice (marline). Tuck three times
full and roll underfoot. If very soft-laid, tuck each strand four times.
Structurally a section of this splice is the same as a Four-Strand
Round Sinnet.
Marline is left-handed so it is spliced the opposite of right-laid
rope.
2681 . A Two-Strand Backhanded Splice. Open and tie a Triple
Overhand Knot in each pair of strands. Tighten strongly by pulling
alternately at the two pairs of ends. The direction of the knots must
be contrary to the lay of the marline . Roll underfoot when tight.
2682 . An Invisible Splice for knitting yam was shown to me by
S. R. Ashley. Make the splice when the end is about to disappear
into the knitted or crocheted object. Divide and crotch the two ends
of yam and twist the legs around outside the yam in the same direc-
tion as the lay at both ends. Do not twist the body of the yam itself.
Hold with the fingers while knitting it into the material and
straighten with a needle if necessary. The splice will not be evident
in the finished garment and does not tend to loosen. Do not cut off
the ends, if in evidence, but tease them out.
2683 . A Single-Tuck Splice for twine, cord, yarn, marline, etc.
Split one end into two parts and leave the other end unopened. Lay
the tip of the large single end into the crotch of the split end and,
beginning at that end, plat a very tight three-strand braid for
a considerable distance (twice as long as for an ordinary splice).
Unless the platting is very firm the splice will not hold. When the
two ends are about exhausted stick one of them through the center
of the unopened yam. Wax and rub well with the fingers or else roll
underfoot.
2680
2681
r 435 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2684. This splice is based on the shoemaker’s way of securing a
bristle to his thread, but it works very nicely tied in small loose-
twisted twine or thread. Open one end into a long fork. If there is
any difference in size between them, open the larger end of the two.
Wax all three ends and lay out one end of the pair. Overlap the tip
of the single end into the crotch of the forked end. Rub the right
hand on the knee, away from you if the lay is right, twisting and lay-
ing up the two opposite ends. Next, rub the hand reversely on the
knee (toward you), twisting both remaining parts but keeping them
separated as pictured. When the left end is let go the second leg will
overlay the rest. Finally tuck the last-laid tip through the standing
part of the single end as pictured. Wax the whole splice and rub well
with the fingers.
Sometimes, in stringing beads, a thread is too tight for the hole,
making reeving difficult. A piece of smaller thread may be spliced to
the end in the manner just described, but before splicing scrape the
larger end to a tapered point. Wax the finished splice, reeve the small
end and haul the large end through after it.
The same method makes an excellent Marline Splice but is tied
with a different technique. Open one end into a long fork and place
the other tip overlapping the crotch as before. Then, twisting with
the fingers of both hands, lay up the single tip with the lower leg of
the fork. Then, with a reverse twist and two hands, lay up the part
that was first made, with the remaining leg. Finally tuck the tip of
this leg through the lay of the single marline, and roll underfoot.
2685. A Ship Modelmaker’s Splice. In splicing very small ma-
terial, the splice, except for one minor difference, is the same as the
ordinary Short Splice (#2635). The ends are opened for a consid-
erable length and a sail needle, the smallest that will serve, is threaded
to each strand. A sailmaker’s palm is worn and the splice is made by
thrusting the needle instead of tucking with the fingers. No effort
should jbe made to tuck under the opposing strand; the splice will be
firmer if the needle is thrust directly through a strand from one
cuntline to the next. Ordinarily two full tucks are taken and only in
ship models of exceptional size is any effort made to taper the
strands. Another good way to splice in very small stuff is to draw the
ends through with a hairpin.
2686. An Angler’s Splice for small braided fishline. With the
point of a pin, needle or fishhook ravel the ends for an inch, more or
less, depending on the size of the line. Divide each end into three
equal parts, wax well and scrape each part to a taper point. Marry
the ends, allowing tips to overlap the solid part of the line very
slightly, as in the first drawing. Seize with a Constrictor Knot
(# 1 249) at the center of the splice, and hold in a vise at the middle.
Twist one half strongly one way and with a fine waxed silk thread
serve it tightly the other way to a point beyond the frayed ends.
Secure the end under several turns as in a whipping and repeat with
the other end of the splice. Roll between two boards and cover with
thin spar varnish.
[ 436 ]
LONG AND SHORT SPLICES (MULTI- STRAND BENDS)
2687. A “Snakehead” or “Telescope” Splice for banding or tub-
ing. There is a special tool called a banding splicer made for this par-
ticular splice which is a variety of wire loop, but a sail needle will
serve as well or better. All round commercially braided cord is tubu-
lar and this splice is used with most sorts except sash cord. Take a
sail needle and work it carefully along the interior of the banding.
Start about six inches from the end and, pointing the eye end of
the needle toward the end, bring it to the surface four inches from
the end. To do this, work the material back over the eye end of the
needle and, when the proper spot is reached, work or force the eye
end out through the side to the surface at a spot about four inches
distant from the end. Next reeve the tip of the other piece of band-
ing through the end of the needle, scraping it to a point if necessary,
and draw the second piece of banding lengthwise through the first
and out at the spot where the needle was first entered. Smooth the
banding carefully where it is doubled and leave six inches of the
second end protruding. Stick the eye of the needle into the second
end two inches behind the spot where the second end enters the first
end, and bring it out beside the spot where the first end protrudes.
Reeve the first end through the eye and withdraw the needle
through the banding. Draw the two doubled parts together and
smooth out the splice, stretch it and cut the ends off flush. If the
banding is hard and has a core or heart, the hearts or cores must be
pulled out at the end and cut off for a length of six inches before
starting the splice.
2688. The Rope Yarn Knot or Marline Bend (i) is crotched as
a splice but is tied as a knot. Split the ends of two rope yarns, crotch
them and leave two of the halves inert while the other two opposite
halves are knotted as pictured. This knot bulks three times the size
of the rope yam where a Reef Knot bulks four times the size. It
may be tied in any one- or two-strand material.
2689. Rope Yarn Knot or Marline Bend ( 2 ). This bulks the same
size as the previous knot and is perhaps more secure. Neither of the
knots is particularly strong, but they are usually employed in serving
and for such purposes have been found adequate.
2690. Occasionally three-thread marline is found and it may be
bent together in this manner, two yams from each end being
knotted. But, if there is time, a splice is preferable in every way, as
it will bulk only twice the size of the material and is stronger.
2691. A Tucked Marline Bend. This is a recent way of joining
marline for serving and it bulks less than a Rope Yarn Knot. The
ends are overlapped for several inches and each end is stuck twice
through the standing part of the other end. The strands are generally
opened with a pricker and the splice must be well rubbed down with
the fingers or rolled under the foot before being put to use. The
ends of the marline should be carefully buried under the turns of
the service. The splice will lie flat and be almost indistinguishable.
Nowadays this knot is more popular than the Rope Yarn Knots,
being neater and of smaller diameter.
[ 437 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
26 <* 2
2692. Long Splices arc mentioned by Falconer in 1769. They are
used wherever it is necessary for a splice to pass through a block,
since they are smaller in diameter than Short Splices. But they are
practical only if the two ropes to be joined are of the same size.
Some of the ropemaking concerns state that a Long Splice weak-
ens a rope as much as fifty per cent. But unless a splice is very badly
made indeed this can hardly be true, since there are at every length
in a Long Splice two untouched strands. This leaves sixty-six and
two thirds per cent of the rope at all times intact. So even if the third
strand has no strength at all, which can hardly be imagined, fifty per
cent is still too low an estimate.
To tie a long splice: Marry the rope as in a Short Splice, but make
the legs much longer (about fifteen inches for each inch of circum-
ference in the rope). The strands may be arranged as depicted in the
upper diagram, and stopped at the point in the center where a ver-
tical line is drawn. Proceed with the two opposing strands at the
right end, laying one out to the right and laying the other one into
its score, u one turn out and one turn in,” at one time. When the
length of one strand is reduced to nine inches, arrange the two ends
as the left ends in the second diagram and, pulling them snugly to-
gether, leave them for the moment. Proceed to lay out and lay in the
two left strands in the same manner described for the right-hand
ones, but, having made about two circuits of the rope, stop and ex-
amine the center of your splice carefully. If the two continuous sec-
tions at the center are not even and smooth you must rearrange the
tension with the left end with which you are now working. Failing
to do this, your splice will be worthless. This is the danger point fora
beginner. When the left strands are correctly laid, half knot all ends
as pictured in the second diagram, removing enough of the lay or twist
so that the yams will lie fair. Having knotted the ends, work the
center pair first, tuck each end over and under twice full and then a
half. Treat the other ends in the same fashion.
2693. This differs from the last only in being tucked once full,
once one half and once one quarter. It is also good practice to tuck
once full, once two thirds and once one third.
2694. The present splice and the other Long Splices to follow are
all arranged as in the previous description until three sets of opposing
strands face each other along the rope. A more uniform splice than
those already shown is made by laying out one half of each strand
before knotting. The two opposing half strands are then knotted
together. Tuck the ends over and under twice, divide the remainder
and stick once more.
2695. The sailmaker, having laid out one half the strand as above,
knots the two ends and “backs” the remaining part once, then halves
it and backs it a second time.
[ 438 ]
LONG AND SHORT SPLICES ( MULTI- STRAND BENDS)
2696. The Sailor’s Backhanded Long Splice. Knot full, then back
(over one, under two) twice, then divide and tuck once more, over
one and under two.
2697. A Sailmaker’s Long Splice. Lay out half of each strand
before half knotting the ends and tuck the parts that were laid out
as shown by the center arrow. A few yams, the same number each
time, are then cut out on the underside at each tuck. Each end is run
down singly until only two or three yams are left. These are cut
off short.
2698. If there is plenty of time, and the material is good, a neat
Sailmaker’s Splice may be made by tapering each strand to half
size at the point of knotting. For the method of tapering see #2643
in this chapter. Lay the ends side by side and knot as shown by the
arrows. Then back the full distance of the taper, cutting out yarns
on the underside at a rate corresponding to the taper that was previ-
ously made. Arrange the lay of the strand after each tuck so that it
corresponds throughout the rope.
2699. A Long Splice for larger material. In hawsers, the strands
are not half knotted for the reason that a Half Knot in large ma-
terial is exceedingly difficult to draw up. Opposite strand ends are
placed alongside in the same way as heretofore and then each is
tucked full over the opposing end and under the next strand as indi-
cated by the arrows. It is then halved and tucked over and under
once more.
2700. This splice, which is also recommended for hawsers, is tucked
once full, and then is backed (tucked backhanded) once one half.
It is always better for towing to have the final tuck of any splice a
backhanded one.
2701. A Hawser Splice. The strands are first halved and tucked,
as shown by the arrows, over one and under two. They are then
tucked over one and under two a second time.
All the methods given are in good standing: some of the differ-
ences are slight but others are greater than they may seem at first
glance. The first essential in any of them is good workmanship. In
fact, good workmanship is of more importance than the method.
2702. The Sailmaker’s “Quick” or “Chain Lightning” Splice
(the latter being the common name). One end only is stuck full, just
once. This splice has been widely used on quick jobs for the mer-
chant service. The knot is on the forward side of the boltrope, next
to the canvas. The ends are seized and cut short. When cross stitched
to the canvas, the splice has been found secure enough for practical
commercial use.
[ 439 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2703 . To long splice two jour-strand ropes: Open each rope end
into one fork of two legs, each leg containing two undisturbed
strands. Crotch these two forks, cutting out the cores if there are
any so that they do not quite butt. In length the legs of each fork
should equal about one foot for each inch of the rope’s circumfer-
ence. Lay out one leg and lay in the opposing leg one quarter of its
length. Separate the two pairs of legs into their two component
single strands. Lay up and half knot one opposing pair where it lies
and proceed to lay out and lay in the remaining opposing pair for
two thirds of the remaining length. Half knot this pair.
Treat the other end of the splice in like manner. The four pairs
of strands should now be evenly spaced along the rope. The ends
may now be spliced as in #2696 or #2697.
2704 . A Transmission Rope Splice. Open the two ends of a four-
strand rope into a fork one third longer than in the last splice. Take
out the twist of the rope one full turn and crotch the two ends.
Proceed to arrange as in the second diagram of #2703.
When the eight strand ends are laid up in four equidistant pairs
the procedure changes. Unlay the two strands of the left pair two
full turns each, and, without disturbing the lay of the yarns, divide
the ends carefully into two even parts. Lay out one half and then
lay back the remaining one half from each end back to the center
(not too tightly) and half knot them together as in the diagram.
Use a wire loop and with it back the proper center half strand to
the left, preserving the lay carefully, until it butts the left half strand
that was laid out. The lay should be kept so even that it will not be
evident that it has been disturbed. Do likewise with the other pair of
half strands, after which the other three pairs of strands are to be
treated in the same manner.
There should now be eight joints laid up together, each consisting
of two half strands. The rope should be smooth and even through-
out, but if it is not that should now be corrected.
Take the left pair of half strands that have been laid up, and knot
them as #2698, then back each end three times full, or else back and
taper them by cutting out a few yarns on the underside at each tuck.
Pound well with a mallet and trim the ends. In making such splices
two marlingspikes with cupped ends are often used. The point of
the second spike grips the strand in the socket of the first marling-
spike and the end is driven through the rope with a mallet.
2705 . To long splice a three-strand rope to a four-strand rope.
Open and crotch the ropes as for a Three-Strand Long Splice but
with two strands of the four-strand rope opposite a single strand at
the center. Side splice an extra strand to the single strand. After the
yarns are stuck, taper and back them several turns, so that the lay is
kept fair. Lay out the opposing two strands to the right and lay in the
single and the side spliced strands to the points marked below the rope.
When properly spaced, splice them exactly as the other strands.
2706 . Lay out as described for the previous splice. Divide the
single strand and back the halves to the right around the opposing
full strands as if they were two full strands. Taper the two strands
from the four-strand rope, lay them up into a single strand and back
them around the single opposing strand to the left.
2707 . To sink a strand: Instead of laying up two strands into one,
as in #270 6, many splicers prefer merely sinking the extra end where
it lies before it enters the splice. Split the end into three equal parts,
stick the three parts as in the diagram and tuck as in Side Splice
#2826.
[ 44 ° 1
LONG AND SHORT SPLICES (MULTI- STRAND BENDS)
2708. Cables consist of three plain- or hawser-laid ropes twisted
together left-handed. Each component rope having three strands,
the cable itself has nine strands. In the following descriptions, when
a rope is spoken of it will refer to one third of the cable , and when
a strand is spoken of it will mean one third of a rope, or one ninth
of the cable.
An old nineteenth-century custom was to call the ropes strands, and
the strands “readies,” but the different rope works today have each their
own names for the different parts of a cable.
A cable is hard-laid and the work of splicing one is, at times, exacting.
But these mechanical difficulties are discussed under $2714. Until that is
reached we will merely describe the mechanics of the splices.
The splice pictured is perhaps the simplest of the Long Cable Splices;
it bulks four ropes at the center, or thirty-three per cent larger than the
cable itself, but it requires less material than the other Long Splices and
is one of the most practical for towing, warping, etc.
The ends are opened up each into its three ropes for a length equal to
about ten times the circumference of the cable. The two ends are married
and “laid out and laid in” to the right and left just as strands were treated
in the Rope Splices last described. These two drawings depict the splic-
ing of two rope ends— that is, one third only of a whole Cable Long
Splice. The two rope ends are married as shown at the top. After having
been crotched, if the ropes prove too loose, the upper strand end should
be carefully unlaid (withdrawn) one full turn and will then occupy the
lowest position of the three strands. It may be necessary to repeat this
operation until the right tension is achieved. This having been done, the
strands that point to the right are all three tucked under the adjacent
rope to the right and the left-hand strands under the adjacent rope to the
left. The bottom strand at the right is now left out and the remaining two
are tucked once, over and under the ropes to the right. Again the bottom
strand is left out and the remaining strand is tucked over and under the
next rope to the right. The splice is now turned end for end and the other
end is spliced as the first. If the cable is to be used for towing the last
strand should be backed one tuck.
2709. The Mariner’s Splice. Alston, Luce and other nautical
authorities say this “can only be done with old soft cables which are
not worth the trouble and for these a shroud knot is the best treat-
ment.” However, the drilling cable of today is smaller than the ship
cables that the naval gentlemen referred to, and a Long Cable Splice
is required nowadays. The Mariner’s Splice is always described as
“a long spliced cable with long spliced strands” (ropes).
A cable is opened and the ropes laid out and in as pictured in the
second diagram. The ropes in turn are opened and the strands laid
out and laid in so that there are nine pairs of strands to be spliced as
shown in the third diagram. Each strand is divided and one half is
tucked over one and under one as shown in the upper diagram, all
the tucks being kept on the surface of the rope. For these tasks a
marlingspike and considerable force are required.
2710. Bushell’s Mariner’s Splice. The illustrations show the
method of tucking two opposing strands. There are nine such joints
in the splice.
2711. The British Admiralty Mariner’s Splice from The Manual
of the Sea ( 1891 ). The method of tucking two opposite strands is
shown.
2712. Admiral Luce’s Mariner’s Splice. The Half Knot is diffi-
cult to draw up and it cannot fail to be objectionably prominent in
the finished splice.
2713. A Cable Splice given by Murphy and Jeffers ( 1849 ). Two
opposite rope ends in the cable are treated as described in $ 2675 .
[44 1 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2714 . All the descriptions that I have found of the Mariner’s
Splice are perfunctory and inexplicit.
A rope manufacturer once asked me to describe the Mariner’s
Splice for use in drilling cable. It seemed probable that the technique
of tying could be simplified, even if the splice itself could not. The
splice that follows was finally evolved. It has several new features
and is not too difficult for one man to tie. Without a helper, I put the
splice into a new nine-inch cable. The nine-inch specimen that was
made is now shown in the Mariners’ Museum at Newport News.
Even large cable is quite simple to marry. The first difficulty is
encountered when the strands are to be tucked. This difficulty was
met by rough-tapering the strands with a pair of shears and pointing
with rubber tape for about fifteen inches (#3570). The cable ends
were arranged as already described (#2708). The following descrip*
tion is for one joint of two ropes— that is, one third of the whole
splice.
Each pair of ropes was married as pictured at the top of the page.
One strand at the top having been left out of the seizing, the two
upper strands were “laid in and out” to the right. Both strands were
greased with tallow, and with a marlingspike the turn from the right
was pricked up and, using a heavy pair of blacksmith’s tongs, was
twisted out. The greased point of the opposite strand was inserted
in the vacated score far enough to be seized with the blacksmith
tongs. In this way the strands were laid out and in, three full tucks,
the trailing end being hove taut after each tuck. The way in which
they were tightened is described below as #2715. The bottom pair
of strands was then treated in the same way as the top ones.
The next thing to be done was to knot the center pair of strands.
This is shown in the fourth diagram. It is this knot and the pointed
ends that make the splice practicable. Both points being well tal-
lowed, the upper one was withdrawn nearly to the tip and the lower
one was rove, as pictured at the right of the fourth diagram. Half of
each strand was then cut out, after which the two ends were pulled
through simultaneously with the winch that is pictured below. Even
with well-tallowed strands it will help to pound with a mallet while
heaving on the strands. When all is faired, the other two pairs of
strands are knotted in the same way and the splice is one third com-
plete.
When all nine points have been tucked, beat the splice thoroughly
with a mallet from end to end several times, and trim all ends to a
four- or five-inch length.
In small-sized cable, the knotted strands may be pulled taut with
two marlingspikes and Marlingspike Hitches. Place one spike under
the insteps, the opposite one across the knees, as in #364.
2715 . In making large Cable Splices, I employed the winch that
is pictured alongside. Four one-inch boards were nailed together,
with an inch hole bored in each end. Then a whole board was added
below to stop the holes. The threaded ends of two long one-inch
eyebolts were sawed off with a hack saw. Two pairs of cleats were
nailed down the center of the bench, forming a four-inch groove.
The gap between the ends of the two pairs of cleats was five inches.
A lug was put on each bolt. Two small flexible wire ropes were
spliced to two rings and the other ends each had an eye to go over
a lug on the eyebolts. With this apparatus strands could be pulled
on as strongly as needed.
[ 44 2 1
LONG AND SHORT SPLICES ( MULTI- STRAND BENDS)
There are no new principles involved in wire splicing, but a dif-
ferent technique is required on account of the stiffness of the ma-
terial. A Short Splice in wire is seldom seen.
2716. A Short Backhanded Wire Splice. Seize the ropes at the
length of the splice. Tape the end of each strand and open the ropes,
cutting out the cores. Spread the strands fan-shape, and bring them
together just as two hands are clasped with interlocked fingers.
Force the ends closely together so that the two cores butt and seize
strongly at the point of crossing. The cores of the separate strands
are usually cut out before a splice is tucked. Hold in a vise at half
length, and back each of the six ends of one side under one strand
as shown in #2632, except that in wire splicing the marlingspike
points to the left when entering a rope, and the rope is entered and
tucked on the near side of the spike. Reverse the splice in the vise
end and tuck the other six ends once. Work them all snugly back
toward the center. Then tuck until all twelve ends have been tucked
four times full. Now back each alternate stra?id once more. Pound
well with a mallet, cut all ends flush and parcel and serve over the
whole splice.
2717. An earlier Short Splice is given by Admiral Knight in his
Seamanship . Each strand was tucked over one and under two, twice
full, once one half and once one quarter. The British Admiralty
(1932) specifies an ordinary Over-One- and-Under-One Splice,
tucked four times full, once two thirds and once one third.
2718. A Long Wire Splice. Take two small wire ropes (five
eighths of an inch in diameter will do), and seize each at a point ten
feet from the end. Tape the strands of each end in pairs > and open
each rope end into a three-legged fork. Crotch the two forked ends
and lay out and lay in the pairs to the right and left so that they are
evenly spaced five feet apart. Stop the right pair and the center pair
and open the ends of the left pair. Tape each strand and lay out and
lay in one opposite pair to the left for three feet. Then put stops on
both pairs. Open the center two pairs and lay in and lay out one pair
to the left two feet and the other to the right the same amount and stop
both pairs. Turn the splice end for end and treat the second end the
way the first was treated. The ends are now in six pairs.
Cross a pair of ends as in the fourth diagram and cut them all to
a one-foot length, first taping five or six inches of each end. Drive
a marlingspike between two ends and through the center of the rope.
Cut the core and lay out the core ends a short distance. Hold one
end of the splice in a vise, put a heaver (first diagram) on the other
end and have a helper twist the latter sufficiently to open the rope
so that the strand end can be thrust into the center, replacing the
core, as the spike is revolved. At the same time remove the core and
cut it off flush with the strand end. The remaining ends are worked
in the same manner.
2719. In lang-laid rope the strands and the rope have the same lay
or twist. The splice is made the same as #2718, except that the ends
are crossed differently for the final laying in.
2720. A wire rope spliced to a Manila tail . When wire halyards
were first introduced this splice was used. The wire end was opened
into three legs of two strands each and each leg was served or taped
the full length, and laid up again. The two ropes were then short
spliced together, the Manila legs being tucked six times, the wire
three. The splice is served over.
[ 443 3
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2723
2721. A Tail Splice, that is said to have originated in Bristol,
Rhode Island, was shown to me by Arthur Carlsen.
Seize a one-half-inch (diameter) wire rope at three feet from the
end. Lay back three alternate strands to the seizing and lay out one
half of each. Lay in the three remaining halves for nine inches, seize
the rope a second time and lay out the three remaining half strands.
Seize the three full strands that remain at nine inches from the
last (second) seizing and lay out one half of each strand. Lay up
the three half strands that are left for nine inches, put on a fourth
(and last) seizing and lay out the ends. Parcel and serve each
section. There should now remain only a nine-inch core. Taper this
to a point.
Open a Manila rope end two and a quarter inches in circumference
for about five feet and lay it up tightly over the tapered end of the
wire rope. Each set of wire ends should be divided evenly in thirds
and led to the surface between two Manila strands. Stop the rope
frequently, wherever needed. Seize the ends of the Manila strands
several inches to the left of the protruding wires (second diagram).
Thread several or one of the right-hand wires on a large sail needle
and stick them over and under into the Manila rope, but in a pe-
culiar way. In passing over (which comes first) the wire is pulled
down completely out of sight between two surface yarns. In tucking
under (which follows) the needle is thrust through the middle of
the next strand at right angles to it. In this way no wires appear on
the surface. Each group is differently led and is sewed from six to
ten tucks, so that the ends are well scattered. The last tuck should
be backed through the strand, and the end trimmed short. Pound
with a mallet. Tease and scrape the ends of the Manila rope and lay it
up around the wire. Parcel it and marl and serve the whole length of
the splice with Italian marline or fishline.
2722. Before the technique just described was generally adopted,
much the same splice was made by crotching the two ropes. A
number of wires were taped together and tucked in the regular short
splice manner except that the “over” wires were sunk between two
yarns as in the last splice. The wires were cut out at regular in-
tervals.
2723. A somewhat earlier Tail Splice was made as follows: The
wire end was rough pointed by cutting out one strand at a time.
The Manila rope was opened for several feet and the strands were
also opened. The lower half of the yams were marled down over
the end of the wire, the ends being scraped down. The remaining
yarns were then cross-pointed for a distance somewhat longer than
the wire point, and the ends were then seized.
2724. Drilling cable to Manila cable . Point the end of the wire
cable for about fifteen feet by first cutting out the core and then
reducing the strands, one at a time, until only one is left. If the
Manila cable has a heart it should be cut out for the full length of the
splice. Whip the end of the Manila cable. Seize the tip of the wire
cable to the Manila cable at the point where the Manila heart was
cut out and, with a marlingspike, lay the wire into the heart of the
Manila cable until within a foot of the whipping. Seize it there.
Next with a marlingspike lay the tip of the wire cable into the
Manila rope and remove the seizing. Taper the end of the Manila
cable for a foot and marl it down around the wire rope. Serve over
the whole length of the splice and snake the ends.
E 444 ]
\
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CHAPTER 35: EYE SPLICES (Multi-Strand Loops)
Every finger a marlingspike ,
Every hair a rope yarn.
Sailors’ Adage
2725. The Sailor’s Eye Splice. Form the eye and spread the
strands away from you fanwise, placing them against the rope where
it is to be entered. Untwist the rope one half turn, open the top or
center bight with a small fid, and stick the center strand under the
center bight from right to left, then stick the left strand under the
next bight to the left in the same direction and lastly stick the right
strand, from right to left, under the remaining bight. After this, tuck
all strands once more, over one and under one. Trim the ends at
a length equal to one diameter of the rope.
Ship-model builders should make this splice with three sail needles,
or else by drawing the ends through with a hairpin.
2726. The same splice tucked twice full , and once one half (called
two and a half tucks). If the rope is “long- jawed,” the splice may
be tucked four times full. The ends are often whipped twice, over
the last two tucks.
2727. Darcy Lever’s Sailor’s Eye Splice, from the Sheet Anchor
( 1808 ). Tuck the left strand a second time as shown, to bring all
the ends into the same tier, and then tuck all strands two and one
half times further.
2728. A Thimble Eye. Put on a stop or else chalk-mark the rope
at the point where the strands are to be opened, and also the point
where the ends are to be stuck. This length is equal to once the
round of the thimble, plus once the round of the rope. One half a
turn is taken out of the eye before the strands are stuck. After the
eye is completed, it is opened out with a fid and greased with tallow,
before driving in the thimble.
2729. In heavy rope the eye is made directly around the thimble.
In Rigging Splices the part that rounds the thimble is served over,
but hawsers are not served, as they do not dry out readily. After
looping the rope around the thimble, seize it at the bosom and then
again at either leg, close to where the strands are to be stuck. It may
be held vertically in a vise and a Spanish windlass used to heave the
legs together, or else use a marlingspike and heave with racking
turns.
I' 445 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2730. A Lead Line Eye Splice. The eye is made very long, the
splice is tapered and seized, or else served over.
2731. A Running Eye for a sail hook. The eye is made long and
seized over the final tuck. After it is in place, it is seized again, close
up to the hook.
2732. The Whaleman’s Eye is called “The Hitches.” A round
turn is taken about the shank of a whale iron and the rope in the eye
is untwisted one full turn . It is spliced as #272 6.
2733. A Long Eye or Long Running Eye is used in making fast to
a spar aloft. This saves the need of long reeving. The eye can be
tossed over a yard and lowered to deck, where a whole coil can be
passed through it before hauling it back to the yard.
Manwayring speaks of the “Eye Splice” in 1644. Of all splices,
it is the most important. Twenty or thirty of them may be required
aboard ship before a Short Splice is needed.
Anatomically, the Eye Splice is one of the queerest things that
exists. Its neck is between its legs, its crotch is between its arms, its
throat and bosom are in its eye, and it has but one eye.
In long and short splicing, the first direction given is to marry or
crotch the strands, but in eye splicing the first direction is to “stick”
the strands. Thereafter the strands are “tucked,” although the terms
are often used interchangeably. The technique of tucking was dis-
cussed at the beginning of the preceding chapter.
A seizing should be put around the rope before it is opened, which
should be at a distance from the end equal to about four and one
half rounds of a strand. Another seizing sometimes is added where
the strands are to be entered or stuck; it is sufficient to mark this
with chalk. Before sticking, one half a twist must be removed from
the lay of the part that forms the eye. Hold the bosom of the eye
toward you and the standing part away from you as you work. A
Wire Eye Splice is held vertically in a vise with the standing part
aloft, and is worked with a marlingspike. Manila is spliced with a fid.
pricker or marlingspike, whichever is easiest.
The beginner should whip the ends of all strands before com-
mencing work.
2734. The next two are experimental eyes. They are interesting
mainly because they indicate that with only three strands there are
still many different ways of starting a splice. Tuck strand 1 over and
under once, which brings all the strands in a tier. Then continue to
tuck as directed for #272 6.
2735. This is another experimental eye that appears to have a good
lead. Stick the center strand, which in this case is the bottom one,
first. Tuck all strands two and one half times.
2736. The Rigger’s Eye. The greater number of the eyes which
follow belong to the rigger, but this particular one is the eye that
is called “Rigger’s Eye” by both the sailmaker and the sailor. The
strands are stuck as the sailmaker sticks them and are then tucked
over and under as the sailor tucks them, once full, once one half, and
once one quarter.
2737. The Sailor’s Four-Strand Eye Splice. Tuck over and
under twice full, then divide each strand and tuck again. This splice
is strong, but not so neat as could be wished. The heart, if there is
one, is cut out in all Four-Strand Splices, unless otherwise directed,
and the final tucks are improved if they are made over one and imder
two strands.
[ 44 6 1
EYE SPLICES (MULTI-STRAND LOOPS)
2738. The Rigger’s Four-Strand Eye. Stick backhanded as shown
and then tuck over and under once full and once one half. This is to
be served over. All the tucks may be taken backhanded, in shroud-
laid rope, with fair success.
2739. Captain Daniel F. Mullins’ Four-Strand Eye Splice. Stick as
shown and tuck over and under as in #2738. This makes a good
Thimble Eye.
2740. An experimental Four-Strand Eye. Stick as illustrated, then
tuck strands 1, 2, and 3 over and under once more, which brings
all four strands into the same tier. After this, tuck all four once full,
once one half and finally one quarter. The splice is improved by
serving over.
2741. Another experimental Four-Strand Over-and-Under Eye
that is compact and strong.
2742. An experimental Four-Strand Over-and-Under Eye that
is firm and neat.
2743. A Five-Strand Over-and-Under Eye Splice is given in
Nares’ Seamanship (1874). Five-strand rope is unknown to me.
2744. Six-strand rope was once made of hide as well as of very
hard-laid hemp and was used primarily for tiller rope, which estab-
lished the connection between the wheel and the helm. It was used
for a few other purposes where there was excessive surface wear.
The Eye Splice was stuck as shown, and tucked over and under
three or four times full, after which it was tapered and served over.
2745. The Flemish Eye (i) is a Rigger’s Eye that was mentioned
by Lever in 1808. Nowadays it is frequently miscalled “Artificial
Eye.” One strand is laid out, and the eye is formed with the two re-
maining strands. The strand that was laid out is now laid around
the eye in the contrary direction. No strands are tucked. After
everything is fair, seize the strands at the straddle; scrape, worm,
tease, taper and fay all ends before serving them over.
2746. The Flemish Eye (2). This is started in the same way as the
foregoing, but after forming, it is seized at the straddle to hold the
strands in place. The innermost of the two strands that lead together
is cut off short in the straddle. The two remaining ends are tapered
and scraped, wormed and teased along the neck. The eye and splice
are both served over.
Some splices as well as knots bear several names; but if the ex-
clusive use of one name for a certain splice or knot would leave an-
other equally worthy without a distinguishing title, I favor the ar-
rangement that allots at least one name to each, provided it is not
contrary to the best usage.
When Dana’s Seaman's Friend was published (1841), the names
Flemish Eye and Artificial Eye had become confused. Speaking
of the latter, Dana said, “This is now usually called a Flemish Ey e.”
But Admiral Luce in 1862, speaking of the Artificial Eye, says:
“Sometimes, though improperly, called a Flemish Eyr.”
If Eye Splices are unfamiliar to the reader, banding will be found
an excellent material to practice with. Take three equal pieces (or
four for a Four-Strand Splice), seize them, and lay them up into
a rope for a length of about ten inches, as described in #144 or
#145. This structure will be found easy to tuck and easy to follow
and correct. It will hold its shape indefinitely, and will not fray out.
l 447 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2747. The Reeving Eye was first shown me by Captain Charles
W. Smith. As the eye bulks only four strands it can easily be rove
through a block if the block is of a proper size for the tackle. One
strand is laid out for a considerable length and the eye is formed
with the other two strands. When the eye has been turned, one end
is stuck as pictured and the other end is laid along the standing part
of the rope into the score of the long single strand that was previously
laid out. After laying the first end out and the second end in for
four or five rounds, half knot the two ends together and finish them
off by tucking as in a Long Splice, once one half, and once one
quarter. The end that was tucked at the straddle is now backed into
the neck of the eye as pictured and is tapered and trimmed.
2748. A Three-Strand Jib-Stay Eye is similar to the foregoing
except that the second end is not backed at the straddle. When the
position of the first illustration is reached the end of the strand is
divided equally into three parts and opened fanwise. The left part
is tucked over one and under one, the center part is tucked under
one, and the third part stands as it lies until the second tuck, when
all three are tucked over one and under one. Each of the parts is
then divided, the lower parts are wormed and the upper parts are
teased and scraped and fayed. The whole eye and standing part are
served over.
2749. A Four-Strand Jib-Stay Eye. This is very similar to the
Reeving Eye ($2747). Two strands are laid out and the eye is
formed with the other two. The two strands that formed the eye
are laid up the standing part into the score vacated by the pair that
was laid out. After several turns two of the opposing ends are knotted
and the remaining pair of strands are further laid out and in for
several turns, where they too are knotted. All ends are spliced as in
a Long Splice, once one half and once one quarter, the whole eye
and splice are served over, and a strong racking seizing is added at
the straddle.
2750. The Maiden’s Eye is one of the neatest of the Three-Strand
Over-and-Under Eye Splices. It was shown to me by Captain
Daniel F. Mullins. The strands have an excellent lay and the splice
is firm, strong and neat. The eye is formed as the Flemish Eye
Splice and is stuck as illustrated. The single strand (in the right
diagram) is stuck under the bight of the uppermost strand of the
pair that first formed the eye. All three strands are tucked over and
under, twice full, then two thirds, and finally one third.
[ 44 8 1
EYE SPLICES (MULTI-STRAND LOOPS)
2751. An eye somewhat similar to the foregoing is also started as
the Flemish Eye, and is stuck as shown by the arrow. Then it is
tucked over and under twice full, once two thirds and once one
third.
2752. A Four-Strand Eye. Open the end into two long forks of
two strands each. Knot the two forks at the bosom, taking out a
little of the twist, and lay up both legs as far as the straddle. Stick
them as in the third diagram, both sides being the same, and tuck
the splice over and under. Taper as desired.
2753. A Four-Strand Backhanded Eye. Tie in shroud-laid rope.
Cut out the core for the length of the splice. Form the eye as in
the foregoing and stick as depicted in the first of these two illustra-
tions. The front and back faces are identical. Back and taper each
strand in turn.
A Four-Strand Backhanded Splice is generally considered im-
practical, but if well served over this will prove satisfactory.
The sailor allows for his Eye Splice to weaken the rope by about
one eighth. Some of the rope manufacturers say that the loss of
strength is as much as one half. It would seem to me that, if an Eye
Splice is well made and the yarns are afterwards 'wormed , teased ,
and served over for a distance greater than the length of the splice,
such an allowance is excessive. In fact I think such a splice should
not prove weaker than the rope.
The sailmaker waxes his strands, the rigger greases his with tallow
but the sailor does neither.
The sailmaker taps his finished splice with a fid, spits on it and
burnishes it with the handle of the fid. The rigger pounds his with
a marlingspike or a mallet, while the sailor rolls his underfoot on the
deck.
The point of a fid, pricker or marlingspike should not be too
sharp or it will snag the yarns. A small fid of greenheart, with a
diamond-shaped cross section at the tip, and no sharp edges, is the
handiest tool I know. It is illustrated on the opposite page. Green-
heart is recommended because it is slippery without being greasy.
A good working fid may be made from a hickory hammer handle.
It should be sandpapered with the grain, and soaked in linseed oil or
even boiled in oil to make it hard and smooth.
In tucking splices, the overlaid part of a strand should be flattened
somewhat by the removal of a certain amount of the twist or la^;
the method was described near the beginning of Chapter 34 . Rigger’s
splices have the fewest tucks and sailmaker’s the most.
[ 449 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2754 . Sailmaker’s Eye Splices are shown on this page. Boltrope
being three-strand, the sailmaker is not concerned with Four-Strand
Eyes. The first three shown are actually identical in structure, al-
though this may not at first be apparent. They are different methods
that sailmakers have of sticking the same splice. The strand ends
are numbered in the order in which they are stuck.
The Sailmaker’s Splice is not intended to be used unsupported
by stitches. Recently in a sail loft I noted that twelve sail bench
hooks out of fifteen bore ordinary Over-and-Under Sailor’s Eye
Splices. This may be taken as an expression of opinion from the
sailmaker himself.
The common way of sticking the Sailmaker’s Eye Splice (i)
is the one given first. The splice being arranged as in the first
diagram, each strand is run down in turn— that is to say, it is backed—
the full length of the splice, then the next strand is run down. At
each tuck a few yarns are cut off short on the underside. The num-
ber of yarns removed should be the same for each tuck. The three
ends should terminate in a row, along the rope, when reduced to
three or four yarns. This is illustrated as #2757.
2755 . Sailmaker’s Eye Splice (2). Although differently stuck,
this is identical with #2754. At the beginning of Chapter 34, the
method of backing a sailmaker’s strand is described.
2756 . Sailmaker’s Eye Splice (3). This is also the same as #2754.
2757 . Sailmaker’s Eye Splice (4). The sticking of this splice is
structurally different. It is frequently seen, but is not often used
without a thimble. It is more regular, but a little less compact than
the common Sailmaker’s Splice. When sewed to a sail, this last is
unimportant. It is tucked as directed for #2754. Sailmaker’s Eye
Splices average about fifty per cent longer than the Sailor’s Eye
Splice. All splices in a sail are cross stitched for their full length,
A modification of this splice is used in archery to form the loop
of a modern bowstring. The “string” is a single yam consisting of
a multiplicity of small linen threads. These are laid up by hand for
about fifteen inches into three firm strands (#144), having the same
lay as the bowstring itself. After being laid up about nine inches,
the strands should be tapered gradually to the ends and, having been
beeswaxed, they are stuck at the nine-inch point and backed for
their full length. The right-hand illustration represents the finished
aspect of a Sailmaker’s Eye Splice. The eye of a bowstring is
proportionately longer and has no thimble.
2758 . A Backhanded Eye Splice that is stuck in the manner of the
Flemish Eye (#2745). Open a rope and lay out a single strand,
[450 ]
EYE SPLICES (MULTI-STRAND LOOPS)
for a length equal to the round of the eye. Form the eye with the
two ends which are still laid up together. The odd strand is then laid
back around the eye into its own score but in the direction contrary
to its original lay. Stick the three ends, as indicated by the arrows
in the diagram, and back the strands as previously directed.
2759. The Rigger’s Lashing Eye is stuck as the Sailor’s Eye
Splice (# 2725 ). It is employed on footropes, bobstay collars, top-
gallant sheet blocks, etc. Eleven lays of the rope are allowed for the
eye, which is stuck once and one half only, the ends are tapered and
scraped and the whole is served over with spun yarn. A lanyard,
half the size of the rope, is eye spliced into it.
2760. A Hawser Eye is often very large, suitable for throwing
over posts and piles. Stick as Eye Splice # 2725 , and tuck twice full.
Leave the strands long, divide the ends and cross whip them. Some-
times they are whipped twice at intervals of a few inches apart.
2761. A Cable Eye for a mooring is made in exactly the same way
but the cable has a reverse lay. The three ropes of the cable are
tucked exactly as if they were the three strands of an ordinary rope.
2762. A Hawser Thimble Eye. Stick the strands once full, divide
them and tuck them once, one half. Divide the remaining halves,
worm a part, tease the remainder, parcel, marl and serve over all.
2763. A Cable Eye. Open the cable and form an eye similar to
# 2745 , but employing the three ropes of the cable for strands. Take
the rope end indicated in the first illustration, open it into its three
strands (a cable consists of three three-strand ropes), stick one of
these strands (which is one ninth of the whole cable) under the rope
indicated in the first diagram. From each of the other two rope ends
lay out one strand. Worm these three strands up the cable. This
leaves six strands which are now opened, combed out, scraped,
teased, parceled, marled, tarred and served over.
2764. The Ropemaker’s Eye. In the ropewalk an eye is formed
in a cable, while it is being made, by doubling a long rope in the
middle and laying it up with a single rope of half its length. A long
end is left in the single rope end, and an eye is formed in this end,
which is laid parallel with the eye that is formed in the bight of the
The eye in the single rope is made in this manner: The rope is
opened and the strands stuck as illustrated. Half of each strand is
wormed and the remainder is scraped, teased and marled over. The
whole eye is then served with small stuff. A thimble is seized in and
a shackle is put through the thimble. The eye is used in the inboard
end of a cable.
[ 451 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2765. “Admiral the Hon. Sir George Elliot’s Eye,” as it was
called by Biddlecomb (1848), was later called “Elliot’s Eye.” The
cable is opened for a considerable length and stopped. Two of the rope
ends are “short long spliced” together; the ends, after half knotting,
are tucked but once. The single rope end is carefully chalk-marked
to show where it is to be spliced, in order to exactly parallel the eye
already made. The eye is formed and tucked twice only. The two
eyes are clapped together and stopped. A smaller rope is laid into
the score between the two eyes. The ends of this are cut and butted
and the eye is ringbolt hitched (#3605) with small rope. The eye
is made a little larger than the oval thimble used and is seized in.
It is used on the outboard end of a cable and is the eye that is
shackled to the anchor.
2766. A Fork Splice with Lashing Eyes. Open a four-strand
rope into a fork of two legs. At a short distance from the crotch
form eyes in each of the two forks at the same length and seize
them in with a racking seizing. Lay the ends back again to the fork,
which makes two legs of four strands each. Stick the ends at the
crotch as in Splice #2752. Tuck over and under, once full, once one
half and once one quarter. Taper and scrape the ends and serve over
the whole structure with spun yarn. The back and front are alike.
2767. The following is similar but neater. After forming one of
the eyes lead only one strand back to the fork. The other end is
tucked and backed as in Reeving Eye Splice #2747. At the fork
each end is stuck under one strand and is then backed and tapered.
The whole structure is served over with spun yarn or marline or,
if very large, with small stuff. By means of this splice a stay is
secured by lashing the two eyes together around the mast with a
small lanyard, which is first spliced through one of the eyes.
2768. Collar and Eye or Forestay Eye, also called Mouse and
Collar. At an early date the “Mouse” was raised with spun yarn.
But Admiral Luce, in 1866, says that parceling has been “found
sufficient for the purpose.” So raise your Mouse firmly and sym-
metrically by either method and graft the whole structure over
[ 452 1
EYE SPLICES (MULTI-STRAND LOOPS)
carefully. This having been done, form Eye #2745 in the end of the
rope, of a size to fit around the stay. The whole length of the stay
has to be rove through the eye when the ship is being rigged.
2769. To put an eye in the single strand of a rope: Seize the
strand and cut out the heart yams below the seizing, leaving only
the surface yarns. Divide these into three equal parts, and stick each
of these parts, after the ends have been whipped, exactly as in
Splice #2726, under one third of the surface yarns of the standing
part. Use for a tool a wire loop, tuck full four to six times according
to the slackness of the strand. Whip the splice once or twice with
sail twine or serve over the whole splice.
2770. A Marline or Two-Strand Eye Splice (i). Stick the
strands as shown and then tuck, over and under, four or five times
as needed.
2771. A Marline Eye Splice (2). Open into two long legs, half
knot at the bosom and make a Multiple Overhand Knot. Tighten
by pulling on the ends. Pass over two or three lays, sticking each end
through the same aperture, and then tuck both ends over and under
once.
2772. The Marline Eye Splice (3) or Tucked Eye is much used
in the ends of seizings and service. If several turns of service are led
over the loose end of the eye it will make it secure and it is excep-
tionally neat. Tuck twice as shown. Leave the end rather long and
bury it under the turns.
2773. Somewhat the same method is employed in lashings of small
stuff, a Clove Hitch being made before the two tucks are put in.
The splices in most of these drawings are shown “opened” so
that the reader may easily discover the lead of the various strands.
But the actual splices must be made as snug as practicable.
The ends of strands are often drawn in the illustrations much
shorter than is required for the tying. This is so that the scale of the
drawings need not be reduced to make room for the extra length of
the ends. For an average Eye Splice the opened ends should not be
less in length than ten times the diameter of the rope.
1 45 3 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2774. A Bight Eye Splice. This is used in boat lashings, in secur-
ing whaleboat stays, etc. Eye #2725 is put in a short rope’s end, the
other end of which is then side spliced to the stay or lashing. The
lower end of the stay is rove through a ring or eye at the gunnel,
and is then led up through the Bight Eye Splice. One or two round
turns are taken through the opposing eyes and are hauled taut.
Frapping turns are added and. the end is made fast around the turns.
2775. An Eye Splice in the bight. This knot or splice is to be
found described in the chapter on tricks and puzzles (# 2585 ). It is
slovenly in appearance and will injure the rope if used practically.
2776. A Round Eye. This is the result of an attempt to make a
Round Eye for the honda of a lariat. The inside of the eye presents
an even lay.
2777. A Grommet Eye. This was made for a fair-leader. The
grommet itself is described in the following chapter on odd splices
as # 2864 . It does not have to be of the same weight as the rope to
which it is spliced. Each end after tucking under one strand as
pictured is led around the back of the grommet and is there tucked
into its own standing part as indicated by the arrows in the first
diagram. After this the ends are tucked regularly over and under,
once full, once one half and once one quarter. The Right-Angle
Splice which attaches the rope to the grommet is also given as
#2851 in the next chapter.
2778. This is a similar eye based on William A. Larson’s Back-
handed Ring Splice (# 2859 ).
2779. A honda on a braided rope lariat is commonly made by
raveling and tapering the tip and then forming the eye and riveting
the end above the tip to the standing part with copper tacks. The
whole eye and neck is then served over with copper wire, or only
the bosom with copper and the rest with strong fishline.
2780. A Honda Knot with a side spliced end . Make a round turn
in the end of a rope and side splice the end to the inside of the turn.
Tuck the strands oncq, cut the ends off at a length equal to twice the
diameter of the rope and scrape to a taper. Serve the length of the
splice snugly with small fishline and add a Half Hitch with the
standing part.
2781. A Mainsheet Eye for a small boat is shown by Qualtrough.
When on the wind, the eye is fast to a hook, aft. When before the
wind, the hook is cast off and the knot above the eye fetches against
EYE SPLICES (MULTI -STRAND LOOPS)
a metal eye or ring on the boom. This allows of a much shorter
mainsheet than is customary. Cut the ends of the splice short.
The eye is stuck as in a Sailmaker’s Eye and the ends are tucked
(backed) once only. After this a Footrope Knot (#697) is tied and
doubled, close to the splice.
2782 . A Rigging Stopper Eye. Stick once only as in the foregoing
splice and then tie a Matthew Walker Knot with the ends. Two
of these were made in the ends of a long lanyard that was rove
through two deadeyes and used in repairing standing rigging that
was shot away in action. The Rigging Stopper or Fighting Stopper
is shown as #3302.
The same knot has been used on a cargo fall to support a heavy
counterweight with which to overhaul the tackle.
2783 . A Jib Sheet Eye is designed to absorb a portion of the
slatting of the sheet. Stick as in the foregoing, and tie a Double Wall
Knot (2) (#676). Scrape, tease and serve the ends.
2784 . A “fancy” eye found on an old whale harpoon now in the
Mariners’ Museum collection. Open a rope for a considerable length,
make a very careful Sailmaker’s Eye, having first laid out tw r o yarns
from each strand. Lay up the yams into three tight two-yarn foxes
and worm them the length of the splice. Put a wide whipping of
Italian marline at the throat and another over the final tuck and
snake the whippings.
2785 . A Grafted Eye. Open the rope for a considerable distance,
lay out half of each strand and with the remainder make a smooth
Sailmaker’s Splice, well tapered. Worm and parcel this (adhesive
tape will be found convenient for the purpose). Lay out six yarns
and graft over the splice with the remainder (see #2678). Tie a
Three-Ply Standing Turk’s-Head with the six yarns that were
laid out. Seize the end of the splice and add another Turk’s-Head.
Cut all ends short.
2786 . A Coachwhipped Eye is tied similarly to the last but the
surface is cross-pointed (#3026) instead of being grafted. First lay
out twelve yarns at the straddle, to be made up into two-yarn
nettles. With these a Six-Strand Matthew Walker is made at the
throat and another is made at the end of the splice with the ends of
the Coachwhipping, the superfluous ends being cut off close to the
seizing. Both #2785 and #2786 are often made of fishline instead of
the yarns of the rope itself.
[ 455 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2787. Salvagee or Selvagee Strap Eyes. Marline or rope yarn is
wound around two pegs or nails which are spaced according to the
length required. The strap is marled over and may be served as well.
The cores for chest beckets are often made in this way. The center
between the eyes is generally raised with spun yarn in order to
increase the size of the grip. The details of this are given in Chapter
41 (#3622). The eyes of chest beckets are commonly covered with
ringbolt hitching.
2788. Block straps were formerly made selvagee-fashion and were
either grafted or served over, after which the block was seized in.
Nowadays grommet straps are more commonly used.
2789. Slings or cargo straps are sometimes made with eyes tightly
seized into the doubled ends. These are seldom served over as the
selvagee has an excellent “cling” that is most desirable in slinging
cargo.
2790. A snotter for a spritsail rig has a large eye at one end and a
small one at the other. Generally these are regular Sailor’s Eye
Splices, but, when made selvagee-fashion,
served over.
2791. An Eye Splice for banding or other tubular braided mate-
rial. Pull out the heart and cut off about nine inches of its length.
Skin back the surface yarns in order to reach the heart. Then stretch
the cord and work the remaining heart back into place. Insert a large
sail needle six inches from the end and reeve it eye end first through
the tube for four inches, sticking it out to the surface. Thread the
needle with twine or copper wire, leaving a loop. Loop the bight
end of the sail twine or copper wire over the end of the banding
and pull the banding end through the tube until the eye is of the
desired size. Then smooth out the neck and stretch well before
trimming the end. If the material is soft, sew through with a few
stitches of twine near the cut-off end.
2792. An eye for a braided fishline , or a silk cord. Ravel for an
inch and a half. Twist strongly to the left and serve tightly to the
right with silk thread, holding one end of the splice in a vise or
clamp. This makes an excellent buttonhole in a cord for the knots of
Chapters 5, 9 and 10 when they are required in the end of a lanyard.
2793. An eye for a braided silk cord. Scrape to a taper, wax the
end and form the eye. Take a long thread of the same color and
material, thread it through the needle, seize with a Constrictor and
serve. Every two or three turns shove the needle through the
material instead of passing around it. Finish off as a whipping or sew
with the needle. See that all frayed ends are covered and that the
finish is smooth and even.
they are seized in and
[ 456 ]
EYE SPLICES (MULTI -STRAND LOOPS)
2794. A Sash Cord Eye. Open the cord and comb out the threads
for twice the length of the eye. Divide the threads into two equal
legs and form the eye by double half knotting the ends at half length
with a Constrictor Knot at the bosom and serve both ways toward
the throat with sail twine or fishline.
2795. An Eye Splice in sash cord or other hard braided rope.
Open the end for a length equal to four or five diameters of the
rope. Drive a sharp marlingspike through the rope where the throat
of the eye is to be, and stick one quarter, one third, or one half, if
possible, of the end through the hole. Scrape and tease both parts
of the end and serve over tightly or, for a neater job, graft over.
This splice is often made without sticking any part, but the method
described is more secure.
2796. Spindle, Artificial or Made Eye, often inaccurately called
a Flemish Eye. Steel gives “Made Eye” in 1794, Lever “Artificial
or Spindle Eye” in 1808. Dana, in 1841, says, “This is now usually
called a Flemish Eye,” but Luce in 1862 prefers “Artificial Eye.”
Formerly, this eye was put in the ends of stays but it is well adapted
to braided fope. Seize a rope at a distance from the end that is a
little longer than twice the length of the proposed eye. Take a billet
of wood, the size of the eye, to serve as a spindle. With strips of
canvas, spun yarn or adhesive tape raise two ridges around the
spindle, about the diameter of the rope apart. Lay five or six pieces
of marline lengthwise across these ridges and stop them in place with
rope yarns.
Open the rope to the seizing, and proceed to half knot opposite
yarns around the spindle. Scatter these Half Knots well around the
spindle. When all have been half knotted, seize the ends to the
throat. Remove the stops and reef knot the short lengths of marline
firmly around the knotted yarns. Remove the structure from the
spindle, scrape the ends to a nice taper and serve over both neck and
eye.
2797. A Spindle Eye for a jib stay is made of shroud-laid rope.
The heart is cut out. One fourth of each of the four strands is laid
out for a worming. Each worming is brought over the spindle
and half knotted to an opposite one. Bring the ends down and seize
them at the neck; worm them into the rope and seize them again.
Open the remainder of the strands and reef knot the yarns at widely
scattered points around the spindle. Cut off the ends, parcel, tar and
serve over the eye. Put in the thimble and serve over to the end of
the worming.
457 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2798. This page consists of eyes in sinnet or braided rope. Three*
Strand Flat Sinnet Eyes are found in gaskets and reef points.
Four-Strand and Six-Strand Round Sinnet Eyes, tied in the man-
ner here depicted, are to be found on sailors’ clothesbag and ditty-
bag lanyards. Generally the eye is made first, then all ends are
brought together and the sinnet is continued with double the num-
ber of strands. Two, three or four of the strands may be laid out at
the crotch and after the larger sinnet has been well started a
Standing Turk’s-Head (#1284) is made with the strands that were
laid out. This covers the joint completely.
2799. If the eye is to be tied in the end instead of the bight of the
sinnet, the sinnet is stoutly whipped, the strands are divided and laid
up into equal lengths of three- or four-strand rope. The two ends
are next crotched or married and then the strands are scattered as
in a Long Splice.
2800. In this the two arms are laid up into ropes in a manner
somewhat similar to the foregoing. But one arm is right-laid rope,
the other left-laid rope. The lay is loosely twisted. Having been
crotched, the two legs are next tucked into the opposfte leg in an
Over-and-Under Splice to the straddle. Then seize or else add a
Six- or Eight-Strand Standing Turk’s-Head, or some other desired
Multi-Strand Lanyard Knot.
2801. Instead of splicing the ends as in the previous eye, lay up
both arms with the same lay or else make a Four-Strand Sinnet of
each. Marry and seize the two ends at the bosom and there tie any
desired Shroud Knot from Chapter 19. Place a Turk’s-Head at
the straddle or if the joint between the standing part and the legs is
neatly arranged no knot need be added.
2802. Seize an eight-strand lanyard strongly and, employing each
alternate strand, make a Four-Strand Sinnet and form the eye with
it. Crotch the two groups of four strands at the straddle of the eye
so that they are alternately spaced around the neck. Seize well and
tie a Shroud Knot, such as # 1585. Rigging lofts employ a “turning-
in machine” or a rigging screw when putting a Wire Eye Splice
around a thimble or a deadeye.
2803. Often a Spanish windlass was used at sea for the purpose.
Two thimbles were seized as in the illustration, the lower one being
merely for temporary use in closing the eye. A well-greased strand
from a large rope was led around the shear pole as shown in the illus-
tration and was set up by twisting with two marlingspikes. When the
rope was brought together at the throat, two seizings were added, as
at the top of #2804, and a round seizing was put on at the throat,
after which the temporary thimble was removed.
2804. The same operation may be more easily done with a vise,
but the jaws of the vise must be grooved or else have a grooved bush-
[ 458 ]
EYE SPLICES (MULTI-STRAND LOOPS)
ing, preferably of lead; for otherwise there is danger of the rope
snapping out and injuring someone. Rope that is temporarily served
with marline is of course much less apt to slip than uncovered wire
rope.
2805. The British Board of Trade specifications (1932) call for an
Over-One-and-Under-One Wire Eye Splice. The technique of
handling wire strands has already been discussed somewhat at the end
of the previous chapter. The ends of all working strands should be
kept taped, or whipped. The rope itself should be strongly stopped
just above the point where the strands are to be stuck. It is well
to serve the rope over for the round of the thimble before the
thimble is seized in. After the heart has been cut out the strands are
stuck in the order marked on the diagram and pounded with a mallet
until all lie fair. After sticking as pictured, each strand is tucked
three times more over one and under one, then each alternate strand
only is tucked once, over one and under two, which serves to taper
the splice. After a thorough pounding with a mallet all ends are cut
short with nippers. Sometimes strands are split and tapered as de-
scribed for Manila splices, in which case the cores are first removed.
Finished wire splices should always be covered, as otherwise hands
are bound to be tom on the sharp ends. Sometimes, instead of being
served over, an Eye Splice is covered with canvas or else rawhide.
The seam goes around the outer edge of the eye and the wire beneath
should be painted with thick white lead. The thimble is driven in
with a hammer or a mallet.
2806. This is perhaps the most satisfactory way of sticking an
Over-One-and-Under-One Wire Eye Splice. Stick the strands in
the order numbered on the diagram, but after strand 3 is stuck do
not remove the marlingspike until 4 has also been stuck; this should
be under the same strand but in the opposite direction— that is, to
the left. Moreover be careful to observe that, after the end has been
opened fan-fashion and strands 1 and 2 have been stuck, strand 3,
which is actually the right-hand strand of the group, is passed to the
left under strands 1 and 2 and is tucked beyond them and to the
right. Strands 4, 5 and 6 are next tucked to the left. Work wire
strands firmly back into the splice but do- not force them sufficiently
to kink or bend them out of shape. Half the success of a wire splice
is in a thorough and proper pounding after all tucks have been
made.
Stick the splice four times full. Then stick alternate strands once
more over one and under two. Pound, cut off ends and serve over.
2807. An early form of Over-and-Under Wire Eye Splice, now
seldom seen, was tucked over one and under two. The strands were
tucked full twice, then tapered three quarters, one half, and one
quarter; or else two thirds and one third.
2808. This splice was lost in the shuffle.
1601
[459 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2809. The Backhanded Wire .Eye Splice (i). In America todav
most Wire Eye Splices are made backhanded. And if an occasional
Over-and-Under Splice does appear, the initial sticking is generally
the same as for a Backhanded Splice. In wire the splice is almost
always made directly around a thimble.
After sticking the strands as shown alongside, pound them lightly
to make them lie fair and then back them four times. Sometimes each
strand is backed twice in succession instead of once only at a time;
this saves time but the strands are not run down as in a Sailmaker’s
Splice. Start with the most backward strand and progress regularly
from one to the next. In a Backhanded Splice it is not necessary to
make the strands lie all in one tier. Work them well back toward the
throat but, without bending the wires, let them choose their own
beds. After having tucked the strands four times full, some riggers
will taper by cutting out one third at each subsequent tuck. But it
seems sufficient merely to back each alternate strand once more, but
under two strands, and then to trim them all as they lie.
2810. Backhanded Eye Splice (2). This way of tucking is seen
about as frequently as the former and is the one preferred by Cap-
tain Daniel F. Mullins. After the initial tucking the splice is put in
exactly in the same manner as the last.
2811. An Over-and-Under Splice, for single-strand ropes, or for
ropes of more than six strands. Seize the rope at the point where it
is to be opened and cut out not only the heart but all other wires
or strands except those on the surface. For the purpose of this
description we will assume that there are twelve surface wires.
Divide the surface wires into four groups of three wires each, taping
each group of three together at the ends and spreading the four
fanwise. Tuck the right group of three to the right under six wires.
Stick the next group in the same place but under only three wires,
then the third group to the right under the next three wires, and
finally tuck the last set of three under the remaining three wires.
Then stick all groups of three to the left as in any Over-and-Under
Splice. Tuck each time in regular rotation under one of the original
groups of three strands. A single-strand rope is generally left-laid,
so it will be spliced in the opposite direction from this description.
A six-wire strand (left-laid) should be spliced exactly as #2810 (but
reversely). If there are eighteen surface wires (or strands) divide
into six groups and stick as in #2810 (or reversely) and thereafter
tuck over and under as described for #2805 and #2806.
2812. In making eyes for wire guy ropes on telegraph poles and
derricks ashore, U-bolt shackles are ordinarily used. The nuts should
always be beside the standing part of the rope and never beside the
end.
[ 4 6 ° ]
CHAPTER 36: ODD SPLICES
That girl 'who fain would choose a mate
Who'd ne'er in fondness fail her
May thank her lucky stars if fate
Should splice her to a sailor.
Charles Dibden, 1745-1814
One hundred years ago Richard Dana, in Two Years before the
Mast , spoke of the “Homeward-Bound Splice” without giving any
intimation of just what such a splice might be.
At sea to u splice the main brace ” is to serve grog to all hands at
the completion of some particularly arduous labor. On a whaler
grog was always served when the last blanket piece had swung in-
board after cutting in a whale.
Moffat mentions the “Antigallican Splice” in Seamanship and
Rigging (1861); this is probably just another euphemism for the
Cut Splice, which at sea bears a far lustier name. “ Antigalligans”
were preventer backstays which, being single, required a Cut Splice
to pass over the topmast head.
Brady (1841) speaks of a “Short Long Splice,” which presumably
meant a Long Splice somewhat shorter than was customary.
To any woman the verb to splice means just one thing— to marry a
sailor. An Irish Splice is resorted to in rattling down. When a ratline
is too long or too short for its purpose a belaying pin is inserted in the
eye at one end and the lay is twisted, one way or the other, until the
ratline fits the space. This saves resplicing the eye.
Round Splice was the early English name for Short Splice; it is
given by both Captain John Smith and Sir Henry Manwayring.
The late Dr. F. A. Lucas, then acting director of the American
Museum of Natural History, some fifteen years ago told me the fol-
lowing story while splices were under discussion. He had heard it
aboard ship on his first voyage to the Chincha Islands in 1861.
[ 461 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
A sailor made a bargain with the devil. He was to have ten years
of affluence, but at the end of that time his soul would go to the
devil unless he could provide some task that the devil himself could
not perform. When the time for payment came, the sailor was at
his wit’s end, but at his wife’s suggestion he put a iiiarlingspike in
the grate until it grew red hot, then, pulling a hair from his wife’s
head, he invited the devil to splice the hair with the hot marling-
spike. The story has it that the devil failed.
It is hardly to the credit of humanity that the devil can always be
trusted to hold to his end of the bargain, although often cheated by
the other party.
2813 . Dog Pointing (i), also called Spanish Pointing, Crown
Splice, and Back Splice. At sea this is found on the ends of lead lines
and bucket ropes, its purpose being to give warning to the sailor that
the end is reached and to provide a handhold. There are a number
of ways in which it is made, the commonest being to crown the ends
right-handed and then to tuck over one and under one either one ol
two times, exactly as in a Short Splice. Generally, the tucks are all
the full size of the strand but sometimes the last tuck is halved.
2814 . Dog Pointing (2). Crowned to the right and the strands
backed. They may be tapered if desired.
2815. Dog Pointing (3). Seize the strands and without crowning,
tuck each strand over one and under one two or three times. Taper
the strands if desired.
2816. Dog Pointing (4). Without crowning, back all strands full
twice, then one half and finally one quarter.
2817 . Dog Pointing (5). Crown to the left and tuck to the right,
over one and under one. The two methods of tucking were described
at length in the beginning of Chapter 34. This is the preferred sailor’s
way of making the splice. The end is snugger than #2813, which is
the common way.
2818. Dog Pointing (6). Crown to the left and back all strand*
(the first two tucks are full), then taper if desired.
2819 . Dog Pointing (7). Open the rope for a considerable length
and make an exceedingly tight taper or rattail, as described in Short
Splice #2643, until one half of each strand has been cut out. At this
point put on a temporary whipping and then begin to back splice
at that point, without crowning, as in #2816. Remove the whipping
as soon as the splice is well started. Cut out yams at the same rate
that they were cut out while making the rattail. Back splice the full
length of the taper and stick the last few yarns of each strand
through the ttrand that is being followed instead of under it. The
ends should be laid out a-tandem, and cut off flush. If well done, the
pointing should be uniform in size with the rest of the rope.
[ 462 ]
ODD SPLICES
2820. To repair a stranded rope (i). Remove the chafed or galled
strand. Lay in a new strand of the same size but longer. Half knot
opposite ends where they meet and tuck once one half and once one
quarter, or else back and taper.
2821. To repair a stranded rope ( 2 ). If the chafed section is long ,
the splice to follow may be found more practical. Remove the chafed
section of strand. Divide the two-strand section that is left into
three equal parts and mark with chalk. Cut through one of the two
strands at one mark and the other strand at the remaining mark.
Telescope the two rope ends until the three pairs of strands overlap.
Lay the strands of the two ropes into each other as in any Long
Splice. Half knot all ends, see that the rope is fair, then tuck all ends
once full, once one half and once one quarter. If a four-strand rope
is to be mended, care must be taken that the joints of the cut strands
rotate around the rope in regular progression.
2822. To repair a stranded rope ( 3 ). If the galled section is shorty
remove it and, with a chalk, mark off on the rope at either side of
the two-strand section a length equal to or greater than the removed
part. Carefully cut one of the two remaining strands at each of these
marks and be certain not to cut the same strand twice. Lay the ends
together and splice as directed for the last splice. The outer ends
will require considerable overlap before the middle ends will be long
enough for splicing.
2823. To shorten arope in the center . This splice is often required
by sailmakers when cutting down the size of a sail. Mark the rope
in three evenly spaced places a foot or more apart and cut one strand
at each mark. Then the rope is laid up again at the correct length
and the splice is made exactly as directed for # 2821 . In the present
splice, however, the original strands are rejoined.
2824. The One-Strand Splice, often called Sailmaker’s One-
Strand Splice. The purpose of this is to lengthen a rope; it is often
required by sailmakers when the width of a sail is to be increased by
the addition of one or several cloths. Cut the rope strands at three
evenly separated points. The distance between two adjoining points
must equal the required extra width of the sail plus an amount suffi-
cient to tuck the two strands. A single long strand of the same size
material is laid in for the full length, beginning at the extreme left
and allowing sufficient material for tucking. Splice as already di-
rected for # 2821 . It will be noted that there are four joints in this
Three-Strand Splice while there are only three joints in the others.
These splices are required in boltrope. For all other purposes ropes
are added to, or shortened, at the ends. Similar splices, of course,
could be put into four-strand or six-strand rope. But the sailmaker
uses only three-strand rope, so ordinarily the occasion does not arise.
2823
2824
[ 463 ]
• 4 *
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2825. A Double Loop Splice for small rope drives (belts) is of
hard-twisted cotton. The rope and splice are made together on a
“coning machine,” so called because the rope, being of only two
strands, does not require a “top” to guide the strands, and instead
is closed with a metal cone which is held at right angles to the rope.
Four or five cotton yarns are middled and placed around the upper
left hook. They are led parallel, first around the single hook at the
right, next to the lower hook at the left, and back to the single hook
at the right. Finally they are made fast with a Clove Hitch to the
upper and longer hook at the left. The two hooks at the left are
revolved at equal rate until the strands are tightly twisted. The cone
is then inserted between the two strands close to the hooks at the
right; the single hook at the right is disengaged so that it may turn
freely, and as the cone is moved to the left, the twist in the strands
causes the single hook at the right to spin, and as the cone moves
from right to left a two-strand rope is formed.
The Clove Hitch on the upper left hook is now removed and the
two single ends from the lower hook are rove through the eye (see
the bottom illustration). One of the two single ends from the upper
hook is next rove through the smaller eye. The two ends, being led
beyond each other, are laid into the strand and buried or sunk, as
shown in the drawing.
The single large loop that has just been formed is now put over a
left hook. The left hook is revolved until the rope is entirely un-
twisted again and reduced to two tightly twisted strands. The cone
is introduced between the two strands at the extreme right, the right
hook is disengaged so that it may revolve freely, and the cone is
moved at a steady rate to the left, which lays the rope up again and
completes the belt. When the belt is to be put to use, the two eyes
are joined together with a little metal clip.
2826. Side Splice ( i ) . A three-strand end to a three-strand bight.
The strands are stuck as pictured and tucked over and under twice
full, then they are split and one half the strand tucked again. This is
structurally the same as Eye Splice #2726. To side splice two strands
of a rope, proceed as in Eye Splice #2769.
2827. Side Splice (2). A four-stra?id end to a jour-strand bight .
Stick the strands as pictured and splice over and under exactly as in
the Sailor’s Four-Strand Eye Splice #2737.
2828. Side Splice (3). A single strand is spliced to a rope with
three full tucks and then is split and stuck one half and a whipping
is added. The end should not helix around the rope but should pro-
gress as pictured.
2829. Side Splice (4). A jour-strand end to a three-stra?id bight .
Stick the strands as pictured. Lay together one half of each of the
two left strands and tuck them as a single strand. Then tuck all three
strands, full twice, and once one half.
2830. Side Splice (5). A three-strand end spliced to a jour-strand
bight. Divide the left strand into two equal halves and stick all four
ends as in a regular Four-Strand Eye Splice (#2737); then divide
and lay out half of each of the two full-sized strands and tuck the
four half strands that are left twice more.
2831. Side Splice (6). A small rope is side spliced to a larger one
in much the same way as #2828, except that the small rope is opened
[ 464 ]
ODD SPLICES
out fanlike and the three strands are combined and tucked as a unit,
four or five times full. If the splice is seized, three tucks are enough.
The tucks should be parallel with the length of the rope, not at right
angles to the lay, as the latter method tends to twist when pull is
exerted.
Buoy ropes and heaving lines are often spliced to larger rope in
this manner.
2832. The name Cut Splice is mentioned in Phillips’ Dictionary
of 1658. Other book names for the splice are Cont, Bight and Anti-
galligan. The splice is put in standing rigging for pendants, jib
guys, breast backstays and odd shrouds. The slit passes around
a spar or block and the ends are side spliced each to the standing
part of the opposite end, and the ends are secured with racking
seizings or else the splice is served over.
2833. This Cut Splice bulks only one strand larger than the rope
itself. One strand at each end is laid back for a distance greater than
the splice. One of the two remaining strands at each end is then laid
into the opposite rope for some distance and spliced to the opposite
end that was laid out. The two ends that were left, one at each
straddle, are tucked where they lie over and under, three and a half
times. Seize each end of the splice with racking turns (#3403). Com-
pare with the Reeving Eye Splice (#2747) in the last chapter.
2834. The Horseshoe or Span Splice is used in standing rigging
when the lead of either shrouds or stays diverges too much for a seiz-
ing. The two ends of a short piece of rope are side spliced as #2827.
2835. The early Earing Cringle was side spliced to the head and
leech ropes of a square sail. Later Earing Cringles are given on page
468.
2836. Square-sail clews of 1847. The clew rope of courses and top-
sails on ships of over five hundred tons was the same size as the bolt-
rope. On other square sails it was one inch larger in circumference.
Staysail clews were half an inch larger than the boltrope. The clew
itself was fourteen lays of the rope in length. It was stoutly seized
and then the legs were side spliced to the boltrope. The whole splice
and the eye itself were parceled and served. Eyelet holes were
worked into the tablings of the sails, and the clew was marled to the
boltrope for the length of the service.
2837. In 1794 the clew rope of the topsails and courses was spliced
into the leech at the lower Bowline Cringle and to the footrope at
the first Buntline Cringle. It was necessary to marl the sail to the
boltrope because the service was too hard to thrust a roping needle
through. But in all small sails of this period the clews were seized
directly into the boltrope itself, requiring no splices.
2838. A bull earing , also called a head earing , is the rope which
lashes the upper corner of a square sail to its yard or jackstay.
It is interestingly tapered by means of a series of Side Splices. The
end of a long rope is first laid back and side spliced (#2826) to the
standing part at the desired length of the taper. The doubled length
is next divided into thirds and marked with chalk. A short piece of
the same size rope is laid parallel with the eye already formed and is
side spliced at the marked points. An eye is seized in and the whole
splice parceled, marled and served over.
[ 4 6 5 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2839 . “Hitches” found on an old grommet iron . This was an ex-
perimental toggle iron or whale harpoon, circa 1830-34. Two ends
of a short 1 % -inch hemp rope were spliced together with a Cut
Splice. The doubled part was closely seized around the shoulder of
the harpoon socket. The eye formed was about eight inches long.
Another similar “hitches” of the same period consisted of eyes in
the two ends of a short span that were spliced directly around the
harpoon shank and then seized together.
2840 . A Tucked Cut Splice is tied in marline and is used as a bend
in service.
2841 . Three ropes side spliced together (see #2826). The splice
is snugly seized by passing the seizing stuff alternately over and un-
der, around the juncture.
2842 . Cringles are tied in the boltrope of sails, and bowlines, ear-
ings, reef tackles, buntlines and leech lines are secured to them. They
are also used in tacks and clews, being easier to replace than seized-
in eyes. The earliest cringles were merely short pieces of rope some-
what smaller than the boltrope, which were side spliced at each end
as #2835. Reef Tackle Cringles were tucked three and one half
times at the lower end and only two and one half times at the upper
end, the lower end being more apt to draw. Bowline and buntline
cringles span only four lays of the boltrope.
2843 . “Made” Cringles, tied directly into the boltrope, are made
with a single long strand of new rope a half inch smaller in circum-
ference than the rope in which they are stuck. According to Lever
(1808), “All these cringles are now generally worked around thim-
bles.” But Alston, in i860, states that Reef Cringles have thimbles
but Bowline Cringles do not require them. Cringles without
thimbles are by no means rare even at the present day. The three
turns, shown in the first diagram here, are enough for an ordinary
cringle but as many odd turns as seven may be required on occasion.
With the back of the sail toward you, stick a long strand under
two lays of the boltrope, draw through until one third of the strand
is toward you and two thirds of it is away from you. Lay the two
ends up loosely together to the right, finishing with the long end
toward you. Stick the long end away from you at the right end
under two lays, leaving the short strand in the position pictured.
Lay the long end back again to the left. When the position of the
second diagram is reached, stick the two ends over and under twice.
2844 . This is the same cringle as the last except that the two ends
are backed instead of being tucked over and under. The date of this
is much later than the former; in fact it can hardly be much earlier
than 1 8 jo.
2845 . The seamanship books, as late as i860, show cringles tucked
through the boltrope, but as early as 1794, Steel states that “beckets
for reefing are made through eyelet holes in the tabling.”
This cringle is made with any odd number of turns (as described
above) and the strand is stuck through eyelet holes instead of through
[ 466 }
ODD SPLICES
the boltrope. Instead of splicing-in the ends they are passed a second
time through the eyelet and knotted together on the underside of
the cringle. Divide the strands and then tuck once more.
2846. The English Cringle, as tied by William A. Larson, fore-
man of the C. E. Beckman sail loft.
In all these cringles an even lay must be maintained. This is not
hard if the twist of the strand is not forced in any way and is tied
loosely and later worked snug. Sailmakers frequently wax the
strands.
Cringles may be tied around thimbles and worked snug or they
may be completed first and the thimbles pounded in after. In the
latter case the thimbles must be entered on the canvas side . If en-
tered on the boltrope side they are apt to foul the edge of the canvas.
If you are employing a tarred hemp strand, rub the strand well
with a piece of canvas to smooth out the lay. A handsome cringle
can be made with hemp small stuff, the full size. The lay, of course,
is right-handed, so the cringle is tied the reverse of the directions
given here for a single-strand cringle. If you are tying with Manila,
employ if possible a single strand from a jour-strand rope of the
same size as the boltrope, and disturb the lay as little as possible.
Stick the strand through the left eyelet with the long end at the
back. Take any desired number of turns and tuck the long end
through the right eyelet (from front to back) and continue to lay
in the long end to the left eyelet and this time tuck from back to
front. Tuck the short end through the right eyelet front to back and
to the right of the part already there. Each end is now backed, as
illustrated in the second diagram, until the two ends are tucked down
past each other as shown in the third diagram. Open the cringle well
with a fid before pounding in the thimble.
A cringle will make an excellent emergency handle for a suitcase.
2847. A cringle finished off on the crovon . William A. Larson calls
this the Dutch Cringle. It is the one tied when the thimble is to be
put in place before the cringle is worked snug. It was first shown to
me by Rodman Swift. It is started exactly as the last but, after pass-
ing through the eyelet a second time, is tucked as shown in the upper
left diagram, continued as in the lower left diagram and finished off
as in the upper right diagram.
2848. American Cringle, also called French Cringle. This is
similar in appearance to the last, but the ends are tucked instead of
being knotted. It may be made around a thimble without additional
tucking.
2849. A Sinnet Cringle can be made of signal line. Reeve the cord
through the outer side of the left eyelet, leaving the upper end very
short. Pin out the cringle over a copy of the lower diagram.
Tighten ana sew or seize the two ends together on the inside. “
If a shorter cringle is desired, leave out the section between the
two dotted lines of the lower diagram. If a longer cringle is desired,
avid one or two of these sections.
[ 467 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2850, 2851. The Head or Earing Cringle consists of an Eye
Splice in the head of the leech rope, and a Right- Angle Splice in
the headrope stuck into the crown of the leech rope Eye Splice.
This forms an eye by which the upper corner of a square sail is bent
to its yard. The descriptions of the Earing Cringle are very meager.
All the definite information that I have found is the statement that
it has fourteen turns in the eye. The eye was an ordinary Over-and-
Under Splice, since the Backhanded Splice had not been invented.
The earliest Head Earing Cringle is shown as #2835. The one we
are discussing was first described (as above) in 1794. The two that
are given here are attempts at reconstruction. Stick as in the dia-
grams and tuck all ends over and under twice full, once one half,
and once one quarter. This will make an excellent splice to the bolt-
rope in a cargo net.
2852 . Kipping (1847) describes a somewhat different splice in
which one strand is turned back into the headrope, the other two
strands being spliced into the eye. In all three splices the eye in the
leech rope should be made as $2726. Kipping allows only eight
turns for the eye, which appears rather small. The splice given here
conforms to Kipping’s description quite well. The center strand is
stuck and turned back, the lower strand is split and stuck as shown.
All three ends that point to the right are tucked over and under
twice, then the full strand has one half laid out and all three (half
strands) are tucked once more and then are redivided and given a
final tuck.
The single strand to be spliced back into the headrope is divided
into thirds, one third is left where it stands, the two remaining thirds
are tucked under the adjacent strand to the left and the left one of
these two is tucked under one additional strand— that is, under two
in all. All three are now spliced as they lie, over one and under one,
twice full.
2853 . A Right-Angle Side Splice of four strands. Use two ropes
of the same size, stick as shown and then tuck three times full and
taper if desired. This splice makes a considerable bunch around the
rope.
2854 . Three-Strand Side Splice. Stick as shown and then tuck
the single left strand once over and under to the left and the two
right strands over and under once to the right. Stick each of the two
right ends once more over one and under two . Now either back the
single end several times or else split the strand and stick one half
over one, under one, and the other half over one and under two.
Lastly stick both halves over one and undef one.
2855 . A Four-Strand Side Splice that is more symmetrical and
handsomer than the three-strand one just shown. Open your rope
and whip it at the straddle and stick as pictured, each strand under
one bight. Now tuck the strands over and under full twice, once
one half and once one quarter. Work the parts back snugly toward
the center.
The Head Cringle Splices described as #2850 and #2851 may be
stuck into a straight piece of rope to form Right-Angle Splices,
[468]
ODD SPLICES
and any of the splices might serve as Right-Angle Splices on cargo
and boarding nets.
2856. The Foot Stopper or Boom Stopper Knot, by which the
foot of a fore-and-aft sail is bent to the boom. It appears to be a
British or European product not often seen on this side of the At-
lantic. A short piece of rope is middled and stuck through an eyelet
in the foot of the sail. Each end is stuck through the strands of the
opposite end at the proper point to form a small eye around the
footrope. This is drawn up snugly and then the two ends are reef
knotted around the boom. By means of this contrivance a sail may
be foot loosed or bent as quickly as a reef can be put in or shaken
out, and exactly in the same way. They are cast off when sailing
free and tied in when on the wind. Used on small craft.
2857. A Reef Becket Eye. Reef beckets for a while in the 1880 s
superseded gaskets for securing furled sails. Often they were of sin-
net and the rope was seized at a distance from the toggle equal to
one round of the yard to which it was to be attached. Some of them
were seized to the jackstay at the neck of the toggle, others were
passed around the yard.
A toggle was spliced into the end of a short piece of four-strand
rope. The rope was divided into two-strand legs, which were laid
parallel for four inches and then laid up four-strand again for four
inches more. Then once more they were laid up into two parallel
two-strand ropes for eight inches; two eyes having thus been formed,
the rope was laid up four-strand for nine inches to the end, and
whipped.
A single strand of the same material, about two feet long, was next
middled and laid into the lower crotch of the four-inch eye; one
end was laid up into each leg of the eye to the top where it was
spliced in, over and under two and a half or three tucks. The ends
should be stuck so that they tuck over and under alternate strands.
2858. The Link or Chain Splice has long been used in securing
hemp tails to chain running rigging. Reeve two strands through a
chain link or a ring, and lay one of these strands back into the rope,
it the same time laying out the strand that did not pass through the
chain. Join the ends as in a Long Splice. The remaining strand is
backed and tapered as described in Splice #2747.
2859. William A. Larson’s Ring Splice, made on a ring clew in
yacht sails. It is stuck as illustrated, then each strand in turn is tapered
and back spliced seven or eight tucks. The last two or three yarns
are stuck and backed through the strand, instead of under it.
2860. A splice that is very similar to the foregoing except that it
is stuck reversely and then tucked over and under while being ta-
pered. Splice $2851 is based upon this one.
Grommets (pronounced grunrmits) are used for block straps,
quoits, deck-tennis rings and eyelet hole reinforcements. They are
sewed to the bottoms of draw buckets. Loosely tied in dish towels,
*
they are used on cabin tables to prop dishes in a seaway. Tied in a
neckerchief, they form the Porter’s Knot.
[ 469 !
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2861. The earliest form of grommet is a short piece of rope in thv
shape of a circle with the two ends short spliced together. One half
a turn from the lay of the rope is removed before crotching. These
were the first mast hoops and also the first jib hanks. Block straps
are sometimes still made in this way.
2862. A grommet of two leads and three bights may be capsized
into a grommet of three leads and two bights .
2863. A True-Lover’s Knot, consisting of two interlocked Over-
hand Knots, when drawn together and a single tuck added, becomes
a Three-Lead, Four-Bight Grommet.
2864. 2865. The Common Grommet is made with a single strand
in two ways. After completing two circles with any wanted number
of loose turns, start the third circuit either as #2864 or as # 2865 ,
and continue to lay the strands parallel. The ends are finished off as
in a Long Splice. These two starts make all possible grommets of
three leads. A grommet in Manila is tied preferably with a single
strand of four-strand rope. In tarred hemp, grommets are made of
small stuff, the full size. Eyelet Hole Grommets in sails are of
marline or small wire. The length of strand required for a grommet
is three times the circumference of the grommet plus six times the
round of the rope.
Grommets of Round Sinnet are shown as Turk’s-Heads #1382
and # 1384 .
*
2866. To make a Wire Rope Grommet: Nail five small blocks of
wood to the top of a workbench, with two projecting nails in the
upper and wider block, and a screw eye in each of the others. Bend
a full-size piece of wire rope into your frame for a clue so that each
nail holds one of the two ends, which are separated several inches.
Turn the screw eyes to hold the rope in place.
Take a single strand of wire rope twenty-two times the diameter
of the proposed grommet. Lift a strand from the end of the clue rope
in the frame and seize in its stead the center of the single long strand.
Continue to lay out the end that was lifted and lay in the iong strand
in its place. Keep the screw eyes turned so that the strands will not
spring out. Keep all ends stopped with marline. When the working
strand is to be led across the gap between the two ends, it must be
laid in beside its own first-laid section, on whichever side is the easier .
If the ends are not exactly opposite they can be untwisted a little
with a pair of pliers, but they cannot be twisted tighter . If necessary,
change the size of the grommet slightly.
When one end of the single strand is exhausted, use the other end.
When the six full rounds of the grommet are completed, hammer
lightly with a mallet, then lay the ends into the core as described
for Long Splice # 2718 .
2867. A Cable Grommet: Take a piece of tarred halibut line
fourteen times the circumference wanted for the grommet. Middle
the cord and make one complete turn at the center, imparting no
extra twist. Then half knot the ends with the lay and proceed to
make a very loose ordinary grommet of three circuits (# 2864 ).
When, after three rounds, the two ends meet, half knot them in a
direction opposite to the lay and with one end continue to helix
around the other end of the single cord. Follow the single cord three
full times around the circuit and then place one end beside the other
and follow three more circuits between the two strands that are ah
ready in place. Knot the ends and bury them well.
[ 470 1
CHAPTER 37: CHAIN AND CROWN SINNETS
Sinnet is a Line— made of Roape Yames— 'which are divided and
platted One over Another , as they plat Horses Maines.
Sir Henry Manwayring, 1644
There are several forms of the word sinnet y among them synet ,
sennet y sennett , sennit and sinnit. But the older sailors that I have
known invariably pronounced the word sinnet; and the early and
best nautical authorities— Captain John Smith (1627), Sir Henry
Manwayring (1644), Thomas Blanckley (1750), and R. H. Dana
(1841)— agree on the spelling as I give it.
Falconer (1769) appears to be responsible for the present diction-
ary form of the word, sennit , which he attempts to derive from
seven plus knit. But the sailor is perhaps more familiar with netting
than he is with knitting, and I hazard that W2(gle) plus net is a more
plausible derivation, and that most derivations are mere guesswork
anyway.
The word braid appears to have been applied almost exclusively
to Flat Sinnets.
The word plat or plait , besides meaning braid, also means a fold in
cloth. It is often spelled pleat , but is always pronounced plat at sea.
Sailors use the word when platting a mat.
Sinnet appears to be the only comprehensive term for the present
subject that carries no other meaning.
On shipboard sinnet is employed for chafing gear; it was formerly
used for service and for reef points, gaskets, robands, earings and
lashings.
Chain Sinnets are made of one or more strands that are formed
into successive loops, which are tucked through each other. They
savor of crochet and knitting, and as such are often termed “chains”
or “chain stitch.”
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
We are all of us familiar with the “spool” reins that are made by
children in parti-colored worsted. But fewer will know that this h
the way that purses were commonly made so late as 1 840 , and that
crocheting was at that date just being introduced into England. Most
of the sinnets to be shown here, although they may be made with a
crochet needle, were first made either with fingers alone or else on
one of these spools, of which there are several sorts.
2868. Chain Sinnet, also called monkey chain , monkey braid ,
single trumpet cord y single bugle cord , chain stitch , crochet stitch ,
and chain braid . This is one of the most universal of sinnets, and is
employed for a variety of domestic purposes. It is often found in
gold on dress uniforms. It is used as a shortening on window-shade
and electric-light pulls and on aerial circus apparatus, where the
end is freed and pulled to ravel the sinnet when it is time to put the
rope to use. It is built up on a uniform series of single loops and is
completed by drawing the working end through the final loop,
which prevents raveling.
2869. Made with a series of hitches instead of loops, the chain is
handsomer, thicker, possibly stronger, and certainly more shipshape.
2870. The method is sometimes used when larger and stronger
cordage is needed than is quickly available. One end of a long cord
or string is held and wound by a second person while the maker
with alternate hands sticks a finger through the loops in turn and
hooks a bight each time, and with a constant swinging of the arms
makes a chain of long loops as rapidly as the other person can wind.
This threefold chain is then tripled in the same manner that the
single cord was, after which the operation may be repeated. Finally
an ordinary Three-Strand Plat may be made, or three sections of
the resulting chain may even be loosely twisted into a rope of sorts.
The method provides about the quickest way there is to make a
strong rope without tools, and with only small material to work
with.
2871. Chain Sinnet, doubled, is called “ trumpet cord”; some-
times it is called “ double trumpet cord .” To double, with the standing
end take two full turns around the working part. Successive bights
from the working end are then tucked through tiro bights , the sur-
plus material of the earliest tuck being worked out after each new
tuck is made. If built up with a series of hitches instead of turns
(illustrated in # 2869 ), the product is more compact, being pro-
nouncedly triangular, and the bottom side in particular is much
improved in appearance.
2872. Trumpet cord may be tucked through triple loops if desired,
which produces a larger but no handsomer cord. This also may be
made with hitches instead of turns in a manner similar to # 2869 . To
finish off the sinnet, stick the end through the three final hitches in
precisely the way illustrated for tucking the loops. In #2871 the end
is tucked through two loops or hitches as shown in the illustration.
CHAIN AND CROWN SINNETS
Any of the sinnets on this page may be made with a crochet
needle. They may also be made on a spool of one peg by the methods
described on pages 474 and 476. Number 2869 is made by placing
successive hitches over the pin; the rest by merely making a turn.
Either method may be doubled by passing a turn of the strand a
third time around the pin, then casting off the lower turn only at
each operation.
2873. The chains that were just shown resemble closely, ion the
reverse side, the ordinary Flat sinnet, of the next chapter. By tuck-
ing each loop alternately over, under and over, instead of uijder all
three parts, a sinnet will be made that closely approximates French
Sin net and that will make a very handsome trumpet cord. The final
illustration shows the reverse side.
2874. This illustrates a chain carried one step farther than the last
and tucked over, under, over and under. The method rapidly be-
comes cumbersome and it would seem that these two are sufficient
for all practical purposes. But there is no limit to the number of
loops and sizes that are theoretically possible.
We have now finished with the Flat Chain Sinnets of one strand
and most of the remainder of the Loop Sinnets may be characterized
as Tubular Sinnets, since they have a roundabout circuit. Many of
them can be made by hand alone, and most of them may be made on
a spool, but if large cord is used the hand method is recommended.
2875. The chain “fork” is an old apparatus for making square
chains of small thread, generally of silk. This was the common cord
for hanging lockets, eyeglasses, etc.
Sometimes the forks are of ivory, often they are of ebony or holly.
The one pictured, which is my own, is made of boxwood. Sailors
make this sinnet in larger material by hand and it can scarcely be
told from ordinary Eight-Strand Square Sinnet. Miss Lambert in
her Hand Book of Needlework (1842), illustrates a chain fork which
does not have the shoulders that are pictured here.
2876. The braiding spool pictured is a familiar contrivance that is
generally considered a child’s toy. It commonly has three or four
pegs, which makes a Six- or Eight-Sided Sinnet that is practically
round. With one peg only a Single Chain Sinnet (#2868) can be
made. Spools are commercially made in different forms, sometimes
with a sliding wire carrier to lead the yarn around the pegs. One can
be made with a large base, and with a hole entering at one side so
that the finished sinnet may be led from the side or front while the
spool rests solidly on the table. By this means both hands are left free.
2877. Miss Lambert gives a “purse mould” of many pegs. She
minutely describes the old method of making purses, of the sort
that Cyrano de Bergerac, in the persons of Mansfield, Coquelin and
Hampden, used to toss about the stage so carelessly, but states that
“since the introduction of crochet, these moulds have not been much
used.” A large Cylindrical Sinnet of sail twine, made on a mold of
this sort, after being moistened, stretched and dried, makes a strong
bag or pocket for holding odds and ends.
[ 473 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2878. Square Loop Sinnet. To work on a fork (or on a two-
pegged spool) : Tie a Tom Fool’s Knot in the end of a cord. Put one
loop over each arm or peg and drop the short end of the cord down
through the hole in the bottom of the fork. Lead the working end
of the cord around the fork to the left, laying it outside the fork
and above the first loop. Lift the first-laid loop over the peg and cast
it off over the top of the last-laid part to the inside of the fork. Lead
the cord around the next peg, laying it just above the previous loop,
and lift the first-laid loop over the last-laid part and cast it off on the
inside. Continue in the same way, always working to the left or, if
more convenient, to the right. From time to time pull the completed
end down through the hole in the fork or spool.
To make the same sinnet in hand of larger material. Tie a Tom
Fool’s Knot in the end of a fishline. Revolve the structure counter-
clockwise. Pass the line over the first loop of the Tom Fool’s Knot
and pull a short bight of the working part down through the loop
of the knot. Continue to revolve the structure counterclockwise and
pull down another short bight through the other loop of the knot.
Then work the knot snug. There are now two new loops in the
structure. Revolve it counterclockwise a half turn at a time and pull
down another loop through the next lower loop. From time to time
draw out the surplus material from the lower loops. Continue tuck-
ing new loops and tightening lower loops, keeping the sinnet even
at all times. Each time a loop is tucked down through the earlier
loop, the earlier loop is at once drawn snug.
2879. A Double Square Loop Sinnet. Work as before until two
loops have been stuck through each end of the original Tom Fool’s
Knot. But do not draw up the knot. Continue around once more
and then draw up the material from the original knot. Continue in
this way, each time reeving bights through two loops and always
having two loops ready to stick through at the next operation.
To make the same on a spool having two pegs or pins. Start with a
Tom Fool’s Knot, then wrap the yarn two turns around the pegs
above the Tom Fool’s Knot. This gives three bights at each peg. Lift
the bottom loop over the top of the peg and cast off on the inside.
This leaves not less than two bights at any time around each peg.
2880. Three-Loop (Six-Sided) Sinnet. Make exactly as described
for Loop Sinnet #2878, but, when tied on a spool, three pegs are
employed. Start by making two turns about the pegs, then proceed
to work each peg in regular rotation as before. To tie in hand, use
three loops and tie in the manner described for #2878.
2881. Three-Loop (Six-Sided) Sinnet, doubled. This is doubled
the same as #2879.
2882. Four-Loop (Eight-Sided) Sinnet is the largest that I have
seen tied in hand without employing a spool. Even larger sizes of the
same sort present no manual difficulties but they tend to become
hollow. To start this on a spool, make two complete turns around
the four pins. Then work as already described.
[ 474 1
CHAIN AND CROWN SINNETS
2883. This illustrates the Four-Peg or Loop Knot doubled. Start
as # 2882 , but with three turns around the pegs, and work in the
manner described for # 2879 .
2884. A Spool Sinnet that is made with one cord less than the
number of pegs and is worked counterclockwise. Tie the ends to-
gether and arrange as pictured. Note that the bottom cord has turned
two pegs. Lift the right bottom loop over the top of the peg and cast
off to the center; next work the upper right peg, leading the cord
from peg 3 , above the bight that is already at 2 . Lift this bight and
cast it off over the top of the peg. Rotate the apparatus clockwise
ninety degrees and lead the next cord likewise and cast off the bot-
tom loop over the top of the peg. Continue to rotate the apparatus
clockwise, working each cord in rotation. In appearance, this is about
the same as a sinnet of one strand, around four pins (# 2882 ), but it is
a little fuller and it has the advantage of allowing several colors to be
used if they are wanted.
2885. This shows the sam^ method doubled, employing three
pegs and two cords only.
2886. A Spool Sinnet employing one more cord than the num-
ber of pegs. The strands are led clockwise and the sinnet also is
worked clockwise , the apparatus being rotated counterclockwise .
With three pins this will admit of the employment of four different
colors. It may be made double if wished. The cord marked 1 is
the first to be worked.
2887. The same method may be worked with two pegs and three
strands. This may be made on a fork and will give three colors, the
cross section being square.
The cross-sectional shapes of the Loop Sinnets are quite as well
defined as the cross sections of the Platted Sinnets which are to
follow.
2888. An Eight-Sided Loop Sinnet of two strands is more com-
pact than the Single-Strand Eight^Sided Sinnet (#2882) of similar
aspect. Each peg is worked in turn counterclockwise, the cord each
time being led from the opposite peg.
2889. A Square Sinnet of four pegs made with round turns in-
stead of loops. Note that there are the same number of sides in the
completed sinnet as there are pegs; the previous Spool Sinnets have
had twice as many sides as pegs. This sinnet was first shown me by
Dean Longfellow: it is described in Volume III of Emmanuel Bocher’s
book on needlework. A considerable number of sinnets are to be
found in this work, but most of them are limited to the transposi-
tion of two strands at each move. In general, they savor somewhat
of crochet and interior decoration, lacking the crispness and severity
that is characteristic of sailors’ work. This is to be expected, consid-
ering the purpose of the book, but it does not apply to all of the
sinnets that are included.
To make: Proceed as in # 2878 , except that a round turn is taken
in passing each pin. The cord is led rather loosely to the left, and the
spool is rotated counterclockwise.
[475]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2890. This sinnet, which was suggested by the foregoing, is a most
successful Equilateral Triangular Sinnet of one strand. The
drawing illustrates it made with Single Hitches, but this has no
advantages over making it with round turns, as shown in #2889. If
doubled, the sinnet loses some of its distinction. The illustration por-
trays one side only.
2891. A Diamond Cross-Section Spool Sinnet. Start with a Tom
Fool’s Knot, thereafter pass each peg with a belaying-pin turn (fig-
ure-eight or S turn). Hold the apparatus, without shifting, in the po-
sition depicted (do not rotate), lift the cord over and cast off inside
the pins alternately. The spool pictured here is the wooden plug
from one end of a roll of paper; one may be secured in almost any
shop that uses wrapping paper.
2892. A sinnet somewhat similar to the one just shown may be
made by employing a scries of identical hitches. The apparatus may
be rotated in the direction found more convenient, when onlv two
pins or pegs are employed. Generally I have found a counterclock-
wise direction the easier, but the reverse will probably suit the left-
handed person better.
2893. If alternating left and right hitches are taken with the single
strand a sinnet somewhat similar in appearance to #2894 results, but
the latter has three strands.
2894. A sinnet of two loops and three cords, taken from the 38th
Annual Report of the Bureau of American Ethnology. There are
several examples of Loop Sinnets given in an article on the arts and
crafts of the Guiana Indians. For the most part they are not sym-
metrical. In the description of this particular sinnet the loops are
held on the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. But it may easily
be made on a spool. Three cords of equal length are tied together.
Nooses are made in two of them close to the knotted end and these
are put over the pegs on the spool. The third cord is placed between
the two knotted ones at the front. Lead the unengaged end to the
back and then to the right around the right pin; then lift the loop
(Noose) and cast off over the pin. The cord that has just been cast
off is next led to the back and counterclockwise around the left pin,
and the loop on that pin is lifted and cast off over the newly arrived
cord and the pin. There is always one unengaged cord at the front
center ready to be used and this is always the strand to be worked.
It is carried to the back across the center of the structure, and then
around one of the two pins which are worked alternately.
[ 476 1
CHAIN AND CROWN SINNETS
2895. The remaining Loop Sinnets are made in hand. The present
one is the only sinnet of distinctive equilateral triangular cross sec-
tion that I have ever seen, except those that I have made myself. This
is of a loose texture which suggests crochet, and I imagine that it is
made with a hook.
I have made it upside down on a spool of two pins. The loops are
stuck toward the center instead of outward. To make: Start with a
Tom Fool’s Knot. The working end of cord is led to the right, and
the structure is turned clockwise. Successive hitches are stuck as
shown. Exercise great care in tightening the loops and employ a
soft cord.
2896. Idiot’s Delight is tied with a single loop and two cords.
Arrange as in the left drawing with the center of the material over
a hook or nail. Stick the left forefinger through the single loop and
withdraw a short loop, pulling it tightly. Through this loop insert
the right forefinger and withdraw a short loop from the left cord
in similar manner. Pull this tight and continue to alternate until suffi-
cient sinnet is made. Note that each time the forefinger is inserted
through the loop it is put under the part that leads to the working
end. Made in this way, the sinnet will be almost round when pulled
up carefully. If made in large cord, the surplus material will have to
be worked out. But in small, smooth material it will be sufficient to
pull it tight after each move.
2897. This is almost the same sinnet structurally but it has a dif-
ferent character. On one side (the left side in this case) the left
finger is inserted over instead of under the part of the loop leading
to the working end of the cord. The other side is entered as in the
previous sinnet. Worked in this way, the resulting cord is very much
flattened.
2898. Idiot’s Delight may be doubled successfully. Instead of
sticking a loop through a single bight it is stuck through one bight
and around the next and left well extended. Pin it out on the pro-
jection board when you first attempt it and work the sinnet upward
or away from you.
2899. An easier way to double the sinnet, presenting quite a dif-
ferent appearance, is to stick each loop through two bights, leaving
the end of the loop well projected. This sinnet builds rapidly and is
not hard to work.
2 . 89 ^
[ 477 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2900. A sinnet of three strands and one loop. Revolve the sinner
clockwise, stick a bight from each strand in turn. After the bight is
stuck the previous bight is tightened around it, and then a bight from
the next strand ahead is shoved through the new bight.
2901. With four strands the sinnet is made in the same manner.
The four strands are tied together and a hitch or Noose formed in
one. After the bight of the next strand to the right is stuck through
this the first loop is drawn up and tightened and the sinnet continued.
2902. An irregular Triangular Spool Sinnet from Bocher. It is
effective and pleasing. Two of the sides are alike. There are two
strands and but one loop in evidence at one time. Middle the cord
and make a Noose at the center, arrange as in the illustration and
lead a bight from each cord in alternation up through the other loop.
The two strands are worked in the same manner, the loop has the
same face up and both ends are always on the left side.
2903. This is a crocheting stitch from Caulfield and Saward’s Dic-
tionary of Needlework , where it is termed “double foundation.” Com-
mence with a Tom Fool’s Knot and stick a loop of the working
end from the left through both loops of the knot. Then take another
loop from the working end and lead it to the right, tuck it forward
through the bight that lies between the two loops of the original
Tom Fool’s Knot and through the last-laid loop at the right. It
should be led exactly as pictured, after which the previous bight or
loop should be tightened, and another one added in exactly the same
way.
2904. This sinnet was accidentally discovered while working foi
something quite different, an unusual event. The method is so obvi-
ous that it would be strange if it has not been made before. The cross
section is a neat oblong and is the only Loop Sinnet I know of that
shape. Single bights from the left and right sides are stuck alternately
through both loops, and the second loop that was stuck through is
tightened before the bight is stuck from the other side.
The narrow dimension of the oblong is lengthwise of the two
loops, which is rather unexpected.
This completes the Chain or Loop Sinnets and brings us to the
Crown Sinnets. A Crown is a knot of a number of strands in which
each strand in regular turn passes over an adjacent strand and under
the bight of another. A Half Knot of two strands is the smallest
Crown possible.
In the upper left corner of the next page is illustrated a Right Half
Knot and in the upper right corner of the page is illustrated a Left
Half Knot. This is in agreement with the Crowns shown in # 2911 ,
# 291 2 , and # 291 3 .
2905. A Crown of two strands, made of alternating Left and
Right Half Knots. This is often used on a decorative cord and it
CHAIN AND CROWN SINNETS
illustrates the way Half Knots or Two-Strand Crowns are made,
two of them forming a Square or Reef Knot which separates each
two links of the sinnet.
2906. Sinnet of square knotting. This is the same as the previous
sinnet but with all the parts drawn together. It bears a close rela-
tionship to the Solomon Bars in macrame but it lacks the inert
foundation cords which pass lengthwise through the latter (see
# 2496 ).
2907. A series of identical Half Knots of two strands makes a
Crown Sinnet of two strands, the surface of which helixes to re-
semble quite strongly a plain-laid rope.
2908. With four strands worked alternately in pairs, and Left and
Right Half Knots tied alternately, the resulting sinnet is square.
The same face is kept constantly toward you, as you work.
2909. Four strands worked alternately in pairs and tied in identical
Half Knots make a bulkier Round Sinnet than # 2907 .
2910. An Eight-Strand Half Knotted Sinnet. Seize the strands
and right half knot the opposite strands of two parallel pairs. Then
left half knot the other two parallel pairs and continue to alternate.
Keep the same side of the sinnet constantly toward you while you
work.
2911. A Crown Sinnet of three strands. Crown in one direction,
in this case right-handed. Lay one strand to the right in front of the
next strand to the right. Lay that strand tightly over the end of the
first-laid strand and in front of the next strand. Lay the third strand
over the end of the second strand and stick it through the bight left
by the first-laid strand. Draw all strands tight. This forms what is
termed a Single Crown. The sinnet is built up of successive Crowns
exactly like the one just described. The success of these sinnets de-
pends on drawing up the Crowns evenly.
2912. Four-Strand Crown Sinnet is made in the same way as the
oing.
2913. Five- and Six-Strand Crown Sinnets are made in the same
way.
The sinnet may be made with even more strands if a core is used,
six being about the limit when there is no core.
2914. With three strands make alternate Right and Left Crowns.
The result is roughly triangular.
2915. 2916. Sinnets of four and five strands, made with alternate
Right and Left Crowns.
The above sinnets from #2908 to #2916 are round, with the ex-
ception of # 2914 .
' 479 ]
fHE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2917. Crown Sinnets are often made of flat thongs (leather und
woven shoelaces). Sinnet watch guards and bracelets appear periodi-
cally, and are generally made by the amateur, while umbrella guards,
leashes and dog collars are commercial products shown in Chapter
41. When made of flat material, these are almost invariably of
reverse cr overling (the first Crown being to the right, the second to
the left). The simplest employed is the regular four-strand (#2915),
three strands not being very satisfactory. Flat fabric shoestrings may
be used when no thongs are handy. The first diagram shows the
bottom of the initial Crown. Middle the strands, cross them as shown
in this diagram, and crown them. Now, holding the first knot bot-
tom up, as pictured, cover the initial crossing with a second Crown
as indicated by the arrows. Continue, with the same side up, to build
the sinnet with alternate Left and Right Crowns.
2918. An Oblong Cross-Section, Crown-and-Reverse Sinnet is
made in the same manner. The single thong which goes lengthwise
must be about forty per cent longer than the other two. If all the
thongs are drawn up with equal tension this will be very handsome.
If desired, two more crossing cords may be added, which will double
the width of the sinnet.
2919. This Crown diagram, shown in Alston’s Seamanship , for
finishing off a fender, makes a very large and handsome cube if,
after tying alternately, left and right, at the proper length, the ends
of the strands are pointed and tucked back into the structure.
2920. This shows Alston’s Crown worked into a sinnet by crown-
ing first to the left and then to the right. If crowned continuously in
one direction, a large Round Sinnet would result.
The remaining sinnets on this page are best made in cord; either
banding or fishline will serve.
2921. The diagram shown here will make a sinnet that is more or
less octagonal. It is worked in the same manner as the others but it
may also be tied continuously with a Right Crown if desired, in
which case it will be round. Compare with #2930.
2922. A decided Ellipse, but to hold this shape it must be made
with Reverse Crown. If tied with a continuous crowning to the
right, it will be round.
2923. A rather full Ellipse with six strands, the diagram to be
worked with Crown and Reverse Crown.
[ 4 So ]
CHAIN AND CROWN SINNETS
Except for page 486 , most of the remaining sinnets of this chapter
are original. Captain Charles W. Smith is responsible for # 2931 .
There are several well-known ones on pages 484 and 485 .
2924. A roughly triangular Reverse Crown Sinnet. If rolled
underfoot, the cross section will be practically round. It is not par-
ticularly distinguished, but, as it requires only six strands to work,
it is quite practical. The advantage of this series of Crown Sinnets
is that large sinnets of differing forms, that do not distort, may be
made with very few strands. Moreover, while being worked, they
may be laid aside to be picked up later without danger of raveling
or untying. The Platted Sinnets of the next chapter, w T hen put
down before completion, often prove confusing to pick up again.
2925. An Equilateral Triangular Reverse Crown Sinnet. This
is very handsome. It should be worked snug, but not hove on, as
this will destroy its regularity. If tied with right crowning only, it
gives a Round Sinnet with a handsome helixed surface.
2926. A Reversed Parallel Crown Triangle. This was one of
the earliest successful Equilateral Triangular Sinnets to be made.
It is not at all bad-looking and, if pulled up very carefully, the sides
will have no bulge.
2927. 2928. A Square Parallel-Strand Reverse Crown Sinnet
and a Five-Sided Sinnet of the same sort as the last. These are both
exceedingly practical and the latter is one of the most clear-cut of
all Five-Sided Sinnets.
2929. This is made on the same diagram as #2924 but the strands
that form the center triangle of the diagram pass over two and under
two and the illustration shows the sinnet crowned constantly to the
right. This makes a good Round Sinnet that draws up more easily
than # 2924 .
2930. This shows a similar diagram form tied with reverse crown-
ing. Most of these may be tied satisfactorily with the Crown con-
stantly revolving in the same direction, in which case, however, they
all become approximately round. But by reverse crowning they
maintain very closely their diagram shape. This diagram is the same
as #2921 but the strands that pass the center pass over two and under
two. For that reason the sinnet is easier to make and easier to draw
up than the other. In none of the sinnets of this series that have so
far been given are cores required.
[ 481 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2931. The method of continuous (helical) crowning was shown
to me by Captain Charles W. Smith. It does not appear to be
recorded in seamanship books although the mechanical sash cord
braider employs it.
The method requires not less than five strands. Three strands
worked in this way will give ordinary plain-laid rope; four strands
will make a two-strand left-hand rope, with two yarns to each
strand* With five strands a sinnet outwardly resembling Four-
Strand Crown Sinnet #2912 is made. The sinnet builds very much
faster than the knotted variety, but it must be made very snugly
indeed as it stretches considerably. The third sketch illustrates the
sinnet of five strands, completed, and the fourth sketch shows the
same sinnet after being stretched. With more than seven strands the
use of a core is indicated. Six strands requires no core and is a prac-
tical size.
The method is similar to the sailor’s way of making a punch mat
(#2963) which will be shown in the next chapter.
To make: Secure five strands with a Constrictor Knot (#1249)
with the ends uppermost. Grip any two adjacent strands and impart
a hard right-hand twist, or half turn, to the right. Drop the first
strand and engage the next one to the right in exactly the same
manner. Continue dropping the earlier strand and picking up the
next to the right before each twist, and at each operation twist the
two strands clockwise until the next one is in position. The motion
in twisting strands is much the same as that employed in driving a
wood screw with a common screw driver and, if continued long
enough, is liable to cause sore fingers.
2932. The same, by another technique. Seize six or seven strands.
Upend one strand only and hold the rest in the grasp of the left hand.
Bring the upright end down into the grasp of the hand, crossing
over the next strand to the right as you do so. Then extend the
strand that Was crossed. Pull on the new strand strongly, then cross
that one over the next strand to the right, grasp it in hand and extend
the strand just crossed. Continue until sufficient sinnet is made.
If a core is employed, this is about the quickest way of making
a covering.
2933. A method of making a similar Double Sinnet. Take eight
or nine strands and seize them. Upend two strands and hold the rest
in the grasp of the hand. Take the left upstanding strand, bring it
to the right in back of its sister strand and cross it over the next
downhanging strand to the right. Extend the strand that was just
crossed. Take the left upstanding strand and repeat. Exercise care
not to extend by mistake the end that was last laid down. Except for
this, there is little opportunity to go wrong. If a core is used the core
may be secured aloft.
[ 4 82 1
CHAIN AND CROWN SINNETS
2934. To make a parallel Crown Sinnet by the helical method.
The upper drawing shows an outside circuit of the strands at
the upper edge of the sinnet. Take eight strands, extend two alter-
nate strands and hold the rest in the grasp of the hand. Move the
right member of the pair to the right, crossing one downhanging
strand, and extend the strand that was just crossed. Take the strand
that was the left-hand one of the original pair, pass it behind the
strand that was last extended and cross the next downhanging
strand. Extend the strand that was just crossed. Continue to work the
new pair just as the first pair was worked. The right member of the
pair is moved first and crosses the first adjacent downhanging strand,
the left strand is then passed in back of the newly extended strand
and continues until it has crossed over the next adjacent downhang-
ing strand. Take care not to extend a strand that has just been turned
down.
2935. This sinnet is made with ten strands; in cross section it is
similar to # 2930 , of eight strands, which does not helix. It is made in
exactly the same way as # 2934 . The method may be used with
twelve strands, no core being required, but with fourteen strands
a core is indicated.
2936. A Round Crown Sinnet with two sets of strands. Make
with a total of either six or eight strands. Arrange the strands in two
equal sets, and crown jhe sets alternately to the right. This makes a
firm and handsome sinnet. Tie knots in the ends of one set of strands,
for purposes of identification, extend one set and drop the other set
into the grasp of the hand. Crown the four uppermost strands. Then
lift the lower set of strands and crown them above the first knot.
Next arrange the lead of the first-made Crown so that each end
passes inside two strands of the upper knot.
2937. With six or eight strands tie this knot the same as the fore-
going, except that the lead of the lower knot passes inside one strand
of the upper knot instead of two strands.
2938. A Round Crown-and-Reverse Sinnet with two sets of
opposed strands. One set is crowned to the right and the other set
to the left. The lead in the lower Crown is from one side to an ad-
joining side, not across the structure.
2939. A Twelve-Strand Sinnet made with three sets of crowns,
which are crowned alternately right and left. As the number of
sets is odd, each set of strands is itself crowned alternately left and
right. Knot the ends of the strands of two of the sets differently
to assist in identification, an Overhand in one set, a Figure-Eight in
the other. Lift four bottom strands up to the left of the next oppos-
ing strands and crown them to the right, then lift the next four
bottom strands up to the right of the opposing strands and crown
them to the left. Continue alternating in the same manner. This
bulks larger than #2938 but has about the same characteristics. It
is large, firm and handsome.
2<53A
[ 483 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2940. Wall Sinnet. This is sometimes seen, but stretches so
easily that it is scarcely practical unless it has a core. An old sample
of this with a core is shown on the becket of the second bag lanyard,
among the frontispieces.
2941. This shows the sinnet with a single strand serving as core.
This will take care of the stretch, but all the strain is on the core.
2942. With two groups of strands alternately walled the sinnet
is larger, handsomer, stronger and has little tendency to stretch.
2943. A netting needle is a practical tool for making a sinnet that
builds very rapidly. But it may be tied either with the netting needle
or with the fingers alone. The needle is preferable if any consider-
able length is to be made, or if the material is small. Sew over and
over, or under and under, through the last loop made, and draw
up carefully and evenly. The result is a nicely rounded helix.
2944. The same sinnet, with the needle thrust through two loops
each time instead of one, bulks larger and has a better appearance.
2945. The same sinnet with the needle thrust through three loops
at each operation. This would seem to be about the practical limit
of the sinnet, which, in this size, resembles left-laid rope. Draw up
the next to the last stitch after each passage.
2946. A Figure-Eight Chain. This does not seem to have much
merit, but it is always given in books on the subject. A netting
needle is the best tool for the purpose. Start with the top of the
design and tuck through the bottom bights of the figure eights al-
ternately down through the left bight and up through the right
bight.
2947. The same diagram is perhaps more often worked down
through the right and down through the left, which makes a regular
over-one-and-under-one design.
2948. An elaboration of the Figure-Eight design makes an effec-
tive Flat Sinnet. This should be done with a netting needle and
drawn up after each stitch. The cycle of this is down through two
bights and down through two other bights.
2949. A Round Sinnet may be made on the same diagram. The
cord is led down through two bights on the right and up through
two bights on the left. The resulting sinnet superficially resembles
#2944.
!. 4 8 4 ]
CHAIN AND CROWN SINNETS
2950. Twist braid, sometimes called trumpet cord and bugle cord.
This is frequently seen in trimmings of one sort and another and
often is used as a shortening on window-shade pulls. There are two
different starts for this sinnet. Make either an Overhand Knot
(illustrated) or a Figure-Eight Knot. With these two all possible
lengths may be made. A sinnet is completed each time the end of the
strand is stuck through the bottom bight.
The ordinary Three-Strand Plat is the basic form of both
French and Flat Sinnet and either of these sinnets may be worked
in a single cord in this manner with any desired odd number of
leads. For further sinnets of both sorts see page 95 in the chapter on
single-strand lanyards and also see mats in Chapter 30.
2951. A twist braid based on a Flat Sinnet of seven leads. The
strands are arranged as shown, and are platted as described for Flat
Sinnet in the next chapter. The sinaet may also be made with five
strands. A sinnet is completed each time the end of the strand is led
to the left lower corner.
2952. A Round Twist Sinnet based on Four-Strand Square or
Round Sinnet. Follow the diagrams in rotation to make this one.
A sinnet is completed each time both ends are brought through the
same bight in opposite directions. When the sinnet has been faired
the bight at the bottom is withdrawn and the surplus material
worked out to the end of the strand.
2953. Round Twist Sinnet based on Six-Strand Round Sinnet.
Arrange the strand as in the lower left diagram, then plat as indi-
cated by the arrow, alternately from each side, withdrawing the
two ends from time to time. The method is further described as
#3011. When the two ends in the left diagram have each made one
more diagonal and the two loops are disentangled, proceed to com-
plete the arrangement of the strands that is shown in the bottom
right diagram and work up into a snug braid as shown in the
upper drawing of the knot. This is by no means a simple accom-
plishment, and it may prove easier for a beginner to pin the knot out
on a board directly as in the right lower diagram. But in this case
it becomes a knot and automatically ceases to be a sinnet. Aside
from being a handsome Twist Sinnet, this makes a distinctive
Button Knot.
[ 485 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2954. Twist braid may be made in a single piece of leather and
is quite similar to #2950. A leather strap is slit twice so that it has
three equal lengthwise parts in the center length, while the ends
remain uncut. Soak the leather in warm water before proceeding
with the braid.
Make a very tight Three-Strand Plat in the upper end, starting
with the left strand and moving left and right strands alternately.
It will be found that a similar but reversed plat forms in the lower
end, and if the two ends are jerked sufficiently the two compen-
sating plats will ravel and disappear.
The upper plat should be held firmly in one hand while the lower
plat is worked out in the manner indicated in the second sketch. The
plat may be made in any length that is a multiple of six moves. The
strands are generally kept the same side up at the edges so that the
grain of the leather will remain uppermost.
2955. Theoretically Flat Sinnet, with any odd number of strands,
may be worked into twist braid in the way first described, but the
practical limit is perhaps five, or at most seven, leads. A section of
sinnet is completed each time a number of moves to the center has
been made that is twice the number of the strands employed; this will
bring all strands back to their original positions. Each time that
this is done the opposing plat at the bottom should be raveled out
before adding further to the length. To ravel, always pass the
lower end through the lower part of the plat as illustrated in #2954.
The illustration for this plat (#2955) shows five strands, turned over
each time they pass an edge. This, of course, will not give a pleasing
appearance unless the split side of the leather is well finished.
2956. A slit leather plat is made by reeving the two ends of a
strap alternately through slits in the opposing end. This is often
seen in the leather shops but may easily be made at home.
2957. Link Sinnet. As links are best cut out with a stamp, the
sinnet generally is commercially made. This and #2956 are found on
l u gg a g e ta g s > wrist straps, dog collars, leashes and such commodities.
2958. This shows a Western bridle tassel which closely resembles
a plat. But it is made by reeving the ends of two middled rawhide
thongs through a series of evenly spaced slots. The ends are fringed.
A number of knotted cords that suggest sinnets will be found in
the chapters on macrame (32), mats (30), and fancy knots (31). A
Long Diamond of two or more strands may be considered platting,
and of course a Long Turk’s-Head is of a very similar nature.
[486 )
CHAPTER 38: PLAT SINNETS
. . . they had platted a crown of thorns . . .
Matthew XXVII: 29
About i860 hemp signal halyards, braided by machinery, are
mentioned in seamanship books. The product was then called
“sinnet lines.” Before that time Square Sinnet for steam gaskets was
made by hand. On shipboard sinnet has been used for a great variety
of purposes and, except for signal halyards and log and lead lines,
is still being made by hand.
Platted lines have little or no torsion. Used as belting, they have
an excellent “cling,” and hard-platted sinnets give excellent surface
wear. Decorative plats are employed in “hangings” and upholstery,
in hat and dress trimming. Shoestrings, curtain cords, bell pulls,
electric-light pulls and fishline are of sinnet and are now machine-
made. In Chapter 41 are many examples of the uses to which hand-
made sinnets are put. Used in combination with Lanyard Knots,
sinnets have decorative possibilities that so far have been recognized
only by the sailor. By dropping out strands at intervals, with which
knots are to be tied, a lanyard is given a nice taper.
The usual way of starting a sinnet is to- bind the required number
of strands together and to begin at once to plat. Later the uneven
beginning is either straightened out or cut off.
In most sinnets allow a length of strand about forty per cent
greater than the length of the projected sinnet.
If strands are very long, wind them around the hand as #3085
and then snap elastic bands around them. If carefully wound in this
way, when additional length is required, it may be pulled out with-
out disturbing the elastic band.
[ 487 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2959. Two strands platted over a one-cord foundation. This is
reminiscent of square knotting, being built over a foundation, but
examination will show that the strands are actually platted around
the cord instead of being knotted. The outer or top strands are
worked alternately, first from one side, then the other.
2960. This is similar to the last but has two foundation strands.
The outer or top strands are worked alternately from first one side
and then the other in regular over-and-under sequence, while the
foundation strands are inactive.
2961. A Three-Strand Plat. The foundation consists of two
strands and there is but one filler or working strand. Start with the
filler in the center and lead all strands to the center position as in
#2965, but the sequence is quite different. Lead the left strand to
center (a foundation strand); next lead the left to center (the filler);
follow with the right to center (a foundation strand); and then the
right to center (the filler). Plat very firmly and from time to time
crowd back the filler so that the foundation is completely covered.
The filler strand is at least five or six times longer than the founda-
tion cords.
2962. Plat, Hat or Straw Sinnet. This is the way in which the
first “sailor hats” were made at sea, of straw, or of split palmetto
leaf. At each change of direction the straw is folded the other side
up. Be careful to draw up snugly and neatly before creasing the
edges. Arrange as ia the first illustration and follow the sequence
of moves indicated in the illustration. To make the hat, start with
Button #2590 and sew the sinnet around it spirally.
2963. A punch or wrought mat. A narrow punch mat makes a
Flat Sinnet that is often used in chafing gear. An even number of
single strands are hung over a foundation rope that is stretched taut
between two pins. All the strands in this sinnet continue through-
out to hold their original positions. Since the strands are “laid up”
with each other— that is to say, a slight individual twist is imparted
to eachy which is contrary to the way they are twisted together—
they have little tendency to untwist. The two upper left strands are
laid up together right-handed, one turn, and are knotted together
each time they have been worked. Having laid up the first pair, the
second pair (3 and 4) are laid up together in the same way. Then
the left strand of the second group (3) is laid up one complete turn
with the right strand of the first group (2) and then 1 and 2 are again
laid up together one turn. Then 5 and 6 are treated in the same
way. After laying two strands together the left one of the pair is
always engaged with the next strand to the left. In this way the
sinnet is built up in a series of long diagonals from right to left, the
back and front being identical. The finished appearance is also
shown as #3494.
2964. A woven or sword mat. Ashore this is used for girths in
horse harness. At sea this is made on a rough loom as illustrated.
Originally the sword was a flat, pointed, swordlike stick used to
[488]
PLAT SINNETS
open the warpJor each strand of filler, after which the sword ham-
mered the filler into place. The shuttle was generally a ball or
hank, or else a large homemade netting needle consisting of a flat
stick deeply notched at each end. A sword is still used in beating
back the filler (see also #3493).
2965. Flat, English, Ordinary or Common Sinnet is the plat or
braid seen in schoolgirl pigtails. It is made of three strands and is the
simplest possible plat.
To make: Secure three strands together and make the end fast
to a hook or nail. Hold two strands in the right hand and one in the
left. Bring the outer right strand down across its sister strand and lay
it parallel to and below the single left strand. Now bring the upper
left strand down across its sister strand and lay it parallel to and
below the single right strand. Repeat alternately.
2966. Possibly a quieker but less usual way- to make this plat is
to pass the strands at the back, employing only the first and second
fingers and the thumbs.
2967. With more than three strands it is well to secure the strands
in a straight line. Two pencils and two elastic bands are sufficient
apparatus. Flat Sinnet may be made with any odd number of
strands in the way already described. The outer strands are moved
alternately, and the tension is correctly and evenly arranged as each
strand is passed.
2968. Seven strands is about the practical limit of the method.
Beyond that there is difficulty in keeping it even. Even if a degree
of success is achieved, a very little rough treatment will cause it to
distort.
2969. Unless for some special purpose, this method is usually
limited to an odd number of strands, as with an even number of
strands the sinnet is unsymmetrical. But I have seen the braid, made
as if with three strands in the left hand and one in the right hand,
as here pictured, used as edging on theater-seat upholstery. Of
course it was machine-made.
2970. If made of flat thongs, straw or shoestrings, the strands
may be turned over at each edge. This will result in a sinnet with
straight even edges.
2971. If the same method of turning edges is applied where units
of two or three parallel round cords are used, instead of single
strands, a distinctive sinnet results.
2972. In this sinnet the strands are double and parallel. The effect
is very different from the last, in which the edges were turned.
2973. The number of sinnets that are possible with three strands
only seem very limited. Three are given on these two facing pages.
2974. With four strands the horizon is somewhat widened.
2975. This sinnet is of interest as it has the same diagram form as
#2972, but the strands, instead of being parallel in pairs, are all laid
alternately over one and under one.
¥
2.9 67
[ 4 8 9 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2976. French Sinnet is a flat plat in which the strands have a
regular over-one-and-under-one weave. The French call it “Tresse
Anglaise.” As this has occasionally been translated literally in Eng-
lish books, it has caused some confusion. French Sinnet is generally
tied with an odd number of strands but may be tied quite as satis-
factorily with an even number. In working it the strands are cus-
tomarily divided so that if there is an odd one it is placed with the
group that is held in the left hand.
French Sinnet (i). The example given here is of seven strands.
With four strands in the left hand, take the upper left strand and lead
it diagonally down to the center, crossing its three sister strands alter-
nately under, over and under. It has now become the lowest member
of the right-hand group. Next take the upper member of the right-
hand group (which now has four strands) and lead it to the left in
the same order as before, under one, over one, under one. Repeat
these two operations until sufficient sinnet is made.
2977. Six-Strand French Sinnet with three strands in the left
hand and three in the right. Lead the top left strand to the center
over one and under one. Follow with the top right strand under
one, over one and under one, and repeat from the start.
2978. Double French Sinnet. This drawing illustrates a French
Sinnet of five leads platted with doubled strands, ten in all.
2979. French Sinnet (2). In the braid and trimming trades
ashore a different technique from #2976 is used, which gives a
different character to the product, although it is structurally the
same. All the strands are held in the left hand and only the top
right strand is worked. This strand is led almost horizontally across
all the other strands, in alternate over-and-under sequence. Then
the next top right strand is treated likewise, and the process con-
tinued. The much shorter diagonal of the right strands is responsible
for the changed appearance.
2980. The texture of sinnets based on Flat and French Sinnets
has a range of possibilities analogous to weaving and the range
widens rapidly as the number of the strands is increased. But the
comparative narrowness of the sinnet limits the size of the patterns
employed.
With eight strands (five in the left hand) lead the top left strand
under three, and over one to the center. Then lead the top right
strand over three to the center. Repeat the two movements.
2981. Six strands (three in the left hand). Lead the left strand
over one and under one. Lead the right strand under one and over
two. Repeat.
2982. Seven strands (five in the left hand). Move the left under
three, over one. Move the right under one, over one. Repeat.
2983. Seven strands (four in left hand). Move left outer strand
under two, over one, move right strand under two, over one. Repeat
[ 490 ]
PLAT SINNETS
2984. Seven strands (five in left hand). Move left strand under
two, over two to center. Move right strand over two. Repeat the
two movements.
2985. Nine strands (five strands in left hand). Move left strand
under two, over two; move right strand the same.
2986. An Eleven-Strand Sinnet (six held in the left hand). Move
left strand under two, over three to center. Move right strand the
same.
2987. Eleven-Strand Sinnet (six held in left hand). Move left
strand under two, over two, under one. Move right strand the same.
2988. A Five-Strand French Sinnet suggested by Captain Charles
Smith’s Square Sinnet (#3017, #3018). Hold three strands in the
left hand. Lead left strand over two to center. ( 1 ). Lead right strand
over two to center. ( 2 ) . Lead left strand under two to center. Lead
right strand under two to center. Repeat the four moves from the
start. As this requires no tucking under and over, it builds very
rapidly. But as it is folded in the center lengthwise, it must be
folded back and creased reversely in order to flatten it out.
2989. Six-Strand Duplex Sinnet. Two superimposed Three-
Strand Plats can be made simultaneously. Four strands are held in
the left hand. Lead the left strand over three to center. Lead right
strand over two to center. Lead left strand under three to center.
Lead right strand wider two to center. Repeat from the beginning.
This method may be carried farther with different numbers of
strands differently divided. Six strands equally divided and worked
in the same way gives a sinnet the same as #3003.
2990. The sinnets that have just been described have all had a
single cycle for each set of diagonals. The remaining Flat Sinnets
of this chapter have two cycles for each set of diagonals, with the
exception of #2998, which has three for each set of diagonals. That
is, each of these sinnets is made with either four or six distinct
movements.
A Nine-Strand Twill Sinnet (live strands in the left hand).
Lead first the left and then the right upper strand under one,
over three. Follow this, first left and then right, under two, over
two. Then repeat from the start. Work carefully and very firmly.
2991. A Ten-Strand Twill Sinnet (five strands in the left hand).
Although less individual, perhaps, than the last, this holds its shape
better. Lead the left strand over two and under two. Lead the right
strand over two, under two, and over one. Next lead the left strand
over two and under two, and lead the right strand over two and
under three.
Although banding has been recommended for general practice
work in these sinnets, when making them for practical use something
else will often be required. In small material nothing is superior to
fishline. For decorative purposes the colored cords mentioned on
page 20 will serve nicely. If a nicer material is needed it may be
found either in “notion” or “Oriental” shops. Small silk fishline is also
obtainable.
[ 491 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
2992. A Ten-Strand Twill Sinnet (hold five strands in the left
hand). Move the left upper strand over one, under three to center.
Move the right upper strand over one, under three, over one to
center. Move the left upper strand over one, under three, to center.
Move the right upper strand over one, under four, to center.
2993. A Four-Strand “Trick” Sinnet. Superficially this appears
to belong with the Twill Sinnets, and if it is made firmly and not
roughly used, its shortcomings will not be at once apparent. But
actually it does not “jell.” To expose its weakness, grasp the two ends
and give a series of sharp jerks and somewhere in its length will
appear a separation of strands. Grasp the two halves at this point
and pull them strongly apart and the sinnet at once resolves itself
into two separate two-strand ropes with opposite lays.
To make: With three strands in the left hand, lead the left upper
strand to the center, then at once lead the next left upper strand to
the center parallel with the first. Lead the right upper strand to the
center, and then at once lead the next right upper strand to the
center. Continue laying first two left, strands and then two right
strands one after the other.
Before this has been separated into two parts it is easily mistaken
for Six-Strand Sinnet (#2971).
2994. The remainder of the sinnets on this page are flat and have
a doubled edge. The present one of the series is so narrow, however,
that its cross section is oblong. It must be platted very firmly. Hav-
ing made certain that you have followed directions correctly, do
not feel concern about its success. Having made the desired length,
beat it well with a mallet first along its edge, then along the flat.
Finally its surfaces will appear as depicted in the center and right
diagrams.
To make: Take six strands (four in the left hand). First lead the
left strand over one, under two. Second, lead the right strand over
two. Third, lead the left strand under one, over mo. Fourth, lead
the right strand under two. Repeat from the beginning.
2995. A Seven -Strand Doubled-Edge Flat Sinnet (hold four
strands in the left hand). Lead the upper left strand over two, under
one. Lead the right upper strand under one, over two. Lead the left
upper strand under two, over one. Lead the right upper strand over
one, under two. Repeat.
2996. An Eight-Strand Doubled-Edge Flat Sinnet (hold five
strands in the left hand). Lead the left strand under one, over two,
under one to center. Lead the right strand under one, over two to
center. Lead the left strand over one, under two, over one to center.
Lead the right strand over one, under two to center.
2997. A Ten-Strand Doubled-Edge Flat Sinnet (hold six strands
in the left hand). Lead the left under two, over two, under one to
center. Lead the right under two, over two to center. Lead the left
over two, under two, over one to center. Lead the right over two,
under two to center.
2998. An Eleven-Strand Doubled-Edge Flat Sinnet (hold six
strands in the left hand). Lead the left upper strand under one,
over two, under one, over one. Lead the right upper strand under
[ 49 2 ]
PLAT SINNETS
two, over one, under two. Lead the left upper strand over one, un-
der one, over two, under one. Lead the right upper strand over one,
under two, over one, under one. Lead the left upper strand over
two, under one, over two. Lead the right upper strand under one,
over one, under two, over one. The visible parts on the face of this
sinnet pass regularly from the left, in a downward diagonal over
two and under one and from the right in a downward diagonal over
one and under two.
2999. Square Sinnet of four strands. Used for lanyards, whips,
whiplashes, quirts and leashes.
With strands of two colors, arranged as pictured, the two colors
helix around the sinnet, giving a barber-pole or candy-twist effect.
The sinnet is made in two movements.
First, take the top left strand, bring it around to the back of the
other strands and then from back to front between the opposing
strands. Finally lay it beside its sister strand into the lower position
at the left.
Second, take the right upper strand, bring it around to the back
of the other strands and then from back to front between the oppos-
ing strands. Finally lay it beside its sister strand into the lower
position at the right. In this size, this sinnet, although made by
the Square Sinnet method, is identical with Round Stnnet of four
strands.
3000. The same sinnet as the above with the colored strands
differently arranged. Two strands of the same color are held in each
hand. The colors in the sinnet alternate and a scaly effect is secured.
Roll this sinnet underfoot and it will be round; pound it thor-
oughly with a mallet, first one side, then the next adjacent side, and
it will be square. It is generally made by the Square method as the
Round Sinnet method (# 3021 ) is much slower.
3001. Eight-Strand Square Sinnet. One of the best known and
most used of the sinnets. Often a core is added and is rolled, under
pressure, to form a Round Sinnet. Arrange with four strands in
either hand. Like the Four-Strand Sinnet, this is made in two
movements. First, lead the upper left strand, bring it around in back
of its sister strands, and from back to front between the center
of the opposing strands, and then down parallel with its sister strands,
into the lowest position in its own group. Second, lead the right
upper strand around back of its sister strands and from back to front
between the center of the opposing strands and down parallel with
its sister strands into the lowest position in the group.
If two colors are employed (white and green) and one color is
held in the left hand, the" other color in the right, the resulting
sinnet will have four alternate-colored vertical stripes, one at each
edge.
If the colors are arranged so that the four top strands are alike the
sinnet will have belts of alternating color.
The strands may be arranged with the two top left strands green,
the bottom white, the two top right strands white, the bottom green.
Or the strands may be alternated on the left side and arranged either
the same or opposite on the right side. The results are all distinctive.
This is the sinnet that has always been used for steam gaskets, and
until comparatively recent years it was made by hand.
V) 9 9
3 0 00
[ 493 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3002
3003
3 o o4
30 05~
3 006
3002. Twelve-Strand Square Sinnet is sometimes seen. It bulks
larger than the Eight-Strand Square Sinnet, but it is neither so
firm nor so handsome. Sixteen-Strand or even Twenty-Strand
Square Sinnet can be made if desired, but they have little distinc-
tion. All of these can be made around a core and rolled into a round
form.
To make Twelve-Strand Sinnet, bring the upper strand of the
right set around back, up between the third and fourth opposing
strands and back into the lower position beside its sister strands. Do
likewise (reversely) with the upper strand of the left set, and repeat
these two operations alternately until the sinnet is the required
length.
3003. The following sinnets through #3014 are variations of the
Square method. The first four to be given are ordinarily termed
“Half Round.” Unless otherwise noted, the strands are equally
divided, and the directions for the two sides are the same but re-
versed. With six strands lead the upper left strand around back, for-
ward between the opposite bottom and second strand and then back,
beside and below its sister strands. Do likewise with the right upper
strand and then repeat from the beginning until sufficient sinnet is
made.
3004. A Half Round Sinnet of eight strands. Lead the upper left
strand around the back, then forward between opposite first and sec-
ond strands (counting from the bottom) and place it below its sister
strands. Do similarly with the right upper strand and then repeat
from the beginning.
3005. A Half Round Sinnet of ten strands. Lead the upper left
strand around the back, then forward between opposite second and
third strands (from the bottom) and place it below its sister strands.
Do similarly with the right strand and repeat from the beginning.
3006. A Half Round Sinnet of eight strands. Lead the upper left
strand around back, forward between the two center right strands,
then down again between the first and second strands (from the
bottom) and lay it beside and below its sister strands in the left-
hand group. Do likewise (reversely) with the upper right strand,
and repeat from the beginning.
3007. An Ellipse of eight strands. First, lead the upper left strand
around back, forward between the third and fourth strands (from
the bottom), then down between the second and third strands (from
the bottom) and lay beside and below its sister strands. Second, lead
3007
[ 494 ]
PLAT SINNETS
che upper right strand around the back, forward between center
strands, down between the first and second strands (from the bot-
tom) and lay beside and below its sister strands in the right-hand
group. Repeat from the beginning.
3008. A Six-Strand Ellipse. Lead the upper left strand around
back, and bring it forward between the second and third strands
(from the bottom), laying it beside and below its sister strands. Next
lead the right upper strand around back and bring it forward be-
tween the first and second strands from the bottom and lay beside
and below its sister strands. Repeat from the beginning.
3009. An Eight-Strand Ellipse. First, lead the left upper strand
around the back and bring it forward between the third and fourth
strands (from the bottom), laying it beside and below its sister
strands. Second, take the right upper strand around the back and
bring it forward between the first and second strands (from the
bottom), laying it beside and below its sister strands. Repeat these
two directions in alternation.
3010. A Ten-Strand Ellipse. First, lead the left upper strand
around the back and bring it forward between the third and fourth
strands (from the bottom), laying it beside and below its sister
strands. Second, take the right upper strand around the back and
bring it forward between the second and third strands (from the
bottom), laying it beside and below its sister strands. Repeat these
two directions alternately until sufficient sinnet has been made.
3011. Six-Strand Round Sinnet, by the Square Sinnet method.
Lead the left upper strand around the back, and forward between
the third and second strands (from the bottom), then down between
the first and second strands (from the bottom) and lay beside and
below its sister strands. Lead the right upper strand around the back
and forward between the first and second strands ( from the bottom)
and lay beside and below its sister strands. Repeat from the be-
ginning.
3012. Eight-Strand Round Sinnet may be made by the same
method but requires a core. It is impractical unless worked by two
men. Lead the left upper strand back, forward between three and
four, back between two and three, forward between one and two
and down beside and below its sister strands. Lead the upper right
strand similarly but reversely. Method #3022 will be found more
satisfactory.
3 008
30U
[ 495 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3013 3014-
3 0 \s 3 o 1 6
3013. Five-Strand Square Sinnet is made when five strands are
needed for a particular Lanyard Knot such as the Star Knot. With
three strands in the left hand lead the upper left strand back, around,
through and down over one strand. Lead the right upper strand
back, around, through and down over two strands. Much the same
result is obtained by passing over one strand only with both left and
right strands. Roll underfoot or between boards.
3014. Seven-Strand Square Sinnet is for the same purpose as the
above. Four strands are held in the left hand and three strands in the
right hand. The sinnet is made in two movements like the rest of
the sinnets given here. First, lead the upper left strand around in
back and then forward between the second and third strands from
the bottom and finally back parallel with its sister strands into the
lowest position of the group. Second, lead the right upper strand
around in back and forward between the center opposing strands
and then back parallel with its sister strands into the lowest position
of the group. Repeat these directions from the beginning, and roll
the sinnet thoroughly.
3015. Coachwhipping is made over stanchions and rails with two
or several parallel strands. Generally fishline is used. It is worked
as Square Sinnet #2999 but with two, sometimes three or even
four, strands as a unit, instead of one. Under some circumstances,
when the strands fail to cover the core or foundation, extra strands
are added with a sail needle.
3016. Six-Strand Coachwhipping. This is made as #301 1 but with
doubled, tripled or quadrupled strands. This sinnet is almost invari-
ably made with the aid of a “mate” or helper. “Mate” is the preferred
name; it comes from “boatswain’s mate.” Sometimes the sinnet is
made as #3011 and the strands are doubled or tripled with a needle
as in a Turk’s-Head. Coachwhipping is also made as Eight-Strand
Square Sinnet #3001 w f ith either doubled or tripled strands moved
as units.
3017 . This was, so far as I know, Captain Charles W. Smith’s in-
dividual method of making Square Sinnet. With four strands, hold
three in the left hand and one in the right hand. First, lay the upper
left strand across the front to the center below its sister strand.
Second, lay the upper right strand across the front to the center
below its sister strand. Third, lay the upper left strand across the
3 on
( 496 1
PLAT SINNETS
back to the center below its sister strand. Fourth, lay the upper right
strand across the back to the center below its sister strand, and repeat
the directions from the beginning.
3018. Eight-Strand Square Sinnet by Captain Charles W.
Smith’s method. Hold five strands in the left hand and three strands
in the right. First, bring the upper left strand down the front to the
center into the lower position on the right side. Second, bring the
upper right strand down the fro?it to the center into the lower posi-
tion on the left side. Third, bring the upper left strand down the
back to the center into the lower position on the right side. Fourth,
bring the upper right strand down the back to the center into the
lower position on the left side. Repeat from the beginning until
sufficient sinnet has been made.
This builds much faster than the usual method (# 3001 ) but it re-
quires more skill to plat it snugly. I have experienced some difficulty,
after putting this sinnet aside, in picking it up again just where I left
off. Structurally it is identical with # 3001 . Either sinnet may be in-
terrupted and then continued by the other method.
3019. Twelve-Strand Square Sinnet by Captain Charles W.
Smith’s method. Hold seven strands in the left hand and five in the
right and follow the directions already given for # 3018 .
3020. If it is desired to get the effect of a Crown Sinnet in a
hurry, take some fishline or marline and lay up into a Six-Strand
Cable by hand. Fasten one end of a fishline to a hook or nail on the
side of a building, fasten the other end in a hand drill in the place
of a bitt. Holding the line taut, turn the hand drill until the lay is as
tight as practicable. Keep the line tight and have your “mate” rub
it well with a piece of waxed canvas. Then have him grasp the strand
at half length and hold it taut while you place the two ends together
and make the second end fast. Grasp the bight in the drill. Keeping
the doubled line taut, loosen the ratchet of the drill, and the two
parts will lay up together. Make three of these doubled lines. With
the brace impart extra twist to the lay of each of the three and then,
using the ratchet of the drill as before, lay the three doubled lines
lip together. Your mate should rub the line well with the waxed
canvas patch before slackening the tension that is held with the drill.
The six strands, which really form a cable of sorts, can hardly be
told from Crown Sinnet.
3 O
(Cont.)
30 18
30t9
30 20
l 497 J
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3021 . Round Sinnet requires an even number of strands. With
four strands it is identical with #2999, which is made by a quicker
and simpler method. Six is the preferred number of strands for
Round Sinnet but it may also be made satisfactorily with eight
strands if worked carefully. With more than eight strands, being
tubular, it is prone to distort and should have a core. Made with a
core, it is often termed Coachwhipping, although Coachwhipping
proper is made with doubled or tripled strands (#3015) and, if made
on the tapering end of a rope, is called Cross-Pointing.
To make a Six-Strand Round Sinnet: Tie six strands together
and hold them in the left hand with three alternate strands extended
over the back of the hand and the three lower strands held in the
grasp of the hand. Tie an Overhand Knot in the end of each upper
strand to identify it. Take any upper knotted strand, lay it diagonally
down to the right, crossing the first lower strand, and place it in the
grasp of the hand. Extend the lower strand that has just been crossed,
pull on it firmly and lay it over the back of the hand. Turn the
whole sinnet in the hand, counterclockwise, a hundred and twenty
degrees (one third of the circuit), which brings the next pair of
strands to the front. Treat these in the same manner as the first pair.
Turn the structure again counterclockwise a hundred and twenty
degrees farther and do likewise with the third and remaining pair.
This completes one of the two cycles that are required to make the
sinnet.
Without changing the grip of the left hand, grasp with the right
hand the upper strand to the right. (The upper strands at this time
are the unknotted strands chat originally were in the lower position.)
Lead this strand down in a left diagonal, crossing the next lower
strand, and extend the strand just crossed. Count aloud as you cross
strands, one number for each crossing, “1, 2, 3,” and at 3 it is time to
reverse the direction again. At the completion of one cycle the three
knots are aloft; at the completion of the next cycle the knots are
down. Continue to alternate the two sets of directions that have been
given.
The first two diagrams show the first two strands being exchanged.
The third diagram shows the beginning of the second interchange.
Diagram 4 shows the completed cycle, after all strands have been
interchanged, and also the beginning of the first reverse interchange.
Figure 5 shows the continuation of this interchange, and figure 6
shows the completed sinnet.
3022 . Unless very firmly made, Eight-Strand Round Sinnet will
require a core. With more than eight strands a core is imperative
and the resultant sinnet is called Cross-Pointing. Cross-Pointing
is worked as Round Sinnet, with any even number of strands.
If worked around a core with units of two or three strands instead
of single strands, this is generally called Coachwhipping. But almost
any sinnet worked around a core may be called Coachwhipping.
3023 . In Multi-Strand Cross-Pointing one end of the core should
be secured to some object aloft. For small sinnets a hook is conven-
ient as the length must be changed frequently. Have the hook at not
less than eye level. But the best way is to lead the core aloft through
[ 498 ]
PLAT SINNETS
a single block and to make the end fast to a pin or cleat so that it
may be adjusted at frequent intervals as the sinnet grows.
3024. Cyrus L. Day, in his book Sailors' Knots , gives the method
of making Round Sinnet in a position the reverse of what I have
described, with the strands hanging downward. I have never seen
this method described elsewhere. If a core is used (Cross-Pointing)
there seems to be little to choose between the two methods, but I
prefer the old way for a regular Round Sinnet, without a core, as
it gives a firmer mass to grasp in the hand.
The directions for making this are identical with what has already
been given, the sole difference in working being that the strands are
pulled downward when tightening instead of upward.
3025. Round Sinnet. A “skip-strand” method for Round Sinnet
and Cross-Pointing, with eight strands. The strands are divided and
arranged as in the Round Sinnet just described but the upper strand
in its downward diagonal crosses two lower strands instead of one,
and it is the second one to be crossed that is raised or extended each
time. It will assist greatly when first making this sinnet if the strands
of the two sets are marked (one set moves to the right, the other to
the left). If two colors are not available, dip one set in strong tea or
coffee, the other in water, and dry them. But if time is lacking, tie an
Overhand Knot in the ends of one set. It will also assist materially
if the strands are started as Sinnet # 3021 , until they are in regular
formation.
To make: With eight strands in hand, raise each alternate one and
lay it back over the forefinger and hold the remainder in the grasp
of the left hand. Do two movements of # 3021 , one set to the left
and then one set to the right; the sinnet is now ready to start. Take
any upper strand and lead it downward in a right diagonal, crossing
two lower strands. Grasp the strand that was moved in the left hand
and extend the last or second strand that was crossed. Rotate the
structure counterclockwise one quarter turn, so that the next upper
strand to the left is in position. Repeat with this and then with the
remaining two strands. When the fourth upper strand has been
moved, do not shift the grip but grasp the second upstanding strand
to the right of it, lead it in a left diagonal downward over the two
lower strands and extend the last or second one that was passed. Ro-
tate the structure one quarter turn clockwise and repeat with the
next upstanding strand to the right. Do likewise with the remaining
two. The two complete cycles of the sinnet have now been made.
This sinnet may be made without a core up to ten, or possibly
twelve, strands. But a core of about twice the diameter of a strand
can be employed to advantage with twelve and fourteen strands.
3026. A “Skip-Strand” Sinnet (three strands are skipped). This
is made in the same manner as the foregoing except that three lower
strands are crossed instead of two by each upper strand when it is
worked.
3027. A “Skip-Strand” Sinnet with alternating short and long
diagonals. In the left diagonals the upper strands are each led over
three lower strands at each move and in the right diagonals the upper
strands are each led over only one lower strand.
[ 499 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3032.
3 o 34
3028. A Triangular Sin net of nine strands. This was the first
Equilateral Triangular Sinnet to be made. It is easy to make and
“builds” rapidly. Tie nine strands together, three white and six
colored strands. Hold in the left hand and extend the three white
strands over the back of the hand, arranging the six colored strands
regularly in the grasp of the hand. Take one of the single white
strands and lead it to the left down over the next pair of lower
strands and extend the pair that was just crossed. Rotate the struc-
ture a hundred and twenty degrees clockwise, which brings the
next single white strand into position. Move this strand the same as
the previous one and extend two colored strands as before. Then
move the remaining single strand exactly as the first strand was
worked, extending the remaining colored strands. There are now
three pairs of upper strands and three single lower strands.
Take the bottom or left strand from a convenient upper (colored)
pair and lead it to the right across the next single lower white strand
(see fifth illustration) and extend the single white strand. Now drop
the remaining member of that colored pair down into the grasp of the
hand. Move the structure a hundred and twenty degrees counter-
clockwise and repeat with the next set of strands. Repeat with the
remaining set.
Start from the beginning and repeat. It will be found, when it is
time to work the pairs, that the two strands are arranged one above
the other. Each time, it is the lover strand of the pair that is led and
the remaining or upper strand of the pair is dropped inert, into the
hand, without making any crossing.
Although at first the method may prove a little confusing (prob-
ably due to the inert member of each of the pairs), it will be found
to work very quickly and smoothly when once learned. The colored
pairs form the edges of the finished sinnet and the white strands the
sides.
3029. A Triangular Sinnet of twelve strands is worked similarly.
At the edges the colored strands are arranged in groups of three in-
stead of pairs. The sole difference in working is that after the bottom
strand of a group of three has been crossed to the right and the
single white strand that was crossed has been extended, two remain-
ing strands are dropped into the grasp of the hand, instead of one,
3030. A Triangular Sinnet of fifteen strands introduces a new
feature. The edge strands are worked as before, to the right, and the
white or side strands to the left. But in this sinnet there are two
white strands to each side group and they are worked similarly to
the edge strands. The white strand in the lower tier is crossed over
the opposing group of three colored strands, while the remaining
white one is dropped into the grasp of the hand.
3031. A Square Sinnet with four groups instead of three, worked
in the same way. If four equal groups are used, the result is ordinary
Square Sinnet (#3001). The number of strands at each point is in-
dicated on the diagrams. If there is a difference in the number of the
two sets, the white strands are always the smaller in number.
3032. A Round or Six-Sided Sinnet. This sinnet has six groups
of strands but the groups are even, having two strands each. If a core
is used, this may be made with three strands to the group.
3033. A handsome Square Sinnet may be made with eight groups,
four being singular and pairs being introduced at the corners.
3034. A Square Sinnet. With three strands in each corner group,
a small core is indicated.
CHAPTER 39: SOLID SINNETS
It can be done in another way, but it requires a good and neat Mar-
lingspike Sailor to do it.
William Brady: The Kedge Anchor , 1841
The Plat Sinnets of the previous chapter are either flat or tubu-
lar. Larger and different-shaped sinners have always required cores.
My first experiments in sinnets began with a search for a sinnet
of equilateral triangular cross section and the first successful sinnet
of this shape was a tubular one (#3028) of the last chapter.
In a later attempt to- find a larger sinnet of the same shape, a Crown
Jinnet was produced on diagram #3047. Still later it was found
that a smaller Crown Sinnet of the same sort could be made on a
smaller diagram. This was #3035, ‘Which follows:
3035. The method of making is illustrated in the series of diagrams
at the top of this page. Six strands are seized together with a Con-
strictor Knot and an Overhand Knot is cast in three alternate ends
to assist in identification. The knotted ends are first crowned as
shown in the third diagram. The unknotted ends are next led with-
out crowning as in the fourth diagram, which completes one opera-
tion. The sinnet is continued by crowning the knotted strands again,
as shown in the fifth diagram of the series, and then the unknotted
set is led again, as in the fourth diagram. The two movements are
repeated in alternation until sufficient sinnet has been made.
The sinnet produced is triangular, but due to the bulkiness of the
Crown Knot, it is somewhat irregular, and this irregularity is very
much accented in larger sinnets, in which both sets of strands are
crowned.
3036. I found that, by introducing extra or duplicate strands at
various places in the circumference, the sinnet could be made to build
in a helix instead of in tiers, so eliminating the necessity of crowning
the strands. The extra strands were so introduced that no space in
the circumference was left vacant, when the strands were moved.
The spaces are regularly numbered around the diagrams counter-
clockwise. All odd strands, when they are moved, are led to the
right, counterclockwise; all even strands are led to the left, clock-
wise. The earliest strand to occupy any space is always the next one
to be moved from that space. The earliest odd-numbered strand is
always the right-hand strand of its group; when it is moved it is led
to the right, counterclockwise, until it reaches its destination, where
it is put into the near or left-hand position of an odd-numbered
501 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
At an even-numbered space the left strand of the group is moved
to the left (clockwise) until it reaches its destination, where it is put
into the right-hand position. The two ways of moving strands are
indicated with arrows in diagram #3041. All strands are moved
“over all.” If, however, an odd strand is led to an even-numbered
space, as is sometimes the case, it passes to the right as it leaves the
odd space but is carried to the right side of the even-numbered space
when it arrives. If a strand from an even-numbered space is led to an
odd-numbered space, it is moved to the left but is placed at the left
side of the odd-numbered space.
3037. To hold the strands in place, while working these sinnets,
a table, similar to the one shown, will be found a great convenience.
Take the round bottom of a peach basket with an inch-and-a-half
hole in the center and peg in three broomsticks for legs, about forty
inches long. Chamfer the top edge. At the top the legs should be
close together and at the floor about eighteen inches or more apart.
3038, 3039. As many bobbins are required as there are strands,
and these should be weighted. Seven-inch wire spikes will be found
satisfactory and inexpensive. Two ways of securing them with
Clove Hitches are illustrated.
3040. Use a small bag of BB shot for a counterweight, as this is
easily adjustable and will not mar anything if it falls. But a weighted
stocking foot or a beanbag will serve as well. The counterweight
should be a little heavier than the combined weight of the bobbins.
3041. The cross-sectional shapes of the completed sinnets are
closely approximated by the outline of the diagrams, which show
the cycles of the various strands. But it is unnecessary to make the
sinnets directly over the diagrams. It will be sufficient, and less con-
fusing, to take a paper disk the size of the table top, with a hole in
the center of the proper size, and to draw on it a number of evenly
spaced radial lines equal to the number of spaces that are called for.
Number the spaces between the lines in rotation, counterclockwise,
with large heavy figures. After putting the paper disk on the table,
preparatory to making a sinnet, drive an inch brad near the outer
end of each line. These will serve to keep the strands apart.
The least number of strands with which a sinnet may be made
by the helical method, to conform to the first triangular diagram of
this chapter, which is at the top of page 501, is eight. There are three
different sequences of moves by which the sinnet may be made with
eight strands. There are six sequences by which it may be made with
nine strands and three by which it may be made with ten strands.
One of the Eight-Strand Sinnets is round, two are barely triangu-
lar, all six of the Nine-Strand Sinnets are triangular, but irregular.
The remaining three Ten-Strand Sinnets are all triangular and sym-
metrical. By introducing one additional strand, at each corner or
edge, the non-triangular Eight-Strand Sinnet becomes triangular.
By introducing extra strands where required, the six irregular Nine-
Strand Sinnets will become regular.
3042. Five of the sinnets that may be made on six-space diagram
#3035 are to be given on the next page. Except for the present sinnet,
the outward appearances of the five are much alike, all being triangu-
lar.
Seize together the ends of eight strands of banding; arrange them
on worktable (#3037) over a paper disk (#3041) that is divided by
radial lines into six equal sectors. Number these sectors, one to six,
counterclockwise, and mark in each space the number of strands that
are indicated in the second column of table #3042 (next page).
t 5° 2 J
SOLID SINNETS
Attach a bobbin (#3038-39) to the end of each strand, and
counterbalance as #3040.
Move the strands as described in #3036 and in the sequence di-
rected in the two right columns of table #3042 (see below), and
continue to repeat these directions in the same order.
Odd numbers are always moved to the right, and even numbers
to the left. The right- hand strand from space 1 is moved to the right
and put into the left- hand or near position in space 5. The left- hand
strand in space 4 is moved to the left to take the right- hand or near
position in space 2. Work the strands firmly, but not forcefully, and
continue to move strands as directed in the two right-hand columns
until sufficient sinnet is made.
3043. By the addition of one extra strand at each edge or comer,
#3042 is transformed from a Round Sinnet into a satisfactory Tri-
angular Sinnet of eleven strands. A corner in a diagram represents
an edge of the completed sinnet. The directions for this sinnet are
tabulated below. It is worked the same as #3042.
3044. An Eight-Strand Sinnet that is triangular. Observe that
whenever a side strand is moved to the left in this sinnet it crosses
two adjacent corner strands, while in #3042 a side strand crosses
only one adjacent comer strand. This is responsible for the differing
bulk, at the edges of the two sinnets. Directions for making this are
given in the table below (#3044).
3045. The handsomest Triangular Sinnet made on the six-bight
diagram has ten strands. Its triangular shape is regular and practi-
cally inevitable if the bobbins and counterweight are correct and
the edge of the table is well rounded. See table # 3045 below.
3046. A fuller-appearing Sinnet of Thirteen Strands which
bulks very little more than the others. With one more strand added
to each comer a handsome Sixteen-Strand Sinnet is made. See table
#3046 below.
#3042 (8-Strand Round) #3045 (io-Strand Triangle)
Space
Strands
Move
Space
Strands
Move
1
2
i -5
1
2
1
4-2
2
1
4-2
3
1
5-3
3
2
3 -i
4
2
2-6
4
2
6-4
5
1
3 -i
5
1
5”3
6
1
6-4
6
2
2-6
#3043 (11
-Strand Triangle)
#3046 (^-Strand Triangle)
Space
Strands
Move
Space
Strands
Move
1
3
1
3
2
1
Directions
2
2
2-6
3
2
the same
3
3
3 -i
4
2
as # 3042
4
2
4-2
5
2
5
2
5-3
6
1
6
1
6-4
#3044 (8*
-Strand Triangle)
Any sinnet with
an uneven
Space
Strands
Move
number of edges (or sides), in
I
2
1-5
order to be symmetrical, must
2
1
6-4
have all the strands at the edges
3
1
5-3
rotate
in the same
direction.
4
1
4 “i
5
1
3-1
6
2
2-6
[ 503 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3047. This is the first Helical Sinnet that was made. It is a tri-
angle ©f twelve bights.
To tie: Make a paper disk with a hole in the middle, divide the circum-
ference into twelve equal parts and draw radial lines to the center. Num-
ber the spaces in numerical order, counterclockwise. Place the disk on
the table and drive in brads near the ends of the lines. Having arranged
the strands, spindles and counterweight, introduce the strands of banding
at the different spaces as shown in the two left columns of the table
below and move the strands as directed in the table.
3048. The edges of this sinnet are not prominent.
#3047 (^-Strand Triangle)
Space
Strands
Move
1
2
1- 9
2
1
8- 2
3
2
3 ' 7
4
1
6- 4
5
2
5 ' 1
6
2
12- 6
7
1
7-11
8
2
10- 8
9
1
9 ~ 5
10
2
4-10
1 1
1
11- 3
12
2
2-12
#3049 (22-Strand Triangle)
Space
Strands
Move
1
3
1- 9
2
1
8- 2
3
2
3 - 7
4
1
6- 4
5
3
5 - 1
6
2
12- 6
7
1
l-ii
8
2
10- 8
9
2
9 - 5
10
2
4-10
1 1
1
11- 3
1 2
2
2-12
#3051
(28-Strand Triangle)
Space
Strands
Move
1
2
11-13
2
1
12- 2
3
2
3 ~u
4
1
10- 4
5
2
5 “ 9
6
1
8- 6
7
2
7 “ 1
8
2
18- 8
9
1
9-17
10
2
16-10
1 1
1
11-15
12
2
14-12
*3
1
* 3 “ 7
*4
2
6-14
15
1
15 - 5
16
2
4-16
*7
1
17 - 3
18
2
2~1 8
f 5°4 1
#3048 (^-Strand Triangle)
Space
Strands
Move
1
2
1- 9
2
1
8- 2
3
2
3 " 7
4
1
6- 4
5
1
9 - 5
6
2
4-10
7
1
11- 3
8
2
2-12
9
1
5 - 1
10
1
12- 6
1 1
2
7-1 1
12
1
10- 8
#3050 (29-STRAND Triangle)
Space
Strands
Move
1
3
2
2
3
3
4
2
Directions
5
2
same as
6
3
#3048
7
2
8
3
9
2
10
2
1 1
3
12
2
#3052 (
2o-Strand Hexagon)
Space
Strands
Move
1
2
12- 8
2
1
7 “ *
3
2
*- 7
4
1
6- 2
5
2
2“IO
6
2
9 “ 3
7
2
3 - 9
8
1
8-4
9
2
4-12
10
1
11- 5
1 1
2
5-11
*
1 2
2
10- 6
Corners
“take up”
faster than
sides.
SOLID SINNETS
3049. The edges of this one are more prominent.
3050. The texture here has been doubled by the introduction of
additional strands. Any of the other diagrams may have their texture
doubled in a similar manner. Moreover any may have their edges
accented by adding an extra strand at each corner as in # 3049 .
3051. 3052. These are worked as the others.
If a sinnet is not sufficiently compact when first tied, which is very likely
to happen, particularly when making the larger ones, they may be easily
worked over, along their length, with a pricker, first tightening all the
even strands in sequence and then tightening the odd ones. This is not so
arduous a task as might appear, although it may take a little while before
the knack is acquired.
3053, 3054. In these diagrams, for the first time a strand from an
odd-numbered space is led to an even-numbered space, and a strand
from an even-numbered space is led to an odd-numbered space.
But having once departed from a space, that space should be forgotten
and the new space approached in the manner that is peculiar to it, and
which has already been described. The tension of Sinnet $3057 should
be handled carefully. The texture differs from anything that has hereto-
fore been shown.
#3053 (19-STRAND Half
Hexagon)
Space
1
Strands
9
10
Move
6- 4
3- 7
7 - 2
1- 8
4- 9
9- 3
2- 10
10- 6
s- 1
#3055 (26-Strand Fan belt
Shape)
Space
1
Strands
9
10
1 1
12
*3
1 5
16
Move
12- 7
6- 13
! 3~ 5
4- 14
* 5 ~ 3
2- 16
1-1 2
1 1- 2
3- 1 1
10- 4
5- 9
8 - 6
7- 1
16- 8
9-i5
14-10
#3054 (^-Strand Half Round)
Space
Strands
1 "
Move
1
3
2
1
3
2
4
1
5
2
Move
6
2
as #3053
7
2
8
1
9
2
10
1
#3056 (26-Strand Diamond)
Space
Strands
Move
1
2
1-1 2
2
1
1 1- 2
3
2
3-10
4
1
9“ 4
5
2
6- 1
6
2
16- 7
7
1
8-15
8
2
14- 9
9
2
2-16
10
1
l 5 ~ 3
1 1
2
4-H
12
1
*3- 5
*3
2
5 -I 3
H
2
12- 6
*5
1
7-1 1
16
2
10- 8
#3057 (9-Strand Triangle)
Space
Strands
Move
1
2
J “5
2
2
2 -4
3
2
3" 1
4
1
4-6
5
1
S' 3
6
1
&-2
3o53
3 05 * 4
3 055 -
3056
3 05*7
a
[ 505 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3058. The same diagram is employed here as for the sinners of
pages 501-03, but all the strands here rotate in one direction only.
3059. With the strands all rotating in one direction it is pos-
sible in a sinnet with an uneven number of edges (and sides) to have
an even number of spaces on each side (or face). Heretofore, with
an odd number of faces, an odd number of spaces to the side was
required.
3060. The present diagram is the exact cycle of Sinnet #3028 of
the last chapter, and the same number of strands is employed, but
they are differently disposed. In Sinnet #3028 six strands rotate to
the right and three to the left. In the sinnet given here five rotate
to the right and four to the left. But the present sinnet is made by the
helical method while #3028 does not helix, although three strands
from each set are moved simultaneously without being knotted. The
completed sinnets can hardly be told apart.
3061. A Square Sinnet of twelve strands made on a diagram of
eight spaces. This is tubular and a small core is indicated. But if one
strand is added to each even space a Round Sinnet will result.
3062. The Round Sinnet given here is made on the same diagram
as Hexagonal Sinnet #3052, but with the addition of extra strands
to the sides the form becomes round. Being solid, the final round
shape is practically inevitable, which is true of most of the sinnets
of this chapter. This is, of course, dependent upon a proper tension
for each strand.
#3058 (9-Strand Triancle) #3061 (1 2-Strand Square
(All strands move to the right.) [Core])
Space
1
Strands
2
Move
i -5
Space
1
Strands
2
Move
2-8
2
2
2-4
2
2
i -3
3
4
2
1
3 - 1
4- 6
3
4
1
1
8-6
7 -*_
5
6
1
1
5 - 3
6- 2
5
6
2
1
6-4
5-7
#3059 (^-Strand Triangle)
(All strands move to the right.)
7
8
2
1
4-2
3-5
#3062 (
2 6-Strand Rou
nd)
Space
1
Strands
Move
2
i -7
Space
Strands
Move
2
2-6
1
2
12- 8
3
2
3-5
2
2
7 " 1
4
5
2
1
4-1
5“9
3
4
2
2
1- 7
6- 2
6
1
6-8
5
2
2-10
7
8
1
1
7~4
8-3
6
7
3
2
9 “ 3
3 “ 9
9
1
9-2
8
2
8-4
#3060 (9-Strand Triangle)
(Strands move right and left.)
9
10
1 1
2
2
2
4- 12
11- 5
5 - u
Space
Strands
Move
12
3
10- 6
1
2
!-3
2
1
6-4
3
1
5 ~ I
4
1
4-2
5
6
2
2
3-5
2-6
SOLID SIN NETS
3063. A large, compact Round Sinnet of forty-five strands with
a doubled texture resembling a ribbed stocking.
3064. A Round Sinnet with a distinctive texture, that is quite
handsome but is not so simple to draw up as some of the others.
3065. A Round Sinnet with three different cycles each in the
shape of an S turn.
3066. The strands in the next four sinnets rotate in one direction
only— to the right. They are related to the Crown Sinnets, but helix
so that they require no knotting. This one has two extra strands
introduced at i and 5 . But it may be attempted with one extra strand,
at 1 , or it may be made with four extra strands introduced at 1 , 3 , 5 ,
and 7 .
i
3067. A Round Sinnet made on the table but without the em-
ployment of pins or numbers.
Take seven or eight strands (with six strands the result is merely
a plain-laid rope), lead any strand to the right over the next four
strands, l ake the third strand to the left of the one that was just
deposited, and cross the next four to the right. Draw up firmly after
each strand is passed and continue to repeat the last direction that
was given until sufficient sinnet is made.
#3063 (45-STRAND Round) #3064 (19-STRAND Round)
Space
Strands
Move
Space
Strands
Move
1
3
16-12
1
1
7-1 1
2
2
u-17
2
1
6-12
3
3
18-10
3
1
5 “ 1
4
3
1- 9
4
2
4- 2
5
y
8- 2
5
2
ir - 3
6
3
3 - 7
6
2
10- 4
7
y
4 -««
7
2
9 - 5
8
3
17- 5
8
2
8- 6
9
2
6- 1 6
9
2
3 - 7
10
2
7 -*5
IO
2
2- 8
1 1
3
14- 8
1 r
1
1- 9
12
9 '3
1 2
1
1 2-10
13
2
io- 6
H
3
5-11
#3066 (
io-Strand Rou
nd)
*5
y
12- 4
Space
Strands
Move
16
3
1 3 ~ 3
1
r
y
T _ y
17
18
2
3
2-14
1 5 - 1
1
2
1
1 Z
5-6
3
1
2-3
#3065 ( 9-Strand
Round)
4
1
6-7
3
2
3-4
Space
Strands
Move
6
1
7-8
1
2
7
1
4-5
y
1
J -4
8
1
8-1
3
2
3-6
4
1
2-5
5
2
4-1
6
1
6“ 3
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3072
3068. All strands arc moved to the right in accordance with the
tabulated directions.
3069. All strands are moved to the right on a four-space diagram.
The result resembles a cable-laid rope.
3070. This is ordinary Square Sinnet #3001 made on the table.
This seems to be a quicker method than the ordinary way and with
practice might prove even faster than the Captain Charles W. Smith
method (#3018). After a little experience the operator will be able
to move opposite strands simultaneously; two strands (1-3, 3-1) are
moved together, then 2-4, 4-2. Even-numbered strands, as usual, go
to the left and odd strands to right.
3071. 3072. Flat Chisel-Edged Sinnets. These are quite hand-
some and may be made wider if desired. Many of the sinnets that are
shown here lend themselves to amplification.
#3068 ( 1 2-Strand Round)
#3071
( 14-STRAND Chisel-Edge)
(All strands move
to right.)
(Odd strands move to right, even
to the left.)
Space
A
Strands
Move
/
1
2
1-4
Space
Strands
Move
2
2
4-1
1
2
3
2
2
1
8-2
4
2
5"*
3
2
3-7
5
2
3-6
4
1
6-4
6
2
6-3
5
3
i-5
#3069 (6-Strand Round)
6
2
4-6
(All strands move
to right.)
7
8
1
2
7~3
2-8
Space
Strands
Move
#3072
(2o-Strand Chisel-Edge)
1
2
f -3
(Odd strands move to
the right,
2
2
2-4
even strands move to the left.)
3
1
3 -i
4
1
4-2
Space
Strands
Move
#3070 (8-Strand Square)
1
2
1 ~ 1
(Odd
strands move
right, even
2
1
12- 2
strands left.)
3
2
3 -! I
4
1
10- 4
Space
Strands
Move
5
2
5- 9
1
2
i -3
6
1
8- 6
2
2
3 - 1
7
3
7
3
2
2-4
8
2
6- 8
4
2
4-2
9
1
9- 5
10
2
4-10
1 1
1
11- 3
12
2
2-12
The sinnets on the next page, being four-sided, are not limited to
edges rotating in the same direction, or to sides with an odd number
of parts. Odd numbers move to the right and even numbers to the
left as usual.
[ 5 ° 8 1
SOLID SINNETS
Always place an arriving strand, if odd, at the left of its group,
and if even , at the right of its group, and always move a departing
strand, if odd, from the right of a group and, if even, from the left
of a group.
#3073 (2o-Strand Square) #3076 (2o-Strand Oblong)
Space
Strands
Move
1
2
2-12
2
2
11- 3
3
1
4-10 Left
4
2
10-4 “
5
2
5 " 9
6
1
8- 6
7
2
3 - 5
8
2
6 - 2
9
1
1- 7
10
2
7 “ 1
1 1
2
12- 8
12
1
9 -i 1
#3074 (26-Strand Square)
Space
Strands
Move
ML
1
2
2-16
2
2
15- 3
3
1
4"*4
4
2
i 3 ” 5
5
2
5 -n
6
1
12- 6
7
2
7 -u
8
1
10- 8
9
2
6- 4
10
2
3 ” 7
1 1
1
8- 2
12
2
1- 9
*3
2
9 - 1
14
1
16-10
*5
2
11-15
16
1
1 4-1 2
#3075 (
2o-Strand Oblong)
Space
Strands
Move
1
2
2-12
2
2
12- 3
3
1
4 -i 1
4
2
10- 5
5
1
6- 9
6
2
8- 6
7
2
5 - 7
8
2
7 - 4
9
1
3 ” 8
10
2
9 - 2
1 1
1
I-IO
12
2
11- 1
Space
Strands
Move
1
2
4- 2
2
1
5
3
2
6- 1
4
2
12- 7
5
1
7 -n
6
2
10- 8
7
2
2-12
8
1
11- 3
9
2
3-10
10
2
9 - 4
1 1
1
5 ” 9
1 2
2
8- 6
#3077 (3
2 -Strand Oblong)
Space
Strands
Move
1
2
N>
1
N>
O
2
2
19 - 3
3
1
4” I 9
4
2
18- 5
5
1
6-17
6
2
16- 7
7
1
8-15
8
2
H" 9
9
2
9-13
10
1
12-10
1 1
2
10- 8
12
2
7 -i 1
! 3
1
11- 6
14
2
5-12
*5
1
13- 4
16
2
3 _I 4
17
1
15- 2
18
2
1 — 1 6
!9
2
17- 1
20
1
20-18
1 509 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
IO
11
tt
»3
14
&
I
3062.
r
3078
f
V/
T
\/
/
3078. An Ellipse of twenty strands. Although this design appears
to be a bit irregular, it works out into a very handsome Ellipse with an
even surface. The tension of the strands must be carefully handled, and
the sinner will require fairing with a pricker after removal from the table,
3079. A Pentagon of thirty-six strands. Although the lines in this
diagram lead in five directions it is no more complicated to work than the
others. The specimen was made with red corners, green center strands
and the remainder white, the result being a series of lengthwise stripes.
3080. A smaller Pentagon.
3081. 3082. Two Pentalphas. The latter was the first made, the
shape is inevitable if worked methodically.
\fimm
WAwiMi
30 80
3001
mm
wmm
*
a
#3078 ( zo-Strand Ellipse)
Space
Strands
10
Move
1- 3
4- 14
13- 5
11- 6
7-1 1
jo- 8
14 - 7
6- i
5- 9
9~ 4
3-10
11 - 2
2- 1 1
#3079 (36-Si rand Pentagon)
Space
Strands
3
9
10
*3
*4
*5
16
*7
18
*9
20
Move
1- 13
12- 2
3-1 1
IQ- 4
5~*7
16- 6
7- 1 5
14- 8
9- 1
20-10
n-19
18 - 12
13 - 5
4“ , 4
*5~ 3
2- 16
17- 9
8- 18
19- 7
6-20
#3080 ( 1 6-Strand Pentagon)
Space
Strands
9
10
Move
1- 7
6- 2
3 " 9
«- 4
5- 1
10- 6
7 - 3
2- 8
9 - 5
4-10
[ 5*o 1
#3081 ( 31 -STRAND Pentalwa)
Space
Strands
9
10
13
*4
15
16
n
18
19
20
Move
18- 16
15- 19
1- 13
12 - 2
2 - 20
19- 3
5- 17
16- 6
6- 4
3 - 7
9 " »
20- 10
10- 8
7 - i 1
13- 5
4 ~ *4
14- 12
11- 15
17- 9
8- 18
#3082 (61 -Strand Pent alpha)
Space
Strands
3
10
*3
*4
1 5
16
n
j 8
19
20
22
** A
- >
24
26
21
28
29
3 °
3 *
3 2
33
34
35
3 6
37
38
39
40
Move
34- 3*
3 1 “3 S
36- 30
29- 37
1- 25
24- 2
3- 2 3
2 2— 4
2- 40
39- 3
4- 38
37- 5
9-33
32- 10
n-31
30- 12
10- 8
7 - u
12- 6
5- »?
17- 1
40- 18
19- 39
38- 20
"18-16
15-19
20- 14
*3-2»
25- 9
8- 26
27 - 7
6- 28
26- 24
23-27
28- 22
21- 29
33- *7
*6-34
35- »5
*4~3 6
CHAPTER 40: PRACTICAL MARLIN GSPIKE
SEAMANSHIP
Worm and parcel with the lay ,
Turn about and serve away .
Sailors’ Work Rhyme
The subject of marlingspike seamanship is to be divided into two
chapters. The first of these is concerned primarily with what is
elementary and practical, while the one to follow is devoted mostly
to knots in combination. More often than not these combinations
are deliberately decorative, although they are scarcely less practical
than the contents of the present chapter.
Much of the matter of both chapters consists of details of the
rigger’s craft. There has never been a handicraft in which innova-
tions have been more critically examined or more grudgingly ac-
cepted. But this, perhaps, is well, since many lives must have been
spared as a consequence.
This conservatism is evidenced by the fact that many of the
smaller riggers’ practices of today are exactly what they were in the
days of Lever and Du Clairbois. There was quite as much difference
to 'be found in the detail work of two contemporary rigging lofts at
any one time in this period as there was between the characteristic
work of any two dates that are a century apart.
The bark Sunbeam^ on which I sailed in 1904, was probably the
last merchant square-rigger to put to sea with hemp standing rigging.
The whalers that remained at that time reflected the practices of a
day fifty or seventy-five years earlier. So I can fairly claim, with a
few reservations, a first-hand acquaintance with the rigging prac-
[51* 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
tices of a full century. Wire rigging began to appear with the ad-
vent of the clipper ships and rigging at that time became loftier
and lighter. But the day of the clipper was a short one. It has been
only within the last twenty-five or thirty years, when the relative
importance of commercial and pleasure sailing craft has been shifting,
that the clamor for lighter gear aloft has again been heard.
Ropes and line for convenience in handling, or else for purposes
of storage, are coiled or wound on reels of various sorts, which vary
all the way from a flat stick to elaborate ball-bearing anglers’ reels.
Gardeners have their edging and hose reels and laundresses their
clothesline reels. There are table swifts for yarn, and spools for
thread. Spindles, bobbins, cops and shuttles are employed in spinning
and weaving. There are tatting needles and netting needles. Reels
may vary in size all the way from a ten-foot seine wheel, on a
river bank, to the quarter-inch bobbin of a sewing machine.
Right-hand or plain-laid rope properly is coiled clockwise but it
is sometimes simpler to coil new rope left-handed. The right way to
coil a cable, of course, is counterclockwise, its lay being opposite
to plain- or right-laid rope.
Many of the illustrations in the next two chapters have been drawn
from objects from my own collection and from the collection of the
Mariners 1 Museum in Newport News. Others are from sketches
that I have made on ships that I have visited, since the days when I
first began to draw.
Ship models as a source of contemporary information are usually
untrustworthy. Models are delicate things that require frequent re-
pair, and they offer too much temptation for the amateur rigger,
who sometimes has more zeal than knowledge. Most ship models at
one time or another have fallen into the hands of at least one of
these.
3083. Coils in fishline and twine are called hanks. The two ends
are stopped at opposite sides of the coil. Broken coils of rope in
chandleries are stopped in the same way, but in several places.
3084. After woolen yarn is wound into a long skein it is twisted
hard with the hands, the two ends are brought together and one end
is tucked a short way through the other. When the ends are released
the material lays itself up as pictured. A hank may be several skeins
tied up together, or it may be a series of connected and uniform
short lengths of a single line, wound as in #3085. When so made, the
purchaser may buy the length required without the necessity of
rewinding or measuring.
3085. When making punch mats or long sinnets a sailor makes up
his foxes or nettles into small hanks that are first wound in S turns
around the thumb and finger of one hand and then have flapping
turns added. These are more easily disposed of, while working, than
long loose ends. The third drawing shows a way of holding a hank,
while working, with an easily adjustable hitch.
3086. The ordinary method of disposing of a coil at sea. A right-
hand coil is hung directly over a pin and jammed down firmly. The
end is left a little longer than the coil. The turns of a coil should be
started next the pin and concluded at the end of the rope. If the end
is coiled first the rope will kink.
[ 512 ]
PRACTICAL AlARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP
When working ship, coils are dropped to deck face down, in front
of their pins, from which position they will generally run clear.
In making fast, if a coil is very large, it may be divided and hung
over two neighboring pins.
3087 . After turns have been put on a pin, the upper part of the
coil may be flattened against the pin rail, the standing part of the
rope pulled forward through the coil and several turns and (pos-
sibly) a hitch added. The end of the line is not disturbed.
3088 . This is the preferred way of securing coils that bulk too
large for hanging directly on the pins or cleats. A bight is pulled
forward through the coil from the standing part and is twisted to
the left until it will just slip over the handle of the pin.
3089 . To coil sea gaskets or furling lines . Furling lines were used
in the Merchant Marine after about 1850 and in the Navy probably
not earlier than 1875. Previous to these dates sea gaskets had been
made of Flat Sinnets and harbor gaskets of French Sinnet. When
in use they were seized or bent to the yard or jackstay with a Run-
ning Eye. They were used, when furling, to lash the sail to the yard.
When not in use they were coiled as pictured and brought over the
top of the yard to hang down in front of the sail.
After a coil had been made, four or five frapping turns were taken
near the head of the coil with the standing part of the line and then
a bight of the standing part was thrust through the head of the coil
above the turns and looped back over the head of the coil, where
it was jammed down close to the frapping turns and was worked
snug.
3090 . Ropes are often coiled and hung up in lofts for storage.
They are also hung over stakes in farm wagons and on hooks in
moving vans, fire apparatus and linesmen’s repair trucks. For such
active storage coils must be well made.
The coil given here is a particularly neat one. The working end
is brought to the head of the coil where, after a short round turn
has been made on the face of the coil, it is passed to the left, around
the back, and then at the front, is tucked back through all the turns
at the head of the coil. If the coil is to be stowed down, a single end
is passed, but if it is to be hung up, the end is doubled. In either case
this is one of the easiest coils of the sort to remember and for that rea-
son it is essentially practical. Instead of a single crossing turn, two or
three may be taken.
3091 . A coil that is based on the Angler’s Loop. Take a round
turn in the working end at the head of the coil. Make a bight in the
standing end at the back, and shove this bight up through the head
of the coil, and around all parts, then back through the head of
the coil and under the doubled part that was first rove through the
head of the coil. The coils illustrated as #3089-95 are for active
storage, while #3096, #3097 and #3098 are for dead storage.
3092 . Make a coil as pictured in the left sketch. Arrange the end
and hold at the head with the left hand, then add one or two frapping
turns and stick the loop down as indicated by the arrow.
Lashing ropes on trucks and vans are very apt to have Eye Splices
in one or both ends, in which case they are hung up by these and it
is not necessary to double the ends when coiling.
[513]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3093. This coil resembles the Sheepshank Knot (#1153), and is
a purely temporary expedient, generally to be seen in lofts, fishing
shacks, outbuildings and junk yards. A loose end is gathered up into
several turns and the standing part is half hitched twice at whatever
height the coil is to hang. If there are only one or two turns, one
hitch is quite sufficient, in which case a Bell Ringer’s Knot
(# 1147 ) has been tied.
3094. The fireman’s coil was shown to me by George Paselle.
It is verv neat, and is quickly cleared when needed. A hitch is made
near the end and laid against the top of the coil. A bight in the end
is passed from front to back through the head of the coil and up
through the hitch. The hitch must be drawn up snugly.
3095. A coil may be made in the manner of the Portuguese Bow-
line. A round turn is put in the standing part of the line. Then the
lower end of the rope is drawn up through the coil and knotted as
shown in the diagrams. Draw all taut and hang over a peg or nail
with a Cow Hitch, which is less liable to jam than a Clove Hitch.
In this coil neither end can work loose.
3096. A short-line coil for storage. Bring both ends together at the
head of the coil and form a Double Half Knot. Bring both ends
together around the coil, one under and one above, and reef knot the
two together.
3097. A fisherman’s coil, for stowing down short lengths, is usu-
ally secured with a Clove Hitch. It is tied by making first a round
turn and then a Half Hitch, both to the left. This is the coil often
seen in fishermen’s shacks. It must be drawn up snugly and carefully
[ 5'4 ]
PRACTICAL MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP
and adjusted as illustrated in the second diagram. The method is in-
ferior to the one which follows and it is possible that it is mistakenly
tied instead of #3098.
3098. The sailor’s coil, as customarily used at sea for stowing
down, is more secure. The construction of the knot is similar to the
Ground Line Hitch, shown as #278, but is reversed. A Single
Hitch is first taken with the end to the right tightly around a section
of the coil, then a second hitch is taken to the left. This is a very
satisfactory knot and, when used for coils of average size, will stand
considerable handling. If desired, the end may be left long for the
purpose of hanging up. It is often mistakenly called a Clove Hitch,
although the two knots have little in common.
3099. This is an excellent coil that is rarely seen, the previous coil
being easier to remember and, on the whole, better. But there is
never a knot without a friend, and many people swear by it. It is
tied by first making a round turn to the right, then a turn to the left
and finally the end is tucked as shown.
3100. The Strangle Knot (#1239) will hold a coil well and is
easily remembered. But, if drawn up too tightly, it will jam; for that
reason it had better be slipped. Tied in this way, it is both neat and
practical.
3101. Large coils are generally stowed down with three or four
rope-yarn stops. This is also the way rope is commonly delivered to
customers in chandleries, two stops being sufficient for small stuff,
and four or five for large stuff.
[515]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3 i o b
3102. Admiral: What mean you by flakes?
Captain: They are only those several circles or rounds of the
roapes or cables, that are quoiled up round.
Boteler's Dialogues , circa 1634
A flake is the sailor’s term for a turn in an ordinary coil, or for a
complete tier in a flat coil, as a French or Flemish flake . The current
dictionary form of the word is fake, a word that I have never heard
used with this meaning.
A Flemish flake is a spiral coil of one layer only. It is made on
deck, in this manner, so that it may be walked on if necessary.
Sometimes the outer turn is stopped to the end with sail twine,
which keeps the flake from being accidentally uncoiled. Commonly
it is circular. Often in yachts and training ships Flemish flakes are
sewed together on the back and placed about deck for ornament.
(See #3491.)
3103. Sometimes a Flemish flake is made in elliptical form, when
this shape better suits the space that is to be filled.
3104. A French coil is made of several (usually three or four)
Flemish flakes, one on top of the other. The first one is laid from the
center outward, the next from the outside, inward. Each flake is
made one turn smaller than the preceding one.
3105. The whaleman’s coil is somewhat similar to the last but is
made inside a line tub, which it completely fills, and each spiral flake
is begun at the outer edge. The initial end, which bears an Eye
Splice, is left hanging out through a notch in the rim of the tub.
When the center of each flake is reached, the line is led to the outer
edge and a second and succeeding flakes are added until the tub is
full. Each time the line is led from the center to the side, it is ad-
vanced clockwise several inches beyond the previous radius. If we
consider the top plane of the coil as a clock face, the lines radiate
clockwise at five- or six-minute intervals.
3106. An anchor cable is coiled on a grating close to the hatch, be-
tween decks. The grating allows for the circulation of air, which
assists in drying and prevents mildew. Being left-laid, a cable is coiled
left-handed— that is, counterclockwise or “against the sun,” usually
in a somewhat angular ellipse which is made as large as the space
will admit. The first flake is from the outside inward, and the second
from the inside outward, each flake being one turn smaller than the
previous one. The center of the coil is left well open and is reserved
for stowing smaller hawsers, rope and warps. The space is called the
“cable tier.”
3107. A rocket coil is arranged for shooting a light line to a wreck,
by means of which a life line is hauled to ship. It is also used at sea
for passing a line to a disabled vessel from another.
[ 5 l6 ]
PRACTICAL MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP
The cover of the “flaking box” has a series of pins over which the
line (a braided one) is coiled in the manner pictured, alternate flakes
being coiled from front to back and from side to side. The box is
then placed over the coiled lines and pins and is turned over. When
the coil is put to use the cover with the pins is lifted, which leaves
the line loosely coiled in the box. The box is placed with a corner
facing the line of trajectory, so that the flakes are diagonal. The back
corner of the box is lifted to allow the rope to run out easily when
the rocket is fired.
3108. A British method of coiling a line for the rocket gun is
described by Todd and Whall and pictured in the Admiralty Manual
of Seamanship for 1932. The turns are taken diagonally instead of
square, alternate flakes having opposite diagonals. The rocket end
of the line leads from the side of the box, which is placed all square,
and with the back side lifted.
3109. Racked turns. If a new sheet is inclined to kink, coil it flat
on deck in this manner with figure-eight or belaying-pin turns, which
will neither add to nor detract from the amount of twist. Make the
turns as large as space will admit. After a few days the sheet will
adjust itself. Coil garden hose in this manner around two large stones
which will hold the turns in place while coiling. Coiled in this way,
hose may be hung up on two pegs or beckets against the side of a
building and may be hauled directly from the coil without danger
of kinking.
3110. Figure-eight flakes. A series of overlapping figure-eight
turns, advancing, in the direction illustrated, about one or two di-
ameters of the rope at each turn, is an excellent way to range a new
stiff cable. It is also a very satisfactory way of coiling down large
hose.
3111. A long flake in a chain buoy cable is ranged thwartship the
full width of the deck opposite the companionway and, when the
anchor is dropped, whips out, end for end, with a fearful commo-
tion, raising a cloud of dust. After it has once started to run, no
human agency can stop it. It does not require so wide a companion-
way as the French flake which follows.
3112. The French flake is made exactly as the long flake , but it
leads from the side instead of the end when planting buoys. It is
also used in hawsers and warps for towing, when it is ranged
thwartship and the lead is aft.
3113. To “Flemish dozen” is a little different. Although it is very
closely related to the French flake, it bears no resemblance to the
Flemish coil. It is employed with a stiff line, not necessarily a large
one, although usually so. The ends of each succeeding flake are
pushed slightly under the preceding one, which holds it in place.
One man coils down, while another arranges the turns.
3 1 oi
3 loft
[517]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3H4 3 II S
3114. Half hitching. Unless put around a rope, this is really single
hitching but it is commonly called half hitching. It is a method of
lashing in which a series of Single Hitches is employed to secure
one or several objects, and it is universally used in tying up parcels,
bundles and bales.
3115. Marline Hitching is used to secure parceling on standing
rigging. It is preferred to half hitching, as service lies over it more
smoothly. It is also used in lacing the foot and heads of fore-and-aft
sails to booms and gaffs and in lashing hammocks. It is firmer than
half hitching. The difference in construction between the two may
be illustrated by tying a series on a cylinder and then slipping them
off the end. Half hitching spills instantly and completely, whereas
Marline Hitching resolves itself into a series of Overhand Knots.
3116. The Double Marline Hitch is given in several of the works
of seamanship of about 1 86o as the proper method of seizing the parts
of a fish davit tackle.
3117. Kackling or heckling consists of alternate right and left
hitches around two parts of a cable. It is a secure method of seizing.
3118. Nippering . A hemp cable is hove in by attaching it to a
continuous rope belt termed a messenger which passes around two
capstans, one forward and one aft. The cable is held to the messenger
with a series of short selvagees or sinnets termed nippers . A “nipper
man,” forward, passes these around the cable and the messenger, as
pictured, and a number of “nipper boys,” also termed “nippers,”
hold them in place, while the cable is hove from the forward capstan
to the after one. Each boy holds the after end of one nipper and the
forward end of a second one. When near the after capstan, the nip-
pers are removed and brought back to the nipper man by the nip-
per boys. The nippers are never made fast to the cable.
3119. Gower, in 1808, recommends this method of passing a nip-
per as one that “will not jamb.”
3120. Racking turns. These were used in nippering, as well as in
seizing the parts of a tackle.
3121. Alternating racking and round turns. When the pull was
very heavy, this was the proper way to pass nippers. If this slipped
when the anchor refused to break out, sand or ashes were thrown
on to make the nippers bite.
3122. Snaking donjcn the rigging. This was applied to backstays
before going into action, and was sometimes placed permanently
between the two parts of double topmast stays. For the latter pur-
pose a rope about half the diameter of the stay was staggered down
the stay and carefully seized at regular intervals.
3123. Clove Hitching was resorted to when there was insufficient
time for seizing. Snaking was an emergency expedient and seizing
I 5 <S ]
PRACTICAL MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP
was a slow process. In this case the rope was in short lengths for
easier handling, with an eye in one end to which the next length was
Lent with a Becket Hitch.
3124. Some of the older seamanship works picture snaking passed
with a round turn. In this case it would have to be stopped, other-
wise it would not hold if the rope parted. This latter method was
probably the quickest of all.
3125. There are, nowadays, many more or less mechanical ar-
rangements for bending sail, consisting of various metal slides and
snaps, but here we are particularly concerned with rope practice.
At the end of Chapter 1 6 , “Binding Knots,” are given a number
of Roband Hitches, which were formerly used in bending square
sails. The following practices are for gaffs and booms.
The most usual way of bending a sail to a gaff is with marline
seizings, consisting of several turns around the spar and boltrope with
crossing turns added. In large craft, small stuff is used in much the
same way. The number of turns may be few or many, depending en-
tirely on the relative sizes of the sail and the line. Square sails have
been bent in this way with two turns only, before jackstays came
into use.
3126. Bending with a single short piece of rope, passed through
an eyelet in the foot of a sail, and reef knotted below the boom, is
the oldest known method of bending a sail. Later the two parts were
seized together between the spar and boltrope.
3127. A Gloucesterman’s boom was usually bent in the fashion
shown here, with a lace line wrapped around and around, passing
through an eyelet hole at each circuit. Gaffs were also frequently
bent to in this same way.
3128. Both gaff and boom are often marled to the sail, and wire
boltrope is marled in a similar way to a square sail with small stuff.
3129. Lace line and screw eyes. This has been common practice
both in “pleasure boats” and small commercial craft for many years.
The screw eyes are in the boom and the sail is laced through eyelet
holes in the tabling or else to thimbles seized to the footrope.
3130. This is called a Foot Stopper or a Boom Stopper Knot.
With this contrivance, when on the wind, the foot of a sail is bent
to the boom. When off the wind, the Reef Knots are cast adrift and
the sail is loose-footed. So far as I know, its use is limited to small
British craft.
To tie the knot: A short strap, that is whipped at each end, is mid-
dled through an eyelet hole in the foot of the sail. Each end is thrust
through the lay of the other end, close up to the hole. The ends are
then reef knotted around the boom. This knot is also shown in
Chapter 16 .
*5 \ 27
r 519 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3131. The earliest mast hoop was a short spliced rope grommet,
and these are still in use among the fishermen of the West Indies
and elsewhere. The grommet is seized to the sail at the center of the
splice. Nowadays a light line is sometimes seized to the front of each
hoop, and at the top this is secured to the jaws of the gaff. The line
lifts the front of the hoops and lessens the danger of jamming. There
are two sets of crossing turns to the seizing, one at either side of the
boltrope. These are shown as #3132.
3132. Wooden mast hoops are still the common practice. Hoops
are also found on the head of a spanker, when the sail is run out on
the gaff and brailed to the mast when furled.
3133. A galvanized iron hoop seized with crossing turns around
all parts is common on fishing and other small commercial craft.
3134. This method of lacing a sail to the mast is pictured by Darcy
Lever in 1808.
3135. In out-of-the-way places, both in Europe and America, sails
are still laced to the mast of small craft. The best practice is to reeve
the lace line through cringles on the boltrope, but frequently they
lace through eyelet holes in the tabling. In either case the lace line
is seized in.
3136. A lace line on a ship’s staysail is seized as shown here.
3137. Luce and Ward’s Seamanship (1884) shows a similar prac-
tice. But in this case bridles of short length are fitted at one end
with a toggle and at the other end with an eye. Lace lines on stay-
sails should always be rove opposite to the lay of the stay, as they
are less apt to twist when the downhaul is pulled.
3138. Rope grommets were seized on staysail hoists before wooden
hanks appeared, which was about the middle of the eighteenth cen-
tury. These were rove on the stay while it was being rigged and
were seized in when the sails were bent as #3133.
3139. The wooden hank was a great improvement over the grom-
met, as it would run freely without jamming. It was made of hickory
or ash in America, of oak in England. Each end was notched and
it was seized as pictured. If one broke, a new one could be sprung
around the stay.
Wooden hanks are still used, but not often; galvanized iron ones
have taken their place.
3140. The earlier form of iron hank had the ends well spaced so
that a new one could be easily fitted. Seizing turns were taken on
the horns of the hook itself.
3141. It was found that iron hanks did not have to be replaced
often and, when they were, they could easily be sprung around
the stay. The shape was modified so that the seizing was simpler.
3142. 3143, 3144. On small-boat staysails, particularly on racing
craft, snap hooks of various patterns are used. Number 3142 is the
common everyday model, #3143 is found on racing sails and #3144
is the earlier form with a spring steel tongue.
3145. Storm trysails are sometimes fitted with beckets which tog-
gle to the mast. The beckets reeve through eyelet holes in the luff
and a round turn is seized in. These contrivances are quickly but-
toned into place without disturbing other gear on the mast.
3146. Fishermen have an iron-bound, half mast hoop which serves
a similar purpose. A bridle or span is seized into each eyelet hole of
the sail. When setting the sail, the bridles are either snapped to the
hoops or else they are secured with Becket Hitches.
3147. Most blocks nowadays are iron-bound, but rope-strapped
blocks are lighter and do less chafing against sails, spars, and rigging.
[ 520 ]
PRACTICAL MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP
The selvagee , salvagee or warped strap is a skein or coil of mar-
line or rope yarn that is laid up as smoothly as possible, generally
around two belaying pins, and then is marled over. Made in this
way, the strap is used to wrap around stays to hook a block to and,
being much softer than rope, it has a better cling. Small selvagees,
served or grafted over, are used for block straps. Large ones, simi-
larly made but not served, are used for cargo slings. They are soft
and pliant, and do not mar the cargo.
3148. A strap with a large eye is used for either toggling or lash-
ing. A block that is to be bent to a spar is fitted in this fashion with
a round seizing.
3149. A selvagee for a block strap is parceled and served over
(two processes described later in the chapter). This illustration shows
an old block, with selvagee strap, turned in with a throat seizing
(#3377 and #3411).
3150. A tail block is employed when making a tackle fast to stand-
ing rigging. A selvagee is doubled and served over at the center with
spun yarn and seized snugly around the block with a round seizing.
The yarns are opened and scraped down, so that the length tapers
very moderately to a point. It is then carefully marled (#3115). A
single tail should always be dogged with the lay.
3151. A similar tail block is made of Flat Sinnet. An ordinary
rope is first spliced snugly around the block as pictured. The ends
are stuck only once. They are then scraped down and a round seiz-
ing put on (# 3396). At six inches from the block, a snaked whipping
is put on (#3453) and then the rope is made into seven foxes, tapered
and platted.
3152. A double tail block may be made either selvagee-fashion or
of Flat Sinnet. The two tails are made as described for the single
tail (#3151).
3153. The oldest method of strapping a block, and one that is still
used, was with a Rigger’s Short Splice (#2648). The splice was
always placed at the breech of the block.
3154. A block with a thimble seized in the strap is termed an eye
block . On shipboard a thimble was seized in by means of a Spanish
windlass. The circumference of rope needed in making a strap is
approximately one fourth to one third of the length of the block. A
block strap that is over three and one half inches in circumference
should be wormed and parceled before being served. The length of
rope required for the strap is about one and one half times the round
of the block. One half a turn should be removed from the lay of the
rope before the ends are crotched. There should be four to seven
lower turns in an eye seizing, and one less riding turn. Methods of
seizing are given later in this chapter.
3155. Blocks are of two kinds: “made” blocks , of several pieces,
and “morticed” blocks , which are chiseled out of a single piece of
wood. The early name for the grooved wheel in a block was shiver
which, after 1627, was contracted to shiv, the name that is used at
present.
3156. The several parts of a made block are riveted together.
3157. A hook block. Nowadays all blocks are strapped with grom-
mets (#2864), selvagee straps being obsolete. When a grommet is
made for a hook block, it has to be made through the hole in the
hook.
3158. Jumpsurgee block is the old name for the block that Luce
calls a grafted block. Frequently they are grafted, only at the breech.
(See Splice #2678.)
51 SS'
Sh'w
SkcJJ
''Breath or
Swallow
n or
Coke
[521 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3 \ fcS
3 * 66
Blocks are spoken of as eye blocks , hook blocks or tail blocks
according to their equipment; as double , threefold or fourfold ac-
cording to their size; as inner and outer, upper and lower, or as work-
ing and load, according to their positions; and as fall or loose, accord-
ing to the lead of the fall. Ashore the latter are sometimes termed
the stationary and movable blocks.
3159. With a single-strapped block, the thimble and the shiv are
ordinarily at right angles to each other.
3160. Two single straps are used where great strength is needed
for heavy lifts.
*
3161. A double strap allows the thimble to lie in the same plane
with the shiv.
3162. A single strap with lashing eyes . These are to be seized or
lashed around a spar. An Eye Splice is made at either end of the
strap and the strap seized or lashed in place.
3163. Heavy blocks for the same purpose have a double strap.
3164. If a different lead is required, it may be provided with two
single straps.
3165. Clump blocks of the eighteenth century were turned on a
lathe before morticing. The strap shown here has a thimble seized in
at either end.
3166. For attaching the standing part of the fall to the block, a
becket of some sort must be added. Notches are made on the breech
of the block to admit the becket, which is at right angles to the strap.
The one shown here is a small grommet, which should be half the
diameter of the strap.
3167. An old way of fitting a block was with a double becket.
The block pictured is one of a white whalebone pair that were made
at sea about 1825 . The shells are six inches long and the selvagee
straps are grafted over. The becket in this case is a small grafted
grommet.
Straps were commonly served over, but sometimes they were cov-
ered with leather or canvas and sometimes they were grafted over,
'['his was to prevent chafe. But some authorities held that straps
should never be covered, as they were apt to rot inside and fail with-
out warning. In recent years, only hemp straps have been served
over.
3168. T he customary way of attaching the end of a fall to a block
is to eye splice it around the strap at the breech of the block. The
splice should be carefully tapered and served with spun yarn so that,
when the tackle is chockablock, the splice will not suffer.
[ 5 22 ]
PRACTICAL MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP
3169. To make the thimble of a single block lie in the plane of
the shiv, a throat seizing (#337 6 or #3410) is employed. The two
ends of a block are not interchangeable. Only one end is sufficiently
open for reeving the fall. In this case the fall is eye spliced to the
thimble at the breech of the block.
3170. A two-shiv block leads better if the standing part of the fall
is secured to the cheek. If it is not fitted with an offset becket, the
fall may be spliced around the eye or hook and seized to the strap
twice, at either end of the block.
3171. A quarter-tackle block strap is eye spliced around the block
and has a long pendant bearing a hook in the end.
3172. Swig blocks have no shivs and are used to set up on the lash-
ings of a whaleboat on the cranes. They resemble snatch blocks
without shivs.
3173. A topsail halyard block is seized into a long grommet with
a hook at the end.
3174. A pendant block strap is made with a Long Eye that is
seized around the block with a racking seizing (#3400).
3175. Span blocks for studding-sail halyards are lashed around
masts in pairs. The blocks are seized in with a round seizing (#3388).
3176. A sheet block pendant for jibs and staysails. The blocks are
eye spliced to the two ends of a pendant. One block is rove through
the clew and given a Becket Hitch, the knot is drawn up and
strongly seized, and the clew is seized close up to the knot. This was
shown by Lever (1808) and it is still in use today.
3177. Brace blocks are secured to stays with a seized Clove Hitch.
A small Mouse is raised on the stay and the hitch is seized above
it.
3178. A block with a collar is seized to a spar. The long leg is
hauled through the eye, laid back on its own part and seized in sev-
eral places according to its length.
3179. A “ strap-bound block ” is used on tacks, spritsail sheets, etc.
The block was made and strapped in this manner to minimize chafing
against the sails. The two ends of a strap were passed around the
breech of the block and up through the two holes. After seizing in,
the rope was opened and a Spritsail Sheet Knot tied in the six
strand ends. The knot was buttoned to the clew of a sail, after which
the clew was stopped.
3180. A button and eye strap , for quick adjustment to a spar.
Either a Matthew Walker Knot or a Manrope Knot may be used.
[ 5 2 3 J
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3t 9 \
3181. A clew line block is fitted with a toggle. The toggle is but-
toned to an eye, termed the clew, in the comer of the sail. It is a very
practical method of fitting a block. A similar block is often toggled
to pendants for various purposes. If to be left in place for any consid-
erable time, the eye may be closed with a seizing.
3182. The lower block of a whaler's cutting tackle is fitted with
long double straps which are rove through a hole cut in the blanket
piece (blubber), and the toggle is passed through a double thimble.
3183. A fid block for a studding-sail tack is toggled to a metal eye
in the end of a yard.
3184. A “heaving- down” block. The British equivalent would be
a “careening” block. I saw what was probably the last merchant ship
to be hove down in America. The 384-ton whaling bark Josephine
was hove down at Merrill’s Wharf, New Bedford, in 1893, there
being no railway in the neighborhood that could take her, and no
drydock available. Peter Black, an ancient master rigger, who in
the 1 840s had been the last to put the Constitution in active commis-
sion, resurrected his heaving-down tackle and, with no trouble at
all, and much saving of expense, the ship was hove down. She was
then breamed, scraped, caulked, payed, sheathed and coppered in
record time. The gear he used is pictured on page 530.
3185. A strap with a Long Eye, made with throat seizing #3411,
was often attached to a pendant bearing a toggle. The same shaped
strap was employed in 1808 on lower square-sail sheets. It passed
around the necks of the clews, and tacks were buttoned to the clews
with Tack Knots (#846).
3186. This method of strapping a three-shiv block is given by
Vial du Clairbois, in his Encyclopedic Methodique Marine (1787),
and it is also given by Roding (1795). It consists of three throat
seizings and an end seizing. Nowadays huge blocks such as this are
generally strapped as #3184.
3187. Sister blocks. Two independent tackles, or on occasions one
tackle and one bridle, are rove through the two ends 0/ a sister block.
This one is scored down one side and is to be seized to a shroud.
Shown by Lever (1808).
3188. Sister blocks with scores down both cheeks are seized be-
tween two forward shrouds below the topmast crosstrees and are
employed for the topsail lift and reef tackle.
3189. In the merchant service sister blocks may have but one shiv,
the other end having only a hole which takes a bridle. The strap
holds the shiv pin in place. It is hove taut around the shell by a seiz-
ing between the two halves.
3190. A fiddle block will lie flatter to a yard or mast than a double
block will.
3191. 3192. Shoe blocks have their shivs at right angles to each
other; #3191 is eighteenth-century and is double strapped; #3192
5 2 4 1
PRACTICAL MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP
is seventeenth-century. It is strapped through a hole between the
two shivs. Recently shoe blocks have been used for buntlines.
3193. A lower lift purchase with standing part strapped to the
block.
3194. Two straps may be quickly adjusted to a block in this man-
ner. If there is time they should be seized in.
3195. A Cut Splice with single block seized in.
3196. A pendant block of about 1600 is shown by R. C. Anderson
in his Treatise on Rigging (circa 1625).
3197. A double pendant block is given by Roding (1795). I do
not know its purpose. It may be a fair-leader.
3198. A block from Furttenbach (1629), representative of one of
the earliest types known. The standing part is knotted into the
breech. The shell is actually a block of wood which, of course, is
the origin of the name.
3199. A strap fitted with Stopper Knots from Roding (1795). A
lanyard was eye spliced around the neck of one of these Stoppers
and the block was lashed in the rigging just as Cable Stopper
#1765 is clapped on.
3200. The earliest way of strapping a block was to reeve it
through a hole in the upper end of the shell. The method is shown
by Furttenbach in 1629. The Stopper Knot used at this period would
probably be a wall upon a wall (#684).
3201. The early method of strapping, just described, is still em-
ployed on snatch blocks. I have one, incised “Bark America” on the
back, that dates from the first half of the nineteenth century. This
method of strapping is also used today on the blocks of tropical
jalousies and awning gear.
3202. Quarter blocks are double and have a round seizing. The
legs are of equal length, with eyes in each end which lash together
over the topgallant yard. The forward shiv takes the topgallant clew
line and the after one takes the royal sheet, according to Brady
(1841).
3203. A euphroe block has “many holes but no shivers” and is used
to extend the edge of an awning.
3204. To strap a reef tackle block: Make a grommet and seize in
two thimbles the width of the block apart. Notch the block deeply at
the breech and strap in the usual way. Reeve the fall through the
two thimbles. The purpose is to prevent reef earings and reef points
from fouling in the shivs.
3205. 3206. These are taken from Crescendo’s N antic a Medi-
terrania of 1607. Multi-shiv blocks were used to disperse the strain
of running rigging that was made fast to the stays. They served a
purpose similar to euphroe blocks (see #3276).
3207. This is a threefold block from Roding (1795).
A tackle (pronounced tai'cle at sea) is generally rove in the same
[525'J
|f 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
direction that a rope is coiled (clockwise). The blocks are placed
together on a clean deck and the bottom shivs are rove first. Appar-
ently the point is not considered important as, even on well-found
ships, tackles are rove in both ways.
Running rigging may be rove off by marrying the end of the new
rope to the old fall and hauling the new one through. Power is in-
creased by adding to the number of Shivs around which a rope
(called the fall) passes.
3208. A single whip is called a tackle, although it does not increase
the power.
On the accompanying diagrams, the figure placed on the weight
represents the increase of power at that point, no allowance being
made for loss by friction or otherwise. The figure i on the weight
means that the pull and the lift are equal.
3209. A runner is the same as a single w hip, reversed. The figure
2 means that the lift is double the effort spent.
3210. A single purchase . A purchase is a tackle that has the same
number of shivs in both blocks. With the fall leading to the upper
block of a purchase, the increase in power is always represented by
an even number.
3211. A gun tackle.
3212. A luff tackle.
3213. Luff tackle inverted.
3214. Double purchase (mechanically the same as long tackle
# 3232 ).
3215. Double tackle.
3216. Winding tackle. This is about the largest tackle commonly
found on sailing ships. It is used as a fish tackle (at the anchor) and
also as a cargo tackle. Lever ( 1808 ) gives it for a jear tackle and
Anderson ( 1625 ) gives the same thing for jears, except that the
standing part is bent to the yard instead of to the fall block, the
principle being the same. As each shiv added increases the time re-
quired to lift a load, blocks larger than are needed should be avoided.
On blocks with over two shivs, the standing part should lead to the
cheek of the block and not to the breech, as show n in # 3170 .
3217. Winding tackle reversed.
3218. Threefold or triple purchase.
3219. Threefold or triple tackle.
3220. Four-by-three tackle.
3221. Three-by-four tackle.
3222. Fourfold purchase.
3223. Fourfold or quadruple tackle.
Purchases of five and six shivs with steel w ire rope are used for
steamship cargo tackles. Ball or roller bearings are employed.
[ 5 26 1
PRACTICAL MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP
3224. Whip upon whip.
3225. A double whip.
3226. A sail tackle is used when bending sails. A fair-lead block is
seized to the lower block. Fair-leads are used with many tackles;
often they are snatch blocks (#3201), which are instantly remov-
able. They are secured wherever convenient, provided thev admit
of a proper exertion of power.
3227. Quarter tackle or yard tackle. This is attached to a yard
when needed to break out supplies. There is a
lower block.
3228. T opgallant halyard purchase.
3229. Watch tackle , handy -billy or tail tackle is a small luff tackle
with a tail on the fall block. This is always kept handy for any emer-
gency and may be bent to either rigging or yard. The tail is tapered
and platted or else made selvagee-fashion.
3230. Jiggers or jig tackles with double tails are used for the same
purpose and are also called handy-billies. They arc handy tackles
kept for odd jobs alow and aloft.
3231. A top burton is mechanically the same as the luff tackle.
The fiddle block allows the tackle to lie flat close to a spar.
3232. A long tackle. This also lies close to a spar and is for the
same purpose as the former, but has more power.
3233. The Spanish burton , single burton , or dory tackle is the
tackle with which Gloucestermen handle their dories. The upper
block may be fitted with either an eye, a hook or a tail. The tackle
is very economical of power but it is practical only for short lifts.
In running rigging the fall block is generally fitted with a thimble
and eye or a shackle. Tackles for occasional use are more apt to have
hooks.
Due to friction, the greatest strain is on the hauling part of the
rope in hoisting, but in lowering, it is on the standing part.
A tackle with eyes on both blocks is called an eye tackle. A tackle
with hooks on both blocks is called a hook tackle.
The power of a tackle may be computed by counting the number
of parts in the rope between the two blocks. If the pull is away from
the fall or lead block, the fall also is added to the total of parts. If
two tackles are compounded by hooking one to the fall of the other,
each tackle is counted separately and the two sums are multiplied
together. If there is any doubt (as there may well be when tackles
such as the burtons are elaborately compounded) it is an easy matter
to decide empirically. Lay out the tackle on the deck or floor and
secure the upper block. Overhaul (lengthen) the tackle several feet.
Put a stop for a marker on the fall where it leads from the block,
then measure the distance the marker moves in hauling the lower
block one foot. This will be the figure wanted. If it is six feet, the
power is one to six. At sea an allowance is made for loss of power of
from five to eight per cent for each shiv in the tackle.
long pendant to the
[ 5 2 7 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3233 y 2 . The double Spanish burton (i). The more common one,
3234. Double Spanish burton (2). The rarer one.
3235. Double Spanish burton (3). This is the same as the former,
except that the standing end is bent to a becket in the upper block,
instead of to a spar.
3236. The water whip is a light tackle, used when watering at sea.
As a ship is not under way when watering, a large crew' is available
and a large tackle is unnecessary. The casks are hoisted with the yard
^ w '
tackle, then are eased aboard with the stay tackle and lowered away
with both. The detail of the stay lashing or seizing is given as #1998.
3237. Luff upon luff. The main tackle is much heavier cordage
than the jigger.
3237yi. The Blackwall Hitch is commonly tied in the end of a
lanyard when setting up rigging.
3238. A tackle for setting up shrouds. This is the preferred method
for attaching lanyards which, being seldom adjusted, are apt to be
exceedingly stiff.
3239. An alternate method. Every boatswain is bound to employ
something a little different.
3240. Detail of the Lanyard Hitch shown in # 3238 .
3241. A method of setting up a mainstay or other large fore-and-
aft stay, a much heavier task than setting up a single shroud. After
[ 528]
PRACTICAL MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP
the stay is brought home, a racking seizing ($3362) is put on at the
bull’s-eye and then a number of round seizings are added, the num-
ber depending on the length of the doubling. The upper end of a
shroud or stay, where it passes over a top, is prepared in the rigging
loft. The lower block is secured to the end of the shroud with a
Bale Sling Hitch. The upper block is fitted with tails and the fair-
lead block is made fast to the mast.
3242. A fish tackle from Lever (1808). After the anchor has been
catted, the shank and flukes are hoisted with the fish tackle.
3243. A runner tackle is a luff or jig tackle added to the end of a
whip.
3244. Runner and tackle for setting up on a backstay. In heavy
lifting, a lead block is always advisable. In a straight downward
pull a man can haul no more than his own weight. In a short lifting
pull, he can exert several times that amount of power. From the lead
block the fall is usually led to a belaying pin and one man at the pin
rail takes up slack so that at no time is the load liable to get adrift.
3245. Throat halyard and jig tackle. On small and medium-sized
schooners, after a sail is hoisted and the halyard fall has been hauled
hand taut and belayed, a jig tackle on the standing end of the main
cackle is employed to send the halyard home.
3246. The peak halyards are treated in the same manner. On yachts
nowadays small winches have taken the place of many of the
heavier tackles, and also serve in place of jig tackles.
[ ?2Q 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3247. This was the whaling bark Sunbeam's “cutting tackle.”
There were two tackles which worked independently and alter-
nately, one blanket piece being hoisted while another was being low-
ered. The two single purchases shown at the top were guys to hold
the tackle over the main hatch and the two falls, at the left, led for-
ward to the windlass. Although the lift was exceedingly heavy and
the blocks and falls enormous, the power was provided by a wind-
lass, so a compounded tackle was unnecessary, the lift in this case
being only four times the pull.
3248. A double threefold purchase, for getting a gun, boiler or
other heavy weight aboard, was given in Knight’s Seamanship of
1908.
3249. A tackle that was shown by Bartolomeo Crescentio in 1 607.
There are four shivs to each block, but the fall is divided into two
hauling parts and two standing parts, so that the total power of the
tackle is only three to one.
3250. This is the heaving-down tackle with which Peter Black,
master rigger, hove down the bark Josephine in 1893. Although I
was a small boy at the time, I was tremendously interested in the
operation and the sketch given here is made from a photograph taken
at the time.
The lower three-shiv block is attached to a heaving-down post,
the details of which are given as #2017. The upper block is sus-
pended from the main top. The shell of the fall block is in my own
collection and measures 24" X 1 954" X 19 54". It took from four to
six hands to man each of the four arms of the heaving-down winch.
The fall runs from a lead block at the base of the heaving-down
post to the winch, and the standing end is made fast at the foot of
the mainmast. The increase of power is nine times the force exerted
at the winch. The shrouds at the starboard side are reinforced with
chains.
Peter Black was the last rigger to fit out the U.S.S. Constitution
for sea duty. There was no better rigger than he, so it is interesting
to see that his tackle is rigged so that there is friction between the
two back leads at the left. It would seem that the methods of reev-
ing large blocks used nowadays and (shown on the next two pages)
[ 53c ]
PRACTICAL MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP
were not widely known in 1893 . The earliest record I have found of
the method on page 531 is in Axel S. Blomgren’s Seamanship (Stock-
holm, 1923 ). He gives the threefold purchase. Knight, in 1908 , gives
a threefold purchase by the method on page 532 .
3251-57. With a three-shiv, or larger, block much is gained by
having the fall lead to the center shiv. If led to an end shiv, the block
will cant, so that the fall will chafe against the shell. The tackles
described on this page are sometimes termed u right-angle tackles.”
Numbers 3251 and 3253 are the only ones I have ever seen described
or in use, but in case someone should have occasion to employ some-
thing else I have rounded out the series up to five shivs. The propor-
tions of the blocks are exaggerated and the details eliminated to make
the lead of the fall clearer to the eye. The shivs are numbered with-
out being drawn. So if the falls are rove in rotation as numbered,
the working end will always lead to the center shiv (which is most
’esirable). The general rule is to reeve at the fall block from the
center outward and at the lower block to reeve from the outside
inward. The cycle in each case is from the innermost shiv to an
outermost shiv to the innermost remaining shiv, to the outermost
remaining shiv, etc.
3258. This fivefold purchase presents a variation from the rule
just given. The working end is led each time to the innermost vacant
>hiv until all are full. This might prove the more practical way, but
on paper an adherence to the rule given above promises better.
For very heavy lifts, hooks on blocks are seldom used. Double
eye straps are preferable, and these may be either lashed or toggled.
3251. Luff tackle (equivalent).
3252. Double purchase.
3253. Winding tackle (equivalent).
3254. Threefold or triple purchase.
3255. Four-by-three shiv tackle.
3256. Fourfold purchase.
3257. Five-by-four shiv tackle.
3258. Fivefold purchase.
V
(531 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3259. Smeaton’s blocks. A tenfold purchase. I once saw a drawing
of this with the name attached and that is all I know about it. The
larger the number of shivs, the less efficient is the block. If the nau-
tical rule of subtraction, for loss by friction, is applied, by the time
the becket is reached, at the higher figure of eight per cent per shiv,
a hundred and sixty per cent of the power will have been expended,
which is excessive, and if we apply the lower figure of five per
cent per shiv, exactly one hundred per cent has gone. That is to say,
there might not be enough power left when the standing part is
reached to take up the slack. It would, moreover, take twenty min-
utes to move a load that, with a whip, could be moved in one minute.
If, however, the shivs have ball bearings (which they probably
have) and steel rope is used (which is undoubtedly what was
planned), the figures would be quite different.
3260. By the method here shown, tackles may be rove with the
two blocks in the same plane and with the fall invariably leading to
a central shiv. Axel S. Blomgren, in his Seamanship (Stockholm,
1923 ), shows 3262 . I have not seen the method published else-
where. I have tried out #3261 with a farm tackle and found it satis-
factory.
3260. Double purchase.
3261. Winding tackle (equivalent).
3262. Threefold purchase.
3263. Four-by-three shiv tackle.
3264. Fourfold purchase.
3265. Five-by-four shiv tackle.
3266. Fivefold purchase.
3267. Mousing a hook. If any considerable load is to be put on a
block, the hook should be moused. A length of marline is doubled
and a Bale Sling Hitch put over the bill which is slipped to the
back of the hook. A number of turns are taken around the back and
bill, the ends being led in opposite circuits. Cross the ends while
there is still material and put on tight frapping turns in both direc-
tions from the center. Then add riding turns back to the center and
finish off with a Reef Knot. This serves the double purpose of
strengthening the hook and preventing the hook from spilling.
3268. The names of the different parts of a hook are noted in the
diagram opposite.
3269. A mousing of five or six turns of marline. Cross the ends at
the middle and, using both ends, add frapping turns to the end of
[ 5 3 2 ]
PRACTICAL MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP
the mousing. Stick the ends through the middle of the mousing
turns and tic an Overhand Knot in each end.
3270. Nowadays hooks are often moused with wire. Frapping
turns are added and riding turns may he put on if desired but are
usually omitted. Without frapping turns there would he no tension
on the wire and consequently no support to the hook until it starts
to straighten.
To make: Double the wire and, without knotting, lead the ends
around the neck of the hook, lay them up together and take a num-
ber of turns around the neck and the bill, pulling each turn as taut
as possible. At the last turn lead the ends to the back of the hook
around opposite sides and twist them up together. Cut off the ends
and hammer them down and out of the way.
I have seen frapping turns of marline added to a wire mousing of
the sort just described.
3271. Sister hooks are used for a variety of purposes. They are
often found on lightweight jib sheets. Ordinarily they are stopped
with a number of round turns and a Reef Knot.
3272. If a shackle of the right size can be found it will prove
stronger than a mousing but it should fit very snugly.
3273. A crowfoot, spread along the front rim of the fore and main
tops and leading to a tackle on the stay, was common in the days
of single topsails to prevent the foot of the sails fouling in the tops.
3274. The crowfoot nowadays is used to spread awnings and
canvas swimming pools on shipboard. In circuses it is indispensable
for spreading safety nets under trapeze performers. A euphroe block,
also called a centipede block, is used to dissipate the lines of the
crowfoot.
3275. The drawing shows a crowfoot at the head of a lateen
yard. From Furttenbach (1629). In this period blocks with shivs,
instead of euphroes, were used.
3276. Before staysails came into use in the eighteenth century,
double mainstays were sometimes led to the forward shrouds and
secured with a crowfoot at either side. This left the space above the
main hatch clear.
3277. Catharpins stiffened the backstays by frapping them to the
tops, and were a variety of crowfoot. The ends were eye spliced and
seized similarly to ratlines (#3438). Sometimes they had a euphroe
block, at other times they were merely lashed. Catharpins were still
to be seen occasionally at the turn of the present century.
! 513 1
PRACTICAL MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP
3295 . The illustration represents the bronze deadeyes of a Viking
ship. They are borrowed from Konijnenburg’s Ship Building from
Its Beginnings (Brussels, N.D.).
3296 . Anderson, in his Treatise on Rigging (circa 1625), pictures
a deadeye of four holes. The French Manuel de Manoeuvrier (Paris,
1891) gives exactly the same deadeye and a method of reeving and
setting up. With more than three turns a lanyard is always hauled
at both ends, so there is no Lanyard Knot and the ends are seized
to adjacent parts. In a modem French lanyard the center is secured
with a Ring Hitch below the lower deadeye.
3297 . Bartolemeo Crescendo in his Nautica Mediterrania (Rome,
1607), in an illustration of the battle of Lepanto (1571) pictures dead-
eyes almost identical with those of the present day. They are differ-
ently turned in, however. The upper one has an eye strap which tog-
gles to the shroud. Artinano gives a reproduction of a picture of 1 498
and another of 1504, both presumably contemporary, which show
the usual three-hole deadeye. A painting by Pieter Breughel, dated
1564, appears to show ordinary three-hole deadeyes without the
toggles.
3298 . In early small craft, where masts and rigging were struck
whenever sails were lowered, it was the custom to set up stays with
shiv blocks instead of deadeyes. Dutch boats of the present day are
rigged in this way. The illustration showing blocks is from a photo-
graph of the stone monument to Saint Peter Martyr by Giovanni di
Balduccio in the Basilica Sant’ Eustorgio at Milan. The monument
was completed in 1339.
3299 . This was a common way of setting up the backstays of a
whaleboat. Whaleboat stays have to be let go instantly, so lanyards
are always secured with a Slipped Hitch.
3300 . An earlier whaleboat lanyard having the white whalebone
bull’s-eye (#3283).
3301 . A white whalebone heart (#3284). This appears too com-
plicated for a whaleboat backstay lashing and it may have belonged
to a whaleboat’s gripe.
3302 . A rigging stopper or a fighting stopper was employed to
repair a shroud or other stay that was carried away in action. Each
deadeye was strapped with two tails. A long lanyard was rove with
a knotted Eye Splice at each end (see #2781, #2782, or #2783).
After the tail was stopped at either end of the wounded rigging a
tackle was hooked to the handiest eye; and the other knotted eye
acted as a Lanyard Knot.
3303 . The eyes of the jib sheets and the clew of the sail were
lashed in this manner so that the sheets would lead fair.
3304 . A round-turn lashing. This generally starts with an Eye
Splice in the lanyard to a thimble or eye in the stay; after a number
of frapping turns have been added to the round turns, the end is
secured under the last few turns.
3305 . A cross-turn lashing (the name is from Steel, 1794; Biddle-
comb calls it a cross lashing) is made with a series of racking turns.
It is started either with an Eye Splice or else a Running Eye and
finished off with frapping turns. Rope jackstays were formerly
lashed together at the center of the yard in this way.
3306 . A common practice on small commercial boats is to finish
off the backstay lashing with a series of Half Hitches instead of
frapping turns.
[535 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3307. The Four-Strand Lanyard Knot (A) is used at the dead-
eyes in the lower rigging ($688). 1 he Matthew Walker Knot
(B) is used aloft and elsewhere ($682).
3308. In wire rigging, where no considerable stretch is to be
allowed for, wire Eye Splices are not uncommonly used around
deadeyes and hearts .
3309. Royal backstays and topgallant mast shrouds generally have
no lanyards and many of the upper fore-and-aft stays are rove
through iron- strapped bulFs-eyes and doubled back with a racking
seizing.
3310. A throat seizing has been the preferred method of turning
in deadeyes on American ships since the middle of the eighteenth
century. In the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries a round seizing
appears to have been used. Seizings will be described later in this
chapter. The turn around the deadeye should always be right-handed
as illustrated, except when cable-laid rigging is used. The end should
alwavs be inboard.
3311. Fore stay lanyards of 1891 (from the Manual of the Sea of
that date) are rove through hearts. Any lanyard lashing with four
turns or over should be set up at both ends.
Four turns having been taken, the lanyards are set up with two
tackles and held with stops while seizings are added. Riding turns
are put on the seizings. The two lanyard ends are cut off where
they meet and are carefully whipped. Three or four seizings are put
on each lashing.
3312. A heart lashing in the bowsprit rigging is sometimes started
at the outer end with a Long Running Eye and the working end is
seized directly to the turns without the addition of a Cow Hitch.
3313. To reeve the lanyard of a jib-boom guy: The end of a lan-
yard in a heart lashing is made fast with an Eye Splice to the inner
heart and is brought up through the outer heart. After three turns
a Cow Hitch ($1673) is taken around the neck of the iron strap
and the end is seized in as illustrated.
3314. Steel, in 1794, describes as contemporary practice the fol-
lowing. The end of the lanyard, after setting up for a full due, is
seized or stopped with racking turns as $3362. The end is then rove
outward over the upper deadeye and under the throat seizing and
there hitched. It is then expended with round turns around the
doubling of the shroud. The end is stopped with spun yarn to the
shroud.
3315. The way in which the Cow Hitch was taken with a cutter-
turned deadeye is shown here and also a way of attaching the stand-
ing end of the lanyard to an eyebolt fixed to the channel; a method
that was highly thought of in the 1880s, but soon went out of prac-
tice. Boyd (1857) described a practice of securing the standing end
of a lanyard with a Running Eye round the neck of the lower dead-
eye. Nares, in 1874, shows the lanyard secured with a round turn,
which is obviously bad as the lanyard would have a tendency to
work down and fetch against the end seizings.
3316. A double main topmast stay that was secured to the Samson
post or Samson knee, forward of the foremast. More often than not,
no lanyards were used here, the ends of the stay being rove through a
* 9
[ 536 1
PRACTICAL MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP
buil’s-eye as pictured in #3309 and #3358. The Samson post pro-
vided a step for the bowsprit and held the pawls of the windlass in
the earlier part of the nineteenth century. The more common bow-
sprit bitts served the same purpose but were double instead of single
posts.
3317. Lanyards are rove in the same direction that rope is coiled
(right-handed). The standing end is knotted at the inboard side of
the left hole of the upper deadeye. On square-rigged vessels lanyard
stuff for all lower rigging is four-strand tarred hemp, in diameter one
half the diameter of the shroud or stay that it leads to. Topmast
lanyards are three-strand stuff.
w
On some smart naval craft the knots were at the forward hole of
the deadeye on both sides of the ship, left-laid rigging being used
on the port side. If cable-laid rigging was used, all the knots were on
the right side of the deadeye.
The common way of securing the end of a lanyard in hemp rig-
ging. A Cow Hitch is taken around the doubled shroud above the
shear pole and the end is carried down and seized three times be-
tween two standing parts.
3318. This is a common Lanyard Hitch since the advent of wire
rigging. The hemp lanyard should be very little smaller than the
size of the wire rigging itself. The greater bother of adjusting hemp
lanyards is more than offset by their greater elasticity and in times
of stress they can easily be chopped away. Today they are much
preferred on power fishermen, particularly on swordfishermen, be-
cause the stiffness of wire rigging makes the lookout a most un-
comfortable perch.
3319. To scow a grapnel. This method is used in small-boat fish-
ing on rocky bottom. If the grapnel fouls and refuses to break out,
the stop will part and free it. The roding or warp is led tightly
around the crotch and is stopped to the ring with a single rope yarn.
When the stop parts, the flukes are lifted and the grapnel breaks out.
3320. To crown or scow an anchor . This is similar in principle to
the foregoing but the warp is made fast to the crown of the anchor
with a Clove Hitch which may be seized in. Haul taut and stop to
the ring with a single rope yarn if the anchor is not a heavy one.
Ansted, A Dictionary of Sea Terms (Glasgow, 1917), calls this
“becueing an anchor.”
3321. A rider for a cable . If your cable is short and you are riding
uncomfortably, make a grommet of some sort, of either wire, rope
or an old mast hoop, and tie a bag of sand or any other available
weight to it and allow it to slide down the cable for a length a little
greater than your depth.
3322. To secure a buoy rope . The commonest way is as shown,
a Clove Hitch at the crown, three seizings and a Buoy Rope Knot
(#719) on the shank. This is from Lever (1808).
3323. A better Buoy Rope Hitch is described by Hutchinson
(1744), who says, “It takes much less rope than the clumsy method
of a clove hitch.” In the days before power capstans and windlasses
it was often necessary to break out an anchor with a buoy rope, a
method which requires far less effort than tripping with the cable
alone.
[ 537 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3324. A Buoy Rope Hitch from Brady (New York, 1841 ). Brady
gives a method of making fast to the crown of the anchor without
leading the end up the shank. A Running Eye Splice is put around
one arm, a Single Hitch is taken around the other arm, and the
hitch is seized “in the cross.’’
3325. The following is a method of boating anchors , employed
when kedging ship, before the days of steam. The anchor was low-
ered into the water by the tackles shown. The boat was drifted over
the anchor, and the anchor was toggled to the boat by straps around
her midship section. The tackles having been removed, the boat was
pulled out ahead of the ship and the anchor dropped by driving out
the toggle.
3326. A mooring buoy of 1750 was made of a section of an old
mast or spar. The buoy rope bore a Spritsail Sheet Knot.
3327. To strap a buoy . Buoys were formerly made caskwise by
a cooper. It is only since the days of Galvin that iron buoys have
proved universally practical. Two grommets were made to pass
around the buoy, halfway from the center to the end. Four straps of
equal length were made with Eye Splices in each end. The straps,
two for each end, were seized to the grommets. The grommets were
driven taut and double beckets were seized into the bights of the
straps at each end of the buoy. All crossings were seized.
3328. Six straps of equal length were cut and two sets of three
were stopped together at the middle. The ends of each set were side
spliced to the opposite straps and triple beckets were seized in at each
end of the buoy.
3329. A nun buoy strap was tightened by seizing in the eyes. A
nun buoy had a head similar to a hogshead or cask. It was used for a
channel marker as well as for an anchor buoy.
3330. This one is tightened by seizing different parts together.
Two straps are employed, which makes a Double Eye at each end.
The eyes are seized in and served.
3331. An ordinary keg serves as a swordfish or a seine buoy. Two
grommets are used for hoops and a line is snaked to the grommets
around the body of the keg, being either seized or clove hitched to
them. A short bridle is eye spliced and seized to the grommets and
also has a thimble seized in at the center, to which the buoy line is
bent.
3332. Posts and bollards on wharfs are never placed twice alike,
so there is considerable variety in the ways of tying up, though the
principle is always the same. This shows a boat tied up with a bow
line, stern line and a forward spring line. This triangulates the moor-
ing.
3333. A boat with the same gear but with the addition of a breast
line . The spring line in this case leads aft.
3334. Three fishermen are here tied up abreast, with breast lines
at the quarters to hold them against wind and current. There is a
tacit understanding that boats anchored alongside each other must
each have at least one line to shore.
[538]
PRACTICAL MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP
3335. A boat with crossed spring lines.
The greater the fall and rise of the tide, the farther apart the posts
must be and the nearer parallel with the wharf the warps must lead.
The warps or lines must form triangles, with either the wharf or the
boat acting as one side of each triangle. Larger vessels require more
lines of the same sort along the middle length. Otherwise the prin-
ciple of tying up is the same.
3336. Manropes, yoke ropes, etc., are canvas-covered and then
wormed over the canvas with fishline. This is hove in as described
below, and Narrow Turk’s-Heads of fishline are added at intervals
of every two or three feet, wherever there is a joint in the canvas.
Very small rope is parceled without being wormed.
3337. Worming . Large standing rigging is always wormed before
parceling, the purpose being to fill all cracks and keep out moisture. If
worming is put in for a short distance only, it may be hove in suffi-
ciently by hand, providing there is a helper to open the lay slightly.
A large rope may be opened by means of a heaver (# 2718 ). When
any considerable length is to be wormed, however, the rope is first
stretched with a tackle or winch and secured in the loft about waist-
high. The worming is laid in by hand and pulled hand taut. Then a
medium-sized serving mallet is taken and fitted with a tail or tails,
called “trailors,” which may be either of sinnet or the single strand
of a large rope. The tails are secured to the handle with a Running Eye
or a Bale Sling Hitch. With this apparatus, heave in the worming;
the pull of the trailor does the entire work of tightening. All ends are
then stopped. Most rigging is four-strand and requires four pieces
or parts of worming. The length of material needed is about once
and a half the length of the stay that is to be wormed. Where a stay is
to be turned in around a thimble or eye, the worming must be slack,
otherwise it may part. Worming, parceling and service in standing
rigging are always put on with materials well soaked in rigging
tar.
3338. Sister worming , also called backing and side worming .
Cable-laid rigging has large cuntlines and the worming requires
backing with smaller stuff at either side. This can generally be put
in by hand alone. Four-strand cable has sometimes been used for
large fore-and-aft stays.
3339. Parceling at sea is made of old canvas, preferably cut up in
long strips. It is soaked in rigger’s tar and put on snugly in the man-
ner of a bandage, always with the lay of the stay. It must also be put
on from the bottom upward so that the parts will overlap as shingles
do and tend to keep out moisture. But if parceling is not to be served ,
it should be put on against the lay.
3340. Parceling at sea is often made of old bits of canvas closely
marled to hold it in place while being served.
3341. Link worming. In the days of hemp cables link worming
was used on very rocky bottom. Three small chains, each about
fifteen fathoms long, were shackled to the anchor ring and wormed
in the manner described for rope. The cable was stopped at frequent
intervals and was seized at the ends of the chains.
3*538
V \ \ \ s. \ V x \ *
3339
334o
[ 539 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3350
3 3S l
3342. Service is applied to standing rigging to protect it from
wear and weather. After worming and parceling it is tightly bound
with well-tarred spun yarn or marline. Service is started by taking
two or three turns by hand over the rope and drawing them taut
with a marlingspike. The rigger’s mallet then takes over the work.
3343. When the job is completed the end is rove under the last
three or four turns and all is hove taut with the marlingspike, when
both ends arc trimmed. Whenever necessary another piece of service
is bent on with either Splice #2680 or Bends # 1480 and #1485.
3344. For applying service a tool called a serving tnallet is re-
quired. A large one with a reel is pictured in the heading of this
chapter. Formerly a rigger’s apprentice or helper with a large ball
of marline walked backward, ahead of the rigger, and passed the ball
around the stay at the same time the rigger revolved his mallet. The
marline was passed several times around the head of the mallet and
then a number of times around the handle. The friction on the head
and handle was regulated by the number of the turns that were
taken. And the number of the turns decided the tightness of the
service. Serving turns were always passed contrary to the lav of the
rope, so that as the rope stretched in use the service tended to tighten
rather than slacken. A swifter (the foremost shroud) was served its
full length, as it took most of the chafe of the sail. The remaining
shrouds were served one third down to take the wear of the yard.
In very early days the swifter was the aftermost shroud.
3345. Nowadays smaller mallets and reels are used that do away
with the need of a helper. The one pictured consists of a brass plate
with several holes drilled through it, and with spring-steel jaws to
provide tension for the reel.
3346. For Eye Splices a “ serving stick ” is often used.
3347. Riggers and sailors commonly use a serving board for eyes.
3348. But marlingspike service is required for very small eyes and
also when repairing broken service. A Marlingspike Hitch is taken
over the point and the hitch is drawn taut by prying against the rope.
T his hitch is quickly made by the method shown as #2030 (“Occa-
sional Knots”). Photographs of old serving tools are shown among
the frontispieces.
3349. Grapevine service consists of a series of hitches, all being in
the same direction. Esparteiro shows it made with two lines hitched
on opposite sides, which he terms “d'Americtma”
3350. Rounding . This is service of old rope, formerly put on
ships’ cables, to prevent chafe at the hawse holes. Nowadays the same
thing is used by fishermen on flounder gear. It is patched as soon as
worn through, so it is generally most untidy but very efficient. The
ends of rounding are sometimes tucked through the strands of the
rope that is being covered. It is tightened with a heaver (#2023).
When dragged constantly over rough bottom in one direction,
rounding will wear with the saw-tooth effect that is pictured.
3351. Cackling or kackling. A three-inch rope was sometimes
wormed along a single cuntline of the ship’s cable to protect it at
the anchor ring and at the hawse pipe.
Ropes that are bound together or to other objects, more or less
permanently, are said to be seized. Ordinary riggefs seizings are
made with warline , large seizings with small stuff. Saibnaker's seiz-
ings are of sail twine.
Seizings require less material than knots and splices; they have
little give and little tendency to mark and injure the rope.
[ 540 1
PRACTICAL MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP
3352. The end of a shroud or stay is capped with metal or tarred
canvas to protect it from the weather.
3353-57. An end seizing (# 3353 ) is often a rigger 7 s stopping
(# 3380 ), which has no crossing turns. The upper seizing (# 3354 )
is sometimes made as a flat seizing (without riding turns), # 3383 . As
many as five seizings may be used on a fore-and-aft stay; #3355 is a
middle seizing; #3356 is a quarter seizing; and #3357 a n eye seizing .
All of these may be round seizings except the eye seizing, which is
generally a throat (# 3410 ) or a round seizing (# 3388 ); less often
it is a racking seizing (# 3400 ).
3358. The drawing illustrates a bull’s-eye seized in with a double
racking seizing (# 3401 ), which is best for wire. Although a throat
seizing (# 3410 ) has been favored since the middle of the eighteenth
century for deadeyes, the round seizing is the earlier practice.
3359. Spun yarn or marline seizings are started with Tucked Eye
# 2772 , the end of which is gripped by the next few turns.
3360. Seizings of small stuff are started with an Eye Splice
(# 2725 ), with long ends that are tucked once only.
3361. Round turns. If a Tucked Eye is used, the turns are care-
fully laid over the end to hold it. A Spliced Eye is generally tucked
but once, the ends being held by the turns. The turns of a seizing
should always be taken contrary to the lay of the rope, and each turn
is hove taut with a marlingspike.
3362. Racking turns are often used on wire rope.
3363. Double racking turns are used when there is need of haste.
3364. Riding turns , or riders , form a second layer of service on
top of the first layer or under turns. The riders are always one less
in number than the under turns, and are not set up so hard, in order
not to disturb the under turns.
3365. Crossing turns are added to take up slack.
3366. 3367. Patent deadeyes for wire rigging were invented in the
early seventies; the stay was turned in around a thimble and held
with five seizings. They were soon superseded by turnbuckles.
3368. Cross or right-angle seizings are employed for seizing bat-
tens which sometimes take the place of ratlines, and for securing
mast hoops.
3369. An X seizing has the same number of turns in each diagonal.
It is completed with crossing turns and finished off with Seizing
Hitch # 3390 .
3370. Figure-eight turns may be used either with or without
crossing turns. Similar turns may be added on the opposite side of
the seizing, one set being horizontal, the other vertical. These are
often found on the battens of a swordfisherman’s shrouds.
3371. Frapping turns are added with a needle to the face of a
figure-eight seizing.
3372. A Transom Knot serves the same purpose.
3373. Flat seizing (# 3383 ) is frequently used as an end seizing.
3374. Round seizing (# 3388 ) is the usual middle seizing of a
shroud end.
3375. A quarter seizing is commonly put in as a round seizing.
3376. The throat seizing is used when turning in a shroud
(#34 10 )-
3377. Shear poles are secured to the shroud doublings with flat
seizings (# 3383 ).
[ 54 1 3
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3378. Ordinary stopping consists of a number of round turns,
with the two ends tied together.
3379. The Square or Reef Knot is used to finish off a stopping.
3380. A rigger’s stopping differs from a seizing only in having no
crossing turns. A layer of riding turns is added that is one less than
the number of under turns. Riding turns are put on only hand
taut; when the last one has been added the end is stuck down through
the initial eye between the two layers of turns, and up to the surface
under two turns. It is finished off either with a Wall Knot or an
Overhand Knot, according to the size of the seizing stuff.
3381. The Wall Knot is tied in the ends of small-stuff seizings.
3382. The Overhand Knot is tied in spun yam and marline seiz-
ings.
3383. The fiat seizing has no riding turns . When sufficient lower
turns are taken the end is tucked down and brought up through the
eye. Crossing turns are taken and a Flat Knot (#3385) added.
3384. A seizing of small stuff is started with an Eye Splice, tucked
once only, and with the ends “trimmed long.”
3385. The Flat Knot is used in finishing off small seizings; it is
sometimes wrongly called a Square Knot.
3386. A lanyard seizing passes around three parts of the rope. Two
sets of crossing turns are made with the two ends of the seizing and
are finished off between the parts of the lanyard with an Overhand
Knot.
3387. A Two-Strand Eye Splice (# 2770 ) is used in starting a
marline seizing. The ends are tucked but once and are then buried
carefully under the turns of the seizing.
3388. The round seizing ( 1 ). This is the most common and practi-
cal seizing for general purposes. Make eight or ten lower turns
toward the eye. When the riders, one less in number than the
lower turns, have been added, the end is stuck down through the
initial Eye Splice and two crossing turns are added. The back of the
knot is shown in the fourth and fifth illustrations. Finally bring the
end up between the two crossing turns and under two turns and
finish off with a Wall Knot, or if the seizing is of yarn or marline,
make an Overhand or else a Flat Knot ($ 3385 ).
3389. This knot, closely related to # 3385 , has the loop underneath
and the end differently disposed.
3390. The Seizing Hitch is often, wrongly, called Clove Hitch.
3391. The round seizing, finished off with a Flat Knot.
3392. A Seizing Knot that is shown by Ohrvall in Om Knutar
is closely related to the Flat Knot (#3385).
3393. A stopping is often finished off in a way similar to a whip-
ping. This is not a very good stopping, although it does very well for
starting service. The ends of the eye are secured as in # 3361 .
3394. The round seizing ( 2 ). Put on eight or ten turns, starting
at the bottom. At the top, pass the end down underneath all turns to
the bottom again and stick it up through the Eye Splice. Add seven
or nine riders and stick the end down below the top under turn . Add
crossing turns and finish off with Seizing Hitch # 3390 .
3395. Small seizings either with or without riders are commonly
finished off with the Seizing Hitch (#3390). Generally an Over-
hand Knot is tied in the end.
3396 . A wire Eye Splice is always served and seized. The turns are
started at the neck. When they have reached the thimble, the end
is shoved through from front to back, several of the last turns are
crossed, and the end is rove through again, this time from back to
[ 54 2 ]
PRACTICAL MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP
front. When there are three crossing parts on the back and two
on the front, the turns are knotted with a Flat Knot (#3385).
3397. The clews of square sails originally were a part of the bolt-
rope, and were seized in with a short round seizing. Fourteen turns
were allowed for the eye.
3398. A double strapped block had a “double crossed” round
seizing.
3399. To seize in a thimble by hand. Stop the cringle with marline
or small stuff at the breast of the eye with several round turns, and
hold it in a vise with the legs uppermost. With racking turns heave
the eye around the thimble. Put on a round seizing. If the rope is
large, a Spanish windlass (#2024) may be required.
3400. Racking seizings are always used with wire rigging or
wherever excessive strain is expected. The under turns are racked
and set up with a marlingspike. The riders are set up hand taut and
crossing turns are added. Finish off as a round seizing.
3401. Double racking seizing ; When sufficient turns have been
taken, stick the parallel ends out to the surface at the center. Take
riding turns with each end away from the center and lead ends
underneath and back to center. Add crossing turns with the ends in
opposite directions. Tie a Wall in each end, on opposite sides.
3402. A lineman's seizing is made of “electric tape.”
3403. When a Cut Splice was not served over it was seized. Be-
ginning with round turns at the neck, it was finished off at both ends
with racking turns through the crotch.
3404. A single or simple clinch is also called single throat seizing,
pigtail and 'Monkey's tail when used as a stopper. It has neither
riders nor crossing turns and the ends are secured as in ^ 3 393-
Pigtails are put in running rigging about ten feet from the ends to
prevent unreeving at the fair-leader racks.
3405. A “half a crown ” is put in the middle of the back ropes and
passes around the end of the dolphin striker. It has both riding turns
and crossing turns.
3406. A Cuckold’s Neck is a Seized Eye without riding turns, but
with crossing turns; it is to be found in jib and staysail pendants,
bridles for various purposes, and in can-hook straps.
3407. An Inside Clinch has two or three round seizings (#3395),
which are termed “bends.” Formerly the Running Clinch was
the conventional method for bending a cable to the bower anchor.
It was also used in making fast buntlines and in securing bowline
bridles to the cringles.
3408. The Outside Clinch was sometimes used on an anchor, or
“on any rope you wish to let go smartly,” but the Inside Clinch
was safer. Any clinch, to be safe, must be smaller than the ring or
cringle to which it is bent.
3409. A nineteenth-century forestay collar was placed around the
bowsprit and was lashed to the ends of a double forestay.
3410. A throat seizing is a seized round turn. It is used when turn-
ing in deadeyes, and has riding turns but no crossing turns. The end
of the stay or shroud should first be stopped around the deadeye
as shown. At sea a Spanish windlass (#2024) is generally used for
the purpose. Ashore rigging screws and vises are employed.
3411. Single crossing turns are sometimes added to one side of
the seizing of a Cuckold’s Neck (#3406). This was done with a
marling needle, on the inner side of the seizing only.
3412. In the nineteenth century a throat seizing was sometimes
used for strapping blocks. The crossing turns were taken only in
[ 543 ]
3396
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
the upper half of the seizing. A sail needle or marling needle was
used, and the seizing is similar to # 3411 .
3413. A rose seizing , or rose lashing ( 1 ), is used when blocks or
stays are to be lashed to spars. The eyes are lashed with racking turns
and, in finishing off, the end of the seizing is passed alternately over
and under each part and when the rope has been expended the two
ends are reef knotted together.
3414. Rose seizing or rose lashing ( 2 ). For securing a stay. This is
similar to the last except that, in expending the two ends, they spiral
in the same direction and pass between the layers of racking turns,
one outside the other. They are finished off with two Wall Knots.
3415. To suspend jear blocks, for supporting a lower yard: Two
stop cleats were nailed to the mast, screws not being used in the last
century. The eye of each block was then lashed separately as de-
picted.
3416. A garland is a heavy selvagee strap that serves as a sling;
it is lashed around a lower or top mast when it is to be hoisted.
Shears are first put in place, then the garland is lashed with a series
of turns, beginning at the bottom. The upper turn is led to the
bottom and the two ends are throat seized together twice (# 3410 ).
The tackle block should be toggled, not hooked, to the garland,
as a hook is not strong enough for so heavy a lift.
3417. A French garland is for the same purpose. The toggle pre-
vents the garland from rendering. The tackle block is toggled to the
eye shown above the lashing. Both garlands are pictured in Luce’s
Seamanship,
3418. A block lashing for a derrick arm is given by Knight. Cleats
are nailed to the derrick arm and the eye of the block strap is lashed
with racking turns.
3419. A mast cleat from Lever ( 1808 ). (See # 1630 .)
3420. A galvanized iron shroud cleat is lashed as pictured, 'without
crossing turns.
3421. Seizing trucks or fair-leaders are lashed here and there in the
rigging, generally to the shrouds. They are sometimes of elm, some-
times of lignum vitae.
3422. A lashing cleat of wood (oak or hickory) is seized as pic-
tured; the central seizing is snaked to save wear on the turns. This is
also from Lever ( 1808 ).
3423. A comb or “bee” cleat, or a fair-leader, is lashed wherever
required. Anything, except a block, that alters or directs the lead of
a rope, is called a fair-leader.
3424. A rose seizing is employed to secure the eye of a footrope
to the yard. A series of turns are passed about the yard and alter-
nately over and under the parts of the eye. It is finished off by
reeving between the racking turns in circular fashion and tying an
Overhand Knot' with the end.
3425. A ship’s bell rope is sometimes seized to the flight of the bell
clapper in a manner similar to the rose lashing.
3426. The common method is to put on a stopping through the
eye.
[ 544 1
PRACTICAL MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP
3427. A •whiplash tongue of three parts is secured as shown here.
3428. If the thongs have been middled, they arc seized in much the
same way. It is well to shellac the whipstock and to seize while it is
still tacky.
3429. A whiplash with a single tongue should first be laid down
the whipstock and seized, and then laid up and a series of riding
turns added. The end of the seizing should be tucked under the
last four or five turns.
3430. If the tongue of the whiplash is in two separate parts, the
parts may be laid down the end of the whipstock opposite each
other. First shellac the tip of the stock and, after the shellac has
set, serve the end tightly. Then seize on the tongue. Preferably the
stock should have a button at the end as pictured in #3429.
3431. This fly driver is not to be confused with a swatter. Its
purpose is merely to direct flies into the open. I saw it in a Negro
log cabin at the Kinloch Plantations on the Santee River. A helical
groove was whittled around the end and a jute cord was tied at the
tip and then laid tightly in the groove and held there. A piece of
heavy Manila wrapping paper had been deeply fringed (about
twenty inches) with streamers about one half inch wide, and an
uncut border of about five inches was left. This border was swabbed
with flour paste and snugly rolled around the end of the stock. The
cord was tightly wound in wide turns up and down several times over
the pasted border and finally the bound section was neatly hitched
over.
3432. Gammoning is a method of holding down the bowsprit. It
was universally in use before the days of the bobstay, and was still
in service in 1869 according to Admiral Smyth. The gammoning
started with a Running Eye through the hole in the cutwater and
consisted of eight to twelve round turns. A half dozen frapping turns
were added, hove taut and the end seized to the standing part. On
large ships chain gammoning was used.
3433. A series of racking turns taken through single holes in the
cheeks of a pilot ladder are knotted at both ends of the seizing. The
hole should be no bigger than is necessary.
3434. “ Preventers ” were used in the Navy for quick repairs in
the lighter rigging. The same thing was called a leech rope stopper
when employed to repair a parted boltrope. A man was lowered in a
Bowline from a yardarm above the break to make the repair, which
was done just as a deck stopper is applied. (See $1765).
3435. To pass a head earing , first splice it to the cringle with a
Long Running Eye. Lead it through the strap on the end of the
yard and back through the cringle. Follow with two turns around
the jackstay and through the cringle, then three or four turns
through the cringle and around the yard and the jackstay. Add a
crossing turn under the jackstay and then one around all; finally
secure the end with a Clove Hitch.
3436. A reef earing is secured to the lower eyelet hole of a Reef
Cringle with a Long Running Eye. The sail is hauled well out by
two turns around an outer cleat. One turn of the earing is taken
around the yardarm only and then the end is expended with a
number of turns through the cringle and around the yard; the end
is clove hitched to the lift.
[ 545 3
►It
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3 4*2.
3437. Shrouds are always said to be “rattled down” although foi
many years they have actually been rattled up. Ratlines are light
tarred hemp lines, passing between the shrouds, that serve as the
rungs of a ladder by which sailors climb aloft. The ratlines bear an
Eye Splice at either end, and these eyes are seized to forward and
after shrouds, and are clove hitched to the intervening ones. The two
lower ratlines are heavier than the others, to support the crew before
the men stretch aloft. The ratline is seized at its forward end. Every
fifth ratline, termed a catch ratline , goes to the swifter or forward
shroud; the remainder are seized to the second shroud.
Generally they are fifteen to sixteen inches apart. On boys’ train-
ing ships they may be only thirteen or fourteen inches apart. Such
ratlines on a merchant ship are termed in derision “ladies’ ladders.”
The Clove Hitches are always on the outer side of the shrouds,
and they are tied so that the lower end of the hitch always leads aft.
Wire shrouds are served so that ratlines will not slip.
3438. The Eye Splice in a ratline is tucked once and a half times
and is seized in a horizontal position, for the sake of neatness. The
manner of passing the seizing is illustrated alongside. A lanyard of
marline is eye spliced through the end of the ratline. There are no
crossing turns and the end of the seizing is secured with a hitch at
the center of the eye.
3439. Stopping may be either a temporary whipping or a seizing,
the commonest variety consisting of a few round turns finished off
with a Reef Knot. The purpose of a whipping is to prevent the end
of a rope from fraying. A seizing holds several objects together.
3440. The Strangle Knot is a neater and more secure stopping
than the last. It is first tied loosely and then worked snug.
3441. The Constrictor Knot is the firmest of the three stoppings
shown, although the Strangle Knot is perhaps neater.
3442. Common , plain or ordinary whipping is tied by laying a
loop along the rope and then making a scries of turns over it. The
working end is finally stuck through this loop and the end hauled
back out of sight. Both ends are then trimmed short. A whipping
should be, in width, about equal to the diameter of the rope on
which it is put.
3443. The sailor's whipping is the one that is most commonly
seen. An end is laid down and a number of turns taken about it,
after which it is hauled taut and laid out. Then the second end is
laid back along the rope and additional turns, not less than four, are
made around the end, with the loop that is formed. It is finally tight-
ened by pulling on the two ends.
This is the whipping with which the “all square” and “sharp up”
marks are put in braces, which aid in trimming sail at night, when
a sailor must “see with his hands.”
3444. A?nerican whipping is the name given by the British to
sailor's whipping ($3443) when the ends, after being hauled out at
the center, are reef knotted together before being trimmed. It is
said to be the “best whipping for hawsers.” When putting this and
#3443 in the bight of a rope, the last four or five turns are taken
around a needle or a loop, and are hauled back tightly.
3445. A rigger's whipping is made in the same way as Stopping
$3 393. The ends of the Eye Splice are tucked once and are held by
the turns.
[ 546 ]
PRACTICAL MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP
3446. Pabn-and-needle whipping , or sailmakefs whipping, is the
most satisfactory of all. Two of them, a short distance apart, are
put in the ends of every reef point, where the constant “whipping”
against the sail makes the wear excessive; this is said to be the source
of the name whipping . Where the whipping is a short one, the
needle is thrust through one strand from one side of the whipping
diagonally to the other as shown. To start: Wax a double thread and
stitch twice through a strand to secure the end. After the correct
number of turns is taken, the thread is wormed back to the left
side, and then thrust as pictured and wormed again in the same way
as before. The worming having been followed twice, the end is
trimmed close, after a final diagonal stitch.
3447. A second method for pahn-and-7ieedle whipping is employed
when the width of the whipping is too wide to be crossed with a
single diagonal thrust of the needle. In this case the needle is thrust
straight through a strand at one side of the turns and then is wormed
to the other side of the whipping, where it is thrust through another
strand. Then it is wormed back again to the first side. The needle
is thrust either three or six times, to make the worming either single
or double.
3448. The British Admiralty Manual of Seamanship gives a very
ingenious way of whipping that superficially resembles palm-and-
needle whipping. An ordinary three-strand rope is opeiied for one
and one half to two inches, after first stopping the end of each strand.
A waxed twine is middled and a loose loop laid around one strand,
then both ends are brought out at the opposite cuntline. The rope
end is carefully laid up again and stopped. The loop and the work-
ing end having been left long, with the working end make the re-
quired number of turns and put the loop that was left at the bottom
over the top of the strand that it encircles. The standing end is now
pulled taut, which draws up the loop and tightens the worming. The
standing end is next wormed to the top and reef knotted to the
working end, between the strands, where it does not show.
3449. In a similar way a whipping may be put on a four-strand
rope. Open the rope for a couple of inches and with a waxed thread
make a figure eight between the strands as pictured. The two loops
are left well open. Turn both loops down and the standing end up .
With the working end put on turns around the rope and the stand-
ing end, which has been led to the top. Worm the two loops to the
top and put each over the end of the proper strand. With a pricker
pull on the standing end and tighten both loops. Finally bring the
two ends across the top between the proper strands and reef knot
them together. The objection to these two whippings is that the lay
is disturbed and the end of the rope tends to “blossom.”
3450. French whipping is merely a series of Half Hitches. Start
with a Running Eye and finish up with the end tucked back under
the last few hitches. The ridge of the hitches should follow the lay
of the rope.
3451. Crown whipping . Knot or side splice a piece of marline or
fishline to the center of another piece that is twice as long. Place
it in the center of the rope and, with ends protruding at different
cuntlines, crown them continuously to the right, pulling all tight
at each operation. When the length is sufficient tuck each end back
under the last two or three crowns, using a needle for the task.
[ 547 ]
ill
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
34fc2
3452. Portuguese whipping is the quickest of all to apply; the ends
are merely reef knotted together. It is given by Esparteiro in his
Dicionario dc Marinharia (Lisboa, 1936).
3453. Snaking is added to whippings on yoke ropes, manropes and
pointings. On large ropes it is added for security. It is added to a
sailor’s whipping (#3443). With a needle the end is thrusc under and
over the outer turns at either end.
3454. A regular snaking is made by taking a hitch at each outer
turn.
3455. A round turn is sometimes taken about the outer edge, which
is presumably a decorative feature.
3456. A Cow Hitch Snaking.
3457. A decorative snaking. Tie #3440 with five turns. Thrust
the needle alternately left and right, each time under the two out-
side turns and at right angles to the rope at cither end. The initial
five turns should be slackly taken.
3458. West Country whipping was the name given by Biddle-
combe in 1848 to this particular practice, but most subsequent sea-
manship books, including the British Admiralty Manual of Seaman-
ship , have modified the name to West Comity whipping . The thread
or yarn having been middled, the ends are passed around the rope
and are half knotted together. Each end is next led one half a turn to
the opposite side and again the two are half knotted. The ends are
again led one half a turn around the rope and half knotted. T his is con-
tinued on alternate sides until the required width is reached, when
the ends are securely reef knotted and cut off. I have not seen this
whipping used but it has this advantage: if any part breaks it will
be a very long while before the whole whipping lets go. The break
will be evident and the whipping can be replaced in time.
3459. A linemans whipping is made of “electric tape.” Although
far from handsome, it is very practical. Start with the end laid under
one strand of the rope.
3460. Sinnet whipping requires a palm and needle. It is used on
the ends of gaskets, points, robands and anywhere where Flat or
French Sinnet is practically used. A photograph among the frontis-
pieces shows sinnet whipping tied on an old cat-o' -nine-tails. A
number of turns having been taken, the needle is thrust through
the flat of the sinnet and brought out again at the other side. Gen-
erally three crossing turns are added in this manner, then the end is
buried with one or two invisible stitches.
3461. Cable whipping requires more care than hawser whipping,
because the rope is harder laid. The end of the cable is first stopped
temporarily and then a whipping of marline is clapped on a number
of inches from the end. The turns are taken in a direction con-
trary to the lay of the cable and hove very taut with a marlingspike.
The stopping is next removed and each of the three component
ropes is whipped twice, preferably with a palm-and-needle whip-
ping, but if the ropes are large #3442 will be found about the best.
3462. Wire whipping is made with a special, soft galvanized iron
wire that is made for the purpose. But if this is not available, galvan-
ized stovepipe wire will serve adequately. Pliers may be used to
tighten but care must be exercised not to score the wire. The first
end is laid under the turns as in whipping #3452, and instead of
knotting, the ends are twisted and hammered flat.
[ 548 ]
1 Ut
CHAPTER 41: DECORATIVE MARLINGSPIKE
SEAMANSHIP (APPLIED KNOTS)
Add to all this labor > the neat 'work upon the rigging; the knots ,
Flemish-eyes , splices , seizings , coverings , pointings ami graftings,
1 which shove a ship in crack order.
Richard H. Dana, Jr., T'Uio Fear* Before the Mast , 1841
In the days of hand-made rope a great quantity of u small stuff ”
was wanted aboard ship, which could have been easily supplied by
the ropewalks ashore, but was more cheaply produced aboard ship
by the sailors themselves. Many ships carried small ropemaker’s
winches for the purpose. But most of the stuff used by the sailor
for his “fancy” knot work was made wholly by hand. The material
for this manufacture was called “junk/’ Old cable and rope were
chopped into workable lengths, opened and reduced to their com-
ponent yarns. These yarns were twisted together by rolling with
the palm, against the thigh or belly, or else they were twisted up
between thumb and fingers and then were laid up into foxes and
nettles. These were called “twice-laid stuff.” Yarns were larger
around then than they are at the present time, and the hemp fiber
then used was stronger than Manila. A single yarn of hemp was
supposed to bear a weight of a hundred pounds.
Nowadays small stuff approximating foxes and nettles can be
procured, ready-made, at slight cost. Italian marline will serve nicely
instead of a Spanish fox, and a good quality of common marline
is much like an ordinary fox. Four-thread stuff (two-strand) and
six-thread stuff (three-strand) are made for crab- and lobster-pot
buoy ropes, and these closely resemble nettle stuff.
[ 549 j
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3463. Spun yarn consists of two or three (occasionally four) rope
yarns, placed together and first rolled between palm and knee and
finally twisted tightly with the fingers. The direction is contrary to
the lay of yarns. It differs from rope and cord, inasmuch as no
additional twist is imparted to the individual yarns. Before slacking
up, the spun yarn is well rubbed with a patch of old tarry canvas.
It is at once wound into a tight ball.
3464. A Spanish fox is made of a single rope yam that is split into
either two or three equal parts. The several parts of the yarn, orig-
inally right-handed, are given a left twist, which first untwists the
original lay and then twists the individual parts reversely. The sev-
eral parts are then laid up together right-handed.
The purpose of reversing the twist is to smooth out any inequal-
ities which are bound to exist in the interior of an old hard-laid rope.
Spanish foxes are more commonly made of the two halves of a single
yarn. As the length grows, other half yarns are added by tying Rope
Yarn Knots, the ends being first scraped to a taper to keep the knot
small.
3465. An ordinary fox is formed by laying up two or three right-
handed yarns, which makes the fox left-handed.
3466. Nettle stuff or nettles (also called brittle s , knettles and
nittles) are composed of two, three or (very seldom) four foxes .
They are right-handed. Three or four rope yarns laid up together
would also be termed nettle stuff. In fact, a good working definition
of nettle stuff might be: “A hand-made rope of about the size of
clothesline, or smaller. ,,
The four products so far described are rubbed smooth with a
patch of old tarred parceling.
3467. Stirrups support the footropes which hang below the yards.
One end has a Thimble Splice through which the footrope is rove.
Before jackstays came into use the other end was platted for a length
sufficient to pass two or three times helically around the yard, to
which it was nailed. Small leather washers were placed under the
nailheads.
3468, 3469. Robands and sea gaskets are made alike but in varying
sizes. A rob and serves to bend a sail to either a yard or a jackstay,
and a gasket is for lashing a furled sail. Three, four or five foxes are
middled and platted together from mid-length into a Flat Sinnet
for a distance sufficient to form an eye. All the strands are then
brought together and laid up into a wider Flat Sinnet for a short
distance, where another single strand is introduced. After another
interval, equal to one round of the yard (for a gasket, but less for
a roband) a single strand is laid out, and then at a shorter interval
another from the opposite side of the sinnet. This continues until
there are but two strands left, where one of these is tucked back
parallel with the one last laid out, making three in all. The two op-
posing ends are spliced or seized together, and the three parts are
then platted to the end and seized.
3470, 3471, 3472. Although in making reef points, gaskets, etc., it
is commonly recommended to “lay out nettles and trim them off”:
f 5 50 1
DECORATIVE MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP (APPLIED KNOTS)
unless they are first secured in some manner the sinnet will fret. An
end may be tapered and seized :o a remaining nettle (#3470). It
may be side spliced, in which case it requires only one tuck per
strand (#3471), or else a few stitches with sail twine will be suf-
ficient to hold it ($3472).
3473. Double reef poincs are made in the same manner as gaskets
but the eye is much longer in proportion. Three foxes form the eye
and the manner of platting is the same as already described. A reef
point is rove through the eyelet hole in the sail from either side.
Then a round turn is put ir- each of the two eyes and the opposite
point is rove through the doubled eye, after which a man on either
side of the sails hauls them home.
3474. Robands are made and rove in much the same manner, but
the eye is shorter and is not doubled; moreover there is a short leg
and a long leg and the short leg is rove from the back of the sail
forward.
3475. A single roband may have two sinnet tails at opposite ends
with a rope center, in which case it is bent to the headrope, as pic-
tured, and is seized in.
3476. Single reef points are started at the center with Seven-
Strand Flat Sinnet and are platted and tapered toward both ends.
In bending these a Single Overhand Knot is placed in each. After
the point is hove taut and rove through the eyelet hole, another knot
is added close to the other side and this is hove taut by placing the
feet against a block shiv that is put over the point.
Points got their name because of their tapered or pointed form
when they were made of sinnet. When rope points came into use,
in the latter part of the eighteenth century, they were first called
reef hanks; but it was the older name that survived.
3477. The harbor gasket is made of French Sinnet $297 6 and is
reserved for dress-up occasions. In the Navy they were tarred black
for appearance’ sake and were lined with white duck so as not to
mark the sails.
To make: Take six nettles, middle them and lay up a section of
Six-Strand Round Sinnet sufficient to take the thimble. Lav out
¥
one nettle and lay up a section of Eleven-Strand French Sinnet
in length equal to one round of the yard. Then taper for an equal
The eye is served over and the thimble is seized in.
The earlier harbor gasket had a French Sinnet Eye and no
thimble.
3478. Another harbor gasket is started with an iron ring instead
of a thimble, and the ring is covered with Ringbolt Hitching
(#3605).
Several nettles are middled and rove through the ring, and a single
nettle is eye spliced to the ring in order to give an odd number of
strands. This is not necessary, but it is customary, as an odd number
makes a symmetrical French Sinnet. One and one half tucks to the
strand are sufficient for the Eye Splice since the nettles are to be laid
up into sinnet.
[551 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3479 . Reef beckets appeared on naval ships and large mercnant
craft about i860 and remained in use on training ships until the end
of the century, but they were seldom seen on ordinary merchant
ships.
To make: Double four nettles and make sufficient sinnet to form
an eve around the toggle. Seize in the toggle and plat six inchevS of
Eight-Strand Flat Sinnet. Then divide the strands and make an
eye eight inches long. Next taper for nine inches more and seize, as
described for $3469.
3480 . Another reef becket is designed to pass around a yard, after
which the end is rove through the eye and the neck of the eye is
seized to the jackstay. The eye is first formed, and then a section of
Eight-Strand Flat Sinnet is made that is four inches longer than
the round of the yard. The strands are next divided and an eve of
four-inch length is made, followed by six inches of Eight-Strand
Flat Sinnet; another eye eight inches long is made, and a final taper
of nine inches is added.
3481 . A double tail block is fitted with a long strap that is middled
and seized, A short length of the rope is left, a snaked whipping
(#3453) is put on, and the legs are opened up into yarns that are
tapered and laid up into five nettles. These nettles are platted into
Flat Sinnet and given a palm-and-needle whipping ($3446).
3482 . Sinnet e airings are made with a Long Eye that is bent to the
cringles with a Bale Sling Hitch. They are made the same as gas-
kets and robands but are heavier and longer and are tapered gradu-
ally the full length. Eleven strands of four yarn nettles are used
and, if great strength is required, the earing is made longer so that
more turns may be passed. The method of passing is illustrated as
$3435 and #343 6.
3483 . A single tail block is strapped with an Eye Splice. The single
tail is made as one of the double tails already described (#3481).
3484 . Railroad Sinnet (i). Aboard ship there is a constant rub-
bing and grinding of ropes, spars and sails one against another.
Wherever there is danger of galling and fraying it is necessary to
interpose something of a softer or smoother texture in order to save
wear. Anything used for this purpose is termed chafing gear.
Railroad Sinnet is a kind of chafing gear, so named because it is
made over two long parallel tracks of marline or other small stuff.
These arc usually stretched while being worked between the fife
rail and the lee pin rail. Between these tracks, short thrums are
knotted and packed tightly together.
Old rope or cable is chopped into short lengths of six inches to
one foot, and the pieces separated into yarns. With back to the rail,
and with tracks tucked under one arm, the boatswain middles a
thrum and leads it over both tracks, one end down each side, then
brings the left end up between the tracks and follows with the right
one. He grasps the two ends and draws them strongly toward him.
Each thrum is jammed against the preceding one. A stick, a few
[552]
DECORATIVE MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP (APPLIED KNOTS)
inches long, with either a notch or a hole at each end, is kept a few
inches in advance of the work, to hold the tracks apart. Holes are
preferable as the stick cannot then fall to deck. The completed sinnet
is wound helically and snugly around ropes and spars. Around a rope
the end is tucked and seized in; around a spar the end is tacked or
nailed.
3485. Railroad Sinnet ( 2 ). Baggy wrinkle is the name applied
to the Railroad Sinnet chafing gear of a fisherman's topping lift.
There are a number of variants of the name, which may mean that
it is not yet old enough to have become standardized. The title
that heads this paragraph is from Waldo Howland. Gershom Brad-
ford speaks of u bagy 'wrinkles ” Rodman Swift of “ baggy •winkles ”
James B. Connolly of “boogy winkles” Captain Daniel Mullins calls
them “bag wrinkles” and Charles G. Davis, “bag-a-wrinkle.” Bag or
baggy may be derived from the bag of the sail where the topping-lift
chafe centers and where wrinkles are apt to form, unless the wind is
strong enough to flatten them out. Winkles or wrinkles are spirally
marked sea shells that wind in much the same manner that Railroad
Sinnet twists around the lift in forming a baggy wrinkle. It is an
amusing name, of recent coinage, but its origin is already obscured.
3486. Railroad Sinnet (3). Platted corn-husk mats as well as
chafing gear are made of Three-Strand Sinnet thrumming. Rope
yarns six to eight inches long, or the crotched ends of corn husks,
"are introduced at the top left of the sinnet each time that a strand is
led to the right. When the strands have crossed the sinnet one to
three times they are laid out at the right side.
A corn-husk rug is either sewed flat as other braided rugs are or
else it is made thicker by being sewed with the sinnet on edge. In
the latter case all ends are laid out at the upper edge of the sinnet.
The fuses of Chinese firecrackers are platted in this same way to
form the crackers into “bunches.”
3487. Sallie tucks , tucking or “sallies” are used on the bell ropes
of chimes to cushion the hands when pulling. They are usually made
of bright-colored worsted yarns, the different colors serving to iden-
tify the bells. A number of short yarns are tucked between the
strands and these are trimmed off evenly. If four-strand bell rope is
used, the yams are stuck through the center of the rope in alter-
nating directions and crowded together compactly. The length of
the “sallie” is governed by the size and swing of the bell.
3488. Marline or other two-strand material is thrummed with the
fingers or else with a large blunted needle. A number of long yarns
are threaded at one time and sewed either back and forth or over
and over. They are packed down hard and trimmed.
3489. For heavy chafing gear a single strand may be removed
from a three-strand rope and separated into yarns, which in turn are
cut up into thrums. These are rove through the remaining two
strands in the manner illustrated. Thrums are sometimes called “rov-
ings,” and they have also been called “rovens,” “fillers,” and “filling.”
[553]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3490. The Prolong Knot is described at length on page 362. It is
one of the Basket Weave Knots.
Mats of one sort or another form the greater part of chafing gear.
3491. A Flemish flake with the turns sewed together on the back
with a herringbone stitch is often tacked to the deck for the helms-
man to stand on and is also used to take up the thump of sheet blocks.
3492. Door mats are frequently made by sailors ashore. Marline
or lobster cord warps are sometimes used and these are half knotted
around each turn of the rope. The flakes may be made either round
or elliptical. It will take about three hundred feet of 2 x /i -inch rope
and twelve pieces of white marline to make the mat pictured. The
Half Knots are tied alike, GRANNY-fashion. When the rope is ex-
hausted finish off the warps with Reef Knots. Both ends of the rope
should be whipped.
3493. To “shoulder” a woven or sword mat . The sketch alongside
shows how sword mat #2964 may be tapered if an odd shape is re-
quired to pass around a bolt or cleat on a yard. The method of doing
this is given in detail with the hammock clews, page 588. Either one
or both shoulders may be narrowed. Overhand Knots are tied in the
strands that are laid out.
3494. Punch mat (also called wrought mat) is often spelled either
panch or paunch, but I can find no record of its being pronounced
at sea in any way except punch . Originally it was the name for any
large, heavily padded and thrummed mat. Nowadays it always refers
to one made in a certain way. The method of making this is shown
as #2963. A wooden tool with a notched end, called a punch, has
been employed in thrumming a mat but more often this is done with
the fingers alone. Thrums six to eight inches long are middled and
punched halfway through the fabric and the bights are afterward
punched back again through a different part of the weave. When
all thrums are in place the bights are trimmed.
To selvage oft the bottom of a punch' mat, stretch a rope for me
foot. Pass the left strand around this, remove the second strand and
back the left strand into its score two, three, four, or more tucks,
withdrawing the second strand by the same amount. Half knot oppo-
site ends and leave out, one on each side of the mat. Treat the re-
maining pairs the same way, but bringing all ends out at different
lengths of the mat. Each end is opened and trimmed to the same
length as the thrums.
3495. Crown and wall mat. This is made the same as the foregoing,
but instead of always leading from the right side and working down-
ward diagonally to the left, this one is started at the right side and
each strand in turn is engaged with its next neighbor. At the left edge
the process is reversed and the strands are worked back to the right.
3496. A crowned mat is much the same. In the illustration it is
started on the left side, each strand in turn is engaged with its neigh-
bor to the right, but when the right edge is reached the mat is turned
over (to the left) and the back side is worked across exactly the
same as the front, from left to right.
3497. To thrum a canvas mat that is to be laced about a spar: Take
a sailmaker’s “rubber” (seam rubber), turn the canvas edge down
a short distance parallel with the edge and crease it well. Take a rop-
ing needle with several long yarns on it and sew over and over along
the crease and around a spool. With a very sharp knife or razor
blade cut the yarns in a straight line along the top of the spool. Make
another crease a half or three quarters of an inch away and repeat.
[ 554 ]
DECORATIVE MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP (APPLIED KNOTS)
3498. A Mouse or mousing (plural “Mouses”) is a knob that is
raised on the messenger to prevent nippers from slipping. Enough
spun yarn is wound around the messenger to form a shallow knob.
Then a small rope is worked through the strands of the rope and
jammed against the Mouse much in the same way that a snaking is
added to a whipping. The two ends are reef knotted.
3499. A Mouse on a stay was formerly of spun yarn, but Lever, in
1808, recommends that narrow parceling, macled down, be used in-
stead. This method of “parsling” was first mentioned by Falconer in
1769. “Mouses” are grafted over and the grafting is carried down
the stay a short distance. Then, when the stay is served, the ends of
the grafting are covered over.
3500. Puddening an anchor ring is serving it with several parallel
lengths of small rope. Lever describes it as made with five. These
are stopped onto the ring and, after being set up with a heaver and
trailer, are seized and snaked. The method of employing the heaver
is described under worming (#3337).
3501. A pudding was formerly a pad to protect a mast where it is
crossed by a yard. Later it was any sort of a soft fender. The name
comes from bagpudding. Brady (1841) says, “If intended for a yard
generally it is covered with leather or rawhide, if for a mast it is
pointed over for neatness.”
Puddings are also used for fenders.
An Eye Splice is put in both ends of a short piece of rope and
spun yarn is wound around it. When the shape is satisfactory the
pudding is marled and covered either with grafting or hitching.
Nowadays they are often canvas-covered.
One of the neatest ways to make a pudding is as follows: Take a
piece of hawser and splice in two Thimble Eyes for the ends, leav-
ing all ends very long for crowning. Whip all strands and tuck them
twice. (Tuck bights instead of ends, and draw the ends through
afterward to prevent torsion.) Raise the pudding with old strands,
first, and finish with spun yarn. Crown both sets of strands to the
right until they meet. Side splice (#2828) extra strands as needed,
an equal number at each end. When the pudding is completely cov-
ered, lay opposite ends “in and out” and scatter the joints before
trimming.
3502. A dolphin is started the same as a pudding but is not padded.
An eye is spliced in each end of a short rope and the rope is wormed
and parceled, and then grafted over.
3503. The bow fender of a towboat is similar to a pudding, being
large enough and soft enough to allow a tug to push directly against
the side of the ship. Sometimes bow fenders are made of punch
matting, thrummed, stuffed and sewed together on the back, and
sometimes they are hitched over. They may be made around dol-
phins with several Thimble Eyes spliced in; by means of these they
are lashed into place.
3504. A dolphin is also the name for a series of fenders, made on
one rope, which pass in a continuous line below the gunnel of a
boat. The ends are lashed at the stern. These are made as described
for #3501.
3505. A fisherman's fender . Fishermen’s gear is essentially prac-
tical, although often far from shipshape. This fender consists of sev-
eral turns of an old hawser served over with smaller rope. The ends
of the latter are rove through the end turns of the former.
[555]
l>b ) ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3506. Crown SiNNET-covered boat fenders are both common anu
practical. Take a piece of 2 * 4 -inch rope, middle it and seize in a
Thimble Eye. Take a piece of hawser the length of the fender and
whip both ends. If it is desired to add to the diameter, wind spun
yarn evenly around it until sufficient in size. Open both ends of the
rope as far as the eye, then crown the strands as in the lower illus-
tration. Make several tiers of Crowns (see Sinnet #2913), then push
the short piece of hawser down into the center, work the Crowns
taut around it and put a Constrictor (#1249) around all to hold the
hawser core in place while working. Continue to crown until suffi-
cient length is made, then add the knot pictured at the top, and,
when partly drawn up, pull the ends well back with a wire loop
under the sinnet. Then draw everything taut.
3507. Crown Sinnet boat fender of four-strand rope. This will
be found more shipshape than the one just described. Middle a long
rope and seize in an eye. Take a shorter piece of the same size rope
and seize in or side splice below the thimble seizing. Lay these three
up by hand into a cable the length of the desired fender and seize
strongly. Cut off the shortest rope and open the two remaining ends.
Make a Crown Sinnet of the eight strands around the cable core.
When the neck is reached, crown as Knot #9 56 and with a wire
loop pull the ends well down under the sinnet and out to the surface,
get everything taut and cut off the ends flush. If the strands are
pulled very taut they will work back out of sight. Roll the fender
under a plank or beat well with a mallet to even out any irregulari-
ties.
3508. A hitched fender . Splice the ends of a short piece of rope
together, form a strap and seize in an eye at either end. Make of the
desired shape and proportion by worming and winding oakum or
other material around the doubled rope. If a large fender is planned,
make a cylinder of corrugated board around the strap, and, after
marling carefully, cover it over with sacking and stuff tightly with
oakum or cotton.
Take a long single strand of 2 * 4 -inch rope and cover the cylinder
with needle hitching (# 3544 ). Use a marlingspike, heavy wire loop
or pliers for tools. This is simple but heavy work. Finish off very
tightly at the neck of the Eye Splices. Tuck each strand through
the two parts of the strap below the eye and form a Standing.
Turk’s-Head (#1283).
In covering a fender with Crown Sinnet, the strands may be un-
twisted slightly, w hich allows them to lie flatter as they pass over
each other. But in general the tighter the lay, the greater the re-
sistance to surface wear.
The making of fenders may be expedited if the helical crowning
method described as #2931 is resorted to. But this method requires
greater skill than crowning in successive tiers, so if possible have a
mate to help.
3509. “Underhand Round-Turn Hitching.” A bumper is used
when landing heavy cargo, particularly kegs and casks. An X-shaped
dolphin is formed of two pieces of heavy rope, seized together
where they cross. These are inserted in a heavy sack or a carton and
an Eye Splice is placed at each of the four corners. The cavity is
then well stuffed.
[ 556 ]
DECORATIVE MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP (APPLIED KNOTS)
A Noose is put around one end of this, with the end of a small
rope, and a series of turns (not too close together) is taken to the
bottom end, where a Half Hitch is made with the working end
around the last turn. The lead is then deflected at right angles across
the end of the sack or carton to the back, where a series of under-
hand round turns is taken around each rope that is crossed. This is
shown in the upper left drawing. When the front and back are com-
pletely covered, the lead is again deflected at right angles, in the
same way as before, and the remaining four sides are completely
covered. The bumper is finished off with a Clove Hitch and the end
is tucked out of the way.
3510. An Overhand Round-Turn Hitching is a bit simpler than
the former, as the end is stuck under one strand only at a time, in-
stead of two. The process of making the bumper and winding the
first set of turns is the same. These two are made generally of small
stuff instead of single strands. They are often a part of the equip-
ment of brewery trucks, where they are used to drop kegs from the
tailboard.
3511. Footrope Knot fender. Two sections of rope are required
and these are wormed, parceled and canvas-covered. Middle the
ropes. Seize an eye in the center of one, then reeve the other rope
through this eye and seize them together snugly. Serve them for a
iength equal to the proposed knot, and tie a Wall at the bottom,
which completes the first drawing. Lead the four ends upward in a
right helix and stop them at the eye. Crown the ends to the right
and tuck them downward, one tier at a time, over one and under one,
to the bottom. (The final tuck will be under two, which includes the
original Wall.) After drawing up, seize the four ends.
3512. An old sinnet Render of canvas-covered strands. An eye is
seized into a doubled rope, with a round seizing having five riding
turns. Then the rope is opened and the six canvas-covered strands
are laid up into Six-Strand Round Sinnet ($3021 ) to the end, which
is canvas-capped, whipped with seven turns and snaked as #3454.
Two Turk’s-Heads are added, of small stuff, about eighteen-thread
cotton rope. The upper one is a Five-Lead, Four-Bight, Three-Ply
Knot, the lower one a Six-Lead, Five-Bight, Three-Ply One (see
Chapter 17 ).
3513. A Turk’s-Head Render of small hawser, made by Rodman
Swift. It provides a fender that is practically round and very neat.
If the Turk’s-Head is to be three-ply only, it will not require a core.
Tie a Three-Lead, Four-Bight Turk’s-Head (#1305), form an
eye with a bight near the center of the rope on the inside and put in
a throat seizing (#3410) and a round seizing close to it. Follow the
lead around once with each end, and work taut with a marlingspike.
Serve or ringbolt hitch over the eye.
3514. A second way is to worm a short rope with which to form
an eye, and then seize and cover the eye with Ringbolt Hitching
(# 3604). Tie a round Spritsail Sheet Knot (#887) with the ends,
wind a little spun yarn over the knot to round it out and place a
Monkey’s Fist (#2206) over it.
3515. A Flattened Turk’s-Head makes an excellent fender for a
dinghy. The ends should be seized on the underside and the eye
made with a throat seizing in the outer ply.
557 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3516. A grommet Render “is merely a rope grommet grafted over”
according to Alston. Grafting is described as #3557, this chapter.
The grommet should be wormed and parceled before grafting, and
may also be served with spun yarn.
3517. An old truck-tire fender, unfortunately, is about the most
practical fender there is. Fishermen use them naked and they are far
from handsome. But if they are ringbolt hitched with rope or large
strands from a rope, they become as handsome as any (see #3605
or #3606).
3518. Scotchmen are fenders or chafing gear of stiff material that
are seized or lashed to shrouds and stays. The simplest are made of
bamboo, split down the middle, with the valves gouged out. They
are also made of other woods, of iron and of hide. Iron ones are used
to protect the rigging from the futtock shrouds. Ashore iron pipes
are put over telephone-pole guys either to serve the same purpose or
to protect pedestrians.
3519. Hide Scotchmen are of pickled hide with the hair still on.
Holes are punched along the edges and they are laced into place
with rawhide thongs. Applying them is spoken of as “hiding” a stay
or a spar.
3520. Automobile -tire Scotchfnen are either nailed or laced ac-
cording to where they are placed. The edges are serrated with a
chisel and mallet and the holes are punched. I have seen them on
fishermen, neatly made and aluminum-painted, and they were not
half bad in appearance.
3521. To sew two punch or sword ?nats together. Two marline
needles and doubled marline are required and the two selvages are
joined with a cobbler's stitch.
3522. This shows the sailor’s way of securing his thread by making
an Overhand Knot in the canvas itself. A first short stitch is taken
and then a second stitch of equal length crosses underneath the first
one diagonally.
3523. In making eyelet holes in a sail, small grommets (#2864)
of the right size are first to be made, either a single strand or a full-
size piece of marline being used, according to the size required. The
ends of the grommet need be stuck but once. A hole is pricked
through the canvas, either with a stabber, which has three edges, or
with a pegging awl, which has four. The grommet is placed on top
of the hole and the needle is stuck down at the far side of the grom-
met and up through the hole. One should always sew to the right
along the far side, and put the stitches close together, covering the
grommet completely and evenly. A number of threads are put in
the needle at a time and these are well waxed and sewed “over and
over.”
Often small galvanized iron rings are used in sails instead of grom-
mets, and sometimes grommets are made of wire.
The sailor is a very proficient needleman. Not only has he his own
wardrobe to care for, but the ship’s as well. The canvas is a constant
care, requiring various roping, seaming, and mending stitches. For
these purposes three-sided needles are used, which on occasion may be
fully seven inches long, and these are thrust with a leather-mounted
thimble called a palm (#ioiB). For wardrobe and fancy work
smaller needles of the same sort are used, and an ordinary uncapped
thimble is worn. It is not at all uncommon to see a sailor wearing his
thimble on his thumb.
[558]
DECORATIVE MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP (APPLIED KNOTS)
I was reared in a town that was steeped in nautical tradition and
the youth of my town scorned almost any activity that was of inland
origin, unless perhaps it had to do with the pioneer, the cowboy, or
the Indian. So, although “store” baseballs were preferred in practice,
every boy felt the urge at some time to make himself a ball, in a
manner that was undoubtedly handed down from an older genera-
tion of seafaring ancestors.
Around a hard round core of ivory, stone, rubber or even a glass
alley (agate) spun yarn or cord was wound meticulously, round and
tight, to form a ball. And this was stitched over (#3544) with hard
fishline and soaked in thinned shellac or rigger’s tar. I remember
many such balls being made, but very few ever being played with.
In late years I have conducted a search for one, but have failed to
find a single survivor. The puppies of the last two score years must
have accounted for them all. For such needlework a somewhat
blunted needle is used. If the object is of large diameter, the end of
the needle may be heated in a candle flame and bent slightly to allow
easy entering.
Most sailors’ needlework with which I am familiar is in the nature
of coverings. But there are colored worsted embroidered pictures
of ships made by foreign sailors that would not greatly lower the
average of many contemporary fine arts exhibitions, and I have seen
elaborate doilies and cushion covers of knotted and sewed wicking
that are said to have been made at sea.
3524. Hitched eyelet holes were often made by the sailor on his
clothes and ditty bags, and I have a ditty bag that has “buttonhol-
ing” (#3611).
3525. Thimbles are frequently added to the boltrope of small-boat
sails without the employment of eyelet holes. After the groove of
the thimble is well filled with sail twine, it may be served, before
frapping turns are added. The drawing shows a thimble lying
parallel with the sail .
3526. If the thimble is to be at right angles with the sail , round
turns are taken and frapping turns added. The drawing shows a
thimble seized to an eyelet hole.
3527. Seizing in a square-sail reef point. This is done with needle
and thread and frapping turns are added. In reefing square sails the
points are led either to the yard or around the jackstay so that the
weight of the sail is below the spar. The reef point is sewed to the
upper edge of the eyelet hole. Formerly reef points were knotted
in, as $ 1938.
3528. The reef point of a fore-and-aft sail is sewed with the same
stitch, but to the bottom of the eyelet hole, as the pull is upward,
away from the boom.
3529. Another way of sewing in reef points on fore-and-aft sails.
After the point is rove the two halves are seized together through
the sail, just below the eyelet hole, and frapping turns are added on
both sides of the canvas.
3530. Crowfooting a reef point is a method used on large fore-
and-aft sails. Grasp the point at the center with both hands, push the
two parts together, at the same time twisting them strongly against
the lay. The lay will open and as the twisting is continued a loop
will erupt from each strand. Seize the point at either side of the loops
and reeve it through the hole. Stitch the loops flat to the port side
of the sail.
^ ^ ^
/
3J-30
[ 559 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
S ^ ^ ^ ^
The blade of a sail needle is much larger than the shank and eye,
so that it makes a large hole when it enters and the thread is easily
drawn through. A number of threads, each from a different spool,
are threaded at the same time, the number depending on the weight
of the canvas to be used. Sometimes as many as six spools are em-
ployed. The needle is thrust with a palm, of which there are two
sorts— one for seaming, and one for roping.
3531. Cloths are sewed together with what is termed a fiat seam.
The Naval Expositor of 1750 called it a monk's seam , but Admiral
Smyth, in 1867, says that a monk’s seam is a reinforcement between
the two other lines of flat seaming.
To sew a flat seam in a new sail: With the cloths lying flat on the
loft floor turn up the right selvage edges of the different cloths and
crease them well with a “seam rubber.” Nowadays a colored thread
in the canvas marks the width of the seam; formerly it was marked
with a pencil. Fake two cloths, arrange as in the first drawing, the
selvage of the top cloth above the crease of the lower. Sew from
left to right and away from you (as shown by the arrows). When
the seam is finished, open the cloths and rub the seam down flat, with
the seam rubber.
3532. Fold back the second cloth and sew the selvage of the first
doth to the doubled part of the second cloth. Rub the seam smooth.
3533. “ Round seaming" is the earliest practice; it is mentioned in
the Expositor of 1750. The two selvages are laid together without
overlapping and the edges are sewed over and over.
3534. Roping stitches are also taken to the right, and more threads
are required than in seaming. These are well waxed and rubbed. The
boltrope is held on a stretch and the canvas is sewed on slackly to
make allowance for the stretch of the boltrope, which is always
three-strand. The needle is thrust first through the boltrope, then
up through the doubled canvas edge. In heavy sewing a heaver
(#ioiJ) is used to pull the canvas snugly down into the cuntlines.
Several turns of the thread are taken around the heaver and then
the heaver is twisted. Square sails are always roped on the after side,
fore-and-aft sails always on the port side, to save wear of the stitches
against the spar. Ropes are sewed to a doubled edge or hem termed
the tabling . The end or point of the heaver is cupped and a reluctant
needle may be shoved well into the rope by this means.
3535. Cross stitches are added at all clews, cringles, splices, etc.
3536. The sailor’s stitch, also called “baseball stitch,” is employed
in mending garments and sometimes in mending sail.
3537. The double sailor’s stitch is used in mending where the ma-
terial is very weak.
3538. Herringhoning , or herringbone stitch, is the preferred stitch
in mending a ripped sail or where two selvages or hems are to be
brought together.
3539. A round seam ( 1 ) is ordinarily made in covering manropes,
yoke ropes and the like.
3540. The round seam (2) is preferable, the only difference being
in the direction of the needle thrust. The covering will be firmer if
the stitch passes through the rope. A worming will also contribute
to the firmness of the covering.
3541. An “ invisible stitch ” is sewed with two needles and the two
stitches are taken directly opposite each other and along the exact
[ 5 6 ° .1
DECORATIVE MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP (APPLIED KNOTS)
tuge of the hems. The width of material required must be ascertained
and the canvas marked precisely with a pencil. If well done, this
makes the neatest manropc, as the seam will scarcely show.
3542. The round-turn stitch is the simplest of the covering stitches
employed bv the sailor. It is worked either to the left or to the right,
and frequently sections of left and right are worked in alternation.
The same stitch presents two different aspects, according to whether
it is drawn taut in the direction of the needle’s progress, or contrary
to it.
3543. Muffled oars were generally muffled rowlocks. In the whal-
ing service the covering was of marline hitched over with needle
stitch #3344. Frequently leather bushings were added, or else the
marline was thrummed with a needle and rope yarns.
3544. Needle hitching is the name for the commonest of the sail-
or’s covering stitches. It is also called half hitching and hitching over.
Admiral Luce speaks of it as “loop stitch.” At sea it is often referred
to merely as hitching . I should repeat here that at sea the verb to
hitch does not apply to knots.
A single knot that is designated “a hitch” is always “made fast” or
“put on.” Needle hitchings are commonly started with two or three
turns around the thickest part of the object to be covered. If the
object tapers much it is worked in both directions away from the
fattest part.
This particular object is a sailor’s needle case, shaped from the solid
wood. The center is bored out, the outside is turned on a lathe and
a shoulder is left for the cover to fit against. The round turns already
mentioned are taken at the edges of the cover and body, and are
worked both ways toward the two round ends. As the ends are
reached, hitches are omitted at regular intervals to allow the cover-
ing to close at the center. Gimlet holes are made at the two ends and
a light lanyard is rove through and knotted on the inside of the box.
The illustrations show that the hitches have been alternated at
regular intervals from right-hand to left-hand hitches, which gives
a “herringbone pattern.” Needle boxes arc from six to ten inches
long, generally of soft wood but also of tin, albatross wing, bone,
beef marrow bone and bamboo.
3545. The knife sheath that is pictured here is covered with needle
hitching #3544. The pattern is made by working some sections hori-
zontally, some vertically and others diagonally. To taper a section to
a point, make each line with one less stitch than the preceding one.
3546. This stitch is similar to #3544 but an extra turn of the line
is taken around the object after each row of hitches is added. This
line is encompassed by the next row of hitches. The illustration
shows the covering of a baseball.
3547. The rib stitch, when finished, closely resembles knitting,
particularly if the stitches are kept well together. If they are widely
separated the ribs generally helix in one direction or the other.
At sea many bottles were covered with hitching (generally
#3544). Loops, through which a lanyard was rove, were added at
the sides and on the bottom. As the bottle narrows toward the neck,
hitches were omitted at regular intervals. These bottles were taken
ashore by the sailor when watering, wooding and recruiting. Along-
side is pictured a sailor’s thimble.
[ 561 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3548. A fishline basket was stretched over the bottom of a bowl
or bottle and soaked and then allowed to dry. When dry it was
shellacked and painted. Similar baskets of crocheting were made
ashore, but whatever their origin, their destination was the same:
they always stood on the whatnot in the corner of the parlor and
held souvenirs. The one shown here is sailor’s work; it was started
with a small grommet in the end of the fishline at the bottom. Eight
stitches (as illustrated) are taken around the grommet, then an in-
and-out turn is taken about the structure, which passes through the
bottom loops of each of the hitches. The short end of the grommet is
left eight or ten inches long, and the two ends are brought together.
The needle end takes a turn around the loose end, as illustrated at the
right in the lower drawing. Then another series of hitches is added.
It will be noted that the turn of the cord that is added after the first
line of hitches doubles the number of the bights at the lower edge.
The next tier of hitches is taken through all these bights, which gives
sixteen hitches, the next tier omits every third bight, which gives
twenty-four hitches, and the next tier also omits every third bight,
which gives thirty-two hitches. Five uniform tiers are made with the
thirty-two hitches and the final row is buttonholed over, making the
top rim of the basket.
Pointing was named and described by Sir Henry Manway ring in
1644. Cables were pointed to make reeving through the hawse pipes
easier, and to keep them from fraying. They were frequently fin-
ished off with an eye so that they could be hauled out with a smaller
rope. On running rigging the avowed purpose of pointing was to
make reeving off tackles easier, but another and equally important
purpose was to prevent sailors from pilfering ropes’ ends for their
own use. This purpose was mentioned by Sir Henry Manwayring
in 1644.
3549. Luce calls this a hitched end. It was made with a needle.
With a knife or scissors, trim the end into the shape illustrated. Take
a number of close turns at the base and then hitch to the end as
#3544. Snake the first four or five turns.
3550. A Short Hawser Pointing, with an eye . The eye in this
case is for bending a heaving line. To make: An Eye Splice is put
into a short piece of small rope. The hawser is opened up and the
small rope is short spliced to the heart, or the center yarns, which
are laid up for the purpose. The ends of the splice are trimmed and
the hawser is tapered and hitched over as #3549. The neck of the
point is whipped and snaked.
3551. Underhand Round-Turn Pointing is put on with a needle.
Whip and open the rope, and lay back and stop a number of the sur-
face yarns. Scrape the inside yams to an even taper point. Parcel and
marl or else cover them with adhesive tape. Next lay down the sur-
face yarns tightly and seize them at the tip of the point. Take the
long end of the whipping that was first put on, ‘‘thread” it on a sail
needle and with it progress around the pointings first forward, tmder
two strands, then back over one, and forward again under two, etc.
Drop out yarns if the taper requires. When the point is covered,
whip and snake the tip.
3552. Overhand Round-Turn Pointing is made in much the same
way but the needle is thrust back under one, then forward over two,
and back under one, forward over two, etc., until complete.
[ 5 6 2 ]
DECORATIVE MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP (APPLIED KNOTS)
3553. Overhand Round-Turn Grafting is also called Overhand
Spanish Hitching, and resembles the pointing just shown. But in
this case the turns are in the fillers and not in the warp. An overhand
round turn is taken with each filler in rotation around the warp,
which is at all times held taut. The warp should be of stiffer material
than the fillers. Tarred fishline is excellent for the purpose.
3554. Underhand Round-Turn Grafting, also called Under-
hand Spanish Hitching. Each filler in rotation takes a round turn
about the warp, and the warp is kept straight. The texture of this
suggests snakeskin and is very handsome.
3555. 3556. Half Knot Grafting can hardly be told from the
Round-Turn Grafting just shown. Structurally the only difference
is that the turns in the fillers are taken in a direction opposite to the
lead of the warp. To make: Half knot and pull on the warp suffi-
ciently to keep it straight.
3557. To point a rope in the early 'way : Put on a whipping at some
distance from the end, open the rope, and lay back all the surface
yams . Make these up into tapered nettles as described at the begin-
ning of this chapter. Scrape the underneath yarns that were left and
make a smooth pencil-point taper; parcel and marl it over with sail
twine. It is now ready to graft, which is done in one of two ways.
The first, using an odd number of nettles, has already been described
as #2678. The commoner way, perhaps, is to employ an even number
of nettles. Arrange the nettles in two sets, the odd ones up, the even
ones down. The long end of the whipping, which was left for the
purpose, is to be used for the warp. With this warp take a Single
Hitch around the whole structure and draw it snug close to the
juncture of the two sets. Next turn the upper set of nettles down
and the lower set up, and single hitch again. Repeat until the point
is covered. With the same warp, whip and snake the tip. Put a snak-
ing on the base as well.
3558. Pointing with the yarns of the rope itself has been obsolete
for many years. The recent method has been to cover with fishline, or
sometimes with marline, after the rope’s end has been tapered. A
number of short pieces of line are doubled and seized at the base of
the pointing with several turns of the warp. With these ends and the
fishline warp, proceed exactly as described in #3557. The illustration
shows two turns at a time taken in the warp.
3559. The most common pointing is needle hitching, described
as #3544. Pointings are seldom used nowadays except on manropes,
yoke ropes and life lines, or on any other rope that has to be fre-
quently rove. Points are often needle hitched to the end, as in #3 549.
3560. Grafting three turns of the warp is shown here, the last
being hitched as illustrated in ^ 3 557- When the warp is multiplied
in this manner it should be of much smaller material than the nettles.
The tip, having been reduced to a few nettles, may be crowned and
the ends withdrawn under the covering, employing a loop buttoner
for the purpose. The base of the point in the illustration bears a
Turk’s-Head.
3561. The texture of grafting may be varied. This illustrates a
point in which two sets of nettles are always turned down and one
set up. The nettles should taper and, in this case, their number is not
divisible by three.
3SS1
[ 563 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3562. A poivtcd cable generally has an Eye Splice in the end so
that by means of a smaller rope it may be hauled out the hawse hole.
A whipping is put on at about two feet from the end, for a twelve-
inch cable. The end is opened, and the surface yarns laid back and
stopped. The three center strands (one from each of the three ropes
that constitute the cable) are laid up into a rope. A short piece of
rope somewhat smaller than one of the component ropes of the cable
has an Eye Splice put into it, and this in turn is spliced to the heart
that was just made. The remaining yarns of the cable are trimmed
and scraped to a symmetrical point, which is parceled and marled
over. The surface yarns that were laid out are next scraped and
tapered, waxed and laid up into an odd number of Three- or Five-
Strand Flat Sinnets. These sinnets are now grafted in the same way
that the nettles were in #2678. The tip is whipped and snaked and
also the base. This point is described by Sir Henry Manwayring in
1644.
Round Sinnet, Cross-Pointing and Cross-Grafting are made
alike, but Round Sinnet has no core, Cross-Pointing has a tapered
core and Cross-Grafting has a cylindrical core. All three require
an even number of strands.
Round Sinnet is made of four, six, and sometimes eight strands.
Beyond that it requires a core and becomes automatically, according
to the shape of the core, either pointing or grafting.
The strands for pointings should be tapered; if the strands have
insufficient taper, superfluous ones must be cut out from time to time.
3563. Cross-Pointing is made like Round Sinnet. The surface
yarns are laid up into an even number of nettles, which are divided,
and alternate strands are turned down. Proceed as directed for
#3024. Finish off in one of the ways already given— that is, with a
seizing, a snaking or a Turk’s-Head. Steel (1796) gives “Cross-
Pointing” as the proper covering for a Mouse or splice.
3564. A coachwhipped point is similar to the last but is either two ,
three-, or four-ply. This is made directly as #3022 with double
strands.
3565. A pointing may be covered with Eight- or Twelve-Strand
Square Sinnet. The texture is distinctive, quite different from
Coachwhipping (#3564).
Still another texture may be obtained by helixing and seizing one
set of strands at the tip of the pointing and then tucking the other
set in the opposite direction, over two and under two, or over three
and under three.
3566. Dana says, “If rope is too weak for pointing, put in a piece
of stick.” This cone is grafted over as #3557, with fishline seized
to the rope’s end.
3567. The tip of a point was often rounded and covered with
white duck or turkey red cloth.
3568. Manrope points are often canvas-covered and painted. The
canvas cover is a continuation or the beginning of the canvas cover-
ing of the rope proper. The ends of the worming are hidden at the
base of the point by a Narrow Turk’s-Head.
[ 564 ]
DECORATIVE MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP (APPLIED KNOTS)
3569. A sailmakcr's taper point or rattail is put into the ends of
the boltrope of small-boat sails, doing away with a leech rope. They
are sewed to the leech just below the peak and just above the clew.
Even large and heavy sails might be improved if leech rope were
done away with and a wide and heavier tabling substituted.
Make the rattail as described in Long Short Splice #2643; con-
tinue the taper until only two or three yarns are left in each strand.
Give the end a palm-and-needle whipping (#3446). Sailmakers, in
derision, characterize a poorly made rattail, a “carrot.”
3570. Rough Pointing. For use when a rope or strand is to be rove
in an emergency. Open the end and, with a knife, shears or an ax,
cut off the strands or yarns at different lengths with long diagonal
cuts. Lay up and serve over, against the lay, with electrician’s tape,
starting at the base. Tallow well and reeve. Useful when splicing
hawsers and cable.
3571. A cloth cap is sometimes seen on yoke ropes instead of
knots. The macrame bag shown among the frontispieces has them of
turkey red. The end is raveled and trimmed to acorn shape. A piece
of red cloth is seized over the acorn and a Four-Bight, Three-
Lead, Three-Ply Turk’s-Head is put over the seizing.
3572. A shroud cap . The upturned ends of shrouds, after they
have turned the deadeyes, are capped with brass, a piece of tarred
canvas, rawhide or sheet lead to keep out the moisture. The end is
served over and snaked.
3573. This illustrates a white cotton yoke rope with a thistle-
shaped cap. The end is seized, raveled and encircled with a Four-
Lead, Five-Bight, Three-Ply Turk’s-Head over the whipping, the
whipping having been first “built up,” somewhat in the manner of a
Mouse.
3574. The caps of yacht shrouds, before the days of turnbuckles,
were sometimes finished off with a Wide Turk’s-Head. A Five-
Lead, Four-Bight, Two-Ply Turk’s-Head is illustrated here (see
#1322 et seq for details of manufacture).
3575. Pigtails were put on the hooks of davit tackle falls on all
whale ships. This allowed of instant and certain uncoupling. A Mat-
thew Walker Knot was put in the end of the pigtail , the other end
was opened and rove through the eye of the hook and then was
strongly grafted ($3557) to the shank. The end of the grafting was
seized around the hook and pigtail.
3576. 3577. Queues were worn in the Navy by enlisted men well
into the nineteenth century. They were made in two ways— either
laid up into a rattail similar to $3569, or else platted as ordinary
Four-Strand Square Sinnet (#2999). A cask of eelskins, well
pickled in brine, was kept handy. The queue was tightly worked to
a point, and the eelskin, having been carefully rolled wrong side out
into the form of a doughnut, was rolled back over the queue and
seized. On dress occasions it was finished off with ribbon and bow.
Every three or four months it had to be replenished, which was
made necessary by the normal growth of the hair.
[565]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
We are now come to the subject of swabs (deck, hand and dish).
Ashore these are generally termed mops. Since they are structurally
the same, tassels also will be discussed at the same time. Mops have
wooden handles; deck swabs have a long rope lanyard and the head
may be two or three feet long. Aboard oystermen very large swabs
five to eight feet long are used for mopping up the starfish, which are
the natural enemy of the oyster. A long line of mops is dragged
over the beds and the starfish cling to them and are hauled aboard.
Cabin, table and dish swabs are often fitted with beckets.
3578. The simplest swab is made of a middled and seized piece of
rope with the strands raveled out. If for dishes or the table, the
swab is used without a lanyard, but if for swabbing deck, a long lan-
yard, finished off with either a Dog’s Point or an Eye Splice, is
made fast to the becket with a Becket Hitch. As this knot is always
used for the purpose, it is sometimes called the Swab Hitch.
3579. A more elaborate and fuller swab is made through a grom-
met. Rope yarns are wound into a skein, which is middled and put
through the grommet and there seized and snaked.
3580. The swab just described is sometimes finished off with a
Turk’s-Head instead of a seizing.
3581. After the grommet is made, the ends need not be trimmed
short; they can be utilized as the center of the swab, so that fewer
v
turns need be added.
3582. A tassel is often made through a metal ring instead of a
grommet, in the same manner as through a grommet (# 3579 ).
3583. Deck swabs have long lanyards to give them greater scope.
On small craft they are often dipped directly overside, but on larger
craft they are dipped into tubs on deck that have been filled by draw
buckets.
3584. Table and dish swabs are often ornamented. In this case a
rope is formed into an eye which serves as a handle. A Matthew
Walker Knot is tied in the six strands of the handle, and the ends
are raveled out. Yarns are laid along the rope and are middled and
seized to the handle just above the knot. They are faired, led down-
ward, and a final seizing is put on, close below the knot.
3585. A groove is sometimes cut around a wooden handle and a
seizing is tied over the groove; this allows the seizing to sink, mak-
ing it firmer and less subject to wear. Elaborate dish mop handles
were often made at sea to be taken home as gifts.
3586. Frequently the bulbous parts of mops and swabs are hitched
over (#3544). As this is one of the points of greatest wear, the life
of the mop is much lengthened thereby.
<66
DECORATIVE MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP (APPLIED KNOTS)
3587 . A swab or tassel similar to #3584 may be made around a
single rope by tying a Figure-Eight Knot in the lanyard. After
seizing the yarns above and below the knot, mouse over the knob
with yarn and encircle it with a Wide Turk’s-Head.
3588 . Needlework covering #3544 or #3547 may be used on
either swab #3584 or #3585. A small sail needle is required for this
purpose.
3589 . Tie two Wall Knots and a full Matthew Walker Knot
near the end of a lanyard, put seizings over the swab between the
knots and put Narrow Turk’s-Heads over the seizings. Almost any
of the swabs that have been shown may be employed for tassels,
although some of the tassels that follow will hardly do for swabs.
3590 . A tassel that is based on Shroud Knot # 1 590. Make this of
three-strand rope. Manila is best, flax will do and cotton is apt to be
a bit difficult. Tie the Shroud Knot as directed, then cut off the rope
and ravel the inside rope as well as the outside one.
3591 . A Chinese tassel. Whittle off the rims from a large linen
thread spool. Countersink the bottom end to allow it to hold a knot.
With an awl make six small holes from the outside into the center
hole near the top end. With a needle reeve silk thread through all
six holes and allow all ends to hang several inches below the spool.
Seize temporarily with a Constrictor. Reeve a lanyard down
through the center hole and knot with a Figure-Eight. Smooth out
the silk threads and serve over the whole length of the spool with
silk in two or more colors, and trim the tassel ends all square. Make
with different-colored worsted if preferred, or with colored string.
Secure the ends of the service as described for whipping #3443.
3592 . This tassel is from a Chinese priest cord that is photographi-
cally reproduced among the frontispieces. The mold is turned on
a lathe and the tassel is covered with netting, but ribbing #3547
will do nicely. A larger hole is countersunk at the bottom, the
cord is rove through it and knotted. Silk, worsted, or cotton threads
are middled and knotted into the groove with a Constrictor Knot
and then the ends are trimmed.
3593 . A simple tassel for a fringe, window-shade or electric-light
pull. Take a piece of cardboard of twice the length of the tassel and
fold it lengthwise. Cut two crosswise slits near the top as shown in
the illustration, and punch small holes at the ends of the slits. Lay a
lanyard across the top. Wind yarn, thread or cord lengthwise on
the cardboard. Tie two Constrictor Knots around the structure and
through the slits. Secure the lanyard and draw the knots tight. Cut all
strands at the bottom and remove the card.
f 567 ]
O'(M>~n-0
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3594. A leather tassel for a horse’s bridle. Slit only the bottom
edge of a rectangular piece of leather into a series of narrow widths.
Sew the end of a platted lanyard to the edge, on the rough side. Soak
in warm water and roll the leather tightly around the lanyard. Roll
underfoot to make smooth. Seize it temporarily to hold in position,
sew it tightly in place. Cover the solid neck with a Turk’s-Head
of the same or other material.
3595. A tassel for cord shoestrings on bathing shoes and other
summer footgear. The shoestring itself may first be made as de-
scribed for foxes and nettles at the beginning of this chapter. If
desired, different-colored strands may be laid up together. Having a
string of the right length, tie a Matthew Walker Knot a little
way from the ends and then ravel the end.
3596. This flat tassel of white silk was on the sash of a maroon
bathrobe. Two Flat Knots are required for each tassel and they are
made three-ply and completed before being put in place. The tassel
is made on a card as $3593 and is sewed flat to the sash, which is
pleated once to correspond to the width of the knots, wo knots
are sewed to each end of the sash, one on each side covering the
upper part of the tassel. Sew carefully around the edges and tack
a few times through the center. To tie one of the knots: Enlarge the
drawing and pin the knot out over the copy. Any other Flat Knot
may be employed in this way if desired.
3597. Another shoestring tassel similar to #3595 is an adaptation
of Diamond Knot # 735 .
3598. A pompon is made by cutting out two flat doughnut-shaped
pieces of cardboard, placing them together and sewing around and
around with cord, string, or yarn, until the center hole is tightly
filled. Then take a safety-razor blade and carefully cut along the
edge. Insert a wire between the sheets of cardboard and wind it sev-
eral times very tightly around the center core and twist the ends
together. Finally remove the two cards and trim carefully with scis-
sors until a uniformly round ball is made.
For a pendant ball for curtains, shades, fringes, etc., instead of
wire take a stout cord and tie a Constrictor in the center bight,
around the core between the two cards. Either leave the ends long
for a lanyard or else bend them together so that the knot is hidden
in the texture of the ball.
3599. A decorative curtain holdback may be made with a series of
any of the Two-Cord Lanyard Knots of Chapter 8. Make the loop
first and finish off with a tassel.
3600. Another curtain holdback. Make tassel #3584 with a light
cord and a Long Eye. Make a separate doubled cord with a loop at
either end or else with two rings. Loop the tassel eye as in the upper
drawing, bring one of these loops up through one eye of the hold-
back, do likewise with the other. Place one loop of the tassel over
the other and reeve the tassel through them both.
3601. A more formal holdback may be made as sea gasket # 3477 .
A Multi-Strand Button from Chapter 9 or 10 may be put in one
end, or a neatly turned toggle may be seized in.
1 568 1
DECORATIVE MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP (APPLIED KNOTS)
3602. Ringbolt Hitching. Whenever a ship laid to anchor, before
the days of chain cables, her hemp cable was made fast by means
of stoppers to two rows of ringbolts that were fastened along the
deck. The chafing gear on these rings was termed “Ringbolt Hitch-
ing.” Another old name for it was “platted rings.” Nowadays it is
sometimes called “hog backing,” which is, I believe, a literal trans-
lation of the Swedish name. A picturesque needlework term,
“cockscombing,” has recently been applied. In the old days ringbolts
were sometimes grafted over, but on slovenly craft they were merely
served over.
Ringbolt Hitching is also put on the eyes of chest beckets and
hammock clews, and occasionally it is seen on the clews of light sails,
on the eyes of block straps and ditty bag lanyards. Single hitching
is the simplest form. The circumference of the outside of the ring
being greater than the inside, service did not fill up the spaces and
was very apt to “work” and chafe. So hitches were added which
filled up the interstices of the outer edge and held all firm.
3603. Double Hitching is used on a heavy ring—that is, one in
which the wire is large in proportion to the diameter.
3604. Kackling or keckling is probably the commonest of the
knotted forms. It consists of a series of alternate left and right hitches.
3605. Ringbolt Hitching, per se, is made with three strands which
are led in regular rotation; each time a strand is worked, the lead is
reversed and a Single Hitch taken around the ring. The ends should
be seized when starting the hitching. When completed, a skillful
workman will take a needle and, withdrawing a strand from one end,
will lay in a strand from the opposite end, so that the ends are scat-
tered as in a Long Splice.
3606. Five-Strand Ringbolt Hitching is worked in exactly the
same manner and resembles Five-Strand Flat Sinnet. Keep all
strands snug at all times. If the material is slippery the ring may be
shellacked and covered while “tacky,” or it may be parceled first
with adhesive tape.
3607. The semblance of French Sinnet may be applied to Ring-
bolt Hitching. Having noted that the previous forms resemble Flat
or English Sinnet, it was a simple matter to evolve this.
3608. Two-Ply Hitching is made with two strands which are
both knotted to the right as pictured, and then they are reversed and
both knotted to the left, and so on, alternately.
3609. Two-Strand Ringbolt Hitching superficially resembles
# 3605 , but the two strands have separate cycles: one is always
hitched to the right and the other always to the left.
3610. Zigzag Hitching may be made with any number of strands,
but three, four or five are ample. All are hitched in regular order,
first to the left as pictured and then to the right, and so continued
alternately.
[ 569 ]
IMF, ASHLFY BOOK OF KNOTS
3611. Buttonholing is sometimes found around the eyes of chest
beckets and on ditty bag eyelets. It is put in with a sail needle as are
the remaining Ringbolt Hitches on this page. There are a number of
different wavs of making the buttonhole stitch. The technique
given here was shown me by Mrs. H. R. Scudder.
3612. The stitch required in Rib Stitch Hitching has already been
shown as #3547, but in ringbolt hitching only a single rib is made
around the outer circumference of the ring.
3613. Single-Strand Ringbolt Hitching, per se. The needle
passes under one more part than in #3614, otherwise it is worked
about the same, but the effect is a little fuller. It can scarcely be told,
when completed, from Three-Strand Hitching (#3605). Start as
in the upper diagram, continue as below.
3614. Single-Strand French Sinnet Hitching. Start as in #3613
but tuck wider one part on the downward passage and follow with a
hitch around the ring instead of a turn. When leading the strand
from the left side, it is passed over the first strand and under the last
strand to be crossed and then is single hitched around the ring to the
right. It is then thrust to the left under three strands, which com-
pletes the full cycle.
Griswold, in Handicraft , gives a thong work edging on page 70
that is very closely related to this Ringbolt Hitching.
3615. A wider Single-Strand French Sinnet Hitching may be
made which superficially resembles Five-Strand Hitching (#3607),
It may appear a little complicated at the start, but is not difficult to
work" Until the fourth diagram is reached it closely resembles a
Turk’s-Head, each diagonal being crossed with alternate over-and-
under sequence. But when diagram 4 is half completed the needle
crosses the front of the ring downward under all five leads. The
needle is then turned and takes a right upward diagonal, crossing
three leads: over, under, over. It is then led around the ring to the
right and finally makes a left upward diagonal, over, under, over,
which completes the cycle. It is now ready to be led downward
again under five leads. Exercise care in drawing up and keep the
structure fair and taut at all times.
3616. Commercial 'window-shade rings may be covered in the
manner illustrated, using for a tool a crochet or netting needle, but
the same thing may be made with the fingers. Tie a Slip Knot around
the ring, then bring a loop up at the back (the second diagram).
A bight from the standing part is next brought across the front of
the ring and through both loops, as shown with an arrow in th<*
second diagram. Everything being firmly in place, another loop is
brought up at the back and then the course indicated by the arrow is
repeated.
[ 570 ]
DECORATIVE MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP (APPLIED KNOTS)
3617 . Another Loop Hitching. Bring a loop up first from one
face of the ring and then the other. Each time it is thrust through
the previous loop, which is then drawn snug.
3618 . A hitching with a very pronounced ridge is made with a sail
needle. Start as in the first diagram, proceed as in the second diagram
and continue as in the third, and thereafter repeat two and three
alternately. Draw up snugly, but not enough to distort.
3619 . A ringbolt hitched harpoon mounting , on a two-flued Arctic
iron, that was collected in Provincetown. The two-flued iron has
been out of use in the whaling industry for almost exactly one
hundred years, which approximately places the date of this mount-
ing. The becket is wormed and all six strands are seized and tapered.
One strand takes a round turn about the socket toward the rim and
then is teased and laid down the socket to be covered by the remain-
ing five strands. The five are hitched as in #3606 and when the shank
is reached they are opened, teased and served over for several inches.
A Three-Bight, Five-Lead, Tiiree-Ply Turk’s-Head is put on at
the base of the socket.
3620 . A one-flued iron with a grafted mounting. This iron was in
use about 1840.
3621 . Ringbolt Hitching applied to an early toggle iron, circa
1845. The eye is spliced directly around the socket, and a becket
for bending the whale line is formed with the bight. The end of the
hitching is seized and snaked. These three harpoons are now in the
collection of the Mariners’ Museum in Newport News.
The most familiar bit of sailor’s knot work that remains to us is
his sea chest beckets. They have survived because the chest itself was
too practical a piece of furniture to be cast aside. When brought
back from sea it has generally been put to some domestic task;
to serve perhaps as woodbox or coal scuttle, as clothes chest or cel-
larette, as grain or vegetable bin, as attic catchall— I have even seen
one in a barn serving as a nesting place for a setting hen.
Often a sea chest has a sloping front designed to keep it from
being topheavy and also to save the sailor’s shins in a seaway. Some-
times the back also slopes, and, very rarely, the ends as well. The best
type of becket clears the lid of the chest just enough to spare the
sailor’s knuckles.
Richard H. Dana, Jr., in the Seaman'’ s Manual (1841), defines the
word becket as follows: “A handle made of rope in the form of a
circle, as the handle of a chest, is called a becket.” W. Clark Russell
(Sailors’’ Language, London, 1883) and Olsen ( Fisherman’s Seaman-
ship, Grimsby, 1885) give similar definitions. Several writers of fic-
tion and verse have called them shackles, a name suggested no doubt
by their shape, and the title, so sponsored, has even entered the Ox-
ford Dictionary, while the real name is still knocking at the door.
[ 571 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3622. A selvagee bail for a chest becket.
3623. A cleat of the usual type by means of which the becket is
attached to the sea chest.
3624. A rope bail with Eye Splices.
3625. Pinked washers, four to each becket, generally are made of
boot-top leather, red leather when it is obtainable.
3626. The handle or grip is shaped by mousing.
3627. The bolt is either three- or four-strand rope, leather-cov-
ered where it passes through the cleat. The strands, where they are
knotted, are canvas-covered.
3628. After a knot is tied in one end, the becket is ready to be
assembled. The second knot on the bolt is the last thing to be made.
3629. The beckets on this page are taken from the end papers of
this book and are in the same order.
This one is from an officer’s chest, which is much larger than a sailor’s
chest, the latter being limited to thirty-six inches over all, as two chests
must stand end to end in front of each tier of berths. The material is
hard-twisted fishline, painted red clay and dark blue. Knobs are Five-
Bight X Four-Lead X Eight-Ply Turk’s-Heads, over Manrope Knots,
navy workmanship, probably. The eyes and necks are grafted, the re-
mainder is Ten-Strand Round Sinnet. The Turk’s-Heads on the bail
are Four-Ply Knots. They are, top to bottom, Five-Lead X Four-Bight,
Four-Lead X Five-Bight, and Three-Lead X Four-Bight.
3630. Double beckets , for two hands, are very rare. A large offi-
cer’s chest of teakwood. Knobs, Three-Strand Manropes. Eyes,
needle hitching #3544. Turk’s-Heads, Three-Lead X Four-Bight
X Four-Ply. Bails, cloth-covered and wormed.
3631. A pine chest with slope front and back. Knobs, Four-Strand
Manropes’ Eyes grafted. Turk’s-Heads, Seven-Lead X Six-Bight
X Four-Ply. Bail, Three-Ply, Eight-Strand Coachwhipping.
3632. A brassbound teakwood chest, carved cleats, hitched grom-
met, Three-Lead X Five-Bight X Three-Ply Turk’s-Heads.
3633. A Chinese brassbound camphor chest. Cleats of teak carved
to represent wormed rope. Knobs, Four-Strand, Two-Ply Man-
ropes, Hitched Eyes. Bails, Eight-Strand Round Sinnet. Turk’s-
Head, Three-Lead X Four-Bight X Three-Ply.
3634. A pine chart chest, 14" X X 42", with double beckets.
The long upper beckets allow one man to carry the chest, as charts
weigh very little. Manrope Knobs, long beckets parceled with blue
jeans and wormed. The short beckets are Eight-Strand Round Sin-
net strands covered with blue jeans. Eyes grafted.
3635. A pine officer’s chest owned by Mrs. Frank Wood. The
center is Underhand Grafting #3554. Matthew Walker Knots
covered with leather slashed and collared. White whalebone grips.
3636. A ship’s papers chest, owned by Mrs. F. Gilbert Hinsdale.
Carved cleats, Six-Strand Round Sinnet bails. Manrope Knobs.
3637. A small chest, with drawnwork fringe, whale ivory hearts
inlaid on the cleats. Becket made as $3632, red-cloth-covered and
wormed with fishline.
3638. A slope-front teak chest, with wormed grommets.
3639. Mahogany chest. Knobs are Three-Strand Star. The eyes
are ringbolt hitched. Bail (top to bottom), Turk’s-Head, Three-
Lead X Five-Bight X Three-Ply, fine Cross-Pointing. Turk’s-
Head, Three-Lead X Four-Bight X Four-Ply ribbing, Eight-
Strand Star Knots. Grip, Four-Ply Coachwhipping.
3640. A pine officer’s chest. Three-Strand Manrope Knobs. Eyes
ringbolt hitched. Bail grafted, Turk’s-Heads, Three-Lead X Four-
Bight X Three-Ply.
DECORATIVE MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP (APPLIED KNOTS)
3641. Knobs, Six-Strand Manrope Knots. Eyes and necks
grafted. TurkVHeads Five-Bight X Three-Lead X Four-Ply.
Bail, coachwhipped.
3642. Knobs, Four-Strand Manrope Knots. Rope wormed. Lan-
yard Knot below and the whipping snaked. A similar becket in the
Mystic Marine Museum has Eye Splice $2783 instead of a Man-
rope Knot at the top.
3643. Knobs, Three-Strand Manrope Knots. Eyes and neck
duck-covered. Bail, Ten-Strand Round Sinnet, strand duck-cov-
ered. TurkVHeads all Five-Bight X Three-Lead X Three-Ply.
3644. Knobs, Five-Strand Manrope Knots. Eyes ringbolt hitched
(# 3608 ). Leather collars, pinked, Five-Bight X Three-Lead X
Three-Ply TurkVHeads. Legs, Overhand Spanish Hitchings.
Grip, Eight-Strand Coachwhipping of black enamel cloth.
3645. This becket is of interest because it is on the miniature chest
which held the papers of the ship Acushnet . The name decorates
the front of the box. It was on this ship that Herman Melville made
his whaling voyage to the South Seas in 1837 . The beckets are only
three and a half inches in their outside diameter.
3646. Manrope Knots. The eyes and neck are grafted .
When the point where the grip is started is reached forty-eight larger
threads (fishline) are substituted for those that were being used and the
joint is covered by a Three-Lead X Six-Bight X Five-Ply Turk’s-Head.
The forty-eight threads are divided into sets of four, and are grafted as
follows: Four knots are taken as $3555 and then four as $ 3556 . This is
continued alternately until six complete tiers of the warp have been taken.
Then six more rows are taken exactly in the same way except that $3 556
now comes below the first $3555 and they continue to alternate. This is
repeated until four rows of six have been completed, when one extra
thread is added to each set of four so that there are sixty threads in all.
Six rows of six knots are made this size, then the extra threads are
dropped out and the becket finished as it was begun.
3647. Four-Strand Manrope Knots. Eyes and necks are needle
hitched . Mid-sections of nettles made into Twelve-Strand Round
Sinnet. Grip is coach'ivhipped of the same nettles. TurkVHeads
Five-Bight X T hree-Lead X Three-Ply.
3648. Unusual pattern, perhaps unique. I have never seen another.
They are very old but never were used. Pinked leather collar. Three-
Strand Manrope Knobs. Duck-covered and wormed Four-Bight X
Three-Lead X Three-Ply TurkVHeads. The seizings of fishline
have riding but no crossing turns.
3649. Four-Strand Manrope Knots. Eyes, bolt and grips are of
grafting. Mid-sections are Ten-Strand Round Sinnet.
3650. Three-Strand Manrope Knobs, eyes ringbolt hitched
(# 3605 ), grips grafted, mid-section cloth-covered and wormed.
3651. A toggle grip becket , grafted.
3652. Fivf-Strand Manrope Knobs. Eyes and neck hitched over,
grip canvas-covered and wormed.
3653. A bedroom knocker with a brass plate. A Flat Sinnet hinge
(#2971) is knotted on the back of the plate. Small TurkVHeads
on a leather collar keep the knocker from shifting. Shroud Knot
# 1583 is at the bottom.
3654. All the knots above the white whalebone grip are Four-
Strand Star Knots and the becket is of Four-Strand Round Sinnet
with a knot every two and a half inches. Below the grip are two
Matthew Walker Knots with slashed leather covers ($ 724 ).
3655. A small grafted becket with a Turk’s-Head at the bottom
makes an attractive bedroom knocker.
&
omto
[ 573 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3656. If your satchel or suitcase handle fails you and there is no
time to visit the luggage shop, make yourself a cringle (#2848).
3657. But if there is sufficient time at your disposal, form the
handle selvagee-fashion (#3622), marl with waxed sail twine, shape
it nicely (#3626) with spun yarn or other soft stuff and cover with
a Ringbolt Hitching ($3604) of Italian marline, which has a nice
brown color.
3658. Drawer pulls on a yacht should be shipshape. These were
on Waldo Howland’s sloop Escape . The eye around the toggle was
made of Four-Strand French Sinnet. It was seized close and a
short section of Eight-Strand Round Sinnet laid up. An Eight-
Strand, Three-Tuck Matthew Walker Knot was formed close
to the outside of the drawer and a Wall Knot on the inside. The
end was whipped and snaked, and the Wall Knot countersunk.
3659. A neat knob for a swing door on a boat can be formed of
a Four-Strand Manrope Knot. If the door opens two ways, have
a Manrope Knot at both sides. Close to each side of the door make
either a Wall Knot (#671) or a Single Diamond (#693).
3660. A Knotted Eye. Either #2981 or #2982 will serve nicely
or the rope ends may be opened and seized flatly together and a
Diamond Knot or Matthew Walker Knot (#682) tied. For the
inside a Diamond or a Wall will serve. This makes a nice drawer
pull.
3661. An umbrella strap was made of a silk cord with the ends
bent together with a Shroud Knot (#1587). A grommet will also
serve nicely as an umbrella cord.
3662. For lifting a scuttle, employ any Flat Multi-Strand But-
ton Knot. Bore a hole through the scuttle large enough to take the
rope. Leave a stem about three inches long and tie a Matthew
Walker Knot on the underside, whipping the end. Have the
countersunk hole just large enough so that the knot can be easily
reached with the fingers.
3663. The simplest form of chest becket. If the wood is thick
enough, knots may be countersunk.
3664. A grommet drawer handle may be seized in by boring two
small holes about a quarter of an inch apart, one above the other,
three eighths of an inch in diameter. Use Italian yacht marline and
add a smooth layer of frapping l|irns.
3665. The handles pictured here are on the ends of the benches
in “The Galley,” a restaurant on a wharfhead in Fairhaven. Man-
rope Knots are used.
3666. Deck bucket bails commonly are of three-strand rope and
are finished off with Matthew Walker Knots (#682). These are
whipped but not snaked. Serrated leather washers are worn between
the bucket ear and the knot. On a well-made bail a leather collar
is added.
[ 574 1
DECORATIVE MARLING SPIKE SEAMANSHIP (APPLIED KNOTS)
3667. A kit is a deck bucket , larger at the bottom than at the top.
It is less apt to slop over in a seaway. This also is equipped with
Matthew Walker Knots.
3668. Mess bucket and fire bucket bails are four-strand ropes,
wormed, and generally finished off with Lanyard Knots, and some-
times with Manrope Knots.
3669. Many mess buckets have hickory bails and the hinge is often
a bone or ivory button, with a small hickory fid on the inside.
3670. Draw buckets are heavily made, as they are subjected to very
hard service. The heaviest canvas is used, and the best-made ones
have chafing gear added wherever it will serve a purpose. T his one
has a grommet at the rim and bottom, and a rope yarn sinnet is ap-
pliqued to the canvas surface. The bail is eye spliced to the grommet
rim, an eye is seized into the bail to which the bucket rope is made
fast, with a Single Becket Hitch. The end of the bucket rope is
generally finished off either with an Eye Splice or a Dog’s Point
(#2813).
3671. This is an old, heavy-duty draw bucket from a high-sided
ship, which I donated to the half-size model ship Lagoda. The canvas
is of two pieces sewed flat together. An iron hoop at the top is
hemmed over, Seven-Strand Flat Sinnet is appliqued in different
designs to the two sides. The bail passes entirely around the bucket
and a thimble is seized in at the top. The bucket rope is eye spliced
to the thimble and the splice itself is hitched over. There is a Long
Eye Splice in the end of the bucket rope. It came from a junk shop
in San Francisco. Small mast hoops have often been used at the tops
and bottoms of draw buckets; not uncommonly they have wooden
bottoms.
3672. This is a ship's paper case; it was always taken ashore by the
captain when the ship made port. The case was often made of brass,
but old ones were also of wood, canvas-covered. This one bears the
name of the ship on its side. The canvas is sewed through awl holes
in the wood around the upper edge. The top of the lid is hitched
over decoratively with linen thread. The bottom is surrounded with
about eight circuits of hitching and there is a linen thread seizing
across the center.
3673. The most efficient means of crushing ice that I have found
is a hand-sewn No. 1 canvas bag twenty-two inches long and ten
inches wide. This is filled with ice and beaten with a heavy lignum-
vitae mallet against a stone hearth. If the edges of the mallet are
rounded slightly with a file, the bag will last a lifetime and give
better service than any other hand-driven device for the same pur-
go- is held by the neck and swung
D * T
pose. I t i s equally eff
against the stone, but this requires more energy than should be
exerted in warm weather.
3666
3 667
3 67 0
367 /
[ 575 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3674. A binoculars case that was used at the “lookout” of a whaler.
The flap is secured with a little wooden toggle.
3675. This ditty bag was from the Nantucket Shoals Lightship.
It has a knitted “purse” of fishline (#2877) and a wooden bottom,
leather-taped and studded with brass tacks.
3676. An ordinary ditty bag is made from two pieces of light
duck, preferably linen, with from four to twelve eyelet holes around
the hem for splicing in the lanyard legs. The bottom is round.
3677. The average size of a ditty bag is about seven inches by four-
teen inches. The lanyard is about eighteen inches long and the
handle or grip is about eight inches of the length. The length of the
legs exceeds one half the circumference of the bag.
3678. A clothesbag is usually of heavier material, and is anywhere
from one foot to two feet in diameter and from thirty inches to
forty-two inches in length.
There are from six to twelve eyelet holes and the length of the bag plus
the length of lanyard should not exceed six feet since it is designed to be
hung in the forecastle. The legs of the lanyard should be equal in length
to the diameter of the bag, so a wide bag should be short and a long bag
should be narrow. The seams are made as the seams of a sail (#3531 and
#353 2 )-
3679. A roped canvas game bag with a wooden thimble or but-
ton sewed flat against the surface.
3680. This clothesbag lanyard is a sport. It has but two legs with
Eye Splices in the ends. The becket is an iron ring, hitched over
with #3605; the handle is Six-Strand Round Sinnet finished off
with Sinnet Knot (#757), and a Turk’s-Head closes the bag.
3681. Many old ditty bags have their seams piped, often in red
and blue wool. Clothesbags are more seldom piped. The handle of
this bag is Eight-Strand Square Sinnet.
3682. A clothesbag. A Running Turk’s-Head of stiff fishline
slides up and down the legs and serves to close the bag. The ends of
the legs are eye spliced to the eyelet holes.
3683. The strands on this bag lead through an ivory sleeve and
finish off with a Matthew Walker Knot (see frontispiece). The
weight of the bag automatically closes the top when it is hung up.
3684. Here the strands are knotted to a small brass sleeve, and the
legs draw together when the weight of the bag is put on a hook.
3685. A commercial handbag with frogs and loops.
3686. A loop and button fastening (#659).
3687. A ten-legged clothesbag lanyard. Lay up a three-inch sec-
tion of Eight-Strand Crown Sinnet around a two-strand core and
put Multi -Strand Button #964 on the short ends.
Add Sinnet Knot #757 to the long ends. Lay up one and a half inches
of Ten-Strand Round Sinnet (#3021). Add a series of six Star Knots
(#727) one and a half inches apart with Round Sinnet in between them.
After the second Star Knot, lay out two heart strands, and after the
fourth knot, two strands more; seize and cut the ends off. After the six
Star Knots, make another one and a half inches of Round Sinnet and
finish off with Sinnet Knot #757. Seize two small grommets opposite
each other below the top button and cover the seizing with a Three-
Lead x Five-Bight x Three-Ply Turk’s-Head.
3688. The typical ditty bag lanyard of six strands is as follows:
Middle and lay up three pieces of small line to form an eye about
one and a half inches long. Tie a Matthew Walker Knot (#731)
and add a section of Round Sinnet six inches long. Follow with a
Diamond Knot (#693) and another section of Round Sinnet and
finally add another knot the same as the first one,
[ 576 ]
DECORATIVE MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP (APPLIED KNOTS)
3689. Make in the following order: A becket of Four-Strand
Square Sinnet/ Eight-Strand Matthew Walker/ Eight-Strand
Crown Sinnet/ Six-Strand Star 7 Eight-Strand Crown Sinnet/
Eight-Strand Matthew Walker/ Two legs Four-Strand Square
Sinnet/ Eight-Strand Six-Part Matthew Walker/ Eight-Strand
Round Sinnet/ Two-Strand Lanyard Knot # 792 / Six-Strand
Round Sinnet Six-Strand Sinnet Knot # 757 .
3690. The strands of a lanyard laid out ready to be tied into knots.
First an eye of Six-Strand Round Sinnet/ Lanyard, Twelve-
Strand Matthew Walker/ Twelve-Strand Square Sinnet Two-
Strand Standing Turk's-Head #1293/ Eight-Strand Round Sinnet
( leaving two heart strands) / Single-Strand Turk’s-Head/ Nine-Strand
Triangular Sinnet #3028/ Single-Strand Turk's-Head/ Eight-Strand
Square Sinnet/ Four-Strand Standing Turk’s-Head/ Four-Strand
Square Sinnet/ One-Strand Turk’s-Head/ Thrf.e-Strand Flat Sinnet,
One-Strand Turk’s-Head ' Two-Strand Sinnet #2907/ One-Strand
Turk’s-Head / One-Strand Chain #2869.
3691. Eye, Six-Strand Round Sinnet/ Single Diamond 7 Eight-
Strand Round Sinnet, four-strand core/ Twelve-Strand Single
Diamond/ Eight-Strand Crown Sinnet with four-strand core/
Double Diamond/ Twelve-Strand Crown Sinnet/ Double Dia-
mond Knot/ Crown and Reverse Sinnet/ Footrope Knot.
3692. Eye, Six-Strand Round Sinnet/ lanyard, Twelve-Strand
Sinnet Knot/ Round Sinnet over urn-shaped wooden core/ Three-
Lead, Four-Bight, Four-Ply Turk’s-Head/ two legs of Six-Strand
Round Sinnet/ Twelve-Strand Sinnet Knot/ three legs Four-
Strand Square Sinnet/ Four-Strand Diamond Knot tied in four
units of three strands each.
3693. A Six-Strand Round Sinnet becket, with a six-strand core/
lanvard, Twelve-Strand Full Matthew Walker over twelve-
j 1
strand core/ Twelve-Strand Round Sinnet over twelve-strand
core/ Six-Strand Diamond Knot, of double strands over twelve-
strand core/ Crown Sinnet, six units of two strands each/ seize the
twelve-strand core and with surface strands tie a 12 X 12 Matthew
Walker Knot. Lay up the ends into eight three-strand nettles .
3694. An eight-strand ditty bag lanyard . The eye is a series of
Four-Strand Walls over a four-strand core/ lanyard, Eight-
Strand Crown and Reverse, by pairs/ handle, Eight-Strand
Crown Sinnet over a wooden mold. Four-Lead Crown Knot
worked in units of two strands, similar Crown over the end, seized.
3695. Eight-strand clothesbag lanyard , becket ringbolt hitched
(# 3604 ), Matthew Walker/ lanyard, handle needle hitched over
wooden mold/ Eight-Strand Matthew Walker/ Eight-Strand
Square Sinnet, finished off with Sinnet Knot # 757 .
3696. Four-strand ditty bag lanyard . Eye laid up with two strands/
Four-Strand Lanyard Knot/ lanyard, four-strand handle of Crown
Sinnet over a wooden mold/ Lanyard Knot.
3697. A four-strand becket / Eight-Strand Full Matthew
Walker Knot/ lanyard handle, Eight-Strand Round Sinnet over
a wooden mold/ Double Eight-Strand Standing Turk’s-Head/
Eight-Strand Crown Sinnet/ Full Matthew Walker.
3698. Three-strand rope becket / Six-Strand Sinnet Knot
# 757 / lanyard of Six-Strand Round Sinnet, Six-Strand Double
Wall Knot/ handle of Crown Sinnet over a wooden mold/ Six-
Strand Round Sinnet/ Six-Strand Sinnet Knot # 757 .
3699. A becket of three strands. Six-Strand Matthew Walker/
lanyard of Six-Strand Crown Sinnet/ Six-Strand Matthew
Walker/ Six-Strand Round Sinnet/ Six-Strand Diamond.
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3700 . To join two ends of a Square Sinnet.
Seize the ends with Constrictor Knots (#1249), an d cut them off
square with a razor blade. Saturate the ends with Duco cement, bun
them, and cover the joint with a thin strip of leather and rivet with cop-
per tacks. Cover joint with a Turk’s-Head.
3701 . To make a window-shade pull:
Middle two cords each about four feet long and form an eye. Middle
and knot another ten-foot cord (#2489) around the base of the eye. With
the long cord make three inches of Left-Hand Bannister Bars #2494.
Make an equal section of Right Bannister Bars. Continue, reversing the
Half Knots every three inches. Add a tassel to the end.
3702 . A 'whistle or k?iife lanyard.
Middle a long cord and leave a loop four inches long. Tie Chinese
Knot #818 and at a distance of one and a half inches tie Knife Lanyard
Knot #787, then follow with five inches of Idiot’s Delight (#2896).
Repeat Lanyard #787 and Chinese Knot #818 spaced as before. Leave
three feet clear, and tie Knot #546 in each end. Lay the ends parallel in
contrary directions and add three Running Turk’s-Heads.
3703 . Whistle or knife lanyard. Middle four cords and make three
feet of Four-Strand Square Sinnet (#2999) in the center.
Fie a Double Diamond Knot (#694) and make four inches of
Eight-Strand Square Sinnet (#3001). Tie another Double Dia-
mond Knot. Lay out alternate ends. Make twelve inches of Idiot’s
Delight with two of the remaining ends and two inches only with the
other pair. Crotch the eight strands and tie Knot #1592. Add a
Running Turk’s-Head to the neck section.
3704 . Take four small lines each five feet long. With the center
of two, lay up six inches of two-strand rope for a becket. Place
the two ropes together and tie a Four-Strand Matthew Walker.
Lay up two inches of Four-Strand Square Sinnet, then middle the
other two lines and lay the bights across the top of the sinnet just made
and seize all eight lines together. All the ends being in the same direction,
tie an Eight-Strand Sinnet Knot (#757). Lay up six inches of Eight-
Strand Square Sinnet and tie a Full Matthew Walker. Divide the
strands and lay up twelve inches of Four-Strand Square Sinnet with
each set. Bring the ends together and tie a Full Matthew Walker. Now
work fourteen inches of Eight-Strand Round Sinnet and tie another
Matthew Walker. Divide the strands again and lay up two Four-Strand
Square Sinnets fourteen inches long, seize the ends at equal length, tie
a Matthew Walker in the end of each of the sinnets, add tassels.
Open the first double section of Four-Strand Round Sinnet and
spread the two legs slightly. Turn the Eight-Strand Square section
around to the left and place one leg of the last Four-Strand Square sec-
tion across a bight of the first section. Bring the second leg down to the
left of the other. Arrange the lanyard symmetrically as pictured and seize
strongly at B and C. Cover each seizing permanently wfith a Three-
Lead x Four-Bight x Three-Ply Turk’s-Head. At A, put a Running
Turk’s-Head, Seven-Lead X Three-Bight x Three-Ply.
3705 . A window-shade lanyard. Double two cords, leave a two-inch
loop and tie Diamond Knot #694. Make four inches of Four-Strand
Square Sinnet and tie #742, then make four inches more of Four-Strand
Square Sinnet and tie a Matthew Walker. Add one and a half inches
more of Four-Strand Square Sinnet and tie a Star Knot (#727). Follow
with one and a half inches of Four-Strand Square Sinnet and tie a
Matthew Walker Knot. Make four inches of Four-Strand Square
Sinnet and tie #742. Make four inches more of Four-Strand Square
Sinnet and seize, make a two-inch loop with two strands and crotch with
the other two strands. Make Shroud Knot #1593 and double it.
3706 . 3707 . These axe common knife lanyards. Both are started
at the bottom loop. Either a Round Knife Lanyard Knot (#787) or a
Chinese Knot (#8i8) is made and the ends are spliced together at the
side of the neckpiece with a Long Splice. A Running Turk’s-Head is
added, for a puckering knot.
DECORATIVE MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP (APPLIED KNOTS)
3708. A locket lanyard of two cords. The large Pectoral Knot
is #842. All the rest are Two-Strand Matthew Walker Knots,
except the upper left Button which is Two-Strand Manrope Knot
#980. The necklace starts at the upper right with an eye and is
completed with the Manrope Knot.
3709. The following three knife or whistle lanyards were made
by Edward M. Stetson.
The neckpiece of the first lanyard is a separate section of Eight-Strand
Square Sin net with the ends of Four-Strand Sinnet doubled back into
two long loops. The joints are seized and covered with Four-Lead X
Five-Bight x Three-Ply Turk’s-Heads. A similar loop is made for each
leg and is knotted into the first two with Carrick Loops before the leg is
made. Put similar Turk’s-Heads over the seizings and on one leg make a
Right Crown Sinnet of three strands around a core of five to the next
Turk’s-Head, which is Five-Bight X Three-Lead X Two-Ply. From
this point the sinnet is reversed to a Left Crown. The crowning for the
right leg is the reverse of the left leg. There is a Running Turk’s-Head
over this section, of larger cord. At the top of the Pectoral Knot a Five-
Bight X Four-Lead X Three-Ply Turk’s-Head covers a seizing. The
diamond-shaped Pectoral Knot consists of Bannister Bars over two-
strand cores and all joints are seized and covered with Four-Lead X Five-
Bight x Two-Ply Turk’s-Heads. The bottom loop is of Three-Strand
Sinnet, the Turk’s-Head that is seized to it is Four-Lead X Five-Bight
X Three-Ply and the pendant section above the loop is a Bannister Bar
with four strands for a core. The Running Turk’s-Head is a Four-Lead
X Five-Bight x Three-Ply Turk’s-Head of larger material than the
sinnet and the three vertically central Turk’s-Head of the Pectoral
Knots are Two-Ply Knots of the same heavier material. All others are
of the same material as the cord itself.
3710. The bottom loop of this lanyard is Three-Strand Sinnet,
the pendant is Six-Strand Round Sinnet, the legs are Five-Strand
French Sinnet and the neckband is Seven-Strand French Sinnet.
The Running Turk’s-Head is Seven-Lead X Five-Bight X Two-
Ply. And the Standing Turk’s-Head at the nape of the neck is the
same. The others are all Four-Lead X Five-Bight X Three-Ply
Turk’s-Heads. The leg and neckband joint is shown in detail.
3711. The third lanyard is of square knotting in two-inch sec-
tions. Two strands form the core for each leg. Beginning at the bot-
tom, the loop is Three-Strand Sinnet/ Turk’s-Head, Four-Lead X
Five-Bight X Two-Ply/ Solomon Bars/ four uncomplicated cords/
Solomon Bars/ Bannister Bars/ Solomon Bars/ four uncom-
plicated cords/ Solomon Bars/ two Turk’s-Heads as before. The
Running Turk’s-Head is Four-Lead X Five-Bight X Three-Ply.
Two uncomplicated cords pass around the neck.
3712. A knife or whistle lanyard . Middle two pieces of fishlinc.
Leave an eight-inch loop in one piece and seize the two together.
Tie a Four-Strand Double Diamond Knot (#695).
Lay out the two left ends and, at six inches, seize in another
middled section to the right ends. Tie a Double Diamond Knot
(#695). Make four inches of Square Sinnet and add Four rope
Knot #696. Shape a neckband for sixteen inches by winding spun
yarn around one of the strands and Crown Sinnet around this core
with the other three strands. Tie a Double Diamond and add four
inches of Square Sinnet. Crotch and seize-in the two long ends
from the first loop. Cut out two of the four strands from the neck
band and tie Shroud Knot #1593. Add a Running Turk’s-Head
for a gathering knot.
3713. The common marlingspike lanyard is of tarred hemp with
two Long Eye Splices in it.
c. 579
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3714. A “ life preserver” twenty-two inches long. Becket of Four-
Strand Square Sinnet, the lanyard Eight-Strand Square Sinnet,
Diamond Knot in end. A leather bag containing shot is needle
hitched and seized around the neck of a knot on the lanyard.
3715. A blackjack, ten and a half inches long, that started out to
be a chest becket . Evidently the sailor’s requirements changed as
his ship neared port. The knobs are Manrope Knots, the bolt, eye,
and lanyard are needle hitched. The lead ball is rib hitched.
3716. A blackjack consisting of a rib hitched lead ball, a tarred
codfish line lanyard, and a Double Knife Lanyard Knot.
3717. A wooden “ night stick ” ten and one half inches long, single
hitched , with a narrow Turk’s-Head.
3718. A razor-blade knife. The handle is of wood cross grafted
with ten leather thongs. The Turk’s-Heads are small tarred fishline,
the guard being Five-Lead X Four-Bight X Five-Ply.
3719. A cat with seven tails of Five-Strand Flat Sinnet tapered
and whipped (#3460). The knob is a Three-Lead X Four-Bight X
Two-Ply Turk’s-Head of Flat Sinnet tied over a Manrope Knot
(#847). The handle is Twelve-Lead, Four-Ply Coach whipping,
the guard, a Five-Lead X Four-Bight X Five-Ply Turk’s-Head.
3720. A whale ship's cat-o' -nine-tails with a fourteen-inch handle
of white whalebone. Five cords are middled and seized around a
button on the end of the handle. One tail is cut out.
3721. A thirty-two-inch blackjack. The becket is an Eye Splice,
the neck of which is hitched over. The loaded end is also hitched
over. Four Turk’s-Heads (Three-Lead X Four-Bight X Three-
Ply) are added and the rope is wormed.
3722. A spyglass , covered with Coachwhipping put on with a
needle and finished off with a Turk’s-Head of larger cord.
3723. A rawhide quirt of three thongs.
Slit two of them in the center to admit a bight for a wrist strap from
the center of the third thong. Taper an eighteen-inch piece of sash cord,
parcel with “electric tape” and cross graft it with six strands (#3563).
Seize in a loop of Three-Strand Flat Sinnet. Add two Seven-Lead X
Five-Bight x Single-Ply Turk’s-Heads.
3724. To make a loaded quirt, serve a piece of sash cord with a
strip of quarter-inch wide sheet lead.
Separate the turns of the lead by winding a piece of soft cord between
them. Seize both ends and serve over with butcher’s cord. Add a wrist
strap, and loop as #3723. Make an additional cover for the handle that is
several inches long, first arranging strands as in the center sketch. Leave
the ends long and seize them. Add three Seven-Lead x Five-Bight
Turk’s-Heads and fringe all ends.
3725. A quirt lash is tapered both ways from the middle. Attach
to the quirt with a Ring Hitch (#1493).
3726. A riding crop with a tapered black whalebone core. If un-
obtainable, rawhide, rattan or elm root will do.
Form a loop of 7/ 16-inch leather strap and stop it tightly to the small
end of the core. Take four long leather strips the size of shoestrings. Mid-
dle and form the wrist strap either of Four-Strand Square or French
Sinnet. Seize together and make an Eight-Strand Diamond Knot over
the big end of the core. Then cover the core with Eight-Strand Square
Sinnet, seize and cut off where it meets the end loop. Whip the joint.
3727. A dog’s leash of three thongs. Taper both ways from the
middle and lay up a wrist strap of Three-Strand Sinnet.
With six strands tie Sinnet Knot #757. Plat half the length into Six-
Strand Round Sinnet, then lay out two strands and complete with Four-
Strand Square Sinnet. Form a collar loop with one strand, seize all four
and tie a Diamond Knot (#693). Add Turk’s-Heads where shown.
DECORATIVE MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP (APPLIED KNOTS)
3728. A flat belt. Tie Knot #825, then a series of Lanyard Knots
(#818) and finish off with Button #656.
3729. A leash for a large dog of rawhide belt lacing.
Taper and skive four thongs, form a loop with the small end of the
longest strand, and seize all strands together. Lay up a Four-Strand
Square Sinnet. Surmount it with a large Button Knot. Cover the seizing
with a leather shoestring Turk’s-Head.
3730. A Carrick Bend belt. Make the eye first and finish with
Button #603. Reverse the knots alternately to avoid torsion.
3731. A twelve-strand leash of tarred fishline.
Sinnets and knots alternate. Loop is Six-Strand Round Sinnet/
Twelve-Strand Matthew Walker/ Six-Strand Spiral Crown Sinnet
with a six-strand core/ Nine-Lead x Four-Bight X Two-Ply Turk’s-
Head/ Eight-Strand Round Sinnet with a four-strand core/ Four-
Strand Double Diamond Knot/ Eight-Strand Square Sinnet/ Two-
Strand Standing Turk’s-Head/ Six-Strand Round Sinnet/ Two-
Strand Standing Turk’s-Head/ Four-Strand Square Sinnet/ a twisted
loop of two strands/ seize and tie Shroud Knot #1593.
3732. A lady's belt . Loop is Three-Strand Flat Sinnet/ Six-
Strand Diamond Knot/ Six-Strand Round Sinnet/ Six-Strand Foot-
rope Knot/ two parallel Three-Strand Flat Sinnets/ and any Six-
Strand Button.
3733. A lady's belt . A single length of Four-Strand Sinnet in two
colors with ends seized together. Add three Seven-Lead X Four-Bight
X Three-Ply Turk’s-Heads.
3734. A toggle and loop belt. Four-Strand French Sinnet
around the toggle/ seize and make two short sections of Four-Strand
Square Sinnet/ a section of Eight-Strand Square Sinnet/ a loop of
Four-Strand Square Sinnet/ add three Turk’s-Heads.
3735. A belt of Six-Strand Round Sinnet, made as #3733- Loops
are knotted together with a tasseled cord.
3736. A sword mat (#2964 ) or any Flat Sinnet may be made into
a belt by using two rings. Divide strands for the top ring and sew the
sinnet to the back at the bottom ring. Sew a thong to one ring and tie
with a Latigo Knot (#1528).
3737. A loop key guard of three thongs. Middle and make a sec-
tion of Six-Strand Round Sinnet. Slit the ends to take the keys.
3738. With an even number of loops, double the cords and seize
with a Constrictor Knot.
3739. A knob key guard. Double two pieces of fishline, tie a
Footrope Knot. Square Sinnet and tie any Four-Strand Button.
3740. When employing an odd number of strands or making a
guard for a considerable number of keys, knot one end of any cord
and seize the strands together below this knot.
3741. A knob key guard of Triangular Sinnet. Middle five
strands, tie a Button Knot. Cut one strand close to knot and make sinnet
(#3028). Tie a Sinnet Knot and put Eye Splices in ends.
3742. For an extra key, side splice to one of the strands.
3743. A two-strand guard for an ignition key. Make the loop and
tie a Matthew Walker Knot, finish off with $980.
3744. Instead of knotting strands as #3740, if a small knot is
needed tuck the ends through the strands as shown here and seize
tightly with a Constrictor, or else tie #560.
3745. A ring key gpiard. Middle three or more leather shoestrings
through a ring. Make a short length of French Sinnet and seize ends
evenly by pairs. Lay up ends alternately front and back, making
long loops of equal length for the keys. Tie a Diamond Knot and
draw all ends snug. Keep the knot flat.
[ 581 ]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3746. The common shoestring watch guard of Reverse Crown
Sinnet (#2917). Middle two long flat leather shoestrings and form
a three-inch loop with one bight. Then introduce the other bight,
stopping all four legs loosely together. Tie a Right Wall Knot
(#671) with all four strands, draw it up tightly and remove the
seizing. Tie a Left Crown and continue to alternate Right and
Left Crowns. When sufficient is made, finish off with a Manrope
Knot (#847) or any Four-Strand Button Knot.
3747. A watch guard of Helical Crown Sinnet, Crowns tied in
one direction (see #2932). To be tied with round cords. Arrange
the cords as before and tie a Double Footrope Knot (#697), re-
move the stopping and draw up snugly- Then crown successively to
the right. Finish off with any Four-Strand Button.
3748. A Triangular Sinnet watch guard of small linen cord.
The loop is of Five-Strand Flat Sinnet. Seize the legs together,
tie Lanyard Knot #737 (over four and under four). Cut off one
strand and make Nine-Strand Sinnet #3028. Seize and finish off
with any Button of nine or less strands, cutting out any superfluous
strands.
3749. A two-cord guard for an automobile key . It will neither
rattle nor mar the instrument board. Middle the cord and form the
loop, then tie Knots #777 and #808, in the order pictured, and
finish off with a Two-Strand Button (#601).
3750. A Star Knot watch guard of fairly heavy cord. Make a
loop of Three-Strand Sinnet and tie a Footrope Knot, follow with
a Six-Strand Round Sinnet, add a Six-Strand Diamond Knot over
the Round Sinnet, and finish with a Six-Strand Star Knot.
3751. A Double Loop key guard. Splice the ends of a short line
together and seize in two loops. Secure four extra strands and cover
the center part with Crown Sinnet and add two Footrope Knots.
3752. A flat watch guard. Seize in a loop, tie two or three Chinese
Knots and terminate with Knot #2459.
3753. A watch guard. Divide the cord a little off center and tie
Button #2460. Then tie Knot #792. Tuck one end back into the
knot parallel with the other, leaving enough material for a loop.
Withdraw the other end several tucks, replacing it with the end that
formed the loop. Draw all snug.
3754. Ship’s bell ropes, being much exposed to the weather, are
always painted. The becket is seized to the flight of the bell clapper.
Form the becket of Four-Strand Square Sinnet, add Eight-Strand
Diamond Knot #693. Follow with Eight-Strand Square Sinnet,
then an Eight-Strand Diamond Knot. Next an Eight-Strand
Round Sinnet, and Knot #792, of two strands only. A Six-Strand
Crown Signet and a Spritsail Sheet Knot (#887) completes the
bell rope.
3755. A five-sided bell rope. Middle four strands, make a becket
of Four-Strand Square Sinnet. Seize in eight strands to make Sin-
net #3080, cover the joint with a Turk’s-Head, finish off with any
Eight-Strand Button from Chapter 10.
3756. Middle four strands, make a becket of Four-Strand Round
Sinnet, seize, and ringbolt hitch the becket (#3605); make an Eight-
Strand Round Sinnet. At half length seize five large strands outside
At full length seize and cut off original eight strands. Taper with
spun yarn and either graft or coachwhip the full length. With the
five large strands, tie Star #885. Add a Turk’s-Head at the neck of
the becket and tie a Standing Turk’s-FIead with five ends above the
Star Knot.
DECORATIVE MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP (APPLIED KNOTS)
3757. A bell rope . Make a loop of Four-Strand Square Sinnet,
tie an Eight-Strand Matthew Walker Knot and follow with
Eight-Strand Square Sinnet, after which Sinnet Knot #761 fol-
lows. Add Crown Sinnet #2920 and finish off with a Double Mat-
thew Walker, covered with Knot #954.
“Outside” knot work is painted to save weathering. Before painting,
it should be sized with casein, glue or shellac. Manropes, bell ropes, life
lines, etc., are always treated in this way. Manropes reeve through
stanchions let in the rail, and provide a handhold for anyone coming
aboard. When ships were high-sided and visitors mounted through an
“entering port” they were called “entering ropes.” The Naval Repository
of 1762 gives the following: “The Entering Rope is suspended from the
Top of the Ladder by which you enter the ship; and for the most Part
covered with Scarlet Cloth curiously fringed and tasseled, the genteeler
to accommodate the Captain or any Visitor, it seldom being used at any
other Time.” For a short while before the term “manrope” was adopted,
they were called “sideropes.”
3758. Manropes are made of four-strand rope, canvas-covered. A
Narrow Turk’s-Head of small fishline covers each joint of the can-
vas. The joints are the width of a cloth apart. The knob is generally
a Two- or Three-Ply Manrope Knot tied with canvas-covered
strands and furnished with a pinked leather washer. Often the point
is finished off with an eye, by which it is lashed.
Admiral Luce recommends that manropes be “pointed over with
neat small line, the job is a tedious one, but worth the expense and
trouble.” Alston described them coachwhipped the full length.
3759. A manrope stanchion of white whalebone. The hole is
eleven sixteenths of an inch in diameter, indicating that it was made
for either linen or hemp rope.
3760. A coachwhipped yoke rope of fishline with a very attenu-
ated grafted point bearing a tassel. The knob is a Manrope Knot,
covered with Nine-Lead X Eight-Bight X Three-Ply Turk’s-
Head. The pointing in this case is pure swank, as it could not be used
practically on account of the tassel. The points in this case were not
rove; the knots were buttoned instead to two beckets in the yoke. A
square knotted yoke rope is described on page 404.
3761. A deck stopper is made of hawser-laid rope one half the size
of the cable and one fathom in length. The lanyard is twice as long
as the stopper itself and one third the diameter. In one end is a
Stopper Knot (#674), in the other end is a shackle or hook. The
ends are laid up three or four inches after the knot has been tied and
is strongly whipped and snaked.
3762. A manrope with a Matthew Walker Knot covered with
a red slashed leather cap (see #724). There is a Turk’s-Head around
the leather collar and the point is canvas-covered.
3763. A bronze manrope stanchion. Similar but shorter stanchions
are used at the knightheads to hold a net on which the headsails are
doused.
3764. A deck stopper for a large ship was sometimes of cable.
Often the three heart strands were cut out and a Spritsail Sheet
Knot tied with the remaining strands.
3765. 3766. Mess kid and mess table pendants are shown in a draw-
ing by Cruickshank (1815). The table is held with Multi-Strand
Stopper Knots, presumably Matthew Walkers. The tassels were
probably of brightly colored yams.
3767. A bell rope . A small rope is middled to form the eye and is
shaped with worming and spun yarn. The middle section is needle
hitched once, and the bulbous parts are covered with Turk’s-Heads.
1 583 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
I have read frequent references to knotted dravmvoork fringes made
by sailors on canvas sea chest covers. But all the drawnwork covers
that I have ever seen have had seized fringes. The only knotted chest
fringes that I have encountered were made of fishline that was sewed
through the hem of the cover. The “D.M.C. Library” has published
a booklet entitled Knotted Fringes containing twenty pages of illus-
tration. Drawnwork is exhaustively treated in various books on
needlework (see the Bibliography).
3768. A fish scale fringe may be tied in cord, using the Barrel
Knot (#1413) in rather coarse fishline. At the edge it is raveled and
then Overhand Knots added to form a short tassel. Tassels for this
series are found on pages 566, 567, and 568.
3769. A Barrel Knot fringe.
3770. A diamond-pattern fringe of half knotted cord with raveled
ends.
3771. The Marling Knot is tied with one end around the other;
always the same end is employed.
3772. A similar seized dravmwork fringe on a sea chest cover. This
is shown in one of the end paper photographs.
3773. The X seizing is of very heavy linen thread with an equal
number of horizontal and vertical turns. The ends are reef knotted
at the back. A sailor always waxes his sewing thread, even when he
mends his trousers.
3774. A Fourfold Overhand Knot fringe with turnip-shaped
meshes. Tie the vertical knots with the left diagonal cords and the
horizontal knots with the right diagonal cords, the knots being
identical.
3775. The arrow represents the cord around which the knot is
tied with the other end.
3776. A line tub (whale line) cover of light linen canvas. The
cross threads having been withdrawn from two sections of canvas,
the threads are grouped in half -inch sections four inches wide with
a two-inch section of undisturbed canvas left between them. This
is in the New Bedford Whaling Museum.
3777. The seizing is an X but with twice the number of horizontal
turns that there are vertical turns. To make: The first half-inch sec-
tion of warps is seized at the center to the fourth section. The cen-
ters of the even-numbered sections are brought to the left over all
while the centers of the odd-numbered sections are brought to the
right under all.
Line tub covers and chest covers are always painted over. The
former are subjected to the weather. The latter are subjected to much
[ 584 ^
DECORATIVE MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP (APPLIED KNOTS)
wear and are often wet from rain-soaked clothes. Sea chests are the
only seats that sailors have in the forecastle. Netting is also to be
found in Chapter 2 under “The Netmaker,” and in Chapter 18 ,
“Bends/’ where only the knots used are discussed.
3778. Very heavy rope is employed for cargo nets , flounder
dredging, and boarding nets. Ropes are seized together in pairs,
with round seizings, after which the pairs are assembled.
3779. Nowadays heavy nets are frequently made with metal clips,
and the floors of deep-sea dredges are usually of mail.
Boarding nets were formerly made of ratline stuff and, after being
well soaked in tar, were sanded and allowed to dry. A net so treated
cannot be cut with a sharp knife.
It is possible that nets covered in this manner with beach sand
would be of value in the fisheries. Beach sand, being round, will not
cut the hands or abrade the deck, but would protect the rope.
3780. A Clove Hitch for bending to a headrope.
3781. A Bale Sling or Strap Hitch is used for the same purpose.
3782. A decorative net may be made as follows: Stretch a head-
rope shoulder-high, middle a number of mesh ropes and make them
fast to the headrope at regular intervals with either a Clove Hitch,
which is the usual procedure, or with a Bale or Strap Hitch,
which is perhaps more decorative. Adjacent strands are knotted to-
gether. A spool may be employed to keep the meshes of equal length
and the same pair are not tied together twice in succession.
. 3783. The Carrick Bend lends itself effectively to decorative
netting.
3784. A decorative netting that makes a handsome fringe. Any
Two-Strand Lanyard Knot having a proper lead may be used for
^uch a purpose.
3785. Cargo nets are ordinarily made of four-strand rope. One set
of ropes is rove through the center strands of the other ropes at
regular intervals, and seized in. Sometimes they are rove as Knot
#2856 and not seized. Braiding nets may be made in the same way.
All ends are spliced (# 2855 ) into a much heavier headrope, or else
are eye spliced around it. The net is fitted with clews for hoisting.
More frequently cargo nets are square.
3786 . The Granny Mesh Knot has several points in its favor. It is
more compact and more regular, and has a better lead than the com-
mon Mesh Knot. Although it tends to slip, it cannot spill. The or-
dinary Mesh Knot (#402 and $403) tends to capsize but ordinarily
does not slip.
3778
3700
3779
378 1
3*7 8.5
[585]
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3787 . A crab or dip net is cylindrical in form. With a netting
needle (#3790) make a series of evenly spaced Clove Hitches
(#3799) around a hoop, leaving a long end and using a spool
(#3788). When the circuit is completed, tie the working and stand-
ing ends together as #3789. The methods of tying the Mesh Knot
(#3791) have already been described as #402 and #403. Holding
the spool in the left hand, add a second row of meshes. When a
sufficient number of rows is completed the bottom row of meshes
may be clove hitched to a small ring or else a heavy cord is rove
through the meshes and tied. This net may be more quickly made
if the meshes helix continuously in one direction instead of being
arranged in tiers.
3788 . The net is tapered by tying every second, third or fourth
knot through two adjoining meshes instead of merely one, as #3798.
3789 . The Overhand Bend (#1410) is the most practical knot
for closing the final mesh in a cylindrical net.
3790 . The netting or seine needle.
3791. The Mesh Knot.
3792. A round flat net is called a shot , treasure or cabbage net .
Make a ring or grommet equal in size to twice the round of your
spool plus an added length for “take-up.” Leave a long end, and put
a series of six equally spaced knots around the ring and tie the long
end that was left and the working end together with an Overhand
Bend (#1410) to form the last mesh (#3789). The second row of
meshes is knotted twice to each of the first row of six meshes, mak-
ing twelve meshes in all. The third row of meshes is knotted twice to
every second mesh. At this point it will be apparent that there are
six radiating rows of rectangular meshes. Each time one of these six
is worked, two knots are tied, so that six are added in each circuit.
The other meshes are knotted but once. When the net is complete
the edge is roped by putting Clove Hitches in the last row of
meshes, or else the boltrope is marline hitched to the last row.
3793. Double Mesh Knot.
3794. The Lacing Knot attaches the foot of a tennis net to the
boltrope.
3795. A lawn tennis net is made in such manner that the sides of
the meshes are parallel with the sides of the net. Horizontal and ver-
tical lines are much less distracting to the eyes of a tennis player
than the diagonal meshes of the early nets. The spool used is three
and one half inches in girth.
Make a ring that is three inches in diameter. Bend the end of your
mesh line to this ring and make two meshes. Next turn the structure
over and make two knots, the first a regular Mesh Knot, the second
a Double Mesh Knot (#3793), which makes three for that row.
Continue to net rows in the ordinary manner, except that the final
knot of each row is a Double Mesh Knot until twenty-two meshes
are in one row. This being reached, on finishing the next row stick
your needle up through the two final meshes ana knot, as in the final
diagram of #3798. At the end of the next row make a Double Mesh
Knot and thereafter at the ends of rows alternate the two knots.
When there are two hundred and ninety meshes along the head of
the net, tie no more Double Mesh Knots but knot to two meshes at
the end of each row. The cord should be black (tarred or dyed)
thirty-six-thread cotton. Sew a five-inch-wide white canvas tape,
doubled along the head of the finished net and reeve through it a
small galvanized wire rope with an Eye Splice in each end. A piece
of tarred ratline stuff should be seized along the bottom of the net as
DECORATIVE MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP (APPLIED KNOTS)
illustrated. If a net is exposed to excessive wear it may be reinforced
along the upper half of the center section. This is worked with a
needle on which two parallel cords are wound. The lower section is
worked with another needle, carrying a single cord only. The sec-
tions are worked separately and, whenever they meet each other, all
three threads are joined with a compound Overhand Bend (#3789),
and each needle is then reversed and a new row of meshes is started
in each direction. After ninety-six single meshes are made along the
head of the net, one hundred double meshes should follow and then
a final ninety-six single meshes. There should be only eleven horizon-
tal rows of double meshes at the top of the mid-section of the net.
3796. The ordinary way of tying the Mesh Knot (see also # 3801 ).
3797. To add the tape: The tape is held taut by means of a cord
attached to the eyelet.
3798. Narrowing the mesh.
3799-3812. This tennis-ball bag was designed and made for my
cousin Hope Knowles. Use a spool two and three quarters inches in
girth. A galvanized iron mast hoop or lobster pot ring about seven
inches in diameter is called for and a 1 %-inch galvanized iron eyelet
hole ring.
Parcel the seven-inch ring with one-inch adhesive surgical tape and
cover #3810 with Ringbolt Hitching #3613. Use small hard white
fishline. Reef knot the ends of the Ringbolt Hitching together.
Take a fifty-foot piece of small soft cotton fishline and wind it
at both ends onto two netting needles. Clove hitch (#3799) six-
teen meshes around the small ring. If the ring is not completely cov-
ered substitute enough Rolling Hitches (#3800) to fill. Hang the
ring by a toggled cord (#3802) and proceed to make cylindrical net
#3787. Make nine rows of meshes (#3801), completing each tier
with Overhand Bend #3803. When complete, bend the two ends
together with Harness Bend #3804, well up on the side of the mesh.
Take eight feet of cotton cord about twice the diameter of the
netting material, and arrange it on the large ring, as in #3806, reev-
ing the cord through the meshes of the net as pictured in #3809, and
tying the ends together with a Reef Knot placed as #3805. Seize
the strands below the ring with a Constrictor #3808. Have all the
loops of even length. Take several feet of the netting material, leav-
ing the ends long, and tie Knot #3807, which holds the material in
place. Draw very tight, making certain that the ends of the Ringbolt
Hitching are covered. With the ends of the cord serve the knob
uver tightly and evenly. Then cover with Turk’s-Head #3811,
which was designed for this bag and is given in detail as #1393. Make
the knot three- or four-ply in order to completely cover all under-
neath material. Add a Running Turk’s-Head (#3812) of very hard
cord (log or fishline) around the lanyards for a puckering knot: (see
#1303-1323 for methods of tying).
Columbus’ diary states that he found the inhabitants of the
Bahama Islands slept in “nets of cotton” suspended at either end,
“which they called hamacs.” The name has been adopted the world
over. Although Columbus remarked upon this as something new and
strange in furniture, Alcibiades is credited with the invention of the
swinging canvas bed, which is still used in the Navy. It was not until
the days of the Greenland whale fishery that bunks were first intro-
duced for sailors, and only then because it was found impossible for
a sailor to keep warm in a hammock in Northern latitudes. I do not
know when “Cape Ann” hammocks were first made, but they are
[ 587 J
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
by no means a recent invention, for 1 have an old one made of linen
homespun canvas.
3813. The simplest hammock clew is made by holding an iron
ring in a vise and driving a nail in the bench about two feet away. A
number of turns are taken through the ring and around the nail.
When sufficient in number, the upper part is served tightly over,
close up to the ring. Netted hammocks are generally reinforced
with ropes along the edges. A small rope twice the length of the
hammock is middled through the ring and the turns in the light ma-
terial are taken in such way as to cover it. The splice is taken at the
other end, where it is served over in making the other clew. Suffi-
cient netting is made between the two clews to suit the length of the
boltrope.
3814. A Pullman hammock clew is made so that the length of the
hammock has three adjustments. Each end has two loops, one being
made of the side rope, the other of the mesh material. The overall
length is about five feet ten inches. Every berth on a small boat
should be provided with a hammock of this sort to hold clothes.
3815. A seized clew is made around two nails. The center section
is grafted or served over, and a thimble is seized in with a round
seizing.
3816. Navy clews are made of either six or twelve lengths of
nettle stuff; twelve was the older practice. These are middled and
the eve is either grafted, ringbolt hitched, or served over. They
are then seized together either with or without a thimble. A sword
mat is started and, after all twelve ends are worked once or twice,
two ends, one at each side, are laid out each time the warps are
passed, in the manner described for “shouldering” (#3493). Some
old seamanship books say that the last pair should be half knotted.
But the best practice is to seize them.
3817. An old boat gripe that I have examined was made as follows:
Twelve strands were middled, and the center section ringbolt
hitched . The strands were brought together, seized and then laid up
into a six-foot length of sword matting. At the bottom end the
strands were made into an Artificial Eye, which was ringbolt
hitched as far as possible and then buttonholed across the matted
part.
3818. A Spanish hammock clew is made with six lengths of ma-
terial middled. The twelve strands that are formed are served from
the ring down and every four turns two opposite strands are laid out.
The end of the service is finished off around the two last strands.
3819. A sword mat ring clew is made as pictured with six lengths
of material in a way similar to #3816. The ring is hitched over (see
pages 569, 570).
3820. The sailor’s hammock is of heavy canvas six feet long and
three feet wide with a selvage at both edges. At the head and foot
is a tabling with twelve eyelet holes to which the nettles are made
fast as pictured. Every hammock clew has a lanyard for slinging
spliced in.
[588]
DECORATIVE MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP (APPLIED KNOTS)
In stowing such a hammock, seven Marline Hitches were for-
merly recommended. Nowadays five Single Hitches are deemed
sufficient.
3821 . A knitted hammock. Using hammock clew #3813 with
fifteen loops as a base, and two broomstick handles for needles, Caleb
Stabler used to knit a complete hammock of lobster cord in one
evening. Two stitches were taken in each clew loop.
3822 . A netted hammock. Make clew #3813 or #3815 with twelve
loops two feet long and one doubled rope with two twelve-foot legs.
Using a spool five inches in girth, the first row of meshes should be
Knot #3793. This will give a row of twenty-four meshes. Now add
a 6/2 -foot length of ordinary mesh. Reeve the side ropes through
the outer meshes along each side. Splice the two ends of the side rope
together at the proper length and make a second clew exactly like
the first one. The splice should be hidden inside the clew.
Netted hammocks are sometimes made with several different
lengths of stitches, and frequently the number of meshes in a row is
diminished toward the ends. Frequently double threads are used to
strengthen the mid-section (see #3795).
3823 . I haven’t seen a barrel-stave hammock for years, but when
I was a youngster I made one. Secure a clean flour or sugar barrel,
take it apart and bore two %-inch holes in the end of each stave
just inside the chines and one half or three quarters of an inch from
the sides. Take two lengths of sash cord each about twenty-two feet
long.
Middle one of the ropes and reeve one of the ends, first down and
then up, through the holes in one end of each stave to the other end
of the hammock. Do the same with the other end of the same rope
through the holes at the other ends of the staves in the same direc-
tion. From the other direction repeat the performance with the
other rope, the order for each stave being up and then down, and the
up tuck should be taken to the left of the first rope and the down
tuck should be to the right of it. After the staves are all evenly
spaced and about a half inch apart, the total stave length should be
six to six and one half feet and the whole hammock, including clews,
about twelve feet. Each clew is made up of one loop and two rope
ends. The rope ends pass around the thimble in opposite directions
and the clew is tightly seized in close up to the thimble as #3815 and
then is served over.
3824 . There are at least two peculiar Hammock Hitches by
which clews are secured to “Cape Ann” hammocks. These are given
as #1832 and % 1833.
3825 . When timber on a strange shore failed to grow at the
water’s edge, hammocks were slung by “wooding and watering par-
ties” from oars that were lashed together. With miasma, serpents
and cannibals to contend with, a sailor couldn’t be too careful.
[ 589 1
».♦ •
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3826. The boatswain's chair is a very important article of ship’s
furniture, and ashore house painters , flagpole climbers and steeple-
jacks cannot get along without it. This is the simplest form made,
with slotted ends in the seat and a bowline knot in the rope.
3827. A more finished and safer chair is made with holes in the
seat. The seat strap is fastened in the holes with two Matthew
Walker Knots, and there is a becket seized in at the top, to which
the pendant is bent.
3828. A more stable boatswain's chair is suspended at four corners
and has a double becket seized in. The two knots are Matthew
Walkers.
3829. The most approved strap for a boats* coin's chair is the one
illustrated here. The ends are short spliced on the bottom, and the
bights are seized together where they cross. The seized-in double-
eyed becket has two sets of crossing turns, and altogether the chair
is as safe as can be.
3830. An elaborate boatswain's chair that is so rigged in order to
be bent to a becket on a tackle block. After it is bent to the tackle
the end of the strap is adjusted to its own Thimble Eye and secured
with a Becket Hitch. An interesting feature of this is the Dog’s
Point on the end of the strap, which makes the Becket Hitch
doubly secure.
3831. A method of shortening svnng ropes ashore by seizing in a
round turn under the seat. The seizing should have crossing turns .
3832. The more common method is to tie an Overhand Knot in
the bight; this is very difficult to untie, and a Double Figure-Eight
Knot is better. These loops are much favored when the swinger has
a ground crew to assist. It offers an excellent handhold.
3833. I have seen an adjustable swing made as illustrated. The rope
ends, after passing through Thimble Eyes on the seat straps, were
first rove through the strands of the standing part of the ropes and
then made fast with Rolling Hitches, presumably beyond the
reach of the younger children. The ends of the Rolling Hitches
were seized (not shown).
3834. A knotted bathing ladder for a small boat. The knot is given
by Bocher. It is very comfortable for bare feet and it has the advan-
tage that it may be stowed anywhere and will not mark or bruise
other stowed articles. Take a piece of z 14 -inch (circumference) rope
and middle it. Leave a loop at the center and seize in an eye. At a
distance of one foot from the eye tie the series of knots that are pic-
tured. Splice the ends together or else leave them long and put a
Matthew Walker Knot in each end. A somewhat similar knot, that
is perhaps more difficult to tie, is given as #8oo.
3835. This chock ladder , also for barefoot use, is given by Paul N.
Hasluck. It would seem that there might be a tendency to spin, in
which case, if used as a bathing ladder, toes might be pinched. But
hanging free over the stem of a boat or from the branch of a tree,
it would do nicely. The chocks are turned, about five inches in
diameter with lengthwise holes about seven eighths of an inch in
diameter. The ropes should be a little smaller than the holes; if of
the same size, they may swell and split the chocks. Put a Thimble
[ 590 ]
DECORATIVE MARLINGSPIKE SEAMANSHIP (APPLIED KNOTS)
Eye in the end of a four-strand rope. Mark the rope with light stops
at fifteen-inch intervals. Reeve all chocks and stop them near the
bottom of the rope. Hang the rope upside down at a good w orking
height and at the first stopping put in a Standing Tukk s-Hk \i>
(#1283) of heavy marline, Tour-Bight x Three-Lead x Three-
Ply. Put the first chock in place and add a similar knot close to the
other end of the chock. Continue until all chocks are in place, then
leave a two-foot end and tie a Matthew Walker Knot (#68z).
3836. A Jacob's ladder has round rungs that arc generally of oak
or ash but sometimes of iron. A pilot’s ladder (#3841 ) has flat treads
and generally side pieces as well. Except for this distinction, ladders
are classified according to their material, position or use: as side,
rope, accommodation, companion, stern, hatchway, etc.
The sides of Jacob's ladders arc made preferably of four-strand
rope, and, if of Manila, these arc about two and one quarter inches
mi circumference. Middle a rope and seize in a Thimble Eye. The
strands are opened enough to receive the rungs, which are seized in
at approximately sixteen-inch intervals. Finally the lower ends of
the rope are spliced together. According to Steel’s text and illustra-
tions, a light line called a “concluding line” is added as shown, pre-
sumably for gathering up the ladder. There is another interpretation
of the “concluding line,” given here as # 3844 .
3837. Sometimes Jacob's ladders are fitted with a pair of bcckcts
instead of a single one; this is to prevent spinning.
3838. A rung notched on one side only and made fast with an X
seizing.
3839. A large flattened rung with a hole bored in each end is
occasionally seen and is very comfortable indeed for bare feet.
/
Sailors of many nations go barefoot except when in cold waters. This
rung is generally seized in, but it may have a Standing Turk’s-Head
above and below.
3840. The most usual way of fitting is the one given here. The
rung is turned in a lathe with knobs in each end. The knob is entered
between the strands of the rope and either sized in or else secured
above and below with Standing Turk’s-Heads.
3841. A pilot ladder consists of a series of sections, each composed
of two “punkin-sced cheeks” morticed to a flat tread. Sometimes
two parallel rungs, close together, were used instead of a single flat
tread. The edges of the cheeks are deeply grooved to receive the
ropes. The side ropes are doubled and a Thimble Eye is seized in the
center of each; a second seizing is put in a short distance below the
first, and then a cheek is seized in. Between two cheeks on a side is
a doubled section of rope several inches in length. Without these
the ladder will not fold up into convenient form for stowing.
3842. Another type of pilot ladder is made with longer, narrower
cheeks and narrower treads.
3843. Between two of these cheeks, one of each pair of ropes is
rove between the strands of its companion rope and, after being
pulled up snug around a cheekpiece, the two are given a long seizing.
Seizing #3433 is then put into each end of the cheeks.
1 59 1 1
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF KNOTS
3844. “ Concluding lines ” to hold rungs in place. According to
Admiral Paris, these were rove through holes in the middle of the
ends of rungs. The rungs were seized in or else Standing Turk’s-
Heads were placed above and below them on the side ropes.
3845. A large State-of-Maine schooner carried this ladder, which
was neither pilot nor Jacob’s ladder. It had lanyards at the top which
were long enough to lash either to eyebolts or to belaying pins
inside the rail. The steps had cleats at either end which were sup-
ported by Standing Turk’s-Heads.
3846. The common grooved rung was turned in a lathe.
3847. “The most general way of making these ladders,” according
to Brady (1841), was with two small ropes at each side which were
seized together above and below the slots in the rungs.
3848. Instead of a round rung, a flat one with two holes in each
end was also used, which was easier for the feet.
3849. The remainder of the ladders shown are simple makeshift
ones for shore use. The first and simplest is from Lowney Brothers’
Circus and led to the flying trapeze. It consisted of two ropes tied in
a series of Marline Hitches around sections of broom handle which
had been slightly scored with a rasp to receive them. The tendency
of the rung to roll was frustrated by having the knots in one rope
on the front of the rung, and the knots of the other rope on the
reverse side.
3850. A Half Hitch is as simple to make and, used for this pur-
pose, is more secure than the Marline Hitch. The hitches in one
rope should oppose those on the other end of the rung.
3851. If the last knot is given one additional tuck, as indicated by
the single arrow in the diagram, Crossing Knot #1192 is formed
and the pull on the knot will be at opposite sides of the rung.
3852. The common way of notching a rung, when two ropes are
used at one end, is #3841. Shallow notches may be made with a rasp.
Single ropes may be secured to this rung, as #3840 and #3844.
3853. A secure ladder can be very quickly made by tying the
Constrictor Knot. The knots at one end of the rung should be on
the side opposite the knots of the other end.
3854. Crossing Knot #1191 makes an excellent temporary Ladder
Knot, as the pull is at the top and bottom of the rung. For this rea-
son, the two sets of knots do not have to be tied reversely. Moreover,
it is simpler to tie than #3850.
The subject of knots is still very much alive; for there is more
rope in use today than ever before, more even than in the days of
the clipper ship, and a rope cannot be put to work without the tying
of a knot.
There are still old knots that are unrecorded, and so long as there
are new purposes for rope, there will always be new knots to
discover.
So it is possible that someday I may find something further to say
on knots, although it seems to me at present that eleven years is long
enough service to have given to one cause.
But now, in the words of Captain John Smith, “Sometimes Gov-
ernour of Virginia, and Admirall of New England,” we will “Make
an End of this Discourse with a Knot.”
[ 592 ]
A LIST OF BOOKS, BELONGING TO THE AUTHOR,
WHICH CONTAIN MATERIAL ON KNOTS
Part I
MARINE DICTIONARIES, ENCYCLOPEDIAS, AND VOCABULARIES
( Arranged Chronologically)
Manwayring, Sir Henry. The Sea-mans Diction-
ary or, an Exposition and Demonstration of
all the Parts and Things belonging to a
Shippe. Published posthumously. London:
1644. Privately circulated in MS. form for
twenty years previous to publication.
Smith, Captaine John, Sometimes Governour of
Virginia and Admirall of New England. An
Accidence for Young Sea-men or the Path-
way to Experience . London: 1626 (Reprint,
Edinburgh: 1910).
. A Sea Grammar . London: 1627 (Reprint,
Glasgow: 1907).
Butler, Captaine Nathaniel. Boteler's Dialogues .
Written about 1634, published 1688. (Navy
Records Society reprint, London: 1929.)
Guillet, Saint Georges. The Gentleman's Dic-
tionary (Part III, “The Art of Navigation”).
Paris: 1678. (First English translation, Lon-
don: 1705.)
Aubin. Dictionnaire de Marine . Amsterdam: 1702.
Ward, Edward (“Ned”). The Wooden World.
1707. (The Society for Nautical Research
reprint, London: 1929.)
Anonymous: A Military Dictionary and a Sea
Dictionary by officers who serv'd several
years at Sea and Land. London: 1708.
Blanckley, Thomas Riley. A Naval Expositor .
London: 1750.
An Officer of the Navy. The Naval Repository.
London: 1762.
Falconer, William. An Universal Dictionary of
the Marine. London: 1769, 1771, 1780, and
1789.
Montaine, William. Seaman's Vade Me cum.
London: 1782.
Lescallier, M. Vocabulaire des Termes de Ma-
rine. London: 1783. (Eng.-Fr.)
Du Clairbois, Vial, and Blondeau, M. Encyclo-
pedic Methodique Marine . Vols. I-IV. Paris:
1783.
Liddel, R. Seaman's New Vede Me cum. London:
1 794-
Anonymous. (J. Debrett, publisher.) A Vocabu-
lary of Sea Phrases by a Captain of the British
Navy. London: 1799.
Moore, J. J. British Mariner's Vocabulary or Uni-
versal Dictionary of Technical Terms and
Sea Phrases. London: 1801.
Norie, J. W. Mariner's New and Complete Naval
Dictionary. London: 1804.
Duane, William. The Mariner's Dictionary or
American Seaman's V ocabulary. Washington
City: 1805. (Appears to be a literal copy of
Moore, 1801.)
Romme, Charles. Dictionnaire de la Marine Fran -
caise. Paris: 1813.
Willaumez, Vice-Admiral. Dictionnaire de Ma-
rine. Paris: 1820.
Burney, William, LL.D. New and Universal
Dictionary of the Marine. London: 1830.
(Revised edition of Falconer’s Dictionary.)
Dana, R. H., Jr. Seaman's Friend. Boston, New
York: 1841.
. Seaman's Manual (same as above). London:
1841, 1844, 1846, etc.
D’Amorinn, Joao Pedro. Diccionario de Ma~
rinha. Lisboa: 1841.
Young, Arthur. Nautical Dictionary. Dundee:
i8 47*
Jal, A. Glossaire Nautique. Paris: 1848.
Greenwood, James, Esq. Sailor's Sea Book. Lon-
don: 1850.
Lees, James. Dana’s Seaman's Friend. Revised and
enlarged. London: 1867.
Smyth, Admiral W. H. The Sailor's Word Book.
London: 1867.
Chapman, Captain Charles. A Dictionary of
Modern Sea Terms. London: 1869.
Paris, Vice-Admiral Francois Edmond. Diction-
ary of the Marine. Six volumes folio. Paris:
1877.
Russell, W. Clark. Sailor's Language. London:
1883.
Hamersly, Lewis R., and Associates. Naval En-
cyclopaedia. Philadelphia: 1884.
Paasch, Captain H. From Keel to Truck. (Poly-
glot Dictionary.) Antwerp: 1894.
Patterson, Captain Howard. Illustrated Nautical
Encyclopedia. Cleveland: 1901.
Ansted, A. A Dictionary of Sea Terms. Glasgow:
1 9 I 7*
De Salis, Henry Rodolph. A Glossary of Canal
Terms. London: 1918.
Bradford, Gershom. A Glossary of Sea Terms.
New York: 1927.
Esparteiro, Antonio Marques. Dicionario de
Marinharia. Lisboa: 1936.
C 593 1
A LIST OF BOOKS WHICH CONTAIN MATERIAL ON KNOTS
Part II
SEAMANSHIP, SAILMAKING, RIGGING, ETC.
( A rranged A Iphabe tic ally )
Admiralty, The. Manual of Seamanship for Boys'
Training Ships. Vols. I— II. London: 1932.
Alston, Lieutenant A. H. (R.N.). Seamanship
and Naval Duties. London: i860; Alston,
Captain A. H., Seaimnship and Naval Duties.
Portsmouth: 1871.
Anderson, R. C. Rigging of Ships in the Days of
the Spritsail Topsail. Salem: 1927.
, editor. Treatise on Rigging. Circa 1625.
(Publication of the Society for Nautical Re-
search.) London: 1921.
Anonymous. The Mate and his Duties. Liverpool:
1875.
. Manual of Seamanship. London: 1891.
Bandeiro de Sousa, Joao. Tratado de Apparelho
do Navio . Lisboa: 1896.
Bathurst, Hon., and Rev. Charles, LL.D. Notes
on Nets. London: N. D.
Biddlecombe, George. Art of Rigging. London:
1848.
Bloomgren, Axel S. Ldrobok I. Sjomanskap.
Stockholm: 1923.
Blunt, George W. Sheet Anchor , by Darcy
Lever, with additions by G. W. Blunt. New
York: 1858.
Boyd, John McNeill. Manual for Naval Cadets.
London: 1857.
Brady, William N. (Boatswain, U.S.N.). The
Naval Apprentice's Kedge Anchor . New
York: 1841.
. (Sailing Master, U.S.N.). Kedge Anchor .
Eighth edition, New York: 1855; Eighteenth
edition, 1893.
Burney, Commander Charles. Young Seaman's
Manual and Rigger's Guide. London: 1878.
Bushell. The Rigger's Guide. London: 1854;
Portsmouth: 1893.
Challamel, Augustin, editor. Manuel dn Ma-
noeuvrier. Vols. I— II. Paris: 1891.
Clarke, Francis G. The Seaman's Manual. Port-
land, Maine: 1830.
. American Ship Master's Guide. Boston:
i 8 45 -
Clowes, G. S. Laird, editor. Length of Mast and
Yards in 1640. London: 1931.
Dana, R. H., Jr. Seaman's Friend. Boston and
New York: 1841; Boston: 1857.
. Seaman s Manual. London: 1841, 1844, 1846,
1867. (Revised by James Lees.)
De Parfouru, R. Manuel du Marin. Paris: 1921.
Dick, Admiral. Leitfaden der Seemdnnschaft.
Berlin: 1927.
Gower, Richard Hall. Treatise on Seamanship.
London: 1808.
Harris, Commander R. H. Alston’s Secmianship
revised. Portsmouth: 1871
Heathcote, Captain Sir Henry (R.N.). Treatise
on Staysails. London: 1824.
Kenealy, Captain A. J. Boat Sailing. New York:
1901.
Kipping, Robert. Elements of Sailmaking. Lon-
don: 1847.
. Masting , Mast-making and Rigging. Lon-
don: 1877.
. Sails and Sail??taking. London: 1880.
Knight, Lieutenant Commander Austin M.
Modern Seamanship. New York: 1901.
Lavieuville, Odin and Douxami. Manuel des
Ecoles de Pec he Maritime. Paris: 1902.
Lever, Darcy. Sheet Anchor. London: 7808.
. Sheet Anchor , with additions by George
W. Blunt. New York: 1858.
Luce, S. B. Seamanship for Use of U. S. Naval
Academy. Newport, R. I.: 1862.
, Lieutenant Commander. Seamanship. New
York: 1873.
, Admiral. Seamanship , revised by Lieutenant
Aaron Ward. New York: 1884.
Middendorf, F. L. Bemastung und Tackelung der
Schiffe. Berlin: 1903.
Moffat, James B. Seamanship and Rigging. Lon-
don: 1861.
Murphy and Jeffers. Nautical Routine and Stow-
age. New York: 1849.
Nares, Lieutenant George S. Naval Cadet's
Guide or Seaman's Companion. London:
1 860.
, Captain Sir George S. Seamanship. Ports-
mouth: 1877, 1882.
, Vice-Admiral Sir George S. Seamanship .
Portsmouth: 1897.
Olsen, O. T. Fisherman's Seamanship . Grimsby:
1885.
Qualtrough, Lieutenant E. F. (U.S.N.). The
Boat Sailor's Manual. New York: 1886.
Riesenberg, Felix. Seamanship for the Merchant
Service. New York: 1922.
Roding, Johann. Allgemeines Worterbuch der
Marine. Vols. I— III. Hamburg: 1795.
Steel, David. Elements and Practice of Rigging
and Seamanship. Vols. I, II. London: 1794.
. Art of Sailmaking . London: 1796.
Sutherland, William. Shipbuilder's Assistant
and Marine Architecture. (Chapter 5, “The
Boatswain’s Art.”) London: 1755.
Taunt, Lieutenant Emery H. Young Sailor's
Assistant in Practical Seamanship. Washing-
ton: 1883.
Todd and Whall. Practical Seamanship for the
Merchant Marine. London: 1896.
[ 594 ]
A LIST OF BOOKS WHICH CONTAIN MATERIAL ON KNOT')
Walker, T. P. Alstons Seamanship , revised.
Portsmouth: 1902.
Ward, Lieutenant Aaron. Luce’s Seamanship ,
revised. New York: 1884.
Wilcocks, J. C. The Sea Fisherman. London
1868.
Wilson-Barker, D. Manual of Elementary Sea
manship. London: 1897.
Part III
KNOT MONOGRAPHS
Aldridge, A. F. Knots . New York: 1918.
Belash, Constantine A. Braiding and Knotting
for Amateurs. Boston: 1936.
Berger, A. A. Rope arid Its Uses. Iowa State Col-
lege: 1927.
Biddle, Tyrrel. How to Make Knots, Bends and
Splices. London: N. D.
Bocher, Emmanuel. Corctes, tresses , noeuds. ( Vol.
Ill, “Needlework”.) Paris: 1914.
Boitard, M. Nouveau Manuel du Cordier. Paris:
1839.
Bowling, Tom (pseudonym), Paul Rapsey
Hodge or Frederick Chamier. The Book of
Knots. Edinburgh: 1866; London: 1870, 1876,
1882, 1890.
Brainard, F. R. Knots, Splices, Hitches , Bends and
Lashings. New York: 1893.
Burgess, J. Tom. Knots, Ties and Splices. Lon-
don: N. D.; Glasgow: N. D.
Byers, Chester. Roping. New York: 1928.
Coe, Charles H. Juggling a Rope. Pendleton,
Oregon: 1927.
Columbian Rope Co. Rope Knowledge for
Scouts . Auburn: N. D.
Comet, N. R. Sjomansknopen. Malmo: 1908.
Day, Cyrus Lawrence. Sailor's Knots. New
York: 1935.
De Dillmont, Therese. Knotted Fringes. Mul-
house: N. D.
. Macrame. Mulhouse: N. D.
Dorn, J. C., publisher. Useful Hitches and Splices
(pamphlet). Chicago: N. D.
Drew, James M. Ropework, Knots, Hitches ,
Splices y Halters. St. Paul: 1936.
. Some Knots and Splices, Farmer’s Library.
St. Paul: 1912.
Eliason, Eldridge. Practical Bandaging . Philadel-
phia: 1930.
Fehre, Hans. Seem'dnnische Handarbeiten. Flam-
burg: 1925.
Flather, J. J. Rope Driving . New York: 1895.
Frear, J. B. Rope and Its Use on the Farm. Uni-
versity of Minnesota. St. Paul: 1915.
Gibson, J. Boy Scout Knot Book. Glasgow: 1928.
■ . Girl Scout Knot Book (same as above).
Glasgow: 1928.
Gilbert, Alfred C. Knots and Splices with Rope-
Tying Tricks. New Haven: 1920.
“Gilcraft” (pseudonym). Knotting. London:
I 93 I *
Graumont and Hensel. Encyclopedia of Knots.
New York: 1939.
Hasluck, Paul N. Knotting and Splicing. Lon-
don: 1918-21.
Herwig, Philip C. Square Knot Book. Brook-
lyn: 1926.
Houdini, Harry. Magical Rope Ties a?id Escapes.
London: N. D.
Hunt, C. W., Co. Knots , Hitches and Bends
(pamphlet). Philadelphia: 1916.
Hunter, W. A. Fisherman's Knots and Wrinkles .
London: 1927.
Irving, Commander J. Knots, Ties and Splices.
New York: 1934.
Anonymous. Jewellers' Book of Patterns in Flair-
work. London: circa 1865.
Jutsum, Captain J. Netherclift. Knots, Bends
and Splices. Glasgow: 1908, 1917.
Kunhardt, C. P. Ropes: Their Knots and
Splices. New York: 1893.
Latter, Lucy R. Knotting, Looping and Plaiting.
London: N. D.
Le Blanc, H. The Art of Tying the Cravat.
Philadelphia and Paris: 1828; London and
New York: 1829.
Locke, L. Leland. Ancient Quipu or Peruvian
Knot Record. New York: 1923.
Milburn, George. Flow to Tie All Kinds of
Knots. Gerard, Kansas: 1927.
National Safety Council. Knots, Bends, Flitches
and Slings (pamphlet). Chicago: N. D.
“Nauticus” (pseudonym). The Splicing of Ropes
( Cotton and Wire). London: N. D.
New Bedford Cordage Co. The Knot Book. New
Bedford: 1935.
Ohrvall, Hjalmar. De Viktigaste Kmitarna.
Stockholm: 1912.
. Oni Knutar. Stockholm: 1908, 1916.
Osborn, E. H. Rope Work. Sauk Center: 1915.
Paskins, T. F. Splicing and Socketing Wire Rope.
Musselburgh: N. D.
Plymouth Rope Co. Useful Knots and How tc
Tie Them (pamphlet). Plymouth: N. D.
Post, Charles Johnson. Horse Packing. New
York: 1914.
Post Office Department, Great Britain. Cord-
age and Tackle, Knotting and Splicing. Lon-
don: 1926.
Renner, Kapitan C. Knoten, Spleissen und and ere
Seem'dnnische Handarbeiten. Berlin: 1927.
Riley, Howard W. Knots, Hitches and Splices
Ithaca: 1912.
Riley, H. W., Robb, B. B., and Behrends, F. G
Knots, Hitches and Splices. Ithaca: 1972.
f *95 1
A LIST OF BOOKS WHICH CONTAIN MATERIAL ON KNOTS
Roehl, Louis M. Rope Work. Milwaukee: 1921.
Saito, Yen. Knots and Paper Folding. Tokyo:
1918.
Schomann, A, Das Tauwerk. Hamburg: 1925.
Scoate s, Daniels. Rope Work . Department of
Agriculture, Washington, D. C.: 1915.
Shaw, George Russell. Knots , Useful and Orna-
mental . Boston: 1924.
. The same, enlarged. Boston: 1933.
Simmons, John, Co. Knots and How to Tie
Them (pamphlet). New York: N. D.
Skirving, R. Scot. Wire Splicing for Yachtsmen .
Sidney: 1931.
Smith, Johnson, publisher. Rope Splicing , Useful
Knots , etc . (pamphlet). Chicago: N. D.
Spencer, Charles L. Knots y Splices and Fancy
Work. Glasgow: 1934.
Stopford, Captain P. J. (R. N.). Cordage and
Cables . Glasgow: 1925.
Walker, Louisa. Varied Occupations in String-
work . London: 1896.
Whitlock Cordage Co. Knots the Sailors Use
(pamphlet). New York: N. D.
Woodhouse and Kilgour. Cordage and Cordage
Hemp and Fibres . London: 1918.
Part IV
PRACTICES ALLIED TO KNOTTING
Anonymous. Rigging. War Department, Wash-
ington: 1924.
Bocher, Emmanuel. Needlework. Four folio vol-
umes. Paris: 1914.
Caulfield and Saward. Dictionary of Needle-
work. London: 1882.
Crampton, Charles. Canework . Leicester: 1928.
De Dillmont, Therese. Encyclopedia of Needle
W ork. Paris: N. D.
, Macrcnne. (Abstracted in part from the
above work with additional photographic
illustrations) “D.M.C. Library.” Mulhouse.
. Knotted Fringes . “D.M.C. Library.” Mul-
house: N. D.
Eliason, Eldridge. Practical Bandaging. Philadel-
phia: 1930.
Griswold, Lester. Handicraft. (Includes quill,
thong, bead, rope and hair work. An excel-
lent instruction book, well illustrated.) Den-
ver: 1931.
Haddon, Kathleen. Artists in String. (Cat’s
Cradles.) New York: 1930.
. Cat's Cradles front Many Lands. London:
191 2.
Holden, G. P. Streamer aft and Angling Manual.
(Fly tying.) Cincinnati: 1920.
Herwig, P. C. The Square Knot Book. (Mac-
rame. Good elementary instruction.) 97 Sands
St., Brooklyn: N. D.
Jayne, C. F. String Figures . (Cat’s Cradles.) New
York: 1906.
Lambert, Miss. Handbook of Needlework . New
York: 1842.
Post, Charles J. Horse Packing. New York: 1914.
Rollo, W. Keith. Art of Fly Fishing. London:
I 93 I *
Rouse-Ball, W. W. String Figures . (Cat’s
Cradles.) Cambridge: 1928.
Starlight Manual of Knitting and Crocheting.
Boston: 1887.
Walker, Louisa. Varied Occupations in String-
work. London: 1896.
Wallace, Dillon. Packing and Portaging. New
York: 1916.
White, Mary. How to Make Baskets. (Good
elementary instruction.) New York: 1907.
Various museum bulletins (American Museum of
Natural History, Smithsonian, etc.) have
excellent instruction on basketry, hat braid-
ing, rugmaking, cat’s cradles, trapping, etc.,
which are easily procurable.
A GLOSSARY OF TERMS, MAINLY NAUTICAL, PERTAINING
TO KNOTS AND ROPE WORK
Adrift: A piece of rigging goes adrift when the
end unreeves; a knot when it spills.
Against the Sun: Counterclockwise.
Ambulance Knot: The Reef Knot, a needle-
work term.
Arse: The hole in a block through which the
fall is rove.
Artificer’s Knot: The Clove Hitch.
“As They Lie”: Ends tucked directly under
instead of first over and then under .
(A) ’Vast!: Stop or halt. “’Vast heaving” is the
order to stop work at the capstan.
Jack a Strand, To: (i) In the Long Splice, to
fill the score vacated by one strand, with one
of the opposite strands. (2) In the Back-
handed Splice, to tuck one strand in a helix
around the opposing one.
Backhanded Rope: The yarns and strands have a
right twist and the rope itself a left twist.
Back Splice: The strands are first crowned, then
tucked back over and under as in a Short
Splice.
Backing: Small flanking wormings at either side
of the main worming, in large hawsers and
cables.
Barber’s Knot: The Sheet Bend when used for
tying hair in wigmaking.
Have a Bearing, To: To be properly couched.
Becket: (i) The rope handle of a sea chest. (2)
The eye or hook of a block strap. (3) A
short rope with an eye at one end and a
button at the other, used to confine and
secure spars, oars, etc.
Belay, To: To secure a rope with S or figure-
eight turns around a belaying pin, cleat or
bitts.
Belaying Pin: A wood, metal or bone pin in-
serted through a hole in a rail, to which run-
ning rigging is made fast.
Bend, A: A knot which ties two ropes’ ends
together.
Bend, To: (i) To tie two ropes together. (2) To
tie to an anchor. (3) To tie a rope to a spar.
(4) To secure a sail to a spar.
Bends: Small ropes used as seizings in clinching a
cable.
Bight or Bite: Any slack part of a rope between
the two ends, particularly when curved or
Bind, To: (i) To jam. (2) To seize or lash.
Bitts: Upright timbers, usually in pairs, for mak-
ing fast hawsers and cables.
Bitt, To: To take a turn around a bitt.
Bitter End: The inactive inboard end of a cable
abaft the Carrick bitts.
Black Knot: A hard knot or tangle.
Block: A machine with grooved wheels for di-
verting the lead of a rope or, when com-
pounded, for increasing the power of a
tackle.
Block and Fall: A tackle. At sea these generally
bear specific names, so the expression is more
common ashore.
Block-A-Block, “Block and Block,” “Two
Blocks” and “Chock-a-block”: The blocks of
a tackle hauled together. The term is com-
monly used to mean that the limit or capacity
(of anything) has been reached.
Bollard or Bollards: (i) Originally the knight-
heads of a ship when extended above the rail
and used for making fast. ( 2 ) A pair of posts
at either side of a dock or lock. (3) Posts of
iron or wood on a wharf or the deck of a
ship, either single or double. Sometimes the
distinction is made that bollards belong to
the wharf and not the deck. Captain Francis
Stone always called a single post or pile, suit-
able for mooring, a bollard. At the present
time bollards are generally of cast iron, are
either single or double, and commonly are
round, while bitts are usually rectangular.
Bolt: A heaver, q.v.
Boltrope: Three-strand rope sewed around the
edges of sails.
Bond: A knot that binds.
Bourchier Knot: In heraldry, the Reef Knot.
Bow Grace: Old rope and cable nailed to the
planking of a ship as a protection against ice.
Bowline: ( 1 ) A rope that trims the forward leech
of a square sail. (2) Nowadays the knot for-
merly employed in making the bowline fast
to the Bowline Cringles.
Bouse or Bowse: To move an object about deck
by means of a small tackle.
Braces: Ropes with which to trim the yards.
Brace Up, To: To take up slack and to sail “full
and by.”
Brails: Ropes leading through cringles in the
leech of the spanker and spencers, to assist
in furling, similar to buntlines.
Bridle: A span of rope used in attaching halyards,
fore-and-aft sheets, bowlines, etc.
Bring Up, To: To fetch, to come in contact.
Bring Up with a Round Turn, To: To check, or
be checked, suddenly.
[ 597 1
GLOSSARY
Builder’s Knot: The Clove Hitch, one of “Tom
Bowling’s” names.
Bull’s-Eye: A wooden thimble or block having
no shiv, usually of lignum vitae; early ones
of elm.
Bunt: The central section of the foot of a square
sail or seine.
Buntline: For hauling up the bunt when furling
and reefing.
Button: (i) A Knob Knot. (2) A leather washer
used under nailheads when securing stirrups
to the yards.
By the Run: To let go by the run is to let go or
cast off instantly, instead of slacking off grad-
ually.
Cable Qr Cable-Laid Rope: Three hawsers or
ropes twisted and laid up, or closed, together.
Cable’s Length: As a unit of measurement, 100
fathoms. The actual length of a cable depends
upon the length of the ropewalk, usually
about 120 fathoms.
Cablets: Cable-laid rope under nine inches in cir-
cumference.
Cant Rope: An old name for four-strand rope
without a core. Also called “four cant” (Ad-
miral Smyth).
Capsize, To: To change its form under stress, to
pervert. Said of a knot.
Capstan Knot: A name loosely applied to several
knots, none of which appear to have any pur-
pose connected with the capstan.
Carry Away, To: To break and go adrift. Ap-
plied to both sails and rigging.
Cast, To: To tie a knot (generally a Knob Knot).
“It has a Matthew Walker’s knot cast in the
end.” (Lever, 1808.)
Cast Loose or Cast Oft: (i) To remove the
turns from a belaying pin. (2) To untie a
knot, to unbend. (3) To cut seizings or stops.
Casting Line: A heaving line. Also, in angling ,
the leader.
Chafe, To: To fray, fret, gall or rub.
Chafing Gear: Mats, baggy wrinkles, Scotchmen,
rounding, etc., for protecting rigging and
spars from wear of different sorts.
Check, To: To slacken and hold alternately with
a turn around a pin or bitt.
Cheerly: Quickly, with a will, heartily. Often ap-
plied to hoisting.
Chinckle: A small bight (kink) in a line. (Ad-
miral Smyth.)
Clap On, To: An expression used in seizing, nip-
pering, stopping and stoppering. The two
hands are brought together and the ends ex-
changed, for passing the turns.
Clear, To: To remove kinks and snarls from a
rope.
Cleat. An object with two horns, for belaying
ropes.
Clews: Eyes in the lower corners of a square sail,
and in the after lower corner of a fore-and-aft
sail.
Close, To: To lay three plain-laid ropes together
to form a cable.
Clue: A thread which, if followed, leads to the
solution of a problem.
Coach whipping: A sinnet made around a core in
which several strands are worked as a unit.
Also any sinnet worked around a core.
Coax a Strand, To: To tighten a knot gradually
by taking up a little slack at a time, and work-
ing each strand in turn until all is snug.
Cockscomb: A serrated stop cleat on the end of a
yard, to which reef earings are hauled out and
lashed. (Also spelled coxcomb.)
Cockscombing: A needlework term that has re-
cently been applied to Ringbolt Hitching.
Coil: A series of flakes in a rope, one turn upon
another, so arranged for convenience in han-
dling and storing.
Come and Go, The: The play or scope allowed
any rope or gear.
Come Up, To (A Rope or Tackle): To slacken
it gently.
Common Knot: A loose name for the Ree*-,
Overhand and other knots. Also applied as an
adjective to many others as Common
Weaver’s Knot, Common Bend, etc.
Contlines: See Cuntlines.
Cont Splice: See Cunt Splice.
Cord: Several yarns hard-twisted together.
Cordage: All twisted rope of whatever material or
size.
Corded: Hard-twisted r Sometimes ir means lashed.
A trunk is often corded, and so also is an old-
fashioned rope bed.
Core: The heart of a rope or sinnet; heart is the
sailor’s term.
Couch, To: To rest in the proper niche. “The
strands Couch better.” (Steel.)
Crossing Knot: Found in lashings and parcels
where two parts are engaged where they cross
each other at right angles.
Crossing Turns: Similar to f rapping turns but
found in seizings and mousings. They are at
right angles to the underneath turns and serve
to tighten them and keep them compact.
Crotch or Crutch, To: To marry the opened
ends of two ropes preliminary to splicing or
shroud knotting.
Crowfoot: Radiating lines from a euphroe block
with which to stretch awnings, nets, etc.
Cuntlines: The surface seams between the strands
of a rope.
Cunt Splice: Two ends side spliced together,
with a gap between the two parts.
Diamond Hitch: A method of pack lashing.
Dip, To: In knotting, to tuck. The term is em-
ployed by both Alston and Luce.
Dog’s Cock or Prick: The common name for the
crowned and back spliced end of a rope.
Found on bucket lanyards, hand lead lines,
etc.
Dogshank: A literal translation of the French
name for Sheepshank
[ 598 3
GLOSSARY
Dog, To: To back the tail of a block several turns
around a stay, with the lay of the rope.
Doublings: The overlap where two ropes or two
parts of the same rope parallel each other, as
the shrouds above the deadeyes. The term is
usually applied to the overlap of two spars at
the tops.
Double, To: To follow the lay of a decorative
knot an additional circuit, as in a Turk’s-
Head or Man rope. If there are three parallel
parts (a Three-Ply Knot) the sailor de-
scribes it in his own way as having been
“doubled three times.”
Douse, To: To lower and stow a sail hastily.
Draw, To (A Knot): To untie it.
Drift or Play: Margin allowed for stretch or
shrinkage. “Allow two feet six inches drift
for setting up with a lanyard.” (Bushell,
i«54*)
Earings: Ropes with which to bend the corners
of a square sail. There are also reef earings at
the ends of reef bands.
Ease or Ease Off, To: To slacken.
Elbow: Cables crossed twice.
End: The termination of a rope or the free end
leading from the top of a Stopper Knot.
End for End: To shift each end of a rope to the
position that has been held by the other.
Enter, To: To tuck a strand.
Entering Rope: An old name for a manrope.
Eye: A spliced, seized or knotted loop.
Fag End: The unfinished end of a rope, left in
manufacture.
Fag, To: To fray.
Fagged Our: Worn and raveled.
Fair, To: To smooth out, to even a knot, splice or
sinnet. A shipbuilding term.
Fair-Leaders: Boards lashed in the rigging with
holes to direct the lead of running rigging.
Also various other fittings for similar pur-
poses.
Fake: See Flake.
Fall: (i) The whole rope of a tackle. (2) The
hauling end only of a tackle.
Fall Block: The block in a tackle where energy
is first applied.
Fancy Knot: Any decorative or trick knot, even
one that serves a practical purpose.
Fast: Secure.
Fay, To: A strand is said to be fayed down when
it is teased, tapered and laid flat against a rope,
spar or hook for seizing, serving or pointing
over.
Fetch, To: To bring up, to reach the objective.
Fid: A long tapering cone, generally of hard
wood, for rounding out eyes, cringles, etc.
Fid Out, To: To ream or round out an Eye
Splice, cringle, clew, eyelet hole, grommet,
etc., preliminary to inserting a thimble or
otherwise finishing off.
Filling: Material used in worming a rope, weav-
ing a sword mat, etc.
Finish Off, To: To add the final flourish, as tw
whip an end, knot a seizing, etc.
Fish, To: To mend broken spars by binding
wooden splints along the injured parts.
Fist, To: To grasp a rope or sail and handle it
quickly.
Flake: A single turn, or a tier of turns, in a coil.
The dictionary form fake is unknown at sea,
although so spelled by Captain John Smith
(1627). Boteler uses the form flake in 1688.
Flaking: Coiling in various ways.
Flatten, To; Flatten Out, To; Haul Flat: A
sheet is hauled flat when it is “sheeted home.”
Fleet, To: To come up on a tackle and draw the
blocks apart for another pull.
Fleet the Messenger, To: To rearrange the turns
when they have crawled too high on the
capstan.
Foul, To: To become entangled with some other
object. A foul cable is caught on the fluke of
an anchor, etc.
Follow the Lead, To: In Turk’s-Heads and
other knots, to parallel alongside the first-laid
strand with identical over-and-under.
For a Full Due: To set up (rigging) to the de-
sired tautness in one uninterrupted haul.
Fox: Yarns twisted together in several ways.
Frapping: A number of crossing turns in a lashing
or the leads of a tackle, which serve to both
tighten and secure them. When at anchor
halyards are frapped to prevent slatting at
night.
Fray, To: To fret, ravel, unravel. Generally ap-
plied to a rope’s end.
Freshen, To: To shift a rope so that chafe will
come at a new place in a hawse pipe, chock,
fair-leader, etc. Usually the order is “Freshen
the hawse.”
Fret, To: To chafe or wear on the surface
through rubbing.
Frog Knot: A flat appliqued knot used decora-
tively on dresses and uniforms. Often called
“military frogs.”
Full: A term sometimes used instead of Double
in describing a knot, as Full Matthew
Walker and Full Carrick Bend.
Furl, To: To gather and secure sails with stops,
gaskets, etc. Square sails are lifted for this pur-
pose; most fore-and-aft sails are lowered; and
a few are brailed to the mast.
Gall, To: To chafe or fret. Applies particularly
to hawsers and cables.
Gang: A set of rigging for a mast or yard. Also a
gang of knots in a footrope.
Ganging Line or a Ganging: A short line at-
tached at one end to a hook and at the other
end to the ground line of a trawl.
Gaskets: Of French or Flat Sinnet, for furling
sail to yards.
Gear: The paraphernalia of commercial fishing.
In amateur fishing “fishing tackle” is called
for.
[ 599 1
GLOSSARY
Give, To: To start, tu ease, to render, to slacken,
to slip.
Goke: An old name for the heart or core of a
shroud-laid rope.
Gordian Knot: A legendary one that was difficult
to untie. Some authors have contended that it
was the first splice. Also a certain trick knot.
Gouty End: A weathered and swelled end in run-
ning rigging.
Graft: Originally a kind of splice, now the
method that was used in covering the splice.
Grinds: Kinks or “half kinks” in a hempen cable.
Gripe: A rope employed in lashing a boat.
Ground Tackle: General term for all hawsers,
cables, buoy ropes and warps employed in
anchoring, mooring and sometimes in tow-
ing a vessel.
Grow, To: A cable grows in the direction it leads
from the hawse hole.
(Q) “How does she grow?” (A) “Dead
ahead, sir!”
Guys: Stays for cranes, shears, derricks, poles,
booms, etc.
Hagsteeth or Hakesteeth: Irregularities in mats,
points, sinnets, etc.
Halter: The rope used in a hanging, or one with
which a domestic animal is “hitched” or led.
Halyards or Halliards: Ropes for hoisting sails
and yards.
Hand, To: To furl. A hand is a sailor. To “hand,
reef and steer” is termed the “sailor’s A.B.C.”
Hand Over Hand: To haul rapidly on a rope,
employing alternate hands.
Handsomely: Slowly, carefully, gently, gradu-
ally; as to lower away handsomely.
Hand Taut or Tight: Set up by hand alone with-
out use of tackle.
Handy: Ready at hand, as a tool. Also dexterous,
skillful.
Handy Billy: A small tackle kept handy for small
jobs.
Hang On, To: To hold fast without belaying.
Hank: The spliced grommet first used on stays
for bending staysails and jibs. Wooden and
iron hanks were invented in the latter part of
the eighteenth century. Also a skein of yarn;
also a coil of cord consisting of a number of
long turns covered with tight crossing turns.
Hard Knot: ( i ) Any knot that jams. (2) A Reef
Knot as opposed to a Granny. (3) A Reef
Knot as opposed to a Half Bow or Draw-
knot.
Hard-Laid or Short-Laid: Tightly twisted rope.
Haul, To: To pull by hand on a rope or tackle.
Formerly to pull on a single rope without
blocks.
Haul Home, To: To sheet home. To pull until
your rope fetches up, chockablock.
Hawser: A plain-laid rope big enough for towing
and mooring.
Heart: A slack-twisted rope or strand employed
as a core in shroud-laid rope, wire rope and
sin net.
Heart: A sort of deadeye with a single hole, hav-
ing either three or four grooves to hold the
parts of a lanyard in place.
Heart Yarns: The center yarns of a strand, which
do not appear on the surface.
Heave, To: To exert leverage on a windlass
brake, capstan bar, marlingspike, etc.
Heave Down: To pull a vessel over on its side,
to careen, so that the bottom is exposed.
Heaver: A sailmaker’s tool, also called “stitch mal-
let,” illustrated in Chapter 1 . Also a stick with
rope tails used in ropemaking, splicing and
worming.
Heaving Line: A light line secured to the eye of a
mooring rope and bearing a heavy knot, often
a weighted one, which is tossed to the wharf
and by means of which the mooring line is
hauled ashore.
Heraldic Knots: Pictured knots on family de-
vices. Only a few of these will form tangible
knots.
Hercules Knot: The Roman name for the Reei
Knot.
Hitch, A: A knot that secures a rope to another
object. This can be another rope if the latter
is inert.
Hobble, To: To secure a domestic animal by one
or more of its feet or to tie two feet together.
Hoist, To: To lift by means of a tackle.
Hoist, The: The perpendicular edge of a sail or
flag that is next to the mast.
Home: In place, sharp up, to the limit, chocka-
block.
Honda or Honda Knot: The eye in a lariat
through which the rope is rove to form the
required Noose.
Horns: The arms of a cleat.
Horses: An old name for f 00 tropes. Now applied
only to the Flemish horses on the extremities
of the topsail yards.
Irish Pennants: Frayed rope yarns and loose ends
in reef points, gaskets, service, seizings, etc.
Irish Splice: A ratline, tightened or loosened by
twisting the lay.
Jackstays: Ropes, wooden battens or iron bars
stretched along the yards, to which the sails
are bent.
Jam, To: To refuse to render, to draw up into a
tight knot that is difficult to untie.
Junk: Old rope and cable cut up into short
lengths, for working up into twice-laid stuff.
Kackling or Keckling: Old rope passed around
hawsers and cable to prevent chafe at the
hawse pipes, etc.
Kedge, To: To move a vessel ahead by boating
anchors and heaving at alternate cables.
Kink: “When a roape which should run smooth
in the block, hath got a little tume.” (Sii
Henry Manwayring.)
Knob Knot: A bunch in a rope to prevent un-
reeving or slipping
f 600 ]
GLOSSARY
Knot: (i) Specifically, a Knob Knot. (2)
Broadly, any complication in rope except (a)
accidental ones, as snarls and kinks, and
(b) arrangements for storage, coils, balls,
skeins, hanks, etc. (3) The same as (2) but
further excluding sinnets, splices, hitches and
bends.
Kop Knot: An old name for the Tack or Man-
rope Knot, given by Norie (1804).
Lacing or Lace Line: A long line used in bending
and reefing sail.
Lair Rope: A rope used in making up a pack for
animal transportation.
Lanyard: (i) A small rope for making fast the
end of a stay, etc. (2) Handles for marling-
spikes, clothesbags, ditty bags, jackknives,
whistles, etc., commonly ornamented with
knots and sinnets.
Lariat: Lasso, riata, rope, etc., for snaring run-
ning animals from horseback.
Lark: The French name for a Ring or Tag Knot
(Tete cTallouette).
Lash, To: (i) To bind two or more objects to-
gether. (2) To wrap a single object with a
series of turns or hitches. (3) To secure any
movable object on shipboard in order to pre-
vent shifting.
Lay: The direction of the twist in a rope, the lead
of the strands, also the nature of the twist, as
hard, soft, left, right, long or short. To “open
the lay” is to separate the strands with a fid or
fingers.
Lay, To: To form a rope in a ropewalk by twist-
ing the strands together.
Lay Up, To: To restore the lay of a rope’s end
after it has been opened, particularly after a
Stopper Knot has been tied. A short length
of rope is relaid and a whipping added.
Lay Hold, To: To seize a rope and stand by.
Lay Off, To: To quit, as to lay off a yard.
Lay Out, To: To take a position on a yardarm or
a jib boom.
Lead: The direction of a rope. The direction of a
strand in a knot.
Leads: The parts of a tackle between the two
blocks, as opposed to the standing part and
fall.
Leech: The side edges of a square sail and the
after edge of a fore-and-aft sail.
Left-Handed Knot: A mirrored or perverted
knot, tied contrary to the prevailing practice.
Left-Handed or Left-Laid Rope: The reverse of
right-handed or plain-laid rope. The yarns
and rope have a left twist and the strands a
right one.
Legs: When a rope branches into two or more
parts they are often termed legs, as the legs
of a crowfoot or a bowline. Also the opened
strands of a rope’s end employed in splicing
or knotting.
Lend a Hand, To: To assist, to aid in hauling, etc.
Let Go, To: To cast off. To let go “by the run”
is to cast off all at once.
Lie Fair, To: To be ready, in position.
Ligature Knot: A Surgeon’s Knot for constrict-
ing.
Light, To: To move a heavy cable in short shifts,
by hand.
Line: A common name for various cordage, with-
out specific meaning, as fishline, clew line,
heaving line, whale line, spring line, towline,
clothesline, mooring line.
Lizard: A short pennant with a bull’s-eye or
thimble spliced in one end.
Long- Jawed Rope: Old rope that has stretched
and lost much of its twist.
Loop Knot: A closed and knotted bight. An Eye
Splice is a Multi-Strand Loop Knot.
Loose, To (a Sail): To unfurl it. To loose a knot
is to untie or spill it.
Magged Rope: Worn or fretted rope.
Make Fast, To: (i) To secure a rope with 4
hitch. (2) To finish off belaying with a Sin-
gle Hitch.
Make Sail: Being under way, to set additional
sail.
Manhandle: To move heavy objects by man-
power alone, without the aid of tackle or
other machine.
Manropes: Originally the jib-boom footropes.
The name was afterwards applied to the en-
tering ropes which provide a handhold to
anyone coming overside.
Marl, To: To secure parceling with a series of
Marline Hitches.
Marlingspike or Marlinespike: A conical rig-
ger’s tool of metal, with a knobbed head for
pounding, used to tighten seizings, service
and whippings and to open strands when
knotting and splicing.
Marlingspike Sailor: One handy with knots and
splices. A term used by Brady ( Kedge An-
chor , 1841).
Marry, To: (i) To butt two ropes’ ends and
worm over the joint, adding four stops. Used
in reeving off. (2) To open and crotch two
ropes’ ends preparatory to splicing or shroud
knotting.
Mesh: One of the compartments of a net.
Messenger: A rope belt passing around two cap-
stans, by means of which the cable is hove in.
Middle, To: To determine the center of a piece
of rope by laying the two ends together.
Moor, To: To tie up to a wharf or buoy, or else
to anchor both bow and stem.
Neck of a Knot: The stem.
Nettles, Knittles, Knettles: Small, twice-laid
stuff made of rope yarns, used in sinnets, seiz-
ings, etc.
Nip, The: The spot within a knot where the end
is gripped and is thereby made secure. To nip
is to cease giving and to become secure.
Nippers: Small ropes which hold the messenger ta
the cable.
Noose: A loop which passes around its own stand-
ing part and draws tight when hauled upon.
[ <5oi ]
GLOSSARY
Norman: The horizontal iron pin in a bitt.
Oakum: Old yarn picked apart. Used in calking,
stuffing oil bags, etc.
Open, To: To separate the strands or yarns of a
rope. To untie a knot.
Over and Under: Descriptive of the weave of
certain knots, as Turk’s-Heads.
Overhaul (a Tackle): To separate the blocks
for another haul.
Palm: A narrow mitt with a thumb hole and a
checkered piece of metal at the palm for push-
ing a sail needle.
Parcel, To: To bind strips of canvas around rope
before marling; the direction is with the lay.
Part, To: To break.
Part, Standing: In a tackle the part spliced to a
block. In a rope the inactive part as opposed
to the bight and end.
Part, A: Each reappearance of a strand on the
surface of a knot.
Pass, To: To shift regularly from one hand to
another or from one person to another, as in
passing gaskets, stoppers, nippers and seizings.
Pay Out, To (a Cable): To slack away slowly,
to allow it to run out.
Pendant: A short rope with a thimble spliced in
one end to which a tackle is hooked.
Picket, To: To stake out an animal, generally for
the night.
Pigtail: A wisp of fiber middled, twisted and the
two legs laid up together, particularly hemp
and flax. A short tail attached to a hook, for
loosing.
Pinion, To: To bind the arms or wings of any
creature.
Plain-Laid: Hawser-laid. Three-strand, right-
handed rope.
Plait: Pronounced plat, which see.
Plat: Sinnet. Flat and French Sinnet specifi-
cally.
Play: Drift, margin allowed for shrinkage and
stretching.
Point: A decorative cone-shaped termination
on cables and running rigging. Ostensibly to
aid in reeving but really to prevent pilfering.
Pricker: A tool smaller than a marlingspike, gen-
erally with a w ooden handle.
Purchase: An arrangement of blocks and fall in
which the standing part and the fall both lead
to the same block.
Quilting: Mats nailed to planking as protection
against ice.
Quoyle: Coil. (Boteler, 1634.)
Rack a Fall, To: To stop the fall to one of the
leads of a tackle with a series of racking turns.
Racking Turns: Seizing and lashing turns taken
figure-eight-fashion.
Racks: Long fair-leaders with many holes, lashed
in the rigging above the shear pole.
Raddle, To: To plat, according to Smyth.
Ravel and Unravel: To fray.
Range of Cable: Sufficient cable for the depth,
laid out in flakes on deck, ready for anchor-
ing.
Rattle Down, To: To secure ratlines to the
shrouds, so forming a ladder aloft.
Reef Hanks: When reef points were first made
of rope instead of sinnet they were called
hanks; later the earlier name point was re-
turned.
Reeve, To: To pass the end of a rope through any
hole or opening.
Reeve Off, To: To reeve new running rigging
through the blocks from unbroken coils, first
marrying the old rope to the new.
Render, To: To slacken, give, ease off.
Ride, To: A rope is said to ride a capstan when
one turn settles over another.
Riders or Riding Turns: In seizings and whip-
pings a second tier of turns, always one less
in number than the ground or under turns.
Rigging: In its narrowest meaning the lower
shrouds alone. Broadly, all the rope in a ship
except ground tackle is divided into standing
and running rigging. Standing rigging is per-
manently secured at both ends, running rig-
ging at one end only.
Right-Handed: Plain- or hawser-laid rope, which
is right-handed like a corkscrew.
Robands, Rope Bands (pronounced robbins ): The
lines with which square sails are bent.
Roding: Originally the anchor warp or cable of a
coasting schooner, nowadays of any small
craft. Derived from roadstead and roadster.
Rope: Anything in cordage over one inch in cir-
cumference.
Rope Yarn: A single thread from the strand of a
rope.
Ropes: There is an old saying that “there are
seven ropes on a ship.” Luce gives a list of
about forty ropes and there are at least
twenty more, but all these were never in use
at the same time.
Roping: To strengthen the edges of a sail. Square
sails are roped on the after side and fore-and-
aft sails on the port side.
Roping: Lashing a trunk or parcel, a shore term.
Round of a Rope, The: The length of a single
strand in one complete passage around the
rope.
Rounding: Old three-inch rope served on a cable
at the hawse pipe for chafing gear.
Round Up: To take up the slack on a tackle.
Rousing or Rowsing: To pull together by hand
on the cable, to haul in slack.
Running Rigging: All rigging that is rove through
blocks.
Run Out, To: To boat a warp, and make fast the
end.
Sailor’s Knot: Carrick Bend, Sheet Bend, Reef
Knot, Bowline, etc. The name is loosely ap-
plied to any good or unfamiliar knot.
Seam Rubber: A tool for turning a seam and
creasing it, also called merely “a rubber.”
[ 602 ]
GLOSSARY
Send Down, To (or Send Aloft): Preferred to
lower and hoist when speaking of spars, sails
or other heavy gear.
Seine Needle: A netting needle. Illustrated in
Chapter i.
Seizing: A lashing of spun yarn, marline or small
stuff either with or without riding turns.
Service: Marline or small stuff, bound around
standing rigging for protection against wear
and weather.
Serving Board: A small tool for putting on and
tightening service.
Serving Mallet: A larger tool for the same pur-
pose.
Set Up, To: To tighten rigging at the lanyards
with a tackle.
Shake Out, To (a Reef): To remove the gaskets
or untie the reef points and to loosen the sail.
Shakings: Odds and ends of old rope, saved for
making oakum.
Sharp Up: Yards braced as far as they will go.
Shears: Two spars lashed together at the top and
guyed; used for raising masts and hoisting
heavy weights.
Sheet: A rope that trims the lower corner of a
sail. To sheet home or sheet flat is to haul the
sheet taut.
Shell: The carcass of a block.
Shift, To: To move a short distance or to substi-
tute one thing for another, as to shift places.
Shiv: The grooved wheel of a block. The earliest
form of the word was shiver.
Short- Laid: Hard-laid rope.
Shot of Cable: Two cables spliced together make
a “shot.” A single cable is usually about 120
fathoms long, depending upon the length of
the ropewalk.
Shoulder Knot: Tied in braid and worn on the
shoulder of a uniform.
Shroud-Laid: Four-strand, right-handed rope
made around a heart.
Shroud Truck: A single fair-leader, lashed to a
shroud.
Shrouds: The lower standing rigging which lead
from the channels to the tops.
Side Ropes: A name for manropes, from Biddle-
combe.
Sick Seams: A sailmaking term. Indicates that the
stitches are worn and giving way.
Simple Hitch: Another name for the Single
Hitch.
Simple Knot: A name for the Overhand Knot.
Sinking a Strand: In splicing a three-strand and
a four-strand rope together, the extra strand
of the latter is “sunk as it lies.”
In a Wire Long Splice the heart is cut out for
a length, and the end of a strand is “sunk” to
take its place.
Sinking a Yarn: In tapering a strand individual
yarns are cut out and the ends tucked under
the remaining yarns.
Sinnet: “Sinnet is braided cordage.” (Steel.) Also
spelled synnet, sennit , sinnit, sennet , etc.
Sinnet Line: The original name for braided rope,
used at sea for signal halyards as early as i860
Sister Strands: Where there are two opposed
sets of strands, as in Short Splices and Shroud
Knots, the related members of each set are
referred to as sister strands.
Slack, The: Loose and superfluous material that
must be worked out to complete a knot.
Slack of a Rope: Any loose or inactive part.
Slack Off or Away, To: To ease off or to let
out.
Slack-Laid: See soft-laid.
Slatch: The loose or slack part of a rope.
Slick: Smooth and slippery as wet rope fiber.
Sling or Slings: A wreath or rope encompassing
an object and by means of which it is to be
hoisted.
Slip Knot: Any knot which may be spilled by
pulling on the end, so withdrawing a loop.
Slip a Cable, To: To buoy an anchor and put to
sea without hoisting it.
Slippering Hitch: A name used by Moore (1801)
for the Slippery Hitch.
Slue, To: To turn anything around without
changing its base.
Small Stuff: Rope that is under one inch in cir-
cumference.
Smartly: Together, with precision and alacrity.
Snare: A Noose for catching birds and animals.
Snarl: A confusion and entanglement of cordage.
Snub, To: To check a line, generally with a round
turn, on a post or pin.
Snug: Compact, neat, tight.
So!: Order to cease hauling for the moment.
Norie gives “Thus!” with the same meaning.
Soft Knot: Bow, Half Bow or Drawknot, in
contradistinction to the Hard or Square
Knot.
Soft-Laid: Loose-twisted rope.
Span: A short rope fast at both ends, to be hauled
on at the center; a bridle.
Spill, To: To untie accidentally, to let go com-
Splice, To: To secure two ropes or two parts of
the same rope together by interweaving the
strands.
Spool: (i) A small stick used as a gauge, around
which meshes are formed in netting. ( 2 ) The
apparatus used by children in making Loop
Sinnet.
Spring Line: A long central diagonal employed in
tying up to a wharf.
Spun Yarn: Yarn made from old rope.
Stafford Knot: The Overhand Knot when pic-
tured in heraldry.
Stand By, To: To take hold of a rope and stand
ready to haul, slacken or belay.
Standing: When prefixed to the name of a knot
it indicates that the knot is of a semiperma-
nent nature, as Standing Turk’s-Head,
Standing Bowline, as opposed to “Run-
ning.”
GLOSSARY
Standing Part (of a Rope): The inactive part as
opposed to the end and bight.
Start, To (a Sheet or Tack): To slack off a bit,
sufficiently to ease the strain on the gear.
Stays: Standing rigging. Fore-and-aft stays lead
forward from the tops. Backstays lead to the
ship's sides abaft the shrouds.
Stem: The neck of a Knob Knot.
Stick, To: To tuck a strand. Specifically to make
the first tuck in an Eye Splice or the final
tuck in a Multi-Strand Button or Stopper
Knot.
Stirrup: The strap or pennant that suspends a
footrope which was formerly nailed to the
yard, but now is secured to the jackstays.
Stitch Mallet: A heaver. A sailmaker’s tool that
is pictured in Chapter i.
Stop, To: To seize or whip temporarily, often
finished off with a Reef Knot.
Stopper: A short rope or cable with a knot at one
end and a hook or shackle at the other for
securing the cable to deck.
Stopper Knot: Any Terminal Knot for pre-
venting unreeving in which the end departs
from the knot at the top.
Stops: Canvas bands or short ropes for furling
fore-and-aft sails.
Stout Rope: Of large circumference for its pur-
pose.
Strand (of a Rope): Two or more yarns twisted
together.
Stranded Rope: A rope with one broken or badly
galled strand.
Strap: (Often spelled strop , but always pro-
nounced strap.) The wreath around a block;
some of them have a tail by which the block
can be lashed in the rigging.
Stretch Along, To: To lay the end of a brace or
sheet along the deck in readiness for a number
of men to lay hold.
Strike, To: To lower something from aloft as
colors, mast or sail:
Strop: See Strap.
Sun, With the: In coiling rope, etc., the same
direction as taken by a clock hand.
Surge, To: To slack up suddenly on a pin, wind-
lass tackle, etc.
Swag, To: To sag, as the center of a horizontal
rope.
Swallow: The mortice between the cheeks of a
block.
Sway, To: To haul vertically on the fall of a
tackle. Particularly to hoist upper yards.
Swift, To: To set up on the rigging. To bring
two shrouds or stays close together with a
rope.
Swifter: The forward lower shroud (formerly
the after one), also the rope which holds the
ends of capstan bars in place.
Swig, Swigging Off: To pull on the center of a
taut rope at right angles to the fall, and to
give the slack so gained to the man at the pin.
Tabling: The wide hem at the edges of a sail, to
which the boltrope is sewed.
Tack: A tapered rope, frequently cable-laid, that
trims forward the weather clew of a course.
Tackle: (Pronounced tay'kle.) A mechanism of
blocks and rope for increasing power.
Tail On! or Tally On!: An order to grasp and
haul.
Take a Turn, To: To put a turn on a belaying
pin.
Take In, To: To furl a sail.
Take-Up: The amount of material expended in
making a knot, splice or sinnet.
Taper, To: To diminish a rope gradually by
scraping and teasing or by systematically cut-
ting out yarns. The surface is usually covered
with needlework.
Taut: Tight.
Tease, To (Out Strands): Derived from teasel.
To open the end of a rope and comb out with
the fingers.
Tether, To (an Animal): To tie it out for graz-
ing.
Thoroughfoot: A tangle in a tackle due to a
block’s turning through the fall.
Thread: A yarn. Small rope is frequently desig-
nated by the total number of its component
threads, as nine-thread or twelve-thread stuff.
Throw, To: Pack lashing ashore is always
“thrown” from man to man or from hand to
hand.
Thrums: Short pieces of yarn for tufting chafing
gear.
Thumb Knot: The Overhand and Weaver’s
Knots, also applied to the Overhand Bend.
Tie, To: About the only time a sailor “ties” is
when he forsakes the sea. Then he “ties up to”
a wharf.
Tier: One range of turns in a coil.
Top: A ropemaking tool, with grooves for the
strands, which “lays” the rope after the
strands have been twisted.
Tow, To: To draw (a boat or car) with a rope.
Trailer: A sinnet tail on a heaver or woolder.
Trice, To: To haul up by a single rope or whip.
Trim, To: To adjust sheets and braces to a favor-
able length.
Truss, To: To bind, to lash, to truss up.
Turk’s-Head: A platted wreath or ring, a section
of which is similar to sinnet.
Turn: One round of rope on a pin or cleat, one
round of a coil.
Turn In, To (a Deadeye): To seize a shroud or
stay securely around it.
Turn, To Take a: To belay.
Twice-Laid Stuff: Nettles, foxes, sinnets. Small
stuff made by hand from old cables and rope.
Unbend: To cast off.
Unlay: To open a rope.
Yangs: Ropes with which to trim the peak of a
spencer or spanker.
[ 604 ]
GLOSSARY
Veer, To, or To Veer Away: To slacken and
pay out gradually.
Veer and Haul, To: To slack on one rope and
haul on another that leads to the same spar
(Braces, etc.).
Wake Knot: A name for the Carrick Bend in
heraldry.
Warp, To: To shift a vessel by means of hawsers.
A warp is generally hawser-laid.
Water- Laid Rope: (i) Three-strand, left-laid
rope. (2) Rope that is moistened in the mak-
ing instead of being oiled, sometimes called
“white rope.” (3) Cable-laid rope, which is
said to absorb less water than hawser-laid
rope.
Weed, To: To clear rigging, cable and clothes-
lines of stops, rope yarns, etc.
Whip, To: To bind the end of a rope to prevent
fraying.
With the Lay, or With the Sun (to Coil): A
right-hand or clockwise coil.
Woolder: A ropemaker’s tool consisting of a stick
with one or two trailers, for twisting, holding
and laying rope. Nowadays called a heaver .
Work, To: To draw up and mold a knot. To
work up yam is to make small stuff of it by
hand.
Worm a Rope, To: To fill the seams with spun
yarn, marline or fishline.
Yarn: A number of fibers twisted together.
V 605 j
INDEX
The number of an index item refers to the page on which the illustration of a knot appears
The description is on the same or the facing page.
Adjustable Bend, 266
Adjustable Bowstring Knot, 32, 188
Adjustable Girdle, 331
Adjustable Hitch, 32, 70, 304
Adjustable Jam Hitch, 325
Adjustable Loop, 187
Adjustable swing, 76, 590
Against the lay , 157
Alston’s Bowline Knot, 186
Alston’s French Shroud Knot, 277
Alternating knots in lanyards, 1 36
Alternative way of sticking a Short
Splice, 429
American Cringle, 467
American whipping, 546
Anchor Bends, 309
Anchor Hitch, 13, 310
Anchor post, 3 1 8
Angler, the, 32
Angler’s Knot, 259
Angler’s Loop, 49, 186, 188, 189, 336;
Double, 193
Angler’s Splice, 436
Antigallican Splice, 461
Anti-Galligan Hitch, 285
Anvil cleat, 286
Applied knots, 549-92
Appliqued Knots, 374
Arbitrary knot form, 372
Arboreal Knot, 77, 298
Archer, the, 3 1
Arnold, Sir Edwin, 1 65
Arrow and whip, 332
Artificial Eye, 457
Artillery Knot, 149
Artillery Loop, 32
Artist, the, 32, 75
Ascot Tie, 384
Aseptic Knot, Surgeon’s, 75
Ashley, Burton M., 331
Ashley, Phoebe YV., 95, 101
Ashley, R. Eugene, 7 1
Ashley, S. R., 331
Aspinwall, George L., 1 88
Assembled Japanese Knots, 402
Assembled Knots, 394, 397, 398, 402
Automobile tire fenders, 558
Automobilist, the, 33
Awning cleat, 286
Awning Knot, 19, 304, 310, 325, 41 1
Axle Hitch, 33, 58
Backhanded Eye Splice, 450
Backhanded Hitch, 293, 296, 304, 310
Backhanded Hitch and Bowline, 296,
310
Backhanded Mooring Hitch, 304
Backhanded rope, 22
Backhanded Splice, 69
Backhanded tuck, 426
Backhanded Wire Eye Splice (i),
(2), 460
Backhanded Wire Splice, 443
Backing, 539
Bag-a -wrinkle, 553
Baggy winkles, 553
Baggy wrinkles, 34, 553
Bag Knot, 62, 221, 224, 41 1
Bag lanyard, quirt, or leash, 132
Bag lanyards, 132, 576, 577
Bag wrinkles, 553
Bagy wrinkles, 553
Baker, the, 34
Balancing-Pole Hitch, 19, 41
Bale Sling Hitch, 15, 33, 68, 71, 290,
294, 311, 328, 332, 349, 400, 401, 407,
585
Ball-and-socket adjustment for punch-
ing bag, 322
Ball or pompon, 404
Balloonist, the, 34
Banana Knots, 58
Bandage, to change lead of, 332
Banding, 20, 21, 22, 79, 157
Bannister Bars, 401
Bark Josephine , 530
Bamum and Bailey, 6
Barrel Knot, 50, 56, 259
Barrel Knot fringe, 584
Barrel Sling, 349
Barrel-stave hammock, 59, 589
Baseball stitch, 560
Basket Knot, 1 14
Basketmaker, the, 34
Basket Weave Knots, 139, 140, 149,
150, 151, 152, 153, 362, 363, 364, 366,
367; in two planes, 152, 153
Bastard Weaver’s Knot, 79
Bathrobe Cord Knot, 222
Batwing Tie, 384
Beach, D. M., 52
Beaded Bars, 401, 402
Bead stopper, 92
Beard, Dan, 204, 332
Becket Bend, 262
Becket Hitch, 18, 50, 54, 267, 314, 316;
for carrying bag, 327; Slipped, 50;
Slipped and Toggled, 317
Beckets, 1 18, 316, 572, 573, 574, end
papers; on casks, 317
Bee cleat, 546
Beeswax, 2 1
Belay, to, 76
Belay and stop, to, 285
Belay and make fast, to, 283-88
Belay ing-pin turns, 285
[ <507 ]
Bell pulls, 379
Bell Ringer, the, 34
Bell Ringer’s Knot, 34, 44, 209
Bell rope, ship’s, 544
Bell ropes, 582, 583
Belt, 150; lady’s, 581; of Round Sinnet.
581
Belt lacing, 273
Bench handle, 574
Bend, the, 12, 262
Bend, to, to a boom, 519; wires to-
gether, 273
Bending sail, 519
Bends, 257-74; security of, 16, 17, 18.
274; strength of, 16, 17
Bicyclist, the, 34
Bight and Eye, Toggled, 317
Bight Eye Splice, 454
Bight Hitch to post, 306
Bight Knots, 207-12
Bight of a rope, 1 3
Bight to eyebolt, to secure, 320
Bight to knob, to secure, 328
Bill Hitch, 314
Binder’s Knot, 45, 224
Binding Knots, 219-26
Bitter End, the, 288
Bitting a cable, 288
Bitts and bitt stopper, 288
Bivalve, 7
Black, Peter, 530
“Black Boy’’ hitching post, 320
Blackjacks, 580
Black wall Hitch, 74, 314, 384, 528
Blake, Stephen, 207
Blaster, 34
Block, to attach a fall to, 523
Blocks, beckets, and straps, 521, 522,
523,524,525
Block strap, earliest, 525
Block Strap Eye, 456
Block Strap Splice, 429
Blood Knot, 82, 84
Blubber toggle, 3 1 8
Boarding nets, 585
Board of Trade Wire Eye Sptjci 454
Boat Boom Hitch, 292
Boat gripes, 343, 588
Boating an anchor, 538
Boat Knot, i i , 303
Boat lashings, 343
Boat stretchers, 343
Boatswains’ chairs, 73, 590
Boatswain’s Hitch, 74
Boatswain’s Knife Lan\a?u) Kno,
1 4 1 , * 9 *
Boatswains’ Knots, 139, 148, 151
Boatswain’s Lanyard Knot, 148
INDEX
Boatswain’s Whistle or Pipe Lan-
yard Knot, 141
Bobbins for working sinnets, 502
Bocher, knots from, 374
Bollards, 2 88
Bolton, R., 83
Boltrope, 20, 22
Boned and Rolled Roast Knot, 36, 37
Booby Knot, 220
Boogy winkles, 553
Bookbinder’s Knot, 34
Boom Stopper or Foot Stopper Knot,
469,519
Bootmaker, the, 35
Bo’sun’s Knot, 139, 148, 151; in two
planes, 152-53
Bo’sun’s Whistle or Pipe Lanyard
Knot, i 41, 148
Boteler’s Dialogues , 361
Bottle covering, 561
Bottle wrapping, 337
Bow fender, 555
Bowknots, 221, 383,-384, 385, 386
Bowline, Bowling, or Bolin Knot, i 8,
32,49, 54, 55, 76, 186, 187, 303
Bowline, Double, on the bight, 1 96
Bowline and Two Half Hitches, 267
Bowline Bend, 265
Bowline bridles, 3 1 7
Bowline Cringles, 185, 186
Bowline from Two Half Hitches,
409
Bowline. Hitch, 295
Bowline Knot, 336; Double, 186
Bowline on (in or upon) the bight,
195
Bowline on the bights and Bowline,
194 , 417
Bowline Post Hitch, 303
Bowline shortening, 209
Bowline with a bight, 194, 270, 314
Bowsprit shroud collar, 5 34
Bowstring Knot, 32, 43, 187, 193; Ori-
ental, 188
Bow Tie, 384
Bracing a drum, 333
Brady, William, U.S.N., 227, 313, 505
Braid, 47 1
Braided rope, 43
Braided Rope Eye, 457
Braiding spool, 473
Bread Bag Knot, 221, 41 i
Breadboard, 21
Break in new rope, to, 25
Break twine and cord, to, 29, 30
Break out tent stakes, to, 41
Breast pin of human hair, 61
Bridle-rein catch, 320
Bridle-Rein Hitch, 320
Bright, Mrs. Osborn W., 388
Bristles secured to thread, 35, 36
British rocket coil, 5 1 7
Bronze manrope stanchion, 583
Broom, to hang up a, 60
Buckle and strap, 272
Buckle and stud, 272
Buckle of two rings, 272
Bugle cord, 374, 472
Builder’s Knot, i i, 39, 302
Bull earing, 465
Bull’s-eye, 534, 535; of whalebone, 534
Bull’s-eye joint, 273
Bumblebee, 372
Bundles and parcels, 336, 337, 338
Buntline Cringles, 4 66
Buntline Hitch, 14, 38, 51, 223, 295,
31°, 317, 385
Buoy rope, to secure a, 537, 538
Buoy Rope Hitch, 33, 48, 127, 292
Buoy Rope Knot, i 2 7
Burglar, the, 36
Butchers’ Knots, 36, 37, 38, 58, 77, 223
Butterfly Single-Strand Lanyard
Knot, 98
Butterfly Lanyard and Terminal
Knots, Two-Strand, 392, 393, 394,
39 5 , 396
Button and eye strap, 523
Buttonhole Bar, 400
Buttonholing, 570
Button mold, 92
Button Knot, Chinese, 101-04
Button Knot, to attach, 1 1 4
Button Knots, Multi-Strand, tied in
hand, 155-64; Multi-Strand, tied on
table, 165-84; Multi-Strand, with
insufficient strands, 166; Multi-
Strand, with surplus strands, 166;
Single-Strand, 101-14, 112, 113;
Two-Strand, 141, 142
Butt Sling, 349
Byron, Lord, 385
Cabbage net, 586
Cabinetmaker, the, 38
Cable, 24
Cable coil, 516
Cable Crown with an Eye, 127
Cable Eye, 45 1
Cable grommet, 470
Cable or cable-laid rope, 23
Cable Short Splice, 43 3
Cable Splice, Murphy and Jeffers, 441
Cable stopper, 300
Cable Stopper Knot of six strands, 1 27
Cable tier, 516
Cable whipping, 548
Cackling, 540
Calf Knot, 2 20
Camel Hitch, 41, 77, 298
Camper and Canoeist, the, 38
Canvas binoculars case, 576
Canvas-covered pointing, 564
Canvas-covered strands, 25, 160
Canvas-covering manropes, etc., 539
Canvas duck, 22
Canvas mat, thrummed, 554
“Cape Ann” hammock, 59
Capping a shroud, 541
Capstan Knot, 308
Careening block, 524
Cargo nets, 352, 585
Cargo Slings Splice, 427
Carlsen, Arthur, 39, 415, 444
Carpenter, R. R. M., 56
Carpenter, the, 38
Carrick Bend, 139, 148, 261, 263, 363,
3 7 8 ; in netting, 5 85
Carrick Bend belt, 5 8 1
Carrick Loop, i 88
[608 l
Carrot, 565
Carry a partially filled sack, to, 327
Carryl, Charles Edward, 405
Cartman, the, 39
Cask Sling, 349
Cast, a, 5 1
Caterpillar Knot, 395
Catharpins, 533
Cat-o’ -nine -tails, 82, 580
Cat’s-Paw, 315, 349
Cat Stopper Knot, i 2 3
“Cattail” Multi-Strand Buttons.
176, 178, 179
Cat with seven tails, 580
Caulfield and Saward, 1 39
Cavils, 288
Centerboard pendant, 357
Center-Pole Hitch, 41
Chafing gear, 552-58
Chain and ring, 272, 300
Chain braid, 472
Chain “fork,” 473
“Chain Lightning” Splice, 439
Chain of hitches, 472
Chain shortening, 209
Chain Sinnets, 471-78
Chain Slip Knot, 308
Chain Splice, 469
Chain stitch, 472
Chair, lady’s, 351
Chair seat, rush bottom, 69
Chamber door knocker, 573
Chamier, Frederick, 1 1
Chandler, the, 38
Chapin, Joseph, 6
Characteristic Weaver’s Knot, a, 81
Check Knot, 274
Cheney, Louise Delano, 379, 380
Chest Beckets (see Beckets), end
papers
Chest becket bolt, 572
Chine hooks, 349
Chinese Butterfly Knot as a Lan-
yard Knot, 147, 148
Chinese Button, ioi, 102, 103, 104, 395
Chinese Button block covering, 356
Chinese Crown Knot, 388-89; of two
strands, 146
Chinese Crown Lanyard Knot,
Single-Strand, 97
Chinese Crown Loop, 192
Chinese firecrackers, 553
Chinese Frog Knot, 367
Chinese Knot, 139, 148, 151, 363, 378
Chinese lantern pendants, 397, 398
Chinese Priest Cord Knots, 3 7 8-- 8 2
Chinese priest cord tassel, 567
Chinese tassel, 359
Chinese Two-Cord Lanyard Knot
from four identical Half Knots, i 46
Chinese windlass, 334
“Chippet,” 6
Chock, 287
Chock ladder for bare feet, 591
Christopher, Melbourne, 413, 414
Cinch, Cincha, Latigo, Bellyband or
Girth Knot, 43, 272, 312
Circular Butterfly Lanyard Knot,
Single-Strand, 98
Circular Multi-Strand Buttons, i 74
INDEX
Circular Single-Strand Two-Plane
Lanyard Knot, 99
Circus Man, the, 40-41
Cleat for a chest becket, 572
Cleats, 283, 284, 285, 286, 287, 288, 321,
544* 572
Clew, 465, 543
Clew line block strap, 524
Climber, the, 42
Clinch, Inside, 205; Outside, 205, 269
Closed Loop, i 3
Closing cable, 23
Cloth cap, 565
Cloth-covered point, 564
Clothesbag, 576
Clothesbag lanyard, 576, 577
Clothesline fastening, 321
Clove Hitch, ii, 14, 18, 31, 32, 39, 40,
5 ** 5 6 * 57 . 6 4 > 68 * 7 °> 7 1 * 72 . 7 6 *
224, 290, 293, 301, 302, 337, 400, 401,
546; and other Crossing Knots, 2 1 3-
18; in bight, to a pile, 306; in netting,
585; snaking a, 518; “trick” methods
of tying, 408, 409
Clump block, 522
Coachwhipped Eye, 455
Coachwhipped point, 564
Coachwhipped yoke rope, 583
Coachwhipping, 228, 231, 232, 496
Cobbler, the (see Bootmaker), 42
CoCKSCOMBING (See RlNGBOLT I IlTCHlNG)
Codfish hook, 52
Codfish sinker, 56
Codfish trawl, 48, 49
Cohansey Creek, 6
Coils, 70, 512-17
Collar and Eye, 452
Collins and Aikman Corp., 80
Colors sent aloft in stops, 341
Comb cleat, 544
Commercial handbag, 577
Commercial Ring Hitching, 571
Commercial stake adjustment, 304
Common Bend, 262
Common grooved ladder rung, 592
Common knife lanyards, 578
Common Knot, 89, 220
“Common or Garden Knot,” 220
Common Shroud Knot, 276
Common Sin net, 489
Common whipping, 546
Compact hitches to spars, 292
Composite cleat, 286
Concealed shoelace tie, 3 3 1
Concealing ends in decorative lan-
yards, 142
Concluding lines, 591, 592
Constrictor Knot, 25, 34, 57, 58, 59,
60, 62, 70, 216, 225, 400, 546, 592
Cont Splice, 465
Cook, the, 4 1
Cooper, the, 42
Copy knot diagrams, 2, 22
Cord, 2 2
Corded rope, 24
Cork board, 2 1
Corkscrew Bar, 400
Cork secured in bottle, 60
Corned Beef and Salt Pork Knots,
3 6 * 37 * 3 8
Cornell, John B., 409
Com-husk rugs, 553
Correct an error in a knot, to, 26
Cotton Broker’s Hitch, 336
Cotton cord for square knotting, 20, 21
Counterweight for a gate or door, 333;
for sinnet making, 502
Countryman’s Knot, 290
Coventry Dress Tie, 384
Covering blocks, 522
Covering for ring or grommet, 360
Coverings for balls and knobs, 353, 360
Cowboy’s Pretzel Knot, 371
Cow Hitch, ii, 14, 216, 290, 305, 336
Crabber’s Eye Knot, 324
Crab net, 586
Crate Sling, 349
Cravat Knot, 385
Cringle, 69
Cringles around thimbles, 467; finished
off on crown, 467; through boltrope,
466; with ends backed, 466; without
thimbles, 466
Crochet stitch, 472
Crossed lashing, 343
Cross-gartering, 299, 331
Cross-Grafted Shroud Knots, 275
Cross -Grafting, 231, 334
Crossing Hitch, on post, 306
Crossing Knot, 40, 59, 213-18, 337, 339;
and rung, 592; in the bight, over a
stake, 2 1 4; through posts, 2 1 8
Crossing turns, 541
Cross-Lashed Sling, 300
Cross-lashed strap, 299
Cross-Lashing, 535
Cross of a cable, 1 3
Cross pointing, 231, 498, 499, 564, 664
Cross sections of Multi-Strand Stop-
per Knots, 135
Cross seizings, 541
Cross stitches, 560
Cross-turn lashing, 535
Cross whipping, 427
Crotch, to, iour-strand ropes, 425;
three-strand ropes, 425
Crowfoot a reef point, to, 559
Crowfoot at the tops, 533; for awn-
ings, etc., 533; for stays, 533
Crown, to tie a, 1 30
Crown, to, a cable, 127; an anchor, 537
Crown and Diamond, i 2 5
Crown and Double Matthew Wal-
ker, 124
Crown and Double Wall, i 26
Crown and Lanyard Knot, 124
Crown and Star Knot, i 36
Crown and Wall mat, 554
Crowned mat, 554
Crown Sinnet fenders, 556
Crown Sinnet, 478-83, 497; with two
sets of strands, 483
Crown Whipping, 547
Crow’s-Feet, 271
Crow’s-Foot, 40; from Furttenbach,
533; to shorten slings, 315
Cube-Shaped Diamond Knot, 131
Cubic Shroud Knot, 282
Cuckold’s Neck, 543
Cuff links, 179
Cul de Porc, 1 1
Cul de Porc avec Tete de Mort, n
Cunningham, Dr. John H., 413, 414
Curtain holdbacks, 202, 568
Cut, to, a Sheepshank, 412; a strand,
427; out core in splicing, 428; rope,
19* 25
Cut Splice, 464; seized, 543
Cutter stay deadeye, 534
Cutter-turned deadeye, 436
Cutting block strap, 524
“Cutting off the chair knob,” 421
“Cutting the fingers,” 420
Cylinder for tying Turk’s-Heads, 2 1
Cylindrical covering, 359
Daisy Knot, 168
Dana, Richard H., Jr., 1 1, 599
Da Vinci, Leonardo, 232
Davit of a whaleboat with horn cleat,
286
Day, Dr. Cyrus L., 353, 499
Deadeye and Lanyard Hitch, 71
Deadeye collar, 534
Deadeye Hitch, 44
Deadeyes, 534, 535; and lanyards, 535
Dead man, 328
Deck buckets, 119, 575
Deck cleat, 287
Deck lashings, 345
Deck stopper, 117, 300, 583
Decoy duck, foot strap or thong for,
7 1
Delay Knot, 274
Department-Store Loop, i 87
Derrick arm, block lashing, 544
Devil splices a hair, 462
Diagrams of knots, 28
Diagram, to trace a, 2 2
Diamond Hitch, Double, 68; Single, 67
Diamond Knot, 68, 121, 132, 133; and
block strap, 126; as a Multiple
Bend, 270; Crowned, 126; Doubled
in manner of Knife Lanyard Knot,
134; “herringboned” surface, 134;
Single-Stranb, 1 41; Two-Strand,
140; Two-Strand, lengthened, 141
Diamond-pattern fringe, 584
Diamond Shroud Knot, 280
Diamond Sinnet Knot, i 35
Diamond Spool Sinnet, 476
Dibden, Charles, 461
Diderot’s Single Carrick Bend, 264
Diploma Knot, 223
Dip net, 65, 586
Disentangling scissors, 424
Ditty bags and lanyards, 576, 577
Dog leash, 581
Dog Pointing, 462
Dogshank, 1 1
Dolphin, 555
Door mats, 554
Dory tackle, 49, 527
Double Bastard Weaver’s Knot, 79
Double becket block, 522
Double Becket Hitch, 52, 82, 316
Double beckets, 572
Double bitts, 287, 288
Double Blackwall Hitch, 314
Double Bowknot, 2 2 1
[ 609 ]
INDEX
Double Cat’s-Paw, 74
Double chest beckets, 572
Double Crown and Diamond Knot, i 2 5
Double Crown and Matthew
Walker Knot, i 24
Double Crown and Single Wall
Knot, i 24
Double Crown Knot in a single cord,
389
Double Diamond Knot, i 2 2
Double Diamond Shroud Knot, 280
Double English Knot, 50, 80; hitched,
80
Double Figure-Eight Knot, 63
Double Footrope Knot, 122
Double Foundation Sinnet, 478
Double Full Matthew Walker
Knot, 13 i
Double gangings, 57
Double Genoese Bar, 401
Double Half Knot, 58
Double Harness Loop, 54
Double Loops, 199, 200, 201
Double Loop Splice, 464
Double Marling Hitch, 518
Double Matthew Walker Knot, i i 8
Double mesh net, 586
Double Overhand Knot, 51, 55
Double pendant block, 525
Double Polish Weaver’s Knot, 78
Double purchase, 526, 531, 532
Double racking seizings, 541, 543
Double racking turns, 541
Double reef points, 55 1
Double Ring Hitch, 14
Double Ring Hitching, 569
Double sailor’s stitch, 560
Double Sheet Bend, 78, 262, 265, 274;
Toggled, 272
Double shell connection, 273
Double Shoestring Knot, 2 2 1
Double Shroud Knots, 276, 277, 278,
279, 280
“Double Single” Matthew Walker
Knot, 131
Double Sinnet Reef Points, 3 1 8
Double Sinnet robands, 3 1 8
Double Slip Knot, 2 2 1
Double Spanish burton, 528
Double Square Loop Sinnet, 474
Double Strap Hitch, 294
Double strapped block, 522
Double tail block, 552
Double tail block lashing, 299
Double Tatted Bar, 401
Double Tatted Chain, 401
Double threefold purchase, 530
Double Twofold Overhand Bend, 261
Double Wall Knot, 117, 140
Double Wall Shroud Knot, 278
Double Weaver’s Knot, 78, 262
Doughnut, 89
Dragon Fly, 395
Draw buckets, 575
Draw up knots, to, 18
Drawer pulls, 574
Drawing Bend, 267
Drawing Knot, 340
Drawing Splice (Cable), 434
Drawknot or Half Bowknot, 62, 82,
221
Drayman’s Knot, 43
Dressmaker, the, 43
Drew, James M., 43, 423
Drilling wire cable spliced to Manila
cable, 444
Dropper Flies, 51
Dropper Fly or Snell Hitch, 55
Dry rope, to, 29
Dry Weather Hitch, 40
Duck-bill pliers, 2 1 , 426
Duck, canvas, 22
Duco cement, 22, 28
Du Pont, Eugene E., 131, 302, 357, 408
Du Pont, Mrs. E. E., 387
Dutch Cringle, 467
Earing Cringle, 468; early, 465
Eighteenth-century ladder, 592
Elastic span, 53
Elbow in cable, 1 3
Electrician, the, 44
Electric Lineman, the, 44
Elliot’s Eye, 452
Ellipse tied with a cord, 418
Elliptical Sinnet, 480, 494, 495
Elusive Knot, an, 414
Emerald Knot, i 3 3
Emerson, Ralph Waldo, 319
End (of a rope), 13
End, tail, or drag fly, 5 1
End seizing, 541
English Cringle, 467
English Knot, 80, 259; Double, 259
Englishman's Knot, 56, 259, 387
Englishman’s Knot or Loop, im-
proved, 187, 189
Englishman’s Loop, i 89
English Shroud Knot, 276, 278
English Sinnet, 489
Equilateral Triangular Sinnet, 7,
481, 501
Eskimo Bowstring Knot, i 87
Eskimo Loop, i 87
Eskimo spear lashing, 224
Espalier Knot, 58
Ess or S Hook, 273, 320
Euphroe block, 40, 525
Expend a lanyard, to, 536
Experimental Eyes, 446, 447
Eye, 445-60; for a flatted hook, 53;
Backhanded Ring Splice, 454; in a
single strand, 453; in braided cord,
456; in sinnet, 458; of jib sheets, 535
Eye blocks, 522
Eye hooks, 52
Eyelet holes, to make, 558
Eyelets, 69
Eye seizing, 541
Eye Splice, 32, 43, 71, 445; anatomy of
the, 446; and toggle, 62; Darcy
Lever’s, 445; in banding, 456; in
bight, 454; in the bight, 416; in sash
cord, 457; start for lashing, 336;
Two-Strand, 542; weakens rope, 449
Eye tackle, 527
Eye to Eye, 269, 3 1 7
Fairing strands before tying, 25
Fair-leaders, 287, 544
[ 610 ]
F alconer, the, 44
Fall secured to a block cheek, 523
False braid, 417
False Knot, 1 1 , 220
False Lover’s Knot, 372
“Fancy” Eye, 455
Fancy knots, 383-98
Farmer, the, 44, 45, 46
Farmer’s Halter Loop, 187
Farmer’s Hitch, 305
Farmer’s Loop, 191,412
F armer’s Short Splice, 42 7
F arrier, the, 47
Fencer, the, 47
Fenders, 555-58
Fiador Knot, 43, 201
Fid, 19, 20, 22
Fid block, 524
Fiddle block, 524
Fighting stopper, 535
F igure-Eight Bend, Double, 2 59
F igure-Eight Chain, 484
Figure-eight flakes and coil, 517
Figure-Eight Hitch, 290, 316; and
round turn, 290
Figure-Eight Knot, 7, 34, 50, 51, 56,
63, 68, 85, 86, 371, 382; Double, 85;
in the bight, 87; Multiple, Single-
Strand, 95; Slipped, 87, 308; to tie
with one hand, 407; tied in doubled
end, 87
Figure-Eight Knot “Chain,” 94
Figure-Eight Lanyard Knot, Single^
Strand, 97
Figure -eight lashing, 271
Figure-Eight Loop, Double, 197
Figure-Eight Mohair Knot, 80
Figure-Eight Noose, 204
Figure-eight seizing turns, 541
Figure-Eight Sinnet, 484
Figure-Eight Timber Hitch, 290
“Fingering the Nose,” 419
Finger rings of gold wire, 388
Finishing off seizings, 68, 327, 542
Fire-bucket bails, 575
Fire buckets, 1 1 9
Fire-Escape Knot, 47, 62, 72, 94
Fireman, the, 47
Fireman’s ax, to sling, 47
Fireman’s coil, 514
Fireman’s Knot, 416
Fish, to string, 48
Fisherman, the, 48
Fisherman’s, Waterman’s, or Eng-
lishman’s Loop, 49, 50
Fisherman’s Bend, ii, 13, 289, 309, 314:
and Bowline, 296, 309; and Half
Hitch, 296; and Two Half Hitches,
296; to chain cable, 271
Fisherman’s coil, 515
Fisherman’s fender, 555
Fisherman’s litter, 49, 70
Fisherman’s Loop, 189
Fishing spars, 343
Fishing tackle and fishing gear, 56
Fishline needlework basket, 562
Fishline Pointing, 563
Fishline Splice, 57
Fishline to a ring hook, to secure, 22
Fish scale fringe, 584
INDEX
Fish tackle, 529
Flagpole Slings, 74
Flagstaff Knot, 324
Flail Knot from Bristol Co., Mass.,
45; from Chester Co., Pa., 45; from
Diderot (1762), 45
Flake, 5/5, 516
Flat belt, 581
Flat decorative boat fender, 379
Flat Forked Loop, 372
Flat four-strand lanyards, 378
Flat Knife Lanyard Knot, 378
Flat Knot, 220, 327, 352; of two loops,
372
Flat knotted tassel, 568
Flat Lanyard Knot, 139, 148, 376;
from two Overhands, 146
Flat or Two-Dimensional Knots,
361-82
Flat Pendant Knots, 374, 375, 376
Flat rung, 591
Flat seam, 560
Flat seizing, 541, 542
Flat Sinnet, 489; alternate method,
489; of flat thongs, 489; of five
strands, 489; of seven strands, 489;
with doubled edges, 492; with dou-
ble parallel strands, 489; with odd
number of strands, 489
Flat Sinnet Terminal Knot, Single-
Strand, 95
Flat Square Lanyard Knot, 145
Flatted hooks or “tad hooks,” 52
Flat watch guard, 582
Flat whistle lanyard, 148
Flavel t Mattie , 7
Flemish Bend, 258
Flemish down, to, 5 1 7
Flemish Eye (i), (2), 447
Flemish flake, 516, 554; elliptical, 516
Flemish Knot, 85
Flemish Loop, 190
Flexible wire needle, 2 1
Float or bob, 56
Florist’s Knot, 58
Flounder dredges, 585
Flower forms of silk-covered wire, 395
Fly, 46
Fly, carriage whip, 322
Fly driver, 545
Foil button of twine, 47
Foil handle, hitched over, 47
Football lacing, 58
Footrope Knot, 122; Derivatives, 133,
134; Doubled in the manner of the
Knife Lanyard Knot, 134; Two-
Stranded, 141, 143
Footrope Knot fender, 557
Footropes, 550
Footrope variation, 124
Foot Stopper or Boom Stopper Knot,
469, 519
F oot strap or thong, 7 1
Forestay collar, 543
Forestay Eye, 452
Forestay lanyards, 536
Forestay strap, 534
Forked or Splayed Loops, 193, 199, 200
Fork Splice with Lashing Eyes (i),
<*).4P
Foul hawse, 13
Four-by-threc tackle, 526, 531, 532
Fourfold purchase, 526, 531, 532
Fourfold tackle, 526
Four-in-Hand Necktie, 385
Four-Lead Diamond Knot of two
strands, 142
Four leg lashing, 342
Four-Loop Sinnet, 474; Doubled, 474
Four-Ply Knot, Single-Strand, 96
Four-Strand Backhanded Eye, 449
Four-Strand Backhanded Short
Splice, 430
Four-Strand Full or Double Mat-
thew Walker, i 2 1
Four-Strand Jib Stay Eye, 448
Four-Strand Lanyard Knot, 536
Four-Strand Long Splice, 440
Four-Strand Over-and-Under Splice,
429
Four-strand rope, 23, 24
Four-Strand “Short Splice,” Over
One and Under Two, 430
Four-Strand Side Splice, 468
Four-Strand Single Matthew
Walker, 121
Four-Strand Square Sinnet, Captain
Smith’s method, 496
Fourth-Dimensional Knot, 415
Fox, ordinary, 550
Fox, Spanish, 550
Frapping turns, 342, 345, 541
French coil, 516
French Cringle, 467
French flake, 516, 517
French garland, 544
French Masthead Knot, 212
French Shroud Knots, 276, 277; Cap-
tain Smith’s, 277; Double, 276, 278
French Sinnet, 490; “braid trade”
method, 490
French Sinnet chains, 473
French Sinnet mat, 36 6
French Sinnet Ringbolt Hitching,
5 6 9, 570
French Whipping, 547
Friction in knots, 17
Fringe making, 65
Fringe of Fourfold Overhand Knots,
584
Frog Knots or Frogs, 367, 371, 372,
, 374, 376
Fruiterer, the, 58
Full Carrick Bend, 261, 263
Full Matthew Walker, 118
Furling lines, 513
Fuzzy rope, 25
Gaff, homemade, 49
Gaff Topsail Halyard Bend, 291
Gallows Knot, 204
Game bag, 576
Game secured across a saddle, 72
Gammoning, 545
Ganging Knot, 48
Garden hose, 59
Gardener, the, 58
Garland, 544
Garrotte, La, 419
Gearshift lever knob covering, 357
[ 61 1 ]
General Utility Knot, 18
General Utility Splice, 427
Ghiordes Knot, 69
Gibbet Knot, 205
Gidley, Charles R., 79, 259
Gift Knot, 386
Girl Scout Hitch, 70, 224
Girth Knot, 312
Gold wire knots, 388
Gondola mooring hook, 321
Goose boot and hobble, 44, 71
Gouty rope, 24
Grafted becket, 573; Turk’s-Head at
bottom, 573
Grafted block, 521
Grafted dolphin, 555
Grafted Eye, 455
Grafted fender, 558
Grafted harpoon mounting, 571
Grafted Point, 563
Grafted Shroud Knots, 275
Grafting, 434
Granny Knot, ii, 18, 37, 75, 220, 258-
401; as a Mesh Knot, 585; capsized
into Two Half Hitches, 410
Grant, Captain George H., 205
Grapevine Knot, 50, 259
Grapevine service, 540
Grass Bend, 269
Grass Knot, 46
Gray, “Mickey,” 40
Grease horn, 19
Grecian Shroud Splice (i), (2), 434
Greenslet, Ferris, 55
Grip, of a bow, 32
Gripes and gripe lanyards, 343
Grommet, 66, 69, 226, 469; capsized,
470; Common, 470; for a deep-sea
lead, 318; from a strand of Manila,
470; of Round Sinnet, 248, 249, 470;
of wire rope, 470; spliced, 470
Grommet beckets, 572
Grommet drawer handle, 574
Grommet Eye Splice, 454
Grommet fender, 558
Grommet hanks, 520
Ground-Line Hitch, 48, 49, 224, 291
Ground trawl, 57
Gunner’s Knot, 149
Gun tackle, 526
Gut Knot, 50, 5 1 , 259
Guy for a shears, 342
Hairpin, 21
Hackamore, 43, 201, 208
Haley, “Frenchy,” 40
“Half a crown,” 543
Half Bowknot, 221
Half Hitch, 14, 51, 68, 81, 216, 283,
295, 308; seized, 295; to hook, 314
Half Hitched Clove Hitch, 305
Half Hitched Half Hitch, 295
Half hitched lashing, 535
Half hitched rungs, 592
Half Hitches and stopped end, 298
Half Hitching, 518
Half Knot, 14, 71, 74, 81, 216, 220,
400, 401; in fringe work, 584
Half Knot Grafting, 563
Half mast hoops, fisherman’s,
Half Round Sin net, 494
Half Sheepshank, 44
Half thimble, 43
Halter* Hitch, 44, 305, 308
Halter of jute, 320
Halter snap hook, 320
Hammer, to sling a, 38, 39
Hammock, knitted, 589
Hammock anchor, 322
Hammock clews, 588
Hammock Hitches, 309, 589
Hammock Maker, The, 59
Hammocks, 587
“Hand chair,” 388
Handcuff, Sheepshank, 210
Handcuff Knot, 36, 66, 206, 208, 371
Handy-billy, 527
Hanging picture to brick wall, 61
Hanging large game, 72
Hangman’s Knots, 36, 59, 204, 205
Hanks, 226, 512
Harbor gaskets, 513, 551
Hard Knot, 220
Hard-laid rope, 24
Harness Bend, 80, 267; Double, 260
Harness-chain anchor, 40
Harness Loop, 32, 70, 87, 190; capsized,
190; Double, 190
Harness-room counterweight, 322
Harper's Magazine y 6
Harpoon, whale, to mount a, 334
Harrington, Eugene S., 79, 262
Hat Sinnet, 488
Hauling a boat, lashing for, 351
Hawse block or plug, 92
Hawser, 23
Hawser Bends, 264
Hawser Bowline Knot, 186
Hawser Eye, 451
Hawser-laid rope, 24
Hawser Short Splice, 433
Hawser Thimble Eye, 451
Head earing, 465; to pass a, 545
Head halter, 322
Head or Earing Cringle, 468
Heart, eighteenth -century, 534; of
whalebone, 534
Heart and throat seizing, 434
Heart lashing, bowsprit, 536
Hearts, 534
Heaver, 22, 329, 443
Heaving-down block, 524
Heaving-down post, 328
Heaving-down tackle, 530
Heaving-Line Bend, 265
Heaving-Line Knot, from a coil, 89;
“Hangman’s,” 88; Martha’s Vine-
yard boat, 88; “Mauretania,” 89;
Norfolk Boat, 88; “Over-and-Un-
der,” 89
Heaving strands in splicing, 330; with
marlingspike, 425; with pliers, 425
Helical (continuous) crowning, 482
“Helical” Sinnets, 504
Herringboned Shroud Knot, 281
Herringbone stitch, 560
Herwig Co., P. C., 20
Hickory toggle, 92
Hide Scotchmen, 558
INDEX
High Post Hitch, 305; tied in bight,
305
Hinsdale, F. Gilbert, 64, 77, 79
Hinsdale, Mrs. F. Gilbert, 34
Hitch, 12, 13, 284; to a cone, 324; to a
double line, 298; to a ladder, 333;
to a stanchion, 332; to cylinder,
lengthwise pull, 334; to eye of hook,
321; with pull from two directions,
298
Hitched Bowline Knot, 186
Hitched end, 562
Hitched eyelet holes, 559
Hitched fender, 556
Hitched Loop, 222
Hitched mat, 368
Hitches, old whale-iron, 4 66; to mast,
rigging, and cable (lengthwise pull),
297-300; to spar and rail (right-angle
pull), 289-96; to stake and post, pile
and bollard, 301-06
“Hitches,” the, 82, 445
Hobble Knot, 43
Hodge, Paul Rapsey, 1 1
“Hog backing,” 569
Hog bristle spliced to thread, 436
Hogshead Slings, 74, 349
Hoisting casks, 318
Hoisting spar with double strap, 299,
300
Hoist rope, of pile driver, 220
Holdfasts, miscellaneous, 319
Homemade baseballs, 559
Honda, side spliced end, 455
Honda Knot, 4^, 1 87, 205
Honda (Eye) Splice, 454
Hook and eye, 272, 315
Hook and Stopper Knot, 315
Hook block, 521, 522
Hook Hitches, 313
Hooks, beckets, and toggles, 313-18
Hook tackle, 527
Hoop fastenings, 42
Horn cleat for davit tackle, 286, 287
Horsehair rope, 23
Horse hitched by a rein, 60; hitched
by a weight, 60
Horseshoe Splice, 465
Horse’s tail, to knot or tie up a, 333
Hot-water bottle, 60
Houdini, 6
House painter, the, 60
Housewife, the, 60
Howland, Waldo, 413, 420
Hunter’s Bend, 261
Ice and Trap Fishing, 57
Ice bag, 57j
Ice pick, 2 1
Ichabod Knot, 205
Idiot’s Delight (i), (2), 477; flattened,
477; round, 477
Impossible Knot, Single-Strand, 95
Insect Knots, 395
Insecure shackles, 423
Inside Clinch, 309
Inside tongs, 352
Interlocked Carrick Bends, 382
Interlocked ends, 271
Intermediate Single-Strand Stopper
Knot, 85
Intertwined Bars, 402
Invisible (Yarn) Splice, 435
Invisible stitch, 560
Irish Splice, 461
Iron bollards, 288
Iron cup. for a skylight adjustment, 312
Iron hanks, 520
Iron ring stopper, 92
Iron shroud cleat, 544
Iron strapped bull’s-eyes, 536
Irregular Triangular Sinnet, 478
Italian marline, 21
Jacob’s Ladder, 591; with two beckets,
59 1
Jambe de Chien, i i
James, Will, 6, 43, 413
Jammed hitch in a block, 325
Jamming Bend, 266
Jamming Hitch, 325
Japanese Bend, 260
Japanese Knot, 402; with two mar-
ginal loops, 391
Japanese Knot arrangement, 395
Japanese lantern lanyards, 403
Japanese Parcel Knot {see Gift Knot)
Jar Sling, 43, 46, 208, 410
Jear blocks, 544
Jess, 44
Jeweler, the, 61
Jib-boom guy lanyard, 536
Jib Sheet Eye, 455
Jib-Stay Eye, 448
Jigger, 527
Jig tackle, 527
Johnson, Dr. Samuel, 335
Joining ends of Square Sinnet, 578
Joining two wires, 273
Josephine Knot, 34, 148, 270, 378
Jug or J ar Sling, 43, 46, 208, 327, 410
Jug Sling as a Bag Knot, 327; as a
Frog, 372
Jumper Hitch, 41
Jumpsurgee block, 521
Jury bicycle tire, 330
Jury Mast Knot, 207, 212, 412
Kackling or keckling, 518, 540, 569
Keg buoy, 538
Kevels, 288
Key guards, 581, 582
Key ring, 320
Kill eg, Kellig, Kellagh, Kellick,
KiLLocK,or Killick Hitch, 32,48, 294
Kinds of rope or cordage, 22, 23
Kipping’s Head Earing Cringle, 468
Kit, 575
Kite flying, 62
Knettles or nettles, 550
Knife, 21
Knife Lanyard Knot, ioi, 141, 191,
397; Double, 141
Knife Lanyard method of tying
Chinese Button Knot, ioi
Knife or whistle lanyards, 579
Knife sheath, 561
Knight’s Wire Short Splice, Admiral,
443
Knittles, 226, 550
Knob, 12; for swing door, 474
Knob coverings, various shapes, 359
[ 612 ]
INDEX
Knob Knots, Multi-Strand Buttons,
tied in hand, 155-64; tied on the
table, 165-84; Multi-Strand Lan-
yard Knots, 129-38; Multi-Strand
Stopper or Terminal Knots, 115-
28; Single-Strand Button Knots,
1 01 -1 4; Single-Strand Lanyard
Knots, 93-100; Single-Strand Stop-
per or Terminal Knots, 83-92;
Two-Strand Lanyard Knots, i 39—
54
Knobs for chest beckets, 572
Knot, 12; for a cystic duct, 75; for
a scuttle lift, 574
Knot coverings, 353-60
Knot diagrams, 28
Knot shortening, 209
Knots in general, 1-30; in home dec-
oration, 395; of parti-colored silk
wire, 395; to tailpiece of musical in-
strument, 322
Knotted bathing ladder, 590
Knotted drawnwork fringes, 584
Knotted Eye for drawer pull, 574
Knotted Strap Hitch, 294
Knotting, a bandage, 61; a ring to a
single cord, 422
Knowles, Hope, 9, 357, 587
Knowles, Mrs. Charles S., 221
Knowles, Mrs. Thomas, 266
Lace line, 519
Lace, to, a belt drive, 273; riding
breeches, 331; sail to mast, 520; shoes
and boots, 33:; ski and skating boots,
331; staysails, 520
Ladder, of four ropes, 592 ; eighteenth-
century, 592
Ladies’ ladders, 546
Lair rope, 339
Lang-Laid Rope Splice, 443
Lantern cords, 374
Lantern lanyards, 397, 398
Lanyard Hitch, 44, 290, 528
Lanyard Knot, 68; Crowned, 160;
early, 119; greenhorn’s or lubber’s
method, 120; Multi-Strand, 129-38;
ordinary seaman’s method, 120;
orthodox method, 120; proper, 119;
Single-Strand, 93-100; Turkish,
144; Two-Strand, 139-54
Lanyard seizing, 542
Lanyard stuff, 20, 2 1
Lanyards with wire rigging, 537
Lariat Noose, 205
Lariat rope, 24
Lark’s Head, i i
Larson, William A., 454, 467, 469
Lash game to tote pole, to, 72
Lashing, a cargo block, 299; a hook
block, 315; a pack, 66; a patient, 65;
a selvagee strap, 299
Lashing Eye, Rigger’s, 451
Lashings and slings, 335-52
Lashing thimble, 534
Lasso Noose, 205
Latchings or latchets, 40, 334
Latigo Knot, 43, 312
Lawn tennis net, 586
“Law of the Common Divisor.” 233
Lay, effect of on security, 17
Laying out nettles, 550
Laying rope, 23
Laying up the ends of rope, 30
Lead between knots in a lanyard, 152,
*53
Leader, 51
Leader Loop, 50
Lead jammed in the block, 325
Lead-Line Eye Splice, 445
Lead-Line Hitch, 3 1 1
Lead to a pin or cleat, 285
Leash, for a large dog, 581; for three
brace of hounds, 71; of twelve
strands, 581
Leather strap to a ring, 212
Leather tassel, 568
Leather washers and collars, 128
Le Blanc, H., 383
Leech-rope stopper, 545
Left-Hand Bowline, 188, 303
Left-Hand Eye Splice, 69
Left-Hand Half Knot, 220
Left-Hand Sheet Bend, 17, 34, 79, 262,
3 2 4
Left-hand turn around pin, 285
Left-laid rope, 17
Lever, Darcy, 1 1, 85
Lever’s Bend, 265
Lever’s Eye Splice, 445
Life preservers, 580
Lifting with Spanish windlass, 229
Ligature Knot, 221
Ligature or Surgeon’s Knot, 75
Limber rope, 23
Line, 24
Lineman’s Loop, 44, 54, 191
Lineman’s seizing, 543
Lineman’s Whipping, 44, 548
Linen cord and rope, 20, 22
Line tub, fringed cover, 584
Link Sinnet, 481
Link Sinnet Knot, 135
Link Splice, 469
Link worming, 539
Little, E. N., 89
Lizard trap, 334
Loaded quirt, 580
Loading an automobile, 33
Lobster Buoy Hitch, 14, 295, 309
Locket Lanyard, 578
Lock Knot, 324
Log and spar booms, 346
Loggerhead, 287
Log Line Splice, 433
Logoda, 6
Log raft lashing, 346
Long and Short Splices (Multi-
Strand Bends), 425-44
Long Basket Weave Knot, 364
Long-billed pliers, 21
Long Cable Splice, Bushell, 441
Long Eye, 445
Long flake, 5 1 7
Long Hawser Splice, 439
Long- jawed rope, 24
Long-laid rope, 24
Long Rolling Splice, 433
Long Running Eye, 294, 345, 445
Long Running Hitch, 55, 311
[613]
Long Short Splice, 428
Long Splices, 438-44; in right- and
left-laid rope, 431; ordinary, 438;
three-strand to four-strand, 440;
ways of tucking, 438
Long tackle, 527
Look, Captain Daniel C., 64
Look, Captain James, 64
Loom Harness Knot, 308
Loop, 12; decorative, 188, 190; in wire
end, 61
loop and button fastening, 1 14, 577
Loop buttoner, 21
Loop Knot, 13, 50, 54, 76, 186, 336;
Double, Multiple, 193-202; Single,
185-92
Loop lashing, 271
Loop Ring Hitching, 571
Loop Sinnet, 475, 476
Loose Hitches of one or more turns,
295, 2 9<5
Loot of Peiping, 382
Lorn Knot, 50
Lower, to, a basket, 347; oneself from
a pole, 41 1 ; oneself over a precipice,
406
Lucas, Dr. F. A., 1 18, 461
Luce’s Deck Stopper Knot, 136
Luff tackle, 526, 531
Luff upon luff, 528
Lumberman’s Knot, 290
Macrame, 399, 404
Macrame Knot, 400
Made block, 521
“Made” Cringles, 4 66
Made Eye, 49, 457
Magical Knots, 416
Magner’s Hitch, 14, 265, 292, 298
Magnus Hitch, 14, 60, 77, 216, 223,
265, 292, 298, 304, 41 1
Maiden’s Eye, 448
Mailing tube for Turk’s-Head tying,
21
Mail nets, 585
Mainmast fair-leader, 288
Mainsheet bitt, with oak cleat, 287
Mainsheet cleat, 287
Mainsheet Eye, 455
Mainstay secured to Samson post, 536
Making fast, 283-88
Manger Hitch, 44, 308
Man Harness Knot, 32
Man - o’- W ar Sheepshank, 21 i
Manrope Knot, 76, 82, 156; confused
with Turk’s-Head, 160; “lead fol-
lowed above,” 156; “lead followed
below,” 156; with reversed crown,
*57
Manropes, 583
Manrope stanchions, of white whale-
bone, 583
Manta, 339
Manwayring, Sir Henry, 185, 257, 289,
47 *
Mariners’ Museum, 6, 455, 512, 571
Mariner’s Splice, 82, 435, 441, 442, 453;
Luce’s, 441 ; Manual of the Sea , 441 ;
Murphy and Jeffers, 441 ; simplified,
442
INDEX
Marl a sail, to, 519
Marline Bend, 268, 437
Marline Hitch, 72, 336
Marline Hitch and Half Hitch, 267
Marline hitched rungs, 592
Marling Hitching, 518
Marling seizings, 519, 541
Marlingspike, 1 9, 20, 2 1
Marlingspike Hitch, ii, 68, 92, 216,
217. 3°3* 3 ! 4* 33°» 34*
Marlingspike lanyard, 579
Marlingspike Lanyard Knot, 141
Marlingspike seamanship, decorative,
549-92; practical, 51 1-48
Marlingspike Service, 540
Marrying, 268, 425
Martyr, Peter, monument to, 1 1 9, 535
Masthead Knot, 207, 212, 372, 412
Mast hoop, iron, rope, wood, 520
Materials for knotting, 20, 21, ?.2
Mat Knots, 361-82
Matthew Walker, 7
Matthew Walker Knot, 82, 536; able
seaman's method, 1 19; Crowned,
160; Four-Strand, hi; lubber’s or
greenhorn’s method, 118; Multi-
Strand Method, 1 3 1 ; ordinary sea-
man’s method, 119; simplified method,
130; Two-Strand, 140, 192; Two-
Strand, tied horizontally, 145
Matthew Walker Loop, 191
Matthew Walker Shroud Knot, 281
Matthew Walker’s Knot, i i 8
Mayo, Dr. C. W., 75
Mechanical Binder Knot, 45
Medallions, 376
Mesh Knot, 64, 586; Martha's Vine-
yard method, 64
Mess buckets, 119
Mess bucket bails, 575
Messenger strap with Spritsail Sheet
Knot, 271
Mess-kid, 583
Mess table pendants, 583
Metal clipped nets, 585
Metal straps on scuttle butt lashing,
?45
Middle seizing, 541
Midshipman's Hitch, 142, 187, 223,
296, 310, 325
Miller’s Knot, 62, 224
Miscellaneous holdfasts, 319-22
“Model” rope, to make, 70
Mohair, 79, 80
Mohair or Queensbury Knot, 81
Monkey chain, 209, 41 1, 472
Monkey braid, 472
Monkey's Fist, and other knot cover-
ings, 353-60; as a Lanyard Knot,
96; as a Heavinc-Line Knot, 89
Monkey’s Tail, 88; seized, 543
Monk's seam, 560
Mooring a boat to wharf side, 538
Mooring buoy of 1750, 538
Mooring Hitch, 217
Mooring Knot, 304
Mooring rope, 23
Morning Star, 4
Mors du Cheval, 374
Mortice block, 521
Mountain climber, the, 62, 63
Mouse and Collar, 452
Mouse, to, a hook, 315, 533; a stay, 555
Mud chains, 330
Muffled oars, 561
Mullins, Captain Daniel F., 5, 33, 120,
315, 446, 448, 460
Multiple Bends, 270
Multiple Overhand Knots, 84, 94
Multi-Strand Bends, 275, 425
Multi-strand knob coverings, 359
Multi-Strand Loops, 445-60
Multi-strand mats, 369
Multi-Strand Matthew Walker, i 3 1
Multi-strand rectangular mats, 370
Murphy, Dr. Robert Cushman, 358
Musician, the, 63
Nailed to the mast, 419
Napoleon Knot, 148
Narrow Turk’s-Head, to enlarge, 235,
239, 240
Nares' Five-Strand Eye Splice, 447
Navy hammock clew, 588
Navy Sheepshank, 2 1 1
Neck halter, 305, 320
Necklace with Button Knot pendant,
"4
Neckties, 384
Needle hitched pointing, 563
Needle hitching, 561
Needle stitches, 561
Needleworked swabs, 567
Net, decorative, 585
Net-Line Hitch, Clovelly, 224; Looe,
224
Net-Line Knot, Clovelly, 48; Looe,
48
Net maker, the, 64
Netted hammock, 589
Netted tennis ball bag, 587
Netting, 58 5
Netting needle, 22, 586
Netting Needle Sinnets, 484
Netting spool, 22
Nettles, 550
Nettle stuff, 550
New Bedford Port Society, 4
New Bedford »Vhaling Museum, 6,
404
Newgate Knot, 205
Nightstick, 580
Nip, 17
Nippering, 518
S ere, 66, 300
es, 550
Nceud Coulant, i 1
Nceud de Faux, i i
Nceud de Galere, i 1
Nceud Simple, ii
Noose, ii, 14, 74, 203-06; changed to
Clove Hitch, 409; Double, 206; tied
with one hand, 407
Noose Hitch, 305, 308
Noose Knot, 204
Nose twitch, 47, 225
Notation on a knot diagram, 28
Notch a rung, to, 592
Nun buoy strap, 538
Nurse, the, 65
O’Brien, William James, 40
Occasional knots, 323-34
Occupational knots, 31-82
Ocean plat, 149, 150, 362
Odd splices, 461-70
Dhrvall, Hjalmar, 232
Old-fashioned cleat, 286
“Old Granny Knot,” 220
Old sinnet fender, 557
One-hand methods of tying knots, 407
“One Hitch,” 74
One-Length Hitch, 40
One-Strand Splice, 463
Open a screw-top jar, to, 61
Openhand Knot, 65, 258
Open Loop, 13
Opposed Bars, 402
Ordinary Bend, 262
Ordinary Knot, 84, 220
Ordinary Sinnet, 489
Ordinary Whipping, 546
Oriental Bowstring Knot, 188
Oriental ladder trick, 424
Original bends, 264, 266
Original Hook Hitch, 314
Original knots, 26
Origin of Matthew Walker Knot,
1 1 8
Outside Clinch, 309; seized, 543
Outside tongs, 352
“Over and under,” 1 8
“Over-and-Under” Short Splice, 427
Overhand Bend, 45, 58, 78, 81, 224,
258, 174; in netting, 586
Overhand Frog Knot, 371
Overhand Loop, 190
Overhand Knot, ii, 14, 34, 43, 44, 52,
55» 5*> 57, 62, 70, 71, 72, 74, 82, 84,
85, 542; Doubled, 84; multifold, 84;
tied with one hand, 407; tied with
scissors, 418
Overhand Knot and Single Hitch,
284
Overhand Round Turn Grafting, 563
Overhand Round Turn Hitching, 557
Overhand Round Turn Pointing, 562
Oysterman's Stopper Knot, 7, 63, 86;
Double, 86
Pack, to make up a, 66, 339
Pack and carry a globular object, to,
333
Packer’s Knot, 37, 65
Packinc Knot, 337
Pajama Knot, ioi
Painted chest and tub covers, 584
Painting knot work, 583, 584
Palm, roping, 20, 22; seaming, 20, 22
Palm-and-needle whipping, 69, 547;
imitation of, 547
Pantograph, 2 1
Parachutist, the, 34
Parbuckle and skids, 329
Parcel Bend, 267
Parceling, 559
Parcel Knot, 222
Parcel tying, 336, 337; decorative, 395;
diagonal, 338
Party-colored wires, 374
Parts of a block, 52 1
[ 614 ]
INDEX
Parts of a hook, 533
Passenger landing basket, 351
Passing a nipper, 5 1 8
Passing a stopper, 165
“Patent” deadeyes, 541
Patented clothesline cleat, 32 1
Pearl Knot, 58, 61
Pectoral Knot, 154, 374
Peg and hole, 321
Pegging a Lanyard Knot, i 20
Pendant block, 525
Pendant block strap, 523
Pendant Hitch, 294
Pentecost, Captain E. H., 312
Perforated post, bight secured to, 332;
line secured to, 332
Permanent lead, 285
Permanent strap, 294
Perry, Manuel, 1 36, 245
Persian Knot, 69
Philadelphia Knot, 47, 72, 94, 416
Philadelphia Skating Club and Hu-
mane Society, 72
Phoebe Knot, 95
Picket-Line Hitch, 32, 224, 291
Pierce, Edward T., 78
Pigtail, 1 1 ; seized, 543
Pigtails on hooks, 565
Pile Hitch, 306
Pilot ladders, 591
Pilot ladder seizing, 545
Pinch cleat, 286
Pinha de Rosa, 159
Pinked leather washers, 572
Pin racks, 285
Pipe sling from Diderot, 349
Pirate and jolly boat, 424
Plain-laid rope, 23
Plain whipping, 546
Plank staging, 39
Plat Sin nets, 487-500
Platted lines and torsion, 487
Platted rings, 569
Pliers, 2 1
Poacher’s Knot, 65
Pointing, 562, 563, 564, 565
Points, 551
Police-Line Knot, 273
Policeman, 66
Policeman’s nippers or twisters, 225
Pompon, 568
Porter, the, 66
Porter’s Knot, 66
Portuguese Bowline, 193, 310; with
splayed loops, 193
Portuguese Whipping, 547
Pot Hitch, 70
Power of a tackle, 528
Precipice Knot, 62
Pretzel, to tie with one hand, 407
Pretzel Knot, 34, 371
Preventers, 545
Pricker, 20, 2 1, 22, 28
Priest Cord Knots, 378, 379, 380, 381,
3® 2 .
“Principle of the knot,” 17
Prolong Basket Weave Knot of a
single strand, to, 366
Prolonged Knot, 149, 362
Prolong Knot, 149, 150, 362, 363, 554
Prospector, the, 66
Pudding an anchor ring, 555
Pudding fender, 555
Pulling stumps and posts, 328
Punch mat, 488, 554
Purse mold, 473
Push tacks, 2 1
Puzzles and tricks, 405-24
Quadruple tackle, 526
Quarter-Pole Hitch, 40
Quarter tackle, 527
Queensbury Knot, 81
Queue, rattail, 565; sinnet, 565
Quilter, the, 68
Quipus, 96
Quirt lash or snapper, 580
“Rabbit in the Hole,” 413
Rack bar, 346
Racked turns, 517
Racking Bend, 265
Racking Hitch, 315
Racking seizings, 543
Racking turns, 518, 541
Rafter lashing, African, 215
Rafting water casks, 317
Railroad Sinnet, 552, 553
Ram’s-head cleat, 287
Ratline stuff, 20, 2 1
Rattail, 565
Rattling down, 546
Rawhide auirt, 580
Razor blade knife, 580
Reef Becket Eye, 469
Reef beckets, 552
Reef earing, to pass, 545
Reef, or Square Knot, 31, 66, 73, 75,
258, 542; half hitched, 258
Reef Knot fringe, 18, 65, 220
Reef Pendant Hitch, 298
Reef points, 69, 537
Reef tackle block, 525
Reef Tackle Cringles, 466
Reeving a lanyard, 537
Reeving Eye, 448
Reeving-Line Bend, 221, 265
Reeving-Off Bend, 268
“Reeving off” rigging, 29
Regular Knot, 220
Regular Octagon, to make, 418
Regular Pentagon, to make, 418
Regular Pentalpha, to make, 418
Reins hitched to whip, 60
Remove a button, to, 424
Remove a circular cord from the arm,
to, 423
Remove a lashing, to, 340
Remove a string from the buttonhole,
to, 42 1
Remove cord from a card, to, 424
Remove cord from spectator’s finger,
to, 42 1
Remove cord that is fast to a pencil
from the buttonhole, to, 42 3
Remove kinks, to, 29
Remove ring from a doubled cord, and
replace same, to, 422
Repair a “stranded” rope, to (1), (2),
< 3 >. 4 6 3
Return parbuckles, to, 329
Reversed Half Hitches, 14, 18, 303
Reversed Short Splice, 433
Reverse Hitches, 295
Reverse-laid rope, 23
Rib stitch, 561
Rib Stitch Ring Hitching, 570
Rider for a cable, 537
Riders, 541
Ridged Rinc Hitching, 571
Riding crop, 580
Riding turns, 541
Rigger, the, 68
Rigger’s Bend (Hunter’s Bend), 260, 261
Rigger’s Eye, 446
Rigger’s Eye Splice, 445
Rigger’s Four-Strand Eye, 446
Rigger’s hom, or grease horn, 19
Rigger’s knife, 19
Rigger’s Lanyard Knot, 115, 119, 120
Rigger’s Short Splice, 429
Rigger’s stopping, 542
Rigger’s Whipping, 546
Rigg* n g cleat, 286
Rigging stopper, iyt, 4 jj, 535
Rigging Stopper Eye, 455
Right-angle seizings, 541
Right- Ancle Side Splice, 468
Right-hand belaying pin turn, 285
Right-hand coil, 5 1 2
Right-Hand Half Knot, 220
Right-Hand Sheet Bend, 79
Right-laid rope, 17
Right Overhand Bend, 17
Ringbolt hitched harpoon mounting, 571
Ringbolt hitched toggle iron, 57 1
Ringbolt Hitches, 312
Ringbolt Hitching, 569, 570, 571
Rinc Hitch, ii, 14, 71, 270, 290, 307-12,
315, 332; Doubled, 31 i; tied with
one hand, 407
Ring Knot, 259
Ringling Brothers, 6
Ring or Bale Sling Hitch, 58
Ring or Tag Knot, Double, 205
Ring Splice. 469
Ring stoppers, 300
Roband Hitch, 13, 219, 226; for boat-
ing an anchor, 326
Robands, 226, 318, 550, 551
Robbins, Captain Albert, 420
Robbins, Robins (see Robands), 226,
318
Rocker cleat, 287
Rocket coil, 517
Rockwell, Charles B., 81
Roding, 537
Rolling Hitch, 14, 33, 82, 216, 223, 265,
292, 298, 304, 310, 314,411
Rollins, Philip Ashton, 43, 201
Rollo, YV. Keith, 55
Rondelle, Professor, 47
Roosevelt, Theodore, 43
Rope, 23
Rope bail for chest becket, 572
Ropebands, 226, 318, 550, 551
Ropem aker’s Eye, 451
Ropemaking, 23, 30, 70
Rope-strapped blocks, 521
Rope swivel, 128
[ 615 ]
INDEX
Rope Yarn Bend, 268
Rope Yarn Knots, 268, 437
Roping, 560
Roping stitches, 560
Rose Knot, 159, 160, 161, 162; Espar-
teiro’s Captain Albert Whitney’s,
167
Rose lashing (1), (2), 544
Rosenknop, 159
Rose seizing (1), (2), 544
Rosette Knot, 221, 386
Rough Pointing, 565
Round Eye, 454
Rounding, 540
Round seam (1), (2), 560
Round seizing (1), (2), 541, 542
Round Sinnets, 474, 475, 479, 481, 482,
483, 484, 493, 495, 498, 499, 503, 506,
507, 508
Round Splice, 46 1
Round thimble, 534
Round turn, 13, 541; hitched, 304; on
belaying pin, 285; on tree limb, 77
Round turn and Buntline Hitch, 309
Round turn and Eye, 445
Round turn and Half Hitch, 76, 309;
seized, 295
Round turn and Slipped Half Hitch,
3<>3
Round turn and Two Half Hitches,
Z 9 6 * 3 <> 3 * 3 ° 9 * 3 ! 4 » 3*6
Round Turn Bowline Knots, 186
Round turn lashing, 535
Round turn snaking, 5 1 8
Round turn stitch, 561
Round twist braid, 485
Rovings, 553
Rubber, 20
Rubber bands, 225, 269
Rugmaker, the, 69
Rungs, 591
Runner, 526
Runner and tackle, 529
Runner tackle, 529
Running Bowline Knot, 204, 337
Running Eye, 290, 294, 445
Running Knot, 1 1 ; Double, 205
Running Turk’s- Head, 228
Russian Escape Knot, 42 3
Sack, hung from an eye, 332; hung to
a hook, 332
Sack Knot, 62, 224
Safety belt, 73
Sail hook, 20, 22
Sailmaker, the, 69
Sailmaker’s bench, 20
Sailmakek’s Eye Splice, 450
Sailmaker’s knife, 20
Sailmaker’s Long Splice, 438, 439
Sailmaker’s One-Strand Splice, 463
Sailmaker’s “Quick” Splice, 439
Sailmaker’s Short Splice, 429, 430
Sailmaker’s Splice, 69, 425, 431
Sailmaker’s taper point, 565
Sailmaker’s Taper Splice, 431
Sailmaker’s tuck, 426
Sailmaker’s Whipping, 547
Sail needles, 20, 22
Sailor and his sweetheart, 93, 94
Sailor’s Backhanded Short Splice,
429, 430
Sailor’s Backhanded Long Splice, 438
Sailor’s Cross Knot, 387
Sailor’s Eye Splice, 445
Sailor’s Four-Strand Eye, 446
Sailor’s hammock, 588
Sailor’s knife, 1 9, 20
Sailor’s Knife Lanyard Knot, 141
Sailor’s needle work, 558
Sailor’s Short Splice, 427
Sailor’s splices, 426
Sailor’s stitch, 560
Sailor’s Whipping, 546
Sail tackle, 527
Sail twine, 22
Sallies, sallie tufting, sally tufts, 34, 553
Sallie tuckings, 553
Salmon Knot, 52
Sampan Hitch, 312
Sandbag anchor, 333
Sash Cord Eye, 457
Sash Cord Hitch, 39
Sash cord secured with Single Hitch,
284
Sash Weight Knot, 39
Satchel handle, 574
Scaffold Knot, 204
Scaffold lashing, 335, 342
Scissors, 2 1
Scotchmen, 558
Scout coil, 70
Scouts, Girl and Boy, 70
Scow a grapnel, to, 537
Scrape and taper Shroud Knots, to,
275
Screw eye and nail, 320
Scuttle butt lashing, 345
Sea chest beckets, 571, 572, 573
Sea chest lashing, 340
Sea gaskets, 513, 550
Seal harpoon coupling, 273
Seam rubber, 20
Seamstress, the, 70
Secure, to, a lanyard to a tool handle,
326; a pendant to a stay, 326; fish-
hooks, 52; the end of a thread, 558;
the end in a ball or hank, 30
Security of bends, 273, 274
Security of knots, 16, 17
Sedley, Sir Charles, 399
Seesaw Knot, 40 1
Seize, to, a wire eye, 542; whiplash to
whip stock, 545
Seized Clove Hitch, 82
Seized drawn work fringe, 584
Seized Half Hitch, 187, 303
Seized round turns, 304
Seized Shortening, 210
Seizing for double strapped block, 543
Seizing Hitch, 542
Seizing in reef points, 559
Seizing Knot, 542
Seizings, J41, 541, 543, J44, 545, 546
Seizing strands, 581
Seizing tucks, 544
Selvagee bail for chest becket, 572
Selvagee block strap eyes, 456
Selvagee handle, 574
Selvagee strap, 52 1
[ 616 ]
Selvagee strap and toggle, 31$
Selvagee Strap Eyes, 456
Selvage off a punch mat, to, 554
Semipermanent loop to a ring, 3 1 2
Send up sails in stops, to, 341
Send signal flags aloft, to, 332
Senna Knot, 69
Separate two interlocked Bowlines
without untying either, to, 42 3
Series of Figure-Eight Knots, 416
Series of Stevedore Knots, to tie, 416
Service and serving, 540
Serving boards, 540
Serving mallets, 5 1 1 , 540
Serving stick, 540
Set up a fore-and-aft stay, to, 529
Sewing palm, 2 2
Sew two cloths together, to, 560
Sew two mats together, to, 558
Shackled eyes, 273
Shackle mousing, 533
Shaft holdback, 322
Shakespeare, William, 101, 273
Shamrock Knot, 390
Shark and barracuda hooks, 53
Shear leg lashing, 342
Shear pole, 541
Sheath knife, 2 1
Sheepshank Knot, ii, 39, 59, 74, 210,
372, 389; and wounded rope, 210; as
a “parlor trick,” 2 1 1 ; Double Loops,
197; extra turns and hitches, 211;
from three hitches, 412; toggled,
210; with Handcuff Knot, 210, 211;
with Marlingspike Hitches, 210;
with Sword Knot, 211; with Tom
Fool’s Knot, 210
Sheet Bend, 9, 17, 18, 78, 222, 262; to tie
with short ends, 412
Sheet block and Tack Knot, 317
Sheet block pendant, 523
Sheet clips, 3 2 1
Sheet Knot, 47, 258
Shell Bar, 401
Shepshanke, 207
Sherman, Edward W., 58
Ship John Light, 6
Ship-Model Maker, the, 70
Ship-Model Maker’s Splice, 70, 436
Ship models, 5 1 2
Ship’s paper case, 575
Shiver and Eye, 271
Shiver Hitch, 272, 300; Doubled, 272
Shoe blocks, 524
Shoe cleat, 287
Shoe Clerk’s Knot, 2 2 1
Shoelaces, 331
Shoemaker, the (see Bootmaker), 35
Shoestring or Parcel Knot, 2 2 1
Shoestrings, 28
Shoestring watch guard, 582
“S” hook, 273, 320
Shooting, Camping, Hunting, etc., 70
Shopkeeper’s Loop, 336
“Short cuts,” avoiding, 26
Shorten a rope in center, to, 463
Short End Bend, 266, 327
Short Hawser Pointing, 562
Shorten slings, to, 315, 352
Short-laid rope, 24
INDEX
Short -line coil, 514
Short Long Splice, 461
Short Sling for cask, 349
Short Splice, to, 42 5-37 ; cable to
hawser, 431; left-laid to right-laid
rope, 431; two left-laid ropes, 431;
three-strand rope to four-strand
rope, 432
Short spliced block strap, 521
Shot net, 586
Shoulder a sword mat, to, 554
Shroud cap, 565
Shroud cleat, 286
Shroud Knot, 275-82; tools for tying,
277
Shroud Knot unequal ropes, to, 279
Shroud-laid rope, 23
Shroud Splice, 428
Side Splices, 464
Side- Wall Pole Hitches, 40
Side worming, 539
Silk cord, 20
Simple Bend, 262
Simple Clinch, seized, 543
Simple Hitch, 284
Simple Knot, i i, 84
Simple Noose, 204
Single Bend, 262
Single bitt, 288; with a Norman, 287
Single block, seized in Cut Splice, 525
Single Bowknot, 2 2 1
Single Bowline in the bight, 191, 192
Single burton, 527
Single Carrick Bend, 263
Single Cat’s-Paw, 3 1 5
Single Clinch, seized, 543
Single cord diagrams, 28
Single crossing turns, 543
Single Diamond Shroud Knot, 280
Single Genoese Bar, 401
Single Harness Loop, 54
Single Hitch, 14, 74, 283, 336; and
end stopped, 298; to boat halyards,
284; to boat thwart, 284; to knob,
328; to netting needle, 284; to post
top, 305; to stud, 284; to tennis net
winch, 321
Single Hitched Clove Hitch, 298
Single Knot, 84, 220
Single Loop in the bight, tied with
ends, 192
Single Loops tied in the bight, 190, 191
Single Pass Hitch, 276
Single reef points, 318, 551
Single Roband, 551
Single Shell Bend, 273
Single Shroud Knot, 276, 280
Single-Strand Ring Hitching, 570
Single tail block, 552
Single Tatted Bar, 401
Single Tatted Chain, 401
Single tuck, T wine Splice, 43 5
Single turn, 1 3
Single whip, 521
Sink a strand in splicing, to, 440
Sinkers, 56
Sinnet, Plat, 487-500; Solid, 501-10
Sinnet, Chain and Crown, 471-86
Sinnet Cringle, 467
Sinnet earings, 552
Sinnet Eyes, 458
Sinnet from Alston’s Eight-Strand
Crown, 480
Sinnet Knot, 135, 162; Manuel Perry’s,
136; Captain Charles W. Smith’s,
135, 145; Captain Albert Whitney’s,
.*35
Sinnet lines, 487
Sinnet Rope Splice, 434
Sinnet Shroud Knot, 279
Sinnet whipping, 548
Sister blocks, 524
Sister hooks, 320; moused, 533
Sister worming, 539
Six-strand cable, 497
Six-Strand French Sinnet, 490
Six-strand platted mat, 365
Six-strand rope, 2 3
Six-Strand Tiller Rope Eye, 447
Skater, the, 72
Skater’s chain grip, 273
Skeins, 5 1 2
Ski-boot lacing, 73
Skier, the, 73
Ski-pole strap, 73
Slack cord, to remove from a knot, 104
Slack-laid rope, 24
Slack-Line Bend, 266
Slack-Line Hitch, 298
Slashed cap, 128
Slath or Slarth Knot, 34
Sled lashing, 346
Sling, to, 354, 347; a coil of rope on
end, 350; a crate, 349; a gun or can-
non, 351; a hammock from lashed
oars, 589; a horse, 352; a jar or jug,
351; a ladder, 39, 349; a man, 352; a
marlingspike, 347; an earthenware
pipe, 351; an open cask or barrel, 74,
350; an open tub, 350; a plank on
edge, 39, 348; a plank flat, 348; a sail,
348; a spar on end, 348; a stone, 349;
a stone under a high gear, 346; a
tackle block, 342; ladders, 47; tanks
with toggles, 352; tools, 347; with
the end of a line, 349
Sling “dogs,” 352
Sling or strap toggle, 269
Slingstone Hitch, 48, 294
Slingstones, 57
Slip Knot, 14, 87; for a lizard, 308
Slip Noose, 14, 204
Slip Noose Hitch, 295
Slipped Buntline Hitch, 63, 295, 305
Slipped Half Hitch, 14, 32, 63, 290,
295, 308
Slipped Hitch to boat thwart, 326
Slipped Knots, 14
Slipped Loop, i 87
Slipped Picket-Line Hitch, 305
Slipped Reef Knot, 2 2 1
Slipped Sheet Bend, 262
Slipped turn on a cleat, 286
“Slippering Hitch,” 286
Slippery Hitch, 14, 19, 62, 283, 286; to
a cleat, 286; to boat halyards, 284; to
thumb cleat, 286
Slippery Pin Hitch, 286
Slip Tackle Knot, 41, 325
Slit leather plat, 486
[ 617 ]
Smallest Single-Strand Stopper, 92
Small stuff, 549
Small wire rope, to make, 70
Smeaton’s blocks, 532
Smith, Captain Charles W., 6, 122, 129,
135, 162, 277, 409, 427, 482, 496
Smith, Captain John, 297, 307
Smithsonian 38th Report , 420
Snakehead or Telescope Splice, 437
Snaking, Cow Hitch, 548; decorative
548; regular, 548; round turn, 548
Snaking down rigging, 518
Snap hooks, 270, 320, 520
Snapper, 46, 322
Snare, 77, 203-06, 419
Snatch block, 525
Snell, Snood, snooding, snead, sid, and
tippet, 5 1
Snotter, 456
Snowshoer, the, 73
Snubbing turns, 304
Snug Hitches, 291, 293
Soft-laid rope, 24
Solid Sinnet, 501-10; Pentagon, 510;
Pentalpha, 510
Solomon Bar, 401
Solomon Knot, 401
Southern Cross, 387
South Kensington Museum, 362
Span blocks, 523
Span hooks, 349
Spanish Bowline (Knot), 39, 47, 193.
197, 412 ; with parallel loops, 196
Spanish burton, 527
Spanish fox, 550
Spanish Hawser Bend, 264
Spanish Hitching, 563
Spanish reef, 333
Spanish windlass, 329
Span loop, 190
Span hooks, 349
Span Splice, 465
Spar Hitch, 21 i
Speakman, Dr. William C., 75
Special purposes, knots for, 323
Spenser, Edmund, 193
Spherical covering, 357
Spill a Reef Knot, to, 415
Spindle Eye, 457; for jib stay, 457
Spinnaker in stops, to make up a, 341
Spinning yarns, 2 3
Spit and truss a fowl, to, 41
Splayed or Forked Loops, 200
Splice, to, 461; chain to hemp cable,
435; strand to heart, 431; the maiiv
brace to, 461; two shrouds together,
432; wire rope with Manila tails, 445,
“Spool” Sinnets, 471
Sportsman* Magazine, 9
Spread-eagling a patient, 65
“Springs” for larks, 65
Spritsail Sheet Knot, 165, 166, 271
Spun yam, 550
Spyglass with Turk’ s-H rad, 580
Square Knot, 18, 75, 220, 258; capsized
into Reversed Half Hitches, 410,
design, 400; in the bight, 415
Square knotted lanyard by Captair.
Albert Whitney, 404
Square knotting, 399-404
Square lashing, 342
Square or right-angle lashing, 343
Square parcel lashing, 338
Squa resail clews, 465, 543
Square Shoestring Knot, 221
Square Sinnet, of eight strands, 493;
Captain Smith’s method, 497; of four
strands, 493
Square Sinnet point, 564
Stabber, 20
Staging lashing, 33J, 341
Stair treads, 362, 363
Stake anchors, 306
Stanchion, hitch to a, 3 3 2
Standing Bowline Knot, 1 86
Standing part of a rope, 1 3
Standing Turk VHead, 228-31
Star Knot, 130, 163, 164
Star Shroud Knot, 279
State -of -Maine side ladder, 592
Stationer’s Knot, 73, 222
Stays set up with blocks, 535
Steamboat Hitch, 302, 408
Steam gaskets, 493
Steel, David, 93
Steeplejack, 73-74
Steeplejack’s Hitch, 298
Steeplejack’s Safety Belt Hitch, 74
Steeple Slings, 73
Steering wheel in beckets, 3 1 6
Stetson, Edward M., 579
Stevedore Knot, 74, 86
Stick strands in splicing, to, 426, 446
Stinger, 46
Stirrups, 550
Stock, the, 385
Stone, Mrs. Frederic, 380
Stop or stopping, 341
Stopper Knot, Crowned, 159; (per
se), 117; Single-Strand, 83; Two-
Strand, 140
Stoppers and straps, 299
Stopping, 541, 542, 546; a large coil,
515; ordinary, 542; rope, 25; rope to
chain, 271
Storm trysails, 3 1 8
Strands, to add to a lanyard, 581; to
form, 23; to make lie fair, 426; to
open with fingers, 426; to open with
marlingspike, 426
Strangle Knot, 224, 546
Strap, 294, 315, 521, 522, 523, 524, 525,
538; Double Loop in, 194; for boat-
swain’s chair, 590; for hand lead,
318; for lashing, 521; for shear
tackle, 342; to telephone pole, 299;
to well pipe, 299; with Long Eye,
5*4
Strap a buoy, to, 538
Strap and Becket Hitch, 294
Strap Bend, 50, 269
Strap-bound block, 523
Strap I Iitch, 5 1 , 294, 3 1 1 , 312
Strap Knots, 269
Strap or Bale Sling Hitch, 58, 74; to
a mast, 299
Strap or Eskimo Loop, i 87
Strapping a three-shiv block, 524
Strap Ring Hitch, 3 1 2
INDEX
Strength, of knots, 16, 17; of Short
Splice, 428
String, to, a bow, 32; beads, 331; pearls,
61
String Tie, 384
Studding-Sail Bend, 289, 291
Studding-Sail Halyard Bend, i 3
Studding-Sail Halyard Strap, 294
Studding sails sent up in stops, 341
Studding-sail tack block, toggled to
boom, 3 1 7
Stunner Hitch, 314
Sunbeam , 6
Sunbeam's cutting tackle, 530
Surface trawl, 57
Surgeon, the, 75
Surgeon’s Knot, 221
Swab, grommet and ring handles, 566
Swab Hitch, 316
Swabs, heads hitched over, 566; over a
Mouse, 567; with lanyards, 566;
wooden Handles, 566
Swabs, mops, tassels, 566, 567, 568
Sweet Potato Splice, 43 1
Swift, Rodman, 467, 557
Swig blocks, 523
Swings and swinging, 76, 128, 590
Swing seat, notched, 76
Swivel, 278
Swivel Hitch, 57
Swivel hook, 320
Swivel-shaped lead, 56
Swordfish ouoy, 538
Swordfisherman’s iron or “gig,” 49
Sword Knot, 413
Sword mat, 488
Sword mat belt, 5 8 1
Sword mat hammock clew, 588
Symbols, 27
Taber, George H., 7, 221
Table for working Solid Sinnets, 502
Tack Knot, 156, 171
Tackle, for setting up shrouds, 5:8;
from Crescendo (1607), 530
Tackles and purchases, 526-32
“Tad” or “flatted” hooks, 52
Tag Knot or Ring Hitch, 14, 51, 31 i
Tail block, 299, 326
Tail block strap, 521
Tailor, the, 76
Tail Splices, 444
Tail tackle, 527
Take-Up Hitch, 40
Tape a window weight, to, 334
Taper, to, a round net, 586; a strand in
splicing, 428; a Sailm aker’s Splice,
430
Tapered Cable Short Splice, 433
Tapered shank hook, 53
Taper Splice, 431
Tassel, 402; based on a Shroud Knot,
567; for a window-shade pull, 577;
for shoestrings, 568; with metal ring,
566
Tassel Shroud Knot, 281
T atting Knot, 400
“T” chain hitching post, 3 1 8
Teamster’s Hitch, 312
Telescope Splice, 437
Temporary Bend, 265
Tennis ball bag, 587
Tennis net, 586
Tennis net tackle, 76
Tennis player, 76
Tension adjustment, 320
Terminal Knots, decorative, 390
T ETE d’ AloUETTE, 1 1
Tether ball, 76
Theodore Knot, 6, 43, 201, 413
Thief and bung, 92
Thief Knot, 221
Thieves’ cat, 82
Thimble, 534; oval, 43, 534; sailor’s, 22,
561; seized in by hand, 543; to bolt
rope, 559
Thimble and Eye, 205
Thimble and shiv in same plane in
tackle, 523
Thimble block strap, 521
Thimble Eye, 445
Thompson’s, Walter, Cable Stopper,
126
Thread, 23
Thread a loop, to, 413
Threefold Overhand Knot, 84
Three-Legged Hobble Knot, 77
Three-legged race, 77
Three-Petal Knot, 390
Three round turns, 296
Three-Strand Jib-Stay Eye, 448
Three -strand rope, 24
Three-Strand Side Splice, 468
Three-Thread Marline Splice, 437
Throat halyard and j ig tackle, 5 29
Throat seizing, 536, 541, 543; with
single crossing turns, 543
Thrumming, 553
Thrums, 553
Thumb and pinch cleat, 287
Thumb cleat as fair-leader, 287
Thumb Knot, 69, 70, 76, 81, 84, 224,
258
Thump mat, 377
Tie, to, a Figure-Eight Knot in the
bight, 422; a knot over a diagram,
28; up, 301; up Houdini, 41 1
Tiffany and Co., 61
Tighten knots, to, 28
Tiller rope, 23
Timberheads, 288
Timber Hitch, 38, 63, 77, 289, 290; and
Half Hitch, 38, 48, 298
Timber lashing, 346
Toggle, 34; and beckets for storm try-
sails, 318; and eye, 272, 317; and loop
belt fastening, 581; for signal flags,
3*7
1 oggle coverings, 359
Toggled bight, 312, 317
Toggled Bowline, 317
Toggled Sheet Bend, 272
Toggle to a Spliced Eye, to, 271
Tom Bowling, i i
Tom Fool’s Knot, 66, 206, 208, 371,
406; with Hitched Loops, 198
Tom Fool’s Sheepshank, 210
Tongue hook, 320
Tools, and technique of eye splicing,
449; and materials for knotting, 19,
[ 618 ]
INDEX
20, n, 22; rigger’s, 19, 20; sail-
maker’s, 20, 2i, 22; sailor’s, 20. 21, 22
Top burton, 527
Topgallant halyard purchase, 527
Topsail Halyard Bend, 13, 82, 289, 291
Topsail halyard block strap, 523
Tourniquet, 225
Tow, to, a boat alongside, 332; a rope
overboard, 25
T ow rope to automobile or truck, 3 3
Tradesmen’s Knots, 31-82
Transmission ( Long Splice ), 440
Transom Knot, 62, 215, 225, 541
Transom lashing, 342
Trapper, the, 77
Treasure net, 586
Tree Surgeon, 77
Tree Surgeon’s Knot, 298
Triangular Sinnet, 500
Trick knots tied in lariat, 407
Trick methods of tying Clove Hitch,
408
Tricks and puzzles, 405-24
Trim strands of knots, to, 25
Triple Sheet Bend, 265
Tripod lashing, 34^
Tripp, Dr. Curtis C., 75
Trot, a, 57
Truck lashing, 344
Truck of lignum vitae, 534
True Knot, 220
True Love Knot, 383
True-Lovers’ Knot, 145, 189, 209, 259,
372, 380, 383, 386, 387, 388; in gold
wire, 388
Trumpet cord, 472, 485
Trysail beckets, 520
Tuck, to, a long strand, 26; a Short
Splice, 428; strands, 426
Tucked Bend, ;68
TurKFn Cf/nro Hitch. _asi _
— - — - - * m M
Tucked Cut Splice, 466
Tucked Eye, 453
Tucked Marline Bend, 437
Tucked Sheet Bend, 262
Tuft a quilt, to, 68
Tuft Knot, 77
Tug-of-War Knot, 41 1
Tump or tote a bear, to, 72
Tump or tote line or rope, 66
Turkish Knot, 69
Turk’s-Head, 219, 227-56; of eight
bights, 378; on an early powder
horn, 377; practical suggestions for
working, 254, 255, 256; Running,
228; Standing, 228-31
Turk’s-Head Button Knots, 102, 104,
105, 607, 608
Turk’s-Head Lanyard Knot, ioo
Turk’s-Head shroud cap, 565
Turk’s-Head Stopper Knots, 90
Turle’s Knot, Major, 51
Turn, to, edges in French Sinnet, 489;
in a cable, 288; over a stone, 349
Turned rung, toi
T urtle or Turl Knot, 51
“Tween ie” block covering, 356
“Tweenie” Single-Strand Stopper
Knot, 86
Tweezers, 22
Twirling Half Hitches, 409
Twist or turn, to, a pipe or post, 329;
strands with marlingspike, 42 5
Twist braid, 485, 486; as a Button
Knot, 105
Twist Braid Knots, 95
Twisted Bar, 401
T wisters, 66
Two bends, 265
Two Bowlines, 265
Two-Cord Diamond Knot, 397
Two Eyes Toggled, 272
Two-Faced Crown of two strands,
i47
Two Half Hitches, 14, 18, 32, 58, 68,
72* 73* 74* 7^» 77* 295* 3<>3; seized, 303
Two-plane Knots, to make a working
diagram for, 152, 153
Two round turns and Two Half
Hitches, 292, 296, 309
Two round turns seized, 298
“Two Sailors Out on the Yardarm,”
424
Two Single Hitches, 38
T wo slings bent together, 349
Two-Strand Backhanded Splice, 435
Two-Strand Crown, 220
Two-Strand Four-Bight Button, 179
Two-Strand Manrope Knot, 179, 182
Two-Strand Matthew Walker, 327
Two-Strand Plat, 488
Two-Strand Ring Bolt Hitching, 569
Two-Strand Short Splice, 435
Two-Strand Shroud Knot, 282
Two-Strand Splice, 453
Typical ditty bag lanyard, 577
U-bolt shackles for wire guys, 460
Umbrella strap, 574
Uncoil rope, to, 29
Underhand __Round_ Turn Grafting,
5^3
Underhand Round Turn Hitching,
557
Underhand Round Turn Pointing,
56 2
Unrecognizable Knot, 416
Untangle snarls, to, 29
Untie, to, a Bowline in the bight, 417;
a Clove Hitch, 415; series of Over-
hand Knots, 416
Untrustworthy bend, 258
Upholsterer, the, 77
Upper seizing, 541
Venetian-blind fastening, 321
Viking deadeyes, 535
Wagon and sled stakes, 346
Wagon stake lashing, 344
Wale Knot, i 56
Wall, Crown and Diamond, 130
Wall and Crown, ii, 117, 125;
Doubled, 1 1 7
Wall Knot, ii, 44, 116, 130, 542; Dou-
ble Two-Strand, 140
Wall Sinnet, 484
Walnut Knot, Crowned, 155
Walton, Isaac, 52
Ward, Ned, tide page, 203, 353
W arped strap, 5 2 1
[ 619 ]
Watch chain toggle, 3 1 8
Watch guards, 582
Watch tackle, 527
Water Knot, 50, 56, 259
Waterman’s Knot, ii, 259
Water whip, 528
Waved Bar or Bars, 401
Weakness of knots, 17
Weaver’s Knot, 9, 78, 79, 80, 61, 259
Wedding Knot, 271
Wedges for fishing spars, 343
Well digger, the, 82
Well Pipe Hitch, 82
West Country Whipping, 548
Wet canvases, to lash, 32
Wetjen, Albert R., 1 14, 323
Wet rope and knots, 24
Wet Weather Hitch, 40, 304
Whaleboat gripes, 535
Whaleboat stays, 535
Whale Knot, 156
Whaleman, the, 82
Whaleman's coil, 5 1 6
Whaleman’s Eye Splice, 445
Whall, Captain W. B., 1 1
Whatnot, 221, 258, 415
Whiffletree clip, 322
Whip, 51
Whip, to, fishhooks, 53; strands, 25
Whiplash, 46
Whiplash tongue, to seize, 544
Whipper, the, 82
Whipping, 546, 547, 548
“Whip such,” 231
Whip upon whip, 527
Whirling ring, 414
Whistle Lanyard Knot, 141
Whisde or knife lanyards, 578
White rope, 24
Whitney, Captain Albert, 135, 404
Whitney, Richard S., 50
Wide Basket Weave Knot, 365
Wide Standing Turk’s-Head, 228
Wide Turk’s-Head, 32; to enlarge
235*237,238
Wild goose, 396
Wind, to, cord, 29; kite strings, 62,
tackle, 526, 531, 532
Window-shade pull, 578
Window-shade pulley, 321
Windsor Tie, 384
Wire Cargo Sungs, 352
Wire Eye, for single-strand rope, 46**
“over one and under one,” 459
Wire Eye Splices, 536
Wire grommet for a heavy lead, 3 1 8
Wire splicing, 443
Wire Thimble Eye, 459
Wire to screw eye, 61
Wire whipping, 548
“With the lay” 157
Wooden clip for whiffletree, 322
Wooden cone used in pointing, 564
Wooden cylinders for Turkb-Heads
21
Wooden hanks, 520
“Work” knots, to, 18, 28
Wormed becket, 573
Worming, 539
Woven mat, 488
INDEX
Wrap Hitch, 40
Wrought mat, 488, 554
<< X” seizings, 541, 584
Y achtsman, the, 82
Yardarm Knot, 209
Yard tackle, 527
Yard Hitches, i 3
Yam, 23
Yarn Splice, 268
Yoke rope, of cotton, 565; square
knotted, 404
Young, Laurie, 73
Zigzag Bars, 402
Zigzag Knot, 2 1 7
Zigzag Lanyard Knot, i 34
Zigzag Ring Hitching, 569
T *Sro j
.i ttwm
Old sailors’ knot work. Cat-o’-Nine-Tails #3719, #509. Sheath knives #3545. Two seam
rubbers. Chest beckets, p. 573. Pegging awl #3523. Needle cases $3544. Policeman’s night
stick $3717. Three blackjacks or life preservers, p. 580
am
-m
Clothesbag and ditty bag lanyards
#3698, #3697, #3694, #3696, $3695
Butterfly Knot #2458. Monkey’s
Fist #2220. Matthew Walker Knot
#731. Turk’s-Head #1385
Turk’s-Head #1364
Multi-Strand Buttons of Chapter io. Arranged in sequence from bottom to top and
from left to right, Nos. 909-1008. #980 is missing
Multi-Strand Buttons, left to
right, top to bottom, #898, #897,
#896, #900, #899
Sailor's square knotting, pp. 403,
4°4
*
Knots and sinnets, mostly original. Lanyard Knots from Chapters 4, 7, 8. Sinnets from Chapter 39.
Knots $789, #980, #1381, #1382, #1590, #3590, #2217, #2275
1
t
Bag lanyards #3691, #3689, #3692. Yoke rope $2523
Manrope #3758. Two Chinese priest cords, p. 381
1
Blocks, deadeyes, bull’s-eyes, hearts, thimbles, etc., pp. 284-87, 521-25, 534, 544
Sailors’, sailmakers’, and riggers’ tools, pp. 19, 20, 21, 22, and 51 1
THE ASHLEY
BOOK OF
KNOTS
Clifford W
Ashley
Every practical knot
What it looks like
Who uses it
Where it conies from
and how to tie it
With 7,000 drawings
representing over 3,800 knots
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF
By
CLIFFORD W. ASHLEY
Author o/The Yankee Whaler
With amendments
by Geoffrey Budworth , International Guild of Knot Tyers
“He’ll allow his superiors on board to be tolerably good
Navigators etc! But Alas! they want the Main Point; for
shew me the Gentleman cries he , that can knot or
splice?”— Ned Ward in “The Wooden World”
Faber and Faber Limited
London • Boston
Note on the Corrected Edition
Clifford Warren Ashley died just three years after the publication in 1944 of The Ashley Book
of Knots. He did not live to see it become the bible of dedicated knot tyers, with a worldwide
general readership.
So it has been the keen users of this monumental book who have over the years reported
errors, inconsistencies, and omissions in the text and drawings, which Ashley would in time no
doubt have spotted and corrected himself.
“A knot ... is either exactly right or it is hopelessly wrong,” he wrote. “Make only one change
. . . and either an entirely different knot is made or no knot at all may result.”
•*
This “corrected” edition has been prepared by members of The International Guild of Knot
Tyers.
Geoffrey Budworth
Tonbridge, Kent
England
ff
fader and faber
LONDON BOSTON
First published in 1944
by Doubleday, Doran and Co., Inc, New York
Published in Great Britain 1947
by Faber and Faber Limited
3 Queen Square London WON 3AU
Reprinted 12 times
Reprinted with amendments
by Geoffrey Budworth 1993
Printed and bound in the
United States of America
All rights reserved
ISBN O 571 09659-X
Amendments copyright © Geoffrey Budworth, 1993
Copyright © Doubleday & Company, Inc. ig6o
Copyright © Clifford W. Ashley, 1Q44
6 8 10 9 7 5
To my wife,
Sarah Rodman Ashley,
who has lived with this book for eleven years
without losing her patience, her good humor , ;
or her faith in its culmination.
CONTENTS
CHAPTER
1. On Knots
2. Occupational Knots
2. Knob Knots. Single-Strand Stopper or Terminal Knots
Single-Strand Lanyard Knots
Single-Strand Button Knots
Multi-Strand Stopper or Terminal Knots
Multi-Strand Lanyard Knots . ..
Two-Strand Lanyard Knots ....
Multi-Strand Buttons, Tied in Hand
Multi-Strand Buttons, Tied on the Table
i i . Single-Loop Knots
12. Double- and Multiple-Loop Knots
13. The Noose
14. Knots Tied in the Bight
15. Clove Hitch and Other Crossing Knots ....
1 6. Binding Knots
17. The Turk’s-Head
18. Bends
19. Shroud Knots (Multi-Strand Bends)
20. Belaying and Making Fast
21. Hitches to Spar and Rail (Right- Angle Pull)
22. Hitches to Masts, Rigging, and Cable (Lengthwise Pull)
23. Hitches to Stake and Post, Pile and Bollard
24. Ring Hitches
25. Hooks, Beckets, and Toggles
26. Miscellaneous Holdfasts
4
u
u
5
u
u
6 .
u
a
7
u
a
8 .
u
ii
9
a
u
IO.
<<
PAGE
I
3 1
83
93
101
"5
I2 9
1 39
155
165
185
193
203
207
2I 3
2 r 9
22 7
2 57
2 75
283
289
2 97
3°i
3°7
3 r 3
3 J 9
CONTENTS
CHAPTER PACE
27. Occasional Knots 323
28. Lashings and Slings 335
29. The Monkey’s Fist and Other Knot Coverings . 353
30. Flat or Two-Dimensional Knots 361
31. Fancy Knots 383
32. Square Knotting 399
33. Tricks and Puzzles 405
34. Long and Short Splices (Multi-Strand Rends) . . .425
35. Eye Splices (Multi-Strand Loops) 445
36. Odd Splices 4^'
37. Chain and Crown Sinn ets 471
38. Plat Sinnets 487
39. Solid Sinnets 501
40. Practical Marlingspike Seamanship 511
41. Decorative Marlingspike Seamanship (Applied Knots) 549
Bibliography 593
Glossary 597
Index 607
ILLUSTRATIONS
Eight Pages ok Halftones Following page 20
[ viii ]
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
They are too many, the sailors from whom I learned to tie knots, for me
ever to accord them the credit that is their due. Many there were whose
names I have forgotten, many more whose names I never even knew. For at
the time our courses crossed nothing was further from my mind than writing
a book of knots. My interest then was solely in tying, and it was a long while
before I even started to keep a record.
Here and there in the pages to follow I shall have occasion to speak of some-
one in connection with a certain knot or splice, and if no name is mentioned,
be assured that the ungrudging assistance that was given me is still fresh in my
mind, and that the omission is due to a fault of memory and not of good will.
To the following friends I am indebted for assistance in the preparation of
this book:
To Captain Daniel F. Mullins, who went to sea in the same year that I com-
menced the study of art. Coupled with a natural aptitude and curiosity for
knots he has an amazingly retentive memory, and the assistance that he has
given me, particularly with the splices, has been of incalculable service.
To Dr. Richard Knowles, who, while Headmaster of the William Penn
Charter School, suggested that experience in teaching would aid me in writing
a book of instruction. He arranged a series of lectures and classes in knots in
several private schools near Philadelphia, and the experience that I acquired
has been of great assistance to me in this work.
To Charles B. Rockwell, with whom I have often sailed and raced, and at
whose instigation I made a Weaver's Knot that is now used in mohair
manufacture.
To Mr. Frederic A. Delano, who first became interested in my knot work
at the time I was experimenting with Solid Sinnets and who has followed the
progress of this volume from its inception. He has read chapters from my
manuscript and has made suggestions that have proved invaluable.
To Mrs. Frederick H. Brooke, onetime National President of the Girl
Scouts, who, among other suggestions, proposed that the material should be
arranged so that each chapter would be complete in itself and could be pub-
lished separately in form suitable for the use of boy and girl scouts.
To Eugene E. du Pont, who for many years has patiently tolerated my pre-
occupation with knots and who, under protest, made the Twenty-Four-
Strand, Twenty-One-Part Matthew Walker Knot that is reproduced
among the frontispieces. It was made, without previous experience, from my
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
typed instructions and is probably the largest Matthew Walker Knot that
has ever been tied.
To Rodman Swift, who sailed before the mast to China one June morning
just after his graduation from Harvard University, thereby gaining an A.B.
degree twice in the same year; a record not equaled even by Richard H. Dana,
Jr., of Two Years Before the Mast fame. In recent years he and I have tied
many knots together and the discussions that ensued have helped to settle
many a debated point.
One institution I wish to thank in particular, The Mariners’ Museum, of
Newport News, Virginia, and also its President, Mr. Homer L. Ferguson,
whose interest in the mariner and the sea has included knots, and whose en-
couragement of my research and writing has been one of the largest con-
tributing factors to the completion of my task. While this work has been in
preparation the museum has rendered material assistance by purchasing a
number of my marine paintings.
Many of the illustrations have been drawn from old sailors’ knot work
that forms a part of the museum’s permanent exhibit.
THE ASHLEY BOOK OF
KM) TS
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